Examination of the Effects of the Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics on the Heating of Sewing Machine Needles

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Vedat Dal, *Mahmut Kayar, Examination of the Effects of the Physical **Engin Akçagün Properties of Woven Fabrics on the Heating of Sewing Machine Needles

Faculty of Technology, Abstract E-mail: [email protected] The elementary process of the garment production process is sewing. Sewing, the most important element determining quality and durability in garment production, is the process of *Faculty of Technical Education, getting the sewing thread through the material that will be sewn with the help of a needle, Department of Textile Education, either for the purpose of strengthening or trimming. This process is the backbone of the Marmara University, course of production. Carrying it out as desired will have an effect on utilising production Goztepe Campus Kadikoy, Istanbul Turkey resources and time spent in production more effectively and on achieving the quality level E-mail: [email protected] in the final product expected. The heat generated as a result of the needle’s friction against the surface of the textile and the properties of the fabric that affect the heating in the sewing **Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University Vocational School Apparel Production Technology Program, process of woven fabrics were examined in this study. Fabrics of seven different weights, Bomonti Campus Şişli, Istanbul Turkey densities and blends were used . An Optris CT3M Pyrometer was used in the implementa- E-mail: [email protected] tion to measure the heat on the needle. Key words: sewing machine needle, heating, woven fabric.

n Literature review has a direct effect on the quality of the item of clothing to be made of that fabric. Process of sewing Stitching efficiency is also an important The sewing process is the last step of a variable that affects the sewability of the n Introduction long serial production process. The items fabric [6]. of clothing deteriorating at this stage due The elementary process that enables the to bad stitching causes great losses of Sewing machine needles emergence of ready-made clothing and time, energy and also material. The most The process of sewing requires machine garment industries is the process of sew- important sewing mistakes are heat-re- needles, the properties, shape, measure- ing. Sewing is an invaluable process of lated and mechanical damage caused by ments and proper application of which production in industries like clothing, the sewing needle. During the process of have direct effects on the sewing quality shoemaking, home textile, automobile sewing, the fabric resists the thrust of the [5]. etc., which is why the efficiency of pro- sewing needle. The frictional resistance duction is one of the main elements af- between the sewing needle and fabric fecting production quality. It particularly The sewing needle plays an important causes heat to be released and the needle role in creating the most suitable sewing affects production quality in the ready- to overheat during high-speed sewing. made clothing industry. process. The needles help create stitches The heated needle may punch holes in by running the thread through the fabric the fabric by melting the thermoplastic Despite the increased production ca- and creating knots by holding the upper threads in the fabric and result in a weak pacity and changing textile surfaces in yarn [4]. stitch [2]. recent years and sewing machines that work at very high speeds whilst being The needle is the sewing element that Sewing is done by having the sewing able to flawlessly stitch any textile- sur ensure the completion, beauty and du- thread jabbed into the material to be face, improvements are still ongoing. rability of the stitch [5]. There are over sewed, and running it through, accord- These new sewing machines and automa- 100 different types of industrial sewing ing to the rules of thread placement in tons, with speeds varying from 2,000 to needles on the market today, being of the sewing process. The reasons for this 6,000 stitches per minute, have brought varying heights, thicknesses, shapes and process are assembly, strengthening or about an important problem, that is the points. Typical industrial sewing needles embroidering [4]. heating of the needle and consequent have fifteen parameters, among which are mistakes of different kinds, leading to a the shape of the needle, its point, number, Another definition of sewing is an as- loss of productivity and quality [1 -3]. holes etc. Each one of these parameters sembly technique using needles, threads, has an effect of varying degrees on the fabrics and machines in accordance with The goal of this study was to examine the heating of the needle [7, 8, 11]. effects of the physical properties of wo- certain methods [2]. ven fabrics on the heating of sewing ma- Heating problem of the sewing chine needles. The rest of this paper is set Turning two-dimensional fabric into machine needle out as follows: The next section provides three dimensional clothing is the basic a brief review of literature relating to the research topic of the science of ready Despite the growing automatisation of sewing machine needle and heating prob- wear. The process of sewing is one of the process, ready-made clothing pro- lem, and the third sections sets out the re- the principal factors in the creation of an duction still retains the quality of being search methods of the study. The findings item of clothing, being the result of the labour intensive, which is why there are and discussion are in the fourth section, interaction between the fabric and sew- great numbers of human-, machine- and and Conclusions are in the final section. ing thread. The sewability of the fabric process-induced problems. Failure to

Dal V, Kayar M, Akçagün E. Examination of the Effects of the Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics on the Heating of Sewing Machine Needles. 113 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014; 22, 6(108): 113-117. Table 1. Properties of fabrics used in the study. Method and test machines

Fabric Surface Fabric Linear Linear Weft Warp Properties of the fabrics used in this Fabric Raw weaving mass, g/ thickness, density, density, frequency, frequency, code material study were determined under laboratory type m2 mm tex tex threat/cm threat/cm conditions of 20 ± 2 °C temperature and B1 125 0.33 9.84 10.01 18 24 Plain 65 ± 2% humidity. Sewing studies where B2 318 1.61 26.84 12.56 18 34 100% the needle temperature is measured were D1 Cotton 211 0.33 11.81 9.52 24 40 conducted under the same laboratory D2 393 1.73 29.53 28.12 18 26 conditions. Standards used in analysing D3 Twill 169 0.29 17.24 28.57 41 34 100% D4 196 0.37 31.25 32.25 29 33 the fabric properties are as follows: TS Wool D5 228 0.38 37.03 38.46 26 32 251 – Woven Fabrics – Determination of the Mass Per Unit Length and the Mass Per Unit Area of the Woven Fabrics to determine the fabric weight, Determina- tion of the frequency of woven fabrics TS 250 – Woven Fabrics – Construction – Methods of Analysis – Determination of the Number of Threads Per Unit Length Pyrometer to determine the density of woven fabrics, TS 255 - Textile - Woven Fabrics - Construction - Methods of Analysis - 70 mm Determination of Linear Density of Yarn Removed From the Fabric to determine the number of yarns that make up the Figure 1. Focus of laser lights on the needle. fabric. An Optris CT3M Pyrometer (Op- tris GmbH, Germany) was used to deter- spot these mistakes in time may cause type, thickness and end processes of the mine the needle’s temperature. Specifica- great losses in productivity [6]. sewing thread [9, 10]. tions of the Optris CT3M Pyrometer are shown in Figure 1. The heating of the needle causes several The two primary sources of heat are the problems that affect the process of sew- area of thread crossing through the fabric Specifications of Optris CT3M ing. It is preferable to keep the needle’s and the area of knots stuck between the Pyrometer temperature below 140 °C [10]. needle and fabric. Research shows that n Miniaturised Infrared Thermometer needle heating may go up to as much as with 2.3 μm wave length range for 350 °C [10]. A high amount of heat is produced dur- measurements of metals, secondary ing the process of sewing as a result of metal processing, metal oxides and Stitching damage in woven fabrics con- the friction between the sewing machine ceramic materials sists of severed threads or melted threads needle, sewing thread and fabric. The n Very small sensing head of 14 mm di- amount of heat depends on the speed of and yarns, and is usually covered by the ameter and 28 mm length, able to fit sewing, thickness of fabric and the num- sewing yarn. The fabric is weakened in everywhere ber of the needle [2]. these areas, and can be torn apart at the seamline under pressure of being worn. n Usable up to 85 °C ambient temperature without cooling The main factors that cause the needle to Stitching damage is far more important n For measurements we used the ex- heat are: in knitted fabrics. Broken threads result changeable optics 3ML CF1 which n Speed of sewing, in skipped knots and even complete dete- enabled to obtain a measuring spot n Properties of the material to be sewn, rioration of the knitting structure. Some n Yarn tension, stitching mistakes are not recognised of 1.2 mm diameter at a distance of n Heat conductivity and specific heat of during the process of sewing and later D = 70 mm. n the material to be sewn. become apparent when stretched during For measurements of metal surfaces wearing, moving and washing [2]. with a very low start temperature of Among these, the type and number of the 50 °C n Short wave length range of 2.3 μm to needle, the end process applied to it, the n Experimental thread and fabric are secondary factors reduce the error of reading in meas- [10]. Materials urements of materials with unknown In this study, conducted to survey the emissivity Heat produced during the process of effects of sewing needle heating on the n Measurement specifications; sewing is the result of friction between physical properties of textiles,textile sur- n Temperature ranges: 50 - 400 °C the fabric and needle. The amount of faces of 100% cotton and 100% wool n Spectral ranges: 2.3 μm heat produced depends on the machine’s mixtures, plain woven and twill woven n Optical resolution: 22:1 speed, the number, section and surface of were used. A total of seven different wo- n System accuracy (at ambient tem- the needle, the density, thickness and end ven fabrics are utilised. Physical proper- perature 23 ± 5 °C): ± (0.3% of processes of the fabric, as well as on the ties of these fabrics are shown in Table 1. reading +2 °C)

114 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014, Vol. 22, 6(108) 120 85

100 80 ° C ° C 80 75 v a l u e , v a l u e , 60 Fabric B1 70 40 Fabric B2 Fabric D3 t e m p r a u t e m p r a u 20 65 Fabric D4 Fabric D5 0 N e d l

N e d l 60 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Number of sewing Number of sewing

Figure 2. Effects of weight on the needle temperature for 100% Figure 4. Effects of the weight on the Needle Temperature for 100% cotton fabrics. wool fabrics.

120 120

100 100 ° C ° C 80 80 v a l u e , v a l u e , 60 60 Fabric D1 40 40 Fabric B1 Fabric D2 t e m p r a u Fabric B2 t e m p r a u Fabric D4 20 20 Fabric D1 Fabric D5 Fabric D2 0 N e d l

N e d l 0 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Number of sewing Number of sewing

Figure 3. Effects of weaving type on needle temperature. Figure 5. Effects of fibre type on needle temperature.

n Repeatability (at ambient tempera- n Sewing needle: Nm 80 (12) for the entire surface of the needle that ture 23 ± 5 °C): ± (0.1% of reading n Seam density in 1 cm: 5 seam/cm. comes in contact with the fabric. The dis- +1°C) tance between the needle and pyrometer n Temperature resolution (digital): Determining the needle temperature was set at 70 mm (see Figure 1). 0.1 K In this study, conducted to examine the n Exposure time (90% signal: 1ms effects of the physical properties of wo- No sewing thread was used in this study n Emissivity/gain (adjustable via ven fabrics on sewing needle heating, ap- as the thread may absorb a certain amount of heat from the needle. Fabrics were cut programming keys or software): paratus was set up to determine the nee- into pieces of 20 × 100 cm, ten pieces of 0.100 – 1.100 dle temperature. n Transmissivity/gain (adjustable via each kind. The fabric pieces were kept for a day under laboratory conditions programming keys or software): The laser light of the pyrometer used to 0.100 – 1.100 before the process of sewing began. Five measure the needle temperature was fo- processes of sewing were completed with cused on the sewing needle. The emis- each kind of fabric. Two layers of the Sewing conditions sivity of the needle was taken as 0.8 for fabrics were used in the sewing process. Experimental studies were done under the thermal images due to the needle’s Approximately 100 measurements per the sewing conditions listed below: material being made of chromium. The second were completed in the measur- n Sewing machine: Juki DDL 9000A- system was set up to make 100 meas- ing study. The process of sewing a 1 m SS lock stitch machine (Japan) urements per second. Because the laser long piece of fabric took approximately n Sewing type: 302 lock stitch light was focused on the sewing needle 10 seconds. In this time-span, the pyrom- n Sewing machine motor cycle: the entire time, while the sewing machine eter recorded approximately 1,000 tem- 3500 r.p.m was working, measurements were made perature values.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014, Vol. 22, 6(108) 115 120 120 110 110 ° C ° C 100 100 90 90 v a l u e , v a l u e , 80 80 70 70 60 60 50 50 t e m p r a u t e m p r a u 40 40 30 30 20 20 N e d l N e d l 10 10 0 0 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 Fabric weight, g/m2 Fabric weight, g/m2

Figure 6. Fabric weight effect on needle temperature for cotton Figure 7. Fabric weight effect on the needle temperature for wool fabrics. fabrics.

n Findings ure 4, it was determined that the tem- Correlation between the fabric perature values rise as the fabric weight thickness and needle temperature The values obtained from the mechanism changes. When physical properties for Needle temperature values were obtained set up were transferred to a computer and fabrics D3, D4 and D5 in Table 1 are ex- from six different 100% wool and 100% analysed, then organised in a way that amined, it is observed that the thickness cotton woven fabrics which have differ- takes only maximum temperature values of the fabric and threads used change ent thickness values. Results show that into consideration. Findings gathered along with the weight of the fabric. An there is a positive high correlation be- from the analyses were interpreted in increase in the thickness of the fabric tween the temperature values of the nee- four different ways. and weft/warp threads leads to a greater dle and the fabric weight (see Figure 7) friction surface between the fabric and r = 0.923. 100% cotton fabric - two different needle in the process of sewing. It can be weight assumed that this raises the needle tem- When cotton and wool fabrics were ana- Considering sewing machine needle temperature. lysed separately results show that there perature values for fabrics of 100% cot- is an important difference between the ton and two different weights, see Fig- Twill weaving type – two different correlation values. For cotton fabrics the ure 2, it was determined that temperature fibre types correlation coefficient between the fabric values are raised along with the weight of When sewing machine needle tempera- thickness and needle temperature values the fabric. When physical properties be- ture values belonging to twill woven fab- is r = 0.938, and that for wool fabric is longing to fabrics B1 and B2 in Table 1 rics of two different kinds of fibre were r = 0.85. are examined, thickness and warp sets of studied, see Figure 5, it was observed the fabric change along with the weight. that the kind of fibre has an insignificant Increased thickness and warp sets in the effect on the needle temperature value. n Summary fabric results in a greater friction surface In this study, which examines the effects between the fabric and needle in the pro- Correlation analysis of woven fabric properties on the heat- cess of sewing. It is safe to assume that Correlation between fabric weight and ing of sewing machine needles, a total of this is the cause of the increase in needle needle temperature thirty-five sewing processes were applied temperature. In this stage the relationship between the to pieces of different types of woven fab- temperature of the needle and weight of ric of various densities, weights and fibre 100% cotton fabric - two different woven fabrics used in the experimental types. The temperature value of the nee- weaving types studies was analysed. Analyses were per- dle was measured contact-free with a py- Considering sewing machine needle tem- formed separately for cotton and woollen rometer. At the end of the measurement, perature values for fabrics of 100% cot- fabrics. only the highest values were taken into ton and of two different kinds of weav- consideration. ing (plain and twill), see Figure 3, it was Needle temperature values were obtained determined that the style of weaving has from four different 100% cotton woven At the end of the sewing processes, a cor- a small effect on the needle temperature fabrics which have different weight val- relation between the basic properties of value. As seen in Table 1, B1 and B2 are ues. Results show that there is a positive the woven fabrics and the temperature fabrics belonging to the plain weaving high correlation between the temperature of the sewing machine needle was estab- class, whereas D1 and D2 are thrill. But values of the needle and fabric weight. lished. Particularly in cotton fabrics, the the increase in weight for fabrics of both (see Figure 6) r = 0.915. increase in fabric weight, followed by kinds of weaving is accompanied by an changes in other basic properties (den- increase in the needle temperature. Needle temperature values were obtained sity, thickness etc.), leads to an increased from three different 100% wool woven needle temperature. The results obtained 100% wool fabric – three different fabrics which have different weight val- can be summarised as follows; weights ues. Results show that there is a positive n Regarding sewing machine needle Regarding sewing machine needle tem- high correlation between the temperature temperature values for fabrics of 100% perature values for fabrics of 100% wool values of the needle and the fabric weight cotton and two different weights, it and of three different weights, see Fig- (see Figure 7) r = 0.914. was determined that temperature val-

116 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014, Vol. 22, 6(108) ues rise along with the weight of the References 7. Li Q, Liasi E, Simon D, Du R. A Study on fabric. the Needle Heating in Heavy Industrial n Considering sewing machine nee- 1. Mazari A, Havelka A, Mazari FB. Nee- Sewing : Part 1:Analytical models. Inter- dle temperature values for fabrics of dle Eye Temperature Measurement At national Journal of Clothing Science and 100% cotton and two different kinds Different Speeds Of Sewing. In: Inter- Technology 2001;13, 2: 87-105. of weave (plain and twill), it was de- national Conference on Engineering & 8. Li Q, Liasi E, Simon D, Du R. A Study on termined that the weave type has a Technology, New Cairo City, October the Needle Heating in Heavy Industrial small effect on the needle temperature 10-11, 2012, Egypt. Sewing: Part 2: Finite Element Analysis value. 2. Kalaoğlu F. The Investigation of the ef- and Experiment Verification. Interna- n When sewing machine needle tem- fects of material characteristics on frictional Journal of Clothing Science and perature values for fabrics of 100% tional heat during sewing. PhD Thesis, Technology 2001; 13, 5: 351-367. wool and three different weights were Istanbul Technical University, Institute of 9. Mandal S, Abraham N. An Overview of studied, it was determined that the Pure and Applied Sciences, pp.22, Is- Sewing Threads Mechanical Properties temperature values rise as the fabric tanbul, Turkey, 1992. on Seam Quality. Pakistan Textile Jour- weight changes. 3. Mazari A, Havelka A. Tensile Properties nal 2010; 1; 40-43. n When sewing machine needle temper- of Sewing Thread and Sewing Needle 10. Gürarda A, Kaplangiray B, Kanık M. Ef- ature values belonging to twill woven Temperature at Different Speed of Sew- fects of Lubrication Operation on Sew- fabrics of two different kinds of fibre ing Machine. Advanced Material Re- ing Threads Properties and Sewing Per- were studied, it was observed that the search 2013;627: 456-460. formance. The Journal of Textiles and kind of fibre has an insignificant effect 4. Commission: Machine Science. Ed. Na- Engineer 2011; 18, 82; 19-25. on the needle temperature value. tional Education Printing House, Ankara, 11. Zouharová J. Influence of Surface Treat- n The needle temperature increases as Turkey, 1999. ments Mechanical Sewing Needles on the fabric gets thicker, because during 5. Commission: Basic Sewing Machines. Quality of the Stitches. In: METAL 2007 th the sewing process the needle punches Ed. National Education Printing House, - 16 International Metallurgical & Mate- rial Conference. Hradec nad Moravicí, through and withdraws from the fab- Ankara, Turkey, 2008. Czech Republic, May 22-24 2007. ric. Hence the thicker the fabric is the 6. Yücel Ö. Effect of Sewing Thread and more needle friction occurs, and this Fabric Properties on Sewing Efficiency. results in an increase in needle heating. Journal of Science and Engineering 2007;10, 1: 36-41. Received 29.10.2013 Reviewed 04.04.2014

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