Buyer’s guide to Swiss An enigma to many, this Alpine nation at the heart of Europe produces some excitingly diverse quality , though many never make it beyond its borders. Sue Style takes us on a tour, and recommends 12 to try

WHEN I STARTED exploring and writing about into another gear. Firstly, the Swiss wines 30 years ago, few people had federal government no longer agreed to buy up heard of them beyond the borders of this tiny, swimming pools (literally) of unsold mountainous, landlocked country. Even today – neutral, mildly fizzy, inevitably designated as when I sing their praises – which I do at every a vin de soif – at guaranteed prices, or oceans available opportunity – I still get more than a of Dôle, then a dull blend of and Above: picture curiosities and hunting down original, few raised eyebrows. that did few favours to either . In postcard views of exciting wines that stand out from the crowd, Switzerland’s six wine regions Many people are unaware that wines are parallel, restrictions on foreign wine imports in , these Alpine treasures are worth seeking out. produced here. Others have heard of them, were lifted. which produces a third Valais (33% of total wine volume Geneva (10%) In the foothills of the and maybe even unearthed a few jewels – a Producers were forced to conclude that, in a of Switzerland’s wine Regional essentials produced) In the heart of the , sub-Alpine Jura mountains and rare from the Valais, perhaps, or high-cost country, the only game in town was Switzerland’s vineyards – 15,000 hectares in with vineyards extending over both banks of the Rhône as it leaves a fragrant Pinot Noir from one of the cool- quality. Novel varieties have since been total; about half the planted area of Burgundy 100km along the Rhône river the western end of climate, German-speaking cantons; a complex pioneered by the federal research station at – are a magnificent patchwork of widely Chasselas from the Lavaux vineyards that rise Changins, ancient varieties resurrected and varying climates and , from the cool, (25%) Predominantly along (7%) On the southern side of in majesty above Lake Geneva, or even a sleek new to Switzerland planted. verdant slopes of the northern cantons to the the shores of Lake Geneva, with some the Alps close to the Italian border, from Italian-speaking Ticino. And while the older generation has been sunbaked Alpine terraces and parched heat of vineyards at the southwestern end with abundant sunshine tempered by Inevitably the question of price comes up, quietly investing its ever-strengthening Swiss the Valais. Of the wines, 58% is red and 42% of Lake Neuchâtel lake-effect rain from its proximity swiftly followed by the complaint that Swiss francs in vineyards, barriques and even the ‘In a high- white, with Pinot Noir and Chasselas leading to Lakes Lugano and Maggiore wines are hard to find outside the country. occasional concrete egg fermenter, the the pack respectively. German-speaking region (19%) younger generation of winemakers has been cost country, The country divides itself, wine wise, into Widely scattered across 17 Three Lakes (5%) Mostly on the What’s new? off on study trips and internships in France, six distinct regions (see box, right). Starting in German-speaking cantons from slopes of the Jura along the Wine has been made in Switzerland – as it has Australia and New Zealand. the only the north, a virtual tour takes us first to the Basel and Aargau in the northwest northern banks of Lake Neuchâtel, throughout Europe – for at least 2,000 years, The net result has been a significant rise in German-speaking region, which sprawls via Zurich, Schaafhausen and with the balance on the equivalent but it’s the past 20 years that have seen the quality and a welcome increase in the ‘tingle game in town across gently hilly farming country running Thurgau, to St Gallen and shores of nearby Lakes Biel/Bienne greatest changes. Two key developments came factor’ of Swiss wines. At a time when more from Basel through Aargau, Zurich, Graubünden in the east and Murten/Morat in the 1990s, which helped to push Swiss and more people are interested in sampling was quality’ Schaffhausen and Thurgau to Graubünden, ➢ Photo Stock blickwinkel/Alamy Photograph:

72 | January 2017 • DECANTER • January 2017 | 73 SWITZERLAND

Five names to look out for

The star of the show is Heida, grown in the vineyards of Visperterminen at 800m altitude, giving a deep golden wine of exotic character and class. www.chanton.ch Louis-Philippe Bovard in Cully, Vaud Lord of Lavaux, Bovard started out as a lawyer and now heads the 18ha Martha and Daniel Gantenbein family estate with vines in prime Gantenbein in Malans, sites from Lausanne all the way Graubünden around to Vevey. His recently created Conservatoire Mondial du Martha and Daniel Gantenbein’s Chasselas, planted with 19 different handcrafted wines are among the Chasselas varieties, aims to explore few Swiss wines to have gained which ones are best suited to international fame. Every step is Lavaux’s uniquely positioned, dictated by a single-minded clay-limestone soils. But Bovard is Above: Completer tucked in beneath the Alps on the eastern pursuit of perfection, from the also an iconoclast, bringing Chenin wines made by border with Liechtenstein. selection table in the vineyards and , Merlot and Donatsch in Malans, This German-speaking region turns out through the architect-designed to what was once only one of the few some of Switzerland’s most exciting and cellar to the array of barrels territory for Chasselas. producers in the world ageworthy Pinot Noir (sometimes labelled toasted by Burgundy’s best www.domainebovard.com to use this rare grape Blauburgunder) and . Growers coopers. Elegant, complex, long- acknowledge the role of climate change, which lived Pinot Noir and Chardonnay Jean-Pierre Pellegrin in – with a little help from the Föhn, the warm (plus some ), produced in Peissy, Geneva wind that caresses the autumn vineyards – minute quantities and dispensed Pellegrin is nicknamed ‘the has brought increased ripeness to these by the drop through a small watchmaker of ’ for the northerly grapes. Meanwhile Müller-Thurgau, network of global distributors. beauty and precision of his wines. known in Switzerland as Riesling-Sylvaner, has www.gantenbeinwine.com Responsible for an eclectic range upped its game, since many winemakers have from white and red blends aimed reduced or eliminated their use of malolactic Above: the steep, terraced Chasselas vineyards of Geneva brings us to Vaud, the nerve-centre of Marie-Therese Chappaz at the Swiss gastropub market fermentation, giving a crisper profile to this Lavaux at St-Saphorin, looking across Lake Geneva Chasselas. If ever Switzerland had a signature in Fully, Valais through fine Chardonnay, otherwise mild-mannered wine. towards Lausanne grape, comments Swiss wine writer, author Chappaz is often described as Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier Two white specialities to seek out in this and consultant Chandra Kurt, Chasselas would la grande dame of Valais’ wine varietals to elegant Domaine region include the historic Räuschling, grown be the obvious candidate. In the giddyingly growers, with 10ha of vines planted Grand’Cour white and red blends. on the shores of Lake Zurich, and the Much to discover steep vineyards of Lavaux, stacked above the on steep terraces braced by dry- The pinnacle of his production are vanishingly rare Completer, produced by Continuing around the country in a clockwise lake from Vevey around to Lausanne, the stone walls and farmed along the oak-aged Chardonnay, Pinot Donatsch in Malans in tiny quantities and direction, we come to Valais, the country’s grape over-delivers to give wines of rare depth biodynamic lines. Several cuvées Noir, Merlot and Syrah wines, aged in used oak barrels to tame the grape’s largest wine region, producing one-third of all and complexity. of Fendant (Chasselas) illustrate designated C, P, M and S natural acidity. ‘We’re the largest producers of Swiss bottlings. The climate was once On the red front, Pinot Noir and Gamay ‘If ever her belief that the grape is a great respectively. +41 22 753 15 00 Completer in the world,’ jokes Martin Donatsch described by poet Rainer Maria Rilke as a have a new challenger in Vaud: ‘Who would reflector of , her Petite Switzerland – hard to dispute, since barely anyone else in cross between Provence and southern Spain, have thought we would ever grow Merlot Arvine (including a late-) is the world makes it. with an annual sunshine rate to rival both. here?’ wonders winemaker Luc Massy, legendary and her Dôle (the Valais had a Across the Alps via the San Bernardino Pass Here, confirms Gilles Besse, oenologist at who is not alone in acknowledging the extent blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay) is Ticino, Switzerland’s Italian-speaking Lake Domaine Jean-René Germanier in Vétroz and to which global warming is changing the Swiss unusually dense and racy. signature District. Though its steep terraces bask in head of Swiss Wine Promotion, quality and landscape. www.chappaz.ch sunshine much of the year, it has about twice professionalism are now the norm, and the At the western end of the croissant-shaped grape, the precipitation of neighbouring Valais. days of ‘les vignerons du samedi’ (part-time lake are the Geneva vineyards, formerly Chanton in Visp, Valais Merlot rules here, mainly as a single varietal grape-growers) a distant memory. known for tank-loads of overcropped and Josef-Marie (aka Chosy) Chanton, Chasselas but increasingly in Bordeaux-inspired blends. Valais is a happy hunting ground for lovers underperforming Chasselas and dilute Gamay. now succeeded by son Mario, has Straw-hatted Ivo Monti of Cantina Monti of rare grape varieties: Amigne, Arvine, The region has embraced the quality-over- spent a lifetime resurrecting and would be the ferments his prize-winning wines to the Cornalin, Humagne Rouge and Heida have quantity message with particular fervour: rebuilding a collection of the strains of salsa and then soothes them gently replaced swathes of Chasselas (known here as Jean-Pierre Pellegrin of Domaine Grand’Cour Valais’ near-extinct specialities obvious with Bach in the barrel. ‘Merlot is a great Fendant), alongside the well-established reds notes that while the total vineyard area here including Lafnetscha, Himbertscha, soloist,’ he comments, ‘but in a blend you get of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Gamay. has not decreased, yields have halved – or in Resi, Gwäss and Petite Arvine. Mario and Josef-Marie Chanton

candidate’ the whole orchestra.’ Following the Rhône downstream to Lake his case, quartered. The area is buzzing ➢ Photo Stock ImageBroker/Alamy Photograph:

74 | January 2017 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2017 | 75 SWITZERLAND

with young talent, such as rising star Sophie drink fine wine from both the Old and the Dugerdil, who recently left a career as a New World and draw inspiration from these Swiss grape varieties teacher to take over the family vineyards and international benchmarks. who is branching out with new varieties The combined effects of the quality [Petite] Arvine Thrilling, Valais where it gives grand, Merlot in Ticino including Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc as imperative, seasoned local palates and steady newly trendy white variety spicy whites of great well as Sauvignon Blanc. investment, along with Swiss meticulousness indigenous to the Valais. distinction With the tiny Three Lakes region, which and an appetite for innovation (the country Wines vary from straddles Switzerland’s linguistic French- topped the WIPO Global Innovation Index lipsmackingly dry with Amigne Another ancient German border in the far west, our Swiss wine again in 2016) have all borne fruit. Swiss grapefruit tones and a white variety indigenous to tour comes full circle. Vines flourish on the wines are scaling new heights and catching characteristic salty finish, to the Valais. Small-berried, shores of Lakes Neuchâtel, Biel/Bienne and the eye of curious wine drinkers. lusciously sweet and highly late-ripening, giving luscious, Murten/Morat. Loyalties here lie with Pinot And that pesky question of price? Good concentrated from late- honeyed wines of varying Noir – the ones from Neuchâtel frequently wine is expensive to produce, wherever it harvested grapes sweetness levels score in international competitions and in the comes from. I’m increasingly convinced that annual Grand Prix du Vin Suisse – and top Swiss wine, when measured against Chasselas (Fendant) Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) Chasselas, which gives fine, nervy aperitif quality wines from other countries, represents Typically gives delicate, Switzerland’s most widely wines, quite unlike the fleshy, long-lived good value for money. To put price in low-acid, low-alcohol wines planted grape, the best Chasselas of Lavaux. perspective, you need to compare like with like.

with a slight CO2 prickle. traditionally from So, the next time you reach for a New Planted in prime sites Graubünden in the east and High time to try Zealand Pinot Noir, consider instead a Swiss (notably Lavaux), it can give Neuchâtel in the west, with Distinctive, late-ripening Merlot Arrived in Ticino from Swiss wines will never be exported in any Pinot from Neuchâtel or one of the northern wines of distinction and increasingly impressive Valais variety; can have a Bordeaux in 1906 and now quantity; currently only about 1.5% of cantons. If white Burgundy or the northern subtle depth examples from Aargau, rustic character and occupies 90% of the canton’s production ever leaves the country. ‘Our Rhône are your default choices, take a chance: Zurich and Schaffhausen pronounced tannins, but in vineyard area. Made both as a problem is we can’t even produce enough for look for a Chardonnay from Graubünden in Sue Style is a freelance Heida (Païen) The the right hands it gives varietal and in Bordeaux-style ourselves,’ comments Besse. This doesn’t the country’s southeast, or a Valais Syrah wine, food and travel grape of Jura fame, now Humagne Rouge Correctly scented, cherry-red wines blends, plus small amounts mean Swiss winemakers are unaware of what’s instead. And if you love Pomerol, take a punt writer, whose nine firmly established in the known as Cornalin [d’Aoste]. that can age with elegance vinified as going on beyond their borders. On the on one of the top coming out of Ticino books include A Taste contrary: they travel – and taste – widely, in the far south, or from Geneva. D of Switzerland

Style’s selection: Swiss wines to seek out

Jean-René Germanier, Cru de l’Hôpital, Traminer, Vully, Three Badoux, Aigle Les Murailles, Donatsch, Passion Pinot Noir, Simon Maye, Humagne Gialdi, Sassi Grossi, Ticino 2013 91 Petite Arvine, Valais 2015 Lakes 2015 89 Vaud 2015 88 Graubünden 2013 93 Rouge, Valais 2012 92 £48-£57.70 (2012) Alpine Wines, Hedonism 90 N/A UK www.cru-hopital.ch £27.60 Alpine Wines £40.62 (2012) Alpine Wines £30 (2011) Alpine Wines Elegant Merlot from Gialdi’s more £30 Alpine Wines, L’Assemblage Precise, elegant, dry Gewurztraminer – An elegant Chasselas grown The Donatsch family are undisputed Stamped with the character of northerly Tre Valli gneiss and granite Classic Petite Arvine from a speciality for this region by oenologist on steep shale/gravel terraces champions of Pinot Noir. Passion, the sun-baked, limestone vineyards. Spends 16 months in barriques Germanier’s dramatic Christian Vessaz. Discreet lychees and above Aigle. Gently floral produced from 30- to 40-year-old vines, Zouma vineyard, this unoaked (80% new), in barrel-vaulted, naturally clay-schist moraine vineyards roses on the nose, then a rich, exotic nose, good minerality and a is the second of three cuvées, which Valais speciality has lively, cooled cellars beneath Monte Ceneri. around Vétroz in central mouthful with all the typicity and memorable, slightly bitter they benchmark against premier cru black cherry and berry Magnificent plummy aromas, well- Valais. Grapefruit aromas and minerality of great Alsace Gewurz (and finish – Switzerland in a glass, Burgundy. Sensitive oaking (new and aromas, spicy, peppery integrated oak and delightful freshness a rich, intense but fully dry none of the sweetness of the less great). preferably sipped on a terrace used), rounded tannins and beautiful flavours and forward fruit for a wine of such structure. Drink palate with Arvine’s typical Drink 2017-2019 Alc 14.7% overlooking Lake Geneva. balance. A memorable mouthful. tannins, conferring brightness 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% saline finish. My desert-island Swiss Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13.5% and lift. A wine with personality. white. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Luc Massy, Chemin de Fer, Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.8% Peter Wegelin, Malanser Dézaley, Vaud 2014 89 Cantina Monti, Il Canto della Terra, Jean-René Germanier, Cayas Syrah, Blauburgunder, Graubünden Brivio, Bianco Rovere, Ticino 2014 89 £36.36 Alpine Wines Ticino 2011 94 Valais 2013 93 Weingut zum Sternen, Kloster Sion 2014 91 £34.10-£36 Alpine Wines, Hedonism Dézaley is Lavaux’s most iconic N/A UK www.cantinamonti.ch £49.39 Alpine Wines, L’Assemblage Pinot Noir, Klingnau, Aargau 2013 92 £40.80 (2012) Alpine Wines Alongside his stunning range of Merlots site and Massy one of the Winner of the Gran Maestro du Merlot in A thoroughbred Syrah grown on schist N/A UK www.weingut-sternen.ch Prize-winning Pinot aged 12 and Bordeaux-inspired red blends, leading interpreters of its the 2017 Mondial du Merlot. From on the right (south-facing) bank of the A textbook, cool-climate Swiss Pinot months in 500-litre casks Brivio and its winemaker Alfred de terroir. Unlike most Chasselas 40-year-old vines, the grapes are Rhône. Clear signs of plenty of Alpine Noir, one of eight different bottlings by from multi-award winning Martin make this distinguished white, (Massy makes three quite foot-trodden and the wine aged in used sun, yet impressively fresh. The two years practised Pinot producer and vine grower Peter Wegelin. elegantly oaked in 70% new barriques distinct examples), Chemin de barriques. Sweetly oaky nose, an spent in oak barrels (50% new) is nurseryman Andreas Meier. Bright, Succulent, crushed red fruit and boasting toasty, smoky, curried Fer has an intensely honeyed explosion of blackcurrants, black cherries beautifully disciplined, giving a spicy, black cherry characters, subtly oaked on a shapely, well-structured hints. Characterful and full-bodied, nose, terrific structure, and chocolate on the palate. Suave and leathery, complex wine. Gorgeous now with fine structure and beautifully palate – it’s practically calling for Mediterranean-style minerality and staying power – definitely seductive, it sings of its steep, sunny with barbecued rib of beef, but patient integrated tannins. Poised, elegant and irresistible. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% chargrilled fish and vegetables. a wine for food, rather than an aperitif. slopes above Lake Lugano. cellaring will be rewarded. Drink dangerously drinkable. Drink 2017-2020 Drink 2017-2027 Alc 14% Drink 2017-2026 Alc 13% Drink 2017-2021 Alc 14% 2017-2033 Alc 13.5% Alc 13.5% For full details of UK stockists, see p94

76 | January 2017 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2017 | 77