Associate of www.cruiseplanners.com ST JOHN'S, NF OVERVIEW Introduction St. John's is the oldest city in Canada and one of the oldest cities in North America, but it can seem surprisingly young. Its roots date back almost five centuries, yet it boasts an eclectic blend of architectural styles and a modern, energetic atmosphere. Built around its harbor—a natural fortress that drew both naval commanders and the fishing industry—St. John's has evolved from a fishing station to a thriving port city with an exciting blend of interests. A glance around St. John's Harbour will show you the city's strengths: trans-Atlantic cruise ships and small tour boats, docked fishing boats and long-liners, and loaded supply ships that work in the offshore oil industry. From the harbor, you can see the glass and steel of office buildings, which are adjacent to the brick-walled buildings that house trendy shops, bustling cafes and restaurants. You can also see some of the most historic churches in Canada, as well as cultural attractions including The Rooms —a complex that towers over the city's skyline, bringing together the provincial museum, art gallery and archives. Visitors will find great entertainment districts in the city's streets and such outdoor attractions as amazing wildlife and icebergs that drift by the rugged coastline. Just outside the city, you can explore the rest of the province, including the vast territory of Labrador. St. John's continually reinvents itself. It has retained something of a small-town feel by capping limits on the height of new buildings, yet it is embracing new economic strengths, particularly in tourism and offshore oil development. As a trading port, it has always welcomed newcomers, while preserving its colorful and unique history. Sights—Cabot Tower on Signal Hill towering over St. John's harbor, and the Fort Amherst Lighthouse; views of the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland, a World War II coastal defense battery, and the first sunrise over the continent at Cape Spear National Historic Site; the trails and monuments at Bowring Park; views from the east and west observation decks at The Rooms provincial museum. Museums—The Rooms, designed as an old fishing house, houses the museum, art gallery, and the provincial archives; the Railway Coastal Museum, with more than 100 years of rail and coastal history; Government House, where members of the British royal family stay when visiting and the site of one of North America's few moats. Memorable Meals—Aqua Restaurant and Bar, for its imaginative and elegant seafood dishes; fish-and-chips at Leo's Restaurant and Take-Out; an elegant Mediterranean experience at Bianca's. Late Night—Folk music at the Ship Pub; a pub crawl along George Street; a Screech-In, a Newfoundland tradition that turns you into an honorary local; a rib-bursting comedy-dinner theater night with Spirit of Newfoundland Productions. Walks—The Grand Concourse, an intricate network of trails stretching in all directions around the city; a loop around Quidi Vidi Lake; route from the Battery to Signal Hill along the East Coast Trail. Especially for Kids—The underground rock formations in the Johnson Geo Centre; a boat tour to see seabirds and whales (in season); underwater viewing tanks at the Fluvarium on Long Pond in C.A. Pippy Park. St. John's has grown from a small harborside village to a thriving metropolis that covers much of the northeast Avalon Peninsula. It is bordered by a series of smaller towns and villages, some of which have retained their historic feel and charm. The downtown includes St. John's Harbour, which boasts natural features that especially appeal for military and commercial purposes. There is only one access point to the harbor—a thin waterway between two rocky hills (known as The Narrows). Rows of houses, many of them brightly painted, line the streets that creep up the steep hill leading away from St. John's Harbour. The city's suburbs and other neighborhoods are to the north. The city's two key roads are Water Street and Duckworth Street, both of which date back centuries. Once dubbed the "Lower Path," Water Street is the oldest street in North America and remains a commercial hub of Newfoundland. St. John's once promoted itself as the site of adventurer John Cabot's 1497 landfall. Cabot—born Giovanni Caboto in Italy—sailed on behalf of England to find a new route to the Far East but instead found North America. There is no evidence supporting the landfall claim, but the city appears on Portuguese maps by 1519. By 1583, there was already an established community to greet Sir Humphrey Gilbert when he arrived and declared Newfoundland the first colony in the British Empire. By the early 1600s the city's location (the easternmost city in Canada) earned it the most important access to the New World, and it prospered as a prime fishing port. In 1892, a fire that began in a stable almost completely destroyed the city, displacing more than 12,000 people. Believing that stone would prevent the fire from progressing, well-to-do residents moved their valuables into the stone Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. A fierce wind and droughtlike conditions created a tinderbox, and the church, the entire commercial district and many homes were devoured by an inferno lasting more than 12 hours. Many heritage buildings date from that era and are known as "Southcott Style," for the architect who oversaw much of the reconstruction. The role of St. John's in representative government began in the 19th century. The Colonial Building, seat of the first government, still stands at Bannerman Park. Government House, home of the British governors who were in command until St. John's joined Canada in 1949, is also located in the city. St. John's is still the administrative center of Newfoundland, but it also remains a major fishing community. The city's economy is as dependent on what is below the water in oil exploration and fishing as it is on what sails across it for local and transcontinental tourists. Location Whether it's ecotourism, Canadian and New England cruising or a trans-Atlantic voyage, St. John's is the port of call for a wide variety of cruise lines. Given the abundance of activities, accommodations and dining options available there, it's no wonder that some refer to the city as small-town Canada with a European flair. Ships dock in the heart of the city on the Marginal Wharf between Piers 6 and 11. As passengers disembark, they can expect an honorable welcome by cannon blast as local musicians serenade them. They step directly into the old downtown core, surrounded by shops, cafes, restaurants and attractions. A Newfoundland or Labrador dog welcomes passengers and will pose for pictures. A short walk from the dock at 348 Water St. (phone 709-576-8106), St. John's Tourism offers local information. City ambassadors are stationed dockside as well as throughout the downtown area to help visitors. Within a short stroll from their docking points, passengers will find local crafts, food and ice cream, plus boat tours to local sights. Taxis are always lined up dockside when ships come in; many large cruise ships make port calls at St. John's. St. John's is home port to many smaller expedition vessels as well. Itineraries include stops along the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, parts of northern Canada, Greenland and Iceland, and the northern U.S. St. John's offers a plethora of interesting historic sites, impressive scenery, parklands and walking trails, as well as eclectic shopping. You'll also find ecological reserves, archaeological sites, seasonal festivals and special events, great shopping, and more than a few options for sailing on the Atlantic Ocean for whale- and bird-watching. Local destination management companies offer preplanned as well as customized tours to accommodate individual or group needs. Tour options include half-day city tours, walking and hiking tours, a scenic trip to Cape Spear, boat tours, kayaking and canoeing as well as full-day tours to museums, galleries, botanical gardens and science centers. When looking for activity options, don't forget about the surrounding areas of Southern Shore, Conception Bay, St. Mary's Bay and Trinity Bay. Potpourri The nickname of St. John's is "City of Legends," alluding to an accumulated five centuries of lore and legend. People who live in Newfoundland are sometimes referred to as "Newfies." Though you'll see this word in the more touristy sections of town, be careful using it yourself. Much like the term "redneck" in the U.S., "Newfie" carries a stigma that is based on an unattractive stereotype. You may come across a "Screech-In" during your visit. Though it's touted as being a tradition, the game was concocted in the 1970s for tourists. Participants are encouraged to down a drink of Screech (a brand of rum), recite some silly lyrics and then kiss either a cod or a puffin (usually stuffed). The milestone that forever changed the way the world communicates occurred when Guglielmo Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless signal at St. John's Signal Hill back in 1901. Well before Charles Lindbergh's historic crossing, British aviators John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown made the first nonstop air crossing of the Atlantic Ocean from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Clifden, Ireland, in 1919. SEE & DO Sightseeing An excellent way to see St. John's is from Signal Hill. Climb it to see why it has been for centuries the place to station military sentinels and signalmen: From the hilltop, you can see almost all of the city, with its low-density neighborhoods, walking trails, university campus and the wilderness reserve to the north.