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LESOTHO Lsto (Le- Lesotho O H T O S E L 134 © Lonelyplanetpublications Best Waysofexploring

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LESOTHO Lsto (Le- Lesotho O H T O S E L 134 © Lonelyplanetpublications Best Waysofexploring © Lonely Planet Publications 134 lonelyplanet.com LESOTHO •• Highlights 135 to the remote Sehlabathebe National Park L e s o t h o HOW MUCH? ( p147 ) or Mt Moorosi ( p151 ). Traditional dance/cultural group One month Head northeast to Teyateyaneng US$4.50-22 ( p145 ) and Butha-Buthe ( p146 ), with a side trip to the beautiful Bokong Nature Reserve Internet US$0.10-0.20 per minute ( p146 ) or Ts’ehlanyane National Park ( p146 ). Coffee US$0.35-1.20 Then take in some of the country’s most Banana US$0.15 impressive scenery on a circuit to Mokhot- Lesotho (le-soo-too) is called Southern Africa’s ‘kingdom in the sky’ for good reason. This Genuine (wool) Basotho blanket long ( p147 ) and up to the magnificent Sani stunningly beautiful, mountainous country is nestled island-like in the middle of South Africa US$60 Top (p147 ). Return to Maseru via Thaba- and it is a fascinating travel detour from its larger neighbour. The country offers superb Tseka ( p146 ) and the Katse Dam ( p145 ), or mountain scenery in forbidding terrain, a proud traditional people, endless hiking trails, LONELY PLANET INDEX via the Mohale Dam ( p144 ) and Roma ( p144 ), before heading east to Morija ( p149 ) and LESOTHO and the chance to explore remote areas on Basotho ponies. 1L petrol $0.90 following the two-week itinerary. Note: The ‘lowland’ areas (all of which are still above 1000m) offer some craft shopping and 1L bottled water US$0.80-1 unfortunately it’s difficult to circumnavi- gate the country – the road between Seh- LESOTHO Bottle of beer US$1 dinosaur footsteps, while the highlands in the northeast and centre feature towering peaks labathebe in the east and Sehonghong in (over 3000m) and verdant valleys. Souvenir T-shirt US$4.50-9 the northeast requires a 4WD. Bag of fat cakes (fried savoury Lesotho came into being during the early 19th century, when both the difaqane (forced donuts) US$0.30 CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO migration) and Boer incursions into the hinterlands were at their height. Under the leader- Clear, cold winters, with frosts and snow (and ship of the legendary king Moshoeshoe the Great, the Basotho people sought sanctuary and unpredictable changes) in the highlands, await strategic advantage amid the forbidding terrain of the Drakensberg and Maluti Ranges. The HIGHLIGHTS you in Lesotho, so pack warm clothing. During Malealea ( p149 ) Pony trekking through summertime (late November to March), dra- small nation they forged continues to be an intriguing anomaly in a sea of modernity. the rugged interior with breathtaking matic thunderstorms are common, as are all- Getting around is reasonably easy – ordinary hire cars will get you to most places; public scenery. enveloping clouds of thick mist, and roads can Sani Top ( p147 ) Absorbing the awesome be affected by flooding rivers. Temperatures transport is extensive, albeit slow. Hiking or pony trekking from village to village are the vistas from Sani Pass and hiking the chal- at this time can rise to over 30°C in the val- best ways of exploring. lenging wilderness hikes of the northern leys, though it’s usually much cooler in the highlands. mountains, even dropping below freezing. Ts’ehlanyane National Park ( p146 ) Revelling Most of Lesotho’s rain falls between October in the splendid isolation of this stunning and April. Throughout the year, the weather park. is notoriously changeable. Off the beaten track ( p148 ) Hiking from Visits are possible at any time, with spring Semonkong in the beautiful Thaba Putsoa and autumn optimal. mountains to the Ketane Falls. HISTORY FAST FACTS ITINERARIES Lesotho was settled by Sotho peoples as late as Area: 30,355 sq km One week From Maseru ( p140 ), head south the 16th century. The Khoisan, and possibly to Morija ( p149 ) where you’ll find Morija some Nguni people, lived among them, inter- Capital: Maseru Museum & Archives, a great museum marrying and mingling their languages. Country code:%266 with Basotho culture displays. Continue The early society was made up of small chief- Famous for: Ponies, royalty, dams, Basotho to Malealea ( p149 ) or Semonkong ( p148 ) – doms. Cattle and cultivation were the econ- hats and blankets the ‘gems’ of Lesotho – to go pony trek- omy’s mainstays. Their products were traded king. You may be able to squeeze in a for iron from the northeast of South Africa. Languages: South Sotho, English trip to Quthing (Moyeni; p150 ) to check By the early 19th century white traders Money: Loti (plural maloti) out the 180-million-year-old dinosaur were on the scene, exchanging beads for cattle. Phrases: khotso (hello, or literally ‘peace’); footprints. They were soon followed by the Voortrekkers kea legoha (thank you) Two weeks Visit Teyateyaneng ( p145 ), north (Boer pioneers) and pressure on Sotho grazing Population: 2.1 million of Maseru, the craft centre of Lesotho, or lands grew. Even without white encroach- slightly further north, Bokong Nature Re- ment, Sotho society had to accept that it had serve ( p146 ). Get a taste of the mountain- expanded as far as it could and would have to ous ‘lowlands’ by heading to Morija ( p149 ), adapt to living in a finite territory. On top of Malealea (p149 ) or Semonkong ( p148 ), and this came the disaster of the difaqane (forced Quthing ( p150 ). Continue northeast on migration; see p41 ). 136 LESOTHO •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com LESOTHO •• History 137 0 50 km LESOTHO 0 30 miles Society. In return for a degree of Christia- of South Africa was created, Basotholand was To Bethlehem nisation of Sotho customs, the missionaries classified as a British Protectorate and was not (33km) LEGEND Winburg Rosendal were disposed to defend the rights of ‘their’ included in the Union. Witteberg Clarens R707 NP National Park Fouriesburg Phuthadithaba NR National Reserve Basotho against the new threat – British and FREE STATE GR Game Reserve (SOUTH AFRICA) Monantsa Pass FR Forest Reserve Boer expansion. Home Rule & Independence Caledonspoort R616 Marquard WA Wilderness Area R709 Joel's Drift Khatibe The Boers had crossed the Orange River In 1910 the advisory Basotholand National Butha-Buthe Oxbow Dinosaur 'Muela Mount-aux- in the 1830s, and by 1843 Moshoeshoe was Council was formed from members nomi- Footprints Moteng Pass To Bloemfontein R708 Subeng River (2820m) Sources (207km) Ficksburg Khabo (3282m) sufficiently concerned by their numbers to nated by the chiefs. After decades of allega- Allandale Rv Ficksburg Bridge Leribe (Hlotse) Clocolan River ally himself with the British Cape government. tions of corruption and favouritism, reforms Maputsoe Liphofung Cave t'so Peka Bridge Cultural Historical R703 Tsikoane Mothae The British Resident, installed in Basotholand in the 1940s introduced some democratic Excelsior Peka Site ama Ts'ehlanyane Pitseng NP Champagne as a condition of the treaties, decided Moshoe- processes into council appointments. Koeneng Mafika-Lisiu Castle A1 Pass (3090m) Malib Drakensberg Tweespruit (3377m) shoe was too powerful and engineered an In the mid-1950s the council requested (Caledon) River Mapoteng Bokong Ha Lejone Marseilles Teyateyaneng ὈὈὈNR unsuccessful attack on his kingdom. internal self-government from the British. LESOTHO (Orange) Motsitseng To Bloemfontein Ladybrand Seshote In 1854 the British withdrew from the area, In 1960 a new constitution was in place and Sefikeng (157km) MohokareBerea Plateau Ha Katse C Mokhotlong Upper MASERU Qiloane Hill e Sepinare Dam having fixed the boundaries of Basotholand. elections were held for a Legislative Council. n Giant's Castle Maseru Mohale t Molumong Ha Baroana r Katse Dam Bridge Thaba-Bosiu Dam a Katse The Boers pressed their claims on the land, Meanwhile, political parties had formed, LESOTHO Nazareth l Visitors Centre Thabana- Likalaneng R Upper Ntlenyana and increasing tension led to the Free State– including the Basotholand Congress Party Mazenod Molimo- a Qeme Plateau n Rafolatsane (3482m) Roma Nthuse g Senqu Hobhouse A3 Marakabei e Thaba- Basotho Wars of 1858 and 1865. After success (BCP), similar to South Africa’s African Na- Tseka Ngope Ts'oeu Makhaleng Linakeng in the first war, Moshoeshoe was forced in tional Congress (ANC), and the Basotholand A2 Matsieng Mantsonyane God Help Taung Sani Pass Morija e A5 Me Pass Mokhoabong Sani Top the second to sign away much of his western National Party (BNP), a conservative party n Senqunyane a Pass r u Ramabanta rg Jammersdrif Motsekuoa a a e o e Thaba Putsoa b Hodgson's lowlands. headed by Chief Leabua Jonathan. Wepener h t Sehonghong s Peaks k a (3096m) LESOTHO n Himeville Van Rooyens a l Makhakhe e (3257m) Moshoeshoe again called on British as- The BCP won the 1960 elections, then de- Gate P k M Pitseng Gorge Semonkong a Mafeteng Botso'ela Waterfall Matebeng r sistance in 1868, this time on the imperial manded, and won, a new constitution that D Underberg Thaba Putsoa River Matebeng Pass Pitseng Plateau Malealea Borata Ketane Maletsunyane Mavuka government in London. A high commission paved the way to full independence from Brit- R Gates of Nkonkoana Gate/ 26 Sephapo's Qaba Falls(Lebehane) Falls Paradise Pass Bushman's Nek River Paolosi adjudicated the dispute and the result was the ain in 1966. However, after the 1965 elections Gate Christ the Sehlabathebe NP Masemouse King Mission ὈὈ Mokopung R617 loss of more Basotho land. It was obvious that the BCP lost power to the BNP, and Chief Mpharane Tsoelike River Sekake Makhaleng Maletsunyane Mpiti Ramatseliso's Kingscote no treaty between Boers and Basotho would Jonathan became the first prime minister of River (Orange) Gate Mohale's Hoek KWAZULU-NATAL hold for long. Continual war between the the new Kingdom of Lesotho. During the elec- Senqu A4 Qacha's Nek Makhaleng Bridge (SOUTH AFRICA) Mafube Free State and Basotholand was not good for tion campaign the BNP promised cooperation A2 Mt Moorosi Mphaki EASTERN CAPE Mekaling Swartberg Zastron (SOUTH AFRICA) New Amalfi British interests, so the British annexed Ba- with the South African apartheid regime and Mosehle Mt Moorosi Ongeluksnek Matatiele sotholand and handed it to the Cape Colony in turn received massive support from it.
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