The Mountaineer

1983-1990 From The Mountaineer Annual,1917 � 1J\ � i GU{-� �WJ a,,ij·(/1l7ti;:uza...

a..,.plit �� � . - �/VJ 1 �It..! I n,.a.t�q, fA..J.. b..ra Ddl,l\.d -lo � ��­ � �,f VJ ,J/�t�P.J- if. dJK.>() � Su.ca.,.J,;" • fmu.4 - � f-cAw iiJ., it-.: 'r thft� , tllvtll c,.;r-,-... /IJf.i... a,, "iIA,f.Q _,_..,.. • The Mountaineer 1983-1990

Published August, 1991 2 TheMountaineer

The Mountaineer

Intrue Mountaineers' tradition, the text, photographs and productionof this bookhas beendone entirelyby volunteers. And soa specialthank you goesto all who gaveof theirtalent, time and inspiration increating, after a sevenyear hiatus, this newestedition of The MountaineerAnnual. EditorialCommittee Judi Maxwell-Editor,Production Manager, layout Ann Marshall-Word Processing,Advertising, layout MarciaHanson-Word Processing, Advertising, Table Transcriptions FrankSincock-Advertising Manager Karen Sykes-Word Processing BobBums---Committee Ken Lans-DesktopPublishing Marge Mueller-ProductionConsultant (Mountaineers Books)

Cover Design: Judi Maxwell and Ann Marshall Cover Photographs: Front-Climbingnear Mt. Constance, © Marie Mills/David Cummings Back-ThunderCreek, North Cascades, © Dennis O'Callaghan

Thank you alsoto thefollowing Mountaineerstaff members:Virginia Felton,Executive Director; Ann Halinger; Eileen Allen; BobPodrat; and DonnaDeShazo and Art Freeman of MountaineersBooks.

Copyright© 1991by The Mountaineers 300Third Avenue West Seattle,Washington 98119

Printedon recycledpaper The Mountaineers Purposes To explore and study the mountains, forests and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of NorthwestAmerica; To make expeditionsinto these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life.

SusanViles-Muzzy 4 TheMountaineer

Image Lake CarlSkoog CONTENTS The Mountaineers Purposes ...... 3 Forward...... 8 Dianne Hoff Mt. Everest Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb 1990 ...... 11 Jim Whittaker The Changing Role of the Trail User ...... 16 Ruth Ittner "Conquistadors of the Useless" (Winter Ascents of Mt. Constance) ...... 24 Rex Andrew Photographing the Ancient Forest ...... 29 John Warth High Skiing: A Decade of Exploration in the Cascades and Olympics ...... 32 Lowell Skoog Washington's Highest Mountains and Steepest Faces ...... 40 Stephen Fry The Bailey Range Traverse ...... 54 Bob Burns Adventures in the Far North...... 59 Dennis Larsen Contrasts: Brooks Range to the Dolomites ...... 65 Bev Dahlin and Steve Johnson The Rise and Rise of the Bellingham Mountaineers .... 67 Ken Wilcox The Peshastin Pinnacles: Washington's New Climbing Park ...... 70 Marcia Hanson Maps for Hiker's and Climbers in the 1990's ...... 74 Stewart Wright Climbing Notes ...... 84 John Roper 6 TheMountaineer Mountaineer Outings: 1984-1990 ...... 88 Bill Zauche Thel\oountaineers ConservationDivision: 1984-1990 ...... 90 Norm Winn President's Reports ...... 92 Del Fadden 1984-85 Bill Maxwell 1986-87 Carstein Lien 1988-89 Club Leadership: 1984-1990 ...... 96 Officers Board of Trustees Branch Officers Committee Chairpersons Branch Reports...... 104 Bellingham - Sam Houston Everett - Linda Nyman Tacoma - Jeff Johnson Olympia - Jim Patrick The Mountaineer Lodges ...... 11 O Margaret Weiland Committee Reports...... 112 · Cyclists - Jean Henderson Nordic Ski - Craig Miller Sailing - Marv Walter First Aid - Sharon Ellard Players - Phillip and Alison Giesy Sea Kayaking - Norm Kosky Snowshoe - Karen Sykes Administration/Financial Report...... 120 Virginia Felton, Executive Director The Mountaineers ServiceAward Recipients ...... 122 Club Presidents ...... 123 Honoraryand Life Members ...... 123 The Mountaineers Foundation: What it is, What it does and How you can help ...... 124 In Memoriam ...... 129 The Mountaineers Good Night Song ...... 135 The Mountaineer 8 TheMountaineer Foreward

To All Mountaineers: It gives me a great deal of pleasure to introduce this issue of The Mountaineer,our annual report,published for the first timesince 1983. The annual has become an important document and an old tradition over the years. It meetsone of our stated purposes,to "gather into permanent form the history and tradition� [of outdoor recreation] of the region." It also allows us to record the pleasure and satisfaction we derive from our membership in the Mountaineersand recreatethat pleasure forothers. We believe that the club is stronger when we communicate well, and commu­ nicate often, to our members. We are happy to restore this tradition. In 1984we had a decision to make. No one stepped forward to accept responsibility for publishl:ig the annual. At the same time we were strapped for funds. In a volunteerorganization such as ours, we support those activitiesthat are most desired and neededby our members. Many serviceswere dropped that year. The annual was one. The "gathering into permanent form" fell to our monthly magazine. I've seena number of changesin the Club in recent years. When I joined the Board in 1986, we were looking at a financial crisis of monumental proportion. I liken it to slipping toward the edge of a crevasse withno rescue in sight. Although many like to point to our new building as the cause,we soon learnedthat the problems we were facingwere much older, larger and more invasive. The problem wasourunwillingness toacceptour fiscal responsibility to insure adequate dues income, and our inability I unwillingness to make tough financial decisions. With Bill Maxwell's leadership we dug in, stopped our slide, and turned ourselves around. Then in Carsten Lein's term, he tookon the tough assignment of changing policy, by-laws and organizational structure. My job has beento insure that the club is stronger under thesechanges, that we follow through with them, assuring that the form they take is accepted by the membership, and that they meet the spirit of our purposes and mission. In any organization, change is difficult. By insuring that people have the opportunity to commu­ nicate, that their complaintsare dealtwith fairly,andthat the change seems fair to the majority, we build a strong team feeling. We have achieved success in this effort becausewe have established a strong traditionof strategic planning in the last seven years. Eachyear the top leaders in the club meet to review The MountaineersMission and our priorities. Each year we strip our plan down to the basics and froma zero base, we plan for at least five years ahead. We follow up with a clear action plan and schedulefor meeting our goals. As any good Mountaineerknows, you need a plan to know where you're going, and to know when you get there. This planning tradition, careful oversight and thorough reporting systems are making the difference for us. Just a few years ago, we regularly Foreward 9 heard the lament '1t's just not fun anymore." We felt lost. Now we're found, we know where we're going, and we're having fun again. Meanwhile, we are looking at a number of other successes and chal­ lenges. The most demanding issue right now is that of the ski lodge properties. Snoqualmie Lodge in particular has seen less Mountaineer , support and more financial demands,despite herculean effortsby itslodge committee.The propertiesdivision has beenstruggling for years to main­ taina balanced budget. The Boardis developing a plan to achieve this in an acceptable time frame. MountaineersBooks has achieved a great deal of success in recent years. Under strong management, they continue to publish booksthat meetour purposesand our member needs,making our name and our mission known worldwide. Wild Rivers, is a significant achievement. It willbe used to promote and protectour naturalwaterways. RecentlyBooks relocated to alarger, more comfortable home. The Mountaineershas passed the 12,000 membermark. As our mem­ bership grows, we need more activities, and more leaders. We must provide better guidelines and clearer expectations for leaders and trip members.We want to support them with better training and recognition for their efforts on behalf of the Club. As our Northwest community grows, we recognizea greater need to protectourenvironment. Onewaywearedoingthisisemphasizinga team approach between the activities and conservation divisions. Through teamwork,we attain greater recognitionof the needfor conservationand protectionof the Northwest's natural beauty. Ancient forest hikes,rallies, PeshastinPinnaclesandourparticipationincommunityissuesaremaking the Mountaineers known and acknowledged as a viable force in the region's conservationarena. The Seattleclubhouse is healthier every year. Rentalsand cateringare continuing to grow more successful and in addition, thedeli success grows stronger. OurExecutive Director's strong building management skills in conjunction with clear fiscal reporting and careful Board oversight are responsible for this. In our planning process this year we acknowledgedthat reaching out to the rest of thecommunity is important.We have establisheda speaker's bureau. Our outreachaction team is working hard to share the mission of The Mountaineers with a broader community. 1banksto our planningand the Missionand Purposes that are still strong, viableand vigorous,we arean 85-year-old organization that is in itsprime. Restoring The Mountaineer became an articulated goal in our 1989 strategic plan. lam glad that Judi Maxwell adopted the project,pleased that it has receivedthe support of so many members, and proud that we have finally produced this after solong a wait. -DianneHoff President,1990-91 10 TheMountaineer

Mt. Everest Donna P. Price Mt. EverestFmth Day 20 11 Ml EverestEarth Day 20 InternationalPeace Climb 1990

Jim Whittaker

"Whateveryou can do or dreamyou can,begin it. Boldnesshas genius, power and magicit." in -Goethe

Ourgoal was toplace three climbers, one from each country, on the top of the world together. They would demonstrate that through friendshipand cooperation, high goals can be reached. We choseour enemiesto climb with- theSoviets and the Chinese. Thiswas before Glasnost,before Perestroika, beforethe Reagan-Gorbachev summit, before Gorbachev visited Beijing. We would hold the summit of all summit meetings, enemies becomingfriends. WhenI first wentto theChinese with this idea they said, "Mr. Whittaker, we have not hadSoviets in our countryfor thirty years." "Exactly;'I replied.''What an opportunity."I explainedthat we would fund the forclimb world peace. To see our countries unitedtoward a commongoal would be asymbol for the whole world. Ittooka tripto Moscow and anotherback to Beijing togetpennission forthe Soviets to join. Then thesaid Chinese they could not participate - theirclimbers lacked the skills andexperience of theUS. andSoviet climbers.I guaranteedthat the countriesthree wouldgo togetherto the top: if onerountry's climber hadto turnback before the summit, the othertwo would turnaround and a newwave of threewould climbers try.I then invited theirto team rome to Mt Rainierto get acquainted. H theywould send strong usedclimbers to working at high altitude, we would teachthem enoughtechnique to scale Everest. Six months later, they acceptedproposals my and agreedto be100% participants. Ourexpedition had fiveclimbersandfive supportpeoplefrom each country.Each team had a leader, deputyleader, doctor, inletpreter and basecamp organiz.ers. My wife,Dianne Roberts, was ExecutiveDirec­ tor,working full-timetoraiseour$1,100,(XX)budgetandco-ordinatethe many details.I was leaderof theAmerican team, VladimirShatayev led theSoviets andLosang Dawa theChinese. At endlessprotocol meetings, theleaders and deputyleaders dis­ cussed every detail of strategyfor the climb - bothon and offthe mountain.The Chinese wanted the climb logo changed to include their wordfor Everest, "Qomolangma" -Goddess Mother of theWorld. We put it in Chinese script on all future T-shirt orders. During along 12 TheMountaineer discussionabout leadership, Shatayev suggestedone overall leader so that decisions on the mountain could be made quickly without going through six leaders and threeinterpreters. I held out for threeleaders having equal power. Finally, Shatayev held up both hands and de­ clared, 'We will solvethis problem democratically.We will vote!" So the Chinesecommunist and the Sovietcommunist votedme the overall leader of the expedition. The Chineseand Sovietslanded in the northwestin June, 1989. On Mt. Rainier, we hiked to the NisquallyGlacier and setup camp. I saw a candy bar wrapperon thesnow, picked it up and said,'We will leave this place cleaner than we found it." The Chinese and Soviets were astonishedas we carried out that promise- even collecting,bagging and hauling out by tobogganall our human waste. Early on, we had decidedour climb for peaceshould alsobe aclimb for the environment. Environmental degradation isas much a threatto the planet as war. The 20th Anniversaryof Earth Day would be April 22, 1990.In 1963,I had stood on top of Everest May 1st. It was an ambitious plan, but I thought it fitting for our climbers to aim for the summit nine days earlier, on Earth day. The first hour we were together on the Nisqually,one of my team came over to me and said, ''Youknow Jim, theseguys are just like us." Climbing on Rainier was a great opportunityto get acquainted. We did the mountain by fivediff erent routes, and began to learnto communi­ cate with each other. The first phrasewe learnedfrom the Sovietswas, ''Nyet problem." The first American expressionthe Soviets picked up was, ''The weather sucks." At the end of the session,as we headed back to Seattle,Shatayev turnedto me: "Our country is going to lose face," he said. ''How?" I asked. He told me the Peace Climb team had beento the UnitedStates and was going to China, but not to the U.S.S.R. We allmust come to the SovietUnion for two weeksto climb Mt. Elbrus at their expense.I told him the Americans had usedup their vacationtime on Rainier and it would be very difficult to go. Looking puzzled, he said, 'What is vacation?" I explained that climbers in the states do not get paid by their governments like those in China and the Soviet Union, that we had to work at other jobs to make a living. But he insisted. He and the Sovietteam would loseface if we did not show up in their homeland. So Iraised our budget forairfares and asked my climbersto tryto get two weeks offin September.We managed to sendseven of the U.S. team to Elbrus, for further team building and face saving. Five months later, on February 24th, 1990, our threecountries met in Beijing for the trip through Lhasaand across the TibetanPlateau to the Rongbuk monastery and Everest BaseCamp at 17,500'. Our supplies totalled 20 tons, half food and half equipment. We would be self Mt. Everest Earth Day20 13 sufficientat this elevation and abovefor over two months-a small city of mountaineersfrom threediverse cultures who would trust our lives to each other on the highestmountain on earth. I was surprised by the weather patterns we experienced on the mountain. In 1963, no stormlasted more than threedays, yet here we were getting hit by week long stormsback to back. But as we fought the elements and our own weaknessesand misunderstandings, we welded into one strongteam committed to a common goal. During a severe storm,we abandoned camp ill (21,500'). It was a grueling twelve mile descent to Base Camp. Somehow, I tore a calf muscle. The doctors and I thought it was a more serious condition, thrombophlebitis-a bloodclot, which could belife threatening at this altitude. I reluctantly decided to leave the mountain and team I'd workedso hard for, to seekmedical treatmentin Kathmandu. Eventu­ ally, I ended up in a hospital in Bangkok,where they determinedI had no clot. Ten days after leaving BaseCamp, on April 20th, I rejoined my team. We had a satellitetelephone system and fax machine at BaseCamp - a big change from the threeweeks it usedto take to have messages carried out by runner. On April 22, Earth Day, I spokewith President Bush aboutthe peaceand understandingour teamwork was demon­ strating.The environmental concernsPresident Bush expressedhelped fuelour efforts for the summit, but we were not yet there.There were injuries and delays. Soviet climber, Victor Volodin, tried to climb too high toofast without properacclimizati onand suffered cerebral edema, which prevented him from further participation on the mountain. A few days after Earth Day, LaVerne Woods becamesick at Camp N (23,500') and was escorted off the mountain by the Soviets with whom she was climbing. In Kathmadu, the doctor diagnosed thrombophlebitisand pulmonary emboli- he said shewould prolr ably have died within 24 hoursif we had not got off themountain. In spite of these illnesses and the extremely poor weather, we continuedto push our route and setup camps above the North Col. The setbacksonly servedto make us work harder. We came to know each other in many ways. Removing garbage from the roofof the world pulled us together, as shoulder to shoulder we dug huge pits (small landfills) and buried debris from not only our expedition but many previous expeditionsas well. The Soviets had provided us with exceptionally light oxygen cylinders made of titanium.We traded four computers for 150 bottles (filled with Russian oxygen from Moscow) plus regulators and face masks. They also brought along titaniumpitons and ice screws. We were pleasedto seethis preciousmetal used forthis peacefulenterprise rather than MIG warplanes.Most oftheteammadecarriesabove26,000' 14 TheMountaineer

on bottledoxygen to Camp VI. Withsix camps stocked, it was agreedthe first assaultteam would carrycamp VII on theirbacks, set it up, spendthe night, then go to the summitthe next day using bottledoxygen. Our team had been praying in at least four languages to their respective Supreme Beings for a change in the weather. Back home,Dianne had even enlisted some friends of theHopi andNavaho to "move thewind." As we prepared forour firstassault from high camp, theweather turnedand becamecl earandcalm. Ourweeksofhardwork in the winds and stormspaid off. We wereready to attemptthe summit. I talked to Dianneon May 5th and said,"Our prayers have been answered.There is no summitplume. No wind.And it is perfectlyclear." She replied, "Thenthey must havemoved it here-becauseit is gusting80 knots in thestrait and four treeshave blown downin our yard!" Most of our team was still strong, healthy, and dedicated. We decidedto trysix for thesummit, two fromeach country. Two ropes meant oneteam rould turn back andwe would stillfulfill our goal of havingone climber from each rountryon top together. OnMay 6th,on a perfectlystill day, Robert Link, Steve Gall, Sergey Arsentjev,GrigoryLunjakov,Gyal Bu, andDa Cherne stoodtogether on thehighestpointofearth,demonstratingtothemselvesandto the world what rooperation betweenenemies rould achieve. After placing the two fromeach country on toptogether, our teamwas freeto tryfor the summitinanystylethey wished-wi thorwithoutoxygen,from Camp VI or VII. Incredibly,we had threemore days of good weather,and fourteenmore succes.5ful ascents. We succeededfar beyond our wildestdreams: eNodeaths(Historically,justover200climbershavereachedEverest's summit Just over100 have diedon themountain.) • 20 to summit.the • FirstSoviet woman to thesummit. • SecondOrinese/Tibetan woman to the summit. • Fivesummited without bottledoxygen. • Two tonsof garbageremoved from the mountain. To climbEverest is difficult.To do it withformer enemies, through interpreters,and standat leastthree on thesummit together, was said bymany to beimposstble. When we returned toLhasa May 25th, the schoolswere closed in celebrationof thePeace Oimb and 5,

RhododendrunForest-Nepal Donna P. Price

It is thechildren that we honorwith this climb. We inheritthe earth fromour parents and our grandparents,but we borrow it fromour children.It is only fittingthat we tryto makeit a betterplace in which to live in peaceand harmony withall things. We tooksome of thestrongest mountain climbers in theworld and had themost successfulclimb in Everest'shistory. What if we tookthe bestscientists, engineers, argriculturists-regardlessof nationality­ and satthem down withinterpreters to solve the problems of global warming, acidrain, starvation? We couldsave our planet. Addendum: GrigoryLunjakov was killedOctober 7th, 1990in a fallon Manaslu, at an altitudeof 7 ,200 meters. Ekaterinalvanova, the firstSovet woman to climb Everest, and AndreiTselischevwereawardedadecreefromPresidentGorbachev­ the highest order a citiz.en can achieve- for"the high sports skill, courage andheroism shown duringtheconquestofthe highest summit of theworld, Mt. Everest." VladimirShatayevwasawardedthe title of "PremiereMountaineer and ExpeditionLeader of theUSSR." 16 TheMou ntaineer The Changing Role of the Trail User

Ruth Ittner The Mountaineersand trailsare closelyrelated. Over the years this relationship has changed. Evolving from use of existing trails and creatingboot trails to participatingin trailplanning, maintenance and construction.The story of thischange reflectsthe Mountaineersincreas­ ing awareness of the urgent needto bepartners with the land manage­ ment agencies in the management of recreationtrails. ManyMountain­ eers are unaware of the Oub's important contributions to enhance Washington State's trails and the critical work that remains to be accomplished. When I joined The Mountaineers in the 1950s the Forest Service trails primarily provided transportation for managing the National Forests.Only incidentally werethey usedfor recreation.In factmany of the trails were inheritedwith the land: Indian trailsused forharvesting and trading;mining routes created by prospectingfor precious metals; wagon routes established by settlersmoving west; driveways resulting from themovementof sheepand cattle to grazing areas.Trails provided a way to get to the destination by the shortest possible route. The Forest Service was established in 1905, one year before the founding of our Club, The Mountaineers in 1906. Among the motivat­ ing purposeswere to protectthe forest reserves,established under 1891 authorizing legislation, from fire and theft. Shortly, pack animals traveling to lookout sites necessitated trailconstruction and building projects. In the 1960s, The Mountaineers published a bestseller "100 Hikes", a prelude to the outdoor recreationexplosion, the discoveryof trailsfor recreationpurposes. The Club wrestled with the questionof theimpact of guidebookshave uponthe recreation resource. While we didn't realize it at the time, the boots of Mountaineers established trail routes. Surveyor's tapeoften provided cues forroutes up peaks.For example,on theroutetoGoatFlatsand ThreeFingers, we drove to the end of a logging road, took a compass bearing and scampered up the road cut. After a number of parties followed these directionswe had a discernableroute. Sometimes we moved a log out of the way or founda shortcut but our focus was on the destination. Then during John M. Davis' Presidency, The Mountaineersestab­ lished a Trails Planning and Advisory Committee.As I recall,we had several requestsrelated to trails. One came from the new North Cascade National Park asking for comments on their trails plans. Through participation on a 1962 climber'souting on the Bear-Redoubt Ridge, I had become aware of earlier explorations of the area. Our combined ChangingRole of the Trail User 17 effortssatisfied the new park's request. After the Departmentof Natural Resources(DNR) receivedauthor­ ity to develop recreation facilities on lands under their jurisdiction,a private land developer'saccess road cut the Mt. Si trail in segments. DNR asked for our help in finding land which could bepurchased for a trailhead and in locating a new trail on public land. Through a cooperative partnership approach, we achieved the desired result enabling DNR to apply for funds to constructthe trailhead, parking lot and trail from the Interagency Committee for Outdoor Recreation which had beenestablished by initiative Measure 215 in 1964.Aturning pointoccurred in the early 70s when the Bureau of OutdoorRecreation and the Public Lands Institute sponsored the First National Trails Symposium in Washington D.C.. LouiseMarshall, Loretta Slater and I showed upas participants from Washington State. At the national level, a National Trails Councilwas formed to plan a NationalTrails Sympo­ sium every two years and to publish "Trail Tracks" with informationon what is happeningthroughout the UnitedStates. In 1990 the National Trails Council becameAmerican Trails and adopteda National Trails Agenda as a goalsstatement. The First NationalTrails Symposiuminspired action, and about a doz.enus got together at The Mountaineersto look at problems relating to trails. The result: passageof Sno Park legislation, developmentof The Responsible Trail User Brochure, an Open Letter from Mt. Baker­ Snoqualmie National Forest askingfor help with trailmaintenance. The Interagency Committee for Outdoor Recreation also formed a State Trails Advisory Committee. Questions were raised: Where do trail dollars come from? Who participates in the budget and decision making process at the federal, state and local level? How are Forest Servicetrails selectedfor relocation andI or reconstruction?The Moun­ taineersheld a seriesof seminarson TrailFinance to findthe answers. During Rare I, roadlessarea review and evaluation, I attended one of the meetings out of curiosity. For each roadless area, the Forest Servicehad prepared a one-page summary.I thumbedthrough theMt. Baker-Snoqualmie draft document to Eagle Rock area. We'd been climbing around on Gunn, Merchant, Baring and Spire the last few weekends.Imagine my surpriseto read: "Since thereare no riversin this area thereis virtually no recreation use." Duringthe break, I went up to the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie ForestSupervisor and said ''How can you saythis? TheMountaineershaveregularly scheduledclimbs inthearea almost every weekend." Don Campbellreplied: "Nobody told us this was happening. We didn't know." And this was true! Then in the 70s, the Alpine Lake Protection Society developed a loose-leaftrail inventory notebookwith one page devotedto each trail. In order toshow the recreationpotential of the proposedAlpine Lakes 18 TheMountaineer Wilderness,Louis Moldenhour presentedthe original to the Congress­ man officiating at Hearing held in Seattle.Later, The Mountaineerstook the lead in expanding the trail inventory to include all the National Forestsin Washington State. Alan Sari suggested that the inventory be computerized and the conceptof TRIS ( Trail and RecreationInforma­ tion System) was born. Our trailfinance seminars, led to an invitation to participate in a meetingcalled by the American Hiking Society.Then the Appalachian Mountain Club requested that we share the slide show ,"The Trail InventoryandYou" withtheirResearchCommittee.AsLouiseMarshall and I traveledtogether to these meetingsin Washington D. C. area, who should boardthe plane in Denver but the Forest ServiceChief. When we spoketo him he wondered whether we would contact our Washington Congressional delegation about the removal of the restrictive dollar amount from the Volunteersin the ForestAct. It sohappened thatwe knew details of the problem since we had recentlydiscussed it with the Darrington and North Bend Ranger Districtspersonnel. At the meetingwe learned that the Forest Service was planning a Trails Inventory Workshop in Denverfor their recreation and engineer­ ing officers from each region. I was invited to attend and present the Trail Inventory slide show as the keynoter speaker. Two women represented trail users, one from the West and and one from the F.ast. All the Forest Serviceparticipants were men. A few years later a Forest Serviceworkshop was held in Fort Collins, Colorado to develop guidelines to help ForestService personnel work with volunteers more effectively. Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie's Deputy Forest Supervisor asked his recreation staff officer and me to partici­ pate. In the late 70s, a conference at the University of Washington fo­ cussed on "Recreation Impact on Wildlands", gathering together all available researchon thesubject for the first time, and bringingit to the attentionof land managers and users. Today recreation impact in the Alpine LakesWilderness is headline news. Years later, researchers developed a process for determining th� "Limits of Acceptable Change" occuring from recreational impact. They presentedthis concept at a PacificNorthwest re gional workshop to personnelfrom the nineteenNational Forests and representativesof other land management agencies. A representativeof The Mountaineers participated. A MountainManagement Workshop was held in Portland in 1989. Problems were identifiedand prioritized with the Mountaineersand American Alpine Club participating. The workshop was a genuine effort to discussproblems from the pointof viewof the users,rangers, researchers and administrators, and to search for viable solutions. ChangingRole of the Trail User 19 Another workshop is planned for the fall of 1991 and dialogue is important. What a contrast from the 1950s! Today the National Forests are recognizedas America's Great Outdoors! PresidentBush has submit­ ted a special initiativeto Congress in addition to the Forest Service's budget- a threeyear $625 million package designed to restoreand improve outdoor recreation opportunities on our National Forests. Unfortunately the package focuses on recreation management rather than trails. Nevertheless the Forest Services now recogniz.es trails as linear recreationexperience involving discoveryand challenge. Participating in this changing world of trails has been a great experience! But my purpose insharing theseevents is toemphasiz.e the need forMountaineers to continueto carrythe torch! Trail usersare no longerignored , our commentsare solicited . Requestsarrive from land management agencies arrive every week! Our muscle power and professionalsk ills areneeded. Our recreationresources are in jeopardy from overuse, lack of funds and winter stormdamage. Mt. Balcer-Snoqualmie estimatesthat almost all of itsapproximately 120 trailheads are within one and one half s hours drive of Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, or Bellingham. Thus the first four miles of trail extending from these trailheads are within reach of volunteers for maintenancework on a day or weekendtrip. This amounts to480miles, over 40 percent of the system. H volunteers responded to this need, appropriatedfunds would probablybe adequate to take careof the rest of thesystem. The Mountaineerscould providedynamic leadership for trail main­ tenanceand constructionas we have in many other activities: training courses,mountain searchand rescue,a climbing textbookFreedom of the Hills, theGuidebook Series and mountaineering firstaid courses. We have 12,000members, who participatein a wide varietyof outdoor recreationactivities at all seasonsof the year, and have an environment awarenessof the needto carefor our recreationresources. Some steps have beentaken in thisdirection. In the1980s The Mountaineers helped to createVolunteers forOutdoor Washington (VOW) with volunteeer stewardship of our outdoorrecreation resources in partnershipwith the land management agenciesas itsmission. While hiking, fallen branches and boulders can be removed from the tread, encroaching brush prunedback, small downed treesmoved off the trail and mud puddles drained. VOW offers trainingon how to make lastingimprovements, such as installing waterbars, constructingturnpikes or puncheon. In 1990,Presi dent Dianne Hoff setan exampleby transformingthe tradi­ tionalPr esident'sWalk into the PresidentsWork Party. The ForestSer vice's NationalRecreation Strategy encourages part­ nerships.One resultof this programis that Mountaineerengineers are 20 TheMountaineer working in partnership with the North Bend Ranger District, and Washington Trails Association in building a bridge. The President's Initiativeunderscores the importanceof partnerships.For future gen­ erationsto enjoy our recreationresources on public lands usersmust work together as partnerswith land management ageciesin planning and caring for them.Today trailand recreationissue s aretop priority. We can make a difference to trail and to our recreation resources: it requires individual and organiz.ational commitment, dedication, and action.

KarenSykes Changing Role of the Trail User 21 Rather than just �ripeabout lack of maintenance,trai l userscan do something! Hereare some ideas! • As you hike, move debris and rocks off the trail and drain the puddles. These actions may save the trail from a washout, prevent ecologicaldamage and reducemaintenance costs. • Volunteerfor trailwork parties.It is fun, good exerciseand reward­ ing. Participate in at least one work party a year. Consider spending one day on a work party for every ten days on the trails. • Supporttrail budgets by writing letters and making phone calls to decision makers. • Learnhow to do basic trailmaintenance and constructtrail structures soyou can make a lasting contribution. Becomea trailcrew leader so you can superviseand encorage others in this effort. • Learn more about the plants, birds and animals whose habitat provides you with a such wonderful outdoorrecreationexperiences. Take time to appreciatewhat you seeand hear. • Practice minimum impact techniques: reprints of "Easy Does it" from ''The Mountaineer'' August 1988,are available. • Focusonarecreationissue.Readaboutit.Findoutwhatishappening and why. Continue to follow and understandthe issue. Discussit with others. Prepare yourself to assist in drafting Mountaineer comments. • Understand and participatein the planning processthat affect trails and recreation resources you enjoy. Bewilling to provide informa­ tion and/ or comment on trailreconstruction projects. • Complete a TRIS trail conditionreport for m for each of your hikes during the snow melt period.This informationalso assists agencies in schedulingtrail crews. • Participate in national conferences where research results, new management proctices and current trends are presented and dis­ cussed. The West is different from the East Coast and we need to makesure our needsare consideredin developing nationalpolicy. • Work in partnership with other organizations,Volunteers forOut­ door Washington, Washington Trails Association, Alpine Lakes ProtectionSociety, Mount Rainier NationalPark Associateson trail­ relatedissues. Mutual goals can be achieved by a coordinatedeffor t. The sum total of efforts is much greater than the efforts we each contributed. • Offer to represent the pedestrian trail user on agency advisory committees.When a vacancyoccurs, The Mountaineersare asked for nominations. • Be willing to coordinatea trailor restorationproject. • Draft a positionpaper, put your thoughtson paper. 22 TheMountai neer

• Becomea knowledgeresource about trails in a particulararea and be willing to attend Ranger District Open House when future plans affectingthe areaare discussed. Trailandrecreationissues arebecomingmoreandmoresignificant The importance of this message is underscored by President Bush's specialinitiat ive-The NationalForests- America's Great Outdoors--a 3-year,$625 million packaage developed to restore and improve outdoor recreation opportunities on the National Forests. Thesefunds arein addition to the regularfunding for these proposeon the NationalForests. Among otherthings the initiative would: • Rehabilitate NationalForest wildl ife-viewing, recreationalfisheries and recreation facilities to meet health and safety standards and remove barriers toaccess by older and disabledpeople. Currently, about42 percentof recreationaluse on the NationalForests occurs in areas that fail to meet health,safety, access and quality standards. • Provide funding to rehabilitateand maintain NationalForest trails, especiallynear urbanareas, in cooperationwith trailsorgan izations, volunteer groupsand other partners.Nearly 60,000 milesof trailon the National Forests are substandard and in needof improvement. • Provide funding to inventorywilde rnesses and monitortheir con­ ditions, establish benchmarks to measure environmental change and plan for integrated wildernessmanagement. This proposed funding will be used to promote partnerships be­ tween the Forest Service and recreation, wildlife and fisheries user groups, state andlocal service organizations and localbusiness through challengecost-shares. At least 75%of the funds for recreationconstruc­ tion in National Forestsnear citieswill be usedas Federal costshares for cash, materials, time, equipment and labor fromnon fed eralsources. The ConservationDivision has traditionallyhan dledMoun taineer comments on public policy issues relatingto land use,water, wildlife habitat,clean air, sustainable timberharvest practices and preservation ofour ancient forests.But what aboutrecreati on orientedissues relating to trail reconstructionpriorities, road access, recreation user fees, camp­ grounds, and recreation user permits. Mountaineers recreating on public land need to be concerned about public policies affecting the recreationresource and to develop a way to have an effective voice. The Mountaineers contribution is valuable. It is authentic. Our memberssee and hear what is happeningto our public lands. We can set anexample forthepublicbypractidngminimumimpacttechniques and beingresponsible trail users.Our conservation orientation makes us awareof the fragile ecosystem.We can setan example for thepublic by practicingmimimurn impact techniquesand beingresponsible trail ChangingRole of the Trail User 23

CascadePass AnnMarshall users.We have a long histo ry of workingin partnership withother organizationson trailrel atedissu es. Furthermore, TheMo unta ineersis un iq ue in it s ab ilit y to represent a wide spectrum of typesof users and different age gro up s. In addition we have a long term commitment to public recr eation policy. 24 TheMountaineer "Conquistadorsof the Useless" (Winter Ascentsof Mt. Constance)

Rex Andrew

A localsage gives this advice: He who hikes all the way up to Lake Constance should tell everyone, and he will be called a stout and strong individual: but he who hikesup more than once should tell no one, lesthe be called a fool! And so,inmakingthisreport,Irisk thereputationofnotonly myself but those of several local Mountaineers who are otherwise well-re­ spected membersof society.For, you see,members of thisgroup have hiked up to the lake and beyond many timesover the past few years, often with heavy packs and climbing gear! And if that isn't evidence enough of flaws in our character, let me forewarnyou: thesewere all winterexcursions!

TheNorth Gully-Mt. Constance Rex Andi:ew "Conquistadorsof the Useless " 25

AvalancheVa lley-Mt. Constance Rex Andrew

These quixotic adventures began for SL (in deference to my col­ leagues,who still try to hide these"character flaws" , I preferto grant them "pseudonymity" and use only their initials.) and myself on a WinterClub Climb in February, 1986.Being Olympic Peninsula locals, wewereluredto Mt.Constance becauseitwasinourownbackyard. On the drive to Brinnon, we thrilledto the passagein the Climber'sGuide that winter ascentsfe ll only to "strongparties ... when conditionswere optimum." That weekend the weather was gorgeous, and we could spot the rime ice on the summit block from the Dosewallips camp­ ground. Conditions were indeed optimum - and, beingfresh Basic coursegrads, we were certainly a strongparty! We camped in the lower Avalanche Valley and attacked via the Maz.amaRoute, crossingover to the Eastfa ce at dawn and continuing on intothe upper gully. There,however, we encountered thick water ice. Without adequateequipment or experience,we had to retreat.The attempt turned out to bediscouraging and exhausting, but the condi­ tionshad been perfect clear blue sky, dazzling white snow, flaming scarlet sunsets. In retrospect, I suspect that these are the type of memories that can kindle a passion. Throughout the ensuing summer, we were true to the sage'sadvice and boastedabout our attempt. Inside, however,memoriesof the alpine winter beautycontinued to haunt us. By February,1987, I knew I had to return.I talkedmy colleague AM intoan attempt: knowing nothingof the rigors ahead, he obligingly agreed. The time, we armedto the teethwith icescrews, pickets, flukes and 26 TheMountaineer ice hammers. Nothing but profanityhelped, however, when we en­ countered hip-deep sno w wel l below the lake. Did we haveenou gh sense bacto tum k? Ofcourse not. Ah, thewonderfulmisery! Bythetirne we reached the lake, we were thoroughlyexhau ste d. So you can imagi ne our surprise whenwe turned aro und and sawSL, CWan d PG, a trio of Kitsapclimbers, lurchup the trai l behind us! Somu ch for my anonymity.SL wa s thusrev ealedto alsohave the fine Lak e Consta nce characterflaw , and hadeven dr agge d CW and PG into fraythe . Weteamed up and togethersouth climbedthe chu teand theup per icegully again, and crossedTem the ble Traverse . Just beyond the traverse,how ever, SL narrowly escaped falla when he slippedun roped on an icy ledge, and thepar ty, losing itsco llective nerve, turnedbac k. (Later thatevenin g, we stopped at Logger'sLan ding in Quilce ne to commiserateour defea t, thusestablishingatrad itionthat has become de rigueur forCons tancecli mbs.) AM proved also to be worthy of seriouschara cterfla ws whenhe agreed tojoin me on a returnat tempta monthlate r. It was thelast day of Wi nter, and we werean xious toexploit the lu ck of thethi rd try. Thi s time, we hadeven prepare d a new summit registerfrom PVC pipe. (Summit registers,some for reason , always disappear on Constance.) Thu s, fortifi ed witha good horosc ope, propi tiouskanna andeven a summit offering, we certainlyfelt optimi stic. Conditions, though,turned out to be ominous! A heavy fresh snowfallblanketed therange. We had intentionsof climbingtheCollege Route andca mped at thehead of AvalancheValley in a silent, wh ite vastness.Atta ckingvia thenorth gully, we were dousedby two small avalanch es evenbefore we reachedthe ri dge. Abo ve, conditions did notmode rate. We belayed five pitches through steep, hip-deep snowin a gradual, rising traverse across the F.astface, settingpr otecti on into any crack we could find. (Curiously enough,we useda #5 hex on everypi tch.) Thelast pitch endedon the ridgeto p at theedg e of a shortcliff. The cliff is usually bypassed aro und itseastern Finbase bythe gerTraverse, but, in theheav y snow, wecould notlocate the trave rse.The snow had literall y filledit over. I>efeated, angry, exhaustedand vigorously profane, wemadeaharrowingretreat in thickening fogandincreasingavalanche danger. You mightthink that these exha ustingand uns ucces.5f ul escapades might tempttow us ardsother recreati ons. And thismight be true of reasonablepeople. Bu t our fascination withConstance, however, had grownin toan obses.5i on thatwa s hbera tingus fromou r reason.In the summer of 1987, SL andmade Ieach a quick reconnaissance of the mountain:soloed I theFi ngerTraverse, and SL found a new route variationpastthecliffusing abroken ledgetraverse acros.s thewestface. InJa nuary 1988, SL, CW and I made another attempt. The most "Conquistadors ofthe Useless" 27 obviouslyderanged of our many attempts, wecheerfully dismissedthe forecasts of impendingstorms and marchedin up toAvalanche Valley. We dug a pitthree-feet deep , pitchedthe tent , andheld on for dearlife all night long. In the morning we marchedri ght back out toLogger's Landing. A year later,in Jan uary1989 , I talkedAM into yet attempt.another By nowit was clear to bothof us that neither hadlick a of sense. So we aba ndonedou r modesty and asked , if the ascent to thelake was bani, why not doit severa l times?Sothinking, wema detwopreliminarytrips intothe upper valley tocache foodand climbingsupplies. You see, in additionto the usual camp in AvalancheVa lley, we had decid ed to carrysl eepingbags, shov els,extrafood astoveup and ontotheridgefor asnowcavebiv ouac. Totally mad,we wereresolvedtoclimbCoMtance onc eandforall,regardless of weather ordarkness, nomatterhowmany days it might take. Aga in we camped in theupper val ley, and aga in we struck up the north gully, this timewithout incident.Ontherid ge,therocks werebare and wet, and we traversed up the wel l-rehearsed fivepi tches,placing that #5hex in familiarcrac ks. We reached our previoushi ghpoin t and pausedto con sider. We hadpl annedto biv oua c hereand tacklethe Finger Traverse(F.T.) in the morning, but we weremaking good time, and, besides,there wasn't enoughsnow to bui ld a snowcave. So we cachedou r bivouac gear and preparedF.T. totacklethe The F.T. wasagainsnowedover,so weburiedaflukeandapicketf oradead­ manan chor . I led down thecolla psing slope,flou ndering,wading and crawling,sending wet snowav alanches overthe edge into space. The footholdson thetrav erse werefilled in withsnow, so I had toon rely memoryto find them. Iplacedtwo pieces of protecti on, tmned the comer, and slithered across the steep , snow-covered exit slabto a meagerbela y crack. anchoredI the pitch with the#5 .hex Icalledand ca lledtoAM, but hecouldn't hear me.Solhadtoreverse the F.T. backto him. The F.T. was beroming an old friend by now.We talkeditoveranddeveloped aplan.IwentforwaidacrosstreF.T.again,set trebela y and waitedIn five minutes, AM followedautomatically on my belay. Beyond, the route looked intimating- across thetop of thebig east facecirque and up a narrowb1ack gul ly filledwi th a twistedribbo n of dirtysnow- but I knewfrom my summerreco nnaissancethat it was only low third cla ss. So we left the ropeand madegood time, and less thanan hour later we were bouldering up thelas t wetblock s ontothe summit. We didn't stay long becausethe clouds wereincreasing and ob­ scuredof most our view. Weplaced summia new t registerin the rocks , shoo k hands, tooka fewpictures and headed down. 28 TheMount aineer By the timewe reachedour bivouac gear, thewestern sunl ight was cutting horiz.ontally through a rent in the clouds onto fog-billows formingabove the ridge, bathing the slopesaround us inan eerie,omni­ directionalglow. The glow was fading to murk when we reached the top of the northgully. The upper gully was still muddy and slick, sowe choseto rappel past thedi fficulties.I setthe rappel and AM went first. Atthebottom,hetoldmethatconditionswerestilltooslicktodownclimb and that we would need a secondrappel. By this timeit had grown quite dark, and inside the gully it became much darker. Poised on a high ledge, standing quietly in the winter darkness, waiting for AM to finish the secondrappel, I had a chance to reflect.We had finally climbedConstance, and it had taken usabout five attempts. We had really become,in the words of Lionel Terray, "con­ quistadors of the useless." For me, the achievement brought- some measure of relief and sanity:I was no longer compelledto trudgeup this mountain on another crazyattempt. I could beginthe switch tomore human recreations. Postscript: As for SL and CW, they continued in the finest of traditionsto drag several more innocent souls up into the valley two weeksla ter, but were turnedback by the numbing temperaturesof an advancing Arctic cold front. In early 1990, they invited me on another attempt,but I smugly turned them down. I hear they will betrying again in Winter. If they invite me, though, I certainly won't go. I'm not a fool anymore. Of course,I returned with SL and CW in September 1990when SL led the first successful Intermediate MountaineeringClimb of the Constance Traverse (from Logger's Landing up the Northeast buttress and back out to Logger's Landing), but that was different. That was in the Summer. Nope, no more meaningless Winter fiascoes for me. Well, maybe just up to the lake. But only once more. Honest. Just to reportfirsthand on their next silly attempt. Nope. These hard Winter forays onto Constance just aren't for me. Just up to the lake. No farther. Honest. Photographing the Ancient Forest 29 Photographing the Ancient Forest

John Warth Why do we soseldom see photographs which reallycapture what we experiencein thosecathedral groves of ancient forest-that lumines­ cent quality,that "presence?" I think the biggestreason is thatphoter graphingthe ancient forest requiresspecial tricks of thetrade. It seems that most reproductions of forests, especially in the more technical publications,comeoutessentiallyblack and white (even if in color). This is primarilydue to the typicallyextreme contrastin the forest, which renders most everything in a photo either over- or under-exposed. I usedto enjoy the ancient forest mostly in good weather. All that dripping on self and equipment was unpleasant and damaging. But when the Sierra Oub hired me to study and photograph the North Cascadessome years back, I had to go out in all kinds of weather. My discovery: our temperaterain forestsare at their bestwhen in their element-rain. The wet foliage reflectslight into the gloomy forest.And it sparkles! Second-growth forests, especially fully stocked "treefarms," are a different story.Here the denselypacked tree trunks shade out practi­ cally all the understory plants, even moss. Result: monotony and maximum contrast, especiallyin sun. And there are no forestpatriarches to blow over, which would create openings for the light to come through. Granted, deliberatelyseeking out the wettest weather can create problems, especially on extended backpacking trips. Though not as bad as salt spray, pure rain water can harm cameras. Alsolenses can fog over, creatinga soft-focus effectnot currently in vogue. Theseproblems can be solved in the main by a little ingenuity-plasticbags, special boxes,etc.Thereare someinexpensive"weather-proof' camerason the market, but they do not have interchangeablelenses. While that tantalizing luminescencein the ancient forest may seem quite bright to theeye, it act:uallyproduces a very low reading on your lightmeter. Hence, a sturdy tripodis a must. A log or rock might serve in a pinch, of course.It goeswithout sayingthat a polarizerfilter could cutoutmostof thesparklein the wet foliage, resultingin a "dead" forest. You may want to experimentwith the various strengths of skylight filtersor a UV(haze) filter. TheSkylight-lAfilter isconsidered perfectly safe, thoughI felt even it gave resultssomewhat unnatural. I discoveredthat late in the day photos can besuper, givensufficient exposure. The colors are warmer, despite the cloud cover. You may needto give more than meteredexposure, especially if your lens has 30 TheMountaineer

Buck Creek Trail John Warth

BoulderRiver John Warth Photographing the AncientForest 31 been stoppeddo wn formaxim umde pthof field.lbi sanomalyiscalled recip rocity departure. With a bit of practiceand expe rim entingan y photographer should be able toca pture what he or shesees in the ancientfores t. 'Thecause of ancient forest preservationneed s all the goodpho tosit canget. Good lucid

MillerRiver John Warth 32 TheMountaineer High Skiing: A Decadeof Exploration in the Cascades and Olympics

Lowell Skoog

Skiing the skyline--startingat point Aand skiing to point B, never retracing your tracks, never knowing quite what you will find over the next pass-that is the appeal of high route skiing. In Europe, high ski traverses have been an important part of alpinism since1897, when Wilhelm Paulcke led a party across the Bernese Oberland. In NorthAmerica, Orland Bartholomew skied the length of the Sierra Nevada alone in the winter of 1929. Yet in the Pacific Northwest, high route skiing is just emerging from infancy. This can beexplained in part by late development of mountain­ eeringhere. It can further beexplained by the unique characteristics of our Northwest mountains. The Olympics, and especiallythe North Cascades,are wild country. There are no alpine huts; many valleys are unroaded. The window of opportunityfor a ski traverse, when stable weather coincides with a solid snowpack, is short,sometirneson ly a few weeks inMay or June. The terrain is ruggedand complex. In many places, the only practical route traverses an alp slope or double cirque, where cliffs above threaten avalanches and cliffs below await a slip. All thesefactors have limited Northwest ski mountaineeringmostly to ascents and descents of individual peaks. They make ski traverseshere especially challeng­ ing. Since 1980, a small numberof ski mountaineershave respondedto this challenge, exploring a network of over 300 miles of high country in the North Cascadesand Olympics. They have discovered that spring ski traverses yield rewardsnot available in summer. Routes scarred in August by bootsor careless camping are pristine in May when buried by snow. There are no cairnsto follow, so aski party feels as though it is exploring the route for the first time. Snow and wind sculptthe terrain into elegant and ephemeral shapes. Evencountry that is familiaron foot seems new when viewed through a skier's eyes. The Routes As the classic North Cascade highroute, the Ptarmigan Traverse was an early target for ski mountaineers.The firstattempts to ski it, by Steve Barnett andfr iends, showed dearly the problems that later parties would have to overcome. WithBillNicolai,Barnettsetoutfor thePtarmiganin May,1977after a series of heavy storms. On the first day they reached the crux of the High Skiing 33 route, an avalanche slopebetween Mixup Arm and the Cache Glacier that was wanning dangerously in the mid-daysun. They camped to wait for cooler temperaturesthe next morning.Later that afte rnoonand the following day they watched avalanches repeatedly plunge off Mixup Peak, sweeptheirroute,and thunderover cliffs to the valley floor below.They had littletrouble decidingto retreat. The following June, Barnettreturned with Dave Kahn and Mark Hutson. They got past the crux avalanche slope this time, but were trapped by fog and drizzle in the middle of the traverse. The bad weather lastedlonger than their foodsupply, sothey had to bail out via the South Cascade River. The ensuing bushwack was so awful that Barnettdidn't returnfor 4 years. Intriguedby one of Barnett'sslide shows, Brian Sullivan convinced Dan Stage and Dick Easter to attempt the route in 1981. Their successful June traversewas uneventful by comparisonwith the earlier attempts. According to Sullivan, the main obstacleon their five day trip was a thinning snowpack, which forcedthem to walk severalsections. In a range as rugged as the North Cascades, a skier needs to minimize weight in order to negotiate the terrain. This means that a party is unlikely to carry enough foodto finish their route if theyhave to wait out a storm.This has led toa style of travelbest described as "blitz skiing." The party waits in town for a breakin the weather, continuously rearrangingvacation schedules and bankingextra work hours. As soon as the weather breaks, they bolt for the mountains, packing as many peaksand ski runs into the tripas possiblebefore collapsing at their cars at the end of the traverse. Gary Brill, Mark Hutson,Kerry Ritland, and I usedthis approachto ski the Ptarmigan in June, 1982. After each lunch or dinner stop we'd scramble up another summit or takeanother ski run, eventually climb­ ing four peaksand skiing four glaciersin a quick three-daytrip. When the weather unexpectedly held, Brill headed straight out again with Brian Sullivan and JoeCatellani.Theyspentfivedaysskiingthe Dakobed Range from Glacier Peak to Clark Mtn., carving turnsin their shorts while Puget Soundwas baking in the 90s. In March 1983, Brill, Sullivan, Hutson,and I skied fromSnowfield Peak to Eldorado by traversing around Isolation Peak and climbing onto BackboneRidge.The '1solation Traverse" pointedout the disad­ vantages of settingout too early. Short days, soft snow,and unsettled weather make March and April trips problematic. We spent a day tentboundin a storm beforehurrying toward the CascadeRiver on our fifthday out. EldoradoPeak has beena ski mountaineeringdestination for many years. Onlyrecently, however,have skiers venturedfar fromthe peak onto the surrounding icefields. Brian Sullivan and Greg Jacobsen 34 TheMountaineer

Mt. Fury in thePicket Ran ge CarlSkoog High Skiing 35 exploredthe region NE of Eldorado when they skied the "Inspiration High Route" to Primus Peak in May 1984.John Ditli and Jeff Oark visitedthe SW highcountry when they skiedthe Triad High Route from Hidden LakePeak to Eldorado in July 1986.Finally, my brotherCarland I exploredthe NW comerof the region in June 1990 when we skiedfrom Little Devil Peakto Eldorado via BackboneRid ge. This area is seldom visited. Of the three"Backbones" we climbedalong the way, only one had a register and ours was only thefourth entry. The experience gained on these trips led to bolder and more ambitiousplans, culminatingin May 1985 with a traverseof the Picket Range.MybrotherCarl,JensKuljurgis,andlskied fromHanneganPass to Whatcom Pass, then plungedinto the Pickets, crossingthe Luna and McMillan cirques and following Stetattle Ridge to the town of Diablo. Along the way we had to scurry underneath ice cliffs, kick off ava­ lanchesand ski down their paths, and rappelwith full packs toget from oneski slopeto thenext.Wewerenearlytrapped highonMt.Furywhen clouds closedin belowus, blottingoutourescaperoutes. Itwasa six-day ski tripwith all the intensity of a seriousalpine climb. Less nerve-wracking, but just as scenic, was the "Thunder High Route" from Fisher Peak to Eldorado Peakacross the headwaters of Thunder Creek.Jens Kuljurgis, Dan Nordstromand I skiedthis route over five days in May 1987. On the third day, we had a spectacularview of the north faceof Mt. Goode as we skiedup the DouglasGlacier and nearly over the top of Mt. Logan. We continued via the Boston and Forbidden glaciers and skied across still-frozen Moraine Lakebefore reaching Eldorado. Over time, the planning of thesetrips was refined to ascience. By plotting the length and elevationgain of each route against the timeit took, I came up with a formulathat I could useto predict future trips. For example, a traverse that was 60 miles long with 20,000 feet of climbing should take 7 days, according to the formula. That was an average, of course.We were curious what mightbe possible by varying the style and goals of a trip. In June 1988, my brother Carl and I skied the Ptarmigan Traverse in about 21 hours by skipping summit and ski detours and traveling light. The feeling of freedom and continuous motionmade us almost forget our tirednessat the end of the day. 1989 was the busiest year, when four traverses where done in a singlespring. In early May, Brian Sullivan, my brother Carl, and I skied the Buckindy Traverse fromGreen Mtn. toSnowking Mtn. Although most of it was reasonable ski terrain, this route had a trouble spot at Kindy-Buck Pass. We rappelled over a wall of cornices into a steep avalanche basin at the head of Kindy Creek. We had some nervous skiing until we could get out of shootingran geof thosecornices. The trip tookthree days. 36 TheMountaine er A month later, Brian, Carl, Joe Catellani, Jens Kuljurgisand I skied the Bailey Range Traversefrom the Soleduck River to Mt. Olympus in fivedays. The high pointof this trip was thebeautiful and exposed crest between Mt. Ferry and Bear Pass. We also made a ski ascent of Mt. Olympus itself. While our party was in the Olympics, John Ditli and ScottCro ll, backcountryrangers out of Marblemount, skied one of the most remote sectionsof the North Cascades.They startedat Anderson Lakes, skied over Bacon Peak to Mt. Blum, thenacross" Mystery Ridge" to Jasper Pass, continuing to Mt. Challenger. Originally planning to follow Easy Ridge to Hannegan Pass, they changed their destinationto Ross Lake via Little Beaver Creekwhen the weather threatened. Fortu­ nately, their Park Serviceconnections he lped them catch a boatback to civilization. Ditli, a Californianative, said thatthis six day trip wasmore strenuous and committingthan any he had done in the Sierras. Finally, in mid-June my brother Carl and I skied the "Suiattle High Route". This six day triptraversed from Sulphur Mtn. to Canyon Lake, then passed Image Lakeand Miners Ridge on the way to ymaL n Lake basin. We skied and scrambled over the top of Chiwawa Mtn.,high around Fortress,then over High Passto the Dakobed Range and Glacier Peak. A ski descentfrom Glacier's summit would have iced the trip,but it was foiled when a rainstorm chased us down from Disappointment Peak. TheFutur e The North Cascadetraverses described here form a nearly continu­ ous high route fromGl acier Peak to the Canadian Border.There are a few gaps remaining,parti cularlytheChilliwackregionnorthofWhatcom Pass and the"Hanging Gardens" between Dome Peak and Bannock Mtn.The section from Cascade Pass to Eldorado was probably skied many years ago. Severalof the established high routes have variationsto expl ore. The ThunderHigh Route could bevaried from Mt. Logan to CascadePass by skiing through Park Creek Pass and around the south side of Mt. Buckner. The party that made the first winter ascents of Mounts Triumph and Despair in 1986 skied as far as Despair, but no farther. There is an interesting section around Mt. Despair that needs to be sorted out beforeone can connect up with Mystery Ridge. A party with adequate time and weather should try following Easy Ridge to ap­ proach or exit from the Pickets. All of these areestab lished backpacking routes, but they are sure to becha llenging when traversed on skis. The Ptarmigan Traverse is the most suitable route for one-day "sprints",but there may beother candidates. Several of the routes could bedone as fast overnighttrips. High Skiing 37 So far, thesetraverses have always been limitedto a week or less. This is a practical limit due to the narrow weather windows and the difficulty of skiing rugged terrain with heavy packs. The greatest adventure awaits a party who is willing to pack in caches in Autumn so that a traversecan beextended to severalweeks. Fa naticalskiers could try the routes in mid-winter. Whatever the future may hold, there is great opportunity for personal discoveryin hi gh skiing. Long traversesare just the broadest brush strokes across the canvas of the mountains. There are endless details to fill in- bowls to ski, ridges to run, glaciers to explore. The mountains will never be skied out-with every snowfall the canvas is wiped clean.

DouglasGlacie r-Mt. Logan Lowell Skoog 38 TheMountain eer

NORTH CA.&C"-.DES

WASHINGTON

5 6s OLYMPICS High Skiing 39

A 8onGn1Q Pk.

'° zo MILES s-_=-c:::a•o ==::::is•--11:===•'5"...,_1111 NORT H CASC ADES 40 TheMountaineer Washington's Highest Mountains and Steepest Faces

Stephen Fry

Washington's highest mountains and steepest faces have long fascinated mountaineersandanyone who has witnessed theirbeautiful and imposing presence. Yet despite the widespread interest in lofty summitsand sheerwall s, theselandforms have never beenadequately quantifiedby any major publication. Defining a Mountain The determinationof the highest mountainsin Washington, or any region, depends upon how one defines a mountain. After reviewing thousandsof maps and landforms in Washington, North America and around the world, in addition to obtaining a wealth of field observa­ tions, I formulated a sound mountain classification system that is applicable any place on earth. Elevation, local relief and prominence arethe main parameters I use to establish what constitutes a mountain. Based upon prominence, I separatemountains into threemain categories: minor, sub-major and major mountains. A minor mountain has 250-599 feet prominence above the lowest pass separating it from a higher mountain (i.e. ridge level). Sub-majormountainshave600-999feet prominence , while major mountains equal or exceed 1000 feetof prominence aboveridge level. Mountains with at least 5000 feetprominence may be termed ultra­ major mountains. Mountainsmust also riseat least 1500 feet above sea level (to exclude seamounts)and have two separate sides which drop 1500 feetin five or less horizontal miles. 100 Highest Mountains Three separate tables of Washington's 100 highest mountains are supplied in this article, using prominence criterionof 500,1000 and2000 feet. Every peak in Table 1 is located in theCascad es, withmost being situated in the North Cascades. Therefore, this tabulationlacks geo­ graphic diversity, but nevertheless captures a greater percentage of Washington' sespeciallyhigh peaks. Table2 is the listingof Washington's 100 highest major mountains. By definition, major mountains are significant peaks, usually being the zenith in their local area. Most of thesepeaks achieve 1000feet prominence along all of theirridges rather abruptly. Finally, Table 3 highlights a number of mountains that are either outstanding peaks and/or the highest massifs in their local regions. 80 of the mountainsare located in the Cascades, 13 in northeast­ ernWashington , 6 in the Olympics and 1 (OregonButte) representsthe Highest Mountains and SteepestFaces 41 Blue Mountains of southeastern Washington. The severe prominence requirement for Table 3 excludesmany notable peaks (e.g. Mount Logan, MountTerrotand Mount Constance).Furthermore, several of thequalify­ ing peaksdo notachieve 200)feet prominence along all of theirradiating ridgeswithin any discernibledistance. Methodology Current United States Geological Survey (USGS) 7.5 -minute (1 :24,000)topographic maps were examined to determine which peaks should be includedin the high mountain tables.Many of theelevations utilizedare new (e.g. Mount Baker,Fortress Mountain, Buck Mountain and Mount Olympus) because the USGS has just finished mapping Washington state at the 7.5-minute scale,replacing the older 15-minute (1:62,000)quadrangles. I've substitutedmap elevationswith altitudes based uponfield observations(e.g. Cashmere Mountain), becausethe USGS doesn't always place an elevation stationat the truesum mit of a mountain, and because some mapcontours are in error. Several mountains have two summitsof very similar height, e.g. Raven Ridge, Cardinal Peak and EnchantmentPeaks. Oimbersclaim that the maps in thesecases are eithererr oneousor inconclusive. The elevationsI've assigned to theselandforms detail my currentjudgment on these altitude quandaries. Comparisons Topping any list of Washington's highest peaks is the 14,410-foot volcano, Mount Rainier. (The recent 14,411-footmeasuremen t for the mountain is not recognizedby the U .S.G.S.) No other peak in our state comesclose to Rainier in height, riseabove base, glacier area, glacier length or prominence. In fact, according to my measurements,Rainier riseshigher aboveit's baseand is greater than six timeslarger than either Mount Everest or K2, the world's two highest mountains. (Rainier, Everestand K2 rise12,7 40, 12,066and 11,945 feetabove their bases,and have volumes of 116, 18.8 and 15.6 cubic miles, respectively,according to my measuring methods and calculations. See my Jan-Feb Summit articlefor more deta ils). Nevertheless,the Himalayanpeaks aren't totally outdone. Everest's29 ,()28-foot crestismorethantwice aselevatedasRainier. In the United States, Alaska's Mount McKinley (20,320 feet) is the . altitude king, while Rainier only qualifies as the 21st tallest major mountain.However, in the Lower48 states,Washington's pride and joy is just surpassed by California's Mount Whitney (14,491 feet), and Colorado's Mount Elbert(1 4,433 feet),Mount Massive (14,421 feet), and Mount Harvard (14,420 feet). If a measly 82 feetwere added to Rainier's top, it would bethe reigning peakin the conterminous U.S .. Mount Adams, Mount Baker and Glacier Peak are the other high Cascade volcanoes, which play second fiddle to Rainier, but are still 42 The Mountaineer massi ve and dominating. Mount St. Helens fprmerly was the fifth highestmajormountainin Washington, with a formerelev ationof 9 ,677 feet. Unfortunately the infamous May 18th, 1980 volcani c eruption sheared -off 1,312 fee t of St. Helens top-dramatically changing its stature.Con sequently,Mt. St. Helensdro pped from 5th to 50th place,in the ranki ngs of Wa shi ngton's highe st majormount ains (Table 2). A vast majority of Washi ngton's remainin g high mountainsare nonvolcanicin na ture (exceptionsin clude Rainier appendages-Liberty Cap and Little Tahoma Peak,Baker' s satellite - LincolnPeak , Curti s­ Gi lber t Peak (Goat Rocks), Lemei Rock and India n Rock (Simcoe Mountain)). None of the nonvolca ni c peaksex ceed 10,000fee t, and only ni ne break the9 ,()()()-foot barrier inTable 1 (BonanzaPeak is the talles t, at9,511 feet). AlthoughWa shington' s nonvolcani c mountains do not rea ch note­ worthy elevation s, even by U.S. standard s, the se la ndforms are sti ll nothingto sneezeat . Ma ny of the nonvolcanic peakssuc h as Eldorado, Mount Olympus, and Mount Sh uksan,are much more glacia ted than any peak outside of Washington in the Lower 48 State s. And these rugged peaks also fea ture steeper fa ces and grea ter ri seabo ve ba se (RAB), on the average,tha n the sky-scraping mountai ns of Colorad o (e.g. the RABof Mount Olympus is6, 914 fee t, while Colorado' s Mount Elbertca n on ly muster 5,333 feet). All of the nonvolcan ic mountai n's summits are composed of either meta morphic.orgra niticrock, ac cordi ng to my review of geologicmaps of thefirst50mountainsinTable2.None of these elevated crestsconsist of unaltered sedimentaryroc ks. Unmetamorphosedsedi me ntary rocks do occur very ne ar the summits of severa l lofty peaks,but appare ntly these sedimentary rocks are moreea si ly eroded,thereby resulti ng in their absence atop Washi ngton's elite highpeak s. A separate evaluation of the top 100mo untainsin Table 2, sh ow s thata majority of the la ndforms are loca ted east of the north-south mid li ne that bisects the Cascades.Without do ing further research , it appears thatthi s easterly bias isdu e to the effects of differi ng rock ty pe, geologi c uplift and I or cli mate. aim.bing A plentifulnumber of the peaksin Tab les 1-3 offer relati ve ly easy ascents(e .g. Ma ude, Oval, St. Helens, Tiffany and Sheep).Yet danger­ ous weather conditions and climbi ng errors ca n make even the se mountains deadly. Some of the more difficult peaks to surmount include Goode, Mox Peaks - E Pk.*, Tupshi n, Fury , American Border Peak and Chimney Rock. Rainier may also belongin this la tter li st, becauseof itsdea th-dealing storms, glaciers and altitude. Anyone who attemptsto cli mb any of thesepeak s sh ould bepr operly equippedan d trained in safe moun tain travel. Because of the inherent hazards of Highest Mountainsand Steepest Faces 43 scalingal l of these mountains, I hereby warn climbers tothink twice before turning Tables 1-3 into "must-d o" lists. Warnin gsas ide, severa l alpinists consideredthe grave ri sk s, and then relentlessly conquer edmost of Washington' s highestla ndforms. John Roperhas scaledeve ry Table 1 peak,and al l but a fewof theTable 2 mountains. Russ Kroeker, Bruce Gibbs,Bob Tillotson, Betty Felton, John Lixvar, Silas Wild, Dick Kegelan d Joe Vance ha ve rompleted Lixvar' s top 100list (as did Roper)an d are dose to completionof Tables 1 and 2. Indo sing this section of thearticle, I wa nt to tha nk JohnRo perand Gra nt Myers for reviewing my mountain tables for accuracyan d content. Their comme�ts helpedrefine peak na mes,ele vations andthe format.Al so, I greatly apprecia te Pr ofessor Joe Va nce'scritic alrev iew of my compiledgeo logi c information for Wa shington's highestmoun­ ta ins.

Mt. Index, e"levation5,991 ', is the90th hi.ghest mountain in Washington, with 2,000' prominence. notabMore ly, Index fealures two ofthe three steepestfaces in the stale in 0.1 mile. 44 TheMountaineer Washington's Steepest Mountain Faces Ever since my first neck-stretching views of Mount Index from Stevens Pass Highway over 25 yearsago, I've beenintrigued with steep mountain faces.In 1972, the glaciated Cascadesand Olympicsprovided an ideal area to study such a topic, and in timemy research expanded to encompass the world. To quantifysteepness I simply usetopographic maps and a caliper or ruler. Then I typically measure the maximum vertical drop (MVD) within the horizontal distances of 0.1 and 1.0 miles. The steepest span oftentimes does not begin at the summit, nor do Washington's higher peakshave a monopolyon the most precipitousfaces. The map scalefor all Washington measurementsis 1 :24,000(i.e. USGS7 5 minute quads). The faceslisted in Tables 4 and 5 are distinctlyseparate faces. All measurements are probably accurate within 2.5 contours (100 feet). However, the mapping accuracy of Mount Index's W face (Table 5) is unknown. Washingtonians can stand proud, knowing that Davis Peak, WhitehorseMountain and Johannesburg Mountain, (Table 4) contain the threesteepest vertical drops in one mile in the conterminous U.S .. Nevertheless,Mount McKinley's S face, Mount Everest's SW faceand GurjaPeak's S face (near Dhaulagiri) easily dwarf Washington's slopes, by featuring MVDs in 1.0 miles of 7,050, 6,627 and 10,100feet, respec­ tively. The MVD in 0.1 miles data for Washington arealso competitive. Although not in the sameleague as El Capitan's 2,900-footdrop in 0.1 miles, the sheerfaces of Index and Baring (Table 5) comparefavorable with other precipitous wallson earth. Taking into account thatdetailed contoured maps are unavailable for many portions of the world's mo�ntains, the greatest MVD in 0.1 miles that I've measured is 3,000 feet +, on AnnapurnaI.

Mt. Olympus AnnMarshall Highest Mountains and SteepestFaces 45

"ChiliwackPea k" (aka "Mt. Custer") 8,630', North Cascades Stephen Fty National Park, the 29th highest major mountain.

Surpri singly, few, if any, of the Table 5 faces are composed of granite. The much more common rock typeis fine-grained hornfels. Hornfels is typically created when a molten granitic body intrudes and bakes sedimentary,metamorphic, or igneous rock s. Unfortunately for climbers,hornfelsis very brittle,making for dangerou s, unprotectable climbing. Therefore, none of the steepest lines have been climbed, although peripheral sections of some face s, including thoseon Baring, Booker and Index, have been scaled. The pro spects forcl imbing the Table 4 facesare better,because the rockis us ually not soover whelmingly steep.Nonetheless, these slopes should not be attempted by anyone other than expert climbers, who understand the graveri sks. Perhaps the mo st noteworthyascent of a Table 4 face, was by Dalla s Kloke and Bryce Simon, in 1976, when they climbed the NE face of Davi s Peak. Although their route was not derti ssimo, theydid surmount all the difficulties,i.e. the waterfall cliffs, chaoticglacier and final 2000-foot wall. 46 TheMountaineer Ta ble 1: Washington's Highest Mountains with � 500 Feet ProminenceAbove Ridge-Level As determinedby Stephen Fry, from current U.S.G.S topographic maps Rank Name Height (ft) Location USGS Quadrangle

1 MountRainier 14410 Ml Rainier NP Mt. Rainier West 2 Mount Adams 12276 Ml Adams Wild.@ Mount Adams East 3 Little Tahoma Peak 11138 Mt. Rainier NP Mt. Rainier East 4 Mount Baker 10781 Mount Baker Wild. Mount Baker 5 GlacierPeak 10540# Glacier Peak Wild. GlacierPeak East 6 BonanzaPeak 9511 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 7 MountStuart 9415 Alpine Lakes Wild. Mount Stuart 8 MountFernow 9249 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 9 GoodeMountain 922ot' North CascadesNP Goode Mountain 10 MountShuksan 9131 North CascadesNP Mount Shuksan 11 Buckner Mountain 9115& North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 12 Lincoln Peak 910ot' Mount Baker Wild. Mount Baker 13 Mount Logan 9087 North Cascades NP Mount Logan 14 Jack Mountain 9066 Pasayten Wild. Jack Mountain 15 Mount Maude 9060* Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 16 Mount Spickard 8979 North Cascades NP Mount Spickard 17 Black Peak 8970 North Cascades � Mount Arriva 18 Mount Redoubt 8969 North Cascades NP Mount Redoubt 19 Copper Peak0 8964 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 20 North Gardner Mtn 8956 Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 21 Dome Peak 8940* Glacier Peak Wild. Dome Peak 22 GardnerMountain 8898 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild.@ Mazama 23 BostonPeak 8894 North CascadesNP CascadePass 24 Eldorado Peak 888Q& North CascadesNP Eldorado Peak 25 Silver StarMountain 8876 Okanogan NF Silver Star Mtn. 26 Dragontail Peak 8860* Alpine LakesWild. EnchantmentLakes 27 Forbidden Peak 8815 North CascadesNP Forbidden Peak 28 Mesahchie Peak 8795 North CascadesNP. Mount Logan 28 Oval Peak 8795 L. ChelanSawtooth Wild. Oval Peak 30 Fortress Mountain 87801' Glacier Peak Wild. Suiattle Pass 31 Mount Lago 8745 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 32 RobinsonMountain 8726 Pasayten Wild. Robinson Mountain 33 Colchuck Peak 8705 Alpine Lakes Wild. EnchantmentLakes 34 Star Peak 8690 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Oval Peak 35 Remmel Mountain 8685 Pasayten Wild. Remmel Mountain 36 Cannon Mountain 8638 Alpine Lakes Wild. Cashmere Mountain 37 Chilliwack Peak• 8630 North CascadesNP Mount Spickard 38 Kimtah Peak 862ot' North Cascades NP Mount Logan 39 Ptarmigan Peak 8614 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 40 ClarkMountain 8602 Glacier Peak Wild. Oark Mountain 41 CathedralPeak 8601 Pasayten Wild. Remmel Mountain 42 Mount Carro 8595 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 43 Monument Peak 8592 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 44 Cardinal Peak 8590 Wenatchee NF Pyramid Mountain 45 Osceola Peak. 8587 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 46 Raven Ridge 8580 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Martin Peak 47 Buck Mountain 8540* GlacierPeak Wild. Oark Mountain 47 WestEnchantment Pks •o 8540* Alpine Lakes Wild. EnchantmentLakes 47 Storm King 8540* North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 50 Cashmere Mountain 852o& Alpine Lakes Wild. CashmereMountain 51 Reynolds Peak 8512 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild.@ Sun Mountain 52 Primus Peak 8508 North Cascades NP Forbidden Peak 53 Mox Peaks, E Pk• 8504 North CascadesNP Mount Redoubt 54 Martin Peak 850ot' GlacierPeak Wild. Holden 55 KlawattiPeak 8485 North CascadesNP Forbidden Peak 56 Big Craggy Peak 3475& Okanogan NF Billy Goat Mtn. 57 Lost Peak 8464 Pasayten Wild. Lost Peak 58 DoradoNeedle 846ot' North Cascades NP Eldorado Peak HighestMountains and SteepestFaces 47

58 Mount Bigelow 8460" Okanogan NF Martin Peak 58 Sinister Peak 8460" GlacierPeak Wild. Dome Peak 61 Chiwawa Mountain 8459 GlacierPeak Wild. Suiattle Pass 62 Argonaut Peak 8453 Alpine Lakes Wild. Enchantment Lakes 63 Tower Mountain 8444 Okanogan NF WashingtonPass Emerald Peak 8422 WenatcheeNfO SaskaPeak 65 Dumbell Mountain 8421 GlacierPeak Wild. Holden 66 Azurite Peale 842()# Okanogan NF AzuritePeak 66 Luahna Peak• 542()# GlacierPeak Wild. OarlcMountain 66 Pinnacle Mountain 842()# Glacier Peak Wild. Pinnacle Mountain 69 Dumbell Mtn, NE Pk• 8415 GlacierPeak Wild. Holden 70 MoxPeaks, W Pk• 8407 North CascadesNP MountRedoubt 71 Saska Peak 8404 WenatcheeNfO SaskaPeak 72 Courtney Peak 8.392 Glacier Peak Wild. Oval Peak 72 Sou th Spectacle Butte 8.392 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 74 DevorePeak 838()11 GlacierPeak Wild. MountLyall 75 Martin Peak 8375 Okanogan NfO Martin Peak 76 Lake Mountain 8371 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 77 Golden Hom 8366 Okanogan NF Washington Pass 77 West Craggy 8366 Pasayten Wild.@ Billy GoatMtn. 79 Mt. Saint Helens 8365 Mt. St. Helens N. V. M Mount St.Helens 80 MDiablo Dam 83 Big Snagtooth• 834oH Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 83 Mount Ballard 834o& Okanogan NF AzuritePeak 83 Tupshin Peak 834oH GlacierPeak Wild. Stehekin 86 Windy Peak 8334 Pasayten Wild. HorseshoeBasin 87 Cosho Peak0 8332 North Cascades NP Mount Logan 88 Mount Formidable 8325 Glacier Peak Wild. CascadePass 89 Abernathy Peak 8321 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Gilbert 90 BoraMountain 8320 GlacierPeak Wild. PinnacleMountain 91 Luna Peak 8311 North CascadesNP MountChallenger 92 Castle Peak 8306 Pasayten Wild. Castle Peak 93 Andrew Peak. 8301 Pasayten Wild. Remmel Mountain 94 Big Kangaroo 830CJII Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 94 BookerMountain 830CJII North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 94 Mount Fury 830CJII North CascadesNP Mount Challenger 94 Spider Mountain 830o* GlacierPeak Wild. Cascade Pass 94 Wy' F.astMountain• 830CJII GlacierPeak Wild. MountLyall 99 ApexMountain 8297 Pasayten Wild. RemmelMountain 100 The Temple 8292 Alpine Lakes Wild. EnchantmentLakes Footnotes andabbreviations for Tables 1, 2 & 3: NP = Nationalpark; NF = NationalForest; Wild. = Wilderness; N.V .M. = NationalVolcanic Monument;N. Rec. Area = National Recreation Area; Res. = Reservation; WS Dept.of N.R = Washington State DepartmentNatural of Resources @ These mountains arelocated on the boundary of morethan one land managementregion, only one of the regions is listed. # Heightis a closeestimate, ± 20 feet. & Field estimate. A higher point on the mountain in question was found, than that shownon current usestopographic maps (except for NativePeak•, Table 2. Native Peak's '794S-ft NE top is higherthan its mis-<:ontoured SW top). • Unofficial name. O Mountain in question satisfiespro minencecriterion by lessthan one contour (i.e.by <40 feet). Notes Table 1 Table 1 close calls: Liberty Cap, 14,112 feet, (prominence = 492 ±20 feet), usesQuad: Mt. Rainier West. Also-ranf 101 Sheep Mountain, 8274.Pasayten Wilderness, Ashnola Mountain; 102 Pauper O Peak , 8270, Okanogan National Forest, MartinPeak; 103 Buttermilk Ridge, trlf,7,Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness, Oval Peak; 104 SpirePoint, 8264, GlacierPeak Wilderness, Dome Peak; and 105 Sentinel Peak. 8261, GlacierPeak Wilderness, Dome Peak. 48 TheMountaineer Ta ble 2: Washington's Highest Mountains with > 1000 FeetPr ominenceAbove Ridge-Level As determined by Stephen Fry, from current U.S.G.S topographic maps Rank Name Height (ft) Location USGSQuadrangle 1 Mount Rainier 14410 Mt. Rainier NP Mt. Rainier West 2 Mount Adams 12276 Mt. Adams Wild.@ Mount Adams F.ast 3 Mount Baker 10781 Mount Baker Wild. Mount Baker 4 Glacier Peak 10540# Glacier Peak Wild. GlacierPeak East 5 Bonanza Peak 9511 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 6 Mount Stuart 9415 Alpine Lakes Wild. Mount Stuart 7 Mount Fernow 9249 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 8 Goode Mountain 922o" North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 9 Mount Shuksan 9131 North CascadesNP Mount Shuksan 10 Buckner Mountain 9115& North Cascades NP Goode Mountain 11 MountLogan 9087 North Cascades NP Mount Logan 12 Jack Mountain 9066 Pasayten Wild. Jack Mountain 13 Mount Spickard 8979 North CascadesNP MountSpickard 14 Black Peak 8970 North Cascades� Mount Arriva 15 Mount Redoubt 8969 North Cascades NP Mount Redoubt 16 North Gardner Mtn 8956 Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 17 Dome Peak 894d' GlacierPeak Wild. DomePeak 18 Eldorado Peak 888o& North CascadesNP Eldorado Peak 19 SilverStar Mountain 8876 Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 20 Dragontail Peak 886o" Alpine Lakes Wild. EnchantmentLakes 21 Forbidden Peak 8815 North Cascades NP ForbiddenPeak 22 Mesahchie Peak 8795 North CascadesNP. Mount Logan Oval Peak 8795 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Oval Peak 24 Fortress Mountain 878o" Glacier Peak Wild. Suiattle Pass 25 Mount Lago 8745 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 26 Robinson Mountain 8726 Pasayten Wild. RobinsonMountain 27 Star Peak 8690 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Oval Peak 28 Remmel Mountain 8685 Pasayten Wild. Remmel Mountain 29 Chilliwack Peak• 86.30 North CascadesNP Mount Spickard Kimtah Peak 862o" North CascadesNP Mount Logan 31 Oark Mountain 8602 Glacier Peak Wild. Oark Mountain 32 Monument Peak 8592 PasaytenWild. Mount Lago 33 Cardinal Peak 8590 Wenatchee NF Pyramid Mountain Osceola Pe� 8587 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago Raven Ridge 8580 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Martin Peak 36 Buck Mountain 854o" Glacier Peak Wild. Oark Mountain 37 Cashmere Mountain 8520& Alpine Lakes Wild. Cashmere Mountain 38 Reynolds Peak 8512 L. Chelan SawtoothWil d.@ Sun Mountain 39 Martin Peak BSOo" Glacier Peak Wild. Hplden 40 Big Craggy Peak 8475& Okanogan NF Billy Goat Mtn. 41 Lost Peak 8464 Pasayten Wild. Lost Peak 42 Chiwawa Mountain 8459 Glacier PeakWild. Suiattle Pass 43 Tower Mountain 8444 Okanogan NF Washington Pass Dumbell Mountain 8421 Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 45 Azurite Peak 842o" Okanogan NF Azurite Peak 45 Pinnacle Mountain 842o" Glacier Peak Wild. Pinnacle Mountain 47 South Spectacle Butte 8392 GlacierPeak Wild. Holden 48 Devore Peak 838o" GlacierPeak Wild. Mount Lyall 49 Golden Hom 8366 Okanogan NF Washington Pass 50 Mt. Saint Helens 8365 Mt. St. Helens N. V. M. Mount St. Helens 51 McOellanPeak 8364 Alpine Lakes Wild. EnchantmentLakes 52 Snowfield Peak 8347 North Cascades NP Diablo Dam 53 Tupshin Peak 8340# Glacier Peak Wild. Stehekin 54 Windy Peak 8334 Pasayten Wild. HorseshoeBasin 55 Mount Formidable 8325 Glacier Peak Wild. Cascade Pass Highest Mountains and SteepestFaces 49 56 FloraMountain 8320 Glacier Peak Wild. Pinnacle Mountain 57 Luna Peak 8311 North CascadesNP MountOiallenger 58 CastlePeak 8306 Pasayten Wild. Castle Peak 59 Andrew Peak 8301 Pasayten Wild. Remmel Mountain 60 Big Kangaroo• 830()11 Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 60 Booker Mountain 830()11 North Cascades NP GoodeMountain 60 Mount Fury 830CJII North CascadesNP Mount Oiallenger 63 Sheep Mountain 8274 Pasayten Wild. Ashnola Mountain 64 Sentinel Peak 8261 Glacier Peak Wild. Dome Peak 65 Tiffany Mountain 8245 Okanogan NF Tiffany Mountain 66 Pyramid Mountain° 8243 Wenatchee NF Pyramid Mountain 67 Johannesburg Mtn 822CJII North Cascades � Cascade Pass 67 Riddle Peaks 822CJII GlacierPeak Wild.@ Pinnacle Mountain 69 Mount Arriva 8215 North CascadesNP Mount Arriva 70 Gilbert Pk - Goat Rocks 8184 Goat Rocks Wild.@ Walupt Lake 71 The Needles 8170 Okanogan NF Washington Pass 72 Fool Hen Mtn• 8168 PasaytenWild. Billy Goat Mtn. 73 Mount Terror 8151 North CascadesNP Mount Oiallenger 74 PeepsightMountain ° 8146 PasaytenWild. Remmel Mountain 75 SunrisePeak 8144 PasaytenWild. Sweetgrass Butte 76 Grandfather Mountain• 8142 L. Chelan N. Rec. Area@ Gilbert 77 Crater Mountain 8128 PasaytenWild. Crater Mountain 78 McGregorMountain 8122 L. Chelan N. Rec. Area@ McGregorMountain 79 AgnesMountain 8115 Glacier Peak Wild. AgnesMountain 80 Big ChiwaukumMtn• 810()11 Alpine Lakes Wild. Chiwaukum Mtns 80 Mount Hardy 810()11 Okanogan NF Mount Arriva 82 NapeequaPeak • 8073 GlacierPeak Wild. Oark Mountain 83 Hozomeen Mountain 8066 Ross Lake N. Rec. Area@ HozomeenMountain 84 Cutthroat Peak 8050 Okanogan NF Washington Pass 85 Bauerman Ridge 8044 PasaytenWild. Bauerman Ridge 86 GilbertMountain 8023 L. Chelan SawtoothWild. Gilbert 87 Hozomeen Mtn, S. Pk• 8003 Ross Lake N. Rec. Area@ SkagitPeak 88 American BorderPeak 7994 Mt. Baker Wild. Mount Larabee 89 Mount Daniel 7980* Alpine Lakes Wild. Mount Daniel 90 Mount Olympu� 7969 Olympic NP Mount Olympus 91 Graybeard Peak O 796.5 North Cascades� Mount Arriva 92 SkepticalButte •o 7949 PasaytenWild. Ashnola Pass 93 Native Peak•o 7945& Glacier Peak Wild. Oark Mountain 94 Indecision Peak• o 7945 North CascadesNP Mount Arriva 95 GabrielPeak 794()11 North Cascades� Crater Mountain 95 Three FoolsPeak 794()11 PasaytenWild: Castle Peak 97 Bald Mountain 7931 PasaytenWild. Ashnola Pass 97 BearMountain 7931 North Cascades NP Mount Redoubt 99 Heather Ridg� 7928 GlacierPeak Wild. Mount Lyall 100 Outpost Peak 7910 North Cascades NP Mount Logan Notes Table 2 Table 2 dose calls: Cathedral Peak, 8601 feet, (prominence = 981±20 feet), uses Quad: Remmel Mountain; ApexMountain, 82"17 feet,(prominence = 997± 20 feet),uses Quad: Remmel Mountain; Wolframite Mountain,8137 feet, (prominence = 996 ± 20 feet), uses Quad: Remmel Mountain;and Mount Rolo, 8096feet, (prominence = 996 ±20feet), uses Quad: Mount Lago. Also-rans:101 Cousin Peak·, 7905, Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness,Gilbert; 102 Bowan 0 Mountain, 7895, Lake Oielan Ntl. Rec. Area, McAlester Mtn.;103 Mount Lyall , 7892, GlacierPeak Wilderness, Mount Lyall; 104 Chopaka Mountain, 7882, W.S. Dept. of Natural Resources,Hurley Peak; 105 Plummer Mountain, 7870, GlacierPeak Wilderness,Suiattle 0 Pass; 106 Mount Larabee , 7861, Mount Baker Wilderness,Mount Larabee; 107 Mount Winthrop, 7850, Pasayten Wilderness,Castle Peak; 107 Pasayten Peak, 7850, Pasayten Wilderness,Pasayten Peak; lil9Old Baldy, 7844, Okanogan NationalForest, Old Baldy; and 110 Tarnished Mountain , 7840,Okanogan National Forest @ , McAlester Mtn. 50 TheMountaineer Ta ble 3: Washington's Highest Mountains with � 2000 FeetPr ominenceAbove Ridge-Level As determined by Stephen Fry, from current U.S.G.S topographic maps Rank Name Height (ft) location USGSQuadrangle 1 Mount Rainier 14410 Mt. Rainier NP Mt. Rainier West 2 Mount Adams 12276 Mt. Adams Wild.@ Mount Adams East 3 Mount Baker 10781 Mount Baker Wild. Mount Baker 4 GlacierPeak lCl.540 # Glacier Peak Wild. Glacier PeakEast 5 Bonanza Peak 9511 GlacierPeak Wild. Holden 6 Mount Stuart 9415 Alpine Lakes Wild. Mount Stuart 7 Mount Fernow 9249 Glader Peak Wild. Holden 8 GoodeMountain 922oH North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 9 Mount Shuksan 9131 North CascadesNP Mount Shuksan 10 Buckner Mountain 9115& North CascadesNP GoodeMountain 11 Jack Mountain 9066 Pasayten Wild. Jack Mountain 12 Mount Spickard 8979 North CascadesNP Mount Spickard 13 Black Peak 8970 North Cascades � Mount Arriva 14 North Gardner Mtn 8956 Okanogan NF Silver Star Mtn. 15 DomePeak 894oJI Glacier Peak Wild. Dome Peak 16 Eldorado Peak 888Q& North CascadesNP Eldorado Peak 17 Silver Star Mountain 8876 Okanogan NF SilverStar Mtn. 18 Mesahchie Peak 8795 North Cascades NP. Mount Logan 18 Oval Peak 8795 L. Chelan Sawtooth Wild. Oval Peak 20 Mount Lago 8745 Pasayten Wild. Mount Lago 21 Remmel Mountain 868.5 PasaytenWild. Remmel Mountain 22 Cardinal Peak 8590 WenatcheeNF Pyramid Mountain 23 Reynolds Peak 8512 L. Chelan SawtoothWild. @ Sun Mountain 24 Martin Peak BSOoJI Glacier Peak Wild. Holden 25 Big CraggyPeak 8475& Okanogan NF Billy Goat Mtn. 26 Tower Mountain 8444 Okanogan NF Washington Pass 27 Mt. Saint Helens 8365 Mt. St. Helens N. V. M. Mount St. Helens 28 Snowfield Peak 8347 North CascadesNP Diab lo Dam 29 Luna Peak% 831 1 North CascadesNP Mount Challenger 30 Castle Peak 8306 Pasayten Wild. Castle Peak 31 Sheep Mountain 8274 Pasayten Wild. Ashnola Mountain 32 Tiffany Mountain 8245 Okanogan NF Tiffany Mountain 33 Gilbert Pk - Goat Rocks 8184 Goat Rocks Wild.@ Walupt Lake @ 34 McGregor Mountain . 8122 L. Chelan N. Rec. Area McGregorMountain 35 Big Otlwaukum Mtn 810o# Alpine Lakes Wild. Chiwaukum Mtns 36 Hozomeen Mountain 8066 Ross Lake N. Rec. Area@ Hozomeen Mountain 37 American BorderPeak 7994 Mt. Baker Wild. Mount Larabee 38 Mount Daniel 798o# Alpine Lakes Wild. Mount Daniel 39 Mount Olympus 7969 Olympic NP Mount Ol ympus 40 Three FoolsPeak 794o# Pasayten Wild. Castle Peak 41 Sloan Peak 7835 Henry M. Jackson Wild. Sloan Peak 42 Mount Deception 7788 Olympic NP Mount Deception 43 Mount Aix 7766 William 0. DouglasWild. Bumping Lake 44 ElijaRidge 0 7739 NorthCascades NP Crater Mountain 45 Chimney Rock 76w& Alpine Lakes Wild. Big Snow Mtn. 46 Mount Blum 7680 North CascadesNP Mount Blum 47 Mount Prophet 7660 North CascadesNP Mount Prophet 48 Cinnamon Creek Peak• 7514 Pasayten Wild. Shull Mountan 49 The Cradle 7467 Alpine Lakes Wild. The Cradle 50 Mount Misch• 7435 Glacier Peak Wild.@ Downey Mountain 50 Tomyhoi Peak 7435 Mt. Baker Wild. Mount Larabee 52 Indian Head Peak 742()11 GlacierPeak Wild. GlacierPeak East 52 Mount David 7420 GlacierPeak Wild. Mount David 54 Ruby Mountain 7408 Ross Lake N. Rec. Area Ross Dam 55 Abercrombie Mountain 7308 Colville NF Abercrombie 56 Mount Bonaparte 7257 Okanogan NF Mount Bonaparte 57 MountPugh 7201 Glacier Peak Wild.@ Pugh Mountain HighestMountains and SteepestFaces 51 58 Copper Butte 7140 ColvilleNF CopperButte 59 Mount Howard 7063 WenatcheeNF Mount Howard 60 Bacon Peak 7061 North CascadesNP Bacon Peak 702o" Mt. Baker Wilder.@ Twin SistersMtn. 61 SouthTwin @ 62 CrystalMountain 6998 Crystal Mtn SkiArea White RiverPark 6.3 White Omck Mountain 6989 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF White Omck Mtn. 64 UnicornPeak 698o" Mt. Rainier NP TatooshLakes 65 Mission Peak 6tr76 Mission Ridge Ski Area@ Mission Peak 66 Whitehorse Mountain 686()11 Boulder River Wild. WhitehorseMtn: 67 Calispell Peak 68.55 Kaniksu Nftil Calispell Peak 68 Three Fingers 6850 Boulder River Wild. Whitehorse Mtn. 69 The Brothers 6842 Olympic � The Brothers 70 Mineral Mountain 682o" North CascadesNP Mount Blum 71 Hogback Mountain° 6789 Goat RocksWild. Old Snowy Mtn. 72 Molybdenite Mountain 6784 Colville NF ScotchmanLake 73 MosesMountain 6774 ColvilleIndian Res. MosesMountain 74 Jim Hill Mountain 6765 Alpine Lakes Wilder.@ Stevens Pass @ 75 Goat Mountain 662o" Alpine LakesWilder. Davis Peak 76 Mount Stone 6612 Mt.Skokomish Wild. Mount Skokomish 77 Del CampoPeak 6610 W.S. Dept. of N. R. Monte Gisto 78 Mount ElkLick 0 6517 Olympic NP Mount Steel 79 Oregon Butte 6.387 Wenaha-Tucannon Wild. Oregon Butte 80 Dirtyface Peak 626o" Wenatchee NF Lake Wenatchee 81 Mount Washington 6255 Olympic Nftil MountWashington 82 Gunn Peak 6240 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF Baring 83 North Baldy 6173 Kaniksu NF North Baldy 84 Baring Mountain 6125 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF Baring 85 Desolation Peak 6102 Ross Lake N. Rec. Area HozomeenMountain 86 Mount Wow 606o" Mount Rainier NP Mount Wow 87 Mount Annie 6055 Okanogan NF Mount Annie 88 Tunk Mountain 6053 Okanogan NF Tunk Mountain 89 Mount Forgotten 6005 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF Bedal 90 Mount Index 5991 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF Index 91 lllabot Peaks 5944 Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNF lllabot Peaks 92 Lemei Rock 5925 Indian Heaven Wild. Lone Butte 93 Red Mountain 590()# Wenatchee Nftil Polallie Ridge 94 Mount Spokane 5883 Mount Spokane SkiArea Mount Spokane 95 HuckleberryMtn. 5825 W.S.D. N. R. (NEWA) Stensgar Mountain 96 IndianRock 5823 YakimaIndian Res. Indian Rock 97 Old Dominion Mountain 5773 Colville NF Park Rapids 98 Gillette Mountain 5770 Colville NF Gillette Mountain 99 Liberty Mountain 570()# Boulder River Wild. WhitehorseMtn. 100 High Rock 5685 Gifford Pinchot NF Sawtooth Ridge Notes Table 3 % In Table 3: Mount Fury, elevation830o" (± 20 feet), may be higher than Luna Peak. U Fury is higher, then it would take Luna's place in the rankings. Table 3 close calls: Gabriel Peak, 7940# feet, (prominence = 1960± 40 feet), USGSQuad: Crater Mountain; Plummer Mountain, 7870 feet, (prominence = 1970 ± 20 feet), USGS Quad: Suiattle Pass; Mount Constance, 7756feet, (prominence = 1976 ±20 feet), USGSQuad: Mount Deception;and Mt Anderson,West Pk,7365 feet, (prominence = 1985±._20 feet), USGS Quad: Mount Steel. Also-rans: 101 Mount Spock•,562o", Colville NationalForest, Vulcan Mountain; 102 Silver Peak, 5605,Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNtl. Forest,Lost Lake; 103 BuckhornMountain, 5602, Okanogan National Forest, Buckhorn Mountain; 104 Helen Buttes,ssso", Diobsud Wilder­ ness@, Marblemount; lCl.5 Monumental Mountain, 5534, W.S. Dept. of Natural Resources, Ken try Ridge; 106 Snyder Hill, 5460#, Colville National Forest, MetalineFalls; 107 Purcell Mountain, 5442, GiffordPinchot National Forest, Purcell Mountain; 108 Goat Mountain, 5420#, Giffort Pinchot NationalForest, Spirit Lake East;109 Mount Lawson,5401, Olympic National Park, Mount Christie; 110 Round Mountain, 5340#, Mt. Baker-SnoqualmieNtl. Forest, Fortson; and 111 Mount Pilchuck,5324, Mount Pilchuck State Forest, Verlot. 52 TheMou ntaineer Table 4: Washington's Steepest Mountain Faces (in 1 horizontal mile) As determined by Stephen Fry, from current U.S.G.S topographicmaps Rank Name MVD in Face Elevation USGSQuadrangle 1.0 mile Span (ft.) (in feet) 1 Davis Peak 5381 NE (7051-1670) Diablo Dam 2 Whitehorse Mountain 5185 NNE (6560-1375) Whitehorse Mtn. 3 Johannesburg Mountain 5160 N (8220-3060) CascadePass 4 Luna Peak 5040 NNW (8280-3240) MountChallenger 5 Elephant Butte 4960 N (7380-2420) Mount Prophet 6 Hozomeen Mountain 4926 w (8066-3140) Hozomeen Mtn. 7 Colonial Peak 4901 N (7771-2870) Ross Dam 8 McMillan Spire 4892 N (7992-3100) Mount Challenger 9 Mount Rainier 4830 N (14080-9250) Mt. Rainier West+ 10 Hozomeen Mtn,S Pk• 4820 E (8000-3180) SkagitPeak 10 Jack Mountain 4820 NE (8380-3560) Jack Mountain 12 Colonial Peak 4816 SE (7771 -2955) Ross Dam 13 Snowfield Peak 4814 NE (7614-2800) Ross Dam@ @ 14 Chimney Peak 4812 SE (6917-2105) Chimney Peak 15 Storm King 4770 NE (8540-3770) Goode Mountain 16 Mount Spickard 4704 E (8824-4120) MountSpickard 17 Mount Terror 4701 NE (8151-3450) r Mount Challen� 18 Mount Shuksan 4700 s (7440-2740) Mount Shuksan 19 Booker Mountain 4660 s (7800-3140) GoodeMountain 20 Buck Mountain 4658 NNE (8528-3870) Oark Mountain Footnotes Table 4: ..MVD = Maximum VerticalDrop. + A portion of the Mowich Lake quadrangle contains Rainier's north face. • Unofficial name. @ For the SnowfieldPeak massif, Peak 7614• is where the northeast face originates. Number 14, ChimneyPeak is located in the Olympic Mountains. All of the other faces are situated in the Cascades. In the case of Mount Shuksan, SeahpoPeak is where the abrupt southface is found. According to ProfessorJoseph Vance (GeologyDepartment, University of Washington) and Rowland Tabor (Geologist for the USGS), most-of theseprecipitous faces have been hardened by contact metamorphism. The predominant rock type is homfels, a fine-grained,hard brittle metamorphic rock.One significantexception is Mount Rainier's steep north face ( Willis Wall). Rainier is volcanic, and consists of layers of andesiticlava, pumice and ash. Highest Mountains and Steepest Faces 53 Table 5: Washington's Steepest Mountain Faces (in 1/10 horizontal mile) As determined by Stephen Fry,from current U.S.G.S topographic maps Rank Name MVD in Face Elevation USGSQuadrangle 0.1 mile Span.(ft.) (in feet) 1 Mount Index 2150 w (5150-3000) Index 2 Baring Mountain 2000 NNE (6000-4000) Baring 3 Mount Index 2000 ENE (4760-2760) Index 4 Hozomeen Mtn.,S Pk• 1950 N (8000..;().50) SkagitPeak 5 Davis Peak 1830 NE (6780-4950) Diablo Dam 6 Mox Peaks, E Pk• 1800 E (8200-MOO) MountRedoubt 7 Bear Mountain 1755 NE (7920-6165) MountRedoubt 8 CopperLake Wall• 1700 NE (5400-3700) Silverton@ 8 Three Fingers 1700 E (6600-4900) Whitehorse Mtn. 10 Garfield Mtn, N Pk• 1670 NE (4.560-2890) SnoqualmieLake 11 Booker Mountain 1660 NE (8120-6460) Goode Mountain 11 Hozomeen Mtn,SWPk• 1660 N (7440-5780) Hozomeen Mtn. 13 Hozomeen Mtn,SW Pk• 1640 w (7200-5560) Hozomeen Mtn. 14 Mount Blum 1620 NE (4220-2600) Mount Blum@ 15 Mount Bullon 1610 NE (5410-3800) Whitehorse Mtn. 15 Mount Shuksan 1610 N (7400-5790) Mount Shuksan@ 17 Peak7895• 1600 NW (7600-6000) Mount Spickard 18 Bonanza Peak, SW Pk• 1540 w (9140-7600) Suiattle Pass 18 Hozomeen Mtn,S Pk• 1540 E (7740-6200) SkagitPeak 20 Hozomeen Mtn 1510 w (7910-MOO) Hozomeen Mtn. FootnotesTable 5: - MVD = Maximum Vertical Drop • Unoffidal name. @ Copper Lake Wall• is just south of CopperLake. Mt. Blum's precipitousface is locatedon the mountain's lower northeast buttress. The steepest slope on Mount Shuksan is the north face of Jagged Ridge. According to ProfessorJoseph Vance (Geology Department, University of Washington) and Rowland Tabor (Geologistfor the USGS), nearly allof theseultra-steep faceswere hardened by contactmetamorp hism. The predominant rock typeis homfels, a fine-grained, hard and brittle metamorphic rock. Bear Mountain's steepest face is reported by Vance, Tabor and others to be granitic, but the nearnessof metamorphic rocks and the steepness of the face implies that Bear's sheer rock is at least slightly metamorphosed. 54 TheMou ntaineer The Bailey Range Traverse

Bob Burns

This was an outing to be rememberedfor spectacularvistas, great weather, and overpoweringviews of Mt. Olympus from ever-changing perspectives,but withsome unsettling party diff erences. We met at the Elwha Ranger Stationon Saturday morning.Before we could start our trek, we had to deal with the logistics of ending our triptwelve miles from itsstarting point. Nels drove hiscar five miles up the Elwha River Road to Whiskey Bend,followed by Hank, and left his car there. Both then returned in Hank's van. We all then got into the remaining two vehicles and drove theseven miles to theBoulder Creek trailhead. It was about noon when we started to hike in clear, hot weather, but our progress was slow due to thesize of our packs. Finally, around six o'clock, we spotted a decent campsite in the meadows just below Appleton Pass, and spenta pleasantnight. We got an early startthe next day, and hiked the short distance to Appleton Pass, then left the official trail and headed east, just south of the ridge crest. As we gained elevation, the views of Mt. Olympus and Mt. Tom becameincreasingly impressive.We were following a rudimentary trail,but eventually lost sight of it. It was then that we noticed that we had also lost Joe. Five minutesago he was there with us, and now he was mysteriously gone. We started shouting,looking, and waitingfor an answer. Finally there were shouts from below.Joe had followed the trail,unlike the rest of us, and it was we who were lost, not Joe. After a short discussion on the importance of keeping together, we proceeded along a rather well­ defined trailto a point overlooking Cat Basin. There, the trailended, so we descended into the basin more by feel and instinct than by any navigational expertise,and established a delightful camp alongside a rushing stream. Monday we quickly walked up thehalf mile or soof unofficialtrail to the High DivideTrail. Though very closeto the crest of thedivide, the far views were mostly blockedby groves of statelyold firs. Suddenly the path openedup into an expansive view, not only of Mt. Olympus, but alsoof the entireBailey Range, from Mt. Carrie to Bear Pass.No one declaredor asked for a rest stop. It just happened,and we were all glad it did. Continuing on, the trail eventually ends, and a scramblers' path leads to and along 'The Catwalk." This narrow ridge of rock was not very difficult to negotiate,since therewere plentyof bushesand rocks to useas securehandholds. Once on the other side, we beganthe ascent of Mt. Carrie. We toiled up itsbarren slopes during a very hot afternoon, BaileyRan ge Traverse 55 gaining abo ut two thousand feet. When we arri vedat the 6995-foot summit, we weretire d, sore, and ready to call it a day. The su mmit had all the ingredients for a passable camp: threerath er flat tent platfor ms, and a source of water fro m the nearby Carrie Glacier. It also had a spectacular view of Mt. Olympus, looking directlyup the Blue Glacier. After dinner, the wind pickedup and it took a great deal of effort to tie all the tents down to prevent them fro m blowing aw ay . Once secured, we were treatedto a magnificent sight, as the sun sank into thePa cifi c Ocean while casting a triangu lar shadow of the mountain far below to the east. The sky turnedor ange, red, and then purple, and the temper a­ ture droppedqui ck ly . We spent a fitfulni ght, frequently aw akenedby gu sts ofwind which made the tent walls flap noisily. Tuesday we crossedth e smal l CarrieGl acier and descend ed asteep ro ckslide and snowfield to more gentle terrain below. Eventually we pi cked up the Bailey Rangepa th, which took us toCre am Lake.It had been swea lteringda y, and we were all hot, tired, and dirty, sowe made camp an d took a breathtaking dip in the lake. The next day we traveled cross-countryth rou gh remote, wild terrainto a bro ad, al pine me adow at the footof Mt. Ferry. Though it was only ten o'clock,we decidedto make camp at this place, since it was one of the most beautifu l siteswe had ever seen: stuntedev ergreens, wildflowers, extensive he ather, lichen-co vered ro cks in abundance, and a small, serpentine stream gurglin g at our feet. After pitching the tents,we pack edda ypacks, and by eleven began adel ightful scramble to the top of Mt. Ferry. Fro mth ere we looked at Mt. Carrie, and the steepsn owfield we had descended. We could not believe that we had actually ne gotiatedit, since fro m this vanta ge pointit appearedfa r steepertha n it actu al ly is, due to foreshort­ enin g. We then descended to a saddle, and ascend edth e fa lse su mmit of Mt. Pulitzer.Som e thirtyor feet sohi gher, and slightly to thewest, wa s its true su mmit. We decidednot to cl imb it, since it looked steep, exposed, and co mposedof loose shale. All, that is, except for Joe and Nels. Joe had been carryingth e rope, and took off forth e main summit. We wished hi m well. Nels had not even botheredto gowith therest of us to the fa lse su mmit; he just he aded directly to the truesummit on his own, without discussing his intent with any of us. Joegot to thebase of the finaltower, took one look, and returned to the fa lse su mmit, where we were enjoying the sunshine and the view, particularly that of Mt. Olympus fro m the northeast, looking directly up the Hoh Glacier. After some time, Nels made his way down and joined us. His first words to us were "bad &--." He said that the only thing thatk ept hi m going towards the main su mmit was that he was sure the rest ofus would follow, with the rope,wh ich he could useon his descent.Wh en Joe turned back, Nels knew he was in trouble, but was apparently too 56 TheMount aineer embarrassedto ask for help. Another short discussion aboutbehaving as a team, and keeping together,was in order. We then descended,but not beforesurveying the route that we would followthe next day along the southernhalf of the Bailey Range. Our camp that evening was our favorite of the entire trip,as we were lulledto sleepby the soundof the little babbling brookin the meadow at the footof Mt. Ferry, amid lush fields of heather. Thursdaywas a magicalday, spenttraversing the rest of the range, and taking daypack side trips to the summits of Mt. Childs and Mt. Barnes.This is wild, rugged country,comple tely abovetreeline, devoid of any trailor other sign ofdviliz.ation, and mostly on snow. We felt we were getting drunk on scenery, as we imbibedon ever-changingvistas of Mts.Queets, Seattle, Noyes,and Meany in front of us, and countless others in the distance, but none sopowerful in itsimpact as the sight of Mt. Olympus from the east, lookinghead-on into the Humes Glacier. After descending from Mt. Barnes, we found an ideal campsite very closeto Dodwell-Rixon Pass. The only sadnesswas therealiz.ation that the bestpart of the trip wasnow behind us, and that we would be hiking over 32 miles in the next three days, and mostly at lower elevations without the expansive views that we had so enjoyed these pastfew days.

BaileyRa nge Traverse Judi Maxwell BaileyRange Traverse 57 On Friday we descendedthe Elwha Snowfinger, which that year was broken up into several sections,and gave us somediff iculty.We then crosseda ridge into the Elwha Basin,and found the trail to Chicago Camp, on the main Elwha trail. This was like a freewaycompared to someofthe terrainwehadbeen onduringthepastfew days. Eventually, we arrived at our intended destinationfor the day, Camp Wilder, 21 miles fromthe road at Whiskey Bend.It was aboutthree o'clock, and someof us were tired,sore, and in needof rest. But when we arrived at the junction with a side trail to the camp, some membersof the party asked that we reconsider our plans. Nels suggested that, instead of camping here at Wilder as we had planned, we continue another four miles today, and camp at HayesRiver tonight. Then we could complete the remainingseventeen miles tomorrow, and "get the tripover with" a day earlier than planned. My reaction to this idea was very negative, and I hoped that a majorityof the party would back me up, so Iasked everyone for their opinions.Nels,Joe,andPegwantedtogooutadayearlier.Colleen,Rick and I wantedto stickto the originalplan. Hank was undecided.It was a tensemoment, but it was apparent that,as trip leader, I would settle the issue by deciding to stickto the original plan. To prevent such a decision,Nels pointedout that he ''held all the cards," since it was his car at Whiskey Bend, and that, Peg, and Joe could hike out now and leave the restof us behind,with no transportation availableto get back to the remaining vehicle. I was shocked that someone would make such a statement - threatening to renegeon the agreementthat he had made regarding our driving arrangements, and bringing dissentionand division upon our party, in a club with a statedpurpose of encouraging a "spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoorlife." Furthermore,if Joewent along with this idea, then Colleenwould beleft without a ride, sowe would have to go considerably out of our way to get her home. I looked at Rick, who appearedexhausted, and unable or at least very unwilling to go another four milesthat day. I looked at Colleen,and sawthat she was on the verge of tears. For their sakes,as well as my own, I did not wish to continue on thatday. But what if the others carried out their threat? We would have to hitch-hike twelve miles to get to Harik's van, most likely delaying our returnhome. What could we do? In despera­ tion,I decided to appealto any senseof decencythat Nels might have. I told him that I recognized there was nothing to prevent him from deserting the restof the party, but I addedthat I felt he was basically a decentand honorable personwho would not stoop to such a low level to accomplish sucha narrow purpose.To my astonishment, he backed down. So we made camp and spent a somber evening, unable to overcome the spirit of disharmony that had settled on our party. 58 The Mountaineer Saturdaywas a long but easy andrelaxed hike to Mary Falls Camp, through magnificent stands of giant Douglasfir, with variation pro­ videdby western hemlock,silv:er fir, alder, and maple, towering over a valley floorcovered with vanilla leaf, lupine, and moss. I enjoyed the hike, and was glad that we had not elected to cover this ground in a hurried and tiringmanner. Thatevening, we made plans forthe final day's journey.The threedrivers---Hank,Joe, and Nels---wouldleave an hour or soahead of therest of us, hike to the trailhead,drive in Nels' car to the othertrailhead, and driveall threecars back to Whiskey Bend to meetthe rest of theparty. Also, since both Hankand Joehad somehow managedto escapethe burden of ropecarrying the precedingtwo days, they would share that jobon thefinal day of the outing. The nextmorning we awoke early, and Hank and Nels had a quick cold breakfast. When they were preparing to leave, Joe was not yet ready, and asked Hank to takethe rope.Hank saidhe did not want to start off the day carryingthe rope, but that he and Nels would stop somewherealongtheway, and theywould waitforhimand they could trade it at thattime. Joe finished his breakfast, packed up, and headed down thetrail, about fifteen minutesbehind Nels and Hank. Theother four ofus left camp aboutan hour later. When we reached WhiskeyBend, we did not seeany of the driversor their vehicles. But then a strangerapproached us and askedif we werefrom a party which includedthree men who sounded like Hank, Joe,and Nels. Afterwe repliedaffirmatively, he explainedthatabo utan hour before,two of the party(presumably Nels and Hank) reached the trailhead,walked to a car, and began removeto their boots.Then a third person(presumably Joe)arrived, carryingarope onhis pack. He sawthe other two, removed the ropefrom his pack,shouted someangry words to the effectof "you never stopped and waited for me," then threw the rope at one of the others (presumably Hank), hittinghim forcefully in theshou lder with it. The latter responded by taking a threatening stanceand shouting angrywords at theformer. A possiblefistfight was only averted when the third memberof the group (presumably Nels) appealed to the two protagoniststo settle their differences peacefully, and eventually they calmeddown enough toclimb into the car and drive away. After thecars arrivedwe drove to Port Angeles for lunch in a good restaurant.The nourishment, along witha refreshingrepleni shment of lost bodilyfluids, served to calm everyone. The past hostilities were · soonforgotten, and we were all able to laugh and reminisceabout the high and low pointsof the trip.It had beena most interesting outing. Adventuresin the Far Narth 59 Adventures in the Far North

Dennis Larsen

© MarieMills/Dauid Cummings Gates ofthe Arctic TheArr igetch peaks are located in the Gates of the ArcticNa tional Park in northernAlas ka. It is a remote ar eaacces sible mainly by float pl ane. The peaks ar e granite towers, an d spires of immense beauty. Most ar e very techn ical cl imbs, although a fewar e easy scrambles. Ille following is a descr iption of a visit made in 1988. TheCessna 185 flewover the Al atna River valleyand al l its oxbo ws. I was lookingfor GrcleLake an d the six others who madeup our party. I was also looking forthe Arrigetch Peaks, thosemagn if icent granite sp ir es which were our destination . Before I coul d locateeither, the Cessna dipped its win gsan d headeddown. Circle Laketurn� out to bean arc ratherthanacir cl e, with twomoosegrazin gidly at oneendand paying no attention to the hubbub cre atedby nine visitorsto their wildern ess. As our plane flew away, we went looking fora campsite. Themoo seign ore d us an d kept on eating. It hadbeen a long day. Wehad flownfromSeattletoFairbanks,the n to Bettles, an d on to Circle Lake. Now we just wantedto rest. 1he lakeshore was too swampy for acam p, sowe hoisted our heavy packs an d moved to a strea m about a hal f mile away. Quickly the tentswent up, food sack s were open ed, an d the stoves wereroa ring. All of them ex cept mine. It ju st seemedto be on fire. Hames were everywhere, lick in g dan ger ou sly near the fu el bottle an d mak in g din ner an all too ex citin g event. Someha stilythr own dirtpreve ntedan explosion, bu tthe st ove that Ray an d I were toshar e had melted down. It was now a pile of uselessjunk. This was n't a very good way to begin a two week backpack ing trip, an d I was hoping this would bethe low point. Thene xt day, I wasn't so sure.It was an all day bu sh whack . The pack s were heavy, thebr ush was never en ding an d it was hot, in the eighties. It' s not supposedto betha t hotin thear ctic.So we thought.We plann edto go up theridge abo ve Circle Lake, st ay high, andcontour ar ound tothe va lleyof ArrigetchCreek. After twel veho ursof battl ing brush our water bottl eswer eon empty. So wasour morale. Wasitgoing 60 TheMountaineer to betwo weeksof this? I called a halt to the ridge running and started our exhausted crew down toward the creek and its much needed water. I suspected that the brush would beworse down there,but we had no choice. So down we went. Then just before we reached the creek, we stumbled upon a trail. We cou ldn't believe it . All we had to do was put one foot in front of the other all theway tothe alpine country at the foot of theArri getch Peaks. It would besi mple now. We arrived at noon the next day and set up camp. It was timeto explore. Day packs were the orderof the day and our feetmoved lightly. First we wanted to explore the north fork valley. Everyone seemed in tent on looking up at the fabulous peaksaround us, Xanadu, Caliban, and Melting Tower. It was a magnificent place, a lu sh green alpine valley surrounded on bothsi des by towering granite walls and spires. And it seemed to go on forever. The ambitious in our party started scrambling ahead and up for better views. Pam, John and I lingered behind and were treated to the sight of a herd of dall sheep scampering around on the valley floor. We couldn't im agine any place prettier. That impression lasted untilwesawthesouthforkvalley.Waterfalls came first. Next came a series of alpine lakes. Granite waterslides connectedthem. Knife edge gran ite spires and walls were everywhere. Each comer offered a new spectacular vista. The upper basin was incred ible, dominatedby the Wichman Tower. Ray, Dave, and Marie went friction climbing up a granite slope. They looked like ants high aboveus. Camerascl icked and neckscraned. The lakes sparkled and the streams slid down the granite slabs. Th is is what we came for. Too soon it was time to leave. We headed cross country,above the brush, towards Takahula Lake, our pick up point. It took four days to get there . Along theway we were treated to more alpine vistas, views of Shot Tower, the Citadel, and hundreds of other peaks.We scrambled up a couple of the easy ones and looked in awe at the hard ones. Dave, Marie, and Ray spent one evening on a small peak watching a silver tipped grizzly hunt and play below them. We spent one night camped near a hawk owl nest. Mom flew over us on her huntingrounds with small rodents in her talons. I ran into another grizzly one afternoon, while go ing througha sma ll pass. The beartook one look and ran,for which I was very grateful. We sawa mooseone afternoon,and found somecari bouant lers on top of a hill. It seemed like a pretty fa ir wildlife display forafour day hike . Takahula Lakeandourfloatplanebothcame toofast. None of us wanted to leave th is specia l place and we all vowed to return someday . PartyMembers: Dennis Larsen, Ray Heller, John Edison, David Cummings, Paul Gauthier, Shari Hogshead,Pam Pritzl, Marie Mills, KathyKelleher. Adventures in the FarNorth 61 Ellesmere Island Ten eager Mountaineersgathered in Edmonton, Alberta on July 4, 1989 enroute to theworld's most northerly national park. The destina­ tionwas Tanquary Fiord on the northernend of the tenthlargest island in the world, Ellesmere Island. Thisisland,abc)Ut the sizeofEnglandand Scotlandtogether, is the locationof Canada's newestnational park, and a place of interestinghistory and geology.Admiral Perry usedthis area as the jump off pointfor his north poleexpeditions just after the turn of the century. LieutenantGreely ofthe U.S. Army led a two year explo­ ration of the Island in the late 1800sand earnedimmortality when most of his men died.The land itselfisadesert.There are mountains, valleys, and fiords. The icecapsof thelast ice age lingeron the mountains. The musk ox, the arctichare, and the white woif live here. And the ten of us were anxious to seeit. We arrivedin Edmonton from various directionsthe evening before the once weekly flight to Resolute, Northwest Territories. Our one mishap was a potentially serious one. The airlines lost Pat Ziobron's pack and most of her gear. We later learned that it went to Hawaii. Apparently it didn't like the idea of beingjust 400miles from the north pole.We all pitchedin with extra clothesand gear. The airline bought her a new pack (30 minutesbefore we left) and a midnight run to the Safeway storereplaced the lost food. In the morning we were on our way. Our first stop was Yellowknife where we got off the plane and wandered over to a nearby lake and enjoyed the sunshine. Next was Resolute, as far north as commercial airlinesfly. Then travel was by a chartered twin otter aircraft to our final destination, TanquaryFiord. We landedon an airstrip built for the internationalgeo-physical year in the 1950s.Expecting only an abandoned airstrip,we weresurprised to find a small but busy arctic researchcenter , a park warden, and a visitors tent, with stove, big enough to sleep all 10 of us with roomto spare.

TanquaryFj ord © Marie Mills/DavidCummings 62 TheMountaineer Our plan was to explore the river valleys that fed into the upper reaches theof fiord, doa tripdown the fiord itself,scramble some peaks, and seeif we could locate some musk oxen and thewhite wolf. Ourfirst trip was up theMcDo nald River valley to the "continental divide". Theriver was shallow,dear, meandering and had many gravel bars.The land was bleak and barrenwith islands of vegetationalong the way. Glacier covered peaks and the Viking Ice Cap lined the valley walls. We saw musk oxen every day on this trekand on our third day out the white wolf came visitingcamp about4:00 a.m. Pam Pritzl and JohnEdison had a dose-uplook from the comfortof theirtent. The rest of us had to becontent with a long distance glimpse, as we were a bit tardyin arising. Fortunately, on our 18-day stay on the island we sawseveral more wolves.I had the privilege of meetingone up closewhile taking a solo hike acrossthe tundra. Our second trek was downthe fiord to Silene Creek.The McDonald was cold, windy and rainy. Silene creek was warm and sunny, T-shirt weather.Here we contentedourselves with looking at the the stunning views, photographing an arcticfox in his den, doing somebird watch­ ing, lookingat the flowers in the height of their short summer bloom, skippingstonesonthewater,exploringancientThuleruins,andpoking our noseinto every nook and crannyof the fiord. Our thirdand finaltrek was up the roll rockand red rock valleys. Firstwe had to wait a coupleof days to let the McDonaldRiver drop a few feet.The warm weatherhad turned this gentleriver into a roaring torrent. This was probably the coldest river crossing any of us ever made.The river was deep,35 degreesF., and swift. Theother side held a land of lakes, sand dunes,and glaciers, and peaks.There were the tracks ofCaribou here but we sawnone. A highlightwas watching a pair of nestingred-throated loons on a small grass islandwith a chunk of ice on it andthe loons silhouet tedagainst the ice. In the distance was a herd of a dozenmusk oxen. Ellesmere IslandMammal List MusicOxen Arctic Hare Arctic Fox Arctic Wolf Collared Lemming BirdList Ruddy Turnstone OmmwnRinged Pluver Long-tailedJaeger Arctic Tern Oldsquaw Snow Goose Snow Bunting Rock Ptarmigan Red Knot Brant Baird's Sandpiper Party Members: Dennisum;en,Ray Heller, JohnEdison,David Cummings, Bill :zauche, Vic Josendal, Pat Ziobron,Pam Pritzl, KathyKelleher, Marie Mills Adventuresin the Far North 63 British Columbia1990 Rainbow Range Tweedsmuir Provincial Park A sixteen-hour drive north brings one to a very beautifuland uncro wdedpla ce. It is a land of meadows, lakes, peaks, volcanic colors, and wildlife.We ca mehere in la te July. Ittooktwodaystodothedrive,traveling uptheFraserRivercanyon to Williams Lake, BritishCo lumbia. Fromhere we headedwest on the Bella CoolaHi way . We all gathered at theBull Cany on campgro und, along theChil cotinRi ver. The next day we drove toHeckman Pass where we started our trip. At first we followed a trail up through thi nning wood lands, eventually breakingoutintomeadowlands.Then the trail disappe ared and it was cross-a>untryfor 5 days. Theland wa s stunninglybea utiful. Inthe di stanc e were thesnow y peaks of thecoas t I range, including Mt. Waddington. Nearat handis theRainbow Ra nge with its multi-colored rocks. Underfoot were flowers, flowers, and flowers. In our fiveda ys of crosscoun try we sawno other people. We I did see ahundred or so wood land caribou, and spe nt one evening camped near a large herd ofthem. When we came out of theRa inbowswe traveledto LonesomeLake and TurnerLake and spe nt a wee k canoei ng andrelaxing and learning abo ut the pleasuresthat thi s areaoffer s and plottingfutu retrips. Party Members: Dennis Larsen, Rily Heller, John Edison, Dll'Oid Cummings, Mllrty Mullin, Gordon Ellison,Pat Ziobron,Pam Pritz.I, Kathy Kelleher, Esta Anderson, Carol Mockridge, Mllrie Mills

© MarieMills/David Cummings 64 TheMountaineer

Denali BevDahlin /Steve Johnson

Dolomite Mountains BevDahlin/S teve Johnson Contrasts 65 Contrasts: Brooks Range to the Dolomites

Bev Dahlin and Steve Johnson

Outings in the last several years have provided members with an opportunityto exp lore and enjoy parts of the great outdoors other than our own Cascades. At times in a leisurely fashion, other times more difficult. They range from a Conservation Division sp:msored explora­ tion of the remote northern interior of Alaska to a Hikes Committee sponsoredforay spenton well established trails in the Dolomite Moun­ tains of Italy. In July 1988,nine Mountaineerswere flown by bush pilot into the northernfoothi lls of the Brooks Range and deposited, along withal most a thousand poundsof gear, on a gravel bar in the middle of the Hula Hula River. Our initial plans had included flying into the tundra and landing by float plane on a large Arctic la ke. After our original pilot tipped over his plane two days beforeour "takeoff" , we were forced to find a new pilot, a new plane, and a new landing site. This plane had wheels instead of floats. We lugged allour gear a quarter of a mile from the river and set up a basecamp. From there we looped out in four day backpack trips, coming back to checkthat the main food cache remained immune from bears, ground squirrels, mice, and crows. Thirteendays were spentexpl oring the magic of the tundra in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. With twenty-four hoursof daylight in which to hike, watch birds, and take pictures, it was difficult to know when to eat and when to sleep.Soon wewere eatingdinner at 10 p.m. sothat we could beginour after-dinner hikes at midnight, rushing to the top of nearby mountains to capture the horizontalsetting of the mid­ night sun. In just a couple of hours, we could seethe light turnfrom the golden glow of sunset to the softpink flush of early morning. With no contact with the outside world of any kind during our northern sojourn, we learned to relax and coped with unexpected adventures daily. We learnedhow to hop from tussockto tussockand evade mosquitos by wearing either copious layers of clothing or copiousquantitiesof "Jungle Juice". But mainly we concentrated on the special solitude of this pristine wilderness,grat efultha t we could be there. Our most important lessonwas how to build a runway on our gravel bar sothat our three-passengerpl ane could pick us up. The gravel bar was long enough for the plane to takeoff empty when we were flown in, but not long enough to take off load edwi th us and our equipment. Using our foodbuckets , ice axes, hands and feet, we moved a few truck loads of gravel to fill in a small stream channel, level out the length of 66 TheMou ntaineer the gravelbar. A runway good enough to last for at least severalseasons was created in nine hours oflabor.Our experiencedpilot saidit was one of thebest hehad seen.

,,,

AttheotherendoftheextremewasaHikesoutingtrekkingfromhut to hut through some of the most beautiful scenery in Europe. The Dolomite Mountains in Northeastern Ita ly are fairly unknown to Americans but much loved and usedby Europeanhikers and climbers. The world famous climber Reinhold Messner grew up in the Dolomites. In September 1990, fifteenMountaineers fl ew to Zurich, took a train to Bressanone,a small Italian village in the foothills of the Dolomites. From there itwas a brief bus ride to the trailhead. Thus begantwo weeks of hiking an assortmentof trailsbetween huts. Somewere wide paved paths going through farm yards with chickens, dairy cows and laundry drying on the line. Others were rocky routes marked by cairns in landscapesas barren as the moon. Many of the high areas could be accessed by cable cars and lifts. Becauseour time was limited, we took advantage of them to get up high fast. Then time was spent exploring the mountains, flowers and views. Septemberweather in the Dolomites is like September weather in the Northwest. It's beautiful but can change overnight. Shorts one day, woolpants the next. No backpacking is allowed sowe did not carry tents, sleepingbags, cooking equipmentor freezedried food. We carried only our personal gearand the "ten essentials". Every evening we had a bedto sleep in, hearty Italian food to eat (that someoneelse had cooked), German beer and Italian wine if desired and goodinternationa l companionship. We had songfests with several different groups of hikers, someFrench and some German, playing guitars and harmonicas. We have since ex­ changed photos and correspondencewith our "comrades of the Moun­ tains". The Dolomitesare rich in history. This area had belonged to Austria until it was given to Italy at the end of World War I. As result,it is now officially bilingual-Italian and Gern:mn.hiked We alonghigh alpine ridges and over wild passeswhere World War I fortifications,trenches, and barbed wire still reminded us that a war fought seventyyears ago was really only yesterday. Hiking in the Dolomites allowed us to see some breathtaking scenery, while learning about othercu ltures, and travelling through places where history still lives. Thesetwo outingsshow the varietythat is available for Mountain­ eers-ranging from solitude in the Arctic to the scenic history, well travelledtrails in Europe. Joinus sometime. Bellingham Mountaineers 67 The Riseand Rise of the Bellingham Mountaineers

Ken Wilcox "Ya know, there oughta be aBranch in Bellingham." Anton's words were memorable ones. I'd had the same thought for a couple years­ probably aslong ashe had. Wepushedoursnowshoesthroughthebushes and found a small log crossingthe snow-filled stream I bravelyparaded across. "Yup. There's enough of us driving all the way to Everett for meetingsand all. Sure why not?" I replied,and stopped. My snowshoe got stuck. I looked toward the edge of the woods still a few hundred yards beyond and started grumbling aboutall thestumps sticking up out of the deepspring snow. I barelynoticed how lovely the double summits of the Twin Sisters appeared,sun on white under a dear blue sky. 'This is nuts! I can't believe they're still cuttin' up here," I saidand started shaking my shoe. "Why don't we get everyone together and talk aboutit sometime?" · "Ya, it's a wasteland alright. Peopleneed to hear about this," Dennis agreed. '1 mean the club." It struckme that Anton was the first one I knew that had said more than two words about the idea of a new branch in Bellingham.We figured there must be atl�ast twenty or thirty Moun­ taineersliving in Skagit and Whatcom Counties. I shookmy foot looseand snapped anawkward picture of Dennis when I reached the other side of the hollow. It was noon. '1 think we shoulda left the houseearlier, " I observed. "The ridge is stilla couple hours awayat the rate we're going. At least we'll have a nice view of the sunsetfrom the summit." I pretendedI stillwanted to do theclimb and mushedon. "How about Fast Eddy's?" "Perfect. Let's do someflyers, call a few folks." Sobegan the founding of the BellinghamBranch of theMountaineers. A summer throng of 70 or 80 people showed up at the Fairhaven Park Pavilion in responseto theflyers. After the crowdleft, Chuck and Carol and Steve and othersstuck around to help organize. Theywould eventually becomeofficers. Anton would becomeour first Chairman. By fall, we were well on our way. That winter, Dennis and I left for Mexico. On the way to Sea-Tac,it was my designatedduty to stop in at The Mountaineersboard meeting on Pike Street togive them a spiel on whyanewbranchwassuchagoodidea. Itwasalittlescary,butwegave 68 TheMountaineer it to 'em straight. And they bought it. On February 3rd, 1983, after collectingour requisitefifty signatures, theBoard passed a motionthat officially createda BellinghamBranch. In a month we had bylaws and officers and soon even a few hikes and scrambles were on our first calendar. We introduced ourselves to the Bellinghampublic and presented programs on climbing, kayaking, rafting,sailing, world travel,history, geology and a great deal more.We even put out a nifty newsletter twice a year for the local membership. A few ranters and ravers kept our conservationawa renesstuned in: 'We gotta get Mt. Baker in the Wilderness Bill." (Remember the wildernessbill? Mt. Baker and the Twins bothmade it in. Halfa miracle. Atleasttherockandicewassaved. 'Theoldforestssurroundingthemwould have to wait.) Energy went into planning trips and programs and organizing a hiking or climbing course.After all, wasn't that why most of us joined the club to begin with? Of course, we didn't want to jump into somethingas big and seriousas a technical climbing coursefrom scratch and hiking didn't seemambitious enough. Sothe idea of a scrambling class was tossed around. And that's what became the club's first instructional offering in the spring of 1985. It was a greatsuccess. The people were great, students were great, even the instructors behaved themselves. In 1987, we added ropes and gadgetry. Thanks mostly to Karen Neubauer's enthusiasm (ok, I get a little credittoo) we charged ahead with a curriculum based on what the two of us had both learned growing up in the Everett Branch. We found a bunch of good peopleto help out and cruised. Everyone enjoyed the class, especially Mt. Erie. Karenand I were pleasedwe never had to useour superrubberized retractablenose tongs to keep people in line. In fact, we observed how incredibly warm and friendly the people who signed up for these classes really were. Each year, we were like family by the timewe did our Mt. Bakerclimb. Coming off the volcano, I always felt a kind of sad withdrawal, like givingup your bestbike, when we poundeddown the trail. I didn't want it to beover. The climbing course haspretty well sustained itselfthanks to way too many instructors to name, including many coursegraduates who have come back thenext year to help teach. Of course, Bellingham has not been known for the swarms of volunteers buzzing around demanding some workto do. It's never certain that enough peoplewill volunteer foranything up here. Amaz­ ing as it may sound, even Bellinghamhas a hard time explaining the "volunteerismphenomenon" tosome members, that is, if zero percent of the amortized bennies derived from the organizationfall out of the BellinghamMountaineers 69

Rex Andrew sky, who makes things happen? Yooo dooo. Formost of our history, trips and activities were always slow in coming. We all groaned that there were never enough thingsplanned when you needed them, and never enough participants when you finally had plans. Still, we managed a few cross-country ski trips, telemark seminars, a little snowshoeing, some kayak and canoetrip­ ping, picnics,and a lot of hikesand backpacks. After eight years,things are definitely moving up. Many thanks are due toBob, Judi, Katy, Sandy, Bob,Sam, 1J, Daphne, John, Jim, Diane and all the others (I'm absolutelyembarrassed under the table about forgetting their names right now) who have hung in there to make this club happen.Many more folkshave been gettinginvolved latelyand, to be sure, a lot more stuff is going on throughout the year. One big reason might be the fact that our ex-officio chair, Fred Wagner managed to double the club's membership in one year! We broke the 200member barrier by the first of 1991. Afullscheduleofl991 tripsandactivitiesisout,includingapleasing diversity of summer destinations. Trail work parties are planned (to build on another of Fred's big efforts) and monthly programsremain as informativeand enjoyable as always. By the way, Mexico was great although I coulda left the snowshoes home. When I got back to Bellingham,Anton ran off to climb Mt. Everest in retaliation for our defeat on the North twin. And Dennis is now president and membership coordinator of the World Federation of Oubs, Societiesand Associationson the north end of town. 70 TheMountaineer The Peshastin Pinnacles: Washington State's NewClim bing Park

Marcia Hanson

Forthirty yearsa unique formationof 200 foot high sandstonespires located2 miles east of Cashmere was used by rockclimbers. Located on privately owned orchard land, the area becameknown as 'The Peshastin Pinnacles" and was especially popular in the spring and fall when weather or snow made the mountains less attractive. In 1986, the landowners closedthe area to climbing due to concernsabout liability. After 5 years, the effortsof severalorganizations have paid off. The Peshastin Pinnacles became Peshastin Pinnacles State Park and was reopenedto climbing at 6 am April 13, 1991. The Mountaineersplayed a significantrole in getting the Pinnacles reopenedthrough hard work by volunteerswho organized and ran fund raising activities,provided monetary contributions,trail building labor,and most importantly by providing a driving force and demonstratingcommunity interest in this typeof recreationarea. Thereweremanyfirstascentsofroutesintheearly60s.lnthosedays, gearoften consisted of tennis shoes and steel carabiners. Due to a lack of cracks most routes were protected with bolts.In 1982 TriggerFinger, one of the smaller yet more noteworthy spires, fell over and joinedMt. St. Helens in the extinct climbs category. At thePinnacles, area climberslearned and practiced frictionclimb­ ing techniques which emphasized climbing with your feet, trusting downsloping footholds and using hands for balance. A common senti­ ment among beginninglead climberswas thatthe boltswere too few and far between,and that it was a long way to that first bolt. After the 1986 closure, severalorganizations such as The Mountain­ eers,BoAlps, and the American Alpine Club joined together to find a way to reopen the Pinnacles. It also became dear that other rock climbing areas were in peril as well. A group of EasternWashington climbersformed the ChelanDouglas Land Trust for this very reason.· After a few ups and a lot of downs, as various optionswere considered, a strategy developed which provedto besuccessful. TheTrustfor Public Land(1PL) tookon thisproject. 1PL is a nationalno�-profit organiza­ tion that acquires and protects land for conservation and recreation until theproperties can betransf erred to a public agency-in this case, Washington State Parks. In March of 1990, the light at the end of the tunnel came into view. The Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission approved acquisition of several Washington Wildlife and Recreation Coalition PeshastinPinnacles 71 nominated projects. The 1990 supplemental Capital Budget provided the fund s for 17 projectsand $350,000 wasincl udedfor the Peshastin Pinnacles.In addition, TPL, The Mountaineers, the Ameri can Alpine Club and individual cli mber s concluded year lon g negotiation s with the land ow ners and TPL obtainedan op tion to purchasethe Pinnacles by Au gu st 31, 1990.Wi th the State Parks, and input from organiz.a tion s men tioned above,TPL devised pla an to finalizethe crea tion of thisnew park. Ever si nce the closure of the Pinnacles, Dianne Hoff (currently president of The Mountaineers) was a key person in the various ne gotiations. In April of 1990, Dianne formed the Pinnacle s Park Coalition whose objective was "to ensure that the Peshastin Pinnacl es are re-opened to rock cli mbers and thege nera l publi c, and to ensure propersi te preparation by raising$60,000 no later tha n Au gust 1, 1990". The Ameri can Alpine Club and REI ea ch contributed$1 0,000 to thi s project. The Coali tion, largely made up of Mountaineers, recogniz.ed they had to "get the word out", and do it quickly. A fund rai sing slide sh ow , "Freeat Last" featuring Paul Pianna was quick ly put together. It wa s wellattended,raised over$1000,and mostimportantly started togetthe word out to the cli mbing community. Pinnacles T-shirtswere another fund raising and publicity effm;t which raised over $3000. The most effective fund raisin g method was through articles in the monthly MountaineerMa ga zine which alertedthe clubmember ship oftheneed, importance and expediency of donation s. Mountaineers contributed over$17,500.0fthis,$1500waspledgedduringa one eveningPinnacles telethon. On Friday, Au gu st 24, the fund went over the top. Everyone cheered, took a deep breath and said, 'We had better start building those trail s". With the help of area cli mbers, Ji m Angell designeda trail sy stem, and during a few weekends in the fa ll of 1990,8,300 feet of trails were built. State Park officials were astoundedat the speed and quality of construction . Many of the trail builders had cli mbed at the Pinnaclesbefore the ir closing, and cou ld remember how bad ly eroded the areahad become. It was deli ghtfu l to seeho w muchve getation had come backand how thearea sh ou ld really look.It willbeveryi mportanttouseand ma intain the trails or the Pinnacleswi ll again become a verti cal desert.

Other park amenities and improve ments include a large parking area,a heliport,and vault toilets. Gra ss and picnic table s arepl annedfor the area above the parking lot and Poplar treeswill be planted as a windbreakalo ngthe west fen ce. Possi bly, picnic tableswil l bepl acedat one or two of the viewpoints. Cli mbers are responsible for their own safety,therefo re boltsare the 72 TheMou ntaineer responsibility of individual climbersand are not monitoredor admin­ istered bythe StatePark . By the end of April, many old bolts had been replaced by individual climbers with new bolts epoxied into newly drilled holes. Someof the old bolts were easily removed by hand! The park has been officially named PeshastinPinnacles State Park and the ribbon cutting ceremony is planned forJune 15, 1991. The secondweekend after the April reopening,I found myselfgwing advice and words of encouragement to a "Pinnacles novice". He was complaining about howfa r it was to that first bolt, how few boltsthere were and the lackof realhandholds . Yes - there isclimbing in the Pinnaclesonce again.

Sulphide Glacier DennisO'Callaghan Peshastin Pinnacles 73

BaileyRange LowellSkoog 74 TheMountaineer Maps for Hikers and Climbersin the 1990's

Stewart Wright

The purposeof thisarticle is to givethe reader an idea of the kinds of mapsthat are usefulto hikers andclimbers and where they might be obtained. Many new maps and maJrrelated products have become available in thelast few years. Particularlysignificant are the completion of theU.S. Geological Survey7.5-minute map seriesand the increasein the number of privately- produced maps that are designed for recre­ ationalusers. The specific examples given in this article are for the State of Washington. Readersmay applythe generalexamples in thisarticle to their own localities.Since map prices aresubject to frequent changes, no pricesare listed. (Disclaimer: The review of private- or public-sector mapproducts in this articledoes notconstitute an endorsementby The Mountaineers, Inc. or the author.) In Searchof the"Perfect" Map A "perfectmap" is one thathas all the information needed and is completely up-to-date. This map simply doesn't exist. The world is constantlychanging: roads and trailsare built and destroyed,trees are cut, and volcanoeserupt. A map doesnot update itself; it is locked in time. Also, most maps are not specifically designed with hikers and climbersin mind. Thisfactmay requirethe useof several differenttypes of mapsto obtain all thenecessary information for a hike or climb. The followingare some typesof maps that are useful to hikers and climbers. ReliefMaps A mapis generallyconsidered a two-dimensionalrep resentationof a portion of the earth's surface. There is a type of map that gives the impression of the third dimension, that of relief, the difference in elevation.These are called reliefmaps. The pictorial relief mapactually looks like a picture. It is drawn as though the map maker is looking down at the terrain. While many mountainsand valleys arereadily visible,others are obscured. Pictorial mapsof manyprominent mountains or ranges are available. Theshaded relief mapuses various gray and browntones to give the impression of relief. The National Park Service is currently producing shaded reliefVisitors' maps formost National Parks and Monuments. Sometimes shaded reliefis combined with contour lines to produce a map thatis not only useful forplanning, trip but alsofor navigation. Theraised relief mapis a sheetof plasticon which a map is printed. Mapsfor Hikersand Climbers 75 It is then mold edby heatand pressure to sho w theac tualterrain of an area. Thesemaps are relativel y expensiveand are availabl e forlimited areas. Relief maps are most usefulfor tri p plannin g. Theyhel p theuser in getting anide a of thela y of thela nd.Relief maps are generally not suitable forland navi gation. Theyca n beobtained fromsome book and outdoorequi pment shops. PlanimetricLand Management and Recreation Maps Man y government agencies and pri vate rompanies pu blish land ma nagement and recreation maps. These are horiz.ontal position s of man-mad e and natural featu res.No attemptismad etoshowrel ief other than spot el evations.They are usuallyrev ised on regularbasis and can provide up-to-dateinfo nnation on roads, trails andcampi ng facilities. Since they do not show relief, they are not extremel y usefulfor cross­ country travel or climbing. Most are available for a small fee, or sometimesfor fr ee.Some ex amples are: 1) timberrom panyhu nters' maps, 2) Wash ington Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Multiple-Use Are a maps and Public Lands Quadrangl es, 3) State Parks maps, and 4) U.S. ForestServi ceVi sitors' Maps. Guidebook Maps Guidebookmaps vary gre atl y in quality and accuracy. Some are merely sk etch maps; othersare qui te accurat e modifications of topo­ graphic maps. They generall y rontain usefulroad and tra il in fonna tion. Maps fromguidebooksare'usefulin tri p pl anningand maybe usefulon the trail. Climbers' SketchMap s Thisty peof mapis gen erallycr ud e, but can beeffectiv e in sho win g detailed climbing rou te infonnation that does notus uall y appea r on ot her maps. Sketch mapsare used to su pplement othermap info nna­ tion. In someare as, climbers' sk etchmapsare theonly sou rceof detailed route infonnation. Sketch maps mu st beused withca ution as theyare not drawn to an y specificca rto graphic accuracy standard. Topographic Maps Topographic maps are gen erall y the most usefulmaps for hikers and cli mbers. A topographic mapshows ter rain and landfonns in a measurable form: contour lines. It also shows accuratehor iz.ontal locations of man-mad e and natural features. (For defini tions of com­ mon map-rel atedtenn s, seeGl os.sary of SelectedMapp ing Tenns at the end of this articl e.) The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) isthe mai n producer of topo- 76 TheMountaineer graphic maps in the UnitedStates. Not only does the USGSprovide topographicmapping,butalsomapsyrnbo lsheets,stateand seriesmap indexes and many map-oriented brochures. 7.5-Minute SeriesMaps Large-scale, one inch equals 2,000feet, al so known as the 1 :24,000-scale series. These maps are considered the standard for most of the United States. This is the most detailed map series,exce llent for cross-countrynavigation and for technical climbing route finding. Contours are in feet. Each map covers a relativelysmall area, about 6 by 9 miles. Most maps in this series have been made or revisedin the la st 20years. Over 50,000of thesequadra ngles are needed to cover the lo wer 48 states and Hawaii. (A relative ly few quadrangles have beenproduced at 1 :25,000-scale and the contours for these maps are in meters. Severa l thousand other 7 5-minute quadrangles have beencompl eted to simplified specificationsand are called Provisional maps.) This map seriesshoul d becompl etedby late 1991. Coverage of thesemaps are shown on individual statemap indexes. IS-Minute Series Maps: Intermediate-scalemaps, about 1 inch to the mile. Alsoknown as the 1 :62,500and 1 :63,360(in Alaska) series.This series shows re latively good detail and can beused for cross- country navigationandmanyclimbingroutes.Eachmapcoversanareaofabout 12 by 18 miles. Formost of the United States,maps in this seriesare no lo nger being produced; they are being replacedby 75-minute maps. A notable exception is Alaska. The standard map for Alaska isa IS-minute map at a scale of 1:63,360; the actual east-westextent of these maps is greater than 15-minutes. Approximately 2,900 maps are needed to cover the state. Completion of Alaska 15-minute quadrangles is ex­ pected by late 1991. Maps for this series are shown on individual state indexes. 1:100,000-Scale Series: Intermediate-scale, one inch equalsapproxi­ mately 1.6 miles, shows metric contour intervals and spot elevations. These maps show less detail than the 1:24,000-scale quadrangles, but each 1:100,000-scale map covers 32 times the area of a 1:24,000-scale quadrangle.Age of road and trailinformation varies frommap to map. This map seriesis not generally suitable forcl imbing route finding, but can beespecia lly usefulto peop le on an extended backpack or for trip planning. Over half the country is covered by topographic versions of this map series;most of the rest of the countryis covered by planimetric versions. Eventually, topographic 1:100,000maps will beavai lable for the lower 48 states and Hawaii. Maps of this series are shown on individual state and 1:100,000series indexes. 1:250,000-Scale Series: Theseare small-scale maps, aboutone inch equals four miles and are available for the entire country. While not suitable for cross-countrynavigation, they can be usedasa trippl anning tool. They cover an area equivalent to 128 1 :24,000quadrang les. Major Mapsfor Hikers andClimbers 77 topographicand man-made featuresare shown. Maps of this seriesare shown on individual state and 1:250,000series indexes. National Parks and SpecialtyMaps: Map ages and scales vary and they are available for most National Parks, Monuments and many National RecreationAreas. All are suitablefor trip planning and many are suitable for cross-countrynavig ation.Some are available in a shaded relief version with contours. Shown on individual state and National Parks seriesindexes. USGSMap Ordering and Map-RelatedPr oducts U.S. GeologicalSurvey maps may bepurchased at many outdoor equipment shops, map shops, some book stores, or by mail-order. Generally, these shops will have a relatively small selection. USGS maps, map symbol sheets, map-related brochures, order forms and stateand series mapindexesfor theentirecountrymaybeordered from Map Distribution Section, U.S. Geological Survey, Denver Federal Center, Box 25286, Lakewood,CO 80225. The USGS is in the process of revising itsState map indexes; the former single-sheet state indexes have been replaced by three new products.1) Index to Topographicand Other Mapping Coverage - lists the names of all USGS maps (proposed and published). It also has numerous index maps to aid in locatingthe maps the usermight want topurchase.2)CatalogofTopographicand Other Published Maps-lists the maps that are published, retaildealers, and ordering information.3) Single-Sheet State Index that shows all 7.5-Minute Quadrangle Names. Theseproducts should be available for each state by the end of the year. To find out when new or revised USGS maps become available, have your name put on the mailing list to receivethe free,monthly New Publicationsof the GeologicalSurvey. Sendyour requestto Mailing List Unit, U.S. GeologicalSurvey, 582 NationalCenter, Reston, VA 22092. In addition to producing many map series, the USGS publishes many map-relatedbrochures. Someof the brochures that areof interest to hikersand climbers are listedbelow. 1. CATALOGOF MAPS- samplesof most USGSmap series. Explana­ tory text and ordering information is included. 2. TOPOGRAPHIC MAP SYMBOLS - shows symbols usedin several USGSmapseriesand givesdescriptionsofsomeUSGSmapsseries. 3. TOPOGRAPHICMAPS -brochureexpl ains how topographicmaps are made. Basicmap symbologyis discussed. 4. MAP SCALES - explains how scaleaffects informa tioncontent on maps. Single copiesof theseand most other USGSbrochures are available at no charge from the USGSMap Distribution Section;bulk orders must bepur chased. 78 TheMountaineer U.S. Forest Service The Forest Service is beginning to providetopographic maps that can beuseful tohikers and climbers. Specialty topographic mapsare available forsome National Wildernessareas and the PacificCrest Tr ail in Washington & Oregon; scaleof thesemaps varies.These specialty maps often contain a great deal of additional recreation information. Checkwith individual National ForestHeadquarters and Ranger Dis­ trictsoffices for availability. There is verylimited availability of black and white 7.5-minute Primary BaseSeries which use USGS maps as bases.In additionto standard USGSquadrangleinformation,this series may show updatedroad andtrail information (including ForestService road and trailnumbers) and campgroundlocations. (Updated informa­ tion mayormaynot beupto National Map AccuracyStandards.) Check with individual NationalForest Headquar ters officesfor availability. Washington StateDe parbnentof Natural Resources While Washington DNR is mainly engaged in producing mapsfor the purposeof resourcemanagement, it does producesome maps for usein recreation.Of particularnote to hikers is a new series ofmaps for StateForests and Multiple-UseAreas. These mapsare topographicand contain extensive road and trail information. At present, two maps in this seriesare available: Capitol StateForest and Tiger Mountain State Forest.They may beordered from the DNR Photo and Map SalesOffice, 1065 South Capital Way, Olympia, WA 98504. Canadian Maps The Canadian National government publishes several series of maps,of which the 1 :50,000,1 :250,000and National Parks seriesare of interestto hikers and climbers. Indexesand maps maybe ordered from the Canada Map Office, 615 Booth Street, Ottawa, Ontario KlA OE9. From the BritishColumbia government,the Provincial Parks, 1:100,000 series,and specialtymaps would beuseful. Indexes and maps forBritish Columbia can be obtained from: MAPS-B.C., Survey and Resource MappingBranch, Ministryof Environment and Parks, Parliament Build­ ings,Victoria, B.C. V8V lXS. Privately-Produced TopographicMaps Privately-producedrecreationmapshavebecomeincreasinglymore availableinthepast lOyears.Privatecompaniesusegovemment-made map bases(usually from the U.S. Geological Survey); updateroad, trail, and other information; and modify content to produce topographic mapsthat areaimed at recreational userssuch as hikers and climbers. They usually contain more up-to-date recreation information than government-produced maps. Coverage is generally restrictedto those areasthat are heavily usedby outdoorenthusiasts. Mapsfor Hikers and Climbers 79 Privately-prod uced maps are sometimes centere d on a specifi c feature such as a mountain, trailsystem, or park. Such a format can red uce the number of maps needed to be carried on a trip when comparedto the sta ndard quadrangle formatof US. GeologicalSurvey maps. A feature-centered fonnat cancause prob lems when splicing together severa l maps; especially when adjacent maps are of different scales. In most cases, pri vately-prod uced maps are of a smaller sheet si ze thanUSGSquadrangles; thi sisgenerally achi eved by red ucin gthemap scale. (Fora definition of mapsca le, seeGl ossa ry of SelectedMapp ing Terms.) Scale red ucti on is a trade-offan d can sometimes res ult in loss of detai l; contourli nes can run together when the scale isred uce d. Thi s usually is not an important considerati on fo r trail hiking, but can be important when traveling cross-m untry or cli mbing. Privately- produced topographic maps can generally be ob tained fromoutd oorequ ipment shops, map shops, somebook stores, an d by mail-order. There are currently fourma jorprod ucers of thesemap s for Washington state. They are: GreenTra ils Inc. PO Box 1932, Bothell, WA 98041 Covera ge: Olympi c Peninsula, Washingt on Cascades , & Northern Oregon Cascades. Scale: Varies;bu t most maps are at a scale of 1:69,500. Format: Mainly quadrangle format; somespec ial format. Speci al Features: Sho ws road& trail mileages,na mes , an d num­ bers. Newer maps show winter recre ati on trails an d have extensi ve trail an d campgroun d information tables on the reversesi de. Allma psin theseries wi llbe revi sed into clude thi s feature. DeLorrneMapping PO Box298 , Freeport,MA 04032 Covera ge: Washingt on St ate. (Also seeSpecial Features.) Scale: 1:150,000or 2.37 milesper inch. Format: Atlas form at; adjacent pages gen erally conform tothe quadranglefor mat of USGS1: 100,000-scale quadrangles. Speci al Featu res: Gazetteerof placesan d listingsof thingsto do. Speci al symbols on maps to loc at e recreati onal opportunities. DeLorrne also pu blishes similar atl ases forsev eral ot her states. Cust om CorrectMa ps 499 LittleRiver Road, Port Angeles, WA 98362 Covera ge: Olympic Peninsula. Scale: 15 maps 1:62,500 or 1 inch = approximately 1 mi le; 1 map 1:24 ,000 or 1 inch = 2,000feet . Format: feature-<:entered on trail sy st ems. Speci al Features: Shows road an d trail mi leages, names an d 80 TheMountaineer numbers.Shows majorand altemate(seasonal)clirnbingroutes. Overlapping coverage and generally consistent scale allows for easy joining or splicing of adjacent maps. Trails Illustrated TopoMaps PO Box 3610, Evergreen,CO 80439 Coverage: Olympic, North Cascades, and Mt. Rainier National Parks. (Alsosee Special Features.) Scale:varies. Format: featured centered on NationalParks. SpecialFe atures: Printed on tearproof,wate r-proofplastic. Shows trail names. Covers a National Park on one sheet.Tr ails Illus­ trated alsomakes maps for many areas in Utah and Colorado, for many other westernNational Parks, and for someeastern National Parks. OtherSources of Map Information There are other sourcesof maps and map information that can be of useto hikers and climbers.Map libraries and depositoriescan be found in manylargecitiesandatmanyuniversities.These mapcollectionscan be a valuable source of information for climbers and hikers who are planning trips out of their home area. (See Supplementary Reading.) While maps generally cannot bepurchased at thesefacilities, they can be studied. Trip Planning Maps form an importantpart of the tripplanning process.The user should al ways rememberthat no one map containsall the information needed for a trip. Annotate the maps to becarried with route descrip­ tionsand other neededinformation. On somemaps, it may be advisable to highlight ridge lines and climbing routes. The following are some guidelines to remember when involved in trippl �ng. 1. Obtain themost up-to-date editionof the maps you needfor your trip. Every government-produced map and some private maps contain a date of publication. Since these topographic maps are infrequently reprinted, road and trailinformation may have to be supplemented by othermaps. Locate the sourcesof publicly and privately-produced topographicmaps in your area. Checkwith the appropriate agency (such as the Park or Forest Service) for up-to­ dateroad,trail and climbing information. Allow plenty oflead time when ordering maps, especiallyfrom mail-order sources. 2. Get the bestscale of map for your type of trip. A large-scale map covers a small area, but shows terrain informationprecisely and in detail. This is importantfor determining climbing routesand cross­ country navigation. An intermediate- or small-scalemap shows a larger area, but shows less detail. A small-scalemap may be fine for a trip where the userwill stay on the trail. Mapsfo r Hikers and Climbers 81 3. Familiarize yourselfwith map symbology,information and text. Most maps have a legend or a symbol sheet. These should be studiedprior to the trip. Locate the declinationstatement or dia­ gram. Thisdiagram providesinformation on magneticdeclination (compass north) and true north (geographicnorth ). Unlessspeci fi­ cally shown, most maps are aligned sothe top of the sheetis true north. Study your proposedroute on the map; lookfor important land marks, alternateroutes, and potentialproblems. Glossaryof Selected MappingTerms contour interval- difference in elevationbetween two adjacent contour lines. contour line - an imaginary line that follows the ground at a consistent elevation abovesea level. large-scalemap - generally shows a relatively small area in greatdetail. (eg. a uses1 :24,000-scalemap) (large-scale,lots of detail!) map scale- the ratioof map distanceto actual ground distance. In other words, how much smaller the map is than the actual area of the earth that it represents. Scales may be shown in several ways: graphically,asa scalebar; verbally, suchas oneinchequalsonemile (1" = 5,280'), and as a fraction,1 /24,000or 1 :24,000(one unit on the map equals 24,000 units on the earth's surface). quad or quadrangle -a map that covers an area bounded by a specified interval of latitude and longitude. Some common quadrangle seriesare 7.5-minute and 15- minute. small-scalemap - it generally shows a large areawith little detail. (eg. a uses1 :250,000-scalemap.) (small-scale,scanty detail!) Supplementary Reading Cobb, David. Guide to U.S. Map Resources. Chicago: American Library Association, 1986. (Listings and descriptions of map libraries and depositories.) Dodd,K. Guideto Obtaining USGS Information,U.S. GeologicalSurve y Circular 900. Washington D.C.: U.S. Geological Survey, 1986. (Descriptions of usesproducts and services and how to obtain them.) Makower, Joel, Editor. The Map Catalog. New York: Vintage Books, 1986. (Descriptionsof many typesmaps of and addressesfor state, federal and foreignmap sources.) Miller, Victor C. & Westerback, Mary E. Interpretationof Topographic Maps.Columbus: Merrill Publishing Company, 1989. (Definitive text on interpreting contours. Appendiceson getting acquainted with topographicmaps and a glossaryof topographic terms.) 82 TheMounta ineer

MooreMof fat, Riley. MapIndex to Topographic Quadranglesof the United States 1882-1940.Santa Cruz: Western Associationof Map Librar­ ies, 1985. (Listingsof out-of-print usesmaps.) Muehrcke, Phillip.MapUse- Reading,Anal ysisand Interpretation.2nd ed. Madison: JP Publications, 1986. (Standard text for working with many types of maps.) Nicholson,N. & Sebert,L. The Mapsof Canada . Hamden, Conn: Archon Press, 1981. (Descriptions of maps produced by the Canadian Nationaland Provincialgovernmen ts.) Parry, R. & Perkins, C. World Mapping Today. London: Butterworths, 1987. (Descriptions of maps produced by most countries and addressesof the agencies producing them.) Thompson, M. Mapsfo r America. 3rd ed. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Geological Survey, 1987. (Descriptionsof modemmap making and guide to cartographicpr oductsof theU.S. GeologicalSurvey and other agencies.)

GREEN TRA ILS PO Box 1932, Bothell WA 9804 1 Mapsfor Hikers andClimbers 83

IceClimbers Susan Viles-Muzzy 84 TheMountaineer Climbing Notes

Compiledby John Roper

The followingpeaks are someof the more interesting or curiously obscure uncairnedsummits and new routeswe have come upon in the North Cascades during the hiatus of the MountaineerAnnual. Most climbs were pleasantnon-technical scrambles.The elevations areper the 7.5-minutequads which may differ fromthe elevationsassigned on the old 15-minute quads.

1983 Peak 8120+ (The One-Eyed Bull). 0.6 milesE of Spire Point (USGS Dome Peak). The face of the bull with its missing righteye is easily recognized from White Rock Lakes on the Ptarmigan Traverse. Via snow and gray ice up the N face to the west horn,then solidclass 4 rock on the highereast horn,with Russ Kroekerand Dick Kegel, 8/13. Peak 7647 (Ozymandias Peak). 05 mi. N of FreezeoutMtn. (USGS SkagitPeak). Via south screeslopes from Freezeout Creek with Mary Quinn, Steve Allaback, and Alex Medlicott, Jr., 8/25.

1984 Osceola Peak (Oscy Couloir-USGS Mount Lago). This was a pleasantnew route via a punch up a 45-50 degree800-foot snow chute on the north side, and a preferable alternative to the usual awful talus southapproach on the "peak thatis a cairn." With Russ Kroeker and Silas Wild, 7 /5. Peak 7274 (Silhouette Peak). The sharpestpeak on anunheralded ridge, 2.1 miles N of Devils Pass between Cinnamonand Shull Creeks (USGS Shull Mtn.). Soloover the top of Peak 7515 (Daemon Peak), also uncairnedbut surely visited before, 7 /28. Peak 6800+ (Lonely Peak). A pretty graniticpe ak between Lone­ someCreekandBerdeen Lake (USGSDamnation Peak). Via SW couloir with Steve Allaback, Alex G. Medlicott III, 8/20. Peak 6384 (North Big Bosom Butte). Northern most summit on "Skagit Range: (a double misnomer: it's simply a ridge, not a range, and it's not in the Skagit watershed), betweenSilesia creek and its WestFork (USGSMount Sefrit). Via a friable SW gully and ridge from Cleavage Col between the two buttes with Mark Allaback, 9 /28. The wood and wire remainsof the USGS'sfirst helicopter descentwere found.

1985 Robinson Mtn. (CrusoeCouloir-USGS RobinsonMtn.) Another Climbing Notes 85 nice hidden north side route on a big Pasaytenpeak. Via a 1000-foot, rock-hardsnow couloir, perhaps45 degrees,with ReedTindall, 6/16. Peak 8107 (Eagles Beak).The more challenging W summit of Mad EaglePeak, 0.6 miles NW of Mt. Redoubt.Some class 4 on the W ridge with Russ Kroeker, 7 /3. Peak 7326 (Alastor Mtn.)and Peak 7280+ (Xor Mtn.). Betweenthe headwaters of Pass and Cabin Creeks (USGS Mt. Lyall). With Mark Allaback, Steve Allaback, Alex Medlicott, Jr., and Mary Quinn, 8/13. Peak 7928 (HeatherPeak). Highestpoint on Heather Ridge (USGS Mt. Lyall). From theS, highon the W side and along the crest of this ridge,overPeak7800+(Cassia Peak).Someclass4,withMark Allaback, 8/13.

1986 Peak 8000+ (Ghost Peak). Joan Firey's peak between Crooked Thumb and Phantom (USGS Mt.Challenger). A new class 5 route was done diagonally across the W facewith Russ Kroekerand Silas Wild, 7 / 21. Peak 7800+(Tragedy Peak). Highestpeak on Sable Ridge (USGSMt. Lyall) with four nearly equal summit points, right above the Hilgard Creektrail where expertpacker Ray Courtneylost his life. From Holden Pass over talusslopes and gullies, with Mark Allaback on 9 /2.

1987 Peak 7529 (Baekos Peak). A double-summited peak 2.6 miles SSW of Glacier Peak (USGS Glacier Peak West). Class 3 on S slopes after crossing over the SE ridge from high above Baekos Creek with Mark Allaback and Carla Patopea, 6/27.

1988 Peaks 7080+through 6868(Quiet Ridge Peaks). Undescribedridge with six peaklets 3 milesS of DomePeak (USGSDome Peak) on S side of theupper forks of Sulphur Creekwith Mark Allaback, 8/7. Peaks 7078 through 7346 (Stonehenge Ridge). Thereare eight peaks on this ridge between Sulphurand Canyon Creeks(USGS DomePeak and Gamma Peak). Numbering fromthe east (Totem Pass), Stonehenge 8, 6, 4, 3, 2, had no evidence of previous ascenton a W to E cresttraverse involvingarappeloffStonehenge3withMarkAllaback,8/7.Stonehenge 5 is thehighest point, slightly higher than Stonehenge 6 (7362). Peak 6613 (Bolt Peak). Cute little horn between Lightning and Thunder Creeks (USGS Glacier Peak East). Via E ridge with Mark Allaback and Silas Wild, 8/14. Peak 7700+(Surnallo Peak). BetweenMt. Rideout andMt. Payne at 86 TheMountaineer the headwatersof theSumalloRiver (Canadian Skagit River Quad) with Mark Allaback, cautiously fromRideout, 8/18. 1989 Peak 7720+ (Butterfly Wing). A schist pyramid 1.2 miles SW of Butterfly Butte (USGSClark Mtn.). From the Napeequa River via the class 3+ E ridge with Rose Lochmann, 8/12. Luna Peak (Firstwinter ascent). Now assigned the highest elevation in the Pickets at 8311 (USGSMount Challenger). FromBig Beaverup Axes Creek to Luna Col then across theW face (avoiding the rickety S ridge) with one exposed moveat thetop requiringprotection with Silas Wild, Russ Kroeker, Paul Michelson,Jim Burcroff, 12/30. 1990 MemalooseRidge Peaks. Peaks 7265 and 7360+on the SE end of this ridge (USGSGoode Mtn. and McGregorMtn.) were uncai med. From GreenviewLakewithMarkAllaback,8/13.ThehighestPeak7520+had an old cairn but no register. Peak 8120+ (Hyeth Wyeth). This highest summit in the Wyeth Glacier Crags 0.6 miles E of Park Creek Pass (USGS Goode Mtn.)was climbed over one class 4 move via the S ridge with Mark Allaback, 8 / 15. Peak 8080+(Wyeth Not) just S was alsopreviously undone. Climbing Notes 87

RiverCrossing, West CoastTra il, Vancouver © Marie Mills/DavidCummings Island, Canada 88 TheMou ntaineer Mountaineer Outings

Mountaineer Outings19 84 Type Dates Area Leaders Alpine Scrambles Aug 4-12 GoatRocks Bill and Judi Maxwell Backpackers July 28-Aug 5 Whatcom Pass Tom Mogridge Backpackers Aug 18--Sept 1 Denali Nat'lPark JadGrand Teton NP Dick Erwood Retired Rovers Aug 2-8 Stevens Pass BobDreisbach Retired Rovers Aug 20-Sept 10 Canadian Rockies Connie & LouiseGrimes Singles June 27-July 1 EnchantedValley ScottBoone Singles July 7-15 Oregon Coast ScottBoone Foreign Mar 3-24 New Zealand E.ddieBoulton Foreign Mar 15-Apr l Austria PattiPolinsky Foreign Mar 31-Apr 29 Japan Dick& JoannWetmore Foreign Apr 25-May 8 Carribbean Islands Jim Lowe Foreign July 19-Aug 5 Austria Dave Oaar Foreign Sept 29-0ct 13 Tahiti Jim Lowe Mountaineer Outings19 85 Alpine Scramblers July 27-Aug 4 WenatcheeMountains BobDreisbach Oimbers Aug 3-11 C.ascade Crest NormWinn Nahrralists June 1-9 Oregon Marv Pistrang Naruralists July 13-21 PasaytenWilderness BobDreisbach Retired Rovers Mar 13-Apr 4 Death VllyAnza Borrego Jack Hossack Retired Rovers Sept4-18 F.astemOregon Jim Wasson Trail Maintenance July 20-27 OuwaukumMtns. DwightRi gg; Foreign Mar 14-31 Austria/Switzerland PattiPolinsky Foreign May 10-June 4 Ouna Paul Wiseman Foreign July 18--Aug4 Austria/Italy Dave Gaar Foreign Sept 27-0ct 13 GreekIslands Jim Lowe MountaineerOutings 1986 Bicycling June 20-July 6 New England Jim Johnson Naruralists July 17-31 Southeast Alaska John Warth Nahrralists July 19-27 Qader Peak Wild BobDreisbach Singles July 19-27 Mt Rainier Sharon Ellard Foreign Mar 13-30 Austria/Switzerland PattiPolinsky Foreign Oct 11-27 Japan Worth & Marian Gurley Foreign Oct 16-Nov 9 Nepal/Tibet Steve Estvanik Foreign Nov 15-30 Virgin Islands MarvWalter Mountaineer Outings 89 Mountaineer Outings 1987 Alpine Scrambles July 11-19 PasaytenWilderness BobDreisbach Alpine Scrambles July 12-26 Brooks Range - Alaska DennisLarson Backpackers July 18--26 Yoho National Park Dan Peters Backpackers July 25-Aug 2 Vancouver Island SteveCanson Backpackers Sept 12-20 Mt Hood Mike Kirshner Singles Aug lS--23 GlacierPeak Sharon Ellard Foreign Mar 12-29 Switzerland Patti Polinsky Foreign Apr 4-21 West Indies Jim Lowe Foreign Cxt10-Nov 29 Nepal/Burma Steve Estvanik Mountaineer Outings 1988 AlpineScrambles July 25-July 4 Gates ofArtie/ Alaska Dennis Larson AlpineScrambles July 9-17 Ilagle CapWilderness DennisLarson Alpine Scrambles July 15--18 Mt Shasta BobOteshine Backpackers Sept24-Cxt 2 Crater-Devil'sLoop John Witters Naturalists July 30-Aug7 PasaytenWilderness BobDreisbach Retired Rovers Sept17 -24 Holden Village Dorothy Bair Singles July 23-31 Hart's Pass-R05.5 Lake John Witters Singles Aug 13-21 Stevensto Snoq.Pass Sharon Ellard Foreign Mar 11-27 Switzerland PattiPolinsky Foreign Q:t13-Nov 21 Nepal/India SteveEstvanik Foreign Nov 24-Dec 11 French West Indies Jim Lowe MountaineerOut ings 1989 Alpine Scrambles July3-27 EllesmereIsland Dennis Larson Backpackers July 15--23 Pasayten wilderness Steve Callson Backpackers July 22-31 GladerPeak John Witters Backpackers Aug 26-29 PacificCrest Trail Jim Stevens Backpackers Aug 31-Sept5 GlacierPeak John Witters Naturalists July 26-Aug 2 GlacierPeak BobDreisbach Sailing June 10-17 CanadianSan Juans MarvWalter Singles June 26-29 EntiatValley ScottBoone Singles Aug 18--22 Crater-Devil's Loop John Witter Trail Maintenance July 18--27 PasaytenWilderness Tom Mogridge Foreign Mar 9-26 Switzerland PattiPolinsky Foreign Dec23-Jan 7 LeewardIslands Marv Walter MountaineerOu tings 1990 AlpineScrambles July 21-29 BritishColumbia DennisLarson Backpackers June 23-30 Blankenship Lakes Mike Kirshner Backpackers July 4-8 Corral Lake John Witters Backpackers July 28--Aug5 BaileyRange John Witters Backpackers Aug 4-12 WonderlandTrail Robin Black Backpackers Aug 30-Sept 4 Lk LaCrosse-O'Neil Ps John Witters Backpackers Sept 8-16 Lyman Lk-Image Lk Tom Mogridge Naturalists July 28--Aug 4 SawtoothRidge Bob Dreisbach Retired Rovers Aug 20-27 Mt. Baker Lodge Jeanne Goings Sailing June 16-23 CanadianSan Juans Marv Walter Trail Maintenance July 14-22 Pasayten Wilderness Tom Mogridge Foreign Mar 15--Apr 1 Switzerland Patti Polinsky Foreign Aug 29-Sept 12 Dolomites-Italy BevDahlin 90 The Mountaineer The MountaineersConserva tion Division

Norm Winn

1984was a watershed year forThe Mountaineers and the environ­ mentalmovement in Washington. Asa result ofvigorousand sustained efforts by The Mountaineers,many dub members,and other environ­ mental organizations,Congress passed the 1984 Washington Wilder­ ness Act, which added more than one million acres to Wilderness, scenic highway corridors and other protected categories. The Moun­ taineers' intimateknowledge of recreationareas andrecrea tion issues was particularlyhelpful inestablishingthe boundariesof the numerous Wildernessadditions. The ConservationDivision workedclosely with MountaineerBooks in publishing thelarge, picture formatbook Was h­ ington Wilderness.The book was givento each memberof the Washing­ ton delegation and other key members of Congress. The book im­ pressed all of the legislators and had a majorimpact in the passage of the bill. Washington Wilderness is one of the few books prominently displayed in the private office of House SpeakerTom Foley. All of the National Forestsin Washington completedten year forest plans in thelate 1980sas requiredby law. The Mountaineersand other environmental organiz.ations participated actively in that planning processand submitted detailed commentson thedraft plans. Many of the plans, particularly the Mount Balcer Snoqualmie National Forest Plan, weresignificantly improved in final formasa resultof comments from environmental organiz.ations and activists. The continued overcuttingof theforests beyond the sustainable yield was a majorissue which was not adequately addressed in the forestplans. Othermajor issues concerned watershed protection, inadequate wildlife habitat, inadequate funding for trails, undue emphasis on ORV trails, and failuretosetasidehabitatforspotted owland otherendangered species as requiredby law. Severalof the forestplans have beenappealed, and The Mountaineersis a participant ina number of those appeals.1990 In a federaljudge in Seattleruled that U.S. Fish and WildlifeService was required to list the spotted owl as an endangered species. The U.S. Forest Serviceselected a panel of distinguishedscientists, headed by Dr. Jack Ward Thomas, to determine what stepswere necessaiy to protect the viability of the spotted owl as a permanent species. The Thomas Reportconcluded thatthe ForestService should setup habitatconser­ vationareas approximately3,500 acresin siz.efor pairs of spottedowls inordertoensurethattheowlswouldsurvive.TheeffectofTheThomas Reportwas to close manyareas of the nationalforests to loggingand to stop manyplanned timbersales. Members of Congress wereurged to passlegislation that would setaside areasfor wildlife habitat,including Conseroation Division 91 the spotted owls, and release other areas for timber harvesting. 1be Mountaineersworked closely with other majorronservation organiza­ tions and effectively lobbied the Congressional delegation to pass legislation.No legislation was passedin 1990,but there is a possibility that legislationwill be passedin 1991. 1990was the 20th anniversary of Earth Day. The Mountaineers participated in a giantEarth Day Rally at MaryrnoorPark. Thousands of citizens visited The Mountaineerbooth and received information about The Mountaineers programs and conservation activities. An­ otherEarth Day Rally is plannedfor April20, 1991.The Mountaineers alsoco-sponsored an Ancient ForestsRally in November 1990which featuredDavid Brower, famous environmentalist and formerlyExecu­ tive Directorof the Sierra Oub. The program received extensiveT.V. and mediacoverage andfocused attention ancienton the forests issue. The ConservationDivision worked closelywith Mount aineerBooks on another large, picture format book, Washington's Wild Rivers. The bookhas beenwidely praisedand is part of TheMountain eers'lobbying effortsto obtain a federal wild rivers bill. In 1990 theConservation and OutdoorDivisions jointly hireda full timestaff person as IssuesCoord inator. This additional staffcapability permits more outreach to members and more effectivecoor dination with other environmentalorganizations. The Mountaineershas beena leaderin protectingthe environment since the club was formedin 1906.Someenvironmental themes arenew, such as concernabout haz.ardous waste and energyronservation. Other issues, such as protectionof our nationalforests and parksand enjoying the recreationopportunities of the Northwest, have continued over the years.Thanks to the leadershipand volunteerparticipation many of of our members, The Mountaineers remains a leading environmental force in the Northwest and continues to "preserve and protect the beautyof NorthwestAmer ica."

LeeMcKee 92 TheMountaineer President's Reports

De1 Fadden 1984-1985 In retrospect,the years 1984and 1985marked two significantevents that altered previous directionsfor the Club. The first of thesewas a law suit aimed at MountaineersBooks and the secondwas the transferof the undevelopedportion of the RhododendronPreserve to the Mountain­ eers Foundation. The law suit involved a personwho had beeninjured while hiking. The claim was that the injured partyhad learnedabout the specific hike from one of our guidebooks and that the guidebookdid not provide sufficientwarning about the hazardsof this particular hike. The Board believed that there wasindeed ample warningand furthermore that a finding against the Club might jeopardizethe publicationof any future guidebooks.We initiated a vigorousand expensivecampaign aimedat preparing a strong defense.Before the suit was brought to trial it was droppedby the party who had initiated it in the first place. There were several lessons learned. Arguably the most irritating was that under Washington law a suit of this naturecould bebrought and then dropped without having any means of recoveringthe costs of preparing a defense. Books must include consideration of such a possibility in the future. The other key lesson was that the attention which has been paid to researching and verifying the data in our guidebooksis absolutelyessential for us to continue in this field. The transfer of the bulk of the Rhododendron Preserve to the Foundation sparked considerable discussion and some controversy. The fundamental objective of'the transferwas to provide more protec­ tion for the preservationof the land in itsnatural statethan was possible throughtheClub.Thetransferincludedhighlyrestrictiveconstraintson all future useof the property.Because of theseconstraints the Founda­ tion subsequently received additional donations of land within or adjacentto the Preserve.Another reasonfor the transferwas to make it possiblefor peopleto donate money for the purchaseof additional land, while obtaining tax advantages associated with charitable contribu­ tions. This alsohas worked to the benefitof the Preserveby generating funds for thepurchase of key land around the Preserve.At the timeof the transfer there was concern that the Foundation did not have the resourcesto beable to manage the Preserve.The Foundation has in fact managed the property aggressivelyand has been highly successful in extending and completing this valua_ble lowland wilderness. President's Reports 93 Bill Maxwell 1986-1987 1986 saw our club swimming in a sea ofred ink and became the major focus for the next two years. Sometimesthat which appears to be freecarries aheavy burden. Such was the casewith our new clubroom which was acquired in a trti.de. We were unprepared to meet the $160,000 annual operating cost just to keep a much larger clubroom door open. Not knowing what fatehad in store, the next 15 months was spent tryingto operatethe clubroom in its traditional fashion with a restau­ rant, room rentals and catering. After many failuresand thousandsof volunteer hours in making the building marketable and running a restaurant,it was obvious we neither had the time,stomach or ability to manage the business, and it was fazed out. Based on an excellent optimal building usestudy preparedby Dianne Hoff, it was decidedto limit our clubroombusiness to roomrentals with supportfrom outside caterers.This plan was enhancedby business manager, Sue Justen, to include a small deli with beerand wine service.This was the beginning of what was to becomea successfulclubroom operation. During the height of the crisis, CarstenLien and I formeda very close team toplan a strategy to extract the club from itsfinancial mess.We decidedright away that we werea large federation of specialinterest volunteerswho joinedto have fun and werenot prepared to operatethe club with the required businessdiscipline. Together we developed a four-year strategy that would restructure the club to better serve its membersand includeda financialturn around plan, strategic planning process,bylaws change which allowedthe Boardof Trusteesto estab­ lish duesand fees,written businessplans, membershipsurvey, officer successionplan and establishedan ExecutiveDirectorposi tion. If all this wasn't enough, we traumatized the membership with two significant duesincreases and a releaseand indemnificationagreement. Other memorable eventsinclude DonGraydon' s transformation of the Mountaineer Bulletininto a morereadable and interestingmaga­ zine format with a full page picture cover. MountaineersBooks, under the leadership of Jim Miller and DonnaDeS hazo, achieved a $1,000,000 in sales---a milestone. Sue Justen, long-time club Business Manager, soughta new careeropportunity and was replacedwith the club's first ExecutiveDirector, Virginia Felton. It is doubtful that our club has facedgreater peril and more change than during this two-year period.However, we now have the business foundationto enhanceour growth formany years to come. 94 TheMountaineer carsten Lien 1988-1989 Decades of failure to examine the internal structural flaws in the Mountaineerorganization finally led to catastrophiclosses of $120,000 a year forthe club at the start of Bill Maxwell's tenure as president.I was vice president. Bothof us recognized,having come from management backgrounds,that we had a short fouryears ahead to beginthe process of bringingThe Mountaineersinto a new and different relationship to itselfinternally or it would not survive. Oneof the most importantof those moveswas made with the hiring of an executivedirector at the moment I became presidentof theclub. Much remainedto bedone but thetask would now be easier for me and forall future presidentswith the professional support and staffsuper­ vision that would beavailable. Volunteerscan do many things but one thing volunteerscannot do is run businesses.Getting the building into the hands of professional management, with rental goals and accountability, was a move that began to pay off immediately. Opening the deli to retain our liquor licensehad the potentialfor eventually paying offand it now is. Finally the building beganto becomean assetto the clul:>----apotential it had all along. MountaineerBooks by this time was a million dollar business that was locked into an admixture of volunteerism and professional man­ agement.The orderly flow of manuscriptsinto the business for possible publicationwas dependent on the availability of volunteersfor reading and passingjudgmen t. In addition, the MountaineerBoard, selectedby the membership forevery conceivable reason except running a book business,was enmeshedin itsdaily operations.All of thishad occurred, notby design but bythe defaultthat come fromdecades of inattention to the issuesor what was happeningto the club. Whenit all shook down, the board ended up in a policy setting relationshipto MountaineerBooks, where every boardought to be. The volunteersendedup ina specialbooks board relationship to provide the directioneverymanagementgrouprequires.This groupcan beselected forthe expertise that runninga business requires. Whatbecame clear to everyone closeto the dramatic restructuring and otherchanges that the club was undergoing, was that the existing bylaws no longerserved theneed of the club at all. Adopted in 1915 whentheclu bconsistedof a tinygroup of localclimbers, they werenow beingcalled uponto serve anorgani zationof nearly 12,000with a paid staffof 15, and two million dollar businesses.The bylaws could not be expected to work and they didn't. New bylaws were drafted, workedover by theboard and submitted to themembership which voted approval with a 96 percentvote. President's Reports 95

KarenSykes

Volunteer boards are especially vulnerable to memory problems and the MountaineerBoard is no exception.The boardhad no way to retrieve its policiesand actions of the past and was therefore always in the uncomfortable position of having no memory. In an era when litigationlurks around every comer in the operationof everybusiness and every activity this had become untenable. Tiris was solved by creatinga codified boardpolicy manual which canbe easily maintained on an on-going basis. The board now has the increased power that comes from knowingwhat it has done. Tiris was an era of enormouschange in theclub. Driven by the absolutenecessity for it, the Mountaineerorganization came through with flying colors. It is now equipped to face the21st century, now nearly at hand, with the structural tools thatbefi t an up and coming organization of 12,000members. 96 TheMountaineer Club Leadership: 1983-1990 Officersand Boardof Trustees 1983 Officers President ...... Errol Nelson Vice President ...... Del Fadden Secretary ...... Dave Enfield Treasurer ...... Neva Karrick Boardof Trustees Roger Andersen Del Fadden Paul Wiseman Dick Barden Duncan Kelso Ken Wilcox (Bellingham) Dorothy Curren Ray Nelson Steve Kieffer (Everett) Peggy Ellis PattiPolinsky Oaar Gloria Ford (Olympia) Dave Enfield Paul Robisch Von Kays (Tacoma) Dick Erwood Norm Winn 1984 Officers President ...... Del Fadden Vice President...... Helen Engle Secretary ...... Paul Robsich Treasurer ...... Roger Anderson Boardof Trustees Roger Andersen Maury Muzzy Paul Wiseman Dorothy Curren Errol Nelson Ken Wilcox (Bellingham) Peggy Ellis Ray Nelson Jack Bennett(Everett) Paul Gauthier Patti Polinsky-Gaar Stew Wright (Olympia) Neva Karrick Paul Robisch Maxine Carpenter (Tacoma) Duncan Kelso Norm Winn 1985 Officers President ...... Del Fadden Vice President ...... Bill Maxwell Secretary...... Duncan Kelso Treasurer ...... Neva Kerrick Boardof Trustees Roger Anderson Errol Nelson John Milnor (Bellingham) Peggy Ellis Patti Polinsky-Gaar Mike Pinneo(Everett) Paul Gauthier MargaretSchweifler-Miller Randy Nelson (Olympia) Duncan Kelso David Tuer Maxine Carpenter (Tacoma) O,errieMann Norm Winn Maury Muzzy Paul Wiseman 1986 Officers President ...... Bill Maxwell Vice President ...... Carsten Lien Secretary ...... Patti Polinsky-Gaar Treasurer ...... Ray Nelson Boardof Trustees Roger Andersen Ray Nelson Ken Wilcox (Bellingham) Lisa Beineke Patti Polinsky-Gaar Mike Pinneo(Everett) Paul Gauthier M. Schweifler-Miller Arlene Mills (Olympia) Dianne Hoff Frank Sincock George Smith (Tacoma) Maury Muzzy David Tuer O,erriMann-Turnbull Paul Wiseman Club Leadership 97 1987 Officers President ...... Bill Maxwell Vice President ...... Carsten Lien Secretary...... Patti Polinsky-Gaar Treasurer ...... Ray Nelson Boardof Trustees Tom Allen Judy Ramberg Steve Albright (Bellingham) Lisa Beineke Margaret Schweifler-Miller Dana Miller (Everett) Bob Burns Frank Sincock Arlene Mills (Olympia) Paul Gauthier David Tuer Ruth Rockwood (Tacoma) Dianne Hoff Gerri Turnbull Jim Jung Paul Wiseman 1988 Officers President ...... Carsten Lien Vice President ...... Dianne Hoff - Secretary ...... Jim Jung Treasurer...... Sharon Rowley Board of Trustees Tom Allen Jim Jung Paul Wiseman Lisa Beineke KatieKelso Steve Albright (Bellingham) Bob Burns Bill Maxwell Dana Miller (Everett) Paul Gauthier Judy Ramberg Tom Whitney (Olympia) Dianne Hoff Frank Sincock Ruth Rockwood (Tacoma) 1989 Officers President ...... Carsten Lien Vice President ...... Dianne Hoff Secretary ...... Jim Jung Treasurer ...... Sharon Rowley Boardof Trustees Tom Allen Bill Maxwell Bob Davis (Bellingham) BobBurns Judi Maxwell Stan Kostka (Everett) BevDahlin Judy Ramberg Tom Whitney (Olympia) Dianne Hoff Margaret Schweifler-Miller Ruth Rockwood (Tacoma) Jim Jung Frank Sincock Katie Kelso Paul Wiseman 1990 Officers President...... Dianne Hoff Vice President ...... Don Heck Secretary ...... Bob Burns Treasurer ...... JeffHancock Board of Trustees BobBurns Carsten Lien BobDavis (Bellingham) Dave Oaar Jim Lowe Don Heck (Everett) BevDahlin Judi Maxwell Darlene Septelka/Jim EychanerI Marcia Hansen Jim Miller Ed Henderson (Olympia) Dianne Hoff MargaretSchweifler-Miller Ruth Rockwood (Tacoma) Katie Kelso Frank Sincock Rick Rutz Paul Wiseman 98 TheMount aineer

Summit of Mt. Ellinor, Paul Wiseman,Leader Rosie Bodein Club Leadership 99 CommitteeChairpersons and Branch Officers Property Division 1983 DivisionChairman ..... Royce Natoli Kitsap Preserve.. Com RayPuddicome Everett Branch KitsapCabin ...... Chuck Oark,Carol Chairman...... Fred Rose Guthrie ViceChairman ...... JenyCrofoot Players ...... RalphPowers Secretary ...... Wayre Laabs Meany Ski Hut ...... LeeHelser Treasurer...... Douglas Watkins Mount Baker Lodge ... Jim Kurtz Olympia Branch SnoqualmieLodge ..... Robert Youngs, Gary Chairman ...... Tom Whitney Schweers ViceChairman ...... Ron Towle Stevens Lodge ...... Tom Hansen Secretary ...... JeanneRickey Conservation Division Treasurer...... Grace Teague DivisionChairwoman Jo Roberts Tacoma Branch Mountaineers Books Chairman...... BruceBecker Management Board VicePresident ...... Frank Breen Secretary ...... RuthRockwood Chairman...... Max Hollenbeck Treasurer...... DeniseJohnson Editorial Review ChairPeggy Ferber Manager ...... DonnaDe5hai.o Advisory/Special Committees The Mountaineers Foundation Archivist ...... Karyl Winn FinancialAdvisory ..... eva Kenick President ...... Frank Fickelsen LegalAdvisory ...... William Rives LioraryAdvisory ...... EdVervoort 1984 OutdoorDivision DivisionChairman ..... Chuck l.aughney Bellingham Branch AlpineScramblers ...... Bill Maxwell Chairman...... ChuckWaugh Backpacking ...... Walt Bowser ViceChairman ...... John Milnor Bicycling...... Dick & JoAnn Secretary ...... Carol Waugh Wetmore Treasurer...... SteveAlbright Campcrafters ...... Ethyl & Howard Everett Branch McNeely Chairman...... Fred R06e Evelyn & Don ViceChairman ...... JenyCrofoot Nickerson Secretary ...... Jim Eychaner Canoe and Kayak ...... John Vras ir p Treasurer...... DouglasWatkins Oimbing ...... Paul Gauthier FamilyActivities ...... MaryAnn Cameron Olympia Branch FirstAid ...... MikeBryg Chairman...... Arlene Mills MRC Rep ...... TamaraMcCollum Vice Chairman...... Roy Teague Naturalists ...... Rodgerlliingworth, Secretary ...... CharleneGudmunds RobertTaylor Treasurer...... RonTowle Nordic Skiing ...... Lucile Townsend Tacoma Branch OutingCooroinator ... Bill 2.auche Chairman...... FrankBreen Retired Rovers ...... Arch Wright Chairman-elect ...... Doug Schafer Safety...... Jan Carli� Secretary ...... RuthRockwood Sailing ...... Chuck Gustafson Treasurer...... Jim Olp Singles Activities ...... RodgerHerbst Ski Mountaineering.... Norm K06ky Advisory/Special Committees Snowshoe ...... Trudy Lalonde Archivist ...... KarylWinn Trail Trips ...... CindyCallahan Audit ...... Dick Erwood Trail Maintenance ...... Dwight Riggs Legal Advisory ...... William Rives Library Advisory ...... Ed Vervoort Indoor Division Division Chairman..... Ted Bradshaw OutdoorDi vision Annual ...... Marilyn Doan,Jean Division Chairman ..... Chuck l.auidmev- Skamser( co-editors) AlpineScramblers ...... Bill MaxweTi Art ...... Ann McMenamin Backpacking ...... Walt Bowser Bulletin ...... Ted Bradshaw Bicycling...... RogerAasen Oimbing ...... Roy Ellis (acting) Dance ...... Charles Vail Family Activities ...... LauraFooter DinnerMeetings ...... BarbaraRasmusson, First Aid ...... Mike Bryg DorisSnow MRC Rep ...... TamaraMcCollum Membership ...... Cherri Mann Naturalists ...... Rodgerlliingworth Museum...... Noreen Edwards Nordic Skiing ...... Steve Estvanik Photography ...... 0. Phillip Dickert OutingCoordinator ... Bill 2.auche 100 MountaineerThe

RetiredRovers ...... MauryMuzzy Legal Advisory ...... William Rives Sailing ...... Chuck Gustafson Library Advisory...... F.dVervoort SinglesActivities ...... RodgerHerbst OutdoorDivision Ski Mountaineering.... Norm Kosky Division Chairman ..... F.d Vervoort Snowshoe...... Dave Wright Alpine Scramblers ...... Jan Carline Trail Trips ...... Vince& BaroBrown Backpacking ...... Walt Bowser Trail Maintenance...... VivianeTaylor Bicyding...... Win Carlson Indoor Division Oimbing ...... Bruce Pond Division Chairman ..... Ted Bradshaw Family Activities ...... Laura Footer Art ...... Ann McMenamin First Aid ...... Carol SueCarline Bulletin ...... DianneHoff MRC Rep ...... Craig Dupler Dance ...... CharlesVail Naturalists ...... JoeToy nbee Dinner Meetings...... Marge Beatty Nordic Skiing ...... Steve Fstvanik Membership ...... KatieKelso OutingCoordinator ... Bill 2.auche Museum ...... Ann Hulit Retired Rovers ...... MauryMuzzy Photography...... Nils Sundquist Sailing ...... Chuck Gustafson PropertyDivision SinglesActivities ...... RodgerHerbst Division Chairman..... Royce Natoli Ski Mountaineering.... Norm Kosky KitsapCoordinator .... Oyde Rin�tad Snowshoe...... Dave Wright Players ...... DickKahler, Bill Trail Trips ...... Charlie Thompson Loeffler Trail Maintenance ...... Helga Byhre Meany Ski Hut ...... Lee Helser TrailsCoord inating.... Ruth Ittner Mount Baker Lodge ... Jim Kurtz Indoor Division Snoqualmie Lodge ..... RobertYoun�, Gary DivisionChairwoman Dianne Hoff Schweers Bulletin...... Dave Ther Stevens Lodge...... Tom Hansen Dance ...... BobDreisbach Conservation Division Dinner Meetings ...... Marge Beatty DivisionChairwoman Jo Roberts Membership ...... KatieKelso Museum ...... Uli Haller Mountaineers Books Photography...... Nils Sundquist Management Board Property Division Chairman...... Max Hollenbeck Division Chairman..... CarstenLien Editorial ReviewChair Peggy Ferber Kitsap Coordinator .... Oyde Rin�tad Manager ...... Donna DeShazo Players ...... Dick Kahler, Bill TheMountaineers Foundation Loeffler President ...... Frank Fickelsen MeanySki Hut ...... LeeHelser Mount Baker Lodge ... Jim Kurtz Snoqualmie Lodge ..... RobertYoun�, Gary 1985 Schweers Stevens Lodge ...... Tom Hansen Bellingham Branch Conservation Division Chairman...... GerryMcPhail Division Chairwoman Jo Roberts Vice Chairman...... Ken Wilcox Secretary ...... KarenNeubauer Mountaineers Books Treasurer...... SteveAlbright ManagementBoard Everett Branch Chairman...... Max Hollenbeck Chairman ...... Jim Eychaner F.ditorialReview Chair Paul Robisch Vice Chairman...... JerryCrofoot Manager ...... Donna DeShazo Secretary ...... DianeDuffy TheMountaineers Foundation Treasurer...... Brian Dale President ...... JoAnne Roberts Olympia Branch Chairman ...... Arlene Mills Vice Chairman...... Bill Busacca 1986 Secretary ...... CharleneGudmunds Treasurer...... Ron Towle BellinghamBranch Chairman...... KarenNeubauer Tacoma Branch ViceChairman ...... Mel Barringer Chairman ...... DougSchafer Secretary ...... Ken Wilcox Chairman-i!lect ...... Lamy Heggernes.s Treasurer...... SteveAlbright Secretary ...... Mary Mauennan Everett Branch Treasurer...... Jim Olp Chairman...... Jim Eychaner Advisory/Special Committees Vice Chairman...... Sam McOary Archivist ...... Karyl Winn Secretary ...... DianneDuffy Audit ...... DickErwood Treasurer...... Brian Dale Budget ...... Neva Kerrick Club Lea.dership 101

Olympia Branch Chairman...... Jamer Lange 1987 Vice Cllairman...... Jim Wilson Secretary ...... NancyWright BellinghamBranch Treasurer...... Jack Baird Chairman ...... Ken Wilcox Vice Chairman...... Bany Uhlman Tacoma Branch Secretary ...... KatyVelasquez Chairman...... LanyHeggemess Treasurer...... Sandy Henderson Chainnan�ect ...... Stan Engle Secretary ...... DonSchmidt Everett Branch Treasurer...... BobSteiner Chairman ...... DonHeck Vice Chairman...... Mike Beeman Advisory/Special Committees Secretary ...... StanKostka Archivist ...... KarylWinn Treasurer...... Dennis Miller Audit ...... Roger Anderson LegalAdvisory ...... William Rives Olympia Branch libraryAdvisory ...... KathyLefferts Chairman...... Chris Hansen ViceCh airman...... Bill Chamberland Secretary ...... GraceTeague Outdoor Division Treasurer...... Jack Baird Division Chairman..... E.dVervoort AlpineScramblers ...... Jan Carline Tacoma Branch Backpacking ...... Jim & Karen McBride Chairman...... BobSteiner Bicycling...... Win Carlson Advisory/Special Committees Oimbing ...... DianneHoff Archivist ...... Karyl Winn Family Activities ...... I.auraStrehlau Audit ...... Steve Albright FirstAid ...... Carol Sue Carline Budget ...... Bill Maxwell MRC Rep ...... Craig Dupler Insurance ...... Jim Jung Naturalists ...... JoeToynbee Legal Advisory ...... William Rives Nordic Skiing ...... Bryan C. Scott libraryAdvisory ...... KathyLefferts OutingCoordinator ... Bill Zauche OutdoorDivision RetiredRovers ...... Dick Erwood Division Chairman ..... ErhardWichert Sailing ...... Jean Muir AlpineScramblers ...... Tom Merritt SinglesActivities ...... Valerie Nelson Backpacking ...... Mike Kirshner, Dan SkiMountaineering .... Ted Reyhner Peters Snowshoe ...... Dave Wright Bicycling...... Win Carlson Trail Trips ...... Charlie Thompson Oimbing ...... Myrna Plum Trail Maintenance ...... Helga Byhre Family Activities ...... Cindy Callahan Trails Coordinating .... Ruth Ittner FirstAid ...... SharonEllard Indoor Division MRC Rep ...... Vera Dewey Division Chairwoman Rhea Natoli Naturalists ...... JoeToynbee Bulletin...... David Ther Nordic Skiing ...... BryanC. Scott Dance ...... NancyTomlinson OutingCoordinator ... Bill Zauche Membership ...... Katie Kelso RetiredRovers ...... Malcolm Post Photography ...... Nils Sundquist Sailing ...... Jean Muir PropertyDivision Singles Activities ...... David Hills Di vision Chairman ..... Carstenlien Ski Mountaineering .... TedReyhner KitsapCoord inator .... Clyde Ringstad Snowshoe ...... Mary Sutliff Players ...... Mark Jensen,Lorinda Trail Trips ...... Jack Grumblatt Esposito Trail Maintenance ...... Helga Byhre Meany Ski Hut ...... Paul Bergman Trails Coordinating .... Ruth Ittner Mount Baker Lodge ... Jim Kurtz Young Mountaineers . DarrellScattergood SnoqualmieLodge ..... RobertYoungs, Gary Indoor Division Schweers Division ChairwomanRhea Natoli StevensLodge ...... Tom Hansen Annual Banquet ...... Jim Eychaner Conservation Division Dance ...... Virginia Reid Division Chairwoman BevDahlin Membership ...... Katie Kelso Museum ...... Mary-Thadia d'Hondt MountaineersBooks Photography ...... Nils Sundquist Management Board The Mountaineer...... DonGraydon Chairman ...... Jim Miller Property Division E.ditorialReview ChairPaul Robisch Division Chairman..... BobGrass Manager ...... DonnaDeSharo KitsapCoordinator .... Oyde Ringstad TheMountaineers Foundation Players ...... Mary Duckering President ...... JoAnne Roberts Meany Ski Hut ...... Paul Bergman Mount Baker Lodge ... Jim Kurtz 102 The Mountaineer

SnoqualmieLodge ..... RobertYoungs, Gary Dance ...... Ralph Federspiel Schweers Membership ...... Katie Kelso Stevens Lodge...... Roland Garnper Photography ...... Nils Sundqtrist ConservationDivi sion The Mountaineer...... DonGraydon DivisionChairwoman Bev Dahlin Property Division Mountaineers Books Division Chairman ..... BobGrass KitsapCoordinator .... Clyde Ringstad Management Board Players ...... Mary Duclcering Chairman...... Jim Miller Meany Ski Hut ...... Ray Nelson F.ditorialReview Chair Paul Robisch Mount BalcerLodge ... Jim Kurtz Manager ...... Donna DeShaw Snoqualmie Lodge ..... Robert Youngs, Gary The Mountaineers Foundation Schweers President ...... MorrisMoen Stevens Lodge ...... Lynn Thompson Conservation Division Di vision Chairwoman Bev Dahlin 1988 MountaineersBooks Bellingham Branch Management Board Chairman...... Bob Davis Chairman ...... Jim Miller ViceChairman ...... Alan Doud F.ditorial Review Chair Paul Robisch Secretary ...... Katy Velasquez Manager ...... Donna DeShaw Treasurer...... Sandy Henderson The MountaineersFoundation Everett Branch President ...... Morris Moen Chairman...... Don Heck Vice Chairman...... ForrestClark Secretary ...... Gail Mc.Clary 1989 Treasurer...... StanKostka Bellingham Branch Olympia Branch Chairman...... Chris Hansen Chairman...... FredWagner ViceChairman ...... Les Kramer Vice Chairman...... Judi Joyner Secretary ...... TerryCanfield Secretary ...... Katy Velasquez Treasurer...... Tom Keller Treasurer...... SandyHenderson Tacoma Branch Everett Branch Chairman ...... DonSchmidt Chairman ...... DonHeck Chairman-elect ...... Jim Olp Vice Chairman...... ForrestClark Secretary ...... Carol Roth Secretary ...... LarryLongl ey Treasurer...... JoeCummings Treasurer...... StanKostka Advisory/Special Committees Olympia Branch Audit ...... Dianne Hoff Chairman...... Les Kramer Budget ...... Sharon Rowley Vice Chairman...... Jim Patrick Secretary ...... Diane Hyatt libraryAdvisory ...... Kathy Lefferts Outdoor Division Treasurer...... Tom Keller Tacoma Branch Division Chairman..... ErhardWichert AlpineScramblers ...... Tom Merritt Chairman ...... Jim Olp Baclcpacking...... Mike Kirshner, Dan Chairman-elect ...... GregFisher Peters Secretary ...... Pat Malcom Treasurer...... Everette Shaw Bicycling...... GregHuber . Canoe & Kayak...... Rick Anderson Advisory/SpecialCommittees Oimbing ...... Ken Small Archives ...... KarylWinn FirstAid ...... SharonEllard Audit ...... Jim Jung Naturalists ...... Virginia LaPre, Irene Budget ...... SharonRowl ey Peters Legal ...... William Rives Nordic Slciing...... Carol Iversen library Advisory...... Evelyn Peaslee OutingCoordinator ... Bill 2.auche Risk Management ...... Bill Maxwell RetiredRovers ...... Malcolm Post Outdoor Division Sailing ...... Lorin Daggett Division Chairman..... Glenn Eades SinglesActivities ...... David Hills AlpineScramblers ...... Marty Mullin SkiMountaineering .... Jim Cade Backpacking ...... Tom Mogridge Snowshoe...... Gordon Ellison Bicycling ...... Bonnie Scott Trail Trips ...... Sue Olsen Canoe & Kayak ...... BeverlyWagner Trail Maintenance...... Helga Byhre Oimbing ...... Ken Small Trails Coordinating .... Ruth Ittner Family Activities ...... CindyCallahan, Indoor Division Archie Wright DivisionChairw oman Rhea Natoli FirstAid ...... SharonEllard Club Leadership 103

Naturalists ...... Virginia LaPre, Irene Advisory/Special Committees Peters Archives ...... KarylWinn Nordic Skiing...... Carol Iversen Audit ...... Jim Jung OutingCoordinator ... Bill Zauche Budget ...... SharonRowl ey Retired Rovers ...... Malcolm Post Library ...... Evelyn Peaslee Sailing ...... Lorin Daggett Risk Management ...... Bill Maxwell SinglesActivities ...... David Duke, Alan Marx OutdoorDivision Ski Mountaineering .... Jim Cade Division Chairman..... Glenn Eades Snowshoe...... GordonEllison AlpineScramblers ...... MartyMullin Trail Trips ...... Sue Olsen Backpacking ...... Tom Mogridge Trail Maintenance ...... Helga Byhre Bicycling...... BonnieScott Trails Coordinating .... RuthIttner Kayak ...... Joan Bakken Indoor Division Oimbing ...... Tom Muir FirstAid ...... SharonEllard Division Chairwoman RheaNatoli Hikes ...... Sue Edson Banquet...... Lynn Lively MidweekHikes ...... Trudy Ecob Dance ...... DeniseLeclairl Naturalists ...... VirginiaLaPre, Irene Membership ...... Jack McCafferty Peters Museum ...... Rhea Natoli (Acting) Nordic Skiing ...... Tim McGuigan Photography ...... Pat Dobson OutingCoordinator ... Bill Zauche The Mountaineer...... DonGraydon RetiredRovers ...... Marion Langstaff Property Division Sailing ...... ChrisMcMuldroch Division Chairwoman MargaretWeiland Singles Activities ...... David Duke, Alan KitsapCoordinator .... Oyde Ringstad Marx Players ...... MaryDuckering Ski Mountaineering.... Jim Heber Meany Ski Hut ...... Ray Nelson Snowshoe...... KarenSykes Mount Baker Lodge ... Bill Zauche Trails Coordinator ...... Ruth Ittner SnoqualmieLodge ..... RobertYoungs, Gary Trail Maintenance ...... Helga Byhre Schweers Indoor Division StevensLodge ...... LynnThompson Division Chairwoman RheaNatoli Conservation Division Banquet ...... BonnieSinclair Division Chairwoman BevDahl in Dance ...... Ken Winkenweder MountaineersBooks Membership ...... Jack McCafferty Photography ...... Jean Davis Management Board The Mountaineer ...... Jim Kjeldsen Chairman...... Jim Miller Property Division Editorial Review ChairPaul Robisch Manager ...... DonnaDeShaz.o Division Chairwoman MargaretWeiland Players ...... Jamie& Christie The MountaineersFoundation Gordon President ...... MorrisMoen KitsapLodge ...... ScottEby Meany Ski Hut ...... Ray Nelson Mount Baker Lodge ... Bill Zauche 1990 Rhododendron Preserve Ted Bellingham Branch Bradshaw Snoqualmie Lodge ..... RobertYoungs, Gary Chairman...... FredWagner Schweers · ViceChairman ...... Judi Joyner StevensLodge ...... Ken Prestrud Secretary ...... Daphne Ypma Treasurer...... Sandy Keathley ConservationDivis ion Everett Branch Division Chairman..... NormWinn Chairman...... Larry Longley MountaineersBooks Vice Chairman...... DorothyBeeman Management Board Secretary ...... Heidi Ondrasik Chairman...... Jim Miller Treasurer...... DianneDuffy Director ...... Donna DeShaz.o Olympia Branch The MountaineersFoundation Chairman...... LesKramer President ...... Morris Moen Vice Chairman...... ChristineLa Beau Secretary ...... JudsonLang Treasurer...... Chuck Erickson Tacoma Branch Chairman...... GregFisher Chairman-elect ...... JeffN. Johnson Secretary ...... Cheryl Cummin.5 Treasurer...... : ...... Les Uhrich 104 TheMountaineer Branch Reports

Bellingham The Belli ngham Branch was established in February, 1983, the first new branch to be formedin 25 years. Thereare now over 200 members. The founding members were Anton Karuz.a, JackKinter, Carolyn Rice, Carol Waugh, Chuck Waugh, and Ken Wilcox. The Bellingham Mountaineers provides an activeoutdoor program of hiking, alpine scrambling, basic climbs, and winter activities.Climb­ ing Chairmanis Dave Carpenter, Hiking-Diane Smith; Snowshoeand Ski-John Bell; and Conservation-Fred Wagner. The Branch repre­ sentsthe members' views on local and regionalconservation issues and contributes funds to conservation organizationsdedicated to promot­ ing the interests of its membership. Recent projects include Adopt-a­ Trail such as the Baker-to-Rails Trail and futuretrai ls in theChuckanut Mountain area. Bellingham is also participating in a revegetation project at CascadePass. The dub holds an annual picnic and barbecue. in August and a retreatat the Mount Baker Lodge in Decemberwhere awards and pins are presented and slides of the year's activities are shared. The Bellingham Branch alsoprovides education programs and mountaineering courses to instruct students in basic mountaineering skills and wildernessethics. They are Alpine Scrambling, Basic Climb­ ing and Rock Climbing Seminars. -SamHouston

l'"IA.STA T�nv,t SIeX PEAKS PIN

TACOMA SNOQUAI..MIE Fl R.ST TEN

SEtH®COKD TEN ----:E. V ER.ET--T Branch Reports 105 Everett 1985 was the 75th anniversaryof the Branch. We proposed to build a climbing rock at an Everett city park. We agreedto finance and build the rock.TheEverett Parks Board would prepare a site. The rock would bethe property of Everett. The project fai led. due to liability problems. Another development was the Branch's decision to sponsor an Explorer Scout Post. It will have an outdoor program at the Alpine Scrambling level. In June the Branch startedpublishing itsown newsletter. The Branch found theCl ub bu lletinto besl ow and unresponsivebecause of a long lead time and limited space. Ourgrowth in 1986 exceeded any other Branch's. New members joined becauseof new activitiessuch as a family backpacking course, a revived Alpine Scramblers Course,and a Folkdance committee. One disappointment was thedefeat of our proposedcl imbing rock. The final obstacle was the question of liability insurance; neither the City nor the Club could come up with a solution. The Branchwas saddened by the loss of a long-time member and climbing committeemember, Ken Nelson. He is remembered with the "EverettMountaineers Ken NelsonMemor ial Climbing Award." The award is given annually to the Everett member who has contributed significantly to the Branch's Climbing program. The first recipientwas Steve Kieffer. 1987 was highlighted with the adoption of newBranch rules which enable membersto vote for officers and ru le amendment by mail. Club leaders are now insured, and all members who want to participate in club activities must sign a Release and Indemnity Agreement. The July and August meetingstook place for the first time in Branch history. And last but not least a Communications Committee was formed in May in an effort to streamline Branch communications. 1988 began with a visit by Mountaineer PresidentBill Maxwell, who addressed the state of the Club. In October the Branch decided to undertake the restorationof the Mount Pilchuck Lookout. Theimmedi­ ate goa lwas the installationof new anchoringcables,and $200wasallocated forsuppl ies. 1989 was the year that the Branch restored the Mount Pilchuck Lookout. It was rebui lt from the bottom up by volunteers, including Army Reservists whoairl ifteda 15,000-poundcontainer with supplies, and a 400-gallon water tank. Painting, glazing, roofing, building a catwalk, hunting historical pictures for a permanent display at the Lookout, selling t-shirts,writing le tters to potential donors, etc., were all done by Branch members. The dedication took place on October 14. And we must not forget the Three Fingers Lookout: we signed an 106 TheMountaineer agreementwith the ForestService to maintain and preserveit with a budget of $100per year. In February 1990, the Branch received acertificate of comrnendation foroutstanding historical preservationof the Mount Pilchuck Lookout by the League of Snohomish County Historical Organiz.ation. In AprilDiane Hoff, Mountaineer President, addressedthe Branch on thePeshastin Pinnacles as a potentialstate park and the needto raise $60,000by August. Awards forthe Mount Pilchuck projectcontinued to be receivedby the Branch: a certificate of appreciation from the Washington State Center for Voluntary Action recognizing the Branch for volunteer service that has benefitted Washington; a plaque from Washington State Parks; and a letter of recognitionfrom Secretaryof Interior Manuel Lujon for the Take Pride in America program, and an invitation to attend thenational award ceremonyin Washington DC. -Linda Nyman Tacoma TheTacoma Branch has remained a very active club in the years sincethe last Mountaineer.As in earlier yearsthe branch's alpine travel, basicandintermediateclimbing coursescontinuetoenjoytheparticipa­ tionof enthusiasticstudents and leaders. The class sizesare down from the lateseventies and early eighties but have stabilized at a good size for the branch.The ski programhas established itselfwith classesin basic, track,backcountry, and telemark skiing. Similarly, hiking, folk dancing and runningreceive active participation. Severalnew activitieshave beendeveloped due to the interests of somehard-working members,including campcrafters,bicycling, and singles.The singlesorganize volleyball, dances, singles-orientedhikes, ski and bicycle trips, special outings, and this year will sponsor the TacomaBranch SalmonBake. These activities have proven to be agreat way tointroduce the Mountaineers to new members,many of whom havethen participated in thecourses the club offers. Bicycle tripsare now offered and will increase as more members becomeinvolved. The campcrafters have enjoyedgood times at both the Christmasparty and Easter egg hunt this year. With many trips planned forthe summer, they lookforward to a successful year. The club thanksall thosewhose eff orts have createdthese activities. The Irish Cabin peaks are receiving much attention with a new emphasison familiarizingthe membershipwith their own ''backyard." Oub hikes and climbs are planned for all twenty-four peaks with interest running high and active participation in the basic climbing course.Though Irish Cabinis no longer standing, its spirit is alive in the branch. Branch Refxms 107

LeeMcKee

The traditionalThanksgiving dinner and annual banquetare well attended. Pack Forestis now the site forthe Thanksgiving dinner with many participantsenjoying hikes and overnightfellowship as wellas the deliciousfood. Tacoma members,like all Mountaineers,love to eat! Public serviceand conservationefforts continue within the branch. A new descriptivesign has beenplaced at the Mountaineertree in Point DefiancePark and a new seedlingplanted as a dedicationto the ideals representedby the long-standingtree. Members of theclub havealso usedtheir climbing skills in clean-up effortson manyof the incliffs the Park. The branch has adoptedthe future Rails-to-Trails trail,serving as an aid to the Parks Departmentin its development and monitoring.The newly-establishedPeshastin PinnaclesState Park is a source of great pride among the members of the branch. Many membersassisted in raising money forthe park coalitionand gaveof theirtime and sweat building the new trailsystem. The park will beenjoyed by climbersand the public foryears to come. Sadly,this year the branch has lost severalmembers who contrib­ uted somuch of themselvesto the branch.The membersinclude F.dith Goodman, Mary Cushmamn, Chuck Larson, Nancy Jackson, Scott McGrath,and Greg Barber. Nancy was lost in an avalancheduring the

1990 American Manaslu Expedition, while Scott anad Greg disaJr pearedhigh on Nepal's Dhaulagiri.They were fully living their love of the mountains. In the words of Winston Churchill, for"Play more than you can afford to lose,and you willlearn the game." They knewthe game, and each is sadlymissed and fondly remembered.Their Moun­ taineer spirit lives in the branch as we continue to explore, study, preserveand enjoy theNorthwest. -JeffJohnson 108 The Mountaineer Olympia During the period from 1983 throu gh 1990, membership of the Olympia Branch averaged abo ut 550, reaching a high of 580 in 1985. The following persons led the local organization, serving as Chair: Arlene Mills, Jim Lan ge, Chris Hansen, Les Kramer and currently Jim Patrick (1990-91). Many others servedin electedlea dership positions,as well as coursecoordi nators and instructors. Except durin g the summer months, the branch meets on a monthly basis for a potluck dinner at TheOlympi a Center. 1hese are one of the group's favoritesocial events and are usually attendedby about 50mem­ bers.Typ ically, a slide show or discus.sionofoutin recent gs followsdinner. The hi ghlight of theyea r is the branch's annu al banquet. Previously located at alocalrestaurant,itwasmoved toTheOlympiaCenterin 1990 to reduce costs. The 1990 banquet proved to beone of the more popular eventsin recentyea rs. Speci al guest speakers have included photo gra­ phers Galen Rowell, Art Wolfe, and Pat O'Hara; mountaineer-adven­ turers Ned Gillette, Allen Kearney and Steve Barnett;and in 1990 noted environmental ac tivist David Brower. Another major event is the an nual picnic, typically held in July in Millersvania Park. This family activity fe atures games for the children and the infamous Chairman's Relay, in which appointed teams com­ pete to avoid the dubious honor of winnin g the trophy. In 1988 the Olympia Branch celebrated its 25th anniversary with a seriesof special climbs, hikes and scrambles. Culminatingthe festivities was a potluckdinner which honored al l of the previous Ch ai rpersons of the branch. The evening featured displays of old mountaineering equipment and photogr aphs. The event was a great success, as current and former members had a chance to visit and reminisce with old friends. The instructional pro gr am remains a major focusof the branch. Five courses are typically offered each ye ar. The total numberof gr aduates during the past eight years is as follows: MOFA, 209;basic climbin g, 152; alpine scramblers, 50; kayak/ca noe, 43; and nordic skiing,33. Also, two Olympi a members have completed the intermediate climbing coursewith other branches. In recentyea rs the branch has offered a variety of outings forits members, in additionto the field trips and climbs associated with the courses. Themost popul ar have been hikes,ave raging40 per year. Club climbs and bike trips, 21 and 13 per year respectively, have al so had many participants. Other frequent outings during the mid-1980s in­ cluded snowshoe hikes and al pine scrambles, but theseha ve declined in recent years due to lack of experienced le adership. An an nual excursion to Sun River during the week following Christmas has Branch Reports 109 provided members with excellent opportunitiesfor bothcross-country and downhill skiing.

The Olympia branch contains more than a few serious "peak­ baggers" among its members,as evidencedby the numberof awards won in reC'entyears. During the 1983-1990 period the branch awarded 77special pins for completing a specifiednumber of climbs. The ''Five Major Peaks" pin was receivedby 18 members.Other popularseries are the Olympic Lookouts and Olympic Trails awards, won by 11 and 12 membersrespectively. Eight membersreceived the Irish Cabin Peaks pin, and six were awarded the Six Major Peaks and Olympic Peaks pins. Other pins awarded include the First Ten and Second Ten pins for Snoqualmie Lodge Peaks, the Teanaway Ten Peaks, and the Everett, Index, Darrington, and Monte CristoPeaks. Olympia members who received the most awards during this period were Edythe and Bob Hulet with a totalof 15 peak pins. An on-going project of the branch is maintenance of the Mount Ellinor trailwhich provides access to one of the more popularscrambles in the Olympia vicinity. Another major project was rewriting of the branch by-laws; these wereadopted in 1990. Currently,a committeeof four members-Tom Whitney, Chuck Erickson, Paul Wiseman and Diane Hyatt-are hard at work developing and formalizing branch policies. -JimPatrick

Icicle River John Warth 110 TheMountaineer The MountaineerLodges

Mt. Baker Over the past few years, the Mt. Baker Lodge Committee has developed a program of summer usethat has becomevery successful. Various groups and activities plan weekends, and sometimes even entirewee ks, during August and Septemberand theseare usually filled to capacity far in advance. The introduction of a temporary, outdoor (strictly for summer useonly) primitiveshower this past summer was a well received additon. Baker's winter season continues to be as popular as ever. The Thanksgiving weekends are always one of the most well-attended events.The Mt. Baker Ski Area is beingexpa nded with many additional downhill runs and groomed cross country ski trails have beenintro­ duced . Cross-countryskiing has become a very popular activitywhich lasts well into May. A major construction project at the lodge added a loft above the dining are a, providing a great spotfor card games and reading. Stevens Pass Off to a slow start this past winter, the Steven's Pass Lodge was eventu ally open more days this season th an ever, thanks to Ken Prestrud and his mid-week and Frid ay night openings. The Stevens Pass Ski Are a has been expanded and now offers some truly great downhillskiing . Here too, cross-countryskiing has takenhold. Lots of skiers now make the lodge their basefor a weekend of touring. Snoqualmie Pass The Snoqualmie PassLodge Committeeha s instituted a very suc­ cessfulFrid ay night group-useprogram. Betweenthesegroups and our own members an d their children, Snoqualmie' sinner.tubing hill is very busy. Even though it's bordered on both sides by Ski Acres and Snoqualmie Summit ski are as , our lodge continuesto operate its own rope tows for "members only" skiing. The summit areas have also begungrooming and patrollingextensive cross-countryterrain and , as everywhereelse, the cross-countryskiers have become familiar faces. Meany Meany Ski Lodge continuesto operate theirdownhill ropetows, and in fact,has added a beginner tow. Here too , more and more downhill skiers are sharing the slopes with the cross-country skiers heading out on tours in the backcountry or practicingtheir telemarks. MountaineerLodges 111

Yellow AsterButte DennisO'Callaghan

Meany still runs a very busydo wnhill ski schoolthroug h January and February and has added a cr oss-countrysessi on as well. In addi­ tion, they offer clinics for telemarking as often as possible during the season. Another innovation at Meany has beenthe introdu cti on of MOFA classes.The entire MOFA course, practi cal exam and CPRare offer ed during two very full weekends at the lodge.Students have giventh e class rave reviews and seem to appreciate the chance to have their practi cals in such a remote and realisticloc ation. -MargaretWeiland 112 TheMount aineer Committee Reports

Susan Viles-M Mountaineercyclists - 1990 uzzy Mountaineercyclists took Labor Day seriouslyin 1990. Using that weekendto pedal more than 200 miles around Mount Hood,Oregon, cyclists peaked out Sunday afternoon at Timberline Lodge. The ride required pedalingup nearly 2000feet in six miles. 1989 had beenthe initialyear of the Mount HoodLoop Trip,led by Jean Henderson.That year it was a four-day event over the 4th of July holiday. In 1990, proprietorsof the only suitable hotel betweenHood River and Timberlinehad balkedatrenting theirrooms forasingle night in themidstofa three-dayholiday .Not to bedaunted, the Mountaineers rode the entire 58 miles, accumulating elevation as they went, on Sunday. Using information sharedby other bikers, the majority of the riders and the sag driver chose anadventurous returnroute through the forest on Monday. This would bethe final leg of the trip that began at Mount Hood CommunityCollege in Gresham Saturday morning.Following the mighty Columbia River into Hood River, the cyclists had experi­ enced the rich history and scenicbeauty of the Gorgeand the Bonneville Dam. To their experiencesSunday they added the orchards and lumber mills near HoodRiver, and the forests and snow-dadpeak of Mount Hood. Monday becamean adventure. Expecting50 or 60miles, the group rode about80 miles, but clicked many of them off quickly as they sailed down a forest road with ever-changing beautyand delightfulevergreen scents. By thetime the riders reached the Clackamas River, supplies were runing low. The sagdriver shared thelast of the food and water in the car to fuel the crowd over the short, steephills back into Gresham. Somecyclists made it back in time to saygoodbye AND get a shower at the college swimming pool before it closed at 5pm. Others of us weren't solucky, but still pronounced thetour worth our effortsand a returntrip. -J ean Henderson Committee Reports 113

Lowell Skoog Nordic Skiing The Nordic Ski Committee plans and leads cross-country ski trips in the Cascades, Olympics, and other mountain ranges. The Nordic Ski Committee also teaches a Basic Cross CountrySki course, a Backcountry Telemark Ski course, and Telemark Seminars. Finally, the Committee is activein preservation/conservation issues which affect Nordic skiing. Someoftheawardseamed(ifnotgiven!)thepastfew yearsindude: Chainnan-to Tim Mc:Guigan-Award:Tim's Cascadepotato chips Forgot to lead his trip-to Larry Duff-Award: Morning wake-up call. RussetLake white-outnaviga tion-to Jim Heber-Award: Russet potato. Last-minuteleader cancellation-to Leigh Johnson-Award: 5 more trips. Leader who ledmost trips-to Carol Iverson-Award: anything you want. "Ski 'ti! you puke!"-to Bryan Scott-Award: barfbag. Best trip report: "Snow ... results in ... expletive deleted."-to Chuck Gustafson-Award:Dictionary. Free-fallrock skiing-to Bee Dietz-Award: Aero-helmet. Van mechanic-to Billy Fogg-Award: gift certificate toSchuck' s. Bestmountain manners-toNancy Waligory-Award: handkerchief. Ski breakage test-to Bob Cheshire-Award:three new pairsof Tuas. European connection-to Shari Hogshead and Paul Gauthier-Award: Haute Route trip. Ski party gourmet chef-to Jayne Brindle-Award: more ski parties. We hopethat you will join us on thetrails or in the backcountry for another wonderful year of Nordic skiing! -CraigMiller 114 TheMountaineer MountaineerSailin g: A History In 1982 a small group of Mountaineers who were also sailors gathered to add Sailing to the activities offered by our organization. Since that time well over a thousand members have experien ced the thrill of sailing in a safety-conscious manner on outings conducted according to established Mountaineerprinciples. The 120 members who took the first Crewin g course in 1983 were tau ght the basics of sailboatoperation and control. The course,updated regularly and offered ea ch spring, has an avera ge enrollment of 150. Graduatesare listed as Crew arid arequalified to parti cipate in Moun­ taineersailin g outings. Mountaineerswith co nsiderable sailingexperien ce as skippers may apply for Skipper status.The committee looksfor expertisein the areas of boathan dling, navigation, safety,leadership and tea ch ing. Skippers lead Mountaineer sailing outings and assist in teaching the annual Crewing course. Most, but not all, skippers own their own sailboats. Their boats are required to meet safety equipment and outfitting standards. Sailing opportunitieswi th the Mountaineersabound . Day, evening and weekendsails areregularly offered on Lake Washin gton and Pu get Sound.Prev ious trips have included one-week outings in the Canadian Gulf Islands and the San Juan Islands; and two-week charters in the Caribbeana,Tahi ti,the GreekIslands, and the Mexican Baja. Thesetrips provide thrillin g sailin g experienresand a chanceto explore,shop, hike, or bicycle in foreignports. Friends and memoriesare made and legendsborn, suchasthetaleoftheattemptofaMountaineer'sfirstascentof(Mount)Bora Bora. The Sailing pro gram alsoprovides seminars, including an annual overboard rescue sem inar, and the yearly Sailors' Reunion. Involve­ ment provides the usual Mountaineer comradeship and adventure. It is a popular program with a current skipper rosterof 32 and Crewing Coursegr aduatesnumber ing nearly 1200.The Crewing Courseis open to all interested Mountaineer members. -MarvWalter First Aid - 1990 1. Mountaineerin g OrientedFirst AidPro gram A. BasicMOFA classes-23 classes graduated413students. Oneof these was a Meany Lod ge class of 40 students. B. Basic MOFA Refresher classes - 4 classes graduated 77 stu­ dents. One was a Meany Lod geclass of 25 . C. MOFA RequirementWaiver Pro gram - recommended 10 stu­ dents for waiver. Committee Reports 115 D. MOFA Instructorcourse-twoclassesgraduated21 students,with an additiona l student who wa s 16 years of ageat the timeof the course and who will receive certification after teaching his first course. 2. First Ai d Notes Thi s year three issu es of First Ai d Notes were publi sh edan d di stri butedto 124 MOFA in structors and program vo lunteers (May, July and October) . 3. Clint Kelley Award TheOint Kelley Award was esta bli shed afterbei ng suggested by Ste ven Mac donaldand Jan Carline.It will begiv enin 1991 for the first time. -SharonEllard TheMountaineer Players The Players have been bu sy . For over seventy years, we've pre­ sentedfine theatricalfare ea ch spring in our beautifulForest Th eater on the KitsapPe ninsula. In the la st ten yearsthe Seattle area has becomea meccafor amateur and professional theater of all sorts. Even though the competition has increased, the Mountaineers Players' annual Spring Show still offers fami ly entertainment on a bi g scale, thelikes of which can't befo und anywhere else in theseparts. From 1984 to the present, we pro duced Teahouseof the Au gu st Moon,Thre e Musketeers,Okl ahoma, Ro bin Hood , Bri ga doon, Hello Dolly! and Once Upon a Mattrress,and we're alrea dy hard at work on thi s year' s show, Ann e of Green Gables. Early in 1985, our membersMary Duck erin g and Lorin da Esposito deci dedthat the Playersneeded to mount a show here in Seattleitsel f. They cookedupa concoctionof lightly sophisticatedthe ater mixed with delectable sweets and chri stenedit the DessertTheate r, serv ed up in the clubroom' s Rhododendron Room. Startin g with Black Sheep of the Family, and continuing with Happily Ever OnceUpon, Pe acockSeaso n, Sa brina Fair, Si ght Unseen, and most recentlySpi der' s Web, thesh ows have go tten better, the desserts more scrumptiou s, and the audiences bigger (and not just from the dessert s) . Last year the Players began a new project - the Au tumn Classic, which brou ght Shakespeare back to the Forest Theater in a long­ overdu e return. September' s production of As You like It on our outdoor sta ge was very well-received, and we wi ll follow it in '91 with The Tempest. Our yearly calen dar alsoincl u des a Winter show that travels tothe Mountaineer ski lo dges. In its history it has been a sin gin g group specializin g in the40s,a ra dio show or fu ll- len gth play. We keepthose 116 TheMou ntaineer skiers guessing! Also on the traveling stage is our Christmas show, a musical revue taken to area nursing homes. -Phillip and Alison Giesy

Susan Viles-Muzzy Sea Kayaking During the last two years, the Mountaineers'Sea Kayaking Program has more than doubled in size with approximately 100 members applying for the 1991Sea Kayaking Course.Conducted each spring, it includes three lectures (introduction,tides/ currents/navigation, and hypothermia and safety); pool practice for a swim test and rescue practice; a paddle instruction lake practice and a minimum of two paddles. Other activities include the annual Rescue MethodsReview and picnicat Lake Sammamish in July, slide shows and seminars.Each summer, leaders and committee membersare invited to participatein a picnicand tour, in appreciationf or their volunteerefforts throughout the year. Sea kayaking outings are held throughout most of the year. They range from a few hours on Lake Union with a visit to a local restaurant to day tours, weekend tours and two weeks in Hawaii or Canada. Trip difficulty ranges from very easy (SK1) to moderately difficult (SK4). Sea kayaking can be a dangerous endeavor. Bewareof thosewho advocate "No experience necessary!" The 50 degree salt water is a relentless unforgiving environment for the ill prepared, even on a day when the surrounding sun drivesthe thermometer above80 degrees. The shock of immediate immersion from a capsize surprisingly and involuntarily can crush one's breath away and it doesn'ttake long for hypothermia to threatentheunprotectedbodyoftheuntrainedkayaker. Therefore, how can one enjoy the fruitsof this wonderful sportand still besafe? CommitteeReports 117 Undertakingtraining from a competentand qualified sourcesuch as The Mountaineers Program is essential and the first place to start. Learnthe basics of paddling skills; self andgroup rescue; how to sit in balance in calm water, in waves and surf, and while entering or leaving the kayak. Individual rescues, especiallythe MarinerSelf Rescue (and later the Mariner Float roll) are basic to safe water travel. Rolling the capsized kayak back upright is an advanced techniquerequiring con­ siderable practice. Group rescues suchas the IIsteady and climb in", "the T", "the HI", and others serve to increase one's competence and enjoyment on the water. When trainingiscompleted,there aremanyways to enjoy kayaking. Rental ofsingle or double kayaks is readily available from commercial trainingsources. And, after lots of thinking and actual paddling, you may want to purchase your own equipment. Although the initial cost might seen high, it is comparable or less than other outdoor sports, because most kayak equipment lasts for a lifetime. Remember, if you want some newadventure in your life, why not try Sea Kayaking? You might like it! -Norm Kosky Snowshoe(Winter Travel) Like other Mountaineer Committees, the Snowshoe Committee (Winter Travel) is ever-changing and evolving. The SnowshoeCourse (also known as Winter Travel) has enjoyed the reputationin the past of beinga "fun" courseto take and moreloosely structured than someof the other Mountaineer classes such as Basic Oimbing and Alpine Scrambling. As liability has becomemore of a concernin recentyears, the Snowshoe Committeehas begunto restructurethe program accord­ ingly. We are taking ourselvesmore seriouslywithout takingthe "fun" out of the class. Since 1982 we have had several excellent Chairpersons: Trudy Lalonde, David Wright, Mary Sutliff, and Gordon Ellison who has preceded me. A major trendof the SnowshoeCourse since 1982 is that snowshoeing has becomea more popularsport and theclass has grown enough that restructure of the Snowshoe Committeehas been necessary. While the size of the class has changed along with some of our philosophy, many aspectsof the Snowshoe Course have not. When I was a student in the early 1980s, our first field trip was held at Paradise, Mount Rainier, and the overnightfield tripwas held at Skyline Ridge at Stevens Pass. To the best of my knowledge these locations have re­ mainedthe same.The second fieldtrip, Avalanche Awareness,has been held at various locationsover the years, including Skyline Ridge and the Snoqualmie Pass area. 118 TheMountaineer In 1986-87 Mary Sutliff initiated the concept of 'Winter Scrambles." They were a great successthen and stillare today. The Winter Travel Coursewill continueto emphasize the importanceof ice axe arrest and avalanche awareness. The Snowshoe Committee has provided excellent speakers for courselectures, some of whom we stilluse in our program today. Glen Katz.enberger, the Snow Ranger at Stevens Pass, has volunteered for severalyears to give his excellent presentation on avalanches. Also,Bob Burns,ournavigation expert,has given his navigationlecture often and is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable speaker. Since the early '80s winter travel equipment has also evolved. Snowshoeshave changedas have tractiondevices. My first snowshoes were the '1ong ones," the Lightweights. As the years passed I noted more and more peoplewere using the smaller Feather lights and getting around a lot easier than I was. I switched to Featherlights a couple of years ago. Like many other snowshoers, I have found the Tucker bindings towork the beston the more challenging snowshoetrips and winter scrambles. Boots have changed, too. Many snowshoers have gone to plasticboots with liners anduse their leather bootsfor summer tripsand scrambles. Avalanche beaconsare constantlybeing improved and still ensure the best survival in the event of an avalanche. Very few peopleuse avalanche cords today, and while probing techniques are still taught at field trips, avalanche beaconsare the preferred method. Our preamblehas changed as well. Ice axes and ice axe training are now required on all except easy trips. As in the past, one must be a graduate of the Alpine Scramblesor BasicClimbing courseto go on a WinterScrambl e. Since the class has grown solarge we plan to adopt someof thestrategies useed by the Alpine Scramblers. In 1991-92 we will bebreaking up into Subcommittees.Also, we will beincorporating the useof student grade cards - similar to what is presently usedby Alpine Scramblers. We willalso provide a CourseEvaluation form in the coursesyllabus forthe students to fill out-we want to hear from them on how we can improve our snowshoecourse. Highlights:We tookon the project in 1990 of re-typing the entire coursesyllabus forthe sake of consistency. The coursesyllabus was re­ typedon MicrosoftWord and is now on disk for future revisions. The overnight FieldTrip in 1990 had to becancelled the night before due to ALL the passes being closed! Thecoordinators of the field trip, BradCole and Greg Aramaki, with the assistance of Kathy Kelleher, managedto contact ALL the studentsby telephone to tell them the trip was cancelledand rescheduledfor another date. This was a gargantuan effort ... and a success. Most of the students were flexible enough in their thinking and in their schedules to show up for the rescheduled trip. Committee Reports 119

KarenSykes

Also,one of the 1991 Avalanche Awarenes.sfield hipsis at this writing beingrescheduled due to once again ALL the passesbeing closed. Jim and Maria Pommert, coordinators of the cancelled hip, felt the field hip was important enough so that they have scheduled a make-up to coincide withthe overnightat Skyline Ridge.If it were not for the heroic efforts of peoplelike these,committees such as ours would not survive. -Karen Sykes 120 TheMou ntaineer A Reviewof Major Financial Events:1982- 1990

Balance Sheet AS.SETS September30, 1982 September30, 1990 Current Assets Cash and cash equivalents $217,746 $567,453 Other current assets 668,531 1,439,119 Land, Properties& Equipment 529,273 806,797 Less arumulateddepredation (303,548) (445,204) Other, including Local Improvement District 74,648 34,400 Total Assets �1,146.402 �2,442,813 LIABILITIES AND FUND BALANCES

CurrentLiabilities $138,863 $364,777 1=,ongTerm Debt 33,110 138,537 Fund Balance 974,429 1,939,499 Total Liabilities and Fund Balance �1,146,402 �2,442,813

The end of the fiscalye ar in Septemberof 1990fo und The Mountain­ eersin a strongand stablefinancial condition. Comparing our position in 1990 with where we found ourselves at the same time as the publication of the last annual (1982) requires someme ntal gymnastics becau seof th e time span and the many changes we have exp eri enced. At best, wecan attempt only todraw attenti on tothe major events which have shaped our financial affairsdurin g this time. The most si gn ificant financial trend for the club ov er the past ei ght years has been the expansion and development of our book publishing operation. As ou r books have multiplied,both in number of titlesand in print runs, we have become thelarg estpublish er of outdoorboo ks in the nation. Financially, this has provided stability for our ov erall operation, and has enabledus to meet someof our important conserva­ tion goals throu gh the publication of such books as Washi.ngton Wilder­ ness: The UnfinishedWo rk, Washi.ngton' s Wild Rivers and Fragile Majesty. Through the ei ght year period from 1982 to 1990, the Board of Trustees struggled with the issues of mee tingclub operating expen ses with dues revenues. Dues increases had not kept pace during the inflationaryyears of theseventies.Asinflation continu edintheeighties, the Board faced thedifficult need to rai sedu es bynearly$15 ov er a three year peri od , from $20 in 1985 to $34 in 1988, where they remained throu gh 1990. Although membership declined sli ghtly for several years, this increaseallo wed the club to make some improvements in operations, and to mov e toward a more stable funding base. AdministrationReport 121 In Septemberof 1983 the club transferred its headquarters from719 Pike Streetto 300Third Avenue West, becomingowners of the Norway Center through a propertyexchange. With this move, the club entered the full-scalerestaurant, room rental and catering business. We were not asskilledinthisbusinessasinthebookpublishingfield,andfaced many difficult challenges over the years as operatinglosses mounted. In July of 1988the Boardmade the hard decisionto close down the restaurantand shift building policy management away from volunteer involvement In fiscal year 1986 and 1987, total losses frombuilding operations exC.'eeded $350,()()(). In spite of this setback,the Club's financialposition has continued to improve. The building operationhas now stabilized,with an active roomrental and catering businesswhich is currently contributingto the Club's financialhealth as it providescomfortable and effectivemeeting space for many of our activities. In the last eightyears, our assetshave increasedby more than 200 percent,an impressive increaseconsidering that inflationduring that periodwas approximately35 percent. Even though long-termdebt has increased more than fourfold (due to a $100,000 loan for the building and a $50,000 Local ImprovementDistrict Assessment at Snoqualmie Lodge), it is a smaller percentage of our assetbase now than in 1982. Cash reserveshave alsoincreased considerably (by 261 percent). This enables us to facefuture challenges with confidence and continue to use our resourcesto serve our membersas we pursue the Club's mission. -VirginiaFelton, ExecutiveDirector Note: Full financialreports for each of theseinterven ing years are available in the Oub's library. A detailed financial statement for 1990 was published in the June issue of TheMountaineer Magazine. 122 TheMount aineer The MountaineersService Aw ard Recipients AchesonCup Awards 1922 ...... A.E. Smith 1932 ..... Margaret Hazard 1923 ...... Wall ace Burr 1933 ..... William }. Maxwell 1924 ...... Joseph Hazard 1934 ..... Herbert V. Strandberg 1925, 1926, 1927: 1935 ..... Marjorie V. Gregg No Award Given 1936 ..... Laurence D. Byington 1928 ...... C. A. Fisher 1937 ..... Clarence A. Garner 1929 ...... Charles Browne 1938 ..... Arthur R. Winder 1930 ...... Harry R. Morgan 1939 ..... Lind a M. Coleman 1931 ...... H. WilfredPl ayter 1940 ..... Ben C. Mooers ServicePlaque Awards: 1942 ...... P.M. McGregor 1967 ..... Victor Josend al 1943 ...... L.A. Nelson 1968 ..... Richard G. Merritt 1944 ...... F.Q. Gorton 1969 ..... Morris C. Moen 1945 ...... Leo Gallagher 1970 ..... Jesse Epstein 1946 ...... C.G. Morrison 1971 ..... Ruth Bartholomew 1947 ...... Charles L. Simmons 1971 ..... Wallace Bartholomew 1948 ...... Burge B. Bickford 1972 ..... Paul Robish 1949 ...... Lloyd Anderson 1973 ..... Stella Degenhardt 1950 ...... George MacGowan 1974 ..... John M. Davis 1951 ...... John E. Hossack 1975 ..... Max Hollenbeck 1952 ...... William A. Degenhardt 1976 ..... Frank Fickelsen 1953 ...... Mary G. Anderson 1977 ..... Neva L. Karrick 1954 ...... T. Davis Castor 1978 ..... Robert M. Latz 1955 ...... Mrs.Ir ving Gavett 1979 ..... Jo an Wilshire Firey 1956...... Mrs. Lee Snider 1980 ..... Norman L. Winn 1957 ...... Walter B. Little 1981 ..... Clinton M. Kelley 1958 ...... Joseph M. Buswell 1982 ..... Howard Stansbury 1959 ...... Roy A. Snider 1983 ..... A. J. Culver 1960...... John Klos 1984 ..... Peggy Ferber 1961 ...... HarrietK. Walker 1985 ..... Edward L. Peters 1962 ...... Harvey H. Manning 1986 ..... SamFry 1963 ...... John M. Hansen 1987 ..... Ruth Ittner 1964...... Paul W. Wiseman 1988 ..... Bill Zauche 1965 ...... Polly Dyer 1989 ..... Beverly J. Dahlin 1966...... John R. Hazle 1990 ..... Rhea and RoyceNa toli Presidentsand Honorary Members 123 Club Presidents Herny Landes...... 1907-08 Robert N. Latz...... 1%1-63 Edmond S. Meany ..... 1908-35 Frank Fickeisen ...... 1963-65 Elvin P. Camey...... 1935-37 MorrisMoen ...... 1 %5-67 Hollis R. Farwell ...... 1937-38 JesseEpstein ...... 1%7-68 HanyL. Jensen...... 1938-40 John M. Davis ...... 1%8-69 GeorgeMacCowen .... 1940-42 Max Hollenbeck...... 1%9-71 Arthur R. Winder ...... 1942-44 JamesHenriot ...... 1971-73 Burge B. Bickford ...... 1944-46 SamFry ...... 1973-75 Lloyd Anderson...... 1946-48 Norman L. Winn ..... 1975-77 JosephBuswell ...... 1948-50 JamesS. Sanford ..... 1977-79 T. Davis Castor ...... 19�52 A.J. Culver ...... 1979-81 William Degenhadt.. .. 1952-54 ErrolNelson ...... 1981-83 Chester L. Powell ...... 1954-56 Delmar Fadden ...... 1984-85 Paul W. Wiseman...... 1956-58 Bill Maxwell ...... 1986-87 John R. Hazle ...... 19� Carsten Lien ...... 1988-89 E. Allen Robinson ...... 1960-61 Dianne Hoff ...... 1990-

HonoraryMembers MajorE.S. Ingraham ...... 1909* W. Montelius Price ...... 1960* S.E. Paschall ...... 1921* LeoGallagher ...... 1960* J.B. Flett ...... 1922* Edward W. Allen ...... 1%1* S. Hall Young ...... 1926* Howard Zahniser ...... 1%2* Col. Wm. B. Greeley ...... 1931* Wolf Bauer ...... 1966 Mrs. George E.Wright .... 1936* William 0. Douglas ...... 1%7* A.H. DeIU1la1l ...... 1938* David R. Brower ...... 1%7 H.B. Hinman...... 1938* PatrickD. Goldsworthy .. 1%9 CharlesAlbertson ... : ...... 1940* Mrs.Emily Haig ...... 1972* Maj. O.A. Tomlinson ...... 1942* BradfordWashburn ...... 1973 CharlesM. Farrer ...... 1944* Terris Moore...... 1979 Clark E. Schurman...... 1950* JesseEpstein ...... 1988* John Osseward...... 1954* JamesW. Whittaker ...... 1990 *Deceased 124 TheMountaineer The MountaineersFounda tion: What it is, What it Does and How You Can Help

The MountaineersFoundation was formed in 1969 to work toward the educational objectives of The Mountaineers: To study the moun­ tains, forestsand streams; to gather into permanent form history and traditions;and to preserve thenatura l beautyof the Pacific Northwest. The Foundation is a separatecorporation from The Mountaineersand has its own boardof officersand trustees, a majority of whom must be membersof The Mountaineers.It was organizedexc lusively for chari­ table, scientific, literary and educational purposes to conform to the requirements of the Internal Revenue Servicefor tax deductibility for contributors. The Mountaineers Foundation is a public foundation. It chooses projects to supportand accepts contributions foreither a selectedprojec t or forthe general purposes theof Foundation.The Foundation funds many typesof projects. One of its majorresponsibi litiesis thepreserva­ tion and protection of over 180acresof old growth forestplus additional puffer property of second growth forest. Called the Rhododendron Preserve,it is located westof Bremerton on the SeabeckHi ghway and is describedbel ow. Someother examples of projects the Foundationhas supported are: • A grant to Greater Ecosystem Alliance to enable their "Ancient Forest Rescue Expedition" project to conduct a 35-state, 10-week tour featuring a semi-truckhaul ing a gigantic730 year old Douglas Fir lo g throu gh parts of the countrywhere people haveno concept of what "Old Growth" rea lly is, and what is happenin g to their public lands. • Supportfor the WhaleMu seum (FridayHarbor, Was hington) by funding a research project: "Pilot Study on the Effectsof Boats on Killer Wha les off San Juan Island," to investigate what effects the rapid ly increasin g vessel-basedwha le watching may behavin g on the Orca's useof their traditiona l summer habitat. • A grant to Institutefor EnvironmentalStudies tofund printing of extra copies of the Northwest EnvironmentalJo urnal'sspe cial-topic issue "Focus on Old Growth" in the fall of 1990. • Payment of our commitmentto Mou ntai neer Books to underwrite a portionof the publicationcosts of Washington's WildRivers - The Unfinished Work, a project which would not have been commer­ cially feasible without our support. • Our ongoing acquisitionof booksand journals for theFoundati on Library,housed with The Mountaineers library in the clubhouse. Mountaineers Foundation 125 • A grantto assist the Everett branch of The Mountaineers in their projectto restorethe historic MountPilchuck Lookout, by provid­ ing interpretive displays designed in cooperation with the Wash­ ington State Parks Department. • Assisting theNature Conservancy in land acquisition designed to protectthe nesting sites of raptorslisted as endangered speciesin this state. • A grant to Alpine Lakes ProtectionSociety (ALPS) to help finance a new editionof the AlpineLakes Map. ALPShas beena key factor in facilitatingland swaps and acquisitionsto strengthen the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, and theproceeds from salesof this map provides the only sourceof outside funds. • A contingency grant to the Northwest Wilderness and Parks Conferenceto underwrite expensesof their annual conference. • An educational grant to TheMountaineers for a seriesof Supple­ ments in The Mountaineer (Bulletin) dealing with conservation and/ or environmental issues. • A contribution tothe restoration of thearea at the baseof Sherman Rock at Camp Long (SeattleParks Department), usedby genera­ tionsof Mountaineersin the basic climbing courseand others. • Provided booksto highschool librari es throughout the State of Washington. • Contributed to the identification and mapping of old growth timberstands in Tiger MountainState Forest • A videotapeon BowermanBasin, near Grays Harbor,to document its importanceas a feeding and resting stop for migratingbirds. • Study and documentationof the lifeforms native to thatdi sappear­ ing original ecosystem,the Columbia Basin shrubsteppe. • A specialissue of Northwest EnvironmentalJournal devoted to management of forestpest insects. The RhododendronPreserve is a wildernesshabitat of greatscien­ tific interest and beauty. Streams crossing the property are hosts to severalspecies of salmon whichcan beseen spawning from August to late fall. Their skeletons can befound on the banks under thealders and maplesuntil spring, when small animals need thecalcium they provide for their own bonesand milk for their young. Abovethe streams arestand s of old growth fir, cedar,hemlock and pine. In someareas the treesare one to two hundredyears old; in other areasthreeto fourhundredyearsold,withmanyspecimensthreetofive feet in diameter at breast height. Salmonberry, salal, Oregon grape, swordfern, devil's club, huckleberry and rhododendron blanket the forest floor, often to a depth of six feet or more. Rhododendrons are everywhere,blooming in lateMay andearly June. Mosses and lichens add 126 TheMountaineer

rolorand texture to the area. It is one of the largest remaining examples of lowland old growth forest in thePuget Sound basin,containing four distinct forest plant communities within its boundaries. To quote from Lynn Cornelius, Preserve DesignErologist, The Nature Conservancy, ''This area is clearlyone of thebest examples remaining of matureand old-growth southern PugetTrough lowla nd forest.Once covering many thousands of acres, examples of theseforests greaterthan 10 acres in relatively undisturbed rondition are now quite rare." The RhododendronPre­ serve has been classified by the State of Washington as a Nature Conservancy and has been included in the Washington Register of Natural Areas by the Department of Natural Resources,Wash ington Natural HeritageProgram. In 1985The Mo untaineerstransferred allexcept twenty acresof the Preserve to The Mountaineers Foundation. The twentyacres retained by The Mountaineers contain the Forest Theatre and a lodge called KitsapCabin. This marvelous wild land will bedifficult to protectunles.s certa in adjoiningproperties, threatened by development, areacquired. Some of this land is along a lovely creek,wo rthy of inclusion in itsown right. Other parcelsare in cornparati vely young coniferous forest, essentialto protect the Preserve's old growth trees from windthrow in severe storms. A majorpriority of the Foundation is to obtain funds to purchase additionalbuffer property for inclusion in thePreser ve. The Foundation hasbeen able to acquirefive piecesof propertybord ering the Preserve. Two were donated and threewere purchased.The last purchase was namedthe JesseEpstein Addition. It rontains 37 1 /2 acres and was boughton contract.Jesse was a climber,member of ten majorrommit­ tees,trus tee, author of the motion toestablish the Literary Fund (now MountaineerBooks), president, Service Award recipient,and founder of TheMoun taineersFoundation. Jesse served The Mountaineerswell. We feltprivileged to name theaddition in his honor. Additionalparcels are available. The timeof need is now,before the Preserveis engulfed by suburbia. A gift to The MountaineersFounda­ tionfor the purchase of propertyto protectthe RhododendronPreserve isa giftto futuregenerations and, in additionto our children,is probably as close as most of us will evercome to a little bit of immortality. If you would like tojoin us in our effortsby making a contribution,it would bemost appr eciated.In many casesa gift of securitiesother or property is more advantageousto the giver than cash,for tax reasons.Another important way to help the Foundationis to make it thebeneficiary or contingentbeneficiary of insurance policies.A contingentbeneficiary Mountaineers Foundation 127 will receive the payment if the beneficiary is no longer living. Your attorneycan explain the various optionsfor a bequestin a will, such as a specified amount, a percentage of the estate, a charitable remainder trust,etc. Theseare a growingsource of funding for the Foundation.If you have questions, please leave a message with The Mountaineers, 284-6310, for a representativeof the Foundationto call. Pleasespecify if you have questions aboutestate planning. If you wish your contribution to be used for the acquisition of additional buffer property,please write ''Propertyacquisition" on your check. If you wish your contribution to go for other projects of the Foundation, please write "Conservation and Education." Contribu­ tionsaretaxdeductible.The Foundationis registeredwith the Washing­ ton Secretaryof State as a Public BenefitNon-Profi t Corporation.Over 95% of contributionsgo to fund projects.

THE RHOOOOENDAON PRESERVE A designltled ,.,._Herlt9ge ...... ___-al- To SEABECK

N IIOUNOAFIES: -• dme ct ..... dflP. •om Mot.re.._.. to Mountllineen Fot.Wldldon ..... property,.....,bf Mount ...... •••• ,Hlddlr,'-d'I .....property� by TN Fooodallon i ISlCe ...... (1980-1� 128 TheMountaineer

KarenSykes In Memoriam 129 In Memoriam, 1985-1991

FlorenceL. Aasen Sheri Fike Robert P. Murray Ron M. Abramson Rodger A. Fish Ken Nelson Gretchen E. Alderman Bernard Fawler Dorothy M. Newcomer KatherineM. Altermatt ElisabethFry Christine M. Noah-Nichols Steven Douglas Altman Jean H. Fuller Roy 0. Neil Bodo G. Alvensleben Mrs. John F. Fuller Mrs. Ellis Ogilvie Robert D. Ashley Roberta Gardner TheodoreR. Ohlson Robert B. Baldridge Wm. H. Gardner Frances W. Parks Greg Barber Paul H. Garoer Richard G. Paterson

Hape Barnes Edith G. Goodman Evelyn M. Pa tton Deborah Lynai Bartlett StephenB. Haley MonroePeaslee WilliamA. Bender Allen A. Halvorson KatherinePettit Sheldon Brooks, Sr. Norman E. Herley Kathy E. Phibbs Gladys Burr W. Ryland Hill David J. Phillips Wa llaceH. Burr Wayne RobertHoekstra Annette Wiestling Platt MaryS. Bush Mrs. Edwin Hollenbeck Clifford E. Plouff Karla Leland Callan RandyNorman Holmberg Mrs. E .Allen Robinson AlbertCarlson Na ncyJackson ]. A. Roller Mrs. JosephM. Chybinski KatarinaJe nnings Barbara ]. Runnels Mrs. Cortlandt T. Clark Mrs. Harry L. Jensen Fred H. Schmidt Ulrike Crimina/e Victor Josendal Frank]. Seberg Robert L. Curtis David Joseph Kelley Harold Sievers MaryCushman Richard C. Kiltz Earl Sawles OmeDaiber Ralph Kirschner Roger W. Spurr Hollis Day Dr. GregoryE. Kledzik Leva L. Stafford John S. Day Charles R. Larson Howard E. Stansbury Mrs. Charles Dehart Jocelyn Lindberg James F. Stevens Miss Elizabeth Dickerson Arthur A. Lumsdaine John E. Stout FlorenceF. Dodge Patricia Martin David C. Thalin George P. Doherty GenevaM. McDonald Ronald G. Thorne ElizabethLouise Drotning Scott McGrath Shirley Ann Tisch AliceEas t Eberharter Howard C. McNeely Ralph M. Travis Wa lter Entenmann Ruth D. Mendenhall Robert C. Uddenberg Jesse Epstein Viola Michael Janet Lee Valentine Carl Eshelman Daniel F. Milam, Jr, Erich R. Volke

Judy Eskenazi Howard W. Millan Isabel Wa lgren Mrs. Herman Felder Keith V. Mitchell Thomas Wiesmann Kurt H. Fengler Arthur DuncanMoir George Willner Paul Ferrier Hunter Morrison Arthur Winder 130 TheMounta ineer

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Stretch Capilene Underwear in action. Photo: GREG EPPERSON © Patagonia, Inc. 1991 The Mountaineer 131

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Plan your adventureswith TheMountaineers books and save 20% As a member,you can . f ': :· l findbooks on bicy­ save_20% on any title cling, mountain history, pubhshed by The � :"�- mountaineering adven­ Mountaineers while to, �[:Wt ture, mountaineering also supporting the 1 ' � guides, nature/conser­ club. . , I , .. vation, outdoor adven­ When planning your .. ' ture, hiking, paddling/ next adventure be sure watersports, travel, first to come by the club­ aid, and winter sports. house bookstore. You'll Tel: (206) 284-6310 TheMounta ineer 133 The Mountaineers Building­ More Than a Clubhouse 'i Ne you planning ameet ing, conference, wedding or socialevent? 'i W so, theMountalneers Building is just what you've been lookingfor. 'i Withthree floors of meeting rooms, overlooking beautrful Elliott Bay, the MountaineersBuilding offers flexibility and value that is unmatched. 'i Whether you are planning an intimate catered partyfor 20, or need a large auditorium to seat 600, theMountaineers Building pro vides meeting space and servicesto fit any need or budget. � Wedding Receptions � AnniversaryParties � Dinner Dances �Dances �Meetings � Film Shows � BirthdayParties � Christmas Parties �Luncheons � Fund Raisers �Auctions �Pageants �concerts Let the Mountaineers Building and our staffof professionals help makeyour nextmeeting or event a success. 281-7775 134 TheMountaineer

© MarieMills/D avidCummings GoodNigh t Song 135

Mountaineers Good Night Song

Thoughlike a wanderer Thesun gone dcmm, Darknessbe (!l}erme, My rest a stone. Still in my dreams I'llbe Nearer my God to thee, Nearermy God to Thee, Nearerto Thee. Good night, we must part, God keepwatch o'er us all, where we go. Till we meet once again, GoodNigh t! 136 TheMountaine er