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ST JOHN'S, NF

OVERVIEW

Introduction

St. John's is the oldest city in and one of the oldest cities in North America, but it can seem surprisingly young. Its roots date back almost five centuries, yet it boasts an eclectic blend of architectural styles and a modern, energetic atmosphere.

Built around its harbor—a natural fortress that drew both naval commanders and the fishing industry—St. John's has evolved from a fishing station to a thriving port city with an exciting blend of interests. A glance around St. John's Harbour will show you the city's strengths: trans-Atlantic cruise ships and small tour boats, docked fishing boats and long-liners, and loaded supply ships that work in the offshore oil industry.

From the harbor, you can see the glass and steel of office buildings, which are adjacent to the brick-walled buildings that house trendy shops, bustling cafes and restaurants. You can also see some of the most historic churches in Canada, as well as cultural attractions including —a complex that towers over the city's skyline, bringing together the provincial museum, art gallery and archives.

Visitors will find great entertainment districts in the city's streets and such outdoor attractions as amazing wildlife and icebergs that drift by the rugged coastline. Just outside the city, you can explore the rest of the province, including the vast territory of Labrador.

St. John's continually reinvents itself. It has retained something of a small-town feel by capping limits on the height of new buildings, yet it is embracing new economic strengths, particularly in tourism and offshore oil development. As a trading port, it has always welcomed newcomers, while preserving its colorful and unique history.

Sights— on Signal Hill towering over St. John's harbor, and the Fort Amherst Lighthouse; views of the oldest surviving lighthouse in , a World War II coastal defense battery, and the first sunrise over the continent at Spear National Historic Site; the trails and monuments at Bowring Park; views from the east and west observation decks at The Rooms provincial museum.

Museums—The Rooms, designed as an old fishing house, houses the museum, art gallery, and the provincial archives; the , with more than 100 years of rail and coastal history; Government House, where members of the British royal family stay when visiting and the site of one of North America's few moats.

Memorable Meals—Aqua Restaurant and Bar, for its imaginative and elegant seafood dishes; fish-and-chips at Leo's Restaurant and Take-Out; an elegant Mediterranean experience at Bianca's.

Late Night—Folk music at the Ship Pub; a pub crawl along George Street; a Screech-In, a Newfoundland tradition that turns you into an honorary local; a rib-bursting comedy-dinner theater night with Spirit of Newfoundland Productions.

Walks—The Grand Concourse, an intricate network of trails stretching in all directions around the city; a loop around Lake; route from the Battery to Signal Hill along the .

Especially for Kids—The underground rock formations in the ; a boat tour to see seabirds and whales (in season); underwater viewing tanks at the Fluvarium on in C.A. .

St. John's has grown from a small harborside village to a thriving metropolis that covers much of the northeast Avalon Peninsula. It is bordered by a series of smaller towns and villages, some of which have retained their historic feel and charm.

The downtown includes St. John's Harbour, which boasts natural features that especially appeal for military and commercial purposes. There is only one access point to the harbor—a thin waterway between two rocky hills (known as The Narrows). Rows of houses, many of them brightly painted, line the streets that creep up the steep hill leading away from St. John's Harbour. The city's suburbs and other neighborhoods are to the north. The city's two key roads are Water Street and Duckworth Street, both of which date back centuries. Once dubbed the "Lower Path," Water Street is the oldest street in North America and remains a commercial hub of Newfoundland.

St. John's once promoted itself as the site of adventurer John Cabot's 1497 landfall. Cabot—born Giovanni Caboto in Italy—sailed on behalf of England to find a new route to the Far East but instead found North America.

There is no evidence supporting the landfall claim, but the city appears on Portuguese maps by 1519. By 1583, there was already an established community to greet Sir Humphrey Gilbert when he arrived and declared Newfoundland the first colony in the British Empire. By the early 1600s the city's location (the easternmost city in Canada) earned it the most important access to the New World, and it prospered as a prime fishing port.

In 1892, a fire that began in a stable almost completely destroyed the city, displacing more than 12,000 people. Believing that stone would prevent the fire from progressing, well-to-do residents moved their valuables into the stone Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. A fierce wind and droughtlike conditions created a tinderbox, and the church, the entire commercial district and many homes were devoured by an inferno lasting more than 12 hours. Many heritage buildings date from that era and are known as "Southcott Style," for the architect who oversaw much of the reconstruction.

The role of St. John's in representative government began in the 19th century. The , seat of the first government, still stands at . Government House, home of the British governors who were in command until St. John's joined Canada in 1949, is also located in the city.

St. John's is still the administrative center of Newfoundland, but it also remains a major fishing community. The city's economy is as dependent on what is below the water in oil exploration and fishing as it is on what sails across it for local and transcontinental tourists.

Location

Whether it's ecotourism, Canadian and New England cruising or a trans-Atlantic voyage, St. John's is the port of call for a wide variety of cruise lines. Given the abundance of activities, accommodations and dining options available there, it's no wonder that some refer to the city as small-town Canada with a European flair.

Ships dock in the heart of the city on the Marginal Wharf between Piers 6 and 11. As passengers disembark, they can expect an honorable welcome by cannon blast as local musicians serenade them. They step directly into the old downtown core, surrounded by shops, cafes, restaurants and attractions. A Newfoundland or Labrador dog welcomes passengers and will pose for pictures.

A short walk from the dock at 348 Water St. (phone 709-576-8106), St. John's Tourism offers local information. City ambassadors are stationed dockside as well as throughout the downtown area to help visitors. Within a short stroll from their docking points, passengers will find local crafts, food and ice cream, plus boat tours to local sights.

Taxis are always lined up dockside when ships come in; many large cruise ships make port calls at St. John's.

St. John's is home port to many smaller expedition vessels as well. Itineraries include stops along the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, parts of northern Canada, Greenland and Iceland, and the northern U.S.

St. John's offers a plethora of interesting historic sites, impressive scenery, parklands and walking trails, as well as eclectic shopping. You'll also find ecological reserves, archaeological sites, seasonal festivals and special events, great shopping, and more than a few options for sailing on the Atlantic Ocean for whale- and bird-watching.

Local destination management companies offer preplanned as well as customized tours to accommodate individual or group needs. Tour options include half-day city tours, walking and hiking tours, a scenic trip to , boat tours, kayaking and canoeing as well as full-day tours to museums, galleries, botanical gardens and science centers.

When looking for activity options, don't forget about the surrounding areas of Southern Shore, Conception Bay, St. Mary's Bay and Trinity Bay.

Potpourri

The nickname of St. John's is "City of Legends," alluding to an accumulated five centuries of lore and legend.

People who live in Newfoundland are sometimes referred to as "Newfies." Though you'll see this word in the more touristy sections of town, be careful using it yourself. Much like the term "redneck" in the U.S., "Newfie" carries a stigma that is based on an unattractive stereotype.

You may come across a "Screech-In" during your visit. Though it's touted as being a tradition, the game was concocted in the 1970s for tourists. Participants are encouraged to down a drink of Screech (a brand of rum), recite some silly lyrics and then kiss either a cod or a puffin (usually stuffed).

The milestone that forever changed the way the world communicates occurred when received the first trans-Atlantic wireless signal at St. John's Signal Hill back in 1901.

Well before Charles Lindbergh's historic crossing, British aviators John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown made the first nonstop air crossing of the Atlantic Ocean from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Clifden, Ireland, in 1919. SEE & DO

Sightseeing

An excellent way to see St. John's is from Signal Hill. Climb it to see why it has been for centuries the place to station military sentinels and signalmen: From the hilltop, you can see almost all of the city, with its low-density neighborhoods, walking trails, university campus and the wilderness reserve to the north. You can walk up, take a tour bus or a travel by taxi for views of the Narrows, St. John's Harbour and the Atlantic Ocean.

Down the hill, the main attraction is St. John's Harbour. From Harbour Drive, you can see The Narrows (the harbor entrance flanked by cliffs on each side). The city's two key roads are Water and Duckworth streets, both of which date back hundreds of years.

Water Street, once called "The Lower Path," remains a commercial hub of Newfoundland—although the fish merchants and department stores have given way to boutiques, trendy shops, coffeehouses and pubs. It's purportedly the oldest street in North America. Because most of its buildings were rebuilt after their destruction in the Great Fire of 1892, much of the architecture of St. John's dates from the late Victorian era.

Take a trip to Portugal Cove and catch the ferry to Bell Island where you can see iron mines and World War II wrecks.

Historic Sites

Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 16 Church Hill The oldest Anglican church in Canada, this cathedral, constructed in the 1840s and rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1892, occupies a city block at St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, the appropriately named Church Hill. It is known as one of the best Canada A1B 4J9 examples of neo-Gothic architecture in the New World. Ask for a guided Phone: 709-726-5677 tour to see treasures up close. The Crypt Tea Room serves delicious https://ourcathedral.ca tea and desserts during summer Monday-Friday 2:30-4:30 pm, Wednesday hours are 2-4 pm. Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. Admission Can$8. 16 Church Hill (corner of Gower Street, at the base of Garrison Hill), St. John's. Phone 709-726-5677. https://ourcathedral.ca.

Basilica of St. John the Baptist 200 Military Road Completed in 1850, this seat of the Roman Catholic Church in St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Newfoundland and Labrador dominates the city skyline and contains numerous historically important treasures. Its twin towers are clearly Canada A1C 2E8 visible to any ship sailing through the Narrows into St. John's Harbour. A Phone: 709-754-2170 visit to the Basilica's museum, a five-minute walk down the street, is http://www.thebasilica.ca strongly recommended. Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 8 am-4 pm. Museum admission by donation. 200 Military Road (at Bonaventure Avenue), St. John's. Phone 709-754-2170. http://www.thebasilica.ca.

Colonial Building Military Road Although the provincial legislature first met in a tavern and lodging St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, house, it finally moved into this handsome building that was completed in 1850. As the primary seat of elected government for decades, the Canada Colonial Building was home to Newfoundland's legislators until the Phone: 709-729-0592 Confederation Building opened in 1960. The Colonial Building later http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/colonial- housed the Provincial Archives of Newfoundland and Labrador, which building.aspx were eventually moved to The Rooms cultural complex on nearby Bonaventure Avenue. The Colonial Building is currently closed for extensive renovations. Military Road (at Bannerman Road, near Government House), St. John's. Phone 709-729-0592. http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/colonial-building.aspx.

Commissariat House 13 King's Bridge Road The Commissariat House was built to serve as both office and home of St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, the assistant commissary general for the colony. The 1818 building, now a provincial historic site, has been restored and furnished to show what Canada A1B 4J6 visitors and residents would have experienced in 1830. The coach Phone: 709-729-6730 house nearby is filled with memorabilia. Guides give tours. Daily 9:30 http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/the- am-5 pm. Can$6 adults. 13 King's Bridge Road, St. John's. Phone 709- commissariat.aspx 729-6730. http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/the-commissariat.aspx. Court House 309 Duckworth St. One of the most striking buildings downtown is the Court House, which St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, is accessible from both Water and Duckworth streets. The stone of the 1901 Court House is carved in a distinctive Romanesque style, and it Canada A1C 5M3 has been restored to resemble its original appearance. It is still a fully Phone: 709-729-1137 functioning seat of the criminal justice system. 309 Duckworth St., St. http://www.court.nl.ca/supreme/general/locations/stjohns.html John's. Phone 709-729-1137. http://www.court.nl.ca/supreme/general/locations/stjohns.html.

Government House 50 Military Road This grand mansion was designed to be the residence of the British governors who oversaw Newfoundland's affairs. Government House, St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, which occupies the easternmost section of Military Road, is now the Canada A1C 5W4 home of the province's lieutenant governor and hosts members of the Phone: 709-729-4494 British royal family when they visit. Visitors are welcome to stroll through http://www.govhouse.nl.ca/governmenthouse the gardens. For a free tour of the house, call one week in advance. 50 Military Road (at Bannerman Road), St. John's. Phone 709-729-4494 or 709-729-2669 for tour bookings. http://www.govhouse.nl.ca/governmenthouse.

Gower Street United Church 99 Queen's Road Known as the Methodist Cathedral, this church was built in the late 19th century after the Great Fire of 1892 had destroyed its predecessor. Its St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, marvelous redbrick design is a hallmark of St. John's architecture. Canada A1C 6M6 Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. 99 Queen's Road (Church Hill, across from Phone: 709-753-7286 the Anglican Cathedral), St. John's. Phone 709-753-7286. http://www.gowerunited.ca http://www.gowerunited.ca.

Harbourside Park Duckworth and Water streets This site is believed to have been the landing place of Sir Humphrey St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Gilbert in 1583. Gilbert claimed Newfoundland as Britain's first colony, and a plaque hangs in the park in his honor. Natives of St. John's love Canada dogs, so don't miss the Our Dogs statue. Duckworth and Water streets (across from the National War Memorial), St. John's.

Murray Premises 5 Beck's Cove This is one of the oldest buildings in St. John's (it survived the Great Fire in 1892) and housed fish warehouses in the mid-19th century. It was St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, restored in the late 1970s, and today is home to a variety of tenants: Canada áA1C 6H1 retailers, restaurants and a fine boutique-hotel. Hours vary for each https://murraypremiseshotel.com business. 5 Beck's Cove (at Water Street), St. John's. Toll-free 866-738- 773. https://murraypremiseshotel.com.

National War Memorial Between Duckworth and Water streets Built in the 1920s, this memorial commemorates the heavy losses in the Royal Newfoundland Regiment during World War I. The "National" in its St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, title dates from Newfoundland's former status as a separate dominion Canada from Britain or Canada from 1907 to 1949 (prior to that time it was still http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/canada/national considered a British Colony). Between Duckworth and Water streets (Between Duckworth and Water streets), St. John's. http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/canada/national.

Signal Hill St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, This hill looms over St. John's Harbour, offering a panoramic view of the ocean, port and city. It was a strategic military point for centuries. It is Canada topped by Cabot Tower, a national historic site. Among other things, Signal Hill was the site of Guglielmo Marconi's history-changing radio experiment in 1901, in which he received the first trans-Atlantic wireless signal. Consider taking the trail leading through the Battery, an ancient fishing community with roadways that become increasingly narrow. The safer walking option is the main roadway, especially during rainy, foggy or icy weather. Pay close attention to safety warnings and stay on designated trails and roads.

St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church 76 Queen's Road Like Gower Street United Church, this church was built to replace one St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, lost in the Great Fire of 1892. St. Andrew's was built in the Gothic Canada A1C 6J9 Revival style and sits atop a small knoll. It's marked by its towering spire. Phone: 709-726-5385 Monday-Friday 9 am-2 pm. 76 Queen's Road, St. John's. Phone 709- http://pccweb.ca/standrews-stjohns 726-5385. http://pccweb.ca/standrews-stjohns.

St. Thomas' Anglican Church 8 Military Road This is one of the oldest wooden churches in Canada. It was built in 1836 and survived the Great Fire of 1892, as well as another fire in St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, 1846 that laid waste to numerous neighboring buildings. 8 Military Road Canada A1C 2C4 (at King's Bridge Road, near Commissariat House), St. John's. Phone Phone: 709-576-6632 709-576-6632. http://www.st-thomaschurch.com. http://www.st-thomaschurch.com

Johnson Geo Centre 175 Signal Hill Road The Geo Centre is one of the most unique attractions in Canada. Its St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, ultramodern architecture is carved into the rocks of Signal Hill. In the lobby, there is an incredible three-story display of the solar system Canada A1A 1B2 suspended overhead. With multimedia displays and excellent Phone: 709-737-7880 presentations, it not only explains the geology of St. John's, but also of http://www.geocentre.ca Earth. April-December daily 9:30 am-5 pm. Can$12 adults. 175 Signal Hill Road, St. John's. Phone 709-737-7880. Toll-free 866-868-7625. http://www.geocentre.ca.

Railway Coastal Museum 495 Water St. W. Dedicated to the crews who served the now-defunct railway and coastal- St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, boat system, this museum was built in the historic that served St. John's for generations until it ceased service in 1988. It Canada A1C 5X8 features numerous exhibits, as well as a large and fully functional Phone: 709-724-5929 model-train display. October to mid-June Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 https://www.railwaycoastalmuseum.ca pm; mid-June to September daily 10 am-5 pm. Can$7 adults. 495 Water St. W., St. John's. Phone 709-724-5929. https://www.railwaycoastalmuseum.ca.

The Rooms 9 Bonaventure Ave. The former Newfoundland Museum is now one-third of The Rooms complex, which also houses the provincial art gallery and archives. The St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, museum division features selections from its permanent exhibition and Canada A1C 5P9 visiting exhibitions. Monday, Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday 10 am-5 Phone: 709-757-8000 pm; Wednesday 10 am-9 pm; Sunday noon-5 pm. Can$10 adults. 9 http://www.therooms.ca/museum Bonaventure Ave., St. John's. Phone 709-757-8000. http://www.therooms.ca/museum.

Battery St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, If you have time, make the steep 90-minute walk down to the bottom of Signal Hill and the Battery neighborhood, one of the oldest sections of Canada St. John's. It was once a part of the British defense of the harbor and maintains the look and character of the town's early days as a simple fishing village. Small fishing houses seem to cling to the sides of cliffs as the streets narrow.

Gower & Bond St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, This area is home to the row houses of downtown St. John's. The Canada houses are attached to one another but tend to have distinctive widths and heights. They are renowned for their bright colors and their late- Victorian architecture. Key streets include Gower, Bond, Cochrane and Prescott.

Quidi Vidi Village 10 Maple View Place This working fishing village (known locally as "The Gut") is contained St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, within the city limits, but it retains its old character. Most of the roads are narrow, so walking is a necessity. You may consider hiking to the village Canada A1A 5W2 from either (a short walk) or from Signal Hill through the http://qvvplantation.com Burma Road Trail (a more rigorous hike). Look for Mallard Cottage (2 Barrows Road), which is a national historic site, and Quidi Vidi Brewery, a brewery that is open for tours, tastings and, of course, purchases throughout the year. Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm, Sunday 11 am- 4 pm. 10 Maple View Place, St. John's. http://qvvplantation.com. Bowring Park 305 Waterford Bridge Road This 200-acre/81-hectare green space in the southwestern end of town St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, has some interesting statues. Look for the bronze Caribou, a replica of the original in Beaumont Hamel, France, honoring the Royal Canada A1E 5Y7 Newfoundland Regiment, which suffered huge numbers of casualties Phone: 709-364-1531 there during a World War I battle. Local community arts groups perform http://www.bowringpark.com regularly at the 700-plus-seat outdoor amphitheater. If you feel like a stroll, follow the trail to scenic Captain's Falls Bridge. There is also a playground with a pool for children. Daily 9 am-7 pm. 305 Waterford Bridge Road, St. John's. Phone 709-364-1531. http://www.bowringpark.com.

Cape Spear National Historic Site Blackhead Road Located 9 mi/15 km southeast of St. John's, this park sits atop the towering cliffs and is the most easterly point of North America. There St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, you'll find a World War II coastal-defense battery with two huge guns. Canada A1C 5H2 The cliffs provide a good vantage point from which to spot whales and Phone: 709-772-5367 icebergs. Originally built in 1835, the Cape Spear lighthouse has been http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn- refurbished and now houses a museum with information about what life was like for lighthouse keepers. May-October Daily 10:30 am-5:30 pm. nhs/nl/spear/index.aspx Can$3.90 adults, Can$3.40 seniors, Can$1.90 children, Can$9.80 family. Blackhead Road, St. John's. Phone 709-772-5367. http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/spear/index.aspx.

C.A. Pippy Park 15 Mount Scio Road This 3,400-acre/1,376-hectare park at the north end of St. John's is popular with hikers, cross-country skiers, canoeists, campers, St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, swimmers, horseback riders and golfers. Moose are frequent visitors to Canada A1B 3T2 the park, as well. The Fluvarium in the park is a unique glance into the Phone: 709-737-3655 freshwater world. An observation window allows visitors to see below the http://www.pippypark.com surface of a stream, where North American eels, arctic char, and brook and rainbow trout reside (http://www.fluvarium.ca). There's much to do there, so if you enjoy the outdoors, leave yourself plenty of time for exploring. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm(June-September until 3:30 pm). 15 Mount Scio Road (park headquarters), St. John's. Phone 709-737-3655. http://www.pippypark.com.

Memorial University of Newfoundland Botanical Garden 306 Mount Scio Road Established during the 1970s, the gardens house native flora and fauna and serve as a research facility as well as a bridge for fostering a St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, greener approach to living. It offers an excellent opportunity to observe Canada A1B 4L6 a wide range of botanical species. Lectures, workshops and camps for Phone: 709-864-8590 kids fill its summer program schedule, along with evening walks, http://www.mun.ca/botgarden morning bird-watching and floral shows on weekends. Enjoy a refreshing tea and snack at the Garden Cafe (open during the summer 11 am-4 pm). Daily 10 am-5 pm May-August, daily 10 am-4 pm September-November, Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm December-April. June-September Can$9 adults, low season Can$7 adults. 306 Mount Scio Road, St. John's. Phone 709-864-8590. http://www.mun.ca/botgarden.

Salmonier Nature Park Route 90 Originally established as an educational resource, the park has since St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, become a primary tourist destination (about 40,000 people visit each year). It is about an hour's drive from St. John's and is home to a wide Canada variety of native plants and animals. The park has a network of Phone: 709-229-7888 boardwalks from which visitors can observe wildlife ranging from https://www.flr.gov.nl.ca/wildlife/snp Newfoundland marten and woodland caribou to bald eagles. Hiking is limited depending on the time of year and your experience. Daily 10 am- 4 pm. Free admission. Route 90 (Salmonier Line, on the Avalon Peninsula), St. John's. Phone 709-229-7888. https://www.flr.gov.nl.ca/wildlife/snp.

Signal Hill National Historic Park 230 Signal Hill Road It was at this site in 1762 that the English and French fought the last St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, North American battle of the Seven Years' War (known in North America Canada A1A 1B3 as the French and Indian War). Signal Hill offers an ever-changing Phone: 709-772-5367 panorama that encompasses ships in the narrow harbor channel, the https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/nl/signalhill surrounding city and the vast Atlantic beyond. Inside Cabot Tower (completed in 1900), there are exhibits and a gift shop. Several restored and reconstructed military emplacements are located nearby. The Lookout Trail has interpretive displays explaining the history of Signal Hill, St. John's and Newfoundland. Cabot Tower is open mid-April to mid-November 9 am-5 pm daily; opens at 8:30 am June-early September. Can$3.90 adults. 230 Signal Hill Road (south of Quidi Vidi Village), St. John's. Phone 709-772-5367. https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn- nhs/nl/signalhill.

Newman Wine Vaults 436 Water St. If you're a fan of port wine, make a point of visiting the Newman Wine St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Vaults. For generations, port wine was sent to age at these vaults before being shipped worldwide. The vaults have been restored as a Canada A1E 1B1 museum and are open to the public. May, June, September and Phone: 709-739-7870 October Wednesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm; July and August daily 9:30 http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/newman- am-5 pm. Can$6 adults. 436 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-739- 7870. http://www.seethesites.ca/the-sites/newman-wine-vaults.aspx. wine-vaults.aspx

Quidi Vidi Brewing Company 35 Barrows Road Two scientists teamed up with a master brewer to start this small brewery in the Quidi Vidi historic fishing village, located less than 2 mi/3 St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, km from downtown St. John's. It's since expanded to sell its 892 brew Canada A1A 1G8 (based on a recipe found in city archives), Iceberg beer (made from Phone: 709-738-4040 melted Arctic bergs), and others at provincial liquor stores and local http://www.quidividibrewery.ca pubs. Sunday-Wednesday noon-8 pm, Thursday noon-10 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-midnight. The Can$15 tour charge includes beer tasting and a beverage. 35 Barrows Road, St. John's. Phone 709-738- 4040. http://www.quidividibrewery.ca.

Recreation

A key attraction of living in St. John's is the proximity to wilderness and a host of outdoor activities. Marine Drive north of St. John's takes in breathtaking coastline and includes Middle Cove, a sheltered, rocky beach that is popular year-round with residents. Kayaking is popular in summer; snowmobiling and cross-country skiing in winter. Hiking is popular all year, from the trails that circuit through the city's Grand Concourse to the more rugged trails that branch out from the city's outer limits.

Yachts anchor in nearby communities such as Long Pond (home of the Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club). And you'll spot anglers in numerous streams and rivers in the area, including restored waterways such as the Virginia River in the city's east end.

Beaches

Although St. John's sits at the edge of the ocean, the Atlantic coast is rocky and very cold. Even on the best of days, it is not conducive to swims because of uncompromising sea patterns. Instead, set your sights on beaches along the sheltered coast at Conception Bay, which are warmer and sand-covered. Other nearby beaches to consider include Leech Brook, Shallow Bay, Chamberlains Beach, Long Pond Beach and Lance Cove Beach (all at Conception Bay South), and Indian Pond Beach and Main Beach (Holyrood). Clovelly Golf Club 100 Golf Course Road Two 18-hole courses in the city's northeast end feature challenging fairways. 100 Golf Course Road, St. John's. Phone 709-722-7170. St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, http://www.clovelly.ca. Canada A1A 0A6 Phone: 709-722-7170 http://www.clovelly.ca

Glendenning Golf 120 Gabriel Road A west end tree-lined oasis in the city. Daily 6:30 am-dusk. 120 Gabriel Road (off Ruby Line), St. John's. Phone 709-368-4747. St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, http://glendenninggolf.ca. Canada A1H 1A5 Phone: 709-368-4747 http://glendenninggolf.ca Pippy Park Golf Courses 460 Allandale Road This place includes a full 18-hole public course, as well as an additional St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, nine-hole course. 460 Allandale Road, St. John's. Phone 709-753-7110. http://www.pippypark.com/golfing.asp. Canada A1B 4E8 Phone: 709-753-7110 http://www.pippypark.com/golfing.asp

East Coast Trail 50 Pippy Place, Second Floor Through ghost towns, deserted lighthouses and ecological reserves, St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, you'll enjoy the true flavor of Newfoundland while steering clear of the beaten path. The trail has various entry points and is suitable for Canada A1B 3M7 everyone from amateurs to professionals. The finished section of the Phone: 709-738-4453 trail runs from Quidi Vidi Village in St. John's north 28 mi/45 km to Cape https://www.eastcoasttrail.com St. Francis, and 137 mi/220 km south from Fort Amherst in St. John's to Cappahayden. Another 171 mi/275 km is under development and will extend each point; from Pouch Cove to Topsail Beach in the north, and from Cappahayden to Trepassey in the south. 50 Pippy Place, Second Floor, St. John's. Phone 709-738-4453. https://www.eastcoasttrail.com.

Grand Concourse 439 Allandale Road If city walking is more your thing, explore the Grand Concourse's 99 mi/160 km of walking trails. Meandering through a network of St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, boardwalks over ponds, lakes and rivers, these trails are exceptional for Canada A1B 4E8 birders and nature lovers who prefer to stay within urban borders. Phone: 709-737-1077 Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm. 439 Allandale Road (Grand Concourse http://www.grandconcourse.ca Authority), St. John's. Phone 709-737-1077. http://www.grandconcourse.ca.

Newfoundland T'Railway St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Following an abandoned railway line, this trail snakes 549 mi/883 km Canada A1V 1W7 through provincially protected property. There are more than 130 bridges on the trail, and the highest peak is 1,550 ft/472 m above sea Phone: 709-256-8833 level. If you're lucky, you'll be able to see the provincial flower (the http://www.trailway.ca Pitcher plant), one of the few carnivorous flowers in the world—it actually eats insects. The trail begins in Port aux Basques in the west, goes to St. John's in the east and is accessible at various points. Phone 709-256-8833. http://www.trailway.ca.

You'll find a multitude of skating rinks, both indoors and out, throughout St. John's. Some of the more popular indoor arenas are Twin Rinks, Feildian Gardens and the rink at the . Some of the popular outdoor ponds include Mundy, Kent's and Kenny's.

For times and fees, contact the H.G.R. Mews Community Centre, City of St. John's Recreation Division. Phone 709-576-8499.

Newfoundland offers a diverse sampling of ski hills, from rugged cross-country terrain to downhill slopes suitable for all ski levels. Because the province receives an impressive amount of snow, but not the frigid temperatures of the Maritime Provinces, conditions are ideal throughout most of the winter months.

Nightlife

The heart of nightlife in downtown St. John's is based around George Street. Once a street of warehouses and wholesalers, George Street (open to foot traffic only) now bustles with bars, clubs and restaurants.

Most bars charge a cover only when live acts are performing. Most bars and clubs are open until 2 am, with extended hours (but no bar service) until 3 am.

Note: Smoking is prohibited in nightclubs in Newfoundland and Labrador.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Bivver Lounge 115 Cavendish Square In the Sheraton and far away from the George Street buzz, this slick hotel bar offers a quiet respite. Drinks are St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, reasonably priced, and the circular bar, easy chair seating and aurora- Canada A1C 3K2 borealis artwork all feel elegant and relaxed. Sunday-Wednesday 11:30 Phone: 709-726-4980 am-midnight, Thursday-Saturday 11:30 am-1 am. 115 Cavendish https://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel- Square, St. John's. Phone 709-726-4980. https://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel-information/restaurant/yytsi- information/restaurant/yytsi-sheraton-hotel- sheraton-hotel-newfoundland. newfoundland

Christian's 23 George St. The oldest bar in the George Street scene, Christian's offers a cozy bar downstairs and a party room upstairs. In the summer, it's a popular St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, place for the drinking ritual known as a Screech-In. (Some people enjoy Canada A1C 2B4 the experience, some find it embarrassing.) 23 George St., St. John's. Phone: 709-753-9100 Phone 709-753-9100. http://www.georgestreetlive.ca/bars/christians- http://www.georgestreetlive.ca/bars/christians- bar. bar

Duke of Duckworth 325 Duckworth St. This casual pub, wedged between Duckworth and Water streets on St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, McMurdo's Lane, looks as if it's been there for years. Newfoundlanders —not big on stargazing at celebrities—won't budge should they spot a Canada movie star downing a pint or two. The place is popular among lawyers, Phone: 709-739-6344 businesspeople and musicians, who all rub shoulders vying for local and http://www.dukeofduckworth.com foreign brews. Try the local Quidi Vidi, Storm and the dark house ale, The Duke's Own. Sunday-Thursday noon-1 am, Friday and Saturday noon-3 am. 325 Duckworth St. (down McMurdo's Lane), St. John's. Phone 709-739-6344. http://www.dukeofduckworth.com.

Green Sleeves Pub & Eatery 12-14 George St. With one of the largest decks in the city, Green Sleeves is the place to St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, be on a summer afternoon—restaurant by day, pub by night. Year- round, the indoor bar is popular, and good pub food can be had during Canada A1C 5P3 the day. Live music nightly. Daily 11 am-10 pm. 12-14 George St., St. Phone: 709-579-1070 John's. Phone 709-579-1070. http://www.greensleevespub.ca. http://www.greensleevespub.ca

Martini Bar 312 Water St. Don't think only beer pubs line George Street. This fashionably chic martini bar in the heart of this pub hub serves martinis along with wine St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, and ale and boasts two floors of fun. On Friday and Saturday, there's Canada A1C 1B8 live music upstairs with DJs spinning tracks downstairs. Open Thursday- Phone: 709-739-9180 Saturday 7 pm-3 am. 312 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-739-9180. http://www.themartinibar.ca http://www.themartinibar.ca.

O'Reilly's Irish Pub 13 George St. A good pub for a quiet chat, this is also a good venue to see live music St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, later in the evening. Open-mike nights are popular. Daily from 11:30 am. Cover charge for booked acts. 13 George St., St. John's. Phone 709- Canada A1C 1M4 722-3735. http://www.oreillyspub.com. Phone: 709-722-3735 http://www.oreillyspub.com

The Sundance Bar and Grill 33A New Gower St. One of the largest and oldest bars on George Street, The Sundance has expanded over the years to include the trendy Club One rock club, the St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, George Street Beer Market and Dusk, a hip martini bar. Food served. Canada A1C 5X3 Daily 11 am-2 am. Cover charges vary on entertainment. 33A New Phone: 709-753-7822 Gower St. (at Adelaide Street), St. John's. Phone 709-753-7822. https://www.facebook.com/sundanceongeorge https://www.facebook.com/sundanceongeorge.

Trapper John's Museum N' Pub 2 George St. If you're itching to try Newfoundland Screech and think your stomach St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, can handle it, include this one in your pub crawl. You'll find more traditional "Newfoundland" flavor there than in most pubs. Monday- Canada A1C 5H5 Wednesday noon-2 am, Thursday-Sunday noon-3 am. 2 George St., St. Phone: 709-579-9630 John's. Phone 709-579-9630. https://www.facebook.com/trapperjohns. https://www.facebook.com/trapperjohns

Yellow Belly Brewery 288 Water St. One of the few downtown merchant buildings that survived the Great St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Fire in 1892 is now a cozy microbrewery. Order full pints of house- brewed ales and tuck into upscale pub fare such as gourmet burgers Canada A1C 5J9 and wood-fired pizzas. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-2 am, Friday and Phone: 709-757-3780 Saturday 11:30 am-3 am. 288 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-757- http://www.yellowbellybrewery.com 3780. http://www.yellowbellybrewery.com.

Konfusion 6-10 George St. This hot George Street dance club is linked with live-music venue Rob St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Roy next door. Tuesday-Saturday. Cover varies depending upon event. 6-10 George St., St. John's. Phone 709-728-7020 (Konfusion) or 709- Canada A1C 5H5 739-6270 (Rob Roy). https://www.konfusionnightclub.com. Phone: 709-728-7020 https://www.konfusionnightclub.com

Fat Cat Blues Bar 8 George St. Many of the best musicians in St. John's (and elsewhere) make a point St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, of playing the Fat Cat, which features styles that extend well past traditional blues. Features live music nightly. Sunday is open-mike night. Canada A1E 1Z5 Tuesday 9 pm-2 am, Wednesday 8 pm-2 am, Thursday-Sunday 8 pm-3 Phone: 709-739-5554 am. Cover charge varies. 8 George St., St. John's. Phone 709-739- http://www.fatcatbluesbar.com 5554. http://www.fatcatbluesbar.com.

Rob Roy 6-8-10 George St. Live music events and special promotions at the self-proclaimed oldest St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, bar on George Street. It's associated with Konfusion dance club next door. Tuesday and Wednesday 3 pm-2 am, Thursday-Saturday 3 pm-3 Canada am. 6-8-10 George St., St. John's. Phone 709-739-6270. Phone: 709-739-6270 https://www.robroypub.com. https://www.robroypub.com

The Ship Pub 265 Duckworth St. An old-fashioned pub (the low ceiling adds to the allure) that's been a St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, perennial favorite with artists, "the Ship" also features live rock acts late on Friday and Saturday evenings. Folk nights are held Wednesday Canada evenings with various guests. It's off the beer path, but the cozy Phone: 709-753-3870 atmosphere is worth the extra effort. Be sure to try the fish cakes. Daily noon-2 am (until 3 am Thursday-Sunday). Cover varies for live events. 265 Duckworth St. (Solomon's Lane), St. John's. Phone 709-753-3870.

Performing Arts

St. John's is renowned for a vibrant, indigenous theater scene, often with a cutting, humorous flair. Theater groups perform at such venues as the St. John's Arts & Culture Centre (near the Memorial University campus) and the LSPU Hall (Resource Centre for the Arts) on Victoria Street in downtown St. John's.

Local entertainment listings provide details on performances, times and dates. You can also visit the city of St. John's website for a detailed listing of what's playing where during your visit. http://www.stjohns.ca.

Theater

Shakespeare by the Sea c/o 23 Walsh's Square The longest running summer theater in St. John's, this company has been performing in various venues across the city since 1993. While the St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, focus is on Shakespeare, other plays are also offered. Plays run various Canada A1A 1B5 days and times during July and August; call or visit the website for times Phone: 709-722-7287 and locations. Can$20 adults, Can$15 students and seniors. Special http://shakespearebytheseafestival.com rates for the children's show. Tickets are available 30-60 minutes before show time. c/o 23 Walsh's Square (office), St. John's. Phone 709-722- 7287 (in season). http://shakespearebytheseafestival.com.

Spirit of Newfoundland Productions 6 Cathedral St. Newfoundlanders love a good laugh even during dinner. This local St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, company specializes in musical comedies and whips out original screenplays that could warrant attention from a Hollywood executive. Canada A1C 3Y3 Show themes vary each year; it has produced more than 50 different Phone: 709-579-3023 shows since it started in 1997. Theater plus dinner includes a hearty http://www.spiritofnewfoundland.com meal of Newfoundland cod bake or oven-roasted chicken and all the fixings, with rum cake for dessert. Season runs summer to fall. Dinner theater Can$65. 6 Cathedral St., St. John's. Phone 709-579-3023. Toll- free 877-661-3023. http://www.spiritofnewfoundland.com. Mile One Centre 50 New Gower St. Open since 1994, this concert and sports venue is St. John's claim to St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, fame when you're looking for something exciting to do. You'll find ice skating and a power walking program sprinkled between the concerts. Canada A1C 1J3 Daily 9 am-5 pm. 50 New Gower St., St. John's. Phone 709-758-1111 Phone: 709-758-1111 box office 709-576-7657. http://www.mileonecentre.com. http://www.mileonecentre.com

Resource Centre for the Arts 3 Victoria St. Home to music festivals, comedy shows and quirky late-night St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, performances, this is an artist-run organization devoted to preserving and celebrating Newfoundland Heritage. It's not Hollywood glamour, but Canada A1C 3V2 you won't be disappointed with your time spent there, either. 3 Victoria Phone: 709-753-4531, St. (box office), St. John's. Phone 709-753-4531, ext. 200. http://www.rca.nf.ca http://www.rca.nf.ca.

Spectator Sports

St. John's is host to the Royal St. John's Regatta, a day of rowing races in early August, that is the oldest continuing sporting event in North America.

In addition to the Ice AAA hockey team, St. John's is also home to the St. John's Maple Leafs, a member of the Newfoundland and Labrador Major Midget AAA leagues (http://site1994.goalline.ca). The team is one of two capital region teams in the six-team league, along with the St. John's Pennecon Privateers.

Hockey

Ice Caps 50 New Gower St. This AAA team has its home games at the Mile One Stadium. The St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, regular season runs October-April. 50 New Gower St., St. John's. Phone 709-576-7657. http://stjohnsicecaps.com. Canada A1C 1J3 Phone: 709-576-7657 http://stjohnsicecaps.com

Royal St. John's Regatta 10 Clancey Drive, Quidi Vidi Lake Canada's oldest continual sporting event, the Royal St. John's Regatta, St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, takes place each year on the first Wednesday in August. It likely started as early as the 1700s with fishermen showing off their skills, but there's Canada A1C 5J2 been an official organizing committee for the event since 1826. Today, Phone: 709-576-8921 the regatta is a combination of professional crews and amateurs http://www.stjohnsregatta.org competing in a daylong series of rowing races. The festivities culminate in a garden party for more than 50,000 spectators and competitors. 10 Clancey Drive, Quidi Vidi Lake (near downtown), St. John's. Phone 709- 576-8921 (May-August). http://www.stjohnsregatta.org.

St. John's Curling Club at the Remax Centre 135 Mayor Ave. This city loves its curling. During the 2006 Winter Olympics, the mayor St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, declared a day off from school so kids could the Canadian men's curling team win its gold medal. The city went into celebration mode as Canada A1A 5G6 soon as the victorious curlers (three players hail from Newfoundland Phone: 709-722-3290 and Labrador) arrived at the airport. Check the website for schedules http://www.stjohnscurlingclub.com and tournament updates for the province's favorite sport—Wednesday nights are most exciting, when the major league and Wednesday leagues compete. Season runs mid-October to February. Prices vary. 135 Mayor Ave., St. John's. Phone 709-722-3290. http://www.stjohnscurlingclub.com.

Shopping

Shop for provincial handicrafts: pottery, labradorite jewelry, hand-knit woolens, soapstone and bone jewelry, Grenfell , crochet work, fishermen's mitts, hooked mats and rugs, and duffelwork (heavy often embroidered with Arctic scenes). You'll find lots of crafts shops, galleries and boutiques in downtown St. John's, especially along Duckworth and Water streets, as well as at Churchill Square. Natural soaps, scented with local herbs such as Labrador tea, can be found in several gift boutiques. Another popular souvenir item is Newfoundland and Labrador music, whether it be folk, traditional, pop or rock.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm. Some stores have additional hours on Sunday. Stores often open earlier and stay open later if a cruise ship is in port.

Bookstores

Afterwords Bookstore 245 Duckworth St. No textbooks there, but everything else—tomes on Newfoundland, St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, romance, mystery and nonfiction—are well-stacked at this used-book store. Open daily 10 am-5:30 pm (until 9 pm on Friday). 245 Duckworth Canada St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-4690. Phone: 709-753-4690

Craft Council of Newfoundland and Labrador 275 Duckworth St. In addition to an excellent store that presents goods made by artisan members, this gallery features distinctive work by local artists. On-site St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, studio and workshops for artists. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. 275 Canada A1C 1H3 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-2749. Phone: 709-753-2749 http://www.craftcouncil.nl.ca. http://www.craftcouncil.nl.ca

Emma Butler Gallery 111 George St. W. Quality art from accomplished and emerging artists is showcased at this St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, gallery. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-5 pm. 111 George St. W., St. John's. Phone 709-739-7111. http://www.emmabutler.com. Canada A1C 6K2 Phone: 709-739-7111 http://www.emmabutler.com

Farmers Market 245 Freshwater Road Variety is highest during the summer and fall months at this weekly farmers market. Expect to find fresh berries, preserves, fish and St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, vegetables. Daily 9 am-2 pm. 245 Freshwater Road (at the Lions Club Canada A1B 1B3 Chalet), St. John's. http://stjohnsfarmersmarket.ca. http://stjohnsfarmersmarket.ca

Downhome Shoppe & Gallery 303 Water St. Formerly known as the Downhomer, this store boasts a broad range of St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, affordable products with a focus solely on Newfoundland and Labrador. Specialties are giftware, , books, music and DVDs. Additional Canada location at 29 Durrell St. in Twillingate (phone 709-884-2707 or toll-free Phone: 709-722-2970 877-639-4637). Monday-Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 10 am-5:30 http://www.shopdownhome.com pm; Thursday 10 am-8 pm; Sunday noon-5 pm. 303 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-722-2970. Toll-free 888-588-6353. http://www.shopdownhome.com.

Fred's Records 198 Duckworth St. An institution to vinyl, CDs and DVDs, this music shop has been offering St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, up the best in Newfoundland music, rock, jazz and anything else that your fancy for more than 30 years. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am- Canada A1C 1G5 9 pm, Saturday till 6 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. 198 Duckworth St., St. Phone: 709-753-9191 John's. Phone 709-753-9191. http://www.fredsrecords.com. http://www.fredsrecords.com

Golden Tulip 295 Water St. For a gift of one-of-a-kind jewelry, try the Golden Tulip and its collection of handcrafted and designer goods, including the Newfoundland St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Collection. Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm. 295 Water St., St. John's. Canada A1C 1B9 Phone 709-753-4653. http://www.thegoldentulip.ca. Phone: 709-753-4653 http://www.thegoldentulip.ca

Heritage Shop Newfoundland and Labrador 158 Duckworth St. A volunteer, nonprofit association that promotes Newfoundland art and St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, artists. Proceeds from the gift shop support restoration projects of historical landmarks throughout the province. Don't expect flea market Canada A1E 3L5 finds there—the arts and crafts are high-quality and sometimes pricey. Phone: 709-753-9040 Additional locations at 309 Water St. (phone 739-7994), the http://www.historicsites.ca and the airport. Seasonal locations are also open at major tourist destinations in the city. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 158 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-9040. http://www.historicsites.ca.

Johnny Ruth & Living Planet 183 Water St. This duo shop fuses a funky local T- business known for its satirical political humor and an easy breezy women's retail shop carrying brand St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, names such as Ted Baker. Whatever the season, find something to Canada A1C 1B1 splurge on there. The shop also supports big community fundraisers. Phone: 709-722-7477 Monday-Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday http://johnnyruth.com 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. 183 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709- 722-7477. http://johnnyruth.com.

Newfoundland Chocolate Company 166 Duckworth St. For chocolate paired with tradtional Newfoundland flavors such as partridgeberry or Screech rum, step into this lovely chocolate shop on St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Duckworth Street. Single truffles, boxed chocolates and bars with Canada A1C 1G2 rowhouse-style wrappers are all in stock. Monday-Wednesday and Phone: 709-579-0099 Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon- http://www.newfoundlandchocolatecompany.com 5 pm. 166 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-579-0099. http://www.newfoundlandchocolatecompany.com.

Newfoundland Weavery 177 Water St. One of the oldest crafts shops in the province, the Newfoundland St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Weavery offers a full line of products, including and caps, pottery, photography, cards and giftware. Monday-Saturday 11 am-6 Canada pm. 177 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-0496. Phone: 709-753-0496 Nonia 286 Water St. The roots of Nonia (for Newfoundland Outport Nursing and Industrial Association) date from the nurses who worked in outport Newfoundland. St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, The store still sells excellent hand-knit and woven items, including Canada A1C 1B7 , caps and mittens. January-April Tuesday-Saturday 10 am- http://www.nonia.com 5:30 pm; May, October and November Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm; June-September and December Monday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 12:30-4 pm. 286 Water St., St. John's. Toll-free 877-753-8062. http://www.nonia.com.

O'Brien's Boutique 126 Duckworth St. Owned by the folks who run O'Brien's Boat Tours, this store specializes in Newfoundland crafts and gifts. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. 126 Duckworth St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, St., St. John's. Phone 709-738-4444. http://www.obriensboattours.com. Canada Phone: 709-738-4444 http://www.obriensboattours.com

O'Brien's Music 278 Water St. The oldest store on the oldest street in the one of oldest cities in North St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, America, the family-operated music shop offers a full range of locally produced recordings. You can also buy traditional instruments, from Canada A1C 1B7 accordions to tin whistles. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 Phone: 709-753-8135 am-5 pm. 278 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-8135. http://obriensmusic.com http://obriensmusic.com.

The Travel Bug 197 Water St. This shop offers high-quality travel goods and accessories. Locally St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, made products are featured prominently. There is a second location at Avalon Mall (phone 709-738-8283). Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Canada Sunday noon-5 pm. 197 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-738-8284. Phone: 709-738-8284 Toll-free 888-738-8284. https://www.facebook.com/thetravelbugs. https://www.facebook.com/thetravelbugs

Tickle Trunk 318 Water St. For something unusual, consider the Tickle Trunk, which is actually multiple stores in one. Artisans pool their resources with a wide variety St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, of one-of-a-kind items. Doug Bird's distinctive products (mailboxes to Canada piggy banks) are modeled on the brightly colored row houses you'll see Phone: 709-726-2535 in downtown St. John's. Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am- http://www.holyroodstudios.com 5:30 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. 318 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-726- 2535. http://www.holyroodstudios.com. Tval 280 Water St. If you covet handmade soaps with a Swedish influence, body lotions and St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, mineral make-up, this store will catch your eye. The owners design and produce all products from minerals and plants, many native to Canada A1C 1B1 Newfoundland. Buy off the shelf or customize to your needs. Phone: 709-579-7627 Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. http://www.tvalskincare.com 280 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-579-7627. http://www.tvalskincare.com.

Itinerary

Day Trips

The Irish Loop. The drive around the southern Avalon Peninsula has been christened the Irish Loop by locals. The name is fitting, as almost all of the communities there were settled by Irish immigrants. The coastline along St. Mary's Bay, in particular, is reminiscent of the Emerald Isle. Drive south from St. John's on Route 10 and you will reach Route 90.

You'll pass through Bay Bulls where you can visit the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (offshore). Depending on the season you should be able to see either whales or icebergs from this spot. Drive with caution; caribou don't pay attention to traffic laws. Ferryland, an archaeological dig site (http://www.ferryland.com), La Manche Provincial Park, the historic lighthouse at Cape Race, Trepassey, St. Vincent's, O'Donnell's and St. Joseph's are all along this route. Do make time to visit Salmonier Nature Park as well. Phone 709-334-2609. http://www.theirishloop.com.

The Baccalieu Trail Loop. The closest entry near St. John's to the Baccalieu Trail Loop is off the Trans-Canada Highway (Exit 31). Route 70 cuts through Conception Bay communities, and connects with Route 60 to . You'll see Hawthorne Cottage (the birthplace of Arctic explorer Captain Bob Bartlett) and Cupids (the first English settlement in Canada). Alternately, travelers can also begin in Trinity Bay by taking Route 80 at Whitbourne and end at Roaches Line or in Conception Bay at Brigus. http://www.the-baccalieu-trail.com.

From Brigus, follow routes 60 and 70 along to South River and Clarke's Beach to Bay Roberts and Harbour Grace, where Amelia Earhart took off for her solo flight across the Atlantic in 1932. From Harbour Grace continue on to . Along the route you'll also find Heart's Content (where the first trans-Atlantic telegraph cable was landed in 1866) and the Baccalieu Island Ecological Reserve, a protected habitat for an amazing variety of seabirds and wildlife. Along Route 80 you'll drive through Dildo, and continuing south on Route 81 you reach Markland, where you can enjoy kosher wine at Rodrigues Markland Cottage Winery.

The Marine Drive of the Killick Coast. This is one of the oldest roads in Newfoundland. It begins in St. John's on Highway 30 (Logy Bay Road) and meets Highway 20 in Torbay. It meanders through small communities, past lighthouses and provides amazing views of elevated cliffs and rugged beaches. On your journey you can visit Logy Bay, Flat Rock and Pouch Cove (pronounced Pooch), some of the oldest settlements in Newfoundland. Don't forget your camera and stop often to take pictures. After all, this is the most picturesque drive within Newfoundland.

If you're feeling adventurous, Highway 20 ends at a road leading to the rugged Cape St. Francis. You can also head to Portugal Cove where you can take a 20-minute ferry to Bell Island. Visitors love Conception Bay for the scenery along Route 60, but Foxtrap, Kelligrews and the T'Railway walking trail are also favorite stops on the way to Upper Gullies, Seal Cove and Butter Pot Provincial Park near Holyrood.

To Cape Spear. Cape Spear is home to the most easterly point of North America and the oldest existing lighthouse in Newfoundland. The Cape Spear Drive follows along Blackhead Road, and you might consider a side trip to Maddox Cove, Petty Harbour—a small outport less than 10 minutes away from St. John's.

To the Cape Shore. For the Cape Shore, take Route 100 to Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve seabird sanctuary—a must-see stop. Follow the road along to St. Bride's, Point Verde and Placentia. Castle Hill National Historic Site, the site of a former French fortification, is of special interest to history buffs. From there, continue to Argentia, where you can catch a ferry to North Sydney, , during the summer. Route 100 through Dunville completes this drive.

From spring through early fall, boat tours in St. John's and nearby communities (especially Bay Bulls and Witless Bay) offer excellent opportunities to see whales, puffins and other marine creatures. A number of tours are available to appeal to the outdoor enthusiast. The St. John's Tourism Office at 348 Water St. (phone 709- 576-8106) has a full list of options. O'Brien's Whale and Bird Tours 22 Lower Road This company has earned an excellent reputation for its guided boat tours from Bay Bulls (a 30-minute drive south from St. John's) to the St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, protected bird colony at Witless Bay. Whale sightings are frequent, and Canada A0A 1C0 the tour guides are happy to help guests watch for fins as they spin Phone: 709-753-4850 outlandish fish yarns. Coastal adventure tours using smaller, faster http://www.obriensboattours.com vessels are also available. A gift store with local crafts and a restaurant specializing in seafood are on-site. 22 Lower Road, St. John's. Phone 709-753-4850. Toll-free 877-639-4253. http://www.obriensboattours.com. Stan Cook Sea Kayak Adventures 67 Circular Road Offers day trips and all-inclusive vacations. Even though you'll trek through rugged terrain and may encounter more weather in a day than St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, most folks see in a year, comfort is key with this company. It provides all Canada A1C 2Z4 the equipment, instruction and food that you'll need. Prices vary. 67 Phone: 709-579-6353 Circular Road, St. John's. Phone 709-579-6353. Toll-free 888-747- http://www.wildnfld.ca/adventures.asp 6353. http://www.wildnfld.ca/adventures.asp.

St. John's Haunted Hike St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, The hike departs from the Gothic steps of the Anglican Cathedral on Church Hill and takes a meandering tour through the back pages of St. Canada John's spookier history. Local author Dale Jarvis leads tours. Wear Phone: 709-685-3444 comfortable and be prepared for cooling temperatures. The http://www.hauntedhike.com rolling mist, while cool, will send shivers up your spine for more than one reason. Late May to mid-September Sunday-Thursday at 9:30 pm. Tours vary by day. Can$10 adults, Can$5 children age 12 and younger. No need to book ahead. Visit the website for group booking information. Phone 709-685-3444. http://www.hauntedhike.com.

The Outfitters Adventures 220 Water St. Newfoundland has more than 5,985 mi/9,655 km of diverse coastline just waiting to be explored. In the early summer, you can kayak past St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, floating icebergs and migrating whales. The Outfitters offers suitable Canada A1C 1A9 tours for beginners and pros, but it warns visitors to go prepared for all Phone: 709-579-4453 four seasons; you never know what might blow in from the Atlantic. https://theoutfitters.worldsecuresystems.com Monday-Wednesday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Three-hour sea kayaking tour costs Can$69 (plus extra charge of Can$25 for transportation). 220 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-579-4453. Toll-free 800-966-9658. https://theoutfitters.worldsecuresystems.com.

Wildland Tours 124 Water St. A diverse range of adventure tourism packages is available, with expert guides. A major adventure-travel magazine has hailed this company as St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, one of the North American tour-outfitting companies. Tours are Canada A1C 5J9 offered from the St. John's area and include specializations for wildlife, Phone: 709-722-3123 whale study, culinary adventures and more. 124 Water St., St. John's. http://www.wildlands.com Phone 709-722-3123. Toll-free 888-615-8279. http://www.wildlands.com.

Day 1—Become acquainted with the history and culture of St. John's. Visit the waterfront area, preferably on foot, making stops at Cabot Tower on Signal Hill and the . Sample cod cakes, beans and other Newfoundland dishes at Velma's for lunch, and then photograph the jellybean-colored rowhouses on Gower Street. For dinner, try one of the many downtown restaurants. Afterward, visit some of the pubs on George Street where traditional Newfoundland music is performed. If you feel inclined, become an honorary Newfoundlander through a Screech-In ceremony.

Day 2—Head down the Southern Shore for a day of wildlife and history. In Ferryland, visit the fascinating archaeological dig and museum at the Colony of Avalon and the restored Ferryland Lighthouse. During summer, you can grab a picnic lunch from Lighthouse Picnics (closed Monday and Tuesday; phone 709-363-7456). In the afternoon, arrange a tour in nearby Bay Bulls to see seabirds, whales and icebergs, or stop at the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve.

Day 3—Start your day at Quidi Vidi Lake, and then head to The Rooms for some culture. For lunch, try the city's fish-and-chips at a mainstay such as Leo's Restaurant and Take-Out. In the afternoon, put aside some time for shopping at the dozens of boutiques and gift shops. Spend the evening in a cozy but upscale restaurant such as Chinched before revisiting the busy establishments on George Street.

DINING

Dining Overview

In St. John's, as throughout the province, you'll have plenty of opportunities to try a scoff, a large meal of local cooking, often centered on seafood such as cod, salmon, trout or halibut. Specialties include seafood chowder, cod au gratin, cod tongues and cheeks, and a variety of desserts with local partridgeberries and blueberries.

Brewis (pronounced “brews”) and Atlantic salmon are also popular local dishes. You can wash them down with iceberg vodka (made from water harvested from icebergs) or one of several locally made beers.

If you're looking for some down-to-earth fare, try one of the local fish-and-chips shops (some say St. John's serves the best in the world).

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than Can$15; $$ = Can$15-$25; $$$ = Can$26-$35; and $$$$ = more than Can$35.

Chinched 5 Bates Hill Chinched—which means to be stuffed tightly or all full up—gets rave St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, reviews for its casual, fine dining with a focus on Newfoundland fare. Desserts, pastries and breads are made from scratch. Tuesday- Canada A1C 4B5 Saturday 11 am-9 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 5 Bates Hill, St. Phone: 709-722-3100 John's. Phone 709-722-3100. https://www.chinched.com. https://www.chinched.com

Get Stuffed 190 Duckworth St. The idea for Get Stuffed is to leave full, whether you nosh on the house macaroni-and-cheese, mussels in a bourbon broth or risotto balls. Some St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, dishes offer both a standard and a larger size (also known as "get Canada A1C 1G5 stuffed"), and the dining room features a long, cushioned bench on one Phone: 709-757-2480 side. Service is friendly and attentive. Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday https://www.facebook.com/getstuffedsj noon-9 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 190 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-757-2480. https://www.facebook.com/getstuffedsj.

Leo's Restaurant and Take-Out 27 Freshwater Road The secret to this fish-and-chips mainstay (it's been around for more than 60 years) is the crispy, house-made batter, used with only the St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, freshest fish. Monday-Thursday and Saturday 11:30 am-7 pm, Friday Canada A1C 2N 11:30 am-8 pm. $. 27 Freshwater Road, St. John's. Phone 709-726- Phone: 709-726-2658 2658. http://brminc.wixsite.com/leos. http://brminc.wixsite.com/leos

Oliver's 160 Water St. An eclectic mix of fine dining, ethnic fare and traditional Newfoundland St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, offerings tucked into a cozy cafe in the downtown area. The building alone is worth the visit, as it's where the women's suffrage movement Canada A1C 1A9 began in Newfoundland. Great for a midafternoon respite from Phone: 709-754-6444 shopping. Daily 10:30 am-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 160 http://www.olivers-cafe.com Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-754-6444. http://www.olivers-cafe.com.

Asian

Basho Restaurant and Lounge 283 Duckworth St. The resident chef, whose parents are from Japan, worked under the St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, tutelage of culinary guru Nobu and sizzles up his own fine Japanese fare. Think "Japanese fusion beyond sushi"—the menu of this eclectic Canada restaurant and lounge has been known to include caribou steak and Phone: 709-576-4600 other surprises. It's a visual treat, too, loaded with family heirlooms from a painter grandfather, which mesh with this sleek, hip eatery. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 283 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-576-4600.

India Gate 286 Duckworth St. The large menu is a mix of spicy lamb vindaloo, rich butter chicken and a few Canadian-style dishes. Vegetarians will find plenty of choices St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, there, and at lunch time the restaurant offers a buffet. Wednesday- Canada A1C1H3 Friday 11:30 am-1:30 pm and 5 pm-9:30 pm, Tuesday, Saturday and Phone: 709-753-6006 Sunday 5-9:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major https://www.indiagatenl.ca credit cards. 286 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-753-6006. https://www.indiagatenl.ca.

Sun Sushi 186 Duckworth St. Inexpensive Japanese cuisine is served in a dinerlike setting. Monday- Friday 11:30 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon-9 pm. Reservations St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 186 Duckworth St., St. Canada A1C 1G5 John's. Phone 709-739-5188. https://www.sunsushirestaurant.com. Phone: 709-739-5188 https://www.sunsushirestaurant.com

Tavola 178 Water St. Postmodern Mediterranean flavors are created in this intimate resto where the menu changes weekly. The owners use fresh ingredients and St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, whip up sensational dishes that will not disappoint. You might find crispy Canada A1C 1A9 fried calamari or AAA tenderloin in a spicy beef tartare. Tuesday- Phone: 709-754-1678 Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-9:30 pm. Reservations available. http://tavolaonwater.ca $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 178 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709- 754-1678. http://tavolaonwater.ca.

Vegetarian

The Sprout 364 Duckworth St. Vegans and vegetarians will enjoy the low-cost, high-flavor meals. Try St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, its unique spin on poutine. Tuesday and Wednesday 11:30 am-8:30 pm, Thursday 11:30 am-3 am, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-4 am. $. Most Canada A1C 1H5 major credit cards. 364 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-579-5485. Phone: 709-579-5485 http://thesproutrestaurant.com. http://thesproutrestaurant.com

Coffee Matters 1 Military Road A cozy coffee shop with good Wi-Fi, Coffee Matters sits at the corner of Gower Street and Military Road. Stop by and meet some locals after St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, wandering through the Government House gardens. It's often busy with Canada students. Monday-Wednesday 8 am-5 pm, Thursday and Friday 8 am-9 Phone: 709-753-6980 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-6 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1 http://www.coffeematters.ca Military Road, St. John's. Phone 709-753-6980. http://www.coffeematters.ca.

Magnum & Stein 329 Duckworth St. Have some tapas in the bar while you wait for a table. The eclectic St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, menu varies from seafood favorites to bison but generally focuses on what's fresh and local. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Canada A1C 1G9 Saturday and Sunday for dinner only. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit Phone: 709-576-6500 cards. 329 Duckworth St., St. John's. Phone 709-576-6500. http://www.magnumandsteins.ca http://www.magnumandsteins.ca.

Blue on Water 319 Water St. This place offers one of the best nighttime views of the city: The wall St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, facing Water Street is made of glass. On the inside, the menu is slanted heavily toward seafood, with lively approaches to flavor. Servings are Canada A1C 1B9 ample and delicious. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-10 Phone: 709-754-2583 pm, Sunday 9 am-9 pm. $$$-$$$$. 319 Water St., St. John's. Phone http://www.blueonwater.com 709-754-2583. Toll-free 877-431-2583. http://www.blueonwater.com.

Ches's Famous Fish and Chips 9 Freshwater Road For traditional fish-and-chips, try this family-run business that has been in St. John's for more than half a century. In addition to its Freshwater St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Road location that opened in 1958, it has three other sites in St. John's: Canada A1C 2N1 655 Topsail Road, 8 Highland Drive and 207 . Sunday- Phone: 709-722-4083 Wednesday until 1 am, Thursday-Saturday until 2 am. 9 Freshwater http://www.chessfishandchips.ca Road, St. John's. Phone 709-722-4083. http://www.chessfishandchips.ca.

Nautical Nellies 201 Water St. You'll feel as if you've just entered the neighborhood pub—and you'll be St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, right. This place is a favorite of the locals. Great drinks, fresh seafood such as pan-seared cod, and a friendly atmosphere. Daily for lunch and Canada dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch also. $-$$. Most major credit Phone: 709-738-1120 cards. 201 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-738-1120.

SECURITY Personal Safety

St. John's is a moderate-sized city and considered safe. Still, tourists should practice basic safety precautions, such as locking their cars and hotel rooms. Be careful late at night, especially walking in the downtown area. Tourist facilities are widely available throughout the province, and the rustic fishing villages live up to their reputations for friendly hospitality.

If you're camping or canoeing through the wilderness, pay close attention to the fire danger and have a plan ready if the forest is exceptionally dry. Keep your food in a secure place and never dispose of refuse near your campsite—it's an open invitation to be woken, or worse, by curious animals. Always have a first-aid kit with you and use common sense, such as wearing a life while on the water. Be aware that many areas of the province are rural, and cellular phone service is not as widely available as it is in more populated areas.

Don't underestimate weather conditions when planning outdoor activities. Avoid hiking on Signal Hill and all rocky terrain during foggy conditions. Rainy weather, high winds and snow also can pose serious consequences for hikers. If unsure, consult an outfitting company before setting out. Even if they're not supplying your gear, they'll be more than happy to prevent an inexperienced hiker from having an accident.

Keep in mind that the Atlantic Ocean is not safe for swimming, unless you are in the protected coves of Conception Bay. Take extra precautions as you approach the ocean from popular vistas such as Cape Spear and Middle Cove, a beautiful rocky beach just north of the city limits. Huge rogue waves can take you by surprise.

It's best to always wear insect repellent when outside. Sunscreen is also highly recommended during the summer months, as are rain and rain wear during showers and parkas, toques, mitts and warm boots during winter.

Be aware that the areas around St. John's are fairly remote, and the farther you travel outside the city the longer it will take EMTs to reach you in the event of an emergency. Out-of-country tourists should have health insurance to cover any medical expenses.

All emergency assistance in Canada can be reached by dialing 911. Good medical care is available in most places throughout the province. Two hospitals in the St. John's area offer walk-in emergency room service. St. Clare's Hospital, at 154 LeMarchant Road, is closer to downtown hotels (phone 709-777-5000). The General Hospital in the Health Sciences Centre, at 300 Prince Philip Drive and near Memorial University, is the province's largest hospital (phone 709-777-6300).

The number for the Mental Health Crisis Line is 709-737-4668.

With its rolling (and sometimes steep) hills, downtown St. John's can pose a challenge for visitors with physical limitations. Provincial government regulations include accessibility rules (which include public transportation—the Metrobus), although older buildings may pose difficulty in gaining access.

The city-issued brochure Active Living Guide is available for download and upon request in Braille and large print as well as audio format. Contact Inclusion Services by phoning 709-576-4450 or visit http://www.stjohns.ca/publications.

Independent Living Resource Centre 4 Escasoni Place This drop-in resource center designed for people with disabilities offers peer support, research and development, public Internet access and St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, helpful brochures, among other services. The website also provides Canada A1A 3R6 valuable links to other community organizations. Open Monday-Friday Phone: 709-722-4031. 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 4 Escasoni Place, St. John's. Phone 709-722-4031. http://www.ilrc-nl.ca TTY 709-722-7998. Toll-free 866-722-4031. http://www.ilrc-nl.ca.

Don't confuse St. John's, Newfoundland, with Saint John, New Brunswick. Locals in both cities don't appreciate being mistaken for their counterparts.

Don't go big-game hunting without a licensed guide, as provincial law requires all nonresident hunters to have one. Canada has very strict gun- control laws: No revolvers, pistols or fully automatic firearms are allowed.

Don't be surprised if you experience extremes of weather in a short period, and be careful driving in the winter—roads can become ice-packed and hazardous. Call ahead for local road conditions. Consult local newspapers and radio stations for tide information.

Don't be surprised if the cod you kiss while getting "Screeched-in" is a toy one, or a puffin.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air or land to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Australia, the U.K., Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure. Population: 196,966.

Languages: English.

Predominant Religions: Christian.

Time Zone: 3.5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-3.5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 709, area code;

Currency Exchange

Most commercial banks offer money-changing services. On Water Street, you will find major branches for Scotiabank, TD, RBC, Bank of Montreal, CIBC and more. All will exchange currency and cash traveler's checks.

Many tourist-focused shops (generally those close to the harborfront) will accept U.S. dollars at their own exchange rate.

There is a 13% harmonized sales tax in Newfoundland and Labrador, although some sales to nonresidents may be exempt. A 3% hotel tax is in effect in St. John's. Tip 15% in restaurants, unless superior service warrants more. An easy way to calculate the tip is to pay a little more than the tax (increase tip to 20% if the service was outstanding). Service providers (bell hops, hairdressers, taxi drivers) also expect the same gratuity. Customary tip for tour guides and motor-coach drivers is Can$1-$2 per day, per person.

Weather

St. John's is Canada's gold winner for most challenging weather conditions. It is the foggiest and windiest city in Canada, and among the top five for most freezing rain, least sunshine and coolest summers. It does, however, have a relatively mild winter. So, although you may have to deal with mountains of snow, it'll be mild enough to get outside and actually enjoy them. Summer is the most enjoyable time to visit St. John's. It can be foggy, but temperatures are generally warm (highs around 68 F/20 C) during the day, with nights in the low 50s F/10-11 C. Rain is common throughout the summer months, and fog sweeps in regularly. Early fall is cooler, with highs around 60 F/15-16 C in September. A warm will be useful any time of year.

Remember that if you're on the island of Newfoundland, you will never be more than 62 mi/100 km from the ocean. Many travelers are surprised by how cool the wind feels, even though the temperature is warm. Fog moves in fast and can take you by surprise in any season, though most often in spring and summer. Expect cool temperatures and always, always pack at least light rain gear. Many of the major storms and hurricanes that cross the southern U.S. unleash their fury in Newfoundland before heading out to the Atlantic Ocean. While temperatures there are cooler than the rest of Canada, people from Newfoundland refer to their climate as character-building and invigorating.

Winter can be stormy, though the Atlantic moderates the cold, sometimes turning the snow to rain or sleet. Only hardy travelers who don't mind weather-related inconveniences should visit then.

Casual- Fridays have been adopted by most businesses across Canada, relaxing even the conservative attire found in larger centers. is welcome in St. John's year-round, but you will need to prepare for quick changes in weather, even in summer. Because of its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, a small change in wind direction can bring fog and cool winds.

Dress in layers. A sweater or pullover is always a good addition, and a rainproof jacket is handy. While the thermometer may call for short sleeves, cool Atlantic breezes can make the air feel colder. Fall weather is cool but often pleasant. In winter, be prepared for freezing rain and icy sidewalks.

On the streets, you'll see a wide range of attire from stilettos to punk rock, but most people keep it casual in Newfoundland. is a staple in the Atlantic provinces, and boots are a (and survival) necessity during the winter months. No matter what season, think layers when packing for Newfoundland. Even at the peak of humidity in summer, nights often cool off enough to warrant a sweater or light jacket.

Men often wear sweaters in place of a sport , but a collared shirt should still be visible at the neck when visiting upscale establishments. Some places still have a "no running shoes, no " policy in effect, so call ahead if that's a concern. Very few restaurants have formal dress codes, but social convention mandates at least a sportcoat in fine-dining establishments.

If you're traveling in the winter, be sure to pack a toque and mitts to go with your boots. If you don't have any, pick up a Canadian-made toque when you arrive—they're the warmest in the world.

Telephone

Pay phones are more widely available in St. John's than in most cities, especially in public buildings or at the airport. They accept cards or coins. To call anywhere within Newfoundland, you must dial 10 digits (an area code and a seven-digit number). Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 888, 877 or 866.

City information in St. John's is 311. Directory assistance is 411; emergency is 911. Internet access is readily available by both Wi-Fi and plug-in. Many bed-and-breakfasts and hotels offer Internet access to clients, as do some coffee shops. Free public Internet access is available at the public library at the , a complex on Allandale Road.

Wi-Fi is becoming more common in Newfoundland. The technology and availability is constantly changing; if you need connectivity while visiting the province, ask the concierge when booking your lodging.

You can access free Wi-Fi at the visitor information center at 348 Water St. (May-October daily 9 am-4:30 pm), and coffee shops such as Tim Hortons (various locations, including 253 Duckworth St. and 235 Water St.), Starbucks (215 Water St., Atlantic Place) and Coffee Matters (1 Military Road).

There are postal outlets in most major shopping centers and often in convenience or drug stores. Visit the Canadian postal system website if you know the postal code of the place you'll be visiting (they are listed by postal code). http://www.canadapost.ca.

There is a downtown post office at 354 Water St., open Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm. Toll-free 866-607-6301.

The Telegram is the daily newspaper in St. John's. It publishes community activity listings on Thursday and entertainment listings on Friday. http://www.thetelegram.com.

The Muse, a free weekly from the local Memorial University, provides information on current events, youth culture and plenty of entertainment listings. Available directly from the university, online or at select off-beat shops across town. http://www.themuse.ca.

The Scope is a free, hip alternative news magazine. Produced monthly, it is distributed at hundreds of locations in St. John's and surrounding communities. Great for dining, entertainment and nightlife listings. http://thescope.ca.

SNAP St. John's is a free monthly newspaper focusing on all things community-related. This is where you'll find the scoop on local entrepreneurs and other community happenings. Copies are available at various restaurants and shops throughout St. John's. http://www.snapstjohns.com.

The Independent is an online news magazine with daily updates about news and events in St. John's. http://theindependent.ca.

Transportation

St. John's is a good city for walking. Most downtown attractions are within a short distance of one another and in close proximity to restaurants, hotels and museums. Bus

DRL Coachlines operates daily service between Port aux Basques and St. John's, making a total of 25 stops. For in-city outings, (see Public Transportation below) is all you'll need. http://www.drl-lr.com. We suggest renting a car during your visit, even if St. John's is your principal destination. With a vehicle at your disposal, you can more easily make day trips out of the city. The main roadway in Newfoundland is Highway 1 (the TransCanada Highway), which begins in St. John's and runs west across the island to Port aux Basques. The legal driving age is 16, but you need to be 21 to rent a car.

Be sure to buckle up—provincial law requires it. You are also required by law to keep children who weigh less than 80 pounds, measure under 57 in/145 cm and are younger than 8 years old in a certified safety restraint. Visitors traveling through the province are not exempt, so be prepared.

Be extra cautious driving along wooded highways, particularly at dawn and dusk, as moose crossing the roads are fairly common, and quickly moving fog can add an element of danger. Drive at a reasonable speed and heed caution signs in the areas where animals are most frequently spotted.

If you plan to stay in the city core, you can leave the car parked; everything is within walking distance.

There is no direct ferry service to St. John's, but a ferry runs three times a week mid-June to mid-September between North Sydney, Nova Scotia, and Argentia (a town about 80 mi/130 km west of St. John's). Daily year- round service to Port aux Basques (559 mi/900 km from St. John's by ferry) is also available. Reservations are required. http://www.marine-atlantic.ca. Metrobuses provide transportation throughout St. John's at Can$2.25 a ticket and make stops at many of the popular attractions. Buses run daily on more than 20 city routes. Phone 709-722-9400 for route information. http://www.metrobus.com. More than 300 taxis serve the city of St. John's and are easily reached by phone. It's better to call for a cab than to try to hail one from a sidewalk.

Reputable taxi companies include City Wide (phone 709-722-0003), Co-op Taxi (phone 709-726-6666) and Bugden's Taxi (phone 709-722-4400).

For More Information

Recommended Reading

Scenic Driving Atlantic Canada by Chloe Ernst (GPP Travel). Haunted Shores by Dale Jarvis (Flanker Press). Newfoundland and Labrador Book of Everything by Martha Walls (MacIntyrePurcell Publishing).

This Marvellous Terrible Place by Yva Momatiuk and John Eastcott (Firefly Books).

The City of St. John's Department of Economic Development and 348 Water St. Tourism St John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, This office can help you with tour information and maps. Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm. 348 Water St., St. John's. Phone 709-576-8394. Canada A1C 5M2 http://www.stjohns.ca. Phone: 709-576-8394 http://www.stjohns.ca

EVENTS

Calendar

St. John's holds its civic holiday on 24 June—the feast day of St. John the Baptist.

A key time to visit St. John's is during the end of July and the first week of August when St. John's Time, an 11-day festival celebrating all things Newfoundland, takes place. It encompasses four of the city's summer festivals—the George Street Festival, the Royal St. John's Regatta, St. John's Downtown Busker Festival and the Annual Folk Festival. http://www.stjohnstime.ca.

St. John's hosts what is considered the oldest continuous sporting event in North America. The earliest documentation for the Royal St. John's Regatta—a day of rowing races held on the first Wednesday in August—dates back to 1818. Held on the first Wednesday of August, it attracts thousands of spectators. The George Street Festival is usually scheduled just before the regatta, with a full week of daytime and evening outdoor concerts. The popular George Street entertainment district, consisting of dozens of pubs, clubs and restaurants, closes to traffic during the festival.

Targa Newfoundland, a 1,367-mi/2,200-km car rally through the province, begins and ends in St. John's every September.

The Newfoundland and Labrador Folk Festival is held the first weekend in August in Bannerman Park, near downtown St. John's. The three-day festival offers a mix of traditional, Celtic, jazz and bluegrass music. It also includes workshops and open jams.

Other music festivals held during the summer months include the Wreckhouse International Jazz and Blues festival (http://wreckhousejazzandblues.com) and the Sound Symposium (http://www.soundsymposium.com). The Signal Hill Tattoo is a historical animation program staged with foot soldiers, artillery and fife and drum band. http://www.rnchs.ca/tattoo.

Another popular event during the summer months is Shakespeare by the Sea (July and August), held in several venues across town. If visiting later in the year, check out the Halloween Mardi Gras celebration on George Street.

Additional event information is available from The City of St. John's (http://www.stjohns.ca), Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism (http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com), George Street Live (http://www.georgestreetlive.ca) and Destination St. John's (http://www.destinationstjohns.com).