Monte Rosa 4000Ers

Monte Rosa 4000ers

Europe | 4563m

www.360-expeditions.com Monte Rosa 4000ers Europe | 4563m

TheMonte Rosa Massif straddles the border The journey begins and ends in Italy, making between Italy and Switzerland, including the the most of the excellent lift infrastructure famous mountain towns of Zermatt and there. Once into the mountains the next four Gressonney. The Massif dominates the nights are in Italian mountain refuges as we surrounding area with an impressive ten tick off the peaks. In addition to the fantastic peaks over 4,000m high. Although some of hospitality these refuges are famous among the peaks are quite technical climbs the alpinists for great food and wine ! What’s not majority are not. With some training, fitness, to like about the combination of big and a good guide, this is a place to do some mountains, great food, and lovely wine? serious peak-bagging !

A ratio of1 Guide for 3 clients (we can take up to 12 climbers) allows us to move quickly over long glaciated trails, while allowing the Guide to safeguard everyone on more difficult sections. Previous alpine mountaineering experience is not needed for this trip, but you should have worn crampons, be fit, and be ready for an adventure.

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Europe | 4563m

Physical - P3 Technical - T3

This trip is physically tough. Frequent exercise is May involve harder scrambling or some trekking necessary to prepare properly for this expedition. and climbing with ropes. If snow is encountered Regular walking mixed with training at the gym then glacier travel with ropes, ice axes and to build up endurance and cardiovascular fitness crampons will be necessary. Basic climbing skills is key. Expect to be able to do 8 hour days in hilly are ideal, but these will also be taught (and and often steep train, carrying a pack of 6-10kg certainly practiced) during the expedition and in weight with the occasional extra long day. pre-summit phase.

Please note that the grading system used is a rough guide only.

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ITINERARY

DAY 1 : Depart UK & Briefing DAY 6 : Gnifetti Hut to Chamonix

Your trip will start with a briefing at 6pm at your On the final morning we will take in our last remaining big accommodation in Chamonix. You will be notified of the peaks. We first head up to the Ludwigshöhe (4341m). location of this nearer the time. We will discuss the week After that a short descent leads to a col and a nice snowy ahead and answer any questions you may have before ridge that continues to the Parrot Spitz (4432m). After checking/issuing equipment. that we head back down the glacier to the refuge, collect our things, and then continue to Punta Indren where we can take the lift all the way down to Staffal. From there DAY 2 : Chamonix to Refugio Quintino Sella we will drive back to Chamonix for a well-earned shower and a night in a hotel. After breakfast we will drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel into Italy, arriving in Staffal near Gressonney after around 2hrs. We will then take the chair lift up to the Colle DAY 7 : Departure Bettaforca and walk to the Refugio Quintino Sella (3585m) (3hrs30). Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure. It is recommended that flights be booked for around lunchtime to avoid needing an early departure. DAY 3 : Castor (4220m) Transfers to and from Geneva Airport After an early start we will make our way up the glacier. The ascent of Castor is a great place to both teach and The transfer is approximately 70 minutes. Mountain Drop revise skills which will be essential for the rest of the trip. Offs are highly recommended. Please use discount code The summit is a special place, with fantastic views of the SMRJ16 when booking. surrounding 4000m peaks and all the way down to Zermatt. If travelling independently please do not arrive at your accommodation before 1400.

DAY 4 : Refugio Quintino Sella to Gnifetti Hut At the end of the trip the transfer usually departs Chamonix around 3hrs before your flight. This day is begun with a long glacial hike beneath Lyskamm (4272m) towards the Passo del Nasso. This is potentially serious terrain and will only be undertaken if snow conditions are good. After the Passo there will be the option to ascend the Balmenhorn (4167m), Schwarzhorn (4321m) and Pyramid Vincent (4215m) before heading down to the Rifugio Gnifetti (3647m).

DAY 5 : Gnifetti Hut to Zumsteinspitz (4563m)

On the way back we may visit the Margherita Hut which is built on the summit of the Signalkuppe (4554m). This is the highest guardianed refuge in the Alps. After that we will head back down the glacier to the Rifugio Gnifetti.

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KIT LIST

Bags & Packs Duvet jacket

Rucksack Synthetic jackets recommended as they stay warm if wet 30-40 litre maximum. Mammut “Granite 30/40”, and Osprey “Mutant” and Talon 33 Thin gloves recommended Fleece or leather gloves recommended Headwear Warm gloves Warm headgear Consider liners or a light polartec pair for lower This can be a warm hat, beanie, balaclava, altitudes and evenings, and a thicker anything to reduce the heat loss from your head waterproof pair like ski gloves for higher altitudes Wide brimmed hat Mitts Keeps the sun off exposed areas like ears and the nape of the neck Dachstein wool mitts recommended, or fleece with Gore Tex shell Goggles Lower Body Low light lenses recommended as goggles most likely used in poor weather Thick socks

Sunglasses Smartwool or Teko recommended

Worth spending money on good UV filters. For Mountain trousers glacier work category 4 with side and nose protectors. Julbo is our preferred supplier Mammut “Base Jump” (Schoeller fabric) or similar recommended Upper Body Waterproof trousers Thermal shirt/T shirt Like the jacket, an essential piece of kit to stay Merino wool recommended as they don’t smell dry and should also be Goretex

Fleece top/jacket or Softshell

Waterproof jacket

Gore Tex. Arc’Teryx Beta AR recommended

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KIT LIST

Feet Medications

Mountaineering boots (B3) Med-kit and personal medication

Scarpa Ribelles recommended. Boots must have Blister Kit and personal medication if required. a rigid sole. Sportiva Trango and Scarpa Manta “Compeed” recommended are also recommended. Excellent boots can be hired in Chamonix for around €50/week Technical Equipment

Gaiters Head torch

In case of deep snow Petzl “Tika Plus” or similar recommended

Sleeping Gear Harness

Sleeping bag liner (sheet sleeping bag) Black Diamond “Alpine Bod” and Beal “Aero Team III” recommended These are mandatory for the Mountain Huts for hygiene reasons. Silk bags are best due to their Helmet weight. Summit to Sea recommended Petzl “Ecrin Roc” and Black Diamond “Half Hydration Dome” recommended

Water bottles Ice axe

2x 1L water bottles Grivel “Air Tech” recommended. The bottom of your axe should reach your shin when held in Toiletries your hand standing upright

Lip salve Crampons

Sun cream and lip salve. SPF >30 Petzl Vasak and Grivel G12 highly recommended

Wash kit Trekking poles toothbrush, small tube of toothpaste, wet wipes, These can be handy when crossing glaciers, and antiseptic hand gel on paths for reducing shock on your knees. Leki and Komperdell recommended. Snow baskets Ear plugs essential. 1 or 2 poles according to your preference For protection against the inevitable snorers!

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KIT LIST

Miscellaneous

Camera

Compact camera, fully charged

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FAQ'S

How long are the days ?

When is the best time to head out on this The length of days will vary when Alpine expedition? Climbing. Training days will usually start between 0600 and 0800, and last for 6-8 hours. As the Monte Rosa massif is mostly snow and glacier-covered, especially in winter, the best climbing season spans from mid-June to mid- How much water should I carry each day ? September, and we tend to take advantage of the quieter months outside of the August Do not carry too much water – it is very heavy. holidays. As a general rule 1-2 litres is the right amount. Avoid using Camel Back style systems with drinking straws. They leak, the tubes freeze, and What are the mountain huts like ? they will always let you down when you need them most. Nalgene style plastic bottles are the Mountain Huts are mostly owned by the Alpine best. Clubs. They are there to provide accommodation and food for mountaineers. They often cater for large numbers (>100), and What type of food should I carry ? hence can be quite busy. Meals are usually simple but plentiful, and anyone with special Everyone is different, however it is essential to dietary requirements must let us know in eat well in the mountains. Sandwiches are hard advance so we can inform the hut guardian. to beat, supplemented by fruit and chocolate Please note that while huts will usually try and bars. Don’t carry too much food, and remember accommodate vegetarians etc they do that some foods will freeze solid unless kept in sometimes struggle with more specialised jacket pockets. requirements such as gluten free. Showers and running water are not usually available. Meals, drinks, and snacks can be purchased for cash. Can allergies or dietary requirements be The rooms are usually dormitory style, with catered for? large alpine bunks (up to 15 people in a row). Definitely – both vegetarian and vegan diets can be catered for, amongst others. If you have Should I carry shoes for the evenings in the huts a food allergy or specific dietary requirement ? please do just let the office know when you book and we’ll make sure the team on the ground has This isn’t necessary, all of the mountain huts this information before your trek. provide footwear for your comfort, but you may prefer to bring your own.

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FAQ'S

What camera should I take ? Are all Mountain Guides certified ?

We’d recommend you avoid carrying bulky SLR All Guides operating in the European Alps must style cameras. They are too heavy, and slow to be Internationally Certified. Training and use. Compact cameras that fit into a pocket are Assessment takes a minimum of three years and best. Cameras in rucksacks never take anyone caught operating without a license will photographs! Digital cameras must be kept be prosecuted. warm in a pocket or they will freeze and cease to function Occasionally we employ trainee guides (known as Aspirants). They are in the final stages of qualifying as Guides and are allowed to operate What sun cream do you recommend ? under the tutorage of a fully qualified Guide.

Any brand will be fine. The most important thing is the SPF – do not bother with anything under Where can I get a packed lunch for each day ? SPF 30. Creams with UVA and UVB protection are best. Any don’t forget lip salve. You can buy a good packed lunch directly from the refuge. Please let them know the day before. If there is no water in the huts for washing, what should we do ? What if the conditions are too bad for our Take some wet wipes to give yourself a clean in itinerary? the evening. A toothbrush, some wet wipes, and a small tube of toothpaste (shared between If conditions are really bad we will find an several people) is plenty. Some alcohol hand gel alternative plan. This would usually involve is also handy. climbing in either Italy or Switzerland.

What experience do i need to join?

You don’t need previous climbing experience for the trip but time spent on crampons would be a great advantage.

The climbing is all straightforward – mostly it’s hiking on glaciers or steep and snowy paths. You will be taught techniques in situ.. so don’t worry.. BUT you will need to be physically fit.

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TRAINING PROGRAM

To begin 6 months prior to the expedition where MONTH 1 possible. OPT 1 OPT 2

1. CVS: Cardiovascular exercise which is low impact 2 x 30 mins weekday walk 1 x 30 mins weekday walk such as swimming, cycling, cross trainer, rowing. 1 x 1 hour weekend walk 2 x 1 hour weekend walk 1 x 10 mins CVS 1 x 10 mins CVS 2. Weekend walk should be done over undulating terrain. Only a light rucksack needs to be carried. MONTH 2

3. For specific exercises it is worth doing static OPT 1 OPT 2 squats and heel raises on a regular basis to improve leg muscles prior to the trip. Static squats 2 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 2 hours weekend walk are especially useful to help protect the knees. 2 x 10 mins CVS 2 x 10 mins CVS Please remember that it is still important to have a well balanced workout using a variety of muscle groups. MONTH 3

4. It is worth winding down and resting in the week OPT 1 OPT 2 leading up to the trip, doing several light walks to 2 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 45 mins weekday walk keep things going. 1 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 10 mins CVS 2 x 10 mins CVS 5. When walking going at a pace of a brisk walk with a light sweat and enough to feel breathless is MONTH 4 recommended OPT 1 OPT 2 6. During the program, rather than step up 3 x 1 hour weekday walk 2 x 1 hour weekday walk suddenly each month (example, going for 3 one 1 x 4 hours weekend walk 2 x 4 hours weekend walk hour walks each week during the weekdays in April 3 x 15 mins CVS 3 x 15 mins CVS to 3 one and half hour walks suddenly in May) it is better to build up gradually each week so there isn't a large transition (example, going for 3 one MONTH 5 hour walks during week 1 in April, going for 3 one OPT 1 OPT 2 hour and ten minute walks during week 2 in April, going for 3 one hour and fifteen minute walks 3 x 1.5 hours weekday walk 2 x 1.5 hours weekday walk during week 3 in April, going for 3 one hour and 1 x 5 hours weekend walk 2 x 5 hours weekend walk 3 x 20 - 25 mins CVS 3 x 20 - 25 mins CVS twenty minute walks during week 4 in April)

6. It is important you seek medical advice prior to MONTH 6 starting any training program, especially if you are not used to regular physical exertion OPT 1 OPT 2 3 x 2 hours weekday walk 2 x 3 hours weekday walk All the best with your training! 1 x 6 hours weekend walk 2 x 6 hours weekend walk 3 x 30 mins CVS 3 x 30 mins CVS

[email protected] CLICK TO: 0207 1834 360 www.360-expeditions.com BOOK NOW “Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty & well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out & loudly proclaiming ‘Wow! What a Ride!’ “

Dream it. Plan it. Live it.

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