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The Spirit of the Southern Wind

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The Spirit of the Southern Wind El Espíritu del Viento del Sur The Spirit of the Southern Wind Estrecho de Magallanes, Canal Beagle & Cabo de Hornos Fotografías: Luis Bertea Rojas Textos: Denis Chevallay BOOK SERIES THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN EXPLORATION CRUISE TO THE REMOTE REGIONS OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO AND STRAIT OF MAGELLAN EXCLUSIVE PHOTO EXPEDITION AND NATURE CRUISE A BOARD THE M/V FORREST [email protected] EXPEDITION CRUISE PHOTOGRAPHY, CIENce & EDUCATION www.patagoniaphotosafaris.com The Spirit of the Southern Wind El Espíritu del Viento del Sur Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel & Cape Horn Photographs by Luis Bertea Rojas - Text by Denis Chevallay Glaciar en Seno Ballena-Isla Santa Ines Glacier on Whalesound-Santa Ines island Fuerte, bravío, impredecible e inclemente. Así es "El espíritu del viento del sur". Un viento que por siglos ha puesto a prueba a innumerables aventureros. Quienes fueron capaces de enfrentarlo, pudieron conocer parte de los misterios que aun encierra este hermoso rincón del planeta. La mayoría de los que embarcaron desde tierras lejanas no lo consiguieron, sin embargo, los vencedores tuvieron la oportunidad de dar a conocer al resto del mundo la belleza inhóspita de estos parajes y el coraje de los habitantes del llamado "fin del Mundo". Strong, fierce, unpredictable and inclement. These are just some words to describe “the spirit of the southern wind”. For centuries this wind has put innumerable adventurers to the test and only those capable of confronting the wind were able to learn a little about the mysteries that are still hidden in this beautiful corner of the planet. The majority of those explorers who set off from distant lands were unsuccessful in their attempts. However those who succeeded were able to tell the rest of the world about the inhospitable beauty of these places and the courage of the inhabitants who lived at the so-called “end of the world.” Amanecer en canal Murray Sunrise in the Murray Narrows The Spirit of the Southern Wind Editor / Publisher - Luis Bertea Textos historia / History text - Denis Chevallay Fotografías / Photographs -Luis Bertea Diseño / Design - Nancy Luna BOOK SERIES THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN Corrección Textos / Text correction - Andrea Espinoza Traducción / Translation - Sara Anderson Impresión / Printed by - Imprenta Maval Editorial Patagonia Interactiva Chiloé 1667 Punta Arenas, Chile - Fono / Phone 56-61 226653 www.patagoniainteractiva.com - [email protected] Primera Edición bilingue, Español - Inglés de 3000 ejemplares Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile, Noviembre de 2008 First bilingual edition, Spanish - English, 3000 copies Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile, November 2008 ISBN 978-956-7820-09-2 Inscripción Nº / Registration Nº 173.243 Dedico este libro a "las mujeres de mi vida"; © 2008 Luis Bertea Rojas mi esposa y musa, Vivian, mis hijas Damisa, Tabata y Conty y a mis nietas Anahi y Amelia. Derechos reservados de los textos y fotografías All rights reserved for text and photographs This book is dedicated to the women in my Prohibida su Total o Parcial Reproducción life; my wife Vivian, my daughters Damisa, Tabata and Conty and my grand-daughters Partial or Total Reproduction is Prohibited Anahi and Amelia. Prólogo/ Prologue ................................... Cronología/ Chronology ................................... 8 12 La ruta del estrecho de Magallanes/ The Strait of Magellan 18 Introducción geográfica/ Geographical introduction .................................... Los primeros habitantes/ The first inhabitants .................................... 20 Indi ce Magallanes/ Magellan .................................... 21 Los seguidores de Magallanes/ After Magellan .................................... 22 La tragedia de Sarmiento de Gamboa/ The tragedy of Sarmiento de Gamboa .................................... 28 Corsarios ingleses y mercaderes holandeses/ English pirates and Dutch merchants .................................... 32 Siglo XIX/ The 19th century .................................... 34 La colonización del Estrecho/ Colonization of the Strait .................................... 37 Los faros del estrecho de Magallanes/ The lighthouses of the Strait of Magellan 38 44 La ruta de los canales de Tierra del Fuego/ The channels route of Tierra del Fuego 58 Introducción geográfica/ Geographical introduction .................................... Los primeros habitantes/ The first inhabitants .................................... 60 La paulatina exploración/ Tentative explorations .................................... 62 La obra de Parker King y Fitz Roy/ The surveys of Parker King and FitzRoy .................................... 66 Despues de los ingleses/ After the English .................................... 68 Los misioneros/ Missionaries .................................... 70 La colonización/ Colonization .................................... 74 76 La ruta del Cabo de Hornos/ The Cape Horn Route 90 Introducción geográfica/ Geographical introduction .................................... Los primeros habitantes/ The first inhabitants .................................... 92 El descubrimiento/ Discovery .................................... 94 Exploradores y viajeros/ Explorers and travelers .................................... 94 La época de los clípperes/ The age of the clippers .................................... 96 Los Caphorniers/ The Cape Horners .................................... 101 El cabo de Hornos hoy/ Cape Horn today .................................... 104 106 Prólogo os magallánicos estamos convencidos de que nuestro territorio falta una obra especializada que tuviera esa orientación diferente y –tierras, mares, cielos- conforma una expresión singular en la lograrlo tan bien es un valuable acierto. inmensidadL del globo por su geografía bravía, su esplendor natural y por su historia. Razones nos sobran para ello: desde hace casi cinco El libro ha sido hecho directamente para el uso turístico, que ahí siglos se acumulan las descripciones de descubridores, exploradores, además su carácter bilingüe, y no nos cabe duda de que será de gran viajeros y estudiosos que de variada manera y distinto énfasis dan utilidad como guía ilustrativa e informativa de viajeros, tanto en un cuenta de los sentimientos que en ellos provocó el enfrentamiento recorrido real como imaginario. con un mundo natural mezcla del caos primigenio y de la pristinidad original de la Creación; de sus expresiones ambientales y sus formas Enfrentarse con la naturaleza bravía del centro-oeste de la Patagonia vitales y de la fuerza impresionante de sus paisajes. De éstos, en Austral, del occidente y sur de la Tierra del Fuego, con la suficiente particular, la técnica fotográfica desde un siglo y cuarto hasta hoy información sin duda que contribuirá al mejor disfrute de cuantos hizo posible captar sus particularidades y su belleza o grandiosidad intenten la siempre gratificante aventura del conocimiento y difundirlos por lo ancho del mundo. Acerca de lo que ha sido su geográfico, en particular cuando el mismo se refiere a uno de los acontecer humano desde doce milenios atrás hasta nuestros días, se territorios extremos del planeta. han encargado de investigar y dar a conocer algunos historiadores poniendo de relieve el pionerismo caracterizador de la presencia Mateo Martinic B. - Premio Nacional de Historia, año 2000 humana a lo largo del tiempo, porque vivir en el meridión ha tenido mucho de desafío. De todo esto informa el contenido de la obra que el lector tiene entre sus manos, a través de un texto sencillo, veraz y ameno y de imágenes espléndidas que trasuntan la fuerza de la naturaleza. En una asociación feliz y fecunda Luis Bertea en las fotografías y Denis Chevallay en la relación geográfico-histórica, con la colaboración de Andrea Espinoza en la forma literaria y de Nancy Luna en el diseño, han realizado un trabajo bibliográfico muy bien logrado atendidos los fines que lo han motivado y esplendido en su presentación. No menos laudable es su decisión de hacer de las secciones centro- occidental del estrecho de Magallanes, de los canales fueguinos y del Mapa holandes del estrecho de Magallanes islario del Cabo de Hornos los ejes geográficos conductores de un Hendrik Hondius 1633 recorrido ciertamente singular, grato para la vista y el espíritu. Hacia Dutch map of Strait of Magellan Hendrik Hondius 1633 Prologue he people of Magallanes are convinced that our territory- the land, has been a need for a specialized work such as this which has a different seas and skies- is unique in the immensity of the globe for its wild orientation and accomplishing it so well is a real success. geography,T the natural splendour and for its history. We have countless reasons for this belief as we have been accumulating descriptions over This book has been published for tourists, hence its bilingual nature, more than five centuries from discoverers, explorers, travellers and men and there is no doubt that it will be very useful as an illustrative and of learning. In their varied ways and with their different emphases they informative guide for those travellers who are on an actual trip to these produced accounts of the feelings that were provoked in them by the areas as well as those on a purely imaginary one. confrontation with a natural world that is a mix of the primordial chaos and the original pristine nature of Creation. These accounts are records To be able to confront the wildness of the mid-western part of Southern of the environmental expressions, the vital forms and the impressive force
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