1983-1990 from the Mountaineer Annual,1917 � 1J\ � I GU{-� �WJ A,,Ij·(/1L7ti;:Uza
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The Mountaineer 1983-1990 From The Mountaineer Annual,1917 � 1J\ � i GU{-� �WJ a,,ij·(/1l7ti;:uza... a..,.plit �� � . - �/VJ 1 �It..! I n,.a.t�q, fA..J.. b..ra Ddl,l\.d -lo � �� � �,f VJ ,J/�t�P.J- if.dJK.>() � Su.ca.,.J,;" • fmu.4 - � f-cAw iiJ., it-.: 'r thft� , tllvtll c,.;r-,-... /IJf.i... a,, "iIA,f.Q _,_..,.. • The Mountaineer 1983-1990 Published August, 1991 2 TheMountaineer The Mountaineer Intrue Mountaineers' tradition, the text, photographs and productionof this bookhas beendone entirelyby volunteers. And soa specialthank you goesto all who gaveof theirtalent, time and inspiration increating, after a sevenyear hiatus, this newestedition of The MountaineerAnnual. EditorialCommittee Judi Maxwell-Editor,Production Manager, layout Ann Marshall-Word Processing,Advertising, layout MarciaHanson-Word Processing, Advertising, Table Transcriptions FrankSincock-Advertising Manager Karen Sykes-Word Processing BobBums---Committee Ken Lans-DesktopPublishing Marge Mueller-ProductionConsultant (Mountaineers Books) Cover Design: Judi Maxwell and Ann Marshall Cover Photographs: Front-Climbingnear Mt. Constance, © Marie Mills/David Cummings Back-ThunderCreek, North Cascades, © Dennis O'Callaghan Thank you alsoto thefollowing Mountaineerstaff members:Virginia Felton,Executive Director; Ann Halinger; Eileen Allen; BobPodrat; and DonnaDeShazo and Art Freeman of MountaineersBooks. Copyright© 1991by The Mountaineers 300Third Avenue West Seattle,Washington 98119 Printedon recycledpaper The Mountaineers Purposes To explore and study the mountains, forests and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of NorthwestAmerica; To make expeditionsinto these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. SusanViles-Muzzy 4 TheMountaineer Image Lake CarlSkoog CONTENTS The Mountaineers Purposes ......................................... 3 Forward........................................................................ 8 Dianne Hoff Mt. Everest Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb 1990 .................................. 11 Jim Whittaker The Changing Role of the Trail User ........................... 16 Ruth Ittner "Conquistadors of the Useless" (Winter Ascents of Mt. Constance) .............................. 24 Rex Andrew Photographing the Ancient Forest ............................... 29 John Warth High Skiing: A Decade of Exploration in the Cascades and Olympics .................................... 32 Lowell Skoog Washington's Highest Mountains and Steepest Faces .................................................... 40 Stephen Fry The Bailey Range Traverse ........................................ 54 Bob Burns Adventures in the Far North........................................ 59 Dennis Larsen Contrasts: Brooks Range to the Dolomites .................. 65 Bev Dahlin and Steve Johnson The Rise and Rise of the Bellingham Mountaineers .... 67 Ken Wilcox The Peshastin Pinnacles: Washington's New Climbing Park ..................................................... 70 Marcia Hanson Maps for Hiker's and Climbers in the 1990's ................ 74 Stewart Wright Climbing Notes ........................................................... 84 John Roper 6 TheMountaineer Mountaineer Outings: 1984-1990 ................................ 88 Bill Zauche Thel\oountaineers ConservationDivision: 1984-1990 ....... 90 Norm Winn President's Reports .................................................... 92 Del Fadden 1984-85 Bill Maxwell 1986-87 Carstein Lien 1988-89 Club Leadership: 1984-1990 ....................................... 96 Officers Board of Trustees Branch Officers Committee Chairpersons Branch Reports......................................................... 104 Bellingham - Sam Houston Everett - Linda Nyman Tacoma - Jeff Johnson Olympia - Jim Patrick The Mountaineer Lodges .......................................... 11 O Margaret Weiland Committee Reports................................................... 112 · Cyclists - Jean Henderson Nordic Ski - Craig Miller Sailing - Marv Walter First Aid - Sharon Ellard Players - Phillip and Alison Giesy Sea Kayaking - Norm Kosky Snowshoe - Karen Sykes Administration/Financial Report................................. 120 Virginia Felton, Executive Director The Mountaineers ServiceAward Recipients ............ 122 Club Presidents ........................................................ 123 Honoraryand Life Members ...................................... 123 The Mountaineers Foundation: What it is, What it does and How you can help .......................... 124 In Memoriam ............................................................ 129 The Mountaineers Good Night Song ........................ 135 The Mountaineer 8 TheMountaineer Foreward To All Mountaineers: It gives me a great deal of pleasure to introduce this issue of The Mountaineer,our annual report,published for the first timesince 1983. The annual has become an important document and an old tradition over the years. It meetsone of our stated purposes,to "gather into permanent form the history and tradition� [of outdoor recreation] of the region." It also allows us to record the pleasure and satisfaction we derive from our membership in the Mountaineersand recreatethat pleasure forothers. We believe that the club is stronger when we communicate well, and commu nicate often, to our members. We are happy to restore this tradition. In 1984we had a decision to make. No one stepped forward to accept responsibility for publishl:ig the annual. At the same time we were strapped for funds. In a volunteerorganization such as ours, we support those activitiesthat are most desired and neededby our members. Many serviceswere dropped that year. The annual was one. The "gathering into permanent form" fell to our monthly magazine. I've seena number of changesin the Club in recent years. When I joined the Board in 1986, we were looking at a financial crisis of monumental proportion. I liken it to slipping toward the edge of a crevasse withno rescue in sight. Although many like to point to our new building as the cause,we soon learnedthat the problems we were facingwere much older, larger and more invasive. The problem wasourunwillingness toacceptour fiscal responsibility to insure adequate dues income, and our inability I unwillingness to make tough financial decisions. With Bill Maxwell's leadership we dug in, stopped our slide, and turned ourselves around. Then in Carsten Lein's term, he tookon the tough assignment of changing policy, by-laws and organizational structure. My job has beento insure that the club is stronger under thesechanges, that we follow through with them, assuring that the form they take is accepted by the membership, and that they meet the spirit of our purposes and mission. In any organization, change is difficult. By insuring that people have the opportunity to commu nicate, that their complaintsare dealtwith fairly,andthat the change seems fair to the majority, we build a strong team feeling. We have achieved success in this effort becausewe have established a strong traditionof strategic planning in the last seven years. Eachyear the top leaders in the club meet to review The MountaineersMission and our priorities. Each year we strip our plan down to the basics and froma zero base, we plan for at least five years ahead. We follow up with a clear action plan and schedulefor meeting our goals. As any good Mountaineerknows, you need a plan to know where you're going, and to know when you get there. This planning tradition, careful oversight and thorough reporting systems are making the difference for us. Just a few years ago, we regularly Foreward 9 heard the lament '1t's just not fun anymore." We felt lost. Now we're found, we know where we're going, and we're having fun again. Meanwhile, we are looking at a number of other successes and chal lenges. The most demanding issue right now is that of the ski lodge properties. Snoqualmie Lodge in particular has seen less Mountaineer , support and more financial demands,despite herculean effortsby itslodge committee.The propertiesdivision has beenstruggling for years to main taina balanced budget. The Boardis developing a plan to achieve this in an acceptable time frame. MountaineersBooks has achieved a great deal of success in recent years. Under strong management, they continue to publish booksthat meetour purposesand our member needs,making our name and our mission known worldwide. Wild Rivers, is a significant achievement. It willbe used to promote and protectour naturalwaterways. RecentlyBooks relocated to alarger, more comfortable home. The Mountaineershas passed the 12,000 membermark. As our mem bership grows, we need more activities, and more leaders. We must provide better guidelines and clearer expectations for leaders and trip members.We want to support them with better training and recognition for their efforts on behalf of the Club. As our Northwest community grows, we recognizea greater need to protectourenvironment. Onewaywearedoingthisisemphasizinga team approach between the activities and conservation divisions. Through teamwork,we attain greater recognitionof the needfor conservationand protectionof the Northwest's natural beauty. Ancient forest hikes,rallies, PeshastinPinnaclesandourparticipationincommunityissuesaremaking the Mountaineers known and acknowledged as a viable