PRESS RELEASE Barbara Cartlidge and Electrum Gallery: A Passion for Jewellery Goldsmiths’ Fair: 27 September – 9 October 2016
Goldsmiths’ Fair is delighted to present Barbara Cartlidge and Electrum Gallery: A Passion for Jewellery, an exhibition of fine jewellery by pioneering Berlin-born British entrepreneur and designer-maker Barbara Cartlidge (née Emma Feistmann, 1922). The showcase, which coincides with the launch of Cartlidge’s biography of the same title, features 18 exquisite and boundary-pushing pieces of jewellery crafted in the 60s and 70s. This special display provides a glimpse into the renowned jeweller’s creative expression and distinguished career.
Cartlidge used big stones and colour to dramatic effect. Whilst shiny surfaces, rounded forms, figuration and even movement manifest themselves in her work, silver, gold, amethyst and slices of quartz Barbara Cartlidge. Photo: Courtesy of Barbara Cartlidge count among her favourite materials. As such, Cartlidge was at the forefront of the unconventionally stylish postwar avant- Not only interested in politics but also garde. passionate about the arts and personal style, Cartlidge went on to study jewellery at A member of the Jewish elite, Cartlidge fled London’s Central School of Arts and Crafts - Nazi Germany upon finishing school at the now known as Central Saint Martins. Her big age of 16. She sought refuge in Copenhagen break, a solo exhibition at Heal’s in 1960 in 1938 and three months later relocated to attracted the attention of fashion magazines Hampstead, North London. She became Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. actively involved in the Free German League of Culture, an organisation representing Other important exhibitions at the time, anti-Nazi refugees from Germany including the Jewellery 65 group show at irrespective of religion or race. Ewan Phillips Gallery (1965) and Development of Modern Jewellery at Pace for Jewellery, by Dr Beatriz Chadour- Gallery (1969) followed. These shows not Sampson and Janice Hosegood , explores only wowed the public but were also the extraordinary life of Barbara Cartlidge, critically acclaimed, helping catapult including her 36 years at the helm of Cartlidge to the forefront of jewellery design. Electrum Gallery, until her retirement in 2007. The book, published by Arnoldsche, is Cartlidge continued showing throughout for sale at Goldsmiths’ Fair. Europe – France, Holland, Germany, Switzerland and several UK cities – into the late 70s. Her work is in important public and private collections including the V&A, London, and the Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Swiss National Museum, Zurich.
Moreover, her involvement with Ewan Phillips Gallery in the mid-60s resulted in a meeting with Ralph Turner. In 1971 Cartlidge Bangle, silver and gold, 1972. Photo: Elke Bock and Turner co-founded Electrum Gallery, the first UK gallery dedicated to international studio jewellery. Based in South Molton Street, the space quickly became one of the most prestigious and influential contemporary galleries in the world, representing established and emerging international jewellery talent. Electrum was key to placing London at the centre of the contemporary artist jewellery scene worldwide.
A Freeman of the Goldsmith’s Company, Ring, 'his master's voice', silver and gold, c1973. Photo: Elke Bock Cartlidge’s influence on subsequent generations of jewellers is clearly evident. In addition to making jewellery and opening her gallery, Cartlidge is an established author and jewellery historian, known for her jewellery books including Twentieth-Century Jewellery and Rings Through the Ages. She is also a well-respected educator, having lectured on the subject of jewellery at Sotheby’s Institute of Art and Christie’s Education. Cartlidge continues to make her home in the UK .
Barbara Cartlidge’s biography, Barbara Door Pendant, silver and 18ct gold, c1973. Cartlidge and Electrum Gallery: A Passion Photo: Elke Bock
Pendant, silver and agate, 1968. Photo: Elke Bock Pendant, silver gold and agate, 1968. Photo: Elke Bock
Earrings, silver and agate,1968. Earrings, 18ct gold and agate, c1968. Photo: Elke Bock Photo: Elke Bock
Ring, silver and 18ct, c1973. Photo: Elke Bock
Bangle, silver and amethyst, 1971. Photo: Elke Bock
Ring, silver and 18ct gold, 1974. Photo: Elke Bock
Ring, silver and blue topaz, c1973. photo: Elke Bock
Pendant, silver amethyst and green agate, c1968. Ring, silver and aquamarine, c1973. Photo: Elke Bock Photo: Elke Bock
Bracelet, silver and amethyst, c1968. Photo: Elke Bock
NOTE TO EDITORS
Goldsmiths’ Fair Week One: 27 Sept– 2 Oct 2016 Week Two: 4 – 9 Oct 2016
Opening Times 11am - 6pm (Thursdays late till 8pm) 11am - 4pm Sunday Closed Monday 3 October
Venue Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane London EC2V 6BN
Tickets Entry (valid for one week) - £15 (Advanced online - £12) Entry (valid for two weeks) - £20 (Advanced online: £17) Breakfast Talk - £10 with valid entry ticket
- Goldsmiths’ Fair exhibitors are vetted and selected from across the UK by a panel of experts assembled by the Goldsmiths’ Company, The UK’s leading patron of jewellers and silversmiths. - The first Goldsmiths’ Fair took place in 1983. - 150 exhibitors across the two weeks (115 jewellers and 35 silversmiths). - All silver and precious metal jewellery for sale at the Fair is hallmarked by one of the four UK Assay Offices. - The Goldsmiths’ Company does not take commissions from the sales at the Fair.
Building on over 30 years of success, Goldsmiths’ Fair is a unique selling exhibition of gold and silver design, traditional and cutting-edge techniques, exquisite metals and gemstones, brilliant colour and detailed craftsmanship. The Fair is the antidote to high-street humdrum, giving visitors the chance to buy original and distinctive works directly from the maker. Exhibitors are selected from across the UK by an expert panel assembled by the Goldsmiths’ Company, the UK’s leading patron of jewellers and silversmiths. Each designer-maker will unveil their latest collections, the result of months of inspiration and hard work in their independent workshops.
To download Goldsmiths’ Fair 2016 images from the Fair’s online press area, go to goldsmithsfair.co.uk/contact/press/ and enter password GF2016 For further information please contact Martin Macdonald, Communications Manager, The Goldsmiths’ Company: 020 7367 5913 / [email protected]
Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2V 6BN goldsmithsfair.co.uk
The Goldsmiths’ Company
One of the Twelve Great Livery Companies of the City of London, the Goldsmiths’ Company received its first Royal Charter in 1327. The Company’s Assay Office has been responsible since 1300 for testing the quality of precious metals.
The Company is the principal patron of modern jewellers and silversmiths, continuing to play an important role in support of the craft, funding apprenticeships and assisting with the technical training of aspiring designer-makers. 2012 saw the opening of the Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell, a state-of-the-art home for the Goldsmiths’ Institute comprising workshops, exhibition space and conference facilities. The Company supports a wide range of other charitable causes and pursues a number of educational projects with schools.
The Goldsmiths’ Company’s private collection of silver is one of the largest in the UK, comprising 8,000 items dating from 1300 to the present day. Its contemporary collections are world renowned. thegoldsmiths.co.uk
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