CHAIN STORE GUIDE THROUGH THE AGES A TOUR OF THE RETAIL & FOODSERVICE INDUSTRIES THROUGH THE LAST 80 YEARS. In 2013, Chain Store Guide celebrated its 80th anniversary. In honor of this occasion, we hosted a monthly series of editorials called “Chain Store Guide Through The Ages”, starting with the 1930s, the decade in which CSG was founded. Each month we took a look at a different decade and reviewed what happened in that time and how it affected the industries we now serve. Though we started off printing paper directories, our delivery of essential business sales leads has evolved into a robust and powerful online database system used by many of the top Fortune 500 companies as well as mid to small companies who want to grow their business. Editorial Staff Apparel & Department - Natasha Perry Drug & Grocery - Brian List Home, Hardware, & Discount - Arthur Rosenberg Restaurant - Linda Helman Editing & Introduction - Matthew Werhner This eBook can also be found indexed by decade online at newsroom.chainstoreguide.com. NewsRoom.ChainStoreGuide.com 1-800-927-9292 Apparel Industry The Apparel Industry 1930s The apparel industry in the 1930’s was very different than it is now. With more Army and Navy goods stores than traditional department stores, apparel was more about need than fashion. There were more than 50 percent fewer Women’s stores than Men’s stores. There were also more locations that were independently owned than operated by chains. Independents, or companies with 3 stores or fewer dominated the family apparel industry, operating 89 percent of the locations. To put annual sales in the 1930’s into perspective, the entire apparel group did around $4 billion in sales, which is what Abercrombie & Fitch brought in last year alone. Rainbow Apparel Co., which currently operates 1,100 locations was started in the 1930’s. So was women’s apparel retailer Deb Shops Inc. and sporting goods retailers Dunham’s Athleisure Corp. and Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI). The decade also brought us women’s apparel retailer Maurice’s which spent the early years of this century acquiring Dressbarn and Justice and becoming Ascena Retail Group Inc. 1940s As Europe, and later America, entered World War II, fashion responded. Drabness and uniformity in clothing were embraced, and people were encouraged to make do with the clothing they already had. During the war, all types of cloth were needed for a variety of wartime purposes, and material for clothing was severely rationed. The United States government had requisitioned all silk supplies, forcing the hosiery industry to completely switch to nylon. Then in 1942 the government requisitioned all nylon for parachutes and other war uses, leaving only the unpopular cotton and rayon stockings. As people found ways to make-do, the 1940’s saw the first widespread use of man-made fibers. NewsRoom.ChainStoreGuide.com 1-800-927-9292 Apparel Industry Due to the limited materials, fashions of the era emphasized shorter skirts than ever before and short, blocky jackets. The most characteristic North American fashion trend from the 1930’s to the end of World War II was attention at the shoulder, with butterfly sleeves and banjo sleeves, and exaggerated shoulder pads for both men and women by the 1940’s. Another notable fashion trend for women in this period was the introduction of the ensemble, a matching dress or skirt and coat. Despite the woes of the war, some big brands managed to jumpstart in the 1940’s. Coach was established in 1941. The Cato Corporation, Talbots and The Buckle Inc. were all started in the mid-1940’s. Hibbett Sports was founded in 1945, and Dick’s Sporting Goods in 1948. The most surprising was Fredericks of Hollywood, which would soon introduce the world’s first push-up bra. 1950s By the early 1950’s, designers had grown tired of the utilitarian, minimalist clothing of the wartime era. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the soft femininity of longer skirts, fitted waistlines, and rounded shoulders. Innovations in textile technology following WWII resulted in new synthetic fabrics and easy-care fabric finishes. These fit the suburban lifestyle of the 1950’s with its emphasis on casual sportswear for both men and women. Acrylic, polyester, triacetate and spandex were all introduced in the 1950’s. Although critics complained about the extravagance of clothing while rationing was still mandated, women throughout the country demanded the revitalized femininity of a new look. Longing for elegance and luxury, garments were often lined with luxurious, expensive fabrics. Decorative accessories became necessary items. Due to the baby boom, there was a high demand for clothing for children. Children’s clothing began to be made to a higher quality, and some even adopted trends popular with teenagers. Boys started wearing jeans to school and girls’ dresses were styled after those of the older women. NewsRoom.ChainStoreGuide.com 1-800-927-9292 Apparel Industry 1960s Prior to 1960, designers generally created styles for runways, and clothing manufacturers mass produced the designers’ styles for the general public. However, during the 1960s youth throughout the Western world began to rebel against traditional clothing styles and create their own trends. Soon, fashion designers and manufacturers were frantically trying to keep up with the trends and implement the youths’ popular creations into clothing for the masses. The bikini came into fashion in 1963. In the middle of the decade people were dressing in psychedelic prints, highlighter colors, and mismatched patterns. Mini- skirts and go-go boots were made popular. By the end of the decade the hippie look was in style. Both men and women wore frayed bell-bottomed jeans, tie-dyed shirts and headbands. Hundreds of apparel and footwear retailers and department store companies got their start in the 1960’s. Kohl’s Corporation was founded in 1962 and Dillard’s Inc. in 1964. Top retailers The TJX Companies Inc., Limited Brands, and Gap Inc. were also established in the swinging sixties. 1970s The 1970’s began with a continuation of the hippie look from the 1960’s including bell bottoms, miniskirts, hot pants and blue jeans. During the 1970’s a large variety of clothing became popular. It was normal for women to wear pants on a daily basis. In fact, many of the styles of the decade were androgynous. Another trend for both sexes was the fitted blazer, which flared slightly at the hip. It came in a variety of fabrics, including wool, velvet, suede, and leather. 1970’s fashion included platform shoes which appeared on the fashion scene in 1971 and often had soles two to four inches thick. Both men and women wore platform shoes. Wide-legged or flared jeans and trousers were another fashion mainstay. The disco look was popular and included three-piece suits for men and rayon or jersey wrap dresses for women. By the mid-1970’s hip-huggers were gone and were replaced by the high-waist jeans and trousers with wide flared legs. These lasted until the end of the decade when the straight cigarette-leg jeans came into style. NewsRoom.ChainStoreGuide.com 1-800-927-9292 Apparel Industry Several top companies were founded in the 1970’s. Top men’s apparel specialty retailers The Men’s Wearhouse and Destination XL Group Inc. were founded in 1973 and 1976, respectively. Top women’s retailers Bebe Stores, Body Central, Bon Worth, Cache, Charlotte Russe, Dots and Victoria’s Secret all started in the early to mid-1970’s. Family apparel stores starting in the decade include American Eagle, Burlington Coat Factory, Fifth & Pacific Cos., Rue 21, The Marmaxx Group and Urban Outfitters Inc. 1980s While high fashion had declined during the 1960’s and 1970’s, the 1980’s saw a rise in the popularity of designer styles. Wealthy people across the country made their way to New York boutiques and Paris fashion shows to purchase directly from designers’ lines. Mass producers replicated the high fashions for the general public and department stores specialized in selling them. Power and money dominated the styles of the 1980’s. Women wore expensive suits and dresses during the day and extravagant designer gowns in the evening. Brand names became increasingly important in this decade, making Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein household names, among others. Designer jewelry, such as diamonds and pearls were popular among many women, not only for beauty but as symbols of wealth and power. Ross Stores debuted in this decade to serve as an outlet for designer brands. Tween Brands got its start in the late 1980’s as Limited too stores introduced designer styles for girls. Top brands such as Aeropostale, BCBG, Express, Guess, J. Crew, J. Jill and Tommy Hilfiger were founded in the 1980’s. 1990s The range of fashion goods available in the 1990’s was huge. The main focus of fashion was the striving to achieve individuality. After the consuming years of the 1980’s, less became more in the 1990’s. The designer styles of the 1980’s were rejected in exchange for more comfortable, casual clothing. NewsRoom.ChainStoreGuide.com 1-800-927-9292 Apparel Industry Flannel shirts and ripped jeans were considered grunge fashion inspired by the new popular style of music. The rising hip-hop movement brought baggy pants into fashion. Comfort remained the key factor in clothing choice for most in the 1990’s. Standards for work relaxed, and casual dresses and pants became popular workplace attire. We can thank the naughty nineties for acid-washed jeans, parachute pants, and the mullet. Notable brands such as Cotton On, Lululemon, Lucy Activewear, Tommy Bahama, Under Armour and Vineyard Vines got their starts in the 1990’s.