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Technical Assistance: Technical 1-800-423-5280
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ASH BLUES ASH NEW
PERMANENT CONDITIONING HAIRCOLOR CONDITIONING PERMANENT SHADES EQ SHADES Processing Solution Processing ml) (60 oz. 2
COLOR GELS COLOR EQ SHADES 1 oz. (30 ml) 08T Silver Silver 08T ml) (30 oz. 1
SHADES EQ SHADES Mojave 08N ml) (30 oz. 1
Formula 1 Formula
GLAZE
BLONDE ICING BLONDE Conditioning Cream Developer Cream Conditioning volume 30 parts 2
BLONDE ICING BLONDE Power Lift Conditioning Cream Lightener Cream Conditioning Lift Power part 1
Formula 2 Formula
BLONDE ICING BLONDE Conditioning Cream Developer Cream Conditioning volume 20 parts 2
BLONDE ICING BLONDE Power Lift Conditioning Cream Lightener Cream Conditioning Lift Power part 1
Formula 1 Formula
HIGHLIGHT
COLOR GELS COLOR Developer volume 30 ml) (60 oz. 2
COLOR GELS COLOR 1 oz. (30 ml) 7AB Moonstone Moonstone 7AB ml) (30 oz. 1
COLOR GELS COLOR Twilight 5AB ml) (30 oz. 1
Formula 2 Formula
COLOR GELS COLOR Developer volume 20 ml) (60 oz. 2
COLOR GELS COLOR 1 oz. (30 ml) 7AB Moonstone Moonstone 7AB ml) (30 oz. 1
COLOR GELS COLOR Twilight 5AB ml) (30 oz. 1
Formula 1 Formula
BASE
Natural Level 4 Level Natural COVER MODEL’S FORMULA MODEL’S COVER All rights reserved. 50003898 7/09 50003898 reserved. rights All COLOR GELS NEW PERMANENT CONDITIONING HAIRCOLOR • Versatile, reliable and dynamic permanent haircolor • Provides exceptional gray coverage, from a few strands to high percentages of gray • Use to brighten, darken, change or correct, or for highlighting and creative color effects COLOR GELS • Select Dye System contains 100% oxidative, UV-stable, long-lasting dyes for holding power and resistance to fading • Contains protective wheat proteins and smoothing avocado oil • Formulated with a traditional 10-level system ASH BLUES • Over 50 shades in 12 tonal families, plus Clear and FASHION GELS EXTRA-COOLING SHADES FROM NEW YORK CITY FASHION GELS: › Achieve ultra-high lift with superior tonal control Is your haircolor ready for the camera? It will be with new Color Gels ASH BLUE › Lighten believably and brighten brilliantly in one simple step shades—5AB, 7AB and 8AB. Now you can create picture-perfect brunettes and sophisticated cool blondes with corrective ash blue tones. The exclusive Select COLOR GELS TONAL FAMILIES Dye System ensures long-lasting results with supple conditioning and shine. GN Green Natural Controls unwanted red tones when lifting Up the versatility of your haircolor palette. AB Ash Blue Offers maximum refinement of warmth
NA Natural Ash Controls warmth when lifting while ensuring natural results
N Natural Helps control warmth on pigmented hair and provides never too warm gray coverage
NW Natural Warm Provides exceptional gray coverage by adding depth and warmth to non-pigmented hair NEW 8AB NEW 7AB NEW 5AB NG Natural Gold Natural, soft golden shades Stardust Moonstone Twilight WG Warm Gold Creates warm results with golden accents and provides excellent gray coverage
CB Copper Browns Burnished copper with complete gray coverage
RB Ruby Brown Delivers soft ruby-like results and excellent gray coverage
RO Red/Orange Accent colors with no brown in the base
R Red Intense reds with increased tonal depth and no brown create exciting results on naturally pigmented hair
RV Red/Violet Jewel tones with no added brown deliver vibrant results
Color Gels Clear Non-pigmented; use alone when no toning is desired or use for diluting other COLOR GELS shades
FASHION GELS BLONDE SERIES All FASHION GELS shades can be used on levels 5 and lighter B Blue For maximum control of orange undertones. Best for use on level 5 light brown hair
BV Blue Violet For control of yellow-orange undertones. Best for use on level 6 dark blonde hair
V Violet For control of yellow undertones. Best for use on level 7 medium blonde hair
G Gold For increased warmth and a hint of golden yellow. For beautiful golden blonde results
Clear Non-pigmented for maximum lift without deposit or for diluting other FASHION GELS shades PRE-SERVICE STEPS ADDITIONAL REDKEN COLOR COLLECTION PRE-SERVICE BEST PRACTICES Before you begin any chemical service... REDKEN PRODUCTS • Precisely follow package instructions for haircolor, lightener and texture products Redken offers advanced in-salon treatments plus a complete collection of haircare • Wear suitable gloves for all applications and styling products to enhance your talents: • Perform necessary patch tests as outlined in the directions • Utilize protective smocks or capes for you and your clients during the service TRANSFORM THEIR HAIR. BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. REDKEN CHEMISTRY SKIN ALLERGY TEST A comprehensive system of products, Redken Chemistry helps you create PERFORM A SKIN ALLERGY TEST 48 HOURS BEFORE EACH USE OF THIS customized in-salon services to treat and transform every client’s hair. It also offers PRODUCT, AS ALLERGIES CAN DEVELOP SUDDENLY, EVEN THOUGH YOUR your salon profitable service opportunities and increased retail revenue when you CLIENT HAS PREVIOUSLY USED A HAIRCOLOR PRODUCT FROM THIS recommend the appropriate take-home products. BRAND OR ANOTHER. If your client has a tattoo, the risk of an allergic reaction may be increased.
SKIN ALLERGY TEST INSTRUCTIONS • Clean an area the size of a quarter in the bend of your client’s elbow with soap and water. Pat dry. • Using a plastic utensil, mix 1 part COLOR GELS to 1 part COLOR GELS SPECIFIC NEEDS. SIMPLE SOLUTIONS. 20 volume Developer (the ratio should be 1 part hair-colorant to 1 part developer) REDKEN HAIRCARE. in a plastic or glass container. Tightly recap the hair-colorant and developer. Whether hair needs moisture, volume, softness, control, or daily protection, Redken Do not use metal utensils. offers solutions with a complete collection of scientifically advanced, benefit-driven shampoos, conditioners and treatments that deliver what they promise. SHADES EQ SHIMMER ONE COLOR FUSION** COLOR GELS REDKEN FOR MEN • Apply mixture to the test area with a cotton swab or ball. Equalizing Conditioning 20-Min. Shine-Infusing Advanced Performance Permanent Conditioning COLOR CAMO • Let test spot dry. Instruct client not to wash, cover or disturb test area for Color Gloss Color Cream Color Cream Haircolor 5–10 Min. Custom 48 hours. • #1 Ammonia-Free, • Ammonia-Free, • 100% oxidative dyes • Select Dye System Gray Camouflage • Instruct client to examine test area periodically over the next 48 hours. If he/she long-lasting, acidic, liquid permanent color deliver healthy-looking, contains 100% oxidative, • Advanced ammonia-free, demi-permanent haircolor* UV-stable, long-lasting experiences any reactions—such as redness, burning, itching, swelling, skin • Use for Level-on-Level, multi-dimensional permanent dye technology dyes, permanent liquid abrasions, eruptions or irritation in or around the test area, DO NOT COLOR • Use to glaze, refresh, Level-Up, Level(s)-Down, permanent haircolor results with demi-permanent color resistant to fading YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR UNTIL HE OR SHE HAS CONSULTED A DOCTOR. correct and blend gray Balance and Tone, and • Use to lighten, darken, results offers 5 or 10 minute RUNWAY STYLE…EVERYDAY processing and increased • Contains wheat amino acids Brighten effects with match natural color or • Use for excellent gray ONLY BY REDKEN STYLING coverage coverage STRAND TEST With a full range of high-performance products, Redken Styling gives you the ability for healthy, shiny color with long-lasting results cover gray COLOR GELS may be readily accepted by porous hair that has been chemically to create any hairstyle—sleek or textured, up or down, subtle or extreme. What’s incredible conditioning and superior shine • Colorbond Technology™ • Contains protective wheat • Use to camouflage and treated or damaged from environmental exposure or heat styling. Always conduct more, the caring formulas strengthen and protect hair as you style. • Tri-Light Technology™ locks in and protects color proteins and smoothing blend gray a preliminary strand test to determine how the hair will accept color. Apply COLOR • Over 50 shades, plus Crystal delivers soft, radiant color, with intense conditioning avocado oil • Contains protein and quinoa GELS to a small section of hair and process according to instructions; adjust the Clear and Color Kickers locks in moisture and and radiant shine oil for strength and shine formula accordingly. • Over 50 shades in 12 tonal protection • Over 100 shades in families, plus Clear and • 6 natural-looking shades in • 26 shades, plus Clear 6 categories FASHION GELS 2 families
* behindthechair.com Stylist Choice Award 2001–2009 ** behindthechair.com Stylist Choice Award 2006–2009 FASHION GELS
NO BACKGROUND COLOR
FASHION GELS BLONDE SERIES B BV V G Blue Blue Violet Violet Gold Clear COLOR GELS PERMANENT CONDITIONING HAIRCOLOR
LEVEL & GREEN NATURAL ASH BLUE NATURAL ASH NATURAL* NATURAL WARM* NATURAL GOLD WARM GOLD* COPPER BROWN* RUBY BROWN* RED/ORANGE RED RED/VIOLET DESCRIPTION TONE: Yellow/Green TONE: Blue TONE: Corrective Tone TONE: Blue/Violet TONE: Natural Level Tone TONE: Gold TONE: Yellow/Orange TONE: Orange TONE: RedViolet TONE: Red/Orange TONE: Red TONE: Red/Violet
BLACK TO GRAY BACKGROUND COLOR BROWN TO TAN BACKGROUND COLOR NO BACKGROUND COLOR
10 ULTRA PALE BLONDE 10NA 10N 10NW 10NG Silk Crème Latté Macadamia Nut Honey
9 VERY LIGHT BLONDE 9NA 9N 9NW 9NG 9RO Platinum Ice Café au Lait Irish Creme Vanilla Creme Papaya
8 LIGHT BLONDE 8GN NEW 8AB 8NA 8N 8NW 8NG 8WG Ivy Stardust Mojave Sesame Safari Sunflower Golden Apricot
7 MEDIUM BLONDE NEW 7AB 7NA 7N 7NW 7NG 7RO 7R Moonstone Mirage Bamboo Chestnut Saffron Marigold Flame
6 DARK BLONDE 6GN 6NA 6N 6NW 6NG 6WG 6CB 6RO 6R Moss Moroccan Sand Suede Brandy St. Tropez Mango Cognac Bonfire Rocket Fire
5 LIGHT BROWN NEW 5AB 5NA 5N 5NW 5NG 5CB 5RB 5RO 5RV Twilight Walnut Coffee Bean Cappuccino Caramel Sandalwood Manzanita Paprika Scarlett
4 MEDIUM BROWN 4NA 4N 4NW 4NG 4WG 4CB 4RB 4R 4RV Chicory Hazelnut Maple Pecan Sun Tea Clove Mulberry Lava Cabernet
3 DARK BROWN 3N 3NW 3RB Espresso Mocha Java Mahogany
2 DARKEST BROWN 2NW Chocolate
1 BLACK 1NW Midnight
* Superior Gray Coverage Family
1. TECHNICAL INFORMATION 3. MIXING & PROCESSING
UNDERSTANDING THE LABEL THE COLOR WHEEL MIXING RATIO COLOR GELS LEVELS OFF-SCALP/ SPECIAL EXAMPLE: 9-10 USAGE MINUTES YELLOW (COLOR : DEVELOPER) DEVELOPER OF LIFT HEAT OPTION INSTRUCTIONS
8 Level 8 Family YELLOW / ORANGE YELLOW / GREEN 10 volume Up to 1 Minimal Lift 20 (Light Blonde) 8AB (Ash Blue) Standard Lift/ 20 volume Up to 2 30 Refer to the “Guidelines Stardust COLOR Gray Coverage for Covering Gray Hair” 7 Mix 1:1 Do not use heat. GREEN GELS section for superior ORANGE 30 volume Up to 3 Additional Lift 40 gray coverage Shade Name 40 volume 3+ Maximum Lift 45 BACKGROUND COLOR AND TONE 6 Background Color is the portion of the color base that helps produce balanced, RED / ORANGE BLUE / GREEN natural looking results and gives the shade its foundation. Brown to tan background helps ensure gray coverage and black to gray background helps to diminish warmth when lifting. Tone is the portion of the base that gives a shade its unique character. 5 1 RED BLUE FASHION GELS are FASHION High lift for only intermixable with WORKING WITH UNDERTONES Mix 1:2 40 volume Up to 4 45 Do not use heat. levels 5 and up each other, not with Undertones are the unrefined warm tones exposed during the lifting process. GELS Always consider the exposed undertones visible at the target level. COLOR GELS 4 2 Use the Color Wheel to counteract or enhance undertones. To counteract undertones, RED / VIOLET BLUE / VIOLET select a shade level with tonal value opposite to the undertone exposed at the target level. Remember, opposites neutralize. To enhance undertones, select a shade with a 3 tonal value similar to the undertone exposed at the target level. VIOLET 2. FORMULATION 4. APPLICATION FORMULATION GUIDELINES GUIDELINES FOR COVERING GRAY HAIR UNDERSTANDING “ZONES” ON-SCALP To cover gray means to minimize the contrast between natural hair and gray hair. 1. Determine your client’s natural hair color level using the COLOR GELS Redken uses the term “Zones” to refer to specific areas of the hair strand. For all on-scalp applications, start with dry hair and divide into 4 sections. Take ¼" To maintain the most control when covering gray, select a formula no more than Natural Warm (NW) family swatches found in the swatch book. Remember The hair is divided into 3 Zones. Each Zone will accept color differently based (0.5 cm) partings for even saturation. Process according to Mixing & Processing two levels lighter than the natural hair. to consider percentage of gray, hair texture, condition, and hair density. on the condition of the hair. Understanding Zones will help you achieve even chart. Rinse, shampoo and condition with COLOR EXTEND. color results. 2. Determine the target color (final level and tone) desired by your client. SUPERIOR GRAY COVERAGE FAMILIES TRADITIONAL VIRGIN APPLICATION 3. Determine the undertone found at the target level (see Color Wheel). 5 COLOR GELS families can be used alone to provide superior gray coverage in a EXAMPLE: variety of tonal reflects: 4. Select the COLOR GELS shade to enhance, balance or counteract Zone 2 Formula: 2 oz. (60 ml) 5N Coffee Bean COLOR GELS + Zone 1 undertones and volume of developer needed to achieve the target color. Zone 1 is approximately 2 oz. (60 ml) 30 volume COLOR GELS Developer NATURAL WARM COPPER RUBY the first 1" of the hair— % of Gray NATURAL WARM GOLD BROWN BROWN Zone 1 Formula: 2 oz. (60 ml) 5N Coffee Bean COLOR GELS + FORMULATION EXAMPLE FOR LIFTING NATURAL PIGMENT: also referred to as the 2 oz. (60 ml) 20 volume COLOR GELS Developer 1. Natural Level: 5 light blonde/0% gray Up to 100% N only NW only WG only CB only RB only scalp area or regrowth • Apply selected formula with a higher volume of COLOR GELS Developer 2. Target Color: Level 7 medium blonde with natural tones Zone 2 3. Undertone at Level 7: orange PROVIDING COVERAGE IN A VARIETY OF REFLECTS Zone 2 is the mid-shaft to Zone 2 (the mid-shaft). 4. Formula: 7NA Mirage COLOR GELS + 20 volume COLOR GELS Developer For the most effective gray coverage when using the cooling and correcting or area of the hair strand and • Immediately apply to Zone 1 (the scalp area) a new mixture of the same warming and enhancing tonal families, follow the chart below. begins where Zone 1 ends Zone 2 formula with a lower volume of COLOR GELS Developer. NOTE: The tones of the NW and NA families will vary according to the Color Wheel. • Start the processing time after the Zone 1 application is complete. For example: 5NW will have a red tone and 5NA will have a green tone. The tones COOLING FAMILIES: WARMING FAMILIES: Zone 3 is either overly Zone 3 porous hair (ends) or will change at each level. GN, AB, NA NG, RO, R, RV RETOUCH APPLICATION hair that extends past Proportion of NW, WG, Proportion of • Apply selected formula to Zone 1 (the regrowth). % of Gray N other shades CB or RB other shades the shoulders in length NATURAL ASH TONES NATURAL WARM TONES (not all hair has a Zone 3) Up to 25% 2 oz. (60 ml) ½ oz. (15 ml) 1 ½ oz. (45 ml) TO REFRESH ZONES 2 AND 3 10NA Violet 10NW Pale Yellow 25–50% ½ oz. (15 ml) 1 ½ oz. (45 ml) ¾ oz. (22.5 ml) 1 ¼ oz. (37.5 ml) OPTION 1: 9NA Violet 9NW Yellow Use the Zone 1 formula and apply to Zone 2 for the last 5–10 minutes. Strand test 8NA Blue/Violet 8NW Yellow/Orange 50–75% 1 oz. (30 ml) 1 oz. (30 ml) 1 oz. (30 ml) 1 oz. (30 ml) to determine appropriate processing time. 7NA Blue 7NW Orange 75–100% 1 ½ oz. (45 ml) ½ oz. (15 ml) 1 ½ oz. (45 ml) ½ oz. (15 ml) 6NA Blue/Green 6NW Red/Orange OPTION 2: 5NA Green 5NW Red Formulate SHADES EQ Equalizing Conditioning Color Gloss to match Zone 1 4NA Yellow/Green 4NW Red/Violet FORMULATION EXAMPLE FOR COVERING GRAY: result. Process at room temperature for up to 20 minutes. If Zone 3 (porous ends) 3NW Violet 1. Natural Level: 4 medium brown/75–100% gray is present, reduce timing or use a diluted formula. Strand test for proper deposit. 2NW Blue/Violet 2. Target Color: Level 6 dark blonde with natural golden tones 1NW Blue 3. Undertone at Level 6: red/orange 4. Formula: 1 ½ oz. 6NW Brandy COLOR GELS + ½ oz. 6NG St. Tropez COLOR GELS + 20 volume COLOR GELS Developer
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