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Address Coordinator: Membership

Vandervoort S. Frances Editor: Editor:

Name Knack Ruth President: President: advocating for the landmarking of the Carl Hansberry House. Hansberry Carl the of landmarking the for advocating

Library murals; Ishmael Smith, teacher Stacy Stewart, and Bryanna Stalling with their Despres Awards for successfully successfully for Awards Despres their with Stalling Bryanna and Stewart, Stacy teacher Smith, Ishmael murals; Library

893 3-1 HY Telephone: Telephone: 00 1 $ Benefactor $30 Member left to right: Peter Schoenmann, Elizabeth Kendall, and Lesa Dowd with their Despres Awards for restoring the Blackstone Blackstone the restoring for Awards Despres their with Dowd Lesa and Kendall, Elizabeth Schoenmann, Peter right: to left

hydeparkhistory.org Despres; Lisa Oppenheim and Frank Valadez receive their Cornell Award for the Chicago Metro History Fair. Bottom row, row, Bottom Fair. History Metro Chicago the for Award Cornell their receive Valadez Frank and Oppenheim Lisa Despres; Web site: site: Web Sponsor $50 Sponsor 5 1 $ Student

Top row, left to right: Caroline Cracraft thanks the Society for her Cornell Award for her chronicle of Leon and Marian Marian and Leon of chronicle her for Award Cornell her for Society the thanks Cracraft Caroline right: to left row, Top

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➤ 1 in October, 2009, but his spirit lives on in his attention to housing segregation in cities. Issues Haydon—he’s the one who designed all those stained music, his professional accomplishments, and his surrounding the house became the basis of a 1940 U. glass windows for Rockefeller Chapel and then got UPCOMING EVENTS commitment to the community. S. Supreme Court ruling against racially restrictive someone to teach us Hyde Park volunteers how to cut Paul Cornell Awards were bestowed upon Caroline housing covenants. the glass and make the windows. For several decades Saturday, April 17, 2010 Lecture by Dr. Cracraft for chronicling the life and times of Leon and Elaine Smith’s piano playing provided pre-dinner Doug Anderson has led people on bird walks on Gregory Mueller of the University of Marian Despres, and upon the Chicago Metro History music and accompaniment for Noel Taylor’s songs from Wooded Island. One time a new young professor, a Chicago and Chicago Botanic Garden: Education Center for inspiring young people to learn G. and S. operas. She also accompanied Helen Bailey’s refugee from Russia, climbed a willow tree over the The Fungus Among Us: Nature and Man more about Chicago’s history, especially that of Hyde vocal tribute to Bob Ashenhurst. lagoon and sang Russian folk songs. in the Big City. The lecture will take Park. “Oh, come on,” I said. “Let’s go. It’s going to be place from 2-4 p.m. in the Community Marian and Leon Despres Preservation Awards were okay. Who’s going to attack two young mothers and Lounge of the University of Chicago’s granted to the group of experts involved in restoring their children?” So we set off. Center for Multicultural Affairs, 5710 and preserving the historic murals in the dome of the It was a beautiful day on the Island. Spring breezes South Woodlawn Avenue. Blackstone Library, and to students and their teacher New Society Members tossed the leaves of the willows and oak trees, planted Also on April 17, the 20th Annual Quilt from the Amelia Earhart School who advocated for at the time of the Columbian Exposition. Wild grasses Show and Sale will take place at the landmark status from the Chicago City Council for the The Hyde Park Historical Society welcomes the and flowers greeted us as we crossed over the arched United Church of Hyde Park, 1448 East Hansberry House in West Woodlawn. This modest following new members: David R. Ashenhurst, bridge to the Island. Birds sang of the beauty of the day. 53rd Street, from 10 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. home was the residence of Carl Hansberry and his Bruce Carroll, JoAnn Scurlock and Richard H. We hiked along the quiet path to a grassy plot far family, including his daughter, Lorraine Hansberry, Beal, Solvig and Harry Robertson, Mel Von H. from the rushing traffic on the nearby highway. We On Sunday, April 18, architectural whose 1959 play, Raisin in the Sun, called national Smith, Mary Silverstein and Deborah Wahid. spread our picnic and enjoyed a quiet lunch. Then the historian Sam Guard will lead his four children frolicked in the sunshine. My friend was second tour of Hyde Park buildings facing the willows that leaned over the lagoon in a designed by the Pond Brothers. The deep thicket of bushes—a favorite place of fishermen. tour will begin at the southeast corner “It is beautiful here,” my friend finally said. of 55th Street and Woodlawn Ave. at Suddenly a look of terror spread over her face. I 1:00 p.m. turned to see what had frightened her. An ancient man was coming slowly out of the bushes. He wore a ragged Saturday, May 15, 2010 Carol Bradford dark coat distinguished by its large, decorated brass will give a special talk commemorating buttons dangling, one missing. He carried a bucket, a the 150th anniversary of the United fish knife, a pole, and a few fish on a line. “He won’t Church of Hyde Park. She will illustrate hurt us,” I assured her. her talk with nearly 100 glass plate He came closer. He smiled at the children. “Would photographs taken during the first 50 you like to see what I have in my bucket?” he asked. years of the Hyde Park Presbyterian The children were timid. “Don’t be afraid,” he said. He Church, founded in May, 1860. dumped out several small crayfish. “Thought you kids Photography expert Joe Marlin will use might like to play with my left-over bait.” a special projector for these unusual Relieved, my friend said, “Sure. Thanks.” The baby images. was afraid of the crayfish. So the man reached into his pocket. “Here,” he said, handing the baby a large brass The major June event will be a showing button. His sister began to cry, seeing that her little of Hyde Park-related exhibits from the brother had been given a shiny button to play with. Chicago Metro History Fair. Watch for Suddenly the old man pulled out his long knife. the announcement of the date. My friend froze in horror. The old man calmly turned the knife toward himself, cut a second button from Details of these events will be provided his coat, and gave it to the crying child. She stopped by mail and on the Society’s website. crying. g han The old man walked quietly away. Post script: I wrote this story many years ago. If that old man is still around, I want to thank him for Answer to Mystery Quiz:

y M a r c Mo na restoring my faith in the kindness of human nature. The previous two observatories of the University of Vi Fogle Uretz was a longtime member of the Hyde Park Chicago were the Dearborn Observatory of the first

ogr aphs b University of Chicago, built in the 1860s at 34th

t Historical Society who passed away in May, 2007. This Street and Cottage Grove Avenue, and the Kenwood

ph o article was made available to Hyde Park History by her Observatory, built in the early 1890s behind the Top row, left to right: Alta Blakely is designated an HPHS Board Member Emerita by Carol Bradford; Roland Bailey tells husband, Robert Uretz, and was first published in the Hyde the history of the Gilbert and Sullivan Opera Company of Hyde Park. Bottom row, left to right: Helen Bailey sings a tribute Park Herald on December 24, 2003. It is published here with George Ellery Hale House at 4545 South Drexel to Robert Ashenhurst; Noel Taylor is the Pirate King of the Pirates of Penzance. the permission of the Hyde Park Herald. Boulevard.

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➤ ➤ 5 sometimes spelled coigns or coins, are small slabs to remarks by Sam Guard and Tim Samuelson about Other professors arrived and built their homes up and of limestone or arrangements of offset bricks, placed Pond-designed houses on the east side of the street A Childhood down Woodlawn and Lexington Avenue (now University in the corners of buildings at regular intervals to add between 55th and 57th Streets. The final stop was for a Avenue), from 55th Street to the Midway. Soon there was strength and detail to the overall structure. The quoins careful look at the unusual six-flat apartment building in Early quite a group of children my age in our block, all boys of the Thompson house are handsome indeed. at 5515 South Woodlawn Avenue 55th Street. Instead except for Clarinda Buck and me. Thanks to my brother, The walls of the third floor surround the windows of the traditional side-by-side placement of the sets of Hyde Park all boys were kind in allowing us to join their track and extend upward into a peak, all detailed by three apartments in most six-flat apartment buildings, meets and King Arthur tournaments. There were the a diamond-shaped pattern of bricks known as a the two wings of the building are at right angles to By Helen Mathews Miller Jordans, the Bucks, the Herricks, the Vincents, the Loebs diaper. This odd name refers to an array of bricks each other. Sam pointed out that this allows an efficient (who covered their back yard with gravel because it was distinguished by a distinct color and arrangement, as use of space, and showed us how the Ponds used bricks In 1894, my father Shailer more sanitary than grass), the Hales, and the Donaldsons. in this house. How did the term diaper, with which of different textures and tints to construct walls, all Matthews left Colby College In the winter we flooded the yard for ice skating, and new parents are infinitely familiar, come to describe of which added warmth and detail to an otherwise in Waterville, Maine, where built forts and a toboggan slide out of huge snow balls. architectural forms made of bricks? It turns out that bland surface. Also, they opted for dark bricks used he taught history and political We had “hose parties” in hot weather. the word diaper is distantly related to the more ancient for the lowest levels of their buildings. The bricks of economy, to join the new University Papa was in great demand as a lecturer and preacher term, damask, a fabric woven with rich, sometimes this building are particularly dark because they were of Chicago being built under the presidency of at colleges and churches all over the country, so he diamond-like patterns. In a more frugal time, mothers fired much longer than ordinary bricks, charring the William Rainey Harper. My father was Dean of the was away from home a great deal. Once I asked him used cloth diapers on their children at a time when outer surface to almost black. Near the very top of the Divinity School for 25 years until his retirement in if speaking to small groups was worthwhile. He said, disposable diapers were a luxury. Parenting manuals building’s walls are, not surprisingly—diapers! 1933. He built the three-story brick house with white “Yes, if I can enlarge their outlook even a little.” He advised that the most absorbent diapers were birdseye The Pond Architectural firm was also responsible for trim at 5736 Woodlawn Avenue. It was said that no was never ordained as a minister, preferring to teach diapers, those woven in a small diamond-like pattern the University Congregational Church, built in 1895 frame houses were permitted after the Great Chicago and write. He was the author of some 20 or more supposedly like the eye of a bird. at the northwest corner of 56th Street and Dorchester Fire of 1871. My mother joined him after the birth books, among them The Social Teachings of Jesus, Is God After a slog through rainy weather, we arrived at the Avenue. It was replaced in the early 1950s by the red of their son and the three of them lived in the old Emeritus?, The Faith of Modernism, The French Revolution, Lillie House on the southwest corner of 58th Street and brick high rise apartment building Hyde Parkers know Del Prado Hotel on 59th and Washington Street, and his autobiography, New Faith for Old. Kenwood Avenue. Tim Samuelson commented that so well. This church, and other buildings designed by (now Blackstone Avenue), while the house was being He was also very active in the Hyde Park Baptist this house, built in 1901, is his favorite of all Pond the Ponds, are all described in this fine book edited by completed. It was the second house on the block. (now Union) Church, was President of the Federal buildings. The house was built in 1901 by University David Swan and Terry Tatum. Woodlawn Avenue was unpaved; cows were pastured Council of Churches, and on the boards of the Northern of Chicago embryologist, Frank Rattray Lillie and his The final stop for this group was the Woodlawn Tap, across the street; rats scurried under the wooden board Baptist Convention, the University of Chicago wife, heiress of wealth from the Crane Company, a not known for its architecture but the perfect place sidewalks, and it must have seemed a dreary spot to Settlement, the Chautauqua Institution, Church Chicago manufacturer of bathroom fixtures. We were to reflect on the talents of the Pond Brothers, who my mother coming from her New England home. The Peace Union, and Kobe College, Japan. He founded unable to go inside, but stood in the drizzle to examine provided Hyde Park with some of the most distinctive house was equipped with both electricity and natural and edited a news magazine, The World Today. My walls detailed by bands of bricks in rows of two, three, buildings in Chicago. FSV gas (“in case the electricity should fail”). The roof mother, too, was busy with outside activities: the or more. I couldn’t help thinking that, if no one were was of slate shingles brought from Maine, as were the Needlework Guild of the World, Camp Farr of the U. looking, these strips and projections might tempt Note: Sam Guard will lead a tour of more Bond buildings kitchen sink and laundry tubs. The interior woodwork of C. Settlement, and Women’s Society of the Baptist aspiring mountain climbers to use these walls to hone in Hyde Park on Sunday, April 18. See Upcoming Events for was the golden oak so popular at that time. There were Church. She was a member of Mrs. George Glessner’s their rock-climbing skills! details. transoms over each bedroom door which could be closed Monday morning reading class at 18th and Prairie From the Lillie house, we walked west on 58th Street or opened for ventilation, and a speaking tube from the Avenue and of the “Once a Weeks,” a group of close to the American School of Education building, built by front bedroom to the kitchen through which one could friends in the neighborhood, one on the board of the the Pond Brothers in 1906 near Drexel Boulevard and send a piercing whistle to attract someone’s attention Chicago Orphan Asylum. ➤ 4 now part of the University of Chicago. This handsome for the message to follow. Two of the bedrooms had gas building was designated a Chicago landmark in 1995, Miracle on grates for extra warmth. The grates gave a great “plop” and was honored with the Society’s Marian and Leon when lighted and smelled faintly of gas. A chute from Despres Preservation Award in 2008. The building’s Wooded Island the 3rd floor bathroom to the basement disposed of dark-paneled lobby, essentially unchanged since its laundry. All the pipes in the house were of lead. construction, has large windows allowing light to enter By Vi Fogle Uretz I was born in 1898 and recently came across the bill

from the south. Leaded glass details these windows as for my delivery by Dr. Frank Carey, $75. My sister Mary t

well as the windows of the inner doors of the vestibule. “Oh, we can’t go there,” my friend said. “It’s too arrived four-and-one-half years later. Up to that time we oor Tim Samuelson amused us with names of some of the dangerous. We might get mugged.” My friend was had had no telephone, depending on the Quadrangle v

American School’s better known graduates, including new to Hyde Park and had heard of the dangers. The Club, then around the corner on 58th Street, for phone ande r members of the Flying Wallenda family, tennis star children looked at us expectantly. They had been calls. With her birth imminent, it was thought wise to . V Andrea Jaeger, and Donny Osmond. promised a day’s outing on Wooded Island—a favorite install our own phone to call the doctor. The Quadrangle The exterior of this building is characterized by place of mine—an island made for the World’s Fair of Club was later moved on rollers across the campus to Pond trademarks, rows of bricks and carefully placed 1893. make way for the Oriental Institute, and the present y P ete r O limestone bands. And, at the very top of the eastern When I was a student at the University of Chicago in club was erected at 57th Street and University Avenue. ogr aph b

flank of the building are diapers! the 1930s, Harold Haydon used to take his watercolor t

After visiting the American School, we headed east, painting class there. We painted pictures of the lagoon, Above: Helen Mathews’ high school graduation photo, ph o then north on Woodlawn Avenue where we were treated the boats, and the ancient willows and oak trees. Harold Correlator, 1916. The Mathews’ house at 5736 S. Woodlawn Avenue.

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➤ 3 Naturally, the faculty children went to the to see what we could find to collect, climbing up Every evening Larry, the lamplighter, would stop his Coins, Diapers, and University Elementary and High School (being given ladders and over loose boards. We specialized in horse in front of our house, lean his ladder up against half-tuition). The school had developed from the old acquiring drops of lead left by the plumbers and the lamp post and light the gas lamp. Fire engines Roasted Bricks: How John Dewey School my brother attended at 58th once were richly rewarded to find a whole cup of lead terrified me as the horses galloped down the street and Ellis. I reveled in classes in art, weaving, clay in the Frank Lloyd Wright House (nicknamed the pulling the steaming engine and hook and ladder; we the Pond Brothers modeling, woodwork, and copper shop, sewing and “Dreadnaught”), then being build across the street. were reassured only when they had passed our house. cooking (for both girls and boys) and especially in Miss The first play I ever went to was The Deceitful Dean, Other familiar sounds were the “uxtra, uxtra” of the Changed the Face Stillwell’s print shop where we set up type by hand given by the student players, The Blackfriars. newsboy calling out some exciting news, and we and printed our own booklets of poems and Greek As a member of the University Athletic Board, Papa would run out to buy a copy of the latest newspaper. of Hyde Park and Norwegian mythology, illustrating them with could get free tickets to all the games. So he, Mr. Bock, We loved all the horses that delivered packages to us: drawings done in our art class. There were the usually Clarinda, and I attended football games in Stagg Field the grocery horse, Marshall Field’s handsome pair of On Sunday, March 7, Chicago architect David Swan academic subjects also, starting French in the 4th and basketball games in Bartlett Gymnasium. dappled grays, and the milk wagon horse. We slipped spoke at HPHS Headquarters to a standing-room-only grade. American history seems to have been somewhat I learned to swim in Mr. Whit’s swimming class lumps of sugar into their feed bags whenever possible. crowd about the book, The Autobiography of Irving K. neglected. We were taken on field trips to the Japanese in the Bartlett Gymnasium pool. Miss Hinman Help seemed to be plentiful: a cook and “scone Pond (Hyoogen Press, Inc. 2010), edited by Swan and tea house on the Wooded Island and to see the Indiana conducted a social dancing class that met in our maid” lived in and a laundress came once a week. Miss his colleague, Terry Tatum, Director of Research for sand dunes to study bugs and weeds. We were taken to various homes. Once a week I rode my bicycle to my McKenzie came Saturday morning to shampoo our the City of Chicago’s Landmark Division. the fire station on 55th Street to see a demonstration of music class with Miss Van Hook on Rosalie Court hair, Miss Helmar once in a while to sew and mend. This dynamic presentation served to remind me instantaneous response to a fire alarm. Also, we visited (now Harper Avenue), and finally learned to play When John Halstrom shoveled snow and tended the furnace why I became a member of the Hyde Park Historical the Lake Michigan shore to view three Spanish ships Morning Gilds the Skies on the piano. in winter and mowed the grass in summer. Society in the first place. When I joined, I fully (the “Caravels”)—reproductions of those in which For Christmas we decorated the tree with strands At Halloween we carved our pumpkin and put it, expected to learn about the architecture of local Columbus sailed when he discovered America, then of popcorn and cranberries, and lighted it with real lighted up, in the oak tree in the back yard. The boys buildings. Like most people in Hyde Park, I was anchored off the land where stood La Rabida Convent. candles that miraculously never caused a fire. I was would sneak up to the Deke (Delta Kappa Epsilon) familiar with Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House. The ships were donated by Spain to the Chicago usually sick with the grippe, and would be brought fraternity house, ring the bell, and run. If caught, they I knew about Louis Sullivan’s Auditorium Theater World’s Fair in 1893. downstairs Christmas morning wrapped in blankets were likely to be held under a cold shower bath. and long had admired the work of Daniel Burnham One day, when I was alone in the house, I decided and full of calomel*. The German band would play The urge to reminisce, once yielded to, is difficult on Michigan Avenue. Although I had been in the to climb down the outside to the ground. I went out the old Christmas music outside each house. In spring to stop. From my eighties, these memories reflect my Quadrangle Club dozens of times, the name of the the window in Papa’s third floor study, dropped to the the scissors sharpener man would appear, ringing his deep gratitude for a childhood spent in this pleasant architect, Howard Van Doren Shaw, meant nothing to small balcony below, climbed over the wooden railing, cheery bells, and the organ grinder, with his flea-ridden and stimulating neighborhood. me. Irving K. Pond’s name had never crossed my lips slid down the downspout to the roof of the front porch, monkey, would arrive. I can still feel the monkey’s icy until I connected his name with the now-landmarked and went to the north end where I could climb over little hand as he clutched my penny and doffed his cap *Calomel, mercurous chloride, is a yellowish-white American School of Education building in the heart the railing and slide down the long post of the porch in thanks. chemical compound once used to treat a variety of of the University of Chicago’s ever-expanding hospital railing below. From there, it was an easy jump from When the wind blew from the northwest, the air ailments, including digestive upsets, skin problems, system. there to the ground, but I confess I arrived shaken. No was filled with the heavy odor of the Stockyards, and syphilis and, obviously, grippe. Being a member of the Society has opened my eyes to one ever mentioned this exploit to me so I assume it we would close all our windows. But all summer the local architectural treasures I might never have noticed was unknown. air was also filled with the beautiful strains of music This essay is taken from a document discovered by Society other than to say, “Hmm—that’s a lovely house. I On spring Saturday mornings, Connie McLaughlin, from across the street as Fanny Bloomfield Zeister, the member, Bert Benade, who found it in papers turned over to wonder who designed it!” or, “I love cupolas—they Clarinda, and I would climb into the low branches of concert pianist, practiced her scales. him by Mary Irons, former Society member. We have learned always remind me of a witch’s castle!” Before I heard of the old willow tree in the field now occupied by Ida We had a “poor family” living on the West Side, to from Helen Miller’s daughter, Mary Louise Williamson, who zoned heating—separate heat sources for different parts Noyes Hall, where we read aloud David Copperfield as whom we gave clothes and food, but whom we never lives in Maryland, that Helen attended Vassar College from of a building—I wondered how owners could afford to we munched gumdrops and horehound candy. Clarinda got to know personally. Yet they served to remind us which she graduated in 1920. She married Louis Miller, with heat the huge homes of Kenwood and Hyde Park. and I sat on the back porch steps reading the endless that many were less fortunate than we were and needed whom she adopted Mrs. Williamson and Mrs. Williamson’s On this day, I set out to learn about the legacy of the Green Fairy, Blue Fairy, and Red Fairy Books, and the help. Many of our neighbors employed Mr. Riley, a sister, Mrs. Olo Kolade, now deceased. She worked for many Ponds. After David Swan’s illustrated lecture, Society Little Colonel books. She believed she was a witch private watchman, to make the rounds at night to years as a social worker for the City of Chicago where she board member Jack Spicer, who organized the event, because she had red hair. Carroll Mason and I were check windows and doors, but it was generally believed supervised the well-being of adopted children. She died in Chicago architectural historian Tim Samuelson, and champion “jack” players, inventing new tricks for that (that the reason) he came around only once a month November, 1997 at age 99, and is buried next to her husband the irrepressible Sam Guard lent their expertise and ancient game. She had a Shetland pony and would take was to collect his modest salary. Once I tested this in the Miller area of an old cemetery in Akron, Ohio. We enthusiasm to a tour of local buildings designed by the me for drives around Washington Park. and strung a black thread from post to post across the are grateful to Ms. Williamson and to Kerry Tulson of the Ponds. The first stop was the 1899 Thompson House Special treats were monthly concerts by the Chicago front porch. It was intact the next morning. Yet no one Alumni Office of the University of Chicago Laboratory School on Blackstone Avenue, now the home of David and Symphony Orchestra in Mandel Hall, and the Fuller thought it wise to dismiss him. for providing this information. Peggy Bevington. The entrance hall of this handsome Sisters who sang old English songs accompanied by Our family belonged to the Hyde Park Baptist (now brick building, graced by serene arches and dark harpsichord and harp. Sunday afternoons the children on Union) Church. After Sunday school and church it was beams, conveys a sense of welcome to all who enter. our block were invited to Gardner Hale’s house where good to dash home to a dinner of roast chicken and Large fireplaces in the main downstairs rooms are his mother read aloud Scott’s Ivanhoe, a little advanced chocolate ice cream. There were often guests, a visiting Hyde Park Mystery Quiz banked by glazed tiles patterned with green or golden for me, being four years younger than the others. preacher or foreign missionary, or two college girls, as Yerkes Observatory is the third observatory of the leaves. Carroll, Connie, and I would wait until the workmen our parents were counselors of Kelly Hall, one of the University of Chicago. Name one of the first two. Outside again, our guides pointed out features we had left a new house just being built and then explore University dormitories. were to see in other Pond buildings. Quoins, ➤ 6

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