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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Alicia Jewett Master's Thesis
“Before the practice, mountains are mountains, during the practice, mountains are not mountains, and after the realization, mountains are mountains” – Zen Master Seigen University of Alberta Metaphor and Ecocriticism in Jon Krakauer’s Mountaineering Texts by Alicia Aulda Jewett A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Comparative Literature Office of Interdisciplinary Studies ©Alicia Aulda Jewett Fall 2012 Edmonton, Alberta Permission is hereby granted to the University of Alberta Libraries to reproduce single copies of this thesis and to lend or sell such copies for private, scholarly or scientific research purposes only. Where the thesis is converted to, or otherwise made available in digital form, the University of Alberta will advise potential users of the thesis of these terms. The author reserves all other publication and other rights in association with the copyright in the thesis and, except as herein before provided, neither the thesis nor any substantial portion thereof may be printed or otherwise reproduced in any material form whatsoever without the author's prior written permission. Abstract This study examines Jon Krakauer’s three mountaineering texts, Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, and Into Thin Air, from an ecocritical perspective for the purpose of implicating literature as a catalyst of change for the current environmental crisis. Language, as a means of understanding reality, is responsible for creating and reinforcing ethical ways of understanding our relationship with nature. Krakauer’s texts demonstrate the dangers of using metaphor to conceive nature by reconstructing the events of Chris McCandless’ journey to Alaska, his own experience climbing The Devil’s Thumb, and the 1996 disaster that occurred during his summit of Mount Everest. -
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (From Wikipedia)
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (from Wikipedia) Everest is a 2015 survival film directed by Baltasar Kormákur and written by William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy. The film stars are Jason Clarke, Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Emily Watson, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The film opened the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015, and was released theatrically on September 18, 2015. It is based on the real events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, and focuses on the survival attempts of two expedition groups, one led by Rob Hall (Jason Clarke) and the other by Scott Fischer (Jake Gyllenhaal). Survival films The survival film is a film genre in which one or more characters make an effort at physical survival. It often overlaps with other film genres. It is a subgenre of the adventure film, along with swashbuckler films (film di cappa e spada – like Zorro or Robin Hood), war films, and safari films. Survival films are darker than most other adventure films which usually focuses its storyline on a single character, usually the protagonist. The films tend to be "located primarily in a contemporary context" so film audiences are familiar with the setting, meaning the characters' activities are less romanticized. Thomas Sobchack compared the survival film to romance: "They both emphasize the heroic triumph over obstacles which threaten social order and the reaffirmation of predominant social values such as fair play and respect for merit and cooperation." [2] The author said survival films "identify and isolate a microcosm of society", such as the surviving group from the plane crash in The Flight of the Phoenix (1965) or those on the overturned ocean liner in The Poseidon Adventure (1972). -
Into Thin Air Pre-Reading Packet Name
Into Thin Air Pre-reading packet Name: VOCABULARY Define the following words: Catharsis: Commercialization: Tragedy: Hypoxia: Socialite: Foreshadowing: Incompetent: Acclimatization: Surrogate: Apprehension: Into Thin Air Individual Research Answer the following questions in YOUR OWN WORDS in complete sentences. 1: SHERPAS Who are the Sherpas? Where do they live? What are some of their tasks in relation to helping climbers on Mt. Everest? (Describe at least 4) 1. 2. 3. 4. 2: ALTITUDE Describe the following, including the symptoms of each, and list the altitudes at which they may occur: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema): HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema): 3: EQUIPMENT Research and find 4 different pieces of eQuipment used for high altitude mountain climbing. Describe what it is and how it is used. 4: MOUNT EVEREST What mountain range includes Mt. Everest? How high is Everest? In what two countries is Everest located? Who first summited Everest and in what year? What is the climate like on Mt. Everest? 5. JON KRAKAUER Describe at least 4 facts about him that pertain to mountain climbing. 1. 2. 3. 4. 1996 Everest Climb New Zealand team American team Adventure Consultant Mountain Madness ROB HALL SCOTT FISCHER team leader team leader GUIDES CLIENTS GUIDES CLIENTS Andy Harris John Krakauer Anatoli Boukreev Tim Madsen -journalist -Russian Mike Groom Doug Hansen Neal Beidleman Charlotte Fox -postal worker -USA Ang Dorje Dr. Beck Weathers Lobsang Jangbu Sandy Pittman -Sherpa -doctor -Sherpa -socialite Tensing Yasuko Namba -Sherpa -Japanese Fedex Dr. Stuart Hutchinson South African Team Taiwanese Team IAN WOODALL MAKALU Team leader Team leader . -
Read Eva Maurer's Article
The International Journal of the History of Sport ISSN: 0952-3367 (Print) 1743-9035 (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/fhsp20 Gender in Détente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974 Eva Maurer To cite this article: Eva Maurer (2020): Gender in Détente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974, The International Journal of the History of Sport, DOI: 10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 Published online: 03 Mar 2020. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 18 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=fhsp20 THE INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF THE HISTORY OF SPORT https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 Gender in Detente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974 Eva Maurer Universit€atsbibliothek Bern, Universit€at Bern, Bern, Switzerland ABSTRACT KEYWORDS In the summer of 1974, the Soviet Union first opened its borders to Soviet Union; Pamir; a large number of climbers from the west. In a special camp in the Shataeva; Elvira; women’s mountaineering; Cold War Soviet Pamir mountains, climbers from ten different Western nations, were to climb and live side by side with each other and and detente with Soviet and Polish climbers nearby. Inscribed in the context of political detente, the Pamir camp allowed for more cultural contact across the Cold War divides. It can thus be seen as a microcosm of different climbing communities, sometimes overcoming, but some- times also divided by the lines of nationality, language, political sys- tem, and last but not least by gender. -
Expedition Everest 2004 & 2005
A L G O N Q U I N C O L L E G E Small World Big Picture Expedition Everest 2004 & 2005 “A Season on Everest” Articles Published in the Ottawa Citizen 21st March 2004 – 29th June 2004 8th March 2005 – 31st May 2005 Back into thin air: Ben Webster is back on Mount Everest, determined to get his Canadian team to the top By Ron Corbett Sunday, March 21, 2004 Page: C5 (Weekly Section) The last time Ben Webster stood on the summit of Mount Everest, the new millennium had just begun. He stepped onto the roof of the world with Nazir Sabir, a climber from Pakistan, and stared at the land far below. The date was May 17, 2000. Somewhere beneath him, in a camp he could not see, were the other members of the Canadian Everest Expedition, three climbers from Quebec who would not reach the summit of the world's tallest mountain. As Webster stood briefly on the peak -- for no one stays long on that icy pinnacle -- stories were already circulating he had left the other climbers behind, so driven was he to become the first Canadian of the new millennium to reach the top of Everest. He would learn of the stories later, and they would sting. Accusation followed nasty accusation, the worst perhaps being that the other climbers had quit on him, so totalitarian had they found his leadership. When Webster descended from the mountain, he walked into a firestorm of negative publicity that bothers him to this day. At times in the ensuing four Julie Oliver, The Citizen's Weekly Shaunna Burke, a U of O doctoral student, Andrew Lock, an Australian, years he would shrug, and say simply he was the and Hector Ponce de Leon, of Mexico, will attempt a team assault on strongest of the four climbers, the only one able to Everest in May, led by Ottawa climber Ben Webster. -
Into Thin Air
Get hundreds more LitCharts at www.litcharts.com Into Thin Air the events, and argues that his behavior saved many lives, INTRODUCTION rather than endangering lives, as Krakauer alleges. There is still a vigorous debate in the mountaineering world surrounding BRIEF BIOGRAPHY OF JON KRAKAUER Boukreev and Krakauer's competing versions of the Everest Jon Krakauer grew up in Massachusetts, and later studied disaster. environmental science at Hampshire College. As a young man, he developed a passion for mountain climbing, and throughout KEY FACTS the 1970s he traveled to Alaska, Patagonia, and Mount Everest in search of difficult climbs. During these ears,y Krakauer • Full Title: Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount supported himself almost entirely as a fisherman and a Everest Disaster carpenter. Beginning in the early 1980s, however, he began • When Written: 1996-early 1997 contributing articles about mountaineering and the natural • Where Written: Massachusetts, New York City world to the magazine Outside, and by the end of the decade, he • When Published: Fall 1997 was supporting himself by writing full time. In 1996, Krakauer was involved in a major mountaineering disaster at Mount • Setting: Mount Everest Everest, in which four of his teammates died in the middle of a • Climax: The afternoon of May 10, 1996, when a snowstorm snowstorm. Krakauer would eventually publish his version of separates Krakauer from the rest of the group, eventually these events in the bestselling book Into Thin Air (1996). Since claiming six lives. the late 90s, Krakauer has published successful books on a • Point of View: First person number of topics, including the Mormon Church, the death of the marine Pat Tillman, and the life of Christopher McCandless EXTRA CREDIT (which formed the basis for the Academy Award-nominated Controversy. -
CLIMBS and EXPEDITIONS. 1984 261 out the Generous Help of the Indian Expedition on the Normal Route, Which Offered Tents, Oxygen, Food and Even Medicine
CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS. 1984 261 out the generous help of the Indian expedition on the normal route, which offered tents, oxygen, food and even medicine. Savov suffered frostbite and was evacuated from Base Camp. Valtchev healed in the Indian camps and Base Camp and suffered no serious consequences. SVETOSLAV KOLEV, Bulgarian Mountaineering Federation Everest. After the brilliant success in 1965, India waited 19 years to put a woman on top of Everest. A seasoned team during May climbed Everest by the traditional southeast ridge. On May 9, from Camp V at 27,800 feet, Phu Dorjee became the first Indian to reach the summit solo. On May 23 Miss Bachendri Pal, Dorjee Lhatoo, Sonam Palzor and Sherpa sirdar Ang Dorje made an ascent directly from the South Co1 in excellent time. (Lhatoo took under five hours.) Bachendri Pal was the first Indian woman and the fifth in the world to climb Everest. Ang Dorje was the second man to make the ascent twice without oxy- gen. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 17,700, 20,000, 21,600, 24,000 and 26,200 feet on March 16 and 24 and April 9, 15 and 29 respectively. The potential of the team was greatly marred by continuous bad luck. At the beginning, an avalanche from the Lho La claimed the life of one Sherpa and injured six others. A kitchen boy died of pulmonary edema. A group, already poised at the South Col, had to come to the help of the Bulgarian summit pair of Ivan Valtchef and Metodi Savov, who on request had been permitted to come down the southeast ridge. -
Appendix 1 Chronology of Main Events
APPENDIX 1 CHRONOLOGY OF MAIN EVENTS 384-322 B.C.E. Aristotle allegedly stated that the air on high mountains was "too thin for respiration." Cited by Robert Boyle (1660, p. 357) (Fig. 1.1) but disputed. C. 30 B.CE. Reference to the Great Headache Mountain and Little Headache Mountain in the Ch'ien Han Shu (Fig. 1.3). 354-430 St. Augustine of Hippo refers to the thinness of the air on mountains (Fig. 1.2). 399-414 Fa-hien's companion died on a mountain and "a white froth came from his mouth" (Fig. 1.5). This may be the first recorded example of high-altitude pulmonary edema. 1590 Publication by Joseph de Acosta of Historia Natural y Moral de las Indias with its account of mountain sickness (first Spanish edition) (Fig. 1.6). 1598 Anello Oliva also referred to sickness on mountains caused by the thinness of the airs. Other Spanish chroniclers such as Alonso de Ovalle made similar statements. 1604 English translation of Acosta's book The Natural/ and Moral/ Historie of the East and West Indies. 1620 Francis Bacon referred to the belief by the ancients of the rarity of the air on the summit of Mt. Olympus, and the fact that the air was not dense enough for respiration. 1628 William Harvey described the circulation of the blood in De Motu Cordis. 1638 Galileo discusses the resistance of a vacuum. 401 402 HIGH LIFE 1644 Torricelli (Fig. 1.11) invents the mercury barometer and recognizes that the mercury is supported by the weight of the atmosphere (Fig. -
Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka Z l ' A TIZENNÉGY NYOLCEZRES meghódítása * ‘ ' 4 má 1 » Ü h te - CORBIS Függőleges világom Jerzy Kukuczka olyan farkasétvágyat érzett a világ legmagasabb hegyei iránt, hogy mindössze nyolc év leforgása alatt sikerült meghódítania a Föld mind a tizen négy nyolcezer méternél magasabb hegycsúcsát. Teljesítményét még kiemelke dőbbé teszi az a mód, ahogyan ezeket a hegyeket megmászta, valamint azok a ne hézségek, melyeket az expedíciók megszervezésének érdekében le kellett küzdenie. Első nyolcezresétől, a Lhocétól eltekintve, az összes többi csúcsra vagy új útvo nalon jutott fel, vagy pedig télen - elsőként - hódította meg a hegyet; a Cső Oju esetében mindkettő igaz. Ezért aztán a Lhoce akkor még megmászatlan déli fala lett Kukuczka számára az a kihívás, mely megkérdőjelezhetetlenné tette volna ered ményeinek hosszú láncolatát. Először 1985-ben tett kísérletet a csúcs meghódítá sára, ezen az új útvonalon. 1989-ben azonban - tíz évvel azután, hogy a normál útvonalon, az Északnyugati-falon megmászta a hegyet - életét vesztette, amikor le zuhant a magasból a Déli-falról. Halálával véget ért Lengyelország és a világ egyik legerősebb, leginnovatívabb és legmegnyerőbb hegymászó egyéniségének életút ja. De mielőtt a Lhocéra indult volna, jerzy Kukuczka megírta emlékiratait. A Függőleges világom egy csendes sziléziai családos ember története, aki ugyan akkor céltudatos tervkovács is volt, és aki tojástáncot járt a lengyelországi, pakisz táni és nepáli bürokrácia útvesztőiben, aki gyárkéményeket festett, miközben a Lho- céról álmodozott, és akinek az esetek túlnyomó többségében zsonglőrködnie kel lett a szűkös valutakerettel, a szegényes élelmiszerkészlettel és a gyenge minőségű felszereléssel, csak azért, hogy elérje mindössze azt a kiinduló pontot, melyet nyu gati hegymászók magától értetődőnek tekinthettek. -
Der Magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren Bezwangen Der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary Und Der Sherpa Tensing Norgay Als Erste Den Mount Everest
Titel Der magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren bezwangen der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary und der Sherpa Tensing Norgay als Erste den Mount Everest. Seither versuchen sich Tausende Hobby-Kraxler am höchsten Berg der Erde – das Abenteuer bezahlen viele mit dem Leben. er Spuk beginnt abends zwischen tönt das leise Heulen des Windes und den weiß, dass die Musik des Everest nichts acht und neun, wenn die Sonne hellen Singsang der Sherpas. Gelegentlich Gutes verheißt: Im Eisbruch werden dann Dlängst untergegangen ist über dem rollen oberhalb des Gletschers Lawinen Pfade verschüttet, über die Bergsteiger sich Zeltdorf am Fuß des Mount Everest. Das dumpf donnernd talwärts, und ab und an ihren Weg nach oben bahnen müssen. schneeweiße Monstrum knirscht, knackt ist ein Krachen zu hören, als würden Ge- Vor drei Jahren war Brand schon einmal und poltert, als würde es erwachen. Die bäude einstürzen. Dann haben mächtige hier; damals irrte er auf der tibetischen Bergsteiger und ihre Träger aus dem Volk Séracs, haushohe Eisblöcke, ihren Halt ver- Nordseite zwei Tage orientierungslos im der Sherpas kriechen im 5400 Meter hoch loren und sind zur Seite gekippt. Schneesturm umher. Die Hand war nicht gelegenen Basislager noch tiefer in ihre Gebannt lauscht Roland Brand, 51, in mehr vor Augen zu sehen, „Whiteout“ Schlafsäcke. Die Temperatur ist auf 15 seinem Zelt dem Rumpeln des höchsten nennt sich das Phänomen. Der Schnee war Grad minus abgesackt. Berges der Welt. „Das ist die Musik des zu Eisgranulat erstarrt, und die pfeifenden Der unheimliche Lärm stammt aus dem Everest“, sagt der Bergsteiger aus dem Böen peitschten das Eis so hart auf Brands Eisbruch, einer Gletscherschlucht, die an fränkischen Uffenheim; er kennt die Körper, „dass ich da wie in einem Sand- das nepalesische Basislager grenzt. -
La Montagna È Femmina • Lino Galliani
ALPINISMO AL FEMMINILE indice LA MONTAGNA È FEMMINA Pag. 6 Marie Paradis , Monte Bianco nel 1808 - (1778 - 1839):c hissà cosa pensava Marie Paradis, cameriera in una locanda di Chamonix, quando accettò di seguire un gruppetto di guide capitanate da Jacques Balmat sul Monte Bianco….. Pag. 9 Henriette d'Angeville , Monte Bianco nel 1838 - (1794 - ????): n ell'estate 1838 una nobildonna francese di 44 anni, colta e indipendente, decide di scalare il Monte Bianco Pag. 9 Lucy Walker , Cervino nel 1871 , (1835 - 1916): è stata un'alpinista britannica, la prima donna a salire sul Cervino. Ha cominciato a salire in montagna nel 1858, quando il suo medico le raccomandò le camminate per combattere i reumatismi Pag.10 Meta Claudia Brevoort, Jingfrau – prima salita invernale nel 1871 - (1825 - 1876 ) Pag.10 Annie Smith-Peck , terza donna sul Cervino nel1894 (1850 – 1935) Pag.11 Irene Pigatti , collezionista di prime ascensioni (1859 –1937) Pag.12 Beatrice Tomasson - Parete sud di punta Penia (Marmolada con bufera)(1859 – 1947) Pag. 12 Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell, Agente segreto britannico , madre inglese dell’Iraq, per i beduini: regina del deserto, 53 ore nella bufera sul Finsteraarhorn, nel 1915 viene nominata ufficiale (1868 -1926) è stata un'archeologa, politica e scrittrice. Pag.13 Fanny Bullock Workman , prima alpinista professionista - raggiunge i 7.000 m del Pinnacle Peak (1859 -1925) Pag.16 Marie Félicie Elizabeth Marvingt , DONNA DAVVERO INCREDIDILE ED UNICA !!!! Pag.17 (1875 -1963), è stata atleta, aviatrice e giornalista, ha vinto numerosi premi per i suoi successi sportivi in molte discipline, fra le quali: nuoto, ciclismo, sport invernali, volo con mongolfiera, volo tradizionale, equitazione, ginnastica, tiro a segno e scherma.