Leah Garchik: How do I really love you? E6

DatebookSan Francisco Chronicle and SFGate.com | Thursday, September 15, 2011 | Section E

David Gray / The CW Cassie (Britt Robertson) loses her mom in a witch-sparked fire and goes to Chance Harbor. DAVID WIEGAND Television Cackling at these witches It may seem ridiculous to complain that “The Secret Circle,” Kevin Williamson’s new teen- witch show on the CW, isn’t very believable, especially considering

The Secret Circle: Dramatic series, 9 Photos by David Paul Morris / Special to The Chronicle L tonight on the CW. Sausan Molthen, owner and chef of Al-Masri, performs a belly dance routine during her birthday party celebration at the restaurant.

that Williamson is also RESTAURANTS the creator of the net- work’s enduringly addic- tive “The Vampire Dia- ries.” Dancing among cultures But there are moments in “The Secret Circle,” premiering at 9 tonight, Egyptian place lets patrons when you’re likely to fall into mini fits of giggling learn cuisine, as owner has at the show’s implausibil- ity. By Lisa Wallace In addition to the vam- CHRONICLE STAFF WRITER pire thing, Williamson was also the guy behind Sausan Molthen, owner of Al-Masri the soapy teen drama “Dawson’s Creek,” which Egyptian restaurant in San Francisco, may explain at least part might be described as a of the genesis for “Circle.” Inside: The Inside Scoop, woman as eclectic as her Basically, what he’s done plus restau- restaurant. is to take the hormone- fueled teenage angst of rant reviews To describe Molthen’s E2, E6 “Creek” and pump it into profession is to list the pas- a story about a secret Sunday: A circle of young witches guide to mak- sions of a Bay Area individ- ing the most ualist. Molthen, 57, is exec- and warlocks in the im- probably named town of of your skillet utive chef at Al-Masri, a Food & WIne Molthen seasons her Egyptian stuffed chicken dish before placing it in Chance Harbor, Wash. belly dancing teacher and a the oven at her restaurant, in San Francisco’s Richmond District. The formula still works baker, supplying syrupy fine for “Diaries,” which, pans of baklava to cafes like Brown Owl District, the storefront, out- is unapologetically garish. not coincidentally, fitted with rainbow stripes, a Sitting in its equally opulent launches its new season Coffee Shop. bright blue awning and larger- interior, Molthen recounts the just before the premiere Al-Masri is also one of a kind. Located than-life murals of ancient restaurant’s history through a of “Circle,” but it doesn’t in a residential section of the Richmond Egyptians guarding its doors, Al-Masri continues on E3 quite work here. Is it just because, with film and Circle continues on E6

OPERA REVIEW ‘Idomeneo’ mines ancient Crete to open Opera San Jose season

By Joshua Kosman Idomeneo: Opera San which the opera’s princi- CHRONICLE MUSIC CRITIC Jose. Through Sept. 25. pal drama — the story of California Theatre, 345 S. how an ill-considered Mozart’s “Idomeneo,” First St., San Jose. $51- vow of human sacrifice the first fruit of the $101. (408) 437-4450. can conflict with the young composer’s oper- www.operasj.org. most elemental family atic maturity, is set in ties — plays out against ancient Crete, in the a backdrop of elaborate- aftermath of the Trojan opens the season for ly crafted sets and cos- War. That doesn’t mean Opera San Jose takes its tumes inspired by the it needs to be presented cues from the world of Mycenaean period. in period style — but, on archaeology, with an The result, in Tues- the other hand, why assist from the scholars day’s performance at the not? at the Packard Human- California Theatre, was a P. Kirk The beautiful and ities Institute. stretch of elegant pag- Tenor Christopher Bengochea in the title role fared best in the climactic declara- stately production that It presents a world in “Idomeneo” continues on E6 tions of Act 2 in Mozart’s “Idomeneo,” which opened Opera San Jose’s season. E6 | Thursday, September 15, 2011 | San Francisco Chronicle and SFGate.com DATEBOOK

LEAH GARCHIK groceries and was “axed from ‘Top Chef years, will do it Saturday at Freight and All Stars’ ” for chicken feet that were Salvage. This time, he’ll be filmed by Pete deemed “inedible,” says she is “looking at Slauson for a DVD to be released in De- Personal declaration Napa Valley for a spot … a temporary cember. concept.” If Walmart isinvolved, says the on the sidewalk local site, “we’re not sure how that would *** go out here.” 1 Stuck in southbound 1 At a kids’ soccer game in PUBLIC EAVESDROPPING traffic in the middle of the Expression of despair after breakup of P.S.: Albee and friend Alex Mark- San Carlos, Pat Ivester says Golden Gate Bridge, Paul relationship? Confirmation of long-lasting with’s itinerary included a visit to the San one Baby Boomer dad wore “I’m disappointed by “The Lobster” Wells saw a devotion and affection? Make-up offer? Francisco Museum of Modern Art to see a sweatshirt with “a slight our motivation this fellow motorist nip out of The graffiti “I still love you” scrawled on a the Stein collection on its last day, and a alteration … ‘Old Navel.’ ” year. Last year you his car, jump the fence, duck square of sidewalk concrete in the Haight- visit to the David Ireland house on Capp And as to Peter Fimrite’s into the portable potty there Ashbury raises many possibilities: Street with gallerist Paule Anglim. report of the many blue were my inspiration for workers, emerge, jump 1 “I still love you” (although everybody whales that feed along the for failure.” the fence again, get back into else thinks you’re a jerk). *** California coast, Randy his car and complete the Teenage boy to teenage boy, 1 “I still love you” (but frankly, Scarlett, it Central City Extra reports that a coalition Alfred wonders if that journey. Wells was so of groups, the Alliance to Save Lives, wants overheard on the ain’t worth it). makes us “the berth of the 1-California by Jessica Leavitt stunned, he didn’t notice San Francisco to be the first city in the coun- 1 blues.” whether other drivers hit “I still love you” (and as I explained to try with safe injection sites — clean needs, the cops, I am not a stalker). 1 Downstairs in the lobby of their horns at this sight. hygienic surroundings — for drug users. “The guy was quick,” he notes. 1 the Sir Frances Drake, there’s a new larg- “I still love you” (even if I came home Former Tenderloin police Capt. Gary Jime- 1 from Burning Man with someone else). er-than-life statue of doorman Tom And in the backseat of a casual carpool to nez and District Attorney George Gascon Sweeney. San Francisco from the East Bay on Wed- are among supporters. *** 1 Having read that the Postal Service has nesday, Kathleen Dinetz was listening as Gascon told the Extra that “safe, clean driver and front-seat passenger discussed In celebration of its 20th anniversary, sites for injection are preferable to unsafe taken away many street-corner mailboxes, the Aurora Theatre is presenting Edward Ken Maley noticed a postal truck parked their adventures at Burning Man. “I haven’t behavior that impacts the community and showered today,” said one woman to the Albee’s “A Delicate Balance,” and the the user. I support the identification of at 2:30 p.m. the other day at MacArthur playwright himself was here last week for Avenue and Franklin Street in Fort Ma- other. “I want to keep the dust close just one appropriate sites for the safety of the user more day.” opening night, as well as festivities at and the community.” son. There’s heretofore been a regular Arion Press, which published a new edi- pickup at that time on that corner. The tion of the play. *** truck was double-parked, as usual, he Open for business at (415) 777-8426 or e-mail said, “but that driver was standing [email protected], tweets Albee’s remarks were music to the ears 1 The Eater.com sister blogs, in San Fran- of the Bay Area theater gang: “American scratching his head, as there was no lon- @leahgarchik. cisco and Dallas, report that Fort Worth ger a box there.” theater, intelligent theater, is alive and well chef Casey Thompson, who’s a spokes- 1 in the regional houses like Aurora, not woman for Walmart’s Sam’s Club bulk Country Joe McDonald, who’s done a Broadway.” “Tribute to Woody Guthrie” show for 10 JON CARROLL will return.

UPDATE By Michael Bauer DEAR ABBY By Jeanne Phillips Miss Pearl’s has changed emphasis Niece tells kids to break rule When it opened in 2008 at Jack London Square in Miss Pearl’s Jam good as the fire-roasted half Oakland, Miss Pearl’s Jam House tried to reproduce House chicken ($21), even though I they don’t like was surprised when it came the Caribbean and Island-style cuisine that made it 1 Broadway (at the Embarcade- gooey from a lightly spiced Dear Abby: I go to movies with famous when it opened in 1988 alongside the Phoenix ro), Oakland; (510) 944-7171 or sauce and served with yellow my niece “Connie” and her two Hotel in San Francisco. That space is now Chambers misspearlsjamhouse.com. wax beans, set on Cajun red kids. Though the theater has a Eat+Drink, which I reviewed in Sunday’s Food & Breakfast 7-10 a.m. Monday- rice. sign “No Outside Food or Drinks Friday; brunch 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat- I almost skipped dessert Allowed,” Connie sneaks snacks Wine section. urday-Sunday; lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 because it took so long for the in, then doles them out after the Noted designer Michael I’d like to report that the p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-10 waiter to appear and take the lights go down. I agree with my Brennan did his part by creat- food does the South proud, p.m. Monday-Thursday and until order, but I stuck around for niece that the price of refresh- ing a tropical environment but between the alternating 11 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Full bar. the bourbon chocolate bread ments is outrageous, I also be- Reservations and credit cards with lots of shells and weath- attentive and forgetful service pudding ($8). It was soggy but lieve it’s the theater operators’ accepted. Paid lots. ered wood in the 280-seat and the missteps in execution, topped with an exceptional prerogative to set prices and space, which includes an out- I’d have to say that’s not nec- Overall 6½ butter pecan ice cream, and policy. When I offered to pay, she door patio, bar and private essarily the case. Food 6½ there was a much more satis- said it wasn’t about the money, it dining rooms. The Southern sweet potato Service 6 fying nectarine and berry was “the principle,’’ and besides, Chip Conley, who owns the soup ($4/$7) was so thick you crisp ($8). “everybody else does it.” Phoenix Hotel and manages a could literally eat it with a Atmosphere 666 It turned out to be the con- I feel my niece is teaching her dozen other properties, in- fork, and was so weighted Prices $$$ clusion of a meal that, if I kids it’s OK to break rules you cluding the hotel above Cham- with raw spices that any trace Noise Rating AAAA didn’t recognize the tropical- find inconvenient as long as you bers, even brought back Miss of the star ingredient was inspired decor, would have can get away with it. I’d love your Pearl’s original chef, Joey Alt- snuffed out. The black-eyed seemed like a totally different opinion. man, as a consultant. pea salad ($7), with “summer ($12) tasted suspiciously like restaurant than what I experi- Paying for My Popcorn in Oregon However, in the past three vegetables” that turned out to the frozen ones I’ve found at enced a few years ago. Dear Paying: Here it is: Your years, the food has changed; be a few kernels of corn, was Costco, and the garlic and thinking is spot on. Your niece’s under chef Eddie Blyden, it’s in a Sherry pomegranate vin- herb butter sauce was more Michael Bauer is The Chronicle’s behavior is dishonest, and chil- now Southern, with heavy aigrette that tasted like some- like a thick cream surrounded restaurant critic. E-mail him at dren model their behavior on the leanings to New Orleans. Gone thing you’d find in a deli case by herb oil; it was OK, but [email protected], and go example set by their parents. is the jerk and ginger; now at a chain supermarket and seemed like a loose interpreta- to sfgate.com/food to read his Theater owners earn a large there’s seafood jambalaya ($21), was surrounded by tough, tion of what I found in New previous reviews. Find his blog portion of their profits not from smoke barbecued ribs with partly wilted greens. Orleans, and not nearly as daily at insidescoopsf.com, and ticket sales, but from their con- Creole potato salad ($21), and The shrimp in the New good. follow him on Twitter at cession stands. I am often struck red beans and rice ($12/$19). Orleans barbecued shrimp I wish more dishes were as @michaelbauer1. by the amount of food I see pur- chased before people enter a theater — large tubs of popcorn, king-size candy bars, bucket- size soft drinks and nachos. ‘Idomeneo’ a fitting Grecian tribute Connie should feed them a healthy meal before the movie so “Idomeneo” from page E1 cos and generic tunics, this trolled fury, exploding at last in they won’t be hungry. “Idomeneo” was bedecked with the jagged, emotionally fraught eantry, not always particularly colorful mosaics and carefully vocal display of her final aria, Dear Abby: After six years of animated but vividly colorful styled costumes, and director “D’Oreste, d’Ajace.” marriage I am seven months and done with a keen sense of Brad Dalton moved his per- Tenor Christopher Bengo- pregnant. I never wanted children Mozartean style. formers through with deft effi- chea sang the title role in a and did not expect this to happen. That latter quality came ciency (Dennis Nahat’s chore- manner better suited for the I feel nothing for this baby and I courtesy of conductor George ography was in a more familiar Romantic repertoire, unleash- also hate being pregnant. I men- Cleve, who led the performance operatic style). Even without ing a large and not always dis- tioned my feelings to my husband with a combination of assid- specific knowledge of the ar- ciplined sound. He fared best in and he became furious with me. Is uous care and theatrical pa- chaeology involved, the effect the climactic declarations of Act there something wrong with me? nache. The orchestral playing was exciting. 2, delivered with force and Lacks the Mothering Gene was streamlined and shapely The star of Tuesday’s perfor- resolution; the final aria, “Tor- Dear Lacks: There’s nothing throughout, and a crisp rhyth- mance (like all of the company’s na la pace,” sounded strained. “wrong” with you. You’re just mic style predominated. offerings, “Idomeneo” is double Tenor Aaron Blake gave an not particularly maternal. I’m Still, the evening’s most cast) was soprano Rebecca energetic if not especially sure many women have felt as striking aspect was the physical Davis, who gave a magnificent sweet-toned performance as you do because more than half production, with sets by Steven performance as the captive — Idomeneo’s son Idamante, and the pregnancies in the United C. Kemp, costumes by Johann and love-struck — Trojan prin- there were capable contribu- States are “unplanned.” Stegmeir and lighting by Chris- cess Ilia. Singing with vigor tions from Nova Safo (Arbace), Discuss this with your obste- topher Ostrom. “Idomeneo,” and precision, she gave voice to Mathew Edwardsen (the High trician to be sure you’re not suf- like countless operas before the character’s emotional tur- Priest) and Silas Elash (the fering from pre-partum depres- and since, takes its inspiration moil without stinting at all on Celestial Voice). The chorus, led P. Kirk sion. from Greek antiquity, but pro- the dynamism and grace of by Andrew Whitfield, sounded Soprano Rebecca Davis gave a ductions that follow suit in a Mozart’s writing. particularly strong. magnificent performance as Write to Dear Abby at P.O. Box conscientious way are much As Elettra, her rival in love, the captive — and love-struck 69440, Los Angeles, CA 90069 or rarer. soprano Christina Major gave a E-mail Joshua Kosman at — Trojan princess Ilia in dearabby.com. So instead of stylized porti- performance of deftly con- [email protected]. Opera San Jose’s “Idomeneo.” Universal Press Syndicate

in flames and thunderstorms Chamberlain (Phoebe Tonkin); and Cub Scouts of a now-broken bad — witness MTV’s “Teen They make descend out of nowhere? the Good Girl, Diana (Shelley secret circle of grown-up witch- Wolf,” which found the prettiest Nope. It isn’t. Hennig); the Cute Boy Who’s In es, half of whom died in some teenagers in Hollywood and gave credibility It’s about believable plot, Love With the Good Girl but mysterious way years before, them a compelling story, credible depth of writing and knowing Who’s Hot to Lock Lips With leaving all the kids to be raised in plot twists and adequate dia- enough to stay away from over- Cassie, Adam (Thomas Dekker); single-witch households. By the logue to speak. disappear used “types” instead of credible the Mean Girl’s Somewhat Less way, for some odd reason, the None of this is likely to matter characters. Mean Sidekick, Melissa (Jessica sons of witches (I just wanted to to anyone over 17, because “Cir- Circle from page E1 The premise of the show is Parker Kennedy); and the Cute write that, sorry) are not called cle” is aimed at a teenage audi- that pretty blond Cassie (Britt But Nerdy Other Guy, Nick (Lou- warlocks here. ence. At least, I hope it is, be- TV awash with vampires, we Robertson) loses her mom in a is Hunter). Among the grown- As in so many films and TV cause if the CW thinks the show find it easier to suspend disbelief witch-sparked fire and repairs to ups, Natasha Henstridge plays shows in this genre, the super- will be a hit with adults, the in long-toothed blood suckers Chance Harbor to live with her the school principal and Gale natural stuff is somewhat sec- network must be run by chimps. than we do in a bunch of high grandmother. On her first day at Harold is a witch dad. ondary to impossibly attractive schoolers who can make drops of a new school, she encounters, in Turns out that all of these kids teenagers in love and lust. That E-mail David Wiegand at water hover in mid-air, cars erupt short order, the Mean Girl, Faye are basically the Campfire Girls alone doesn’t mean it has to be [email protected].