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Sewing Needle Temperature and Fabric Bending Property Correlation

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Sewing Needle Temperature and Fabric Bending Property Correlation Sewing Needle Temperature and Fabric Bending Property Correlation B.A. Muralidhar Department of Textile Technology, A C Tech. Campus, Anna University, Chennai, India Key words: Sewing needle, needle heat, fabric bending Abstract: Sewing needle temperature is one of the main properties, seams, sewing machine problems during sewing of thermoplastic materials. The needle temperatures can cause fabric and sewing thread damage. Many studies have been carried out to understand the parameters which influence needle temperature. Understanding these parameters will help in minimizing the problem of needle heating. Needle heat is influenced by needle, fabric characteristics and the sewing conditions. In this project an attempt has been made to correlate the bending modulus of three different construction 100% cotton fabrics of the same GSM with varying thickness. The fabrics were sewn in the sewing machine at a constant speed of 3500 rpm without sewing Corresponding Author: thread in 3 different seams. The needle temperature was B.A. Muralidhar recorded with the help of an infrared pyrometer at time Department of Textile Technology, A C Tech. Campus, intervals of 30 sec for 5 min. The highest sewing needle Anna University, Chennai, India temperature recorded was for the fabric with highest bending modulus among the three samples. Correlation Page No.: 194-199 between the fabric bending modulus and sewing needle Volume: 16, Issue 06, 2021 temperature was calculated using MINITAB v.16.1. The ISSN: 1816-949x correlation result obtained was positive and linear thus Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences indicating that the bending modulus of the fabric effect Copy Right: Medwell Publications the needle temperature. INTRODUCTION materials such as synthetic fabrics, synthetic blends, cotton, leather, duck, canvas and other materials of higher High speed industrial sewing machines working areal weight the problem becomes more acute. The needle above the speed of about 5000 rpm have long been used heat often exceeded the glass transition temperature of in apparel, leather, shoe, carpet tufting, needle punching, many synthetic fabrics and causes melts, melted residue stitch bonding and many other industries[1]. It has been and weakened seams. While natural materials such as observed that the friction between the fabric surface and cotton, wool and its blend would scorch or burn leading the needle generates excessive heat which are influenced to sewing defects such as; thread breaks, skipped stitches, by a number of parameters such as weave, type of fibre, fabric damage, seam damage, skipped stitch, needle fabric thickness, finish, needle size, shape, surface breakage and other quality issues in readymade garment coating, sewing speed and the interrelationships of these manufacturing[2, 3]. Further, the materials that are sewn and other factors[2]. Studies have shown that the problem range from a simple single ply to more complex multiple of needle heating can affect fabric and garment ply seam configuration. The high needle temperature can performance. With the usage of different types of weaken the sewing thread, since, its strength is a 194 J. Eng. Applied Sci., 16 (06): 194-199, 2021 function of temperature and cause, thread breaks resulting because the sewing thread would act as an absorber. in intermittent stoppage for rethreading which is time Howard and Parsons[3] have described an experimental consuming. The heated needle can lead to unwanted method to determine the needle temperature by infrared crease formation in the sewing thread because of which flux and have discussed variables influencing needle the loop formed by the sewing thread is improperly temperature such as, emissivity, frequency, geometrical shaped and the hook misses the loop, resulting in skipped view and signal shapes. They have observed that the stitches and all these are severe quality issues leading to needle heat depended on the surface thermal properties of higher percentage of rejects. The needle heat can also the needle and the cloth. Also a steady state condition was temper the needle and weaken it, so it may bend or fail by reached when the amount of heat generated by friction breaking easily. Decreasing the sewing speed can cool the exactly equals the amount of heat lost by the needle. needle but it will decrease the operator’s other handling Needle temperature was observed to be cyclic, increasing activities; hence the sewing productivity is doubly immediately after passing through the cloth and decreased. decreasing while exposed to the air. In another study by The needle temperature depending on sewing Khan et al.[6] the authors have observed that fabric conditions ranges from 100-300°C, part of which is parameters are one of the important parameters absorbed by fabric along the stitches, some of the heat is influencing needle heat. However, the study does not lost to radiation but most of the heat is accumulated in the detail into the specific fabric properties that directly needle as it penetrates and withdraws periodically. influence the needle temperature. Sewing industries have adopted many methods to reduce Thus, we can say that needle heating is a function the magnitude of needle heating problem by using surface which is influenced by fabric, needle and sewing finished needles, lubricants, cooling air streams and parameters. Among fabric parameters, fabric structure and special shaped needles with limited success[4, 5]. Needle fabric weight offer resistance to needle penetration. heat is lost by conduction, convection and radiation, the Among the needle parameters, needle finish has the outer surface of the needle that is not in contact with the greatest influence on the needle heat and then comes fabric loose heat by convection and within the needle the needle diameter. Among sewing parameters, sewing conduction of temperature from higher gradient points to speed influences the peak temperature attained in the lower temperature points occurs, further a small amount needle. Sewing thread acts as a heat sink and therefore of heat is also lost from needle to the environment by way absorbs heat. Moreover, fabric handle, aesthetics and end of radiation[5]. use applications largely depends on their bending In this study, a study is carried out on woven fabric behaviour[7, 8]. Fabric stiffness which is characterised by bending property along with the needle heating the bending rigidity and bending modulus is a parameter temperature during the sewing operation. Woven fabrics that does not take the fabric content and construction into are produced by interlacements of two sets of yarn called consideration. It does not focus on the micro properties warp yarn and weft yarn. By varying the interlacements such as the fibre characteristics and takes only fabric different designs like plain, twill, sateen etc are produced. weight and thickness into consideration. Thus, bending The variations in interlacements influence the mechanical property can be taken as a parameter to compare many properties of the woven fabric structures[6]. Even though different fabrics without going into the finer details of the the typical sewing machine is made of hundreds of parts, fabric, such as its composition, weave, finish, etc. As such only few parts come in contact with the fabric. The needle the objective of this study is to elucidate correlation is the only part that goes in and out of the fabric. Clearly, between the bending stiffness of the fabric and the sewing understanding the needle-fabric interactions, optimizing needle temperature developed during sewing. sewing operations, minimizing the penetrating force and the peak temperature can result in significant economic MATERIALS AND METHODS benefit for the apparel industry. Many efforts have been taken to analyze the needle Fabrics used for study: All the fabric test specimen, heating problems, Frederick et al.[1] in their study on have been tested in a standard testing atmosphere of blends of nylon and wool have observed that the use of 65±2% relative humidity and temperature of 27±°C. sewing finishes on fabrics can effectively reduce needle Since, the study requires fabric in different bending temperature preventing needle encrustation and nylon stiffness, three different fabric constructions in 100% melts. Studies carried out by Galuszynski[2] on the effect cotton sized with native starch were developed, so that of fabric structure on needle piercing have shown that they had the same areal weight of about 170 GSM. The there is a definite correlation between fabric resistance to linear density of warp yarn was 30S English cotton (Ne) needle piercing and the product of fabric tightness and and the weft densities were wide-ranging as 20S, 30S and fabric mass. The penetration force was found to be higher 40SNe, so as to vary the thickness of the fabric which without the sewing thread and lessen with sewing thread will in turn give us three different fabric samples with 195 J. Eng. Applied Sci., 16 (06): 194-199, 2021 Table 1: Construction details of fabric specimens Test specimens Warp count (Ne) Weft count (Ne) Weave type Ends/inch (EPI) Picks/inch (PPI) Grams/Meter2 (GSM) Sample 1 30 30 2/1 Twill 124 66 170 Sample 2 30 40 2/1 Twill 124 88 170 Sample 3 30 20 2/1 Twill 124 46 170 different stiffness values. This selection helps us to compare the bending values of the fabric, while all other fabric parameters were kept constant. All the fabrics were developed in one weaving machine settings, the weave SSa SSc SSp pattern was 2/1 Twill. The samples are listed as sample 1, 2 and 3 throughout. The fabric construction details are Fig. 1: Super imposed seam configurations SSa, SSc and given in Table 1. Three different variations of SSp superimposed seam types with increasing number of fabric layers such as SSa (2-ply), SSc (4-ply) and SSp applied on the warp yarns during weaving. The mineral (6-ply) were used in this study.
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