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Editorial Editorial 3 Marianna Vinther Holidays and Havurah ‘A Tree of Life’ 4 Rabbi Nicholas de Lange Yom Kippur at Etz Hayyim 5 Josanne Coren Community Events 5 Maike Heinrich Internaonal Holocaust Remembrance Day 6 M. Heinrich & A. Zuckmantel Memorial for Greek Jews at Bat Yam Cemetery 7 Roger Yayon Upcoming Events Memorial Service for Nikos Stavroulakis 26 May 2019 8 Etz Hayyim Staff Shavuot & Visit by Oxford Jewish Congregaon 8 Etz Hayyim Staff Antony Lerman: “Against the Odds…” 8 Louise Gordon Concert with Ulrich von Wrochem 9 Etz Hayyim Staff Memorial Service for Cretan Jewish Community 10 Etz Hayyim Staff 20th Anniversary of Reopening of Etz Hayyim 10 M. Vinther & A. Zuckmantel Recent Events Yad Vashem Award Ceremony in Hania 11 Katerina Anagnostaki Address by Israeli Ambassador Irit Ben-Abba 14 Irit Ben-Abba Ongoing Projects Exhibion “Tales from an Old Fort Town” 14 Maike Heinrich Map for Self-Guided Tour of Hania Jewish Quarter 16 Anja Zuckmantel Interfaith Calendar 2019/20 17 Etz Hayyim Staff Heritage Contact Zone 18 Anja Zuckmantel Educaonal Outreach Report on Etz Hayyim’s Educaonal Programmes 20 Katerina Anagnostaki The Jews of Iraklion: School Research Project 22 Katerina Anagnostaki Tribute to Iossif Ventura and his Poem Tanais 22 M. Varoucha & A. Bouli Treasure Hunng in Hania 23 Stavros Sfakiotakis Internaonal Poetry Day at 1st Hania High School 23 Katerina Anagnostaki Cretan Jewish History Elijah Del Medigo 24 Michael Engel Jewish and Hebrew Inscripons from Greece 25 Anastasia Loudarou Culture of Remembrance in Greece: A Queson of 27 Maike Heinrich Identy? Poetry and Prose Human Rights Day Athens 29 Cliff Cook The Blind 30 Ioanna Galanaki Reflecons on Nikos from a Former Student 31 Micah Kiel (זצ״ל) Nikos Stavroulakis Gedenkdienst Gedenkdienst: My Semi-annual Review 32 Maike Heinrich Gedenkdienst: One Year Later 33 Christoph Steinberger From the EH Office Lile Projects, Correspondence and New Ideas 34 Etz Hayyim Staff Fundraising Help us maintain Etz Hayyim 35 Etz Hayyim Staff 3 Jottings

Editorial

In October this year, Etz In a world where racist aacks Hayyim will celebrate the tweneth happen suddenly and without anniversary of its rededicaon. The warning, it is important that there synagogue will host a series of exists a place like Etz Hayyim. A place events taking the visitor through a of diversity, a place that teaches the period of past history into a mul- history as a form of inclusive cultural awareness in the present. collecve memory, a place we can Twenty years ago, when Nikos meet in and also commemorate the Stavroulakis had just rebuilt the lives tragically lost in the shoong abandoned and half-demolished that took place in our name-sake synagogue over three years, Etz synagogue, the "Tree of Life" in Hayyim reopened its doors to Pisburgh, Pennsylvania in October Jewish faith, history and culture - last year together with those lives he could not have foreseen how tragically lost in the racist aacks in important this place would be one Christchurch, New Zealand more day. With its educaonal outreach recently. A welcoming, kind and programmes, historical research compassionate place where people projects, daily tours and weekly can meet without fear, remembering services, we have the pleasure to the common human values at the welcome more than 25,000 visitors basis of Judaism only represents the annually. Thanks to Nikos very best in all of us. Stavroulakis' stubborn insistence, Our Pesah newsleer is again full of Jewish history and culture are again dedicated contribuons which you a part of the society of Hania. From the outset, all by hopefully will enjoy. It is with pleasure that we present himself, later surrounded by like-minded people, he this variety of intelligent and enthusiascally wrien created a place of meeng, a place for the exchange of arcles, stories and leers which we have received from knowledge and a place of worship. All of us working at Etz many contributors to whom we are sincerely grateful. We Hayyim today carry this seed of hope. Each day we do our whole-heartedly thank them and our generous donors, best to improve and add yet another facet to Etz Hayyim. without whom Etz Hayyim's very existence would not be When the queson of Etz Hayyim's proper identy arises, possible. And thinking of friends and daily visitors, we in view of the lack of a fully-fledged Jewish community, I thank you for your moral and inspiring support. have to admit that to me this no longer seems to be a Without all of you, our work at Etz Hayyim would never problem. The scope of acvies taking place at Etz have been such a success - we feel we are together, a Hayyim, as well as the shared lectures, memories and community. Thank you. input from friends both in Greece and abroad, clearly shows that our synagogue has fully established itself for Wishing you a blessed and happy Pesah. quite some me now. Marianna Vinther and the staff of Etz Hayyim

Our sincere thanks to everyone who contributed to this Jottings edion of Jongs. Newsleer of Etz Hayyim Synagogue, Hania, Crete

We would also love to hear from you . Contact the synagogue if you would like to contribute an Co -editors of Jongs arcle, share informaon, ideas, feedback or cricism. Katarina Anagnostaki, Alex Ario, The next Jongs will be published for Rosh Hashnah Maike Heinrich, Marianna Vinther, Anja Zuckmantel 5780 . Please send contribuons by 1 September 2019 . Cover illustraon: George Sfougaras; cover layout: Nikos Afentakis 4 Jottings

Holidays and Havurah ‘A Tree of Life ’ Passover is the fesval of unleavened bread ἄζυμα). We call the unleavened bread ‘bread , חג המצות) ἄρτον κακώσεως). Why?, Philo , לחמא עניא ) ’She is a tree of life to those who hold fast to of afflicon her, and those who cling to her are happy. asks, when we know that the fesvals are joyful mes, (Proverbs 3:18) not occasions for afflicon. ‘Afflicon’ refers to the hard The fesval of Passover is full of symbolism. For Philo of work of improving our lives by pursuing virtue instead of Alexandria (whose works constute the fullest surviving the bodily passions. This work is painful and bier for expression of ancient Greek Judaism) the exodus of the those who are sll aached to ‘Egypt’, but to those who Israelites from Egypt symbolises abandoning the irraon- have begun to move on it is joyful and sweet. That is why ality of the physical passions (πάθη) and crossing over to the Bible says ‘he tested him there’ ( Preliminary Studies, a life of reason and virtue. There is an important lesson 161–167). here that survives the centuries. This is Philo’s interpretaon of the water of Marah, but We read in the biblical account, immediately aer the another group of ancient Jewish allegorists, known as crossing of the Red Sea: Dorshei Reshumot , offer a different interpretaon. We

Moses led the Israelites from the Red Sea and know that ‘water’ in the Bible oen refers to the divine they went out into the Desert of Shur, and teachings embodied in the Torah. (For example when they walked in the desert for three days with- Prophet Isaiah says ‘O you who are thirsty, come to the out finding any water. And when they reached water’ (55:1) he is referring to the word of God.) Thus, Marah they could not drink the water, because when the text says that ‘they walked in the desert for it was bier (which is why he called it Marah, three days without finding any water’, the meaning is ‘bier’). And the people complained to Moses that they began to forget and abandon the teachings of and said, What shall we drink? He cried out to the Torah. That is why today the Torah is read in syna- the Lord, and the Lord showed him a certain gogues on Shabbat, on Monday and on Thursday: in this tree, and when he threw it into the water it way the people of Israel never go for three days without became sweet. There he made rules and laws for him, and he tested him there. (Exodus hearing the word of God. 15:22–25) And what of the tree that sweetened the water? ‘Tree’ is also a symbol of the word of God, as in the saying ‘She is Philo comments on this: a tree of life to those who hold fast to her’ (Proverbs σοφία), which the , חכמה ) They filled their water vessels and then re- 3:18). ‘She’ here is wisdom… sumed their journey, feeling as though they Rabbis associate with the teachings of the Torah. We had risen from a banquet and merry-making, need wisdom if we are to understand and benefit from and intoxicated, not with wine, but with sober the words of Torah. That is the tree that God showed celebraon pledged by the piety of their lead- Moses at Marah. er. (Philo, Moses , I.187) In our prayers, we say of the words of Torah ‘for they are כי חיינו ואורך ימינו) ’Although we celebrate Passover by feasng, with food our life and the length of our days When we gather for the Passover seder, let us take ( הם and wine and singing, the feast is also, like the ancient symposium , an opportunity to consider and discuss the this teaching specially to heart. The exodus from Egypt serious lessons of life. leads directly to the giving of the Torah at Sinai. The Philo draws from the story of the bier water of Marah sweetening of the bier water of Marah gives a foretaste the following lesson: the bierness symbolizes the diffi- of this wonderful event (which we shall celebrate at Sha- culty of making the transion from a life ruled by the vuot). The word of God is a Tree of Life, in Hebrew Etz bodily passions to a life of virtue ruled by reason. The Hayyim . It is a living tree which is also life-giving tree: it tree that sweetens the bier water is a love of hard work gives meaning to our life, for as long as we live. (φιλοπονία): by means of the tree we are enabled to I wish the whole community of Etz Hayyim a very joyful consider hard work not bier but very sweet (ἥδιστον Pesach, enriched by the love of Torah! ἀντὶ πικροῦ ὑπολαβεῖν) ( Posterity of Cain , 158). Nicholas de Lange 5 Jottings

Yom Kippur at Etz Hayyim and the Travels of an Etrog from Etz Hayyim to Israel

An aura pervades the Etz Hayyim synagogue in Chania. (a quorum of ten Jews) is necessary. In Chania, the con- That sounds ominous, but it is not meant to be. Albeit, gregaon is mulnaonal. Jewish men and women, the souls of the Jews that populated the two adjoining whatever their religious affiliaon, who feel the need to Jewish streets permeate the atmosphere, one feels their touch base and recognize their roots, wend their way to beneficent happiness which once again the synagogue this ny sanctuary. Amazingly by the end of the day they exists and is being used to celebrate Jewish holy days. are all singing in unison and harmony with Gershon's Last September, we spent our third Yom Kippur there. ancient melodies delivered in his sweet and melodious Together with Professor Rabbi Nicholas de Lange, Ger- voice. (I admit that I am not objecve.) The lengthy ser- shon led the community in prayer from Kol Nidre on the vice is punctuated by enlightened thoughts and explana- eve of Yom Kippur to the final blowing of the shofar at ons and words of wisdom delighully delivered by the end of Ne’ilah the following evening. Nicholas. This combinaon is an absolute winner. We live in Israel and yet why do we leave our home and The day aer the services brought Gershon an unex- our beloved Bet Yoel synagogue to spend the holiest day pected reward. An Etrog tree, a true sign of the rebirth of the year in Crete, where the permanent Jewish popu- of the Etz Hayyim synagogue now flowers and bears fruit laon can be counted on the fingers of one hand? Most in the courtyard. Despite the sign "DO NOT TOUCH" , of our lives we have lived in trepidaon of the intensity Gershon was allowed to pick one of the three etrogim on of the tenth day of the Hebrew month of Tishri. A day of the tree and bring it back to Israel to use on Sukkot. the soul - searching and reckoning as well as the physical (Please don't squeal to the Ministry of Agriculture in Isra- stress created by fasng for 25 hours. Yet in Etz Hayyim, el!) the hours slip by almost unnoced and we experience a I hope we're there again next year. memorable heartwarming and upliing of our spirits. In order to fulfill the requirements for prayer, a minyan Josanne Coren

Community Events

For the High Holidays of 5779/2018 we were again fortu- The Sukkah was set up and decorated by the Havurah. nate enough to be joined by our Vising Rabbi Nicholas Aer a community service on Erev Sukkot, many visitors de Lange and for Yom Kippur in parcular Gershon Coren sat and ate in the Sukkah throughout the week of the fes- joined us again. The services and the Erev Rosh Hashanah val. community dinner, which once more included a symbolic The Havurah also got together to celebrate the lighng of Seder Rosh Hashnah, as well as the fast breaking at the the first and last Hanukkah candle, as well as for cele- end of Yom Kippur saw a very good turnout of local Havu- brang Tu B’Shevat with tradional food like the Ashure rah members and friends from abroad and visitors. from Nikos’ Cookbook of the Jews of Greece . 6 Jottings

At Purim, the Havurah members and guests read the Me- gillat Ester in Hebrew, English, Greek, French and Italian. For the reading and the community dinner, we were joined both by poet Iossif Ventura (see report on Yad Vashem ceremony, p. 11 ff.) and arst George Sfougaras (see report on his exhibion and joint project, p. 14 ff.). The delicious food offered at the community dinner in- cluded ears of Haman and Ahouva’s delicious poppy-seed cake. image: community dinner at Erev Purim

Internaonal Holocaust Remembrance Day at Etz Hayyim

On Monday, 28 January, the members of the Etz Hayyim Yad Vashem to child vicms of the Holocaust and their Havurah met at the Synagogue to observe Internaonal teacher from the Warsaw Gheo. The discussion with Holocaust Remembrance Day. For the Hashkavah students then begins by inving them to think about what (memorial prayer), a video of Rabbi Gabriel Negrin, rec- happened “between” those pictures, i.e. the early 1930s orded in Athens during the official commemorave cere- and the post-war period. The presentaon connues with mony the day before, was played. a brief general overview about the main events leading We connued with the first secon of a presentaon that up to the Holocaust in Europe and Greece. In the second forms part of the synagogue’s educaonal outreach pro- major part, students are introduced to primary source gramme. This was also presented in several local schools material illustrang those major events. on and shortly aer the official observance of Internaon- At the synagogue on that evening, the aending Havurah al Holocaust Remembrance Day at Greek schools in Janu- members closely followed the presentaon and empha- ary. sized how important they feel it is to educate local high This was a good opportunity to share with the Havurah school students about the Holocaust and its implicaons. some of the educaonal work carried out by the Syna- Aerwards the Havurah engaged not only in a discussion, gogue staff. The presentaon starts with a photograph of but also shared personal experiences and views connect- a Jewish scouts group from Thessaloniki in 1933 and is ed to the topic: family stories of loss and survival, how contrasted with another photograph of the monument at the Holocaust is commemorated in their countries of

origin, stories about growing up in Nazi-Germany, infor- maon about Jewish communies whose history is lile known and neglected as well as concerns about rising naonalism and racism, etc. Generally, Etz Hayyim’s educaonal outreach is first and foremost a project aimed at local students and teachers. Therefore reaching out to the Havurah was not the inial idea when creang this presentaon but the engagement 7 Jottings

with the material turned out very well and even conclud- rial service in June, when their names are read to com- ed in helpful feedback on the presentaon and some of memorate their arrest and subsequent death during the the sources and pictures used for it. (See the general re- sinking of the Tanais on 9 June 1944, the Havurah feels port on the Etz Hayyim educaonal outreach on p. 20 ff.). that we should also start observing Internaonal Holo- While we usually remember and honour the Cretan Jew- caust Remembrance Day and invite the general public to ish community lost in the Shoa during the annual memo- parcipate. The Havurah will prepare a programme.

Memorial for Greek Jews at Bat Yam Cemetery

In February, I visited family in Israel and while there we were destroyed during the Shoah. On Yom Hashoah, me- went to the Holon Cemetery in Bat Yam. To my amaze- morial services are held there every year. ment I saw the Holocaust monument for the Greek com- It was especially moving for me to see the lost Cretan munies, which also menons Hania and Irakleion as communies menoned as I have lived now for a number places where Jewish communies perished. As I found of years in Crete. In this me, I have become a dedicated out later, at Holon Cemetery, there are more than 800 member of the Etz Hayyim Havurah and feel connected tomb stones commemorang vanished communies that to the local Jewish history. Roger Yayon

Holiday Calendar Pesah Erev Pesah Service , 19 April, 7 pm Pesah Seder , 19 April, 8 pm (please rsvp by April 15) Morning Service , 20 April, 10 am Mimouna , 27 April, 8:30 pm Annual Memorial Service for Nikos Stavroulakis 26 May, 12 noon Weekly Services at Etz Hayyim Annual Memorial Service for Vicms of Tanais and the Jewish Community of Crete Kabbalat Shabbat Services are held every Friday. 2 June, 7:30 pm at Monument; 8:30 pm at Synagogue Candle lighng mes are posted on our website : (led by Gabriel Negrin, Rabbi of Athens) www.etz-hayyim-hania.org/events (click on the relevant dates in the calendar). Shavuot Other holidays will be announced on our website, by See complete Shavuot Program on p. 9 email and on our Facebook page. 8 Jottings

Upcoming Events Memorial Service for Nikos Stavroulakis 26 May 2019 The annual memorial service for Nikos Stavroulakis will take place at Etz Hayyim Synagogue on 26 May at 12 noon. The service will be led by the Rabbi of Athens, Gabriel Negrin. This year we celebrate 20 years since the reopen- ing of Etz Hayyim and Nikos is parcularly missed. We hope that many friends can join us for this event.

Shavuot and Visit by Oxford Jewish Congregaon

In October 2018, Sally Roland, a member of the Oxford Members of the Oxford Jewish Congregaon will be vis- Jewish Congregaon visited Etz Hayyim and has since ing Etz Hayyim over Shabbat and Shavuot from 7 to 11 been acvely promong interest in Etz Hayyim within her June 2019. There will be an eclecc mix in the group: community. arsts, architects, photographers, a poet, writers, aca- In February, she invited Etz Hayyim Board Member Tony demics and Hebrew scholars amongst the group. As they Lerman to give a talk about Nikos and Etz Hayyim. We tell us, they all look forward to meeng new friends at reprint below a report about the event by Louise Gordon, Etz Hayyim whilst engaging with their Jewish identy. which will be published in the May 2019 edion of the We would like to sincerely thank Sally Roland for her kind Oxford Jewish Congregaon’s “Menorah” magazine. support and look forward to spending Shavuot together.

Antony Lerman: "Against the Odds: The Story of the Re- funconing as a synagogue for 300 years. The agonising birth of Etz Hayyim Synagogue, Chania, Crete" decimaon of the Cretan Jewish community culminated on one awful day in May 1944, when Chania's remnant Survival can owe as much to stubbornness as to seren- dipity, and in the story which Antony Lerman shared with his Mosaic audience, the unswerving determinaon of one man loomed large. But long pre-dang that lay the glorious but lile known saga of 2300 richly expan- sive years of Jewish presence on Crete, and this Brish writer and founding Director of the Instute for Jewish Policy Research guided us through the eras: Hellenic, Andalusian, Islamic, Byzanne, Venean, Ooman, 19th Century, up to the eliminaon of the community under Nazi occupaon. There were "ups", and more oen "downs" along the historic route, with enre Jewish communies massacred at mes, caught up between Cretans clashing with Veneans, then Muslims with Chrisans, periods residing within gheos and without, surviving and even thriving by dint of trade and money- of some 270 men, women and children were arrested lending, and recurrent targeng by blood libels, one leg- and imprisoned, transported to the unimaginable terror acy of which are rabbinic remains sll buried beneath of a vault in Herakleion, then loaded onto the ship the synagogue precinct from occasions when venturing "Tanais", bound for Auschwitz but sunk by a Brish tor- to the cemetery beyond the walls would have imperiled pedo, with all lives lost even more certainly than had their mourners own lives. they reached the intended desnaon. When the Nazis arrived in 1941, the 15th century build- The end of the War saw the synagogue structure sll ing constructed as a Catholic church had been in vibrant standing, but vandalised, desecrated, in squalor and with 9 Jottings three of its four rabbinic tombs looted. Though it be- came in 1957 the property of the Greek Jewish Board, it Program for Shavuot 5779 (2019) connued a "dumping ground" within its inhospitable local environs. Earthquake damage brought it to the All services will be led by Etz Hayyim’s Vising Rabbi point of structural collapse, the precarious sole but un- Nicholas de Lange marked relic of a lost community, almost two and a half millenia erased from historic memory. Friday, 7 June Then, as Antony Lerman announced it: Enter Nikos. Nich- olas Peter Stavroulakis, born in Wisconsin USA to Greek 8:19 pm Kabbalat Shabbat service and Turkish parents, educated in the USA, then at SOAS in London, Hebrew University in Jerusalem, painter and Shabbat, 8 June engraver as well as academic and lecturer. Antony de- scribed to us a true "Renaissance man", charismac, in- 10 am Shacharit (Morning Service) spiraonal, spiritually quesng, his boundless capacity for rapport equaled only by his stubbornness. All these 9:15 pm Havdalah and Erev Shavuot service and qualies were harnessed in his mission to restore and study session with community potluck dinner rededicate Chania's synagogue, in Nikos' own words, to (contribuons welcome) "reconstruct an absence" for the twin aims of bearing witness to what had been, and breathing life into a re- Sunday, 9 June birthed spiritual enty. Through his efforts, Chania's synagogue was placed on 10 am Shavuot Service, with reading of the the World Monument Fund list of endangered cultural Ten Commandments monuments and from there captured the aenon of a Rothschild charitable fund headed up by one Antony Lerman. So began Antony's own involvement with the interrupted by two arson aacks, the second only a day restoraon project, first as assessor for funding, later as aer the ceremonial reopening celebrang recovery from the first. But Nikos "refused to be defined by an- Semism", and these physical ravages were countered by a great wave of public local and internaonal support, and the nurturing of much more deeply rooted interfaith relaons. Today, Etz Hayyim synagogue is a living place of prayer, recollecon and reconciliaon. In place of a congrega- on, there is a "Chavurah", a community of its own mak- ing, with transient aendees and interconnected world- wide network, comprising people of all Jewish denomi- naons, of other faiths and none. There are services for Shabbat and the Fesvals, weddings, B'nei Mitzvot, and also lectures, music, interfaith, newsleer and other publicaons, shop, educaonal outreach and school vis- its, a year-long programme for Austrian volunteers and an annual public memorial service on the anniversary of President of the synagogue board. Photos shown at his the sinking of the Tanais. For OJC members, there are Mosaic talk evidenced a decade of remarkable restora- many points of familiarity and connecon: the syna- on work, leading to the 1999 rededicaon ceremony of gogue's Judith Humphrey Garden carries the name of an exquisite space, tradional and fresh and lushly Jonathan Webber's late sister, our own Dalya Moss has green, with library, exhibion space and mikveh bringing been a volunteer, and this Shavuot a Mosaic-organised a renewed Jewish presence in Greek society and new trip will share in the life of this remarkable testament to seeds for interfaith relaons with community Seder and presence out of absence, to remembrance, renewal and Sukkot buffet. Barely a decade of promise was harshly Life. 10 Jottings

Concert with Ulrich von Wrochem

On 29 May, 7:30 pm, violist Ulrich von Wrochem will play a tribute concert at Etz Hayyim Synagogue com- memorang the 75th anniversary of the loss of the Cre- tan Jewish community during the Shoa. Ulrich von Wrochem contacted Etz Hayyim and kindly offered to perform on this occasion. He is the former principal viol- ist of Berlin Opera and La Scala in Milan. The programme of the concert will be announced shortly.

Annual Memorial Service for Cretan Jewish Community on 2 June 2019

2019 marks the 75th anniversary of the loss of the Cre- tan Jewish community in the Shoa. The annual memorial service for the community will take place on 2 June. At 7:30 pm, the event will begin with a commem- oraon for all vicms of the sinking of the Tanais at the monument in Koum Kapi. The ceremony will be followed by a memorial service at Etz Hayyim Synagogue led by Gabriel Negrin, Rabbi of Athens. During the ceremony the names of the lost community will be read and me- morial candles lit.

20th Anniversary of Reopening of Etz Hayyim

October 2019 marks the 20th anniversary of the rededi- gogue. The final programme with exact dates and mes caon of Etz Hayyim on 10 October 1999 (30th of Tishrei will be circulated as soon as possible so that friends and 5760). We will celebrate this occasion supporters can plan their possible visits with a series of events between Sunday, accordingly. 13 October (Erev Sukkot) and a main The 14-day fesval will begin with the commemorave event on 27 October Erev Sukkot service led by Etz Hayyim’s (as close a possible to 30th of Tishrei Vising Rabbi Nicholas de Lange and the 5780 which corresponds to 29 October opening of the Photo Exhibion: 20 Years 2019). of Etz Hayyim , which will take visitors on a These events will highlight Etz Hayyim visual journey through the past 20 years as a place of prayer, recollecon and and present one photo for each year. reconciliaon as Nikos Stavroulakis’ had (Due to the loss of much archival material defined it at the me of its rededicaon. in the 2010 arson aacks, we would ap- We hope that these events will provide preciate indeed if friends and supporters an opportunity to once more open the could share any photographs they feel doors of Etz Hayyim to visitors, local might be interesng for the exhibion. visitors in parcular, and strengthen the Please contact the office! ) presence of the synagogue as an inte- Etz Hayyim on Screen will highlight the gral part of the wider local community varied producon of visual and acousc of Hania. material of and about Etz Hayyim, i.e. Below we present a dra programme documentary films and other visual mate- with an outline for individual events highlighng the vari- rial as well as sound recordings and composions. ous acvies and achievements of Etz Hayyim Syna- A concert of Sephardi and – ideally – Romaniote music is 11 Jottings planned as a Sounding Etz Hayyim event. gogue with the wider Cretan heritage. Another event will present Etz Hayyim as a House of During a literary event Etz Hayyim in Poetry and Prose , Learning and showcase Etz Hayyim’s educaonal out- award-winning Brish poet, novelist and non-ficon writ- reach programme and some results of student projects er Ruth Padel will read from various literary works re- about Cretan Jewish history and culture. During the day, lang to the Jews of Crete and Etz Hayyim in parcular. the Synagogue staff will On 27 October, the offer walking tours of main commemorave the historic Jewish quar- event will take place un- ter of Hania (Ovraiki) der the tle “20 Years of based on the walking- Etz Hayyim - The Living tour map which is cur- Tree of Life ”. It will in- rently being prepared clude a commemorave (see p. 16 f.). service led by the Rabbi The event Culinary Etz of Athens, Gabriel Hayyim will combine a Negrin, and a keynote presentaon of the cus- speech. Friends and toms and tradions of supporters of Etz Hay- the main Jewish holi- yim, local officials, rep- days with a sampling of resentaves of the Cen- Greek Jewish cooking tral Board of Jewish based on Nikos Communies in Greece Stavroulakis’ Cookbook (KISE), representaves of the Jews of Greece , which has become the indispensa- of instuons which have supported the Etz Hayyim pro- ble basis for holiday cooking at Etz Hayyim. ject as well as members of the Board of Trustees of the A presentaon of Etz Hayyim as Makom will highlight the Not-for-Profit Corporaon Etz Hayyim will be invited. Synagogue’s role as a religious and historical site in It is our hope that this two-week fesval will bring to- (local) society. The event will be followed by an Open gether long-term friends of Etz Hayyim and guests who Erev Shabbat on 25 October. An accompanying event will can discover the scope of our acvies which connue be the exhibion “Parallel Points of View” during the two Nikos Stavroulakis’ legacy and at the same me embark fesve weeks (see report on the Heritage Contact Zone on new projects to strengthen Etz Hayyim’s role as a partnership on p. 18), which engages Etz Hayyim Syna- place of prayer, recollecon and reconciliaon.

Recent Events

Yad Vashem Award ceremony Hania, 25 th October 2018

Yad Vashem is an important instuon for the memory of 1999, the Xirouhakis and the Paitakis families from Kas- the Holocaust and for its educaonal significance. Among teli (Kisamos, Hania) were honoured. Those families, and other things, Yad Vashem has established the Award of especially Stylianos and Damaskini Xirouhaki and Manolis the Righteous Among the Naons, a tle given to non- Paitakis, gave shelter to the family of Salvator and Carol- Jewish people who saved persecuted Jews during the la Avram, who had stopped in Crete during their effort to Second World War. find a way to escape to Egypt. In Crete, unl today, the honorary tle of Righteous On 25 October 2018, the honorary tle was awarded, Among the Naons has been awarded on three occasions posthumously, to Athena Varvataki. Athena came from by Yad Vashem: on 12 December 1972, the Petrakis fami- the village of Kournas (Apokoronas, Hania) and was the ly (Manolis and Angoni Petraki) from Hania were hon- person who lived with young Iossif Ventura, hidden in a oured. Manolis Petrakis – already deceased in 1972 – was house in Athens throughout the German occupaon. To- the man who saved one of the few survivors from the day the honour of Righteous Among the Naons is con- Hania Jewish populaon: Iossif Konen. On 21 January sidered as a valuable educaonal opportunity. This is the 12 Jottings reason why the Ministry of Educaon and Religious to her relaves, as well as to Iossif Ventura himself, by the Affairs in Greece takes advantage of this ceremony to students of the 1st High School of Hania. The Ambassador teach an important lesson to the students of Greek of Israel was present and gave the following speech. We schools. Therefore the ceremonies are organized by thank the Embassy of Israel in Athens for the permission school students, who must take care of the whole presen- to reprint. (See also the arcle “Culture of Remembrance taon. This ceremony for Athena Varvataki was a real gi in Greece” on p. 27f.)

Address by Israeli Ambassador to Greece Irit Ben -Abba

I am excited to be present here this morning in Hania the lives of Jews. So far more than 26,000 people were during this ceremony commemorang the rescue story awarded around the world, among them are 335 Greeks. of Mr. Iossif Ventura, a very well known poet, who came Among the honoured were diplomats of foreign coun- from a family with roots back in Zakynthos. The family tries, from Japan, Sweden, Spain, Austria, the Philippines was already seled for decades in Crete and, in their and others that gave visas to Jews escaping from the effort to escape from the Germans, fled to Athens. Nazis and by this saved their lives, there are bishops, Young Iossif was then saved by a noble woman, Athena mayors, police and military people who rescued Jews all Varvataki, from the village of Kournas, not so far from over Europe and there are ordinary people like Athena Hania, who at that me was working as a maid for a fam- that saved their neighbors, their friends. ily in Athens. These are all sweet souls as for them it did not maer Athena took care of young Iossif for four years and eve- who these people were, what religion they had, for them rybody assumed that he was her son. This was a very these were simply human beings who were chased by others just because they were from a different religion which the Nazis believed had to be exterminated from earth. Since I arrived in Greece, four years ago, I have parci- pated in numerous such ceremonies all over Greece, granng awards to family members, usually due to the me that has passed, of those who saved Jews every- where around Greece either in Thessaloniki, Athens, Vo- los and many other places and the story is the same eve- rywhere: wonderful humane gestures by noble human beings who believed in saving the lives of others who are in misery and despair. You should all be proud that this country has great per- sonalies like the bishop and the mayor of Zakynthos Image of Athena Varvataki screened during the presentaon who saved the lives of 250 Jews, the whole Jewish com- unique and humane behaviour by a young woman who munity of Zakynthos, like the Bishop of Volos who saved acted like this because she realized that this is her duty: the lives of most of the Jewish community of Volos, of to save the life of those that are in danger of persecuon the chief of police of Athens who saved the lives of hun- and death. She acted like this because she grew up be- dreds of Jews from Athens and those who managed to lieving that saving the life of one person is like saving the escape from other parts of Greece to Athens. These are life of the whole universe - as the Jewish proverb says. the heroes from Greece who were all awarded with the For this, she will be honoured today, in her village in Righteous Among Naons Award of Yad Vashem. Kournas, with the special award that is granted to non- The Jewish community of Greece is an ancient one. The Jews who risked their life to save Jews during the Holo- Jews lived in Greece already in the first century CE. They caust. The award is granted by Yad Vashem, the Holo- were in Ioannina, Sparta, Chios, Rhodes, and other plac- caust Remembrance Instute in Jerusalem. Yad Vashem es. The majority of the Jewish community arrived in is the only instute worldwide that officially grants this Greece in the 15th century aer the expulsion of the Righteous Among Naons Award to non-Jews who saved Jews from Spain by Queen Isabella. Those seled mainly 13 Jottings in Salonica and in other parts of the then Ooman Em- Jews. pire. In Greece there were big communies since the Chancellor Angela Merkel who visited Israel a few days 15th century in Corfu, in Volos, in Larissa in Ioannina, ago and paid yet another visit to the Yad Vashem Muse- Rhodes, Corfu, Zakynthos, Athens and Hania as well. For um of the Holocaust repeated once again: ‘‘Nearly 80 hundreds of years the Greek Jews lived in great friendli- years ago, during the Kristallnacht pogroms on the 9th of ness with their Greek Orthodox friends and shared their November, the Jewish people of Germany were con- lives together. The Jews of Greece are Greeks first and fronted with hate and violence in an unprecedented foremost, despite the fact that they pracce a different manner. What followed was the unparalleled crime that religion. The Jews contributed to the culture, the philos- ruptured civilizaon, the Shoa. It is from this point that ophy, the economy of this country for many generaons, Germany’s everlasng responsibility to remember this they were traders, farmers, merchants and port workers crime and oppose an-Semism, xenophobia, hate and in Salonica and they enjoyed a brotherly-like friendship violence arises.” with the Greek Orthodox for many generaons. The The Jews of Hania, a very old Jewish community of cen- Greek Jewish community is considered the jewel of the turies whose synagogue is sll open ll today, were tak- Balkan’s Jewish communies. en by the Nazis aboard the ship Tanais. The ship was But this very old and special community was brutally ex- bombarded by the allied forces and sunk in the sea on its pelled in 1943 by the Nazis to Auschwitz and Bergen Bel- way to Athens. They were expelled by the Nazis and had sen concentraon camps and 90 percent of the over

Ambassador Ben-Abba (le), mayor of Hania Tasos Vamvou- Ambassador Ben-Abba (le) with Athena Varvataki’s nephew kas (2nd le) and Archbishop of Crete Irinaios (centre) during and nice, Iossif Ventura (right) the award ceremony 100,000 Jews who lived in Greece just before the Second they reached Athens, they would have been taken World War were brutally murdered in the gas chambers straight to Auschwitz camp as well. of Auschwitz. And why? Just because they were perse- Our mission as the generaon aer the Holocaust, the cuted by the Nazis for being Jews. Hitler’s mission was to Shoah, is to remember and never forget. To educate the kill all Jews in Europe. His systemac slaughter machine youngsters to believe in liberal values of tolerance, an- managed to kill six million Jews, among them one million racism, an-Semism and accepng everyone for what children. Very few survived the concentraon camps and they are as human beings. We should cry out loud some were rescued by good non-Jews. The very few sur- against an-Semic statements and acons, we should vivors went to Israel aer the war and established the enact laws against those who call for hatred and an- State of Israel. Semism and xenophobia. In this world of open social In a few days, on 9 November, we will commemorate the media, especially you, the young generaon that is so Kristallnacht, that night in 1938 when synagogues and much exposed to Facebook and Instagram, you have to Jewish property were destroyed and Jews aacked all be very alert to racist statements and to hate slogans. over Germany. This was the beginning of the systemac Hitler got to power through democrac means. He paved murder of anything that was Jewish in Germany and his way to power using democracy as a tool but managed then in Europe and the systemac murdering of all the then easily to proceed with his Nazi ideology very fast.

14 Jottings

No one stopped him. Millions collaborated with him in for all of us no maer what religion, faith, color and belief his ideas of geng the world clean from Jews. You, as the we represent. young generaon of the world, should learn about this I would like to thank once again the Minister and the Sec- part of the history of Europe that took place only less retary General of the Ministry of Educaon and Religious than 80 years back, understand the roots of hatred, and Affairs, who are doing their utmost to introduce the Holo- learn how to fight bravely against hate and cruelty caust as a compulsory chapter in the Greek curricula, who around you. This way the world might be a beer place encourage students in high schools to parcipate in in- tensive discourse about the Holocaust, who send teach- ers and educators to Yad Vashem to be trained on how to teach about the Holocaust in Greek schools, and arrange for youngsters around Greece to visit Auschwitz every year. Remembrance and educaon are the most crucial. Igno- rance is the enemy. I hope that today’s event will encour- age you all to go back home and read and study at length the Jewish tragedy of the Holocaust and be proud that there were wonderful people here in Greece, like Athena, that saved wonderful people, like Iossif Ventura. Thank you. Ongoing Projects Exhibion “Tales from an Old Fort Town ”

The exhibion “Tales from an Old Fort Town”, Cretan- (hopefully) found a lovely place hanging on a Viennese Brish arst George Sfougaras’ arsc response to the wall by now. Whenever they are in Hania, Etz Hayyim is fate of the Jewish community in Crete, commenced on among the first places the couple visits – so they have 24 October 2018 in the presence of Irit Ben-Abba, Israeli been to the synagogue a couple of mes and feel drawn Ambassador to Greece, and several members of Etz Hay- to the place itself as well as its quietness. They also ex- yim’s Board of Trustees. The exhibion will remain on pressed their appreciaon of the building’s good state of display at least throughout this summer to reach a wider preservaon. On being asked what made them buy the audience among the up to 25,000 visitors we expect artwork, they simple said: ‘It’s kind of dark, regarding the again this year. content as well as the used arsc technique’, so in their Throughout the winter, the exhibion has already im- eyes the disappearance of Cretan Jewish communies pressed our visitors as numerous entries in the guestbook show (see box on p. 15). Equally, George’s book, which Etz Hayyim Synagogue published with Lycabeus Press, Athens for the exhibi- on opening, has proved to be a favorite with visitors and we hope to soon publish a second edion. The book includes a brief overview of Cretan Jewish history and reproduces the ten drawings of the exhibion alongside reflecons by the arst on the themes of the drawings. George’s artwork is enhanced by the evocave poems of Shelly Tracey, a South African poet with Latvian and Lith- uanian Jewish roots. George also kindly donated prints of several of the draw- ings of the exhibion on heritage archival paper. The first print was purchased, even before the actual exhibi- on opening, by an Austrian Jewish couple and has 15 Jottings during the Second World War was depicted absolutely accurately in the artworks. Inially, both of them just wanted to take a quick look at the mikveh, but aer en- tering they were immediately impressed by George’s art- work which was just being installed. So it was a spontane- ous purchase followed by quite an interesng conversa- on and background story. What made them return to Etz Hayyim so many mes? They say that there’s something new to discover every me. Some of the special prints are sll available and can be obtained by contacng the synagogue office; all proceeds will support the work of Etz Hayyim. We also created greeng cards with the images of those prints. During George’s visit for the exhibion opening, we were also fortunate to learn more about the impressive scope of his work in which he explores themes like human mi- graon and cultural heritage. He is the coordinator of Fo- cus on Identy , a group of 19 arsts from 12 countries. In some of his most recent work he created a book about the Andalusian Emirate of Crete (recently published by his work are creave maps with a (trans)historical and/or Mehri Publicaons, London, as “Tales from the Castle of personal focus. This luckily coincided with one of our on- the Moat. The Forgoen Conquerors”). Another focus of going projects at Etz Hayyim (see p. 16 ff.)

From the visitors ’ book “I feel proud for the people who promote the truth “So very moving – and exceponal art.” Evan Sco, USA about the Greek Jews who were lost unfairly, due to racism. The place here is wonderful and brings lots of “Haunng and thought provoking art, but lovely atmos- memories on surface. Thank you for preserving and phere here of peace and hope.” L. & T. Hegarty, UK keeping the place alive. PS. From Xanthi where 500 “What you have shared with all of us who enter this Jews were seled, we also had a synagogue but they extraordinary place representave of past and present didn't respect it. However, the Jewish cemeteries sll is truly very very special. Thank you. Very moving.” exist and are taken care of by ΠΑΚΕΘΡΑ [cultural and A. & D. Bernhard, Virginia developmental center of Thrace].” Ekaterina Stavropoulou-Vlachou 16 Jottings

Map for Self -Guided Tour of Hania Jewish Quarter During guided tours of Etz Hayyim Synagogue our visitors bourhood. For instance, inially, George had based the quite oen also ask for informaon about the historic reconstrucon of the now non-existent Beth Shalom Syn- Jewish neighborhood and unl now we had to reply: agogue “on the Etz Hayyim design but orientated the gar- There is not much to be seen if you don’t know what to den differently.” This challenge and the general feeling look for. But for quite some me we had considered cre- that it would be best to put the dra map to the test to- ang a map for a self-guided tour for visitors. We had gether made us invite George for a one-week arsc resi- first put together the informaon we have about the dency in mid-March. Ovraiki, the historic Jewish quarter of Hania, for a guided On the first day of George’s stay, we started with a work- tour when the Rabbi of Athens, Gabriel Negrin, asked us lunch (with some dishes Nikos used to serve for weekend to show the historic Jewish quarter to members of the dinners at his house) and we agreed on the schedule for Athens community during their visit to Etz Hayyim in Oc- the week. The next day, George spent sketching and tober 2017. drawing in the Ovraiki. On Monday, 18 March, the Rabbi We realised then that quite a bit of informaon was of Athens, Gabriel Negrin, happened to be in Hania and

available and could be put into a compelling narrave. joined George and the synagogue staff for a tour of the But we lacked a suitable map of Ovraiki. Our wonderful Ovraiki during which we tried to determine the locaon collaboraon with the Cretan-Brish arst George Sfou- and dimensions of garas, who previously worked on various kinds of arsc the destroyed Beth maps, has now given us the opportunity to have a map Shalom synagogue created of Ovraiki for this specific walking tour. based on historic The process started earlier this year with Gedenkdienst photographs. We volunteer Maike taking a lot of photographs of all the followed the route houses in the Ovraiki, which together with a selecon of for the self-guided historic and modern maps allowed George to study and tour on the map to understand the layout of the neighbourhood. Aer cre- make sure that all ang a footprint of the area, George “construct(ed) the the stops, which 3D buildings, basically raising them up from the will be included in 'footprints'. This is a tricky bit, as I am using a lt factor the final map, are that allows me to show the facades as far as possible,” as appropriately de- he explains on his blog (hps://georgesfougaras. picted. blogspot.com/2019/02/map-hania-crete.html ). The next day, we One challenge has been of course the decision which took George to a “reality” the map should depict: on the one hand it meeng with local should be accurate enough to help visitors to navigate hobby historian through the neighborhood but on the other it should also Exploring the route through Ovraiki with Rabbi Negrin, George be a means for re-imagining the historic Jewish neigh- Sfougaras and Board of Trustees President Marianna Vinther. 17 Jottings

Manousakas’ informaon allowed a revision of the loca- on and layout of Beth Shalom on George’s dra map (see image to the le). We eventually also agreed to in- clude a disnguishable “ghost” building in the map at the end of Kondylaki street as the street, contrary to today, used to be cut off from the sea. On Wednesday, 20 March, we walked to the four stops for the map that are located outside the Jewish quarter, among them the former Jewish cemetery in the Nea Hora neighbourhood west of the old town, the former family home of Iossif Ventura and the Historical Archive of Crete, which is located in a former Jewish family home close to the public gardens. In the evening, George aended the Etz Hayyim event for Erev Purim and read from the Megillat Esther in Greek. George spent the last day of his residency trying to cap- ture more visual material from the Ovraiki to take back home to the UK in order to complete the map. At the end of March, he presented us with the final version of the map and we are now working on compleng the narra- ve and addional illustraons for the stops on the tour. George also generously donated all his work on the pro- ject for us to use in whatever way will benefit Etz Hayyim. Giving him several copies of our new Interfaith Calendar Manolis Manousakas, who has a large collecon of his- for 2019/20 will just be a very small way to thank him for torical photographs and previously published about both his dedicaon and loving support. We very much look Etz Hayyim and Beth Shalom synagogues in the local forward to connuing this wonderful collaboraon and newspaper. Our findings from the previous day and Mr. hope to welcome George again at Etz Hayyim very soon.

Etz Hayyim ’s Interfaith Calendar 2019/20

We connue a by now well-established tradion and publish the lat- est edion of the Etz Hayyim Interfaith Calendar. As usual, the calen- dar includes Jewish, Chrisan and Muslim holidays, meculously re- searched by our Gedenkdienst volunteer Maike. This edion covers September 2019 to December 2020. The calendar layout is done again by Nikos Afentakis. The illustraons, drawings by George Sfougaras, invite you to a stroll through Ovraiki, the historic Jewish quarter of Hania and thus bring Etz Hayyim closer to your own doorstep. The calendar can be or- dered from the Synagogue office. All proceeds from the Calendar directly support the maintenance and work of Etz Hayyim Synagogue. In 5780 (2019/20), we also hope to implement an idea of one of our Havurah members to further put into pracce the interfaith ap- proach promoted with this calendar. We will keep you updated about this project under the working tle “Hania 5780-1441- 2019/20”. Your copy of the Interfaith Calendar is available for a donaon of 15 Euro (plus shipping; Greece € 2, Europe € 3, world € 3.30) from the Synagogue office. 18 Jottings

Heritage Contact Zone: Budapest Partner Meeng and Cretan Parallel Points of View

Since the launch of the cooperave project Heritage Con- bers of the public in the creaon of the exhibion. Since tact Zone (HCZ) in September 2018, our local acvies February, several workshops with parcipants from vari- have started taking shape. In the Heritage Contact Zone ous backgrounds have taken place. The arst describes project, Etz Hayyim is working with six partner organisa- the aim of the workshop as follows: “Our workshops are ons from across Europe: Castrum Peregrini, Amsterdam designed in a way that allows the parcipants to experi- (NL), Goethe Instut Lyon (DE), Human Plaorm Buda- ence the insight that all narraves are constructed ones, pest (HU), Timisoara European Capital of Culture (RO), be it the mainstream narrave, be it any addional/ European University Instute Florence (IT) and Culture parallel narrave, be it the self-perspecve or the exclud- Acon Europe Brussels (BE). The project focuses on ne- ing view from outside. Based on this insight, the parci- glected and contested European heritage and engages pants discuss to which degree they personally ascribe to communies and cizens in building new approaches to ‘their’ addional narrave, ask themselves whether they European heritage which will be showcased in exhibions consider it a homogenous narrave, re-evaluate why and in five partner countries and a transnaonal online exhi- to which point and in which ways they feel excluded. bion to celebrate the European Year of Cultural Herit- Eventually, they decide what they want to tell the public age. about themselves through a specific object and a story For the local exhibion, Etz Hayyim is cooperang with that puts the object into context.” the Hania educaonal not-for-profit associaon Young Four of the other project partners are also hosng exhibi- Cizens of the World and the curang arst Konstann ons in the framework of the Heritage Contact Zone pro- ject and first objects and stories are now online on the project website: www.heritagecontactzone.com. The Hania exhibion will be open to the public during the second half of October, specifically the two weeks of fes- ve events commemorang the 20th anniversary of the rededicaon of Etz Hayyim (see p. 10f.). According to the curang arst: “It is our goal to show the richness of the Logos of the cooperaon partners for the Hania exhibion exisng cultural diversity in our specific, as well as wider, area, and to present this rich cultural diversity to the gen- Fischer, himself a long-term member of the Etz Hayyim eral public as an opportunity for, and strength of, Hania, Havurah. Under the tle “Parallel points of view. heritage Crete and Greece. We aim to build bridges, where cur- and intercultural dialogue. Heritage Contact Zone, Hania”, rently cultural stereotypes tend to divide the populaon. this exhibion will look at Cretan history and heritage This construcon of bridges already starts within the from ten different angles, i.e. perspecves that are usual- workshops.” The exhibion will be on display in the Sabbi- ly not part of the mainstream narrave. In keeping with onara exhibion space (image below, le: layout of the framework of the project, the arst involves mem- planned exhibion), a former gate house in the historic 19 Jottings

Hania city walls. World War. The planned memorial uncrically and in On 4 and 5 February, our cooperaon partner Human disregard of history suggested that all Hungarians were Plaorm, an umbrella organizaon of Hungarian NGOs, vicms, while neglecng that many Hungarian Jews fell hosted the second Heritage Contact Zone partner not only vicm to the German occupaon but to Hun- meeng in Budapest. The HCZ project works in parcular garian perpetrators as well. This outraged numerous with acvists of the Living Memorial iniave (Eleven Jewish and non-Jewish Hungarians, who expressed their Emlékmű), which is part of Human Plaorm. views during a flash mob organised on 23 March 2014 at The partner meeng took place in the Instute for Poli- Szabadság tér (Liberty Square), the site designated for cal History (Polikatörténe Intézet), a symbolic locaon the official monument. They lit candles and placed just across from the Hungarian Parliament. While it stones and personal objects (like photographs, leers, served as the Instute of Party History of the Hungarian pens, books etc.) in memory of the vicms of the Shoa, Socialist Workers’ Party from 1957 to 1989, it has now which resulted in the “Living Memorial”, a public instal- developed into a private research instute, archive and laon, that gave the movement its name. think-tank focusing Since that day in 2014, acvists of Living Memorial regu- on historical and so- larly gather to protect and maintain the site. They also cietal issues in stark meet there and in other locaons throughout the city opposion to the for discussion circles during which people from all kinds right-wing Fidesz of backgrounds tell their personal and family stories in government of Vic- an aempt to deal with the mulfaceted and complex tor Orbán, which is history and memory of the Second World War. The two aempng to confis- opposing chairs in the Living Memorial logo symbolise cate both the majori- the important role of dialogue in their approach. In the ty of the materials of end, the Orbán government did build the contested the archives and the monument – it goes without saying that they did so headquarters build- without any public dialogue. But as András Rényi, one of Logo of the Living Memorial ing. The somewhat the founding members of Living Memorial, emphasised Kaaesque atmos- during a visit to the monument with the HCZ partners: phere of the building – with huge empty shelves and “The government monument was never officially inau- wide empty floors – reflects this lingering conflict. gurated and is not used for public events. So, as a monu- The Living Memorial acvists share the opposion to the ment it is dead, it does not exist.” right-wing Orbán government, in fact their movement The next partner meeng will take place in Marseille in started in response to plans of that very government for June. The partners will visit Hania for a meeng in the a highly controversial memorial dedicated to the vicms second half of October during our fesvies for the 20th of the German invasion of Hungary during the Second anniversary of Etz Hayyim’s rededicaon (see p. 10f.)

Detail of the Living Memorial counter-monument Living Memorial acvist András Rényi explaining the memorial 20 Jottings

Educaonal Outreach Report on Etz Hayyim ’s Educaonal Programmes

In the last few months, Etz Hayyim’s educaonal out- bers of its Jewish populaon before the war, are used reach expanded with several new programmes and much for outlining the presence of this community and giving success. The important contribuon of last year’s semi- it its righul place in the local history, with which the nar which was organized in Hania by the Jewish Museum students are familiar to some extent. of Greece in cooperaon with Etz Hayyim – a seminar • Visits by primary schools, which have included the Syna- addressed to the teachers of Crete – brought its first gogue in a general plan of students geng to know the fruits this academic year as Etz Hayyim as an educaonal ‘other’, the ‘not-very-well-known’: the majority of those venue is now much wider known. Fieen schools have children have no idea whatsoever about the historical or already either visited the Synagogue or have asked us to the religious aspects of the Jewish presence in Crete visit them; students have aended various programmes during the previous centuries. An-Jewish stereotypes of educaonal acvies. Some of these programmes are have occasionally come up. The main goal in those cases connected to Holocaust educaon, while others focus on on our part is to make the children develop some sense Cretan Jewish history. The common background of them of familiarity and experience a visit that will make them all, and their goal, is to speak about the reality, the feel comfortable with the place. One example of the meaning and the pracces of co-existence and diversity. type of acvies used during such visits is making good The programmes used are not ready-made. The Etz Hay- use of a list of photographs with objects from Chrisani- yim staff is currently involved in an ongoing process of ty and Judaism. Children are asked to wander around creang a range of educaonal acvies and themac the Synagogue premises, look for the objects on the list packages taking into consideraon the following: the and and then meet again inside the Synagogue, where we and school grade of the aending students, the possible discuss which of the objects they found are from the input that they have already received earlier in school, synagogue and which photographs show objects from the reason of their dealing with the specific topic and the churches. We address the symbolism of each object and

best possible method for pupils’ acve involvement dur- talk about commonalies and differences of objects in ing the teaching sessions. the two religions. Emphasis is also put on non-religious Thus, up to now, the various programmes with the items one comes across at the Etz Hayyim, like the fish schools can be summarized as follows: ponds. The orientaon of this material is mainly sensory. • Visits of general interest from schools which come by • Visits by schools as part of religious studies classes: in the Synagogue for a quick look: the most effecve ap- those cases, the teachers have usually prepared the proach in those cases is achieved through items, repli- class regarding the various religious ceremonies and cas of Judaica, which compose an easy-access educa- tradions. Part of the above menoned material is used onal kit and give a general idea how a synagogue func- selecvely for those students and a comprehensive dis- ons. Moreover, a collecon of photographs of the Jew- cussion takes place inside the synagogue, since the ish neighbourhood of Hania, as well as of some mem- place offers many chances for quesons and

21 Jottings discussions. not strike them and shock them. One main target is that • Visits by schools with a focus on local or general history: the children know exactly what they will see in Ausch- in those cases there is a range of material to be used, witz. Secondly, students must be encouraged to express according to the me available and the previous their feelings and claim their personal space during the knowledge of the students. We use a variety of sources camp visit, if necessary. In order to achieve this, part of and materials for the acvies with student on such the preparaon on our side is focused on spending me topics: an interior photograph of the Beth Shalom Syna- on discussing their feelings and expectaons already gogue of Hania – the second synagogue, which does not before the visit, with guided methods. exist today – on the day of the arrival of King Konstan- • In addion to specific programmes, upon request we nos in Crete in 1913 (illustrang that the local Jewish provide teachers with informaon about the history of community was regarded as an integral part of the local the Jewish community of Crete and about the Holocaust society); some pages from a local registry of 1906 with for projects they plan to conduct with their students the Chrisan, Muslim and Jewish names of the voters of (see e.g. the projects described on the following pages). Hania (illustrang the mul-faith society of Hania at the Currently, our staff is preparing a project on the “Diary of me); a series of documents referring to the Jewish Anne Frank”, which will be first introduced during a one- cemetery of the town unl the late 1940’s (illustrang day seminar in a school in the south of Hania Prefecture, the rootedness and subsequent loss and neglect of the which requested this specific programme. And most re- local Jewish community). cently, we started consultaons with a local school on the • Holocaust educaonal outreach: a specific educaonal concept of an educaonal programme on “Interfaith Per- package for a teaching unit of about 2-3 school hours, specves” which will introduce pupils to Judaism, Islam which covers the history of the Holocaust and its con- and Chrisanity from a comparave perspecve empha- text, both in Europe and in Greece. The package in- sising commonalies and common roots of the three reli- cludes acvies based on a meline of the main events gious tradions. leading up to the Holocaust and five different contem- The feedback on the educaonal acvies of the Syna- porary primary sources highlighng the causes of the gogue has already been very posive and we are happy to Holocaust as well as experiences both of vicms and be able to contribute to the educaon of young students perpetrators. This is material is both used at schools in geng to know ‘the other’, in today’s Greece meaning which ask us to present this acvity for Internaonal the non-white or the non-Chrisan orthodox or the non- Holocaust Remembrance Day and in specific educaon- born-in-Greece descendant. al units which focus on Jewish history and the history of The teaching materials and a descripon of the seminar the Second World War. topics will also be made available on our Greek website. • A teaching unit on the “Night of Broken We would also like to thank our Gedenkdienst volunteer Glass” (Kristallnacht), using a report about the events of Maike Heinrich for her invaluable support in developing November 1938 in the German town of Dresden, is an these teaching packages. acvity developed at a specific request from a local school to highlight the mechanisms and dangers of ex- clusion and racism. • Preparaon of students for a visit to Auschwitz: For sev- eral years now, an annual video contest for schools takes place all over Greece and the winning entries are awarded with an educaonal trip to Auschwitz. This year, we were asked by the Jewish Museum of Greece to develop a package focused on the best way to pre- pare young students to visit the memorial site at the former exterminaon camp. The goal of this prepara- on is two-fold, according to the pedagogical methods researched on that topic: to start with, students get a concrete historical background on the history of the- Holocaust, so that their visit to the specific place does 22 Jottings

The Jews of Iraklion: School Research Project of the 6 th High School of Iraklion

On 23 January, a programme on “The It was curiosity that led us to study the histo- Jewish Community of Iraklion” was ry of the Jews.” presented at the Kalokairinos Commu- The teacher in charge of the project was nity Center in Iraklion by students of Georgios Hatzizisis, teacher of Computer Sci- the 6 th High School. ence with a Theology Master Degree. The During the previous school year, these project was presented in Iraklion in January students were involved in a project 2019 in an event organized by the Associa- which dealt with the historical pres- on of Philologists of Heraklion. ence of various religious communies The presentaon was followed by the in Iraklion. As the students themselves screening of a documentary related to the explain in the preface of the presenta- story of the survivor Ovadiah Baruch, a Jew on “we knew about the existence of from Salonica. The whole event was orga- Catholics, Muslims, but we were totally nized within the context of the Internaonal ignorant about the existence of Jews. Holocaust Remembrance Day.

Tribute to Iossif Ventura and his Poem Tanais Iraklion, Gazi High School – Municipality of Malevizi

On 1 March 2019, the High School of Gazi, in Irakleion, Mr. Ventura, apart from being a man with an extremely organized two consecuve events to honour the Cretan important personal history on his shoulders, is also a Jewish poet Iossif Ventura. The first event took place in ‘teenager’; the students grasped this immediately and the school, as an educaonal acvity addressed to the kept commenng on it even the following days in class. students. The poet himself presented Tanais , the poem The aernoon event was co-organized with the Munici- which he wrote commemorang the Holocaust of the pality of Malevizi, that is the municipality to which the Jewish community of Crete. The meeng was beyond our school belongs. The event was open to the public. Stu- best expectaons. 125 students aended his presenta- dents, parents and teachers aended. Colleagues from on. 75 of them had already worked on the poem within the High School of Hersonissos, Iraklion, accompanied the limits of the Literature class, while the rest had stud- some of their students to the event. An important input ied the historical background of the poem in the History was that of the student Aggelos Maragkakis, who com- class. The meeng lasted two hours. The children were posed music for the Tanais poem and presented a part of magnesed by Mr. Venturas’ presentaon. Even those it at the event with his lute. individuals who had declared their indifference earlier, We would like to thank all the people who contributed to stayed up to the very the events. end of the discussion Maria Varoucha & Anastasia Bouli, that followed the teachers at Gazi High School presentaon. Aer- wards, around twenty students approached the poet and either bombarded him with extra quesons or asked him to take selfies or sign auto- graphs! Even us, the teachers in charge of the event, did not ex- pect this great success! 23 Jottings

Treasure Hunng in Hania

On 10 March 2019, the last Sunday of the carnival sea- every age came to the monument locaon and a lot of son, a treasure hunng game was organized by the radio them told us that they have not paid any aenon so far staon SUPER FM for the 23rd consecuve me. to the monument, even though it is located in a visible Through 14 puzzle quesons, the parcipants had to lo- spot. So, through fun and compeon we tried to encour- cate different spots in the city of Hania and aer solving age the people of Hania to look again carefully at the each puzzle, they had to go on to the next spot. monument of Tanais. The riddle that the parcipants had The treasure hunt is organised every year by the team to solve was: that won it the previous year. The main focus of the or- Some call it Танаис, ganisers is that the parcipants get to know spots of the Some call it Danae city that are not well known to the majority of the local It was lost in the sea populaon. This year, one of the puzzles was referring to but sll views over the sea. the monument of the shipwreck of the Tanais. We, as organizers, chose the monument in order to “force” the The riddle refers to the name of the ship in Russian and in parcipants to locate it, see it and even for some Greek. Then the puzzle implies the wreck of the ship and minutes search the history behind it. It was important for the locaon of the monument on the seaside of Koum us to aach to the monument a different kind of use, in Kapi. addion to the touching memorial service that takes place there every year. The team that created the riddles included: The weather was perfect and it was a delighul experi- Giannakakis Giannis, Kokolaki Tasoula, Kaminakis Nikos, ence for us to wait for each team to solve the puzzle and Vouraki Elena, Vourou Dora, Sfakiotakis Stavros go on to the next spot of the treasure hunt. People of

1st Hania High School Event on Internaonal Poetry Day

On 21 March 2019, the 1 st High School of Hania organ- ised a school event for Internaonal Poetry Day. Bridging the students’ previous experience while preparing the Righteous Among the Naons ceremony (see p. 11-14), with the celebraon of the power of poetry, the school invited Iossif Ventura, the poet of Tanais , which is com- memorang the Holocaust in Crete. The teachers in charge were E. Kartsonaki, M. Vernardou, N. Xanthou- dakis and G. Kyriakaki. 24 Jottings

Cretan Jewish History Elijah Del Medigo

Although he spent most of his adult life in various cies original philosophical works in both languages. His philo- of northern Italy, the Jewish philosopher Elijah Del Medi- sophical works and translaon were all composed under go (ca. 1458–1493) was born in Crete, and is one of the the heavy influence of the 12 th -century philosopher Aver- finest examples of the mul-cultural nature of the island roes, whose philosophical legacy had a strong impact on during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. My recent scholarly circles in Venice and Padua at the me. In short, monograph on Del Medigo’s philosophical work ( Elijah Del Medigo served as an intellectual intermediary, acve Del Medigo and Paduan Aristotelianism , London: Blooms- on the university scene of Padua. He was translang texts bury, 2017) is only one among several recent studies that were preserved in Hebrew, influenced by a Muslim dedicated to his life and work, and the following passag- philosopher, at the request of his Chrisan friends and es are aimed at introducing the unique figure and acvity scholars (most notably Pico della Mirandola). Del Medigo, of this important Cretan Jewish thinker. one should note, was but one of many Cretans, both Jews Del Medigo was born in and genles, who Candia (Iraklio) around parcipated in the 1458. His origin is reflect- intellectual and ed in references to his scholarly life of that name in both Lan and university during the Hebrew sources, which Middle Ages and the refer to him as Elijah Renaissance, and who contributed to . אליהו מקנדיא Cretensis or His family, which originat- its internaonal char- ed in Germany, seled in acter. Crete in the early four- Del Medigo’s Cretan teenth century. A de- affiliaon is reflected scendent of Del Medigo is not only in his cultur- the famous 17 th -century al and intellectual Kabbalist Joseph Del Medigo, who, like Elijah, was born in acvity but also by Candia yet spent most his mature life travelling in distant the fact that while in lands. Elijah himself spent his early years in Candia at a Italy he did not stop me when the island was a melng pot of various cultur- dreaming of his al influences from both east and west: Venice, Byzan- homeland. Del Medi- um, and from a Jewish perspecve Spain, North Africa go was not fond of and Germany. As will be shown presently, this multude the Jews he met in northern Italy, who were much more of influences is reflected in Del Medigo’s own intellectual oriented towards Kabbalah than towards raonal philoso- formaon. phy. In one of his philosophical treases he laments that As Crete had been under Venean rule since the he had to leave his beloved Candia and to live among he ,( בין אנשים סכלים ורעים ) th century, Del Medigo, like other inhabitants of the foolish and wicked people 13 island, could travel to La Serenissima and to other cies employs medieval climatology in order to claim that peo- in its zone of influence, and so he did. From 1480 on- ple who live up north have a wicked nature, as compare wards we find him travelling back and forth between to people who reside in more moderate climates and he Venice and Padua – the famous university city of the Ve- ridicules the Ashkenazi custom of tashlikh , which he per- neto region – as well as to other cies in northern and ceives as supersous and irraonal. And indeed, to- central Italy. His occupaon during these years clearly wards the end of his short life Del Medigo returned to reflects his mulcultural early formaon. While in Italy, Candia. Around 1490 he wrote his last work, The Exami- a work in which he sets ,( בחינת הדת) Del Medigo served as both a translator of philosophical naon of Religion works from Hebrew into Lan and as the composer of out to demonstrate the raonal foundaon of authenc 25 Jottings

Jewish belief, as opposed to its perverted manifestaons a true son of Crete: a cosmopolitan figure and a cultural – i.e. radical myscism – as well as to other, irraonal intermediary, who at the same me was deeply aached religions, namely Chrisanity. This again exemplifies Del to his home island, to which he eventually returned and Medigo’s version of Judaism – a religion which is essen- where he was finally laid to rest. ally raonal and moderate. Del Medigo died prematurely in 1493, most likely due to Dr Michael Engel, a researcher at the Instute for Jewish a complicaon during a medical procedure. Joseph Del Philosophy and Religion at Hamburg University, studies Medigo, menoned above, wrote that his funeral was the thought of Elijah Del Medigo and of other Jewish phi- aended not only by members of the Jewish community, losophers from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. but also by members of the Chrisan elite of Candia. If the tesmony is true, it again exemplifies Del Medigo as

Jewish Museum of Greece Publicaon: Jewish and Hebrew Inscripons from Greece

On October 8, 2018 the Jewish Museum of Greece (JMG) graphical area dang from the late 4 th c. BCE unl the 15 th presented at the Archaeological Society, Athens, its new c. The geographical distribuon and division of the corpus academic publicaon, entled, “Corpus Inscriponum of Jewish and Hebrew inscripons generally follows the Judaicarum Graeciae (CIJG): Corpus of Jewish and He- current locaon of the inscripons, with the aim of facili- brew Inscripons from Mainland and Island Greece (late tang researchers and scholars. Each inscripon is ac- 4th c. BCE–15th century) ”. The compilaon of Jewish and companied, in addion to a photographic image, by an Hebrew inscripons is part of the research programs of entry, divided into individual recording fields. the Jewish Museum of Greece, which focus on the re- Aimed at the general public as well as the specialist audi- cording, study and publicaon of tangible and intangible ence of archaeologists, historians, educators, academics evidence of the archaeological and historical past of the and researchers, the publicaon serves the historical rec- Greek Jews. ord and documentaon of the long-standing presence, as The publicaon gathers all the epigraphic material of well as the distribuon of Jewish selements in the Greek Jewish interest or content located in the Greek geo- lands.

Α 0252 – Funerary plaque of Rabbi Shemaria Agapouli Malai, 1494, © Collecon of the Society of Cretan Historical Studies, Historical Museum of Crete 26 Jottings

The compleon of the research and the publicaon of the book were made possible thanks to the generous sponsorship of Ms. Aliki and Ms. Nora Benrubi as well as of Mr. Samuel (Makis) Matsas, President of the Board of Directors of the JMG, respecvely. The ulmate aim is to publish the Corpus in digital format, giving it the flexibil- ity of intangible cultural goods, while the JMG is planning to organise an exhibion of selected inscripons in the near future, in cooperaon with the Ministry of Culture. © The Jewish Museum of Greece, Athens, April 2019

We would like to thank Zanet Banou, the Director of the Jewish Museum of Greece, for kindly providing a copy of the publicaon for the Etz Hayyim library. The publicaon includes six inscripons from Crete; from the holdings of the Archaeological Museum of Irakleion, the Historical Museum of Crete and the Archaeological Museum of Kissamos. • A marble funerary stele in Greek from Kassanon, south of Irakleion, a locaon also known as Evraioi (Jews) Ε 16 – Funerary plaque of Sophia from Gortyn bearing the tles of from the 3rd or 4th century C.E. It marked the grave of archisynagogissa and presbytera, Kissamos, 4th – 5th c. CE © Ar- a one-year old child named Ioudas. chaeological Museum of Kissamos • A limestone fragment of a funerary stele in Greek from the same locaon and period which marked the grave are not included. These are recorded and analysed by of a woman named Berenike, set up by a man named Professor Nicholas de Lange in his arcle “The Inscrip- Eiosephos. ons of the Etz Hayyim Synagogue” which is published in A limestone funerary plaque in Hebrew from Irakleion • Etz Hayyim’s “The Jews of Crete” series and is available for a Rabbi Shemaria Agapouli Malai (illustraon p. from the Synagogue office. 25) dated to 1494. • A marble funerary plaque in Hebrew from Irakleion for a woman named Mano, wife of Rabbi Eliezer Masri from 1492. • A marble funerary plaque in Hebrew from Irakleion for Eliyahu, son of the rabbi David Khouli, and his daughter Anastasu, who might have been vicms of the plague in the 1480s. • The much-quoted marble funerary plaque from Kas- teli, Kissamos, from the 4th or 5th century C.E. for a Sophia from Gortyn, menoned as a presbytera and archisynagogissa (see image above). The inscripon aests to the existence of a Jewish community with a synagogue in Kissamos and suggests that Sophia either had a leading role in the synagogue administraon or as an affluent and influenal woman received certain honorific tles. While the publicaon “Corpus Inscriponum Judaicarum Graeciae” includes two photographs of Etz Hayyim before its renovaon, the inscripons in situ at the synagogue 27 Jottings

Sll available: Mobile App “Etz Hayyim and Jewish Legacy in Crete ”

Another available resource with plenty of informaon of the app was prepared by the Etz Hayyim staff. about Cretan Jewish history and the story of Etz Hayyim The app is available in English in the AppStore and on the is the mobile applicaon “Etz Hayyim and Jewish Legacy website www.greekjewishlegacy.org/hania/index.html. in Crete.” The secon “Jewish History” covers all periods of Cretan Jewish history from the Hellenisc period to the Second World War. Romaniote and Sephardi tradions are ex- plained in their specific Cretan context in the secon “Jewish Tradions.” A third secon includes the history and a virtual tour of Etz Hayyim. The app was launched in June 2016. The project was ini- ated by then Ambassador of Canada to Greece, Robert Peck. The Embassy of Canada funded the technical im- plementaon of the app by Ready Labs Inc. The content

Culture of Remembrance in Greece: A Queson of Identy?

“Remembrance and educaon are most crucial. Igno- Today he lives in Athens, has two grown-up daughters in rance is the enemy.” The Israeli Ambassador finished her Israel and the USA, is a well-known poet and travels a lot. speech on 25 October 2018 in Hania with this call for an Athena’s niece and nephew accepted on her behalf the acve and inclusive culture of remembrance. It was the honourifc tle “Righteous among the Naons” awarded day of the ceremony honouring Athena Varvataki as a by Yad Vashem during the ceremony in Hania. A local “Righteous among the Naons” for taking the risk of pre- school was responsible for the fesve programme of the tending to be the mother of Iossif Venturas during the event, which included an overview of the Shoah with pic- Nazi-occupaon of Greece in order to protect him and tures and music. Subsequently they told Iossif’s and Athe- save his life. na’s story. Speeches were given by the mayor of Hania, Iossif Ventura was born in 1938 in Hania as the second the Israeli Ambassador, a representave of the Ministry child of a relavely affluent Jewish family with Venean of Educaon, the director of the school and the bishop of roots. The Jewish community of the city numbered ap- Crete. proximately 330 people at that me. Three years later, Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Centre, Nazi Germany occupied Crete aer a 10-day bale be- is basing its work on remembrance, research, documen- tween 20 May and 1 June 1941. They immediately pro- taon and educaon. The fundament for this is the “Yad hibited the pracce of ritual Jewish slaughter of annimals Vashem Law” which was established in 1953 by the Knes- (according to Jewish religious dietary laws) and Jewish set, the Israeli parliament. Paragraph 1.9 of this law is shops had to be labelled as such with a sign. Aer the focusing on the commemoraon of “the high-minded Gestapo started to register the Jewish populaon of the Genles who risked their lives to save Jews” – the so city, the Venturas decided to leave for Athens where called “Righteous Among the Naons.” their Jewish background did not stay secret for long aer Some might interpret the numbers of “Righteous” in a all. When local collaborators began blackmailing them country in relaon to the general publicaon of that spe- the family decided to split up and go into hiding. Iossif cific country and the number of vicms of the Shoah. In went with his nanny Athena Varvataki to a friend of the Greece, 347 persons were honoured for saving Jewish family in the North of Athens, effecvely adopted her as people so far. Before the Nazi-occupaon the Jewish pop- a mother and stayed with her unl the end of the war. ulaon of Greece counted 77,000 people, most of them When the family reunited, he could no longer remember living in Thessaloniki. When the Axis Powers started occu- his real parents and had doubts about them for years. pying Greece, Athens became a place of refuge for many 28 Jottings

Jews from all over the country, as chances to survive of various consecuve democrac and dictatorial rule. By there seemed beer given the anonymity of the large city 1941, parts of it became German-occupied territory and and because the naonal resistance was well-organized by 1943 the enre country as well. there and some Greek authories helped with fake ID Immediately aer the end of the Second World War, the cards. Deportaons commenced in 1943 in Thessaloniki, Greek Civil War started between the polical le and but soon aerwards Jews were being deported from all right. The two characteriscs of a proper Greek person (in over the mainland and the islands as well. 60,000 Greek terms of naonal identy) menoned above were supple- Jews were murdered during the Holocaust. Unl today mented with the polical atude. When the Civil War the history of the Jewish populaon in Greece, as well as ended in 1949, the majority of the communists had to their systemac exterminaon during the Second World leave the country, which led to a naonalist narrave of War, are not fully part of the general collecve memory. that event dominang the collecve memory without any Especially in Greece, for linguisc and historical reasons, opposion. Subsequently, Greece idenfied as a western- the term “Holocaust” describes a spectrum of different capitalisc country and differenated itself from the USSR catastrophes and is not inially connected to the Shoah. and the communist Balkan countries. This development caused a huge lack not only of crical historical research, but also of historical reappraisal. For example: If one talked about the Second World War, the resistance movements were glorified as heroic without menoning the communist parcipaon and leading role in it. Vicms of the German occupaon apart from the “ideal” Greeks were hardly talked about – for instance the Jews of Greece. In the 1980s, the conservave government was replaced To avoid terminological confusion, one must refer to the by a leist one. For the first me the polical separaon Holocaust of the Greek Jews. Academic research in within the populaon was crically discussed and many Greece on the Holocaust began to develop in the mid- of the communists, that had le Greece aer the Civil 1990s and did not become part of the school curriculum War, returned to the country. The conservave, one- unl 2005. Insufficient, belated research on the Shoah is sided narrave was challenged by a different perspecve not a specifically Greek phenomenon but can be found in for the first me, which had a huge impact on historical the rest of the involved countries as well. Sll it is crucial research. This change started among academics but has to analyse and understand why neither academics nor also influenced public memory unl today. One could the public had dealt with that topic for such a long me. argue that the populaon’s polical fragmentaon would Generally speaking, Greek identy was and sll is built on have to be overcome at first in order to aempt an inclu- the Greek language and being Greek-Orthodox Chrisan. sive narrave and remembering culture. If a group or a person cannot idenfy with one of these The Yad Vashem ceremony in Hania was one of the first aributes they are not immediately included in the con- larger public events in Crete that created awareness of cept and confines of Greek identy and are hardly repre- the Shoah without being iniated by the Etz Hayyim Syna- sented in the mainstream narrave of the country. gogue. One could interpret this as a general increase in With the establishment of the Greek State in 1830, the the awareness of neglected narraves in Greek history, queson of its cizens’ identy came up for the first me but also as a change in the naonalist narrow percepon and became more and more relevant with the constant of Greek identy. To a certain degree the slowness of this expansion of its territory. Many of the “new” cizens process might be connected to the naonal pride of the were praccing different religions or speaking other lan- country which sll is hardly quesoned and considered as guages. This did not only cause an insecurity in the defini- posive by many. The Israeli Ambassador emphasized in on and materialisaon of naonal identy, but also a her speech that “the Jews of Greece are Greeks first and certain increase of naonalisc tendencies in order to foremost despite the fact that they pracce a different ward off challenges to the established naonal identy; religion”… an acknowledgement that there is no obligato- again, a fairly common phenomenon. Unl 1924 Greece ry connecon between Greek identy and Greek Ortho- was a monarchy and aer that faced the ups-and-downs doxy … her statement was followed by applause. First published in Gedenkdienst Zeitung No. 19/1 29 Jottings

Poetry and Prose

Human Rights Day Athens

By the Keramaikos By the Keramaikos -Burial place and city gate- On this Day of Human Rights Close to the Acropolis Someone has taken a knife Two concrete slabs And slashed at these words Dried with leaves With two jagged strokes, Under the mist-dripping trees Scrawling “Lies!” across them. With a simple inscripon Tell of the deported Jews Without bierness or blame By the Keramaikos Just an exhortaon Where the great and noble Greeks That it never happen again: Who gave their lives not to be slaves In their beauteous, sculpted graves lie.

“Remember them, their anguish And their death. “For, by remembering we honour their deaths, Do not recoil at such a horror, and we save them from dying again, in oblivion.” Do not descend into despair At man’s inhumanity to man.”

Note The words of the quoted text are taken from an inscrip- (10 December 2018) may have been the result of anoth- on wrien by Elie Wiesel for the monument to the er, more recent aack. 60,000 Greek Jews rounded up near here and sent to It seems to me that acon must be taken against the their deaths in concentraon camps. perpetrators and to restore the monument. Since being erected in 2010 the monument has been Cliff Cook repeatedly vandalized, most notably in 2014 and in De- cember 2017. What I saw on Human Rights Day 13th December 2018 and January 2019

Holocaust Memorials in Athens (Keramaikos) and Thessaloniki (on the right) 30 Jottings

Dedicated to the memory of Nicholas Stavroulakis

“The Blind ”

by Ioanna Galanaki Many centuries ago the Megarians went to Delphi and seemed to be in a dream and their eyes held the bril- asked the opinion of the Oracle as to where they should liance of a delicious intoxicaon. Even the most cynical found their new colony. The Oracle replied: “Opposite who were only interested in profit had forgoen them- the city of the blind”. The Chalcedonians, who them- selves over the last hours. “Fortune is on our side, the selves were also a Megarian colony, were considered gods have listened to us”, somebody shouted. “Here eve- “blind” because they had chosen to build their city oppo- rything will be easy, even work!” However, one of their site (rather than upon) the peninsula with the seven hills. number was an old seaman. At some point he had lost an But of course, the Chalcedonians weren’t blind at all... arm on some long journey to the ends of the earth, when an enormous fish suddenly leapt out of the sea and tore it This is what actually happened: off as easily as if it were a ripe fruit hanging on a tree. On a clear morning a Megarian ship reached the stretch Well, this sailor started talking to them: “Listen closely to of sea between the seven hills and the Asian coast. The me, Megarians, my eyes have seen many things. I have leader and his fellow selers gathered in the bows. They sailed as far as the Pillars of Hercules, to the limit of this all gazed as they rounded the point of the big peninsula world. But never have I seen such beauty! This beauty on their le, where Byzas was to found Byzanum a few belongs to the Gods. They alone must be allowed to enjoy years later. It was then that they saw the sea suddenly it. Otherwise, if we dare to take what belongs to them, transformed into a long river flanked by green hills on then great disasters will certainly come upon us.” either side. Without giving it further thought, the selers The Megarians, who deeply respected this old man with immediately dropped anchor in one of the bays of this the missing arm and considered him not just lucky to long river-like sea and disembarked to see the place from have gone to the ends of the world and to have come close up. Hills, valleys, trees, rivers with crystal-clear wa- back alive, but also believed that for some special reason ter and waterfalls, forests so dense that you could barely the gods had rescued him and sent him along with them, make your way through them. They went back to their followed his advice – in spite of the objecons, it must be ship in bewilderment. How could such a place exist and said, of some amongst them. no one be living there, some of them wondered? Most So they founded their new city, Chalcedon, on the oppo- 31 Jottings

site coast. And it didn’t worry them in the least that they were nicknamed “The blind” and that a few years later were mocked even by their fellow-Megarians who came aer them and founded Byzanum on that very same paradisal penin- sula on the other side. The old seaman with the missing arm had in the meanme died and they had bur- ied him in a spot where his tomb faced Byzas’s city. “Never mind,” said the other old men, who had now taken the place which the old sailor used to have among the Chalcedonians, “While one is alive it is beer to be facing paradise…”

First published in Greek in the literary journal ‘Planodion’- Bonsai Stories on 8 th July 2013. hps://bonsaistoriesflashficon.wordpress.com/2013/07/08/ioanna-galanaki-i-tufloi/

Credits for illustraons: © George Sfougaras, p. 30: Giali Tzami , oil on panel, 2018; p. 31: The Wisdom of Old Age, acrylic on coon, 2017. Ioanna Galanaki is compleng her PhD at Southampton University, wring about the revival of the Etz Hayyim synagogue and community in the old Venean city of Ha- nia, Crete. The (working) tle of her dissertaon is “The Etz Hayyim Synagogue, from dilapidated building to shared sa- cred site – A biography of survival.” Her project is funded by the Germanacos Foundaon. Her short story “The Blind” is dedicated to the memory of Nikos Stavroulakis who was a key figure in her research. She has published one book of po- ems, and has translated poetry from English into Greek. Short stories as well as other literary work of hers have appeared in several literary journals and newspapers including the naonal award-winning journal “to Dentro”.

(זצ״ל) Nikos Stavroulakis Reflecons on Nikos from a Former Student by Micah D. Kiel was a generous man, but not always gentle. I was wor- In August 1996 I flew from the flat plains of the central ried how this conversaon might go, but it was amazing. United States to Athens, where a brusque man with a As I have reflected over the years on what Nikos taught pipe led me through the labyrinthine streets of Athens. me, and has also now taught my own students, there This man, Nikos Stavroulakis, would be my teacher for are three things in parcular that stand out. the nest 8 weeks. He First, Nikos taught me about changed my life. the importance of comity Nikos had no paence for among people of different shallow thinking or uncuri- faiths. He was fond of an im- ous minds. He forced me age: all people of faith are and my fellow students to climbing the same mountain. examine our most cher- There are many paths to the ished views. Aer Nikos top of this mountain and we and Greece, my life has need to respect and try to un- never been the same. I derstand the individual path changed my faith and I had that each world religion offers. a new vocaonal goal to When I first learned this as a be a teacher like Nikos. 20 year old, I did not like it. I had always been taught that With some hard work and Micah Kiel (r.) with Nikos and Beznik, 2016 some good fortune, I myself Chrisanity was the only became a professor, and in 2010 I stumbled into the Etz true way to God. Nikos helped me see — and in a week- Hayyim Synagogue in Hania and renewed my friendship long trip to Istanbul to experience — the beauty of faiths with Nikos. I returned twice with my own students (26 different than my own. In their final papers, many of my of them), so that Nikos could pass on to them the wis- students wrote about Nikos’ mountain metaphor. It dom I myself had gained almost 20 years earlier. Nikos clearly impacted their religious imaginaons as much as 32 Jottings my own. and visual art. Worship of God encompasses all of our Second, Nikos taught me the importance of geng out- senses. Nikos had experiences with many different reli- side your comfort zone. He used the image from Tarot gions: Buddhism, Islam, Chrisanity, but in the end, espe- cards of “Le Pendu,” a man hanging upside down from his cially with his work at Etz Hayyim, he came back to Juda- foot. Nikos liked to hang his students upside down so ism. He knew the importance of placing one’s self within they could get a new perspecve on life and to, as he said a religious tradion and exploring the depth of that indi- to me in an email, “wake them up a bit.” He claimed he vidual faith. would always let them down gently aerward. With his throaty laugh, ever-present pipe, and twinkling Third, Nikos used a phrase when I was a student that eyes, Nikos changed those people who knew him, includ- says: “The body learns what the mind forgets.” This has ing me. This past January (2019) I returned again with become a mantra for me, even though I’m not sure exact- students to Hania. This me, Nikos was not with us. He ly what it means. I think what he meant is that a life of was greatly missed, but he lives on in his ideas and faith is not just an intellectual pursuit. Liturgies and ritu- through his presence which infuses the synagogue. als maer, such as incense, ceremonial washings, singing,

Gedenkdienst

Gedenkdienst: My Semi-annual Review

It’s weird how me was not passing by at all when I first study for me. So I decided not to connue my studies at arrived in Hania and now more than half of my year at Vienna University. I was thinking about this for a while Etz Hayyim is already over. My life here turned out way before I arrived in Hania so the thought has been there beer than I had expected it to. I found a bunch of lovely already and did not occur here. (One can guess that I friends, people to make music and arts with, made lots feel a ny lile need to explain myself here while being of trips around Crete and for the first me really enjoy surrounded by historians.) I will change my field to social the work I am doing. There are those weird moments work and social science and I am in the middle of the when I already feel sad about leaving even though it’s applicaon process right now. another five months to go. There has never been the “I Aer many discussions and membership meengs of the don’t want to go to work, please stop” feeling towards Gedenkdienst, in December 2018 it was finally decided my alarm clock and if it happens then only because of to connue sending people abroad. The next volunteer the previous evening and not because of work itself. Be- for Etz Hayyim has already been chosen and will arrive in ing at Etz Hayyim five days a week started giving me a the middle of August. No spoilers here – stay tuned! feeling of home and comfort over the last few months At first I had the feeling that leaving Vienna for a year to with lots of lovely people around. I felt challenged to live and work here is like a break from my “real” life. But queson many of my ideas especially through the inter- it turned out that being here feels more real than the acon with visitors. I love the fact that people are com- last two years in Austria did. A couple of weeks ago ing in and out of the Synagogue all the me – not only Christoph, the previous Gedenkdienst volunteer, asked visitors but friends of the place to share an office coffee me if I had the feeling that I developed my intellectual with and interesng conversaons. abilies while being here. This queson really got stuck Besides taking care of the visitors by giving guided tours in my thoughts and I have to admit that even though I and answering their quesons, in the last few months I did grow on an intellectual level, first of all I realise a have been occupied with archive work, translaons and massive change in who I am as a person – and I’m really research. Even though I really enjoy all of this, I do no grateful for that. longer have the feeling that History is the right field of Maike Heinrich 33 Jottings

Gedenkdienst: One Year Later Six months have passed by since I le last August; it is around four lectures at the university in cooperaon February 2019 and I am already sing again in Etz Hay- with the Austrian Student Council. Next semester, lec- yim’s office. Being asked to write this arcle is challeng- tures will focus on „Peace & War“. The newspaper, ing. But going into retrospecve for wring arcles is where I am most involved, gives a chance to young aca- something that I am used to by now. demics to write about their topics of research and per- The past few months have been quite excing, it was all specves on Naonal Socialism, not exclusively in Aus- about seling in and geng used to university. As was tria. There is also a group which conducts student excur- to be expected I have started studying History and life sions to former concentraon camps and Holocaust me- in Vienna turns morials. Those are guided by people who were trained out to be quite by Gedenkdienst. alright. I am Furthermore, Gedenkdienst parcipates in regular now also on the demonstraons against the current right-wing Austrian board of government. Recently, a statement has been released Gedenkdienst on the organizaon’s website stang that Gedenkdienst and chief editor is boycong all memorial ceremonies in which one of of the organiza- the governing pares, the FPÖ (Austrian Freedom Par- on’s newspa- ty), is taking an acve part in, as we do not want to per. My per- serve as a “fig leaf” for the party’s xenophobic resent- specve on ments. Gedenkdienst For me personally, it was important to connue at least has definitely a form of polical acvism in addion to university and changed as I am work. This is why I decided to connue parcipang in now more in- Gedenkdienst, as I sll firmly believe that remembering volved in the the Holocaust is essenal when it comes to reminiscing organizaon’s what xenophobia and exclusion can lead to. acvies in Aus- Christoph Steinberger Christoph at the Gedenkdienst newspaper tria itself. Even editorial board meeng though sending out the 20 vol- unteers is one of our main acvi- es there is much more to it. For example, we are organizing workshops that include topics concerning the Second World War but also on issues like sex- ism, racism and Returning from the Heritage Contact Zone partner homophobia. meeng in Budapest, Etz Hayyim’s Administrave Direc- Each semester tor, Anja Zuckmantel, made a short stop in Vienna … we organize and all our former Gedenkdieners, who now live in Vienna, got together for a reunion at Café Espresso. Title page of the Gedenkdienst newspaper 34 Jottings

From the Etz Hayyim Office Lile Projects, Correspondence and New Ideas stanni, a Shoah survivor from Hania. Fernando has also In December 2018, various works were completed to im- suggested to expand our outreach to South America. prove the fire and flood protecon for the synagogue In our correspondence , we have news from Sandra Barty building. The works very were kindly funded by the Ger- and Ken Ross, the film makers working on the documen- man Embassy in Athens. tary “The Art of Repair ” about Nikos Stavroulakis and The synagogue office has now a unique key holder for Etz Hayyim. Aer reviewing the immense footage they the keys to the numerous doors and locks on the premis- have accumulated, they have now brought on a profes- es. The key holder was handcraed by Gerry Duon. He sional fundraiser to help secure funds for post-producon has been a volunteer at Etz Hayyim for many years and and finishing. See the trailer and addional info on the joins our team every year from April through October website : www.artofrepairfilm.com. We are exploring possi- once a week to give tours to visitors. He has also le his bilies how footage from the documentary can be includ- mark at Etz Hayyim when he built the shelves in the Ezrat ed in the “Etz Hayyim on Screen” event during the cele- Nashim (Nikos Stavroulakis’ former office) and in the braon of 20th anniversary of the Rededicaon of Etz main library. Hayyim in October 2019 (see p. 10f.)

Gerry Duon (le) installing the Shortly before the editorial deadline of this edion of new key holder (above) in the Jongs , we learned about the opening on 15 April of a Etz Hayyim office. new showcase at the Jewish Museum of Greece in Ath- A new project we are considering is a colouring book ens, which is dedicated to the Jews of Crete . It includes with images from Etz Hayyim like the Rothschild Gate and photographs, wrien documents, jewelry and religious the Ehal but also liturgical items like a Menorah and a artefacts from the period between the late 19th century Yad. Short texts that will accompany the images will add and the German occupaon. More informaon in a later up to a brief introducon to Etz Hayyim and Judaism edion of Jongs . alike. While we have school classes in mind as a target group, we might also address another demand in view of the increasing popularity of colouring books for adults. We will let you know with which group the book will be more popular. For the new season, a series of notepads and notebooks with images from around the Etz Hayyim and also a series of new postcards will be available. We welcome our new volunteer Fernando Klabin from São Paulo, Brazil, who has been living in Hania since Feb- ruary. As a polyglot and translator, with family roots from Lithuania to Italy, he is a valuable addion to our team and will not only assist with guided tours for visitors … in one of the many languages he speaks, but has already started to transcribe and translate an interview in Portu- guese from USC Shoah Foundaon Archive with Fofo Kon- 35 Jottings Help us maintain Etz Hayyim and Nikos Stavroulakis’ work and legacy

and prinng are therefore very much needed and wel- come. Immediate fundraising needs In addion to the maintenance works, a large touch - screen is needed for the educaonal outreach program to make the digital map of the Hania Jewish quarter availa- In 2010, on the iniave of Nikos Stavroulakis, the Not- ble on site to vising students and tourists. For seminars for-Profit Corporaon Etz Hayyim was established in or- with students a small set of affordable tablet computers der to ensure the long-term future of Etz Hayyim Syna- would allow us to integrate digital sources in the educa- gogue as a place of “prayer, recollecon and reconcilia- onal seminars. on.” As a registered charity, Etz Hayyim relies on dona- You might even consider sponsoring the food and vet ons for implemenng its tasks and goals. costs for the synagogue cats which Nikos loved so much. Help us maintain Etz Hayyim Synagogue Ways to give … You can send donaons to the Etz Hayyim The structural maintenance of the historic building of Etz bank account at Piraeus Bank (Greece) and will receive a Hayyim is an ongoing project. Aer major renovaon donaon receipt from the Synagogue office. There is also works in Spring 2018, in a next step wooden installaons the possibility of making tax-deducble like the Ehal, Bima and doors need repair and an air- donaons in the USA (see info below). condion has to be installed to reduce humidity in the You can also make purchases by way of donaon from building. In Spring 2019, we are sll trying to raise the our special publicaons (Interfaith Calendar, Etz Hayyim necessary funds. Haggadah etc.), our collecon of Judaica (locally made Help us expand our educaonal programs Kiddush and Sarena cups, handmade kippoth etc.) or A solid educaonal program requires thorough research, books on Greek Jewish topics including Nikos development and prinng of appropriate materials and Stavroulakis’ Cookbook of the Jews of Greece . qualified staff for implementaon. Donaons supporng … and you are of course always welcome to visit Etz operang costs like staff salaries, acquision of books Hayyim and leave a donaon in the Tzedakah bole. Tax-deductible Donations in the USA Etz Hayyim also accepts tax-deducble donaons in the USA through a collecve giving account at FJC: A Foun- daon of Philanthropic Funds . Any check should be made out to FJC, with “Not-for- Profit Corporaon Etz Hayyim” in the memo line and mailed to FJC’s office at:

FJC: A Foundaon of Philanthropic Funds Bank Information for Donations 520 8th Avenue, 20th Floor New York, NY 10018 Acc. Name: Civil Not-for-Profit Corporaon Etz Hayyim IBAN: GR 9401 7163 5000 6635 1095 59315 Donors will receive a donaon receipt valid in the USA SWIFT/BIC: PIRBGRAA directly from FJC; the funds will be made available to Etz Bank: Piraeus Bank (1635), Agia Marina, Hania Hayyim Synagogue. Layout Nikos Afentakis