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Published by the ELCOME TO THE 2003-04 edition of Australia’s Welcome new Tr opical Rainforests World WHeritage Magazine. Over 130,000 copies of the magazine are Board members distributed to residents and visitors to the World Heritage Area, from HE WET TROPICS MANAGEMENT Townsville to Cooktown. AUTHORITY welcomes Lieutenant TGeneral John Grey AC as the new Chair The magazine is packed with stories of the Wet Tropics Board. John replaces Professor about the animals, plants and people Tor Hundloe whose term expired last September. that live in and around Australia’s John has a distinguished 45-year executive career Tr opical Rainforests. These forests in Australia’s public sector and brings strong were placed on the World Heritage leadership skills to the Board. He has headed numerous regional volunteer groups and advisory ABOVE: Lieutenant General John Grey AC, list in recognition of their importance panels and has a strong community spirit. as the oldest continually surviving the new Chair of the Wet Tropics Board. John says he is enthusiastic about tackling some of general manager for eight years and now the tropical rainforest on earth. the issues faced in management of the World corporation’s chief executive officer, Percy brings to Heritage Area. the Board a wealth of experience in Aboriginal “I look forward to playing an active role in the affairs. management of this unique and very special part of Herberton Shire Mayor Anne Portess and north Queensland. Townsville-based James Cook University academic “This very special Area has qualities that are Peter Valentine are continuing Board members found nowhere else in the world and I think its until late 2003. Management of the World Heritage Area is the very important that we ensure it is passed on to responsibility of the Wet Tropics Management The Board oversees the management of the Wet future generations unharmed by our enjoyment of Authority, a Cairns-based agency funded by the Tropics World Heritage Area and is appointed by Queensland and Commonwealth Governments. it,” he said. the State and Federal Environment Ministers. Opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Authority and, while every A new Aboriginal representative on the Board has effort has been made to check the accuracy of also been appointed. Mr Percy Neal is replacing articles, the Authority can not accept responsibility previous Aboriginal representative Eric Deeral from Australia’s Tropical Rainforests have for any errors and omissions. Cooktown. Any comments or ideas for future issues are over 2,800 different plant species welcome. Send them to: Percy is an Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander and more than 700 species are The Editor Councillor and a Yarrabah Community Councillor. found nowhere else in the world. Deanna Belbin As Bama Ngappi Ngappi Aboriginal Corporation’s Australia’s Tropical Rainforests World Heritage Magazine PO Box 2050 Cairns Qld Australia 4870 Ph: (07) 4052 0555 Fax (07) 4031 1364 Email [email protected] Our cover

ALLAMAN FALLS is the largest single drop waterfall in Australia, Wplummeting 305m from an picture imposing sheer cliff face, reminiscent of a Jurassic landscape. The falls are part of the 124,000ha Wallaman Falls Rock Pools Track (600m) Lumholtz National Park in the south of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. The Rock Pools Track leaves from the campground area and follows Stoney Creek upstream for about Walks around the park vary from short strolls to 600m to a swimming area amongst the rocks. Don't adventurous climbs for the avid explorer. Camping swim if the water is over the rocks and flowing fast. and picnic facilities are available. Register for camping at the self-registration hut located next to > How to get there the camping grounds. Wallaman Falls is 51km drive west of Ingham, Wallaman Falls Track Gorge Lookout (600m) including 18km of unsealed road. Normal travel time is about an hour each way. Travel 8km west of The Gorge Lookout is a short bitumen path sloping Ingham to Trebonne and turn left, then follow the gently down from the carpark to a lookout over the signs to Wallaman Falls, over the Stone River and sheer gorge downstream of the falls. The Wallaman up the coastal range. Caravans and trailers are not Falls Track continues to the bottom of the falls. recommended for the coastal range road. The For more information on walks in the World Wallaman Falls Track (1km) lookout and the campground are about 2km apart on different forks of the road near the falls. Heritage Area check out these websites: From the Gorge Lookout, take the steeper, rougher WetTropics Management Authority track down to Stoney Creek in the gorge below. This > Contact > www.wettropics.gov.au is a difficult descent and climb and you will need to QPWS Ingham office for road conditions on Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service be sure of your footing and energy levels. However, (07) 4777 2822. > www.epa.qld.gov.au the rewards are ever changing perspectives of the falls Queensland Government and gorge and the chance to swim in the river below Cover picture supplied by: Townsville Enterprise Limited > www.smartservice.qld.gov.au. if the water is not too high. (07) 4726 2728.

2 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE RAINFOREST REVIEW What walk, which way? Walking tips Wild about Wet Tropics If you’re overwhelmed by the variety of walks in •The hot, humid conditions of the tropics Wet Tropics wildlife has been captured in a series of the World Heritage Area, fear no more. Planning and the exertion of walking can result in posters produced by the Wet Tropics Management your wilderness trek or rainforest ramble is as easy the loss of 1-2 litres of body fluid per hour. Authority in conjunction with The Cairns Post as the push of a button. The answer is to walk slowly, rest often newspaper. The wildlife poster series features and carry plenty of water. photos and information on Wet Tropics bush Exploring the World Heritage Area is now at your tucker, birds, insects, frogs, reptiles and mammals, fingertips with the Wet Tropics Management • Phytophthora cinnamomi is a root rot as well as an evolutionary timeline on the history Authority’s new ‘website of walks’. fungus that can decimate large tracts of forest. The fungus is introduced by and formation of the World Heritage Area. Hikers of all experience levels can access over 150 contaminated soil on boots and tent pegs The posters were distributed through The Cairns walks through a comprehensive database on the and quickly spreads through water Post over five weeks with educational activities for Authority’s new website. Walks range from short catchments. If you have been hiking children included in the newspaper. A class set of boardwalks to overnight camping trips. overseas or in areas outside the World the poster series and education kit can be purchased The database provides the length of the walk, Heritage Area, carefully clean and disinfect from The Cairns Post. difficulty ratings and estimated time the walk takes, your footwear and camping gear. as well as a search engine for swimming holes or •Cassowaries are occasionally seen in the special features and facilities. World Heritage Area. Give these giant birds plenty of space - they may become aggressive if they feel threatened. Back away slowly, watching the bird as you go. Check out the new walks database at Never try to feed cassowaries. www.wettropics.gov.au.>things to do>walks •Wait-a-while is a climbing palm which uses spiny tendrils to climb up trees towards the sunlight. They also catch onto unwary walkers - remove them by > Contact walking backwards and carefully The Cairns Post to purchase your wildlife poster detaching them. series and education kit on (07) 4052 6302. •Never leave a trail for a shortcut. It is very easy to get lost and injured in dense tropical rainforest. A plan for Paluma •Carry insect repellent and suncreen, but A working group of community and government be careful to wash off any chemicals organisations interested in the Paluma area has before you go swimming. been formed. The Paluma Collaborative Working Group aims to establish a cooperative network to •Take care near water - beware of submerged deliver community outcomes that will benefit the rocks and logs, currents and waterfalls. Walkers can choose from over 150 walks on people of Paluma. Smooth rocks beside streams can become the Authority’s new website. extremely slippery in wet weather. The main focus of the group is to develop a plan for the Paluma area of priority projects the group • Don’t endanger your life - read the signs will seek to have implemented. Projects identified and stay behind fenced areas. Heed the Australia’s Tropical Rainforests are include those related to tourism, environment, warnings and be a responsible bush walker. the world’s oldest continually infrastructure and community needs. surviving tropical rainforests with •Tell a friend or relative where you are A survey of Paluma’s current and potential visitor some plant and animal species going and when you expect to be back. markets is one of the first outcomes that has been traced back to 400 million years ago. •Leave your pets at home and enjoy the initiated. The results will be used as a guide for local wildlife. promotion of nature-based tourism in the area. Give a tree as a gift to a loved one and help save the rainforest Don't buy flowers to mark a special occasion, give the gift of life instead. Buy a rainforest tree and help save Australia's tropical rainforests. Rainforest volunteers will plant your tree in one of our special revegetation areas in the Wet Tropics to provide a food source for the endangered cassowary and This certificate and other a sanctuary for the many rainforest information can be animals, insects and frogs. posted anywhere Your gift will also help rehabilitate our in the world World Heritage listed rainforests. in a crush The person receiving your gift will be proof tube. Australian Rainforest Foundation sent a special certificate, indicating where the tree has been planted and information on why this is such Telephone: +61 (7) 4051 2000 a special gift of life to the rainforest. Fax: +61 (7) 4031 2400 Email: [email protected] Website: www.arf.net.au visit our website www.arf.net.au or phone 074051 2000 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE Paluma Paradise

s the gateway to the southern end of the A number of walking tracks winding through the Wet Tropics, this charming village is one forests provide stunning coastal views. A 24 hour Short Walks A of the World Heritage Area’s best-kept rest area is available in Paluma while extended secrets. For those travellers looking for a retreat camping facilities are located at Lake Paluma. McClelland’s Lookout (200m) from the pressures of urban life, plus a helping of > Contact Just a short stroll along a paved path to a grassed good old fashioned local hospitality, this is the area, it’s a great place for a picnic lunch. It has destination for you. Camping sites can be booked through NQ Water ample parking for cars and buses, wheelchair on ph (07) 4770 8526 or (07) 4770 8507 or via Because of Paluma’s high elevation (880m above accessible toilets, free gas barbecues and picnic the website www.nqwater.com.au. sea level) it is affectionately called the ‘village in tables. the clouds’ and spends its crisp mornings shrouded > How to get there in mist as the many bird species herald the sunrise. Ta ke the first right turn on reaching Paluma With less than 30 residents, the village is an township. McClelland’s Lookout can be reached appealing escape from metropolitan life. Surrounded via two short tracks – one leaves from the carpark, by World Heritage rainforest, the township is also a the other track, suitable for wheelchairs, is about great escape from the summer heat. 100m past the carpark near the Most of the accommodation is located in the main telecommunications tower. street and all facilities are within walking distance. A number of bed and breakfasts and self-contained Paluma Rainforest Walk (580m) rainforest cottages are available for rent, as well as a This is a circuit walk south of the village. Limited restaurant and cafe for dining. parking is available at either end of the track. At > Contact the eastern end of the track is the Village Green, an excellent venue for a family picnic with a You need to book your accommodation before ABOVE: Birthday Creek Falls is a short walk shelter, playground and toilets. arrival. Phone Paluma Accommodation and from the carpark. Information Services on (07) 4770 8520 or > How to get there email: [email protected]. > How to get there The Paluma Rainforest Walk runs off the main About 60km north of Townsville (or 40km south of street. Ingham if you’re travelling from Cairns), the historic Mt Spec tourist road leaves the Bruce Birthday Creek Falls Track (1.7km) Highway and turns inland. This road was built This short walking track off the Lake Paluma Road mostly by hand during the 1930s Great Depression. winds down the gentle slopes through shady forests From the highway you can see the magnificent to the top of Birthday Creek Falls. The walk to the Paluma Range rising in the distance. Follow the falls takes about 15 minutes and car parking is meandering road (not recommended for caravans) available just off the dam road. The track continues for about 25 minutes until you reach the township to a swimming hole at the bottom of the falls. at the top of the range. > How to get there Follow the main road through Paluma township towards Hidden Valley. About 4km past Paluma, Stop for a bbq or picnic at one of the best turn right along the gravel road to Lake Paluma. swimming holes in the area, Little Crystal Birthday Creek Falls is on the left 6km further on. Creek on the Paluma Range. The picturesque bridge was built by hand in 1932 as part of an unemployment relief scheme project and ABOVE: The hand built masonry arch bridge was the first of its kind in Queensland. spans Little Crystal Creek.

4 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE

LEFT: Camping at Paluma Dam.

FAR LEFT: Paluma Dam is great for swimming and water sports.

Ivy Cottage

One of the most interesting and historical buildings in Paluma is Ivy Cottage. Built at the turn of the century before the First World War, Macleay’s it started out as a miner’s Honeyeater. cottage in Ewen, on the way to Charters Towers. When mining in Ewen ended, the cottage was dismantled and transported about 60km to be re- built in Paluma, where it stands today. The cottage was nick-named ‘Hotel gully below. It is one of the more strenuous Australia’ during the war when it was used tracks in the Paluma area, so allow a comfortable Longer Walks as accommodation by soldiers two hour return trip. operating the Paluma radar station, The H Track Loop (1.3km) and later became a convalescence Self Drive Tours hospital for sick and injured military At the south of Paluma village this circuit walk personnel. It is now a restaurant runs along a former logging road or ‘snig’ track. Little Crystal Creek surrounded by gardens that attract an array The H Track is a remnant of the timber industry of birds including the Macleay’s Honeyeater, carried out in the Mt Spec State Forest over 50 Is 11km below Paluma on the winding Paluma Spotted Catbird, Tooth-billed Bowerbird and years. Look for stumps and a loading ramp. Range Road. This road is not recommended for Victoria’s Riflebird. caravans. Ample car parking is available above the > How to get there road while a bus pullover area is World famous wildlife documentary presenter, Although the H Track is marked as a loop walk, it located right beside the David Attenborough has visited Ivy Cottage on starts at the back of Lennox Crescent and comes national park picnic area. two occasions to film the birds. out onto Whalley Crescent behind the former Free gas barbecues and > Contact: police station. You will have to walk along the main wheelchair accessible road a short distance to the start of the track. toilets are located in the Ian and Sandy Marshall on (07) 4770 8533. picnic area. Tap water Witt’s Lookout Track (1.5km) should be boiled before drinking and for your own This leads to two adjacent lookouts in the national safety, don’t jump off the rocks. park, Witts Number 1 and Witts Number 2. The walk takes about 45 minutes. Both lookouts have Lake Paluma magnificent views of the coastal plain. Is 15km west of Paluma. The road is lined with > How to get there tropical rainforest and is mostly gravel. The recently Park near McClelland’s Lookout when you turn upgraded visitor facilities at Lake Paluma include right at the top of the range and walk up to the marked campsites, a boat ramp (dependent on beginning of the track just past the water level), free gas barbecues, shelter sheds and telecommunications tower. wheelchair accessible toilets (no showers). Boating and camping permits are required from NQ Water Cloudy Creek Track (3km) via their website at www.nqwater.com.au. Allow an hour’s driving time for a return trip to the dam from Is an extension of the Witt’s Lookout Track (see Dam fine effort Paluma. Visitors are advised to check road above). The Witt’s Lookout Track forks to the left conditions between November and March by Robert Dark, NQ Water about 350m from the lookouts, leading you down a (see story on right). reasonably steep hill to the picturesque creek in the Camping and recreational facilities at Lake Paluma have been expanded through partnerships between NQ Water, local Traditional Owners and the Wet Tropics Management Authority. Check out Paluma walks at: www.wettropics.gov.au.>things to do>walks The new facility caters for groups of over 40 people, with a communal fireplace, seven camping sites and picnic tables. Acknowledgements: Linda Venn, Paluma Accommodation and Information Services; Robert Traditional Owner groups in the area, the Nywaigi Dark, NQ Water and special thanks to Townsville (pronounced Now-are-Ghee) and Gugu Badhun Enterprise Limited for supplying photographs. (pronounced goog-goo Bad-hun) helped to build the new facilities, which were partially funded through a Townsville-Thuringowa Community ABOVE RIGHT: L-R: Archie Sirriss (Nawagi), Development Employment Project.> Contact NQ Water Ranger James Jackson and Justin Ross (Gugu Badhun) put the finishing touches > Contact: on the communal fireplace. NQ Water for permits and road conditions on LEFT: Walking track to Witt’s Lookout. (07) 4770 8526 or (07) 4770 8507.

5 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE The rainforest guide challenge by Terry Carmichael HY aren’t there any monkeys in • Promote minimal impact practices. Australian tropical rainforests? Will • Ensure the sustainability of the natural and global warming really cause some W cultural environment. possums to become extinct? What’s the difference between rainforest and jungle? Why are cassowaries • Inspire and motivate tourists to consider their endangered? lives in relation to larger ecological and cultural issues. These are just a sample of some of the probing and intriguing questions rainforest guides get asked When we talk about interpretation we don’t mean every day by their guests. Answering the odd curly the translation of a foreign language, but rather, question with current, accurate and relevant translating the technical language of a natural information is only one part of their fascinating job. science (biology, zoology, geology, ecology etc.) into terms and ideas that people who aren’t scientists can ABOVE: Rainforest guides are at the front Guides perform a multitude of duties and tasks on a readily understand. line of the tourism industry. daily basis. They can be a mechanic one minute, a teacher the next, a cook, a host, a navigator, a nurse, Good interpretation leaves people moved and > Contact an entertainer and a park ranger. Guides will tell you challenges their assumptions, it enriches and they are expected to do all this simultaneously in a enhances the ecotourism experience and gives If you’ve always wanted to be a tourism guide, the seamless way. Generally speaking, rainforest guides are visitors a basis to remember and relive their holidays. Tropical North Queensland Institute of TAFE, not walking encyclopaedias but passionate individuals Cairns and Mossman Campuses run courses If you are visiting Australia’s Tropical Rainforests who enjoy sharing their love and enthusiasm for specifically designed to meet national EcoGuide World Heritage Area and want to make sure the nature and the environment with other people. standards. Contact Russell Boswell at the Cairns tour you have chosen has appropriately trained Campus on (07) 4042 2422 or Warren Dickey at Incredibily, there are hundreds of guides working in tourism guides and uses minimal impact and the Mossman Campus on (07) 4098 2000. Australia’s Tropical Rainforests. While the duration sustainable principles, look for these types of logos: of a guided tour can range from half an hour to a week, many rainforest guides have their guests for a full day. All guides are at the ‘front line’ of the For a list of accredited tourism operators in tourism industry, the crucial ‘make or break’ the World Heritage Area and throughout moments when customers formulate their opinion Australia, or to learn more about the about a region and its people. EcoGuide Program, visit the Ecotourism So what motivates tourism guides? The responses Australia website: are as varied as the individual guides themselves www.ecotourism.org.au but inevitably if you talk to one of them long enough, out comes the common thread, “I want to Terry Carmichael is passionate about Australia’s Tropical make a difference, I want to have an impact on Rainforests World Heritage Area and is an enthusiastic people’s lives so they will help look after our bushwalker. He teaches part of the EcoGuide course at tropical rainforests”. If you are already a rainforest guide but don’t have the Mossman Campus of TAFE and is the curator of the any formal qualifications, Ecotourism Australia has Responsible tourism guides have an ethic they live Rainforest Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary. the course for you. It’s called the EcoGuide and work by, it’s simple but it is recognised as Program and is an industry run certification industry’s best practice. Responsible tourism guides: program. For all the up-to-date information go to Australia’s Tropical Rainforests • Communicate and interpret the significance of www.ecotourism.org.au and click on the ‘EcoGuide have trees that are more than the environment and/or cultural heritage. Program’. 3,000 years old. Rainforest history on the Web by Linden Woodward Photographs documenting the conflict over the rainforest, people’s experience of the rainforest Daintree Rainforest are now accessible on the environment and its social and economic internet, thanks to a collaboration between James importance to the region.” Cook University (JCU) and the National Library of Prof. Wainwright said the photographs provided Australia. valuable documentation of important events in the Photographs from the Daintree Blockade of 1983 history and life of the region and would be added to and a selection showing life in Townsville in the as further images were digitised. early 19th Century can now be viewed at “The Daintree Blockade collection shows the www.pictureaustralia.org.au. intense political action around the protests of JCU’s Professor Eric Wainwright said the Cairns 1983,” he said. library held archives donated by several “Looking at images of people buried up to their environmental organizations, and felt a necks in front of bulldozers, and seeing the responsibility to make them accessible to expressions on the faces of the demonstrators and researchers. “The University had been happy to the police officers whose job it was to arrest them, provide seed funding for the initiative,” he said. gives us great insight into those times and the issues “In addition to our focus on rainforest science, involved.” researchers investigate changing attitudes to the PictureAustralia is a free service available at LEFT: An arrest during the Daintree blockade. www.pictureaustralia.org

6 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE Pressures on Tropical Forests Silent Killer he root-rot fungus, Phytophthora or also transport the Phytophthora is rainforest dieback, is regarded as one of the pathogen to new areas. world’s most destructive pathogens of latin for ‘plant T The Wet Tropics woody plants. It is known to occur in 65 countries Management Authority including Australia. destroyer.’ commissioned a study to This is not a new disease and was first discovered in find out more about the the native Jarrah forests of Western Australia in 1921, threat of phytophthera. Researchers have produced a but it wasn’t identified as phytophthora until 1960. report warning that significant sections of the World Heritage Area are already infected with rainforest Similar outbreaks were reported in Victoria, Tasmania dieback, with another 14% potentially susceptible to and South Australia between 1962 and 1977. These outbreaks. Further expansion could result in the loss states have now implemented comprehensive of certain intolerant plant species affected by the management programs to combat the threat. fungus. Dieback was first recorded in the Wet Tropics World The Authority is working with the Queensland Parks Heritage Area in 1975, with the last outbreak and Wildlife Service to reduce the spread of the reported in 1981. There had not been another case fungus in the World Heritage Area through hygiene reported until 1999. and education programs. So help to keep this silent Although we call it a fungus, phytophthora is actually killer at bay by carefully washing cars to remove a microorganism with a complex life cycle. It moves mud and cleaning and disinfecting your footwear through soil or water in search of plants to feed on. and camping gear before hiking in the World Heritage Area. It destroys the plant’s fine root system, stopping water intake and killing the plant. The micro- ABOVE: Phytophthora is a growing concern > Contact organism then uses its tail to ‘swim’ through the soil for land managers. in search of more living tree roots. An outbreak of Phytophthora cinnamomi is identified by groups of trees withering, losing Photographs by Stuart Worboys. The triggers that cause the pathogen to become branches and an orange-brown stain under the active and kill patches of rainforest are still unkown bark. If you think you see an infected area, to scientists. It is spread naturally in flowing water contact the Authority on (07) 4052 0555. but can also be transported through soil and plant material by vehicles, equipment, footwear and road construction. Rainforest animals and feral pigs may Run Beetle Run t’s been nearly 70 years since cane toads (Bufo By Sue Hasenpusch, Australian Insect Farm and desperation set in. On marinus) were first released as tadpoles into the eve of finishing their Researchers are now gathering information on the natural ponds in the Little Mulgrave and Cairns field trip, conversation was I effect the introduction of the cane toad has had on areas. Cane toads occur naturally in Central and revolving around the our native species in Australia. While some South America and were introduced to Tropical amount of toads they had predatory birds and smaller rodents have adapted to North Queensland from Hawaii in 1935, in a failed observed in the area. After eating the toad by learning to avoid its poison attempt to control native sugar cane beetles. opening a toad to see what glands, others are not so fortunate. Native predators they were eating, the entomologists were shocked. A suitable habitat and an extensive food supply such as goannas and quolls can die if they eat a toad. Five specimens of the very same flightless species of made north Queensland a most appropriate home. ground beetle they were seeking were found in the From here the toads set off, moving north, south A Fondness For Insects stomach contents from a single toad. and west. Travelling at a rate of around 30km a Toads have such a fondness for insects that in some year they soon conquered many habitats from open Toads are an unsuccessful biological control agent, areas they have been recorded feeding on only one forests and woodlands, grasslands, swamps and and are responsible for displacing and predating type of insect due to its abundant supply. If an insect even beach dunes. upon our native wildlife. While many feel the loss of is available in quantity, toads will simply remain in a few bugs is nothing to raise concern, we must that area, feeding and growing at a maximum rate. CANE TOAD FACTS remember that insects are vital to the health of • Distinguishable from native frog and toad A Jump Ahead every ecosystem. Without insects, the very food species by large and heavy build chain that all life forms depend upon could collapse. • Grow up to 20cm long When it comes to finding insects, toads are always a jump ahead. A group of entomologists specialising > Contact • Glands on the side of the head carry a creamy- in ground beetle research were attempting to record white toxin The Australian Insect Farm (07) 4063 3860 the activities of a specific species. Days of looking www.insectfarm.com.au • Males have more warts than females under logs proved futile - no specimens were found

7 Southern Wet Tropics Central Coast N Townsville Tully Gorge (Lower) 1 There is a small Wet Tropics display at the visitor 1 The 42km scenic drive through lower Tully Gorge centre at Stuart on the city’s southern approach. It is begins at the town and offers camping, lookouts, staffed by volunteers daily from 9am to 5pm. walkways to the river and whitewater rafting. (07) 4778 3555 QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601

Paluma Mission Beach Visitor Centre 2 This mountaintop village is a great weekend retreat. 2 The Wet Tropics Visitor Centre at Mission Beach is There is camping at Big Crystal Creek at the base of run by local volunteers from environment and tourism the range or Lake Paluma (bookings essential groups. (07) 4068 7197 or (07) 4068 7099 www.nqwater.com.au) 12km past the village.Walking tracks range in distance from 600m to 2km. QPWS (07) 4777 2822 or NQ Water (07) 4726 0000 • Licuala Forest 350m children’s walk, 1.3km rainforest circuit & 7.8km rainforest walk from the Tully-Mission Beach Road to Frosty Mango Lacey Creek. QPWS Innisfail (07) 4061 5900 3 This popular tourist rest stop between Ingham and To wnsville has Wet Tropics displays on local birds. (07) 4770 8184 • Lacey Creek Look out for cassowaries on this 1.2km rainforest walking track off the Mission Beach - El Arish Road. Jourama Falls QPWS Innisfail (07) 4061 5900 4 Cascading falls over salmon-coloured granite make this a favoured camping and picnic area among locals. A 1.5 km track leads to falls. Clump Point QPWS Jourama (07) 4777 3112 • A 2.5km circuit track winds through rainforest at Bingil Bay to a spectacular lookout on Bicton Hill. QPWS Innisfail (07) 4061 5900 Hinchinbrook Visitor Centre, Ingham 5 Volunteers staff the centre on the corner of the Bruce Highway and Ingham’s main street from Mon-Fri Palmerston Highway 8.45am to 5pm, weekends 9am to 2pm and most 3 Named after bushman Christie Palmerston, this public holidays. (07) 4776 5211 scenic rainforest highway between Innisfail and the Atherton Tableland gives access to short walks, waterfalls, picnic spots and camping. Wallaman Falls QPWS Palmerston (07) 4064 5115 6 Wallaman Falls is the largest single drop waterfall in Australia, tumbling 305m to a large pool.The falls are 51km west of Ingham, 18km of which is unsealed road. No Josephine Falls open fires. For directions, road conditions and bookings 4 Queensland’s highest mountains, Bellenden Ker and contact QPWS Ingham (07) 4777 2822 Bartle Frere, loom above this popular picnic area. Short track to falls.A rough trail leads to the summit of Mt Bartle Frere (1622m) for fit, experienced Broadwater walkers only. 7 Day use and camping area, 45km west of Ingham, an QPWS Josephine Falls (07) 4067 6304 hour’s drive from the highway. QPWS Ingham (07) 4777 2822 Babinda Boulders 5 The Boulders, 7km from Babinda, has a reputation Five Mile Creek for claiming the lives of unwary visitors. Locals put this 8 This is a great place to take a break from behind down to an Aboriginal legend, but it could be a the wheel, just 200m from the Bruce Highway on the combination of fast water, slippery boulders and southern outskirts of Cardwell. careless behaviour. 19km Goldfields walk leads to QPWS Cardwell (07) 4766 8779 Goldsborough Valley. (07) 4067 1138

Rainforest and Reef Centre, Cardwell Goldsborough Valley 9 Visit the centre in the main street near the jetty to 6 This is a popular place for families and school make bookings for Hinchinbrook and other coastal groups to have a barbecue and enjoy a swim in the islands, and for Wet Tropics information. hot summer months. Camping sites are also available. There are 17 visitor centres scattered QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601 Goldsborough is an hour’s drive south-west of Cairns. throughout north Queensland, offering a The road is unsuitable for caravans. wide variety of displays and information. A QPWS (07) 4056 2597 new symbol has been introduced for 10 Hinchinbrook Island centres who focus on visitor information. Hinchinbrook borders two World Heritage areas - These centres must meet professional the Wet Tropics and Great Barrier Reef. Ferries leave Lake Morris the mainland at Cardwell and Lucinda.Thorsborne Trail 7 Beautiful artificial lake surrounded by rainforest in standards of facilities, staff, information and is a four-day hike, numbers are limited so bookings are the hills 20km from Cairns. Kiosk and picnic area open displays before they can display the required. QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601 daily from 8am, gates close at 6pm. Great views, no symbol. As you travel around the region, swimming. (07) 4055 7414 look for the in the towns below and ask the friendly volunteers about their Edmund Kennedy National Park 11 favourite things to do in the area! Mangrove walk through diverse coastal park. 8 Crystal Cascades Explorer Edmund Kennedy travelled through here Enjoy a picnic at this municipal park and swim in the Atherton (07) 4091 4222 during his 1848 expedition to Cape York. clear waters of Freshwater Creek, 24km from Cairns. QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601 Secure your valuables. (07) 4044 3044 Babinda (07) 4067 1008 Innisfail (07) 4061 7422 Malanda (07) 4096 6957 12 Blencoe Falls Drive 9 Skyrail Cableway Mareeba (07) 4092 5674 The 207km drive from Kennedy to Mt Garnet Treetop view of the rainforest from a cableway over Mission Beach (07) 4068 7099 features coastal views, Blencoe Falls and north Barron Gorge to Kuranda, with stops at lookouts and Queensland cattle country.The road is unsealed and information centre. Make it a round trip with the Ravenshoe (07) 4097 7700 caravans are not recommended. Make sure you and historic Kuranda train.Admission charge. Cairns (07) 4051 3588 your vehicle are prepared. (07) 4038 1555 Tully (07) 4068 2288 QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601 Ingham (07) 4776 5211 Lake Placid To wnsville city (07) 4778 3555 Murray Falls 10 Lake Placid is a municipal park on the Barron River To wnsville south (07) 4721 3660 13 Excellent camping facilities in the foothills of the beside the Barron Gorge National Park, 12km from Kirrama Range between Cardwell and Tully.The 20m Cairns. Day use facilities, restaurant and kiosk. falls is one of the prettiest in north Queensland. (07) 4044 3044 QPWS Cardwell (07) 4066 8601

NOTE: this symbol indicates that disabled toilets (QPWS: Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service) are available. It does not indicate that tracks are accessible to wheelchairs.

We hope you enjoy visiting the World Heritage Area. 8 We recommend this guide be used together with a regular road map. One of the reasons the Wet Tropics was listed as Tablelands Region Northern Region Barron Falls Captain Cook Highway a World Heritage Area is its spectacular scenery. 1 The Barron River drops dramatically from the 1 Scenic drive from Cairns to Mossman. Great views Tablelands to the coast at the Barron Falls on the out- and beaches. Historic Bump Track hike from Mowbray Here are some spots you shouldn’t miss... skirts of Kuranda.Ask local rangers about the network Valley. Commercial campgrounds at Ellis Beach, Port of historic trails. QPWS Cairns (07) 4053 4533 Douglas and Mossman.

2 Davies Creek Rainforest Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary Swimming pools and stunning waterfalls surrounded 2 A leader in wildlife exhibits, this award-winning by eucalypt forests.The 6km unsealed road can be wildlife sanctuary provides a chance to observe up rough. Bring charcoal for the fireplaces. Camping fees close a large range of flora and fauna. Guided tours apply. Past the national park is restricted access. QPWS Cairns (07) 4053 4533 and displays.Admission charge. (07) 4099 3235

Danbulla Forest Drive 3 Mossman Gorge 3 A 30km drive around Lake Tinaroo between the dam wall A short track leads to Mossman River or take your and Gillies Highway. Day use areas: Platypus, Kauri Creek, time and explore the rainforest along a 2.4km walking The Chimneys and School Point. Camping: Platypus, Kauri track.A grassy area for picnics for day use only. and Downfall creeks, School Point and Fong-on Bay.Walks: QPWS Mossman (07) 4098 2188 Lake Euramoo, Mobo Crater, Kauri and Downfall creeks and Cathedral Fig Tree. QPWS Atherton (07) 4091 1844 Daintree Ferry Crossing & Village 4 Located 36km north of Mossman, the 21-car ferry Lake Barrine operates from 6am to midnight seven days a week. 4 Visit the giant Kauri trees at the beginning of the The Daintree village 10km upriver has art and craft 5.1km circuit walk near this crater lake, or take a shops, coffee shops, timber museum and river cruises. boat cruise across the water.Wet Tropics displays at the kiosk. QPWS (07) 4095 3768

Daintree Discovery Centre 5 Previously Daintree Rainforest Environmental 5 Hasties Swamp Centre.This privately owned visitor centre 11km Nyleta Bird Hide at Hastie’s Swamp near Atherton has north of the Daintree ferry on Tulip Oak Road a bird list of over 220 species. Bird numbers peak features a canopy boardwalk and tower, theatres, between July and Sept. QPWS Lake Eacham (07) 4095 interactive computers and experienced guides. 3768 or Birds Australia North Qld (07) 4096 8230 Admission charge. (07) 4098 9171

6 Curtain Fig Tree Jindalba This is one of the best-known tourist attractions on 6 700m boardwalk winds around a fern-edged creek.There the Atherton Tableland, 3 km from Yungaburra.The fig tree has a curtain of aerial roots which drop 15 metres are some stairs on the walk. Look out for cassowaries and to the ground. QPWS Atherton (07) 4091 1844 tree kangaroos. Picnic tables and toilets near the car park. QPWS (07) 4098 2188

Lake Eacham 7 Similar to Lake Barrine, this is a lake in an extinct 7 Thornton Beach & Noah Beach volcanic crater.Wet Tropics volunteers often lead Thornton Beach day use area and kiosk is 25km north guided walks on weekends. 700m self-guided walk from of the Daintree ferry.Another 5km north is Marrdja the picnic area or 3km circuit walk. Follow the signs to boardwalk through rainforest and mangroves. 1.5 km north the ranger station which is a short walk from the picnic of Marrdja is the Noah Beach national park campground, area for more information. QPWS (07) 4095 3768 closed during extremely wet weather. Beware of marine stingers Oct-May. QPWS Cape Trib (07) 4098 0052

Malanda Environmental Centre 8 This volunteer-run centre at Malanda Falls takes ‘Bat House’ Environment Centre visitors on a journey of discovery. Learn how the 8 Operated by the Australian Tropical Research Tablelands was formed and how animals, plants and Foundation, this volunteer-run visitor facility at Cape people have survived and adapted. Several short walks. Tribulation has information on rainforest, reef and (07) 4096 6957 alternative technology. Open 10.30am to 3.30pm. Admission charge. (07) 4098 0063

9 Mt Hypipamee (The Crater) Look out over this geological curiosity caused by a Cape Tribulation build-up of underground gases. Easy walking track leads 9 Visit the Dubuji visitor area featuring 1.2km boardwalk to picturesque Dinner Falls at the headwaters of the through rare rainforest growing on sand.Access to Barron River. QPWS Lake Eacham (07) 4095 3768 beach here or via nearby mangrove boardwalk. Additional carpark and viewing platform at Kulki, 2km north. QPWS Cape Trib (07) 4098 0052 Waterfall Circuit 10 Don’t miss this short drive which takes in Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Elinjaa waterfalls.The circuit begins on the outskirts of Millaa Millaa township and loops 10 Black Mountain around to finish 2km away. (07) 4096 6957 Giant piles of black granite boulders 30km from Cooktown have been the subject of Aboriginal legends and European stories for many years. QPWS Cooktown (07) 4069 5777 Ravenshoe Visitor Centre 11 Volunteers run the centre from 9am to 4pm daily. Other local attractions include a steam train on weekends & public holidays & markets every fourth Keating’s Lagoon Sunday of the month. (07) 4097 7700 11 A boardwalk and walking track built by local Gungarde Aboriginal rangers follows the edge of this important bird sanctuary 5km from Cooktown.A bird hide provides a perfect spot for watching magpie geese, black ducks Millstream Falls and brolgas. QPWS Cooktown (07) 4069 5777 12 Spilling over a basalt lava flow, these falls are the widest in Australia. Open eucalypt forest is dominated by stringybarks, bloodwoods and ironbarks. Bottlebrushes border the creek. QPWS Gulf Savannah Mount Cook National Park (07) 4097 6721, Lake Eacham (07) 4095 3768 12 A 2km walking track passes through diverse vegetation communities to the top of Mount Cook.The walk takes about 90 minutes to the top. For group walks with an Tully Gorge (Upper) Aboriginal guide, phone Gungarde Community Centre on 13 A lookout 25km from Ravenshoe provides awe-inspiring (07) 4069 5412. QPWS Cooktown (07) 4069 5777 views of the deep gorge below.Walking track leads to more views. QPWS Lake Eacham (07) 4095 3768 Nature’s Powerhouse, Cooktown 13 Nestled in bushland in Cooktown’s historic Botanic Koombooloomba Dam Gardens this centre features wildlife displays and 14 This artificial lake supplies Kareeya Power Station. botanical art collection. $2 admission. Open from 9am- Popular among campers and canoeists. QPWS 5pm with cafe open from 10am-4pm 7 days a week. Atherton (07) 4091 1844 Admission charge. (07) 4069 6004

9 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE Love thy neighbour by Alicia Hill OOPERATIVE land management between Singapore. With the help of volunteers from the neighbours on the Atherton Tableland is Trees for Atherton and Evelyn Tablelands Chelping to revegetate an area of (TREAT), 8000 trees have been replanted on his endangered forest. property. Eventually, they hope to grow an additional 10ha of vine forest. World Heritage Area tour operators Sandra and Harry Walker own Fur ‘n’ Feathers Rainforest Tree Other neighbouring property owners are also Houses in Tarzali (a few minutes’ drive south of working together to revegetate the area. Karen Malanda). Fur ‘n’ Feathers provides tree house Coombes and Neil McLaughlan, with funding from accommodation nestled in 40ha of endangered the Natural Heritage Trust and the assistance of vine forest. Conservation Volunteers Australia, are creating vegetation corridors on neighbouring farm land as A variety of plants and animals live in these well as their own. David and Penny Shaw are remnant patches of endangered forest, including ABOVE: Harry Walker visits one of the revegetating along the Ithaca River, extending the the rare Lumholtz's Tree-kangaroo and endemic revegetated areas on Pavan's property, boundaries of Fur ‘n’ Feathers rainforest habitat. possums such as the Green Ringtail and Herbert planted just over a year ago. River Ringtail, and the rare Lesser Sooty Owl. The Harry and Sandra and Neil and Karen’s properties area has also been identified as critical cassowary are registered under the ‘Land for Wildlife’ habitat and has been visited regularly by a male program, a voluntary scheme that encourages cassowary named ‘Tui’ (Tongan for King) and his landholders to provide habitat for native wildlife. Fur ‘n’ Feathers Rainforest Tree Houses chicks, since 1991. A section of Harry and Sandra’s land has also been Hogan Road, Tarzali 4885 declared a ‘Cassowary Corner Nature Refuge.’ This To increase their remnant patch of endangered is a legal agreement between the Walkers and the Ph: (07) 4096 5364 forest, the Walkers have developed a partnership Queensland Government to ensure the protection with neighbour Pavan Sukhdev who lives in Email: [email protected] of wildlife and their habitat.

There are many poisonous plants in the rainforest. Rainforest Aboriginal A feast of culture Elders are very concerned that by Doon McColl visitors may sample some bush Through planning a sustainable future with the tucker and poison themselves. It is help of the Innisfail Campus of Tropical North extremely foolish to try bush tucker Queensland TAFE and James Cook University’s unless you are absolutely certain about what you’re eating.

Professor Roger Leakey, the group has the BEWARE! opportunity to make their dream a reality. Prof. Leakey has previous experience in developing native people receive minimal benefits. To ensure agro-forestry industries in tropical areas of Africa the same thing doesn’t occur again, intellectual and South America. Using specific horticultural property rights on the developed cultivars will be techniques, he and TAFE teacher Marianne registered by the Ma:Mu people. Helling are helping Ma:Mu students to domesticate For the Ma:Mu trainees, the project is a dream rainforest plants and create commercially viable come true. Harry McCarthy is a mature age trainee crops. who has done his fair share of back-breaking Prof. Leakey believes the cornucopia of plants labouring jobs for local councils and farmers. which make up Australia’s World Heritage listed “This is the best job I’ve had for a long time,” he MAGINE a future where the cane fields of rainforests have been overlooked as potential says. “Bush foods taste really good and they’re good Tr opical North Queensland are interspersed with agricultural resources. for you too. You can taste the difference, it’s green rainforests weighed down with colourful I “There is an amazing diversity of native fruits stronger. I like thinking that other people will learn fruits. which are used by Rainforest Aboriginal people,” about our food and be healthier too.” Creeks flow crystal clear between shady banks lined Prof. Leakey says. “Unlike apples and oranges Other trainees like Cleavlon Johnson (pictured with trees bearing plump, red river cherries. Ethanol- which have been domesticated over thousands of above left holding quondongs) are enjoying powered cane trams are busy year-round hauling years, they are still in a wild state. learning about the science of botany and not just cane, but loads of fresh rainforest fruit to “They need to be fine-tuned to become commercially horticulture, and Kurtis Johnson likes sharing the crushing mills. viable, then we must work with local farmers and knowledge with his own kids. Local consortiums are packing fruit, bottling health governments to get commercial quantities in the “I love being able to go home every day and tell my drinks and making gourmet condiments for the lucrative ground and develop markets to use them. “This is kids about their traditional culture – and they love international market. In Hong Kong supermarkets, blue not something that’s going to happen overnight, it too”. quondongs as big as hen’s eggs are out-selling other but I think the concept has enormous potential for tropical fruits because of their health-giving properties. major economic and environmental outcomes for north Queensland, and importantly has a key role At the heart of this vision are the Ma:Mu Aboriginal for Indigenous communities. people whose traditional lands are around Innisfail, Palmerston and Millaa Millaa areas. They are “There is an urgent need to diversify regional dreaming of a brighter, greener future for their farming systems and the rural economy. We need to Wander through the Ma:Mu Bushtucker children, their environment and the local farming create new commercial opportunities for the region.” Garden at the Warrina Lakes in Campbell community. International companies and institutions are well Street, Innisfail to view a wide selection of known for exploiting traditional knowledge about bush tucker plants. medicinal plants for financial gains, while the

10 AUSTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE Malanda Magic Volunteers on a by Esther Hackett POTTING the elusive Dendrolagus mission lumholtzi is just one of the many exciting Sadventures for visitors to the rainforest OLUNTEERS have painted a brighter surrounding Malanda Falls. Peering into the future for the Mission Beach Wet Tropics trees you may spot a long, dark, furry tail VVisitor Information Centre. hanging through the branches – it’s very The centre’s interior underwent a colourful revamp exciting when you do because you have just with paint donated by local businesses. found the shy Lumholtz Tree-kangaroo! The painting took volunteers five days to finish Malanda Falls is centrally located on the and complements the Wet Tropics Management Atherton Tableland, just over an hour’s drive Authority’s new display. from Cairns. Here you will find an educational Wet Tropics Visitor Centre that is also an The Mission Beach Information Centre has ‘Yellow accredited ‘Yellow I’ information provider. I’ accreditation and is staffed totally by volunteers. It sees 26,000 visitors through its doors each year. The friendly volunteer staff at the Centre will tell you where and when the most recent Tree- Centre manager Mrs Truus Biddlecombe said it kangaroo sightings have been and show you was fantastic to see dedicated volunteers from all some interesting reference material relating to walks of life coming together and promoting the many other wonderful forest creatures. ‘Boyd’ town and the entire Wet Tropics region. the Forest Dragon might even make an

Photographer: Mike Trenerry “Tourism is very important for our region and we impromptu appearance nearby, in his role as couldn't run such a busy centre without these ‘security officer’ of the Centre. ABOVE: The shy Lumholtz Tree-kangaroo. volunteers,” she said. While you’re there, take a walk on the wild side meandering on into a section of the rainforest. It with Ngadjon-jii Ranger Ernie Raymont. Ernie will doesn’t get much better! guide you through the rainforest and explain how the Ngadjon-jii men made a ‘dilly bag’ from lawyer Esther Hackett is a volunteer at the Malanda vine and how some toxic rainforest fruits are made Environment Centre. edible. Ernie will communicate to you the intertwining of Aboriginal culture and landscape and interpret hidden rainforest clues like ‘messages’ left by fallen fruits and leaves. A brush turkey may dash across the path or you may hear a wallaby Malanda Falls Environment Centre, rustle nearby on the forest floor. You may even be Atherton Road, Malanda Qld 4885 lucky enough to see a shy platypus in the river. Ph: (07) 4096 6957 After you’ve been to the Centre and walked with Open 7 days a week 9am – 5pm. ABOVE: Volunteers Terri Ernie, you can enjoy a refreshing swim at the Guided walks by Ngadjon-jii Ranger Scarborough and Janine May picturesque Malanda Falls. The North Johnstone Thurs – Sun at 10.00am and 1.00pm. hard at work! River flows over the falls and into a pool, before

Mission Beach Visitor Information Centre Porter’s Promenade, Mission Beach 4852 Cassowary Catch-up Ph: (07) 4068 7099 Open daily from 10am to 5pm. Admission is by Shayne Allanson free, although a gold coin donation is HE CASSOWARY Rehabilitation Centre ‘Hoppy’ came to the centre around Christmas in appreciated. near Mission Beach has been a busy place 2002 with a broken femur at just two weeks old. Tsince it opened in 2001. The community is He was found on the Tully-Mission Beach Road, an pulling together to help save the endangered area notorious for vehicle collisions with birds. The cassowary with more than 50 local volunteers chick’s leg was successfully pinned and is now forming a response group to help local rangers perfectly healed. He will be released in the next rescue sick, injured and orphaned cassowaries. couple of months. ‘Elmo’ the orphaned cassowary was the first Rehabilitating cassowaries at the centre has also resident of the enclosure and was released at the enabled rangers to closely observe the behaviour of Mt Coom section of Hull River National Park late orphaned and sick cassowaries. This information last year. Dedicated Cassowary Response Group has been invaluable, as it provides the technical volunteers from cane and banana farms adjacent to framework for the future development of a best Mt Coom have helped track Elmo on regular practice wild cassowary rehabilitation manual. occasions and are sending progress reports. It Shayne Allanson is a Queensland Parks and Wildlife would appear that he has established a territory in Ranger. the Mt Coom area and is doing well. Two orphaned cassowaries are currently at the The Wet Tropics Management Authority centre, and will be released later this year. ‘Lucky’ and Coastcare have provided the Mission was two days old when he arrived at the centre. He Beach centre with a fully equipped was found on the Bruce Highway near Bilyana in ‘response trailer’.The trailer enables QPWS 2002. An extended search by Queensland Parks staff and volunteers to promptly respond to and Wildlife (QPWS) staff and volunteers to emergency cassowary issues and incidents. ABOVE: ‘Lucky’ when he first arrived at the reunite him with his father was unsuccessful. centre.

11 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE

Fully Quoll-a-fiedby Deanna Belbin

HESE ferocious little battlers are close mammals on the menu for these malevolent Notorious for raiding poultry farms and scavenging cousins of the infamous Tasmanian Devil marsupials. Favourite meals include the fierce around houses in agricultural areas, quolls are Tand are not to be trifled with! White-tailed Rat, Bandicoots, Ringtail Possums and susceptible to greater risk of being killed by people Musky Rat-kangaroos, as well as birds, chicks and or encountering poison baits as they seek out an There are two species of quolls in the World reptiles. Quolls aren’t fussy and will devour just easy meal. Heritage Area – the Spotted-tailed (or Tiger) Quoll about any animal they can subdue or they find and the Northern Quoll. The endangered Spotted- Without the cover of dense vegetation, the little already dead. tailed Quoll loves the cool wet rainforests from the carnivores are easy targets for dogs, foxes and birds Daintree to Tully whilst the Northern Quoll Although largely nocturnal, the Spotted-tailed of prey. Their tendency to feed on road kill also favours the drier country west of the rainforest and Quoll may forage and sunbake during the day close makes them candidates for road strike. Cane toads rocky coastlines. to its nest, which is usually found in rock caves or are another threat, as like most animals, quolls are hollow logs and trees. not immune to their poison. Spotted-tailed Quolls Spotted-tailed Quolls have become endangered Spotted-tailed Quolls have very interesting calling because they naturally occur in low numbers in cards. Spiral-shaped scats are deposited in The Spotted-tailed Quoll is the larger of the two localised areas and because of their foraging habits. communal latrines and hormones in the droppings species and is aptly named because of the spots The Spotted-tailed Quoll has a clawless toe on its presumably tell other quolls the sex, age and which extend from its body and along its tail. Other hind foot and ridges on its pads, making it an agile reproductive condition of the ‘scat-ee’. An quoll species are omnivores but the Spotted-tailed climber. Its long tail is used for balance as it climbs, interesting way to find your ‘poo-love!’ Quoll is a one-of-a-kind pure carnivore. but it prefers to spend most of its time on the forest floor. As the largest marsupial predator on mainland Northern Quolls Australia, the Spotted-tailed Quoll is about the size The rainforest normally provides a haven from of a domestic cat. Known for their ferocious most outside threats. However, when quolls The Northern Quoll can be found from coast to behaviour, quolls should not be taken lightly. stumble upon human habitation the trouble starts. coast across northern Australia. This quoll species Small wallabies and possums are just some of the is much smaller than its spotted-tailed cousin but don’t be fooled. The Northern Quoll is just as aggressive. Their diet is varied and may include animals such as rodents, reptiles, insects and a variety of figs and other soft fruits. Northern Quolls are also fond of carrion and are often seen feeding on road-kill wallabies. They are known to raid poultry yards but are more often encountered in the kitchen where they scavenge dry dog food from pet bowls and meat and fruit scraps from unwashed dishes and compost heaps. Rumour has it a Northern Quoll was even found hiding inside a cupboard at a Cairns fast food restaurant! Northern Quolls are adept climbers however they are most often seen climbing boulders or in houses rather than tree canopies. They are found in a range of drier habitats in the World Heritage Area LEFT: The Northern Quoll is smaller than the Spotted-tailed variety, but just as formidable!

12 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE QUOLL

LEFT: A Spotted-tailed Quoll feeding. FACTS

RIGHT: The smaller Northern Quoll. including rocky coastlines, drier rainforests and eucalypt forests and near fresh water. They often Spotted-tailed Quoll live in or around houses in rural areas and are fond of building their nests and raising young inside Species: Dasyurus maculatus walls and ceilings. Natural den sites include hollow Check out quolls at Status: endangered logs, hollow standing trees, crevices in rock piles and holes inside termite mounds. www.infocus.to/quolls Weight: males average about 1.5kg www.wettropics.gov.au females about 1.1kg Quoll-proof netting Length: 615-960mm

Quolls have a bad reputation as poultry killers, Eats: mammals, birds, reptiles, insects Acknowledgements: Dr Scott Burnett Queensland making them unpopular with rural residents. The Parks and Wildlife Service, The Tree Kangaroo and Breeding season: June – September Authority helped World Heritage neighbours to Mammal Group. protect their poultry from the endangered Spotted- Copulation time: 8 hours tailed Quoll by providing free wire netting. The Photographs: Bruce Thomson and Dr Scott Burnett. Gestation: 21 days netting was made available through the Tree Kangaroo and Mammal Group as part of the Good Average litter size: 5 pups Neighbours Program with funding assistance from • Maturity is reached in 1 year NHT. • Males can travel a distance of 6km > Contact in a night For more information contact Dr Scott Burnett • Live for 2-3 years at the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service Atherton Office on (07) 4091 7768 or the • Easily recognised as the only quoll Tree Kangaroo and Mammal Group on species with a heavily spotted tail. (07) 4091 4262. Northern Quoll RIGHT: Spotted-tailed Quolls are listed as Species: Dasyurus hallucatas endangered. Status: near threatened BELOW: Recently, a Northern Quoll was even found hiding inside a cupboard at a Cairns Weight: up to 900g males fast food restaurant! and 500g females Length: 300-600mm Eats: fruit, reptiles, birds, mammals Breeding season: late June Average litter size: 6-8 pups • Live for 1 - 2 years • Is the only one of Australia’s four quoll species that is not endangered.

• Quolls (Genus dasyurus) have been around around for at least 2 million years • Each individual quoll has its own unique pattern of spots • Quolls are not quite standard marsupials in that they don't have a real pouch. During breeding season, the skin around the female's nipple area extends into a flap that serves as a pouch, partially covering the young.

13 A USTRALIA’S TROPICAL RAINFORESTS WORLD HERITAGE Come and see Cardwell! by Deanna Belbin he sleepy coastal town of Cardwell found Society Flats half way between Townsville and Cairns is Edmund Kennedy (Kirrama) Boardwalk (800m) a natural paradise surrounded by World T National Park This boardwalk takes you back in time to a small Heritage rainforests, walking tracks, swimming patch of remnant giant Kauri Pines and Rose Gums holes and waterfalls. Named after the explorer who travelled through here up to 600 years old. The area was never logged One of the oldest towns in north Queensland, it in 1848, Edmund Kennedy National Park follows the because of its scenic significance. Kirrama Range was established as a port in 1864 and became the coastline north of Cardwell to Meunga Creek. is fantastic for its views over the Kennedy and first white settlement north of Bowen. Walking tracks meander through coastal rainforest Murray Valleys. and open woodland forests opening on to the beach. With ocean views to majestic Hinchinbrook Island, > How to get there The park is noted for its diverse vegetation. Cardwell is the window to an exciting array of Tu rn off the Bruce Highway at Kennedy, 10km World Heritage recreational activities. Edmund Kennedy north of Cardwell. Follow Kennedy Creek Road Boardwalk Circuit (4.5km) and turn right on to Kirrama Range Road. A journey of 30km (1.5 hours) will take you to the Walks around Cardwell The Edmund Kennedy Boardwalk Circuit begins by top of Kirrama Range. There are several lookouts the beach on Rockingham Bay and winds its way along the way and Society Flats Boardwalk is through a variety of coastal habitats including signposted. The road then levels out at above 850m Murray Falls mangrove swamps, paperbark swamps and open elevation and continues on to Blencoe Falls. eucalypt woodlands. The first section of the Murray Falls has plenty of space for camping Boardwalk Circuit is also part of the walk along the amongst the eucalypts and is an ideal place to relax beach to Wreck Creek. and go bushwalking. Blencoe Falls > How to get there Murray Falls Boardwalk (1km) Blencoe Falls is an impressive three-tiered waterfall Turn off the Bruce Highway towards the coast which pours 300m into the Herbert River Gorge The boardwalk leaves from the open forest of the about 4km north of Cardwell. It is 2km to the below. The falls are 95km or about 3 hours’ drive campground and is a leisurely walk along a Edmund Kennedy National Park and a bit further from Cardwell. There are no fuel stops after the rainforest lined creek bank. Two viewing platforms to the beginning of the walks. Kennedy Store and you will need at least a day for overlook the granite rock face and boulders. your journey. Two-wheel drive vehicles need good Dalrymple Gap Track (10km) ground clearance and dry weather. The Dalrymple Gap Track is one of north > How to get there Queensland's oldest designated roads. Originally an Turn inland off the Bruce Highway at Kennedy, Aboriginal walking track, it became a popular path 10km north of Cardwell. Follow the bitumen for for bullock wagons, pack horses and large herds of cattle travelling between the port of Cardwell and 7km and then turn right onto the gravel road inland pastoral properties. signposted at Kirrama. There are several waterfalls and lookouts along the 40km drive through the Nowadays, the rough track is only used by walkers. rainforest as well as the Kirrama Society Flats walk. It is a 5 to 6 hour, or 10km walk (one way) When you leave the rainforest you will travel traversing the Cardwell Range. The track is open 10km through open woodlands to the Kirrama all year, except if there is an extreme high fire danger. You will need to be picked up by vehicle at Station/Mt Garnett turnoff. Turn left here, cross a the end of the walk in Abergowrie Forest. grid and follow the signs to Blencoe Falls. About a Alternatively, you could walk part of the track and kilometre past the bridge over Blencoe Falls, turn ABOVE: Murray Falls Boardwalk. then double back to your car. A beautifully crafted left and drive about 4km down a rough 4WD track towards a fork in the road near the top of the falls. Murray Falls Rainforest Walk (2km) stone bridge ‘aquaduct’ features about 3km (1 hour) up from the carpark. The track is easy to There is also another track to the falls on the The rainforest walk leaves from the back of the follow but can be rough in places with ruts, loose eastern side of Blencoe Creek. campground away from the creek. The forest floor rocks and shallow creek crossings. It has recently is large buttress roots mixed with granite boulders been reopened after some restoration work on the so this walk involves some low impact climbing. bridge and sections of the track. Once past a huge rock slab, you reach the open > How to get there Check out Cardwell walks at: woodlands and wind your way around the hill to www.wettropics.gov.au.>things to do>walks the top of the falls. There are some magnificent There is a signpost to the Dalrymple Gap walk views down the waterfall to the campground and about 15km south of Cardwell. Drive along the across to the ranges beyond. This walk has bumpy dirt track for 1km until the road ends at a BELOW: Blencoe Falls. information signs about the local Aboriginal history clearing by the creek. The walk begins by crossing of the Girramay people and the plants and animals Damper Creek. A permit is no longer required to of the area. walk the gap track but no camping is allowed. Walkers can camp at the Broadwater camping > How to get there grounds 45km (1 hour) west of Ingham in the Murray Falls is well signposted from the Bruce Abergowrie Forest. Highway. Turn off at Murrigal, about 14km south of > Contact Tully, or at Bilyana, about 22km north of Cardwell. These roads meet and either way, it’s about 20km Queensland Parks and Wildlife Ingham Office from the highway to Murray Falls campground. The on (07) 4777 2822. last few kilometres are on a dirt road.

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THREATENED OR ENDANGERED RIGHT: Braudley Thomson checks out the Girroo Gurrll mural. Giving the BELOW: The Cardwell Bush Telegraph Heritage Centre. glider a go HE small community of Bambaroo, 80km north of Townsville, is only too happy to Rainforest and Reef Tget their hands dirty for the endangered Mahogany Glider. Centre Students of Bambaroo State School, teachers, parents, Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service The Rainforest and Reef Centre is a visitor rangers and members of Landcare were involved in information centre located in the main street of a tree planting day in aid of the flying marsupial. Cardwell, near the jetty. The group has started to restore a wildlife corridor Here you will see stunning displays by regional that will link 66ha of glider habitat from behind the artists including a life-size dugong and a school to Waterfall Creek to eventually join the World reconstructed pioneer's cottage. Take a walk Heritage Area at the foothills of the Paluma Range. through the rainforest to reef display and follow Cardwell Bush Telegraph Girroo Gurrll, the ancestral spirit of the Girramay Food trees were planted for the glider and included people, who is part man and part eel. blue gum, pink bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, silver paperbark and acacias. Heritage Centre The Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service operates from the Rainforest and Reef Centre. Acknowledgement: Keith Smith, Queensland Parks and Cardwell’s link in the Queensland Heritage Trails Permits to camp on Goold Island, at Macushla, Wildlife Service, Atherton. Network is the Historic Post Office & Telegraph The Haven and along the 32km Thorsborne Trail Station. Built in 1870, it is one of the oldest buildings on Hinchinbrook Island, are issued here. In in north Queensland. It closed in 1983 after serving addition, the video ‘Without a Trace’ promoting the public for 113 years but has now reopened as low impact camping, is shown at the Centre. the Cardwell Bush Telegraph Heritage Centre. Visitors can walk through the reserve and view Cardwell's former post office/telegraph station, shire hall (now the library), courthouse and ‘lock-up’. Rainforest and Reef Centre, The original postal room with its old telephone 142 Victoria Street, Cardwell, Qld 4849 exchange and 1870s counter can still be seen and you can use the morse code equipment. Cardwell’s Ph: (07) 4066 8601 local history and the development of postal and Open daily from 8am, to 4.30pm 7 days a telegraph systems in the far north are displayed in week. Admission is free, although a gold coin the building. ABOVE: The endangered Mahogany Glider. donation is appreciated.

Driving distance from Cardwell: Mahogany glider Cardwell Bush Telegraph Heritage Centre Species: Petaurus gracilis 53 Victoria Street, Cardwell Qld 4849 Edmund Kennedy National Park 6km north Status: endangered Ph/Fax: (07) 4066 2412 Kennedy township 10km north Body length: 250 mm Murray Falls 42km north Open Tuesday,Wednesday and Thursday Tail length: 350 mm from 10am to 1pm and on Saturday from Society Flats Walk 9am to 12 noon. Entry is free but donations via Kennedy 10km north, 30km west Weight: 350 g are encouraged. Blencoe Falls 10km north, 62km west • Thought to be extinct until rediscovered at Barrett’s Lagoon The Queensland Heritage Trails Network Dalrymple Gap 16km south website: www.heritagetrails.qld.gov.au. 14km south-east of Tully in 1989. • Found only in Tropical North Queensland and is classified as an endangered species. Picture perfect • Only 2000 are thought to be left. Photographer Steven Nowakowski has spent the • Prefers coastal lowland woodland past ten years capturing the wild beauty of and lives in a 130km strip from Hull Hinchinbrook Island. Now his passion for this River near Tully, to Crystal Creek magnificent tropical island can be shared by 40km south of Ingham. everyone who loves wild places. His 112-page book ‘Hinchinbrook – a sacred wildness’ includes 80 • Nocturnal creatures that glide over large format colour images, detailed descriptions distances of up to 50m. and poetry. It is available in soft cover for $42 or Hinchinbrook Island is located off Cardwell and • Cats are one of the glider’s main limited edition hard cover for $52 (including lies adjacent to the World Heritage Area. threats, along with habitat postage within Australia). For more sales and information phone (07) 4055 1163 or email destruction and fragmentation. [email protected].

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orld Heritage tour The new World Heritage operators are easy to logo is already featured Wrecognise thanks to an on road signs, exciting initiative by the Wet publications and Tropics Management Authority. displays throughout the region. World Heritage Tour Operator vehicle stickers have been The branding project distributed free to tourism was funded by Tourism companies with permits to operate Queensland and the in the World Heritage Area. Commonwealth Government’s Regional The stickers are part of a campaign Assistance Program. by the Authority and the tourism industry to consistently market So, if you’re planning a Australia’s Tropical Rainforests World Heritage adventure, World Heritage. keep an eye out for the frog logo! About 120 tourism companies hold permits to operate in the World Heritage Area, which stretches from Townsville to Cooktown. In another initiative, Wet Tropics The Authority has also produced World visitor centre staff are sporting new Heritage information brochures full of World Heritage Information badges. interesting World Heritage facts, special Staff wearing these badges have attractions and natural highlights. If you’d been to World Heritage Area like a brochure call in to one of the Wet training conducted by the Authority Tropics Visitor Information Centres listed on and are only too happy to answer any the map on pages 8 and 9 of this magazine. of your World Heritage questions.

HELP FOR INJURED WILDLIFE Don’t rubbish the A PHONE CALL AWAY There are dedicated wildlife carers throughout northern rainforest Queensland. Before you phone the numbers below, get a precise location of the animal. If you are in a remote area and Dumping litter anywhere, especially in our have some wildlife handling experience, you may decide to pick World Heritage Area is definitely not on. Not up the animal and take it to the nearest wildlife carer. only does it affect the fragile ecosystem but it could have a negative effect on tourism, an Approach injured and distressed animals with caution. important part of our region’s economy. Normally shy wallabies have a nasty kick and bite if they are in pain. Often the best thing to do is approach animals from People have noticed an alarming increase in the amount of roadside litter, even along some behind and throw a towel over them. If the animal is cold and of our most scenic drives such as the Gillies wet, the towel will soak up some moisture and trap their body Range and Captain Cook Highway. Please heat. Many wildlife carers keep an emergency towel, pillowcase keep our World Heritage Area beautiful and and cardboard box in their cars for this purpose. Keep the dispose of litter in the appropriate bins. animal in a darkened, quiet environment (not the boot of the car) and keep children and family pets away from the animal. Photographer: Mike Trenerry PHONE CONTACTS FOR WILDLIFE CARERS The Keep Australia Beautiful Council has an ‘Adopt-a-Road’ program. Any • TOWNSVILLE • DAINTREE COAST interested group can adopt a section of Mobile: 0414 717374 (07) 4098 9079 road (subject to Main Roads or local Mobile: 0428 736 029 • CAIRNS authority sign-off) and participate in (07) 4053 4467 • JULATTEN the program. For a registration form After hours mobile: (07) 4094 1177 and further information check out the Green Ringtail Possum 0407 962 075 Keep Australia Beautiful website at: • COOKTOWN www.keepaustraliabeautiful.org.au or • TABLELANDS (07) 40696 229 contact them on (07) 3252 2886. (07) 4092 2359