Stock up on pulses at Mount Zero Olives. Clockwise from right: Vines Cafe & Bar’s orange and ricotta pancakes; Seppelt winemaker Emma Wood; Mount Zero Cafe; the guide. Café Catalpa’s braised rabbit with rocket, pesto and pea risotto; the ; winemaker Dan Buckle at Mount Langi Ghiran; Gourmet Pantry, Dunkeld. central

Home to the Grampians and magnificent rolling vistas, central Victoria has long been enjoyed for a getting there & so the first decision is which direction to virgin olive oil, including a biodynamic relaxing break. Now, with the rise of boutique wine and food outlets, there are more reasons to visit. getting started drive in first. You can start with the south version made using only manzanilla While you can easily drive to the or east, or do as we did and head up the olives, they sell under their brand a WORDS MATT PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHY mark roper Grampians, if time’s limited (and the bank western flank of the ranges for lunch. dizzying array of olives, from blonde balance good) it makes sense to avoid the kalamata to little wild Australian olives, The Grampians rise like rugged uncut unique to Gariwerd, as the Grampians all keep holidayers happily occupied. But traffic, fly in to Hamilton Airport and pick go west plus a selection of pulses (all of which can diamonds from the rich farmlands of were known before white settlement. it’s also the food and wine drawing visitors up a hire car. Hamilton might be one of Almost anyone who visits a farmers’ be ordered online). On weekends, the Victoria’s western district. A three-hour Besides the wildflowers and wildlife, to the plains below Mounts Abrupt, Rosea Australia’s dinkiest airports, but it also has market in Victoria is familiar with farm gate is joined by an impeccable little drive west of , this 168,000- outdoor activities make this rugged range and Difficult. The great old winery names a proud history as the birthplace of Jane and Neil Seymour’s pioneering cafe serving simple country food utilising hectare national park with rich Aboriginal one of Victoria’s most popular holiday of Seppelt, Taltarni and Best’s have been Sir Reginald Ansett’s eponymous airline Mount Zero Olives property in Laharum the farm’s produce, such as pumpkin, heritage is home to the full spotter’s guide destinations, with over a million visitors joined by new cult wineries and some of in 1935. In fact, Hamilton still has its (41 Mount Zero Rd, (03) 9315 1410, cheese and caramelised onion frittata, or of Aussie animals and indigenous plants. a year. Rock climbing, fishing, cycling, the state’s best artisan producers, and a own carrier, Sharp Airlines. mountzeroolives.com), which is one of the tomato and pesto bruschetta. There are 800 plant species found here, bushwalking (there are 160 kilometres growing culinary culture led by The Age The main food and wine attractions in oldest olive groves in Australia. It is home It’s also here in the western shadow of including 20, such as the Grampians Gum of tracks) and soaking up the spectacular Good Food 2009 Guide Country Restaurant of the Grampians region are clustered to some 6000 manzanilla and gordal trees. the Mount Difficult range (in which you’ll and Grampians Parrot-pea, that are views from the peaks and promontories the Year, the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. around the bottom and sides of the range, As well as producing premium extra find rock art at Ngamadjidj Shelter), where

56 delicious. the guide.

Deirdre and Richard Baum are growing Grampians. Our enquiries about the truth were planted only a year later. This family caper bushes alongside olive trees at their brought the response that one of their winery has belonged to the Thomsons property, Laharum Grove. You’ll find customers had seen the Grampians’ black since the 1920s, but it’s under fourth- these buds sold around the region under panther – but then he’d also seen “Tassie generation vigneron Viv Thomson that the Laharum Grove brand at places like tigers and aliens as well”! Slightly their reputation was set. His son Ben now Hamilton’s Darriwill Farm Gourmet deflating, although who knows what you helps make the wines but the cellar door Food, Gifts & Wine Merchants (see might see if you start your bushwalk early still feels like it’s in a 100-year-old tack Tarrington & Hamilton). or drive back up the hill after dinner. shed. Come here to try their shiraz – Next stop is the somewhat idiosyncratic especially the supple Bin No. 0, which little cellar door at Norton Estate Winery eastward ho… tastes distinctly of blackberries – and a (758 Plush Hannan Rd, Lower Norton, If you’re looking for something a little more rare example of a that is Horsham, (03) 5384 8235, nortonestate. intricate for lunch or breakfast, it’s perhaps made here as a silky red wine, rather than com.au). It’s run by a couple of characters best to head down to Ararat. Described being put to its usual use as blending – Don and Chris Spence – who make with typical laconic bush humour as being component for sparkling white. some seriously good shiraz. Their spicy at the “Paris end” of this bustling bush It’s a bit of a drive up and across to but lush cool-climate 2004 Arapiles Run town – filled with Edwardian grandeur, a Moonambel, but it’s a pretty one, and the Shiraz was named by James Halliday in historic gaol and a couple of rather fine Art twin destinations of Dalwhinnie and 2007 as one of the 20 best reds over $20. Deco buildings – is Vines Cafe & Bar (74 Taltarni make it an enticing one, too. The Barkly St, Ararat, (03) 5352 1744). Open cellar door at Dalwhinnie Vineyard in the grampians fires, a sunroom, an interesting regional (448 Taltarni Rd, (03) 5467 2388, The choice now is to loop back over the wine list and a cold cabinet of cakes like dalwhinnie.com.au) is in a rather groovy Grampians to your accommodation at pavlova and chocolate roulade are the modern tin shed with a wide verandah or drive round the northern tip signature of this impressive little cafe perched above the vineyards. From here, to seek out some more good wine. We do where Sandra O’Malley is in the kitchen. you can see the corners of the vineyard the former, passing echidnas and a flock Suitably fortified, it is now time to hit from which come the grapes for the wine of emus grazing on the side of the road, the wineries of the rolling country to the you’re tasting. Flamboyant winemaker although we get so hopelessly lost that by east of the Grampians. It’s perhaps best to and owner of Dalwhinnie, David Jones, the time we make it to Halls Gap it’s so start by paying your respects at two of the makes a fine chardonnay and pinot noir, late that kangaroos are absent-mindedly pioneers of the region. The first vines at along with a very astringent cabernet loping across the foggy main street. Seppelt Great Western (Moyston Rd, sauvignon that needs time in the cellar but DULC Cabins (9 Thryptomene Ct, Halls Great Western, (03) 5361 2239, seppelt.com) has an intense plummy flavour that you’ll Gap, (03) 5356 4711, dulc.com.au) is a were planted back in 1865, and the still taste as you head down the drive. rather cool collection of modern log sprawling site is famous for the kilometres Across the road, Taltarni Vineyards cabins, with flat-screen TVs, espresso of tunnels, “the drives”, dug by miners (339 Taltarni Rd, Moonambel, (03) 5459 machines and stainless-steel kitchens, under the winery (and its extensive picnic 7918, taltarni.com.au) makes a perfect buried in the bush. The three two- grounds) for the purpose of wine storage. lunch stop, as their Red Earth Cafe serves bedroom cabins and one single-bedroom A tour of the tunnels is well worth the a decent vineyard antipasto platter made cabin start at $250 per night, and there’s time. It’s not just history on show here; up of local produce. Chief winemaker Norton Estate winery. Clockwise from left: no extra charge for waking up to find a senior winemaker Emma Wood is turning Loic Le Calvez has managed to dial down Taltarni vineyards cellar door; a modern roo staring in at you. out some very smart modern wines using the tannin of their big reds to make them take on bush cabi ns at DULC, Halls Gap; The Halls Gap area is not known local fruit from this side of the Grampians far more drinkable young, and has Ben Thomson of Best’s Wines; vegie patch at for a preponderance of gastronomic and from the region to the south, maintained the vineyard’s reputation for Griffins Hill Iyengar Yoga Retreat; Darriwill experiences, so if you don’t want to eat which supplies the grapes for the making some of the very finest Australian Farm’s crumbed calamari with Greek salad. campground-style cafe food or chip shop Drumborg riesling. Also try the Jaluka sparkling wines (see this month’s Drinks takeaway, arrange to pick up your own chardonnay and their sparkling wines – column, p 187). supplies or head down the hill. especially the show-stopping sparkling Lovers of sparkling might also drop in For a basic breakfast, make a stop at shiraz. The cellar door also offers a to pay homage at Blue Estate the Black Panther Cafe (shop 6, Stony $25 cheese platter. (Vinoca Rd, Avoca, (03) 5465 3202, Creek Stores, Grampian Rd, Halls Gap, If Seppelt offers all the grandeur of bluepyrenees.com.au). While at Sally and (03) 5356 4511). Interestingly (well, the a bygone age, then Best’s Wines (111 Neill Robb’s nearby Redbank Winery name gives it away), it has a whole wall Best’s Rd, Great Western, (03) 5356 2250, (1 Sally’s Ln, Redbank, (03) 5467 7255, of press clippings devoted to sightings of bestswines.com) up the road is the sallyspaddock.com.au) with its Flying the big game cats rumoured to live in the antithesis, even though their first vines Pig Deli is an alternative stop. Here you

58 delicious. Bend and stretch at peaceful Griffins Hill Iyengar Yoga Retreat in Dunkeld. From far left: the Victoria Hotel’s cafe; local boutique the guide. wines at Darriwill Farm Gourmet Food, Gifts & Wine Merchants.

can opt for a ploughman’s lunch of their – uttering the immortal words “this is a beef from the local hills, Elisabeth own smoked lamb with cheese, pickled cheese that just happened”. Along with Cuming’s sheep’s cheese, and flowers or onions and nectarine relish – perhaps the dairy’s cheeses, she also makes herbs fresh-picked from the restaurant’s washed down with their rather fine Sally’s fantastic yoghurt, all made from sheep’s own extensive kitchen garden feature on Paddock, which is a blend of shiraz, milk off the farm. his fiercely regional menu. , merlot and cabernet The true oenophile – if you don’t know As well as the modern restaurant, franc from the Robb’s original block what it means don’t worry, you’re courtyard cafe and historic front bar, the planted in 1973. probably not one – will also want to stop Royal Mail Hotel also offers a number Somewhat full, and with the sort of by at another premium producer of shiraz, of different accommodation options, perfect mid-afternoon lull that’s hard to Cathcart Ridge Estate (Moyston Rd, from converted one-bedroom and two- shake off, we now point the car back Cathcart, (03) 5352 1997, cathcartwines. bedroom shearer’s huts (from $200 per towards the dusky outline of the southern com.au) outside Ararat. Their estate shiraz double) and double motel rooms (from Grampians and the modern cellar door of has been named wine of the year by $130 per double) to the old homestead, Mount Langi Ghiran (Vine Rd, Bayindeen, Winestate magazine. which sleeps up to 12 and can be hired by (03) 5354 3207, langi.com.au). Here, young While there are a handful of good groups (from $1300 a night). winemaker Dan Buckle builds on Mount restaurants to the south at Port Fairy and If you want a slightly calmer location, Langi’s reputation as a shiraz specialist Warrnambool, the area around the then try the Griffins Hill Iyengar Yoga with a well-respected pinot gris and Grampians has been poorly served for Retreat (Victoria Valley Rd, Dunkeld, riesling, plus the addition of a range of great dining until recently. That all (03) 5577 2499, griffinshill.com.au) with three single vineyard shiraz – the changed with the arrival of Dan Hunter nearly 2.5 hectares of native gardens and Robertson is our favourite. The cellar door as chef at Dunkeld’s Royal Mail Hotel spectacular views of the Grampians. is also the only place that their pinot noir (Parker St, Dunkeld, (03) 5577 2241, A night for two in a double room costs and sangiovese are available. royalmail.com.au). Hunter had been head $280 and comes with breakfast and a yoga chef at Spain’s Mugaritz, recently named class taught by Frank Jesse, the founder of glenthompson fourth best restaurant in the world, so Melbourne’s Clifton Hill Yoga Studio. & dunkeld tempting him down here was a huge coup If you aren’t breakfasting at your Elisabeth Cuming, who owns the (and investment) for Allan Myers, who chosen accommodation, then there’s the Grampians Pure Sheep Dairy (Stirling owns the hotel and had previously set up temptation of the Gourmet Pantry (109 Glenthompson, Glenelg Hwy, (03) 5577 one of the country’s best, and best priced, Parker St, Dunkeld, (03) 5577 2288) run 4223) operates this little cheesery as an wine cellars, here. The rewards were by Tania Lowe and Marji Door. You can offshoot to the family farm business and instantaneous with the Royal Mail Hotel browse a selection of local wines, preserves also has a penchant for experimenting. named best regional restaurant in Victoria, and olive oils, including ones from Mount She’s been known to pull out a hard and in Australia, this spring. At night, Zero Olives (see Go West), while you wait cheese to taste at the knockabout milking Hunter’s menu is delicate finessed fine for your bacon and eggs on toast. They shed that doubles as farm shop and then dining, while during the day it’s a little also do light lunches such as quiches, be at a loss to explain how it came about more down to earth. But in both cases, homemade pies and open steak sangers. Vines at Henty Estate. Clockwise from below: Crawford River Wines 2001 Young Vines Riesling; Roxburgh House in Hamilton the guide. has a cosy antique feel.

tarrington you pass through Tarrington around into Hamilton. This town never had much & hamilton lunchtime and stop at Café Catalpa (7921 of a gourmet reputation, but it is changing. Now it’s time to head down to the little Hamilton Hwy, Tarrington, (03) 5572 1888), Firstly, it’s now the home of Darriwill Farm hamlet of Tarrington, which changed its which has both pinots, along with other Gourmet Food, Gifts & Wine Merchants named from Hochkirch during World War Tarrington locals like Mount Napier and (99 Brown St & 169 Gray St, Hamilton, (03) I in the name of patriotism. Here, you’ll Bochara on their wine list. The sprawling 5571 2088) flagship store. A good selection find two of Victoria’s cult pinot producers, dining room here is filled with trophy of wines with some hard-to-find local suitably called Tarrington Vineyards (7787 heads of stags, and alongside corned drops, interesting kitchenwares and a tight Hamilton Hwy, (03) 5572 4509) and silverside and a steak and kidney pie, the selection of local produce makes for good Hochkirch Wines (Hamilton Hwy, (03) menu also makes the best of game, whether browsing, while the menu of cafe favourites 5573 5200). The latter is a biodynamic it’s braised rabbit with crispy prosciutto or – including crumbed calamari with Greek vineyard about five kilometres east of a venison curry in generous serves. Their salad or oven-baked gnocchi with poached Tarrington run by John Nagorcka. Both are game dinners make a great highlight of figs – makes it a good choice for lunch or tiny operations, so call ahead to see if any visit to the region. dinner. The caramelised lemon tart has its there’s someone there to open the cellar If you’re looking for something a little own fan club, but we reckon the baked pear door for you. Alternatively, time it so that less earthy, then it’s perhaps best to head and almond tart might be even better!

63 delicious. the guide.

map key

Mount Zero Olive...... 1 Norton Estate Winery...... 2 DULC Cabins...... 3 Black Panther Cafe...... 4 Vines Cafe & Bar...... 5 Seppelt Great Western...... 6 Best’s Wines...... 7 Dalwhinnie Vineyard...... 8 Taltarni Vineyards...... 9 Blue Pyrenees Estate...... 10 Redbank Winery & Flying Pig Deli...... 11 Mount Langi Ghiran...... 13 Grampians Pure Sheep Dairy...... 14 Cathcart Ridge Estate...... 15 Royal Mail Hotel...... 16 Griffins Hill Iyengar Yoga Retreat ...... 17 Gourmet Pantry...... 18 Tarrington Vineyards...... 19 Hochkirch Wines...... 20 Café Catalpa...... 21 Darriwill Farm Gourmet Food, Gifts

& Wine Merchants...... 22 nielsen a The Roxburgh House...... 23 Henty Estate...... 24 priscill Crawford River Wines...... 25 : on Mount Eccles National Park...... 26 i Victoria Hotel...... 27 strat illu

Another interesting addition is The success with his chardonnay, riesling, Mount Eccles National Park gives a Roxburgh House (64 Thompson St, peppery shiraz and interesting shiraz fascinating insight into the volcanic activity Hamilton, (03) 5572 4857). Bruach and cabernet sauvignon, which together have in this region 20,000 years ago. Besides a Belinda Colliton’s wine bar cum cafe has a earned the winery a five-star rating. two-hour walk around the rim of a crater cosy antique feel. There are fresh baguettes lake, there are also old lava canals, lava and open-faced toasties during the day deeper south blisters and scoria cones to see. Exhilarated alongside such temptations as Lindt hot If you’re driving up from the Great by vulcanology, perhaps then retire to the chocolates in flavours such as choc orange Ocean Road, then the solution is equally Victoria Hotel (26 High St, Macarthur, (03) or choc caramel. Friday and Saturday simple. Visit: Crawford River Wines 5576 1120). This 1870 bluestone pub is nights from 6pm they fire up the wood- (741 Upper Hotspur Rd, Condah, (03) perfect for cool ale in the front bar, a counter fired oven for pizzas – perhaps topped 5578 2267, crawfordriverwines.com). This meal of oysters and scotch fillet with pepper with simple combinations like artichokes, contemporary cellar door sits at the heart sauce in the pub dining room, or a slightly olives and bocconcini. This wouldn’t be a of the Henty wine region. The vineyard more interesting meal in the cafe out back bad way of kicking off a long weekend was planted by John and Catherine in the bluest weatherboard extension around the Grampians if you arrived in Thomson back in 1975, but now daughter known to man, run by chef and owner the late afternoon. Belinda is helping make the wines using Campbell Cameron with Adam Baird. If you have some time to burn before only estate-grown and hand-picked fruit. Of course, the beauty of this region, and this dough-fest, there are three options. Their reputation for producing one of this guide, is that you can opt in or out of Easiest is to call ahead for a stop at Henty Victoria’s best rieslings, a fine cabernet any of these suggestions. Jump in a car and Estate (657 Hensley Park Rd, Hamilton, sauvignon and a lemony but far rarer tailor your own trip. d. (03) 5572 4446, henty-estate.com.au) sauvignon blanc semillon is on the rise. Thanks to Tourism Victoria for assistance between the airport and Hamilton. Here, There are other reasons besides Crawford with this story. For more information, winemaker Peter Dixon is having great River Wines to head south of the Grampians. tel: 132 842 or visit: visitvictoria.com.au.

64 delicious.