Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek Landscape and Maintenance Guidebook CONTENTS

1. Introduction...... 1 2. Our Watershed...... 3 3. Native vs. Non-Native Plants ...... 5

4. The Creek and Our Garden...... 8 Overview...... 8 Designing a Native Garden...... 8 Soils and Geology...... 9 Suggested Plant Lists ...... 11 Site Preparation...... 11 Planting Techniques...... 14 Maintenance Activities...... 18

5. Living Responsibly...... 25

Local Community Groups...... 29 State, Federal, & Local Environmental Agencies ...... 29 Native Plant Nurseries...... 30 Helpful Books, Guides, and Websites...... 31 List of Summary Boxes 1 Laguna Canyon Creek Study ...... 2 2 Benefits of Native Plants...... 6 3 Invasive Ornamental Plants to Avoid Planting ...... 7 4 Native Plants for Streams...... 12 5 Suggested Native Plants for the Garden and Stream Buffers...... 13 List of Photographs and Graphics Laguna Canyon Creek “stabilized” with concrete...... 1 Laguna Canyon Creek “stabilized” with iceplant ...... 1 Laguna Canyon Creek Watershed and Study Area...... 3 Historic Aerial Photographs: 1938–1971...... 4 Periwinkle (Vinca major)...... 5 Pampas grass (Cortaderia jubata) ...... 5 “California” pepper tree (Schinus molle) ...... 5 California lilac (Ceanothus sp)...... 6 Wishbone bush (Miribilis californica)...... 6 Bush monkey flower (Mimulus aurantiacus)...... 6 California sunflower (Encelia californica)...... 6 Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus)...... 7 Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia)...... 7 Key to Soil Texture by Feel ...... 10 Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica)...... 12 Marsh fleabane (Pluchea odorata)...... 12 Container Planting...... 14 Tree Planting...... 15 Planting Cuttings...... 17 Black mustard (Brassica nigra)...... 19 Brazilian pepper (Shinus terebinthifolius)...... 20 Salt cedar (Tamarix sp)...... 21 Giant reed (Arundo donax) ...... 21 Laguna Canyon Creek through the Canyon Club ...... 22 Pruning a Tree Branch...... 23 Pruning Trees in Streams...... 23 Stream Succession and Maturation ...... 24

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Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek Landscape and Maintenance Guidebook 1. Introduction The City of Laguna Beach (City) completed a feasibility study of Laguna Canyon Creek (the Creek) from El Toro Road to the City’s Dog Park. The feasibility study provides opportunities and strategies to restore or enhance riparian habitat in the Creek and protect water quality (Box 1). One of the initial steps in implementing the plan was to prepare this guidebook for residents living in the Sun Valley Community. The Creek traverses the Sun Valley Community near Philips Road to Sun Valley Drive. The Creek through this community poses highest constraints to classic restoration techniques (e.g., grading to widen the active channel and creating a floodplain) because of the close proximity to residential and commercial infrastructure. However, there are numerous opportunities to improve the stability and habitat quality of the Creek in this area through appropriate planting and maintenance techniques. In addition, water quality and quantity can be improved through implementing water conservation, native gardening, and responsible household, lawn, and community practices. Historically property owners in the Sun Valley Community have employed standard procedures to reduce erosion in the creek adjacent to their property. These practices include hardening creek banks with con- crete or planting ornamental plants such as ice plant. In addition, property owners have maintained flood capacity of the Creek through removing or pruning native riparian vegetation. These activities have reduced the capacity of the Creek to perform natural functions such as providing wildlife habitat and improving water quality. Therefore, this guidebook provides techniques for the Sun Valley community to improve the stability and health of the habitat in the Creek by providing techniques for stabilizing stream banks with native riparian plants and by providing pruning methods and other maintenance practices that don’t exacerbate flood problems. In addition, this guidebook provides landscaping and water conservation prac- tices to protect water quality and reduce flooding such as the planting native gardens and using natural alternatives to fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.

Laguna Canyon Creek “stabilized” with concrete Laguna Canyon Creek “stabilized” with iceplant

1 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK

Box 1: Laguna Canyon Creek Study The Laguna Creek Initial Study and Conceptual Restoration Plan were completed by the City of Laguna Beach in October 2003. The study area consisted of 4,000 linear feet of Laguna Creek from the El Toro Road and Highway 133 intersection to the City’s Dog Park. The goals of the study were to document the history and existing conditions of the Creek, determine habitat res- toration and water quality opportunities, and identify educational, aesthetic, and recreational opportuni- ties. A few of the results of the study are as follows: The Creek has been impacted over the past 70 to 100 years by agriculture and ranching, urban and commercial development, and flood protection. The Creek currently functions at approximately 45% of its theoretical maximum capacity to sup- port native plants and animals, improve water quality, and provide flood protection for residents. The Creek remains regionally significant for sen- sitive plants and animals because it is adjacent to the Laguna Coast Wilderness Park and pro- vides stepping-stone habitat for species to dis- perse to and from Aliso and Wood Canyons Regional Park. Many opportunities for restoring habitat, protect- ing water quality, expanding flood protection, and educating the public were identified. Following is a list of topics detailed in the study: Invasive non-native plant removal. Key problematic species were periwinkle (Vinca major), pampas grass (Cortaderia jubata), giant reed (Arundo donax), cape ivy (Senecio mileanioides), salt cedar (Tamarisk sp.), castor bean (Ricinus communis), and eucalyptus trees (Eucalyptus globulus originally planted in landscapes or used for erosion control and later “escaped” into the Creek.) Floodplain expansion and native riparian replanting to provide a location for water quality pro- cesses to occur, as well as minor improvements in flood protection. Natural “bio-engineering” techniques to stabilize creek banks where concrete lining does not exist or can be removed. Proper planting and pruning techniques for riparian species (e.g., willow trees and mule fat) which stabilize the soil without compromising the flood capacity of the Creek. Public outreach and educational opportunities. Education kiosks for the Dewitt Parcel and the City’s Dog Park. A new recreational trail for the Dewitt Parcel. Stakeholder involvement in invasive species removal, replanting, and water quality monitoring. Specific educational materials such as this guidebook. Regulatory process and environmental constraints. Grant funding opportunities. The full report is available on the City’s website at www.lagunabeachcity.net, click on “water quality,” and again on the “Laguna Creek Habitat Restoration Study.” A slideshow presentation is also available.

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2. Our Watershed Watersheds are defined as the topographic area that drains to a single location, such as the Pacific Ocean. All of the watersheds in coastal southern California drain from the Transverse and Peninsular Mountain Ranges, through neighborhoods and storm drains, and eventually empty in the ocean. The Laguna Canyon Creek watershed originates in Irvine, is approximately 10.5 square miles in size, and includes portions of the Cities of Irvine, Aliso Viejo, Laguna Beach, and Laguna Woods.

Study Area

Laguna Canyon Creek watershed

The watershed is diverse in its history, as well as in the types and sizes of creeks. Laguna Canyon Creek has been culturally altered beginning before the 1930s through agriculture (orchards), road construction, and later through residential and commercial developments (see aerials spanning from 1938 through 1971). Historically, the Creek was a wide sandy braided system with multiple active channels supporting scat- tered oak and sycamore woodland. Currently the Creek forms a single active stream channel supporting a mixture of oak and willow riparian communities that require more water than historic vegetation. Within this and adjacent watersheds, there are several large open space areas that still support natural, culturally unaltered headwater streams due to the preservation of Laguna Coast Wilderness Area and Aliso and Wood Canyons Regional Park. Conversely, there are channelized, concrete-lined creeks and creeks that have been completely buried and routed through storm drains.

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1938 1952 1965 1971

Creeks and storm drains transport storm water (natural precipitation), urban dry-season runoff (irrigation and nuisance water), as well as natural and man made pollutants from open space, our yards, parks, driveways, and streets. As water and pollutants are transported to the ocean by the Creek, some are natu- rally filtered through plant and soil uptake and assimilation. Other pollutants are transformed to beneficial forms. Another set of pollutants can’t be filtered and are harmful to plants and animals within the Creek and contaminate Laguna Beach and the ocean where we live and play. Subsequently, stream ecology, wet- land function, and water quality have become hot topics in local, State, and federal legislation. One of the primary dilemmas is that most of the streams in southern California were historically dry for much of the year, but with the addition of urban runoff and conversion of streams into storm drains, many of the remain- ing natural streams have year-round flows. Because of urban runoff and the increase in impervious surfaces, streams flood more often increasing erosion, the loss of native habitat, and reduced capacity to filter pollutants. In order to mitigate the effects of urbanization, landowners can reduce the quantity and quality of water runoff from their homes and gardens by making simple choices in how we live and how we maintain our properties. Therefore, the following sections discuss the benefits of native plants, how to design a native garden, and techniques for installing and maintaining a native garden. In addition, the section of “living responsibly” provides techniques to conserve water and preserve water quality. Finally, a list of local community groups, regulatory agencies, native plant nurseries, and helpful books and guides are available at the back of this guidebook.

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3. Native vs. Non-Native Plants Native plants are defined as plants that were indigenous to the Pacific southwest prior to the arrival of the European settlers. The benefits derived from planting native plants in our landscaping are immense (Box 2). These benefits are further realized when natives are planted in areas such as the Sun Valley Community, which is adjacent to open space including Laguna Canyon Creek, Laguna Coast Wilderness Area, and Aliso and Wood Canyons Regional Park. Native species, even planted in our backyards, provide buffer habitat that protects open space from invasive species and provides foraging habitat for local wildlife. Native plants are adapted to southern California’s Mediterranean climate of hot dry summers and mild wet winters. In fact, early settlers learned to grow crops that were adapted to this climate such as wheat, grapes, citrus fruit, and olives allowing farmers to be more successful by minimizing the maintenance efforts such as watering, fertilizing, and pruning. These initial crops were the basis of California’s agricultural heritage.1 Native plants and ecosystems support native animals, many of which are sensitive to habitat loss and human impacts. Conversely, invasive non-native plants commonly used in landscapes and historically used for erosion control have a detrimental affect on California streams by competing with native plants for water, sunlight, and nutrients. Invasive non-native plants are often successful in displacing native species and forming monocultures because their natural competitors are not present thereby reducing diversity for wildlife habitat. Invasive plants also increase flood and fire risk by forming thick monocultures. Invasive aquatic plants form dense mats that reduce oxygen in water available for fish and important macroinvertebrates (CNPS)2. The California Exotic Pest Plant Council (CalEPPC)3 has identified a priority list of locally occurring invasive species for removal. Of the long list of species identified by the CalEPPC, the following weed species are predominant in Laguna Canyon Creek: salt cedar (Tamarix sp.), giant reed (Arundo donax), periwinkle (Vinca major), pampas grass (Cortaderia jubata), tree tobacco (Nicotiana glauca), castor bean (Ricinus communis), eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), and “California” pepper tree (Schinus molle). The most im- portant and responsible action that residents can take, or not take, is to first avoid planting invasive species sold at nurseries. Secondly, residents should consider replacing invasive non-native plants in their yard with natives that fill the same niche (Box 3).

Periwinkle (Vinca major) Pampas grass (Cortaderia jubata) “California” pepper tree (Schinus molle)

1 Dallman, 2004. Plant Life in the World of Mediterranean Climates http://www.mediteraneangardensociety.org. 2 California Native Plant Society website: http://www.cnps.org. 3 California Invasive Plant Council website: http://www.cal-ipc.org.

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Box 2: Benefits of Native Plants Native plants are generally drought-tolerant and require very little to no supplemental irrigation or fertilization after the establishment period (first two years). By planting native plants and conserv- ing water, runoff to the Creek and contamination by fertilizers are reduced.

Native ecosystems have a higher biodiversity because they are less likely to form monocultures (single-species stands). Whereas invasive species, California lilac (Ceanothus sp) in the absence of natural predators and compet- itors, commonly form monocultures. Higher plant diversity supports complex assemblages of animals such as hummingbirds and butterflies providing educational and recreational opportu- nities for local residents, schools, children, and tourists.

Natives tend not to require use of pesticides as they are adapted to local soils and pests. Native Wishbone bush (Miribilis californica) plants attract native animals that are the natural predators of pesky insects.

Natives consist of deep root systems and provide natural erosion control for upland slopes and creek banks.

Native shrubs, which are the most commonly Bush monkey flower (Mimulus aurantiacus)

used in native landscaping, require minimal pruning since they typically stop growing at maturity unlike ornamental plants which continue to grow. Depending on the species you choose, pruning is typically limited to slightly more than the dead material (spent flowers and some stem) on an annual or bi-annual basis in late summer 4.

Natives improve water quality due to their ability to attract macrofauna such as earthworms and beneficial bacteria that sequester and remove contaminants. California sunflower (Encelia Californica)

4 CNPS website; www.cnps.org and Las Pilitas Nursery website; http://www.laspilitas.com.

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Box 3: Invasive Ornamental Plants to Avoid Planting

ORNAMENTAL PLANTS RECOMMENDED NATIVE REPLACEMENTS Trees Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus) Western sycamore (Platanus racemosa) California/Peruvian pepper (Schinus molle) California walnut (Juglans californica) Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebenthifolius) Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia) California fan palm (Washingtonia californica) California Scrub oak (Quercus berberidifolia) Mexican fan palm (Washingtonia robusta) Pacific madrone (Arbutus menziesii) Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) Elderberry (Sambucus Mexicana) Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) California laurel (Umbellularia californica) Large Shrubs Sydney golden wattle (Acacia longifolia) Lemonade berry (Rhus integrifolia) Prostrate acacia (Acacia redolens) California wax myrtle (Myrica californica) Western coastal wattle (Acacia cyclops) Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia) Common fig (Ficus carica) Hollyleaf cherry (Prunus ilicifolia) Spanish broom (Spartium junceum) Coffeeberry (Rhamnus californica) Myoporum (Myoporum laetum) Big pod California lilac (Ceanothus megacarpus) Small Shrubs, Vines, and Groundcover German ivy (Senecio mikanioides) Wild grape (Vitis girdiana) English ivy (Hedera spp) Snowberry (Symphoricarpos mollis) Periwinkle (Vinca major) California blackberry (Rubus ursinus) Red apple/heartleaf iceplant (Aptenia cordifolia) California rose (Rosa californica) Common iceplant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum) California fuchsia (Zauschneria californica) Small flowered iceplant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum) California strawberry (Fragaria californica) Highway iceplant (Carpobrotus edulis) Wishbone bush (Mirabilis californica) Trailing African daisy (Osteospermum exklonis) California lilac cultivar (Ceanothus 'point Reyes') Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) Canyon grey (Artemesia californica ‘Cyn Gray’) Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Grasses Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana & jubata) Deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens) Fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) Giant wild rye (Leymus condensatus) Giant reed (Arundo donax) Needlegrass (Nassella pulchra) Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) California fescue (Festuca californica)

Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus) Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia)

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4. The Creek and Our Garden Overview Urban stream restoration and native landscaping are becoming more popular as drinking and irrigation water becomes scarcer and water quality worsens. Restoration in an urbanized setting is generally an attempt to restore some of the natural structure, dynamics, and diversity of the historical ecosystem within the constraints of the urban setting. Although Laguna Canyon Creek through the Sun Valley Community is narrow, there are opportunities to remove invasive species and establish native riparian habitat. Precautions must be taken to maintain flood capacity, but the aesthetic and water quality benefits could be immense particularly when coupled with an adjacent native garden. There are numerous books and nurseries dedicated to native and drought-tolerant landscaping. This short guidebook should be used as a primer to establishing your native garden and is not meant to be the only resource used. See the last section for a list of native plant nurseries, books, guides, and websites that are available to help you establish a native garden that suits your needs. Remember when removing non-native plants, stabilizing creek banks, or planting in or near the Creek there are numerous safety and regulatory concerns. We suggest working with other residents along the Creek, the regulatory agencies (i.e., U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, California Department of Fish and Game, and the Regional Water Quality Control Board) and the City of Laguna Beach to formulate a comprehensive plan and obtain permits for enhancing the Creek through the Sun Valley Community. However, some of the basic steps to removing non-native species, installing erosion control fabric and planting on creek banks, and proper maintenance activities are included here for individual land owners. Designing a Native Garden Step 1: Know Your Site Make a scale drawing (1 inch = 10 feet, etc.) by measuring the length and width of your property or just the area you wish to plant. Note the scale and bearing (north, south, east and west) on your drawing. Position large immovable objects on your drawing. These could include your house, driveway, patio, walkways, fences, rocks, trees and shrubbery you do not plan to move. Note areas of sun, partial shade, and shade. Note existing irrigation sources for each area. Keep in mind that planters adjacent to and at grade with lawns can receive too much irrigation from sprinklers or below ground seepage. In this case, you should consider creating a raised planter to physically separate your native garden from your lawn by elevating it. Also note that native areas will need to be on a separate irrigation zone from lawns and other ornamental plantings. Make several copies of your drawing so that you can mark them up with different plants, plant loca- tions, planter designs, etc. Identify the type of soils that occur in the different areas of your yard (see Soils and Geology in the next section). Note the types of uses you may want such as a sitting area, a bird house or bird bath, hammock, etc. Step 2: Do Research Visit native plant gardens, botanical gardens, and nurseries. Tree of Life Nursery, Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, U.C. Irvine Arboretum, Theodore Payne Foundation, and Las Pilitas Nursery have gardens, trails, and bookstores to explore and employees that can help you identify plants that may appeal to you and suit your area. While visiting nurseries and gardens, take pictures of areas or individual plants that you like. Note the plant structures or schemes that appeal to you (e.g., tall tree in the center surrounded by mounding

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groundcover or tall tree in the back, medium shrubs in center, and low shrubs in front, or mixed planting with little “structure” similar to natural areas.) Purchase books that contain photographs and information about native plants such as Plants of El Camino Real, Tree of Life California Native Plants Catalog and Planting Guide, California Native Plants for the Garden, Gardening with a Wild Heart, and Plants and Landscapes for Summer Dry Regions (see Helpful Books and Guides at the end of this guidebook). Make an initial list and compile pictures and statistics of your favorite plants. Step 3: Create a Plant List and Design Two plant lists have been provided in this document, one for creek banks and waters edge and another suggested list of plants for a native garden. Create a similar list and record the soil, light, and irrigation requirements of each plant. Group your plants by their requirements and note the average mature size of each plant. Determine whether you will follow a theme such as sage scrub areas with desert “islands” or Oak wood- land and low understory. Create one or several draft drawings of planting layout using the scale of your drawing and the esti- mated mature size of individual plants. In nature, areas are sparsely vegetated because when one plant matures smaller plants or seedlings are shaded out. When designing a native garden you should plant by mature size as well so that plants aren’t crowded, you maintain easy access to plants to remove weeds and prune, and you have small bare areas where you can seed annual wildflowers for seasonal color if you chose to. Start with your largest plants such as trees and large shrubs. Place them in your largest areas or to accom- modate your needs for privacy or hedge. If one of your goals is to have two large trees to anchor a hammock, think about the distance that will be necessary between the trees to accomplish this task. Begin selecting smaller plants that will fill in the space with color and texture. Remember to group based on soils, light, and irrigation requirements. Secondarily take into account the flowering period of indi- vidual plants and group plants with complementing colors or with varying flowering seasons. Soils and Geology For the most part, soils in the City of Laguna Beach are sandy loam which is great for native planting. The Sun Valley Community is located in the floodplain of Laguna Canyon Creek. Underlying geology is that of young axial channel deposits made up of sand, silt, and clay-bearing alluvium. Soils include Capi- strano sandy loam made up of well-drained soils typical of the coastal foothills. Historically native vege- tation supported by these soils included oaks, grasses, and sage scrub plants in the uplands and sycamore and oaks woodlands in valleys and streams. However, to accommodate development in the community fill material or foreign soils may have been used. Therefore, you should test several areas in your yard and determine that your soil texture is in fact sandy loam. You can do this by either taking a sample to your garden center, soil and plant laboratory, and/or doing a simple “texture by feel analysis” using the flow chart provided on the next page. The pH of the soil will also be important. You can purchase a pH test at your local hardware store or nursery. In general, sand consists of large particles with low nutrients and irrigation or rain water is quickly drained. Pure sand will not hold a ball when it is wet. Conversely, clay consists of tiny particles that hold water for long periods of time, but soil is generally fertile. When wet, clay particles easily form a ball, make a ribbon greater than 2 inches, and feel very smooth. Plants are easily overwatered in clay soils. Silt is between these two, draining more slowly with an intermediate amount of nutrients. Loams are a mixture of all three types of soils and certainly the easiest soil type for planting a native garden. If sandy loam is still present within the community, residents have a wide range of native species to choose from and a lower likelihood of overwatering and drowning their native plants.

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10 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK

Suggested Plant Lists There are many considerations in creating a plant list for stream restoration or for creating a native garden. The most important of these considerations is the combination of soil, sunlight, and water requirements of individual species. The sunlight and water needs of individual plants were taken from the Tree of Life Nursery Catalog and Planting GuideSoil requirements for individual plants where compiled using multiple references including California Native Plant Society publications, books, and professional and personal experience (see the end of this guidebook for a list of helpful books, guides, and websites.). Generally, plants found in streams are adapted to prolonged moisture through the winter and spring months and sandy or sandy loam soils. Plants that typically occur in the understory of riparian areas are adapted to shady conditions and are good at stabilizing soils either through spreading rhizomes or through deep root systems. A list of plants appropriate for Laguna Canyon Creek has been created for this purpose (Box 4.) These plants have been organized into categories specific to planting location. For example, riparian trees can be planted on the entire creek bank or slope, whereas grasses and rushes should be planted near the waters edge. It is not recommended to vary from list without professional assistance. The second list provided consists of plants successful in Laguna Beach and native gardens (Box 5). However, there is a long list of native plants that are great for landscaping in coastal Orange County. Your final plant list for each area of the yard should be chosen according to personal preference, the wild- life you would like to attract, the soils and sun exposure of your yard, and how often you want to irrigate. Site Preparation Remove Invasive Non-Native Species. Completely remove non-native species through manual removal or herbicide application. See “Weeding” section below. Install Floodwalls or levees and Erosion Control Fabric (for creek banks only). A preliminary assessment of the hydrology through the Sun Valley Community was completed as part of the Laguna Canyon Creek Conceptual Restoration Plan. The assessment estimated that because the Creek through the community is narrow and contains steep slopes, it is likely to convey only a 2-year flooding event without overbanking onto private property. Therefore, prior to stabilizing the creek banks with native vegetation, short (2 to 3 feet in height) floodwalls or levees should be installed to maintain flood capacity. Floodwalls or levees are man-made vertical barriers designed to temporarily contain waters. These can be constructed simply of stone, brick, block, concrete, or pre-fabricated interlocking concrete units around the property at risk for flooding (e.g. yard or yard and house). A coordinated effort between the Sun Valley Community residents would be the most effective5. The wall can be integrated into the garden design by allowing it to be part of a raised planter or a backdrop to new plantings by constructing it with varying sizes and colors of stone. In addition to a short floodwall, reducing the slope of the bank to 3:1 (3 horizontal to 1 vertical) or a maximum of 2:1 (2 horizontal to 1 vertical) should be completed if possible. Secure the slope with biodegradable erosion control fabric or Poly Jute Netting should be installed on stream slopes when bare soil is exposed either through natural processes or when invasive species are removed in preparation of planting. Poly Jute Netting is made of yarn and tape and will not unravel. It is biodegradable in 6 to 8 months providing just enough time for native groundcover to establish and willow trees to put build initial root systems. Netting should be installed following manufactures’ specifications. Soil Preparation and Compost (for native gardens only). If the soil is your garden is heavy clay, you may want to integrate gypsum or organic compost into the soil to break up the soil matrix and improve drainage. Similarly, if your soil is sand, organic compost helps to retain water. Soil texture for the area is expected to be loamy sand and wouldn’t likely need additional compost. Any organic material will enrich

5 A coordinated effort would save money and be more effective with one long wall vs. individual U shaped walls.

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Box 4: Native Plants for Streams Soils Sunlight Monthly H2O Size (ft) sand clay loam full part shade 1x 2x Moist Ht. Wd. Riparian Trees: Entire Slope Western sycamore (Platanus racemosa) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 40+ 30+ Mexican elderberry (Sambucus mexicana) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 20 15 Willow trees (Salix spp.) ● ● ● ● ● ● 30+ 20+ Riparian Trees and Shrubs: Upper Slope/Dry Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia) ● ● ● ● 40+ 35+ Mulefat (Baccharis solicifolia) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 10 8 Sugarbush (Rhus ovata) ● ● ● ● ● ● 8-10 10 Riparian Understory: Entire Slope Hummingbird sage (Salvia spathacea) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Creeping snowberry (Symphoricarpos mollis) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1-3 3 Marsh Fleabane (Pluchea odorata) ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 1 Mugwort (Artemesia douglasiana) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 3 Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 California strawberry (Fragaria californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1 3 California wild rose (Rosa californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 3-6 5+ California blackberry (Rubus ursinus) ● ● ● ● ● ● 5 6+ Waters Edge: Grasses & Rushes Deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 San Diego bent grass (Agrostis pallens) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● <1 2 California fescue (Festuca californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 2 Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1 2+ Spiny rush (Juncus acutus var. leopoldii) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 2+ Mexican rush (Juncus mexicanus) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 2+ Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica) ● ● ● ● ● 1 3+

Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica) Marsh fleabane (Pluchea odorata)

the soil, but wood chips, bark, and sawdust tend to tie up nitrogen6 whereas mulch made from forest litter, leaves, and other organic materials would contribute nutrients to the soil more readily. After installation of your native garden, consider composting at home. It’s easy, cost effective, and lowers the green waste you discard to the landfill. Composting will help you reuse dried leaves, grass clippings, cut leaves, branches, and spent flowers, as well as some kitchen scraps such as fruit, vegetables, coffee, and egg shells. Compost can take the place of your regular mulching needs. The cleanest and easiest method to make compost is by using a tumbler on a horizontal axis that is easy to turn. Composting using a tumbler allows you to easily spin and aerate the mixture and produce compost in approximately two weeks. Tumblers can cost anywhere from $150 to $250, but can save you that much in purchasing compost or mulch in just a few years. Other, less expensive ways are by forming a pile away from structures or by using a composting bin. Use a pitch fork or shovel to keep “raw” compost materials mixed and aerated.

6 Francis and Reimann, 1995.

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Box 5: Suggested Native Plants for the Garden Soils Sunlight Monthly H2O Size (ft) sand clay loam full part shade 1x 2x 4x Ht. Wd. Small and Large Trees Pacific madrone (Arbutus menziesii) ● ● ● ● ● 40+ 30+ Western sycamore (Platanus racemosa) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 40+ 30+ Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia) ● ● ● ● 40+ 35+ California scrub oak (Quercus berberidifolia) ● ● ● ● 10 8 Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) ● ● ● ● ● ● 8-20 10+ Large Shrubs Channel Island poppy (Dendromecon hardfordii ● ● ● ● 10+ 12 Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia) ● ● ● ● ● 8-15 12+ Laurel sumac (Malosma laurina) ● ● ● ● ● 8-15 12+ Sugarbush (Rhus ovata) ● ● ● ● ● 8-15 10+ California lilac (Ceanothus sp.) ● ● ● ● ● ● 3-10 7 Fuchsia-flowered gooseberry (Ribes speciosum) ● ● ● ● 4-10 7 Hollyleaf cherry (Prunus ilicifolia) ● ● ● ● ● 15 10+ Coffee berry (Rhamnus californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● 5-15 10 Mahonia spp. (Mahonia nevinii or ‘Golden abundance’) ● ● ● ● ● ● 4-12 12 Medium and Small Shrubs California buckwheat (Eriogonum faciculatum) ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 4+ Golden currant (Ribes aureum) ● ● ● ● 6 4 Coast sunflower (Encelia californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 4 Bush snapdragon (Galvesia speciosa and hybrids) ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 5 Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii) ● ● ● ● ● ● 5 4 Hummingbird sage (Salvia spathacea) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Woolly blue curls (Trichostema lanatum) ● ● ● ● 2-4 4 Dara’s choice (Salvia sp. Creeping sage hybrid) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Sagebrush (Artemesia californica) ● ● ● ● 4 3 Bush Monkeyflower (Mimulus aurantiacus) ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Matilija Poppy (Romneya ‘White Cloud’) ● ● ● ● ● 3-6 8+ Vines and Groundcover Canyon grey (Artemesia californica ‘Cyn Gray’) ● ● ● ● ● 2 6 Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Ceanothus cultivars (Ceanothus spp.) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1-4 4-12 Creeping snowberry (Symphoricarpos mollis) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1-3 3 Manzanita cultivars (Arctostaphylos spp.) ● ● ● ● ● 1-5 4-6 Dana Point buckwheat (Eriogonum faciculatum hybrid) ● ● ● ● ● 2 5 California strawberry (Fragaria californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1 3 Wishbone bush (Mirabilis californica) ● ● ● ● ● 2 4+ Roger’s red wild grape (Vitis californica ‘Roger’s red’) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● vine vine Bunchgrass etc. Deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens) ● ● ● ● ● 2 3 Needlegrass (Nassella pulchra) ● ● ● ● ● 2 2 California fescue (Festuca californica) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 3 2 Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium bellum) ● ● ● ● ● 1 1 Iris (Iris spp.) ● ● ● ● ● ● 1 2

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Planting Techniques Container Plants. Installing native plants should be completed in the fall through early spring of each year (November through March). Planting at this time increases your chances of success and decreases the need to irrigate. This is because native species are adapted to varying soil and air temperatures and in the fall, winter, and early spring the soil is cool and moist. In contrast, soil is dry and warm in the summer and young natives tend not to adapt well to wet warm soil, an unnatural condition for southern California. In addition, most natives are dormant during winter months and put all available resources into root growth. No matter when you decide to plant, native plants need to be nurtured just like ornamentals through the first and possibly the second growing season. But after this, you can sit back and enjoy your native plants with few maintenance requirements. If you require planting in the summer months follow the supplemental watering scheme recommended by Tree of Life Nursery and provided below.

1. Dig the hole twice as deep and twice as wide as the plant container. Break up large clods and eliminate large rocks. 2. Prepare “backfill” by amending soil with 1/3 composted or nitrolized forest humus and 2/3 native soil. If the soil is lacking in nutrients, slow release fertilizers (granules) may be included. Note: ask your nursery if native plants were inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi, most are, but if they aren’t you should amend the soil with the beneficial fungi. 3. Fill planting hole with water and allow water to percolate into the ground. Note: This is the most important step for native plants. 4. Mound some backfill material into the bottom of the hole, tamp, and moisten. Do not saturate the mound. 5. Set plant root ball on the mound and make sure the top of the plant collar is ½ to 1 inch above the sur- rounding ground surface. 6. Backfill the remainder of the hole slowly; tamping and moistening as you fill. 7. Create a shallow irrigation berm around the plant using the remaining backfill and apply a 2- to 3-inch thick layer of organic mulch around the plant, but a few inches away from the crown. The most highly recommended mulch at this time is shredded redwood bark, which will not decompose and over- fertilize your plants. Do not use lawn clippings, chicken manure, straw, or fresh eucalyptus leaves. 8. Water thoroughly to settle the backfill, mulch, and berm material. Allow to soak in and repeat water- ing one time.

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15 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK

Live Staking. For residents living adjacent to Laguna Canyon Creek, live staking is a big part of your solution to slope stabilization and providing a native riparian canopy to enjoy. Live staking, also known as willow staking or sprigging, is defined as planting living wood into soil. Many riparian woody species will readily develop roots from cut stems placed into moist soil. Under the right conditions this kind of planting is a quick and inexpensive way to rapidly establish vegetation, provide slope stabilization, and wildlife habitat. Willows (Salix sp.), mule fat (Baccharis salicifolia), and cottonwoods (Populus sp.) are used extensively due to their high survival rates and extensive root systems. As with container plants, cut- tings should be planted when they are dormant (November through March) and when nutrients that are stored in the cutting can be directed into the development of a root system. Follow the directions below to plant live stakes on the sides of the active stream channel and up the stream banks. You will see plant growth during the first winter and deep root systems will take hold within the first three years to stabilize soil. During this period, pruning the lower branches is necessary to maintain flood capacity. 1. Collect cuttings from healthy plants within the Creek. Although willows and mule fat can withstand extensive pruning, minimize the impact to individual donor plants and the plant community. a. Choose straight branches as much as possible so they will be easier to plant. The usual diameter that can be harvested with garden loppers is 1 inch, but the larger the diameter of the cutting, the better. b. The minimum length needed to have enough stored nutrients to survive is 18 inches, but cuttings should be 36 to 48 inches and can be 6 feet long if they need to be planted deep enough to reach year-round moisture. c. Make clean cuts so there are no split ends or torn bark. 2. After the cutting is removed from the tree, cut off the side branches as close to the stem as possible. a. Cut the top of the stem straight and the bottom end at an angle indicating that end will go into the ground. This is very important! If cuttings are planted upside down they will not grow. b. Angling or sharpening the bottom will also allow the cuttings to be driven into the soil with more ease. 3. Place cuttings immediately into water or cover them with a wet fabric until they are planted. Do not let them dry out. They can be stored for long periods if they are kept damp and cool. A trashcan with water is a great way of storing cuttings immediately after collection. 4. If the soil is fine, moist, and soft enough to drive the cutting into place without damage then no soil prepa- ration is necessary. Simply use a wooden mallet to drive the cutting into the soil. If the soil is hard and the depth to year-round moisture is deep, it will be necessary to auger or dig a hole for the cut- ting. You can simply use a sharpshooter shovel to dig a narrow hole for the cutting. 5. When planting, approximately 75 percent to 80 percent of the length of the cutting should be below the ground. If the upper end is damaged while driving it in with a wooden mallet, cut off the damaged portion with scissor-type loppers (anvil-types tend to crush one side of the stem) leaving 15 percent to 20 percent of the cutting length above ground. This placement minimizes water loss and helps prevent damage to roots. 6. Backfill the hold and tamp down soil to maximize soil contact.

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Planting cuttings.

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Maintenance Activities Irrigation Your irrigation needs are based on the time of year you plant, the soil type of your yard, and individual plant requirements. It’s ideal to plant native species during the late fall and winter (November through March) to take advantage of cool soil temperatures, precipitation, and to limit plant stress. There’s flexi- bility in planting your yard; however streamside planting should only occur during the winter because many stream plants such as willow trees are dormant and will be focusing energy in developing root systems. Regardless of time in which you plant your garden, it is important to keep the root ball wet, but not drowning, during the first two or three months following planting. After the first few months, irriga- tion is reduced, but remains fairly regular for the first two years. Generally after the first two years, irrigation is restricted to summer months and should not be necessary during the cool late fall, winter, or early spring months unless an extended drought period occurs. Summer watering ranges between 1 and 2 times monthly for the species recommended in this guidebook considering the native soils in the Laguna Canyon Creek area. Watering should be completed on cool, overcast days or in the early morning when wind and heat is minimal. Midday irrigation is wasteful because water evap- orates prior to adequate plant absorption and watering when the soil is hot can stress a plant. Evening irriga- tion can lead to plant disease when water sits on plants over night, especially in our coastal humid climate. There are different opinions on whether to use drip irrigation or overhead sprinklers when planting native plants. The City of Laguna Beach and water utilities of southern California recommend drip irrigation to conserve water and allow for better control over irrigation. It is estimated that drip irrigation uses between 30 to 50 percent less than sprinklers and the slow rate of application of water to the roots ensures no loss of water through runoff and minimal loss through evaporation. This approach also reduces weed growth in bare spaces between plants, it’s inexpensive, and easy to install without help from a professional. If sprinklers are used, the heads should be sized to accommodate the infiltration rate of the soils in your yard. And if your sprinklers are set on a timer, it should be programmed to water in 2 to 3 short cycles rather than a single long period of time allowing the water to soak in to the ground between the cycles (i.e., 5am, 6am, and 7am for 4 minutes each vs. 7am for 12 minutes.) Do not cycle drip systems. In a small yard consider using a portable line with attached sprinkler for monthly watering versus installing an elaborate and expensive drip or sprinkler system. Remember that after the first two years, native may only need to be watered a few times a year and a portable system would be inexpensive and convenient. Infrequent deep watering making sure that the root zone is thoroughly soaked is the key to native plant health and development of a deep root zone. Soil needs to dry down 8 to 12 inches before the next irriga- tion cycle. Wetting the full root zone followed by drying between irrigation events is essential for healthy native plants. Before watering, verify that the soil is dry by using an inexpensive soil probe available at most garden centers. If you have an irrigation system set on a timer, you should install a “Smart Timer” which is run automatically based on sensors in the soil near your plants. Smart Timers use local weather data, the needs of your plants, and soil moisture to automatically regulate the frequency of irrigation cycles. The City of Laguna Beach is a participating member of the Orange County Municipal Water District SmarTimer Rebate Program (SEEP). These Smart Timers are estimated to reduce water use by up to 25 percent. Go to http://www.lagunabeachcity.net or http://www.mwdoc.com/SmarTimer/index. html for details. A great website with free tutorials on designing irrigation can be found at http://www. irrigationtutorials.com. Mulch and Fertilizer Native plants are adapted to the low nutrient soils of California. Therefore, unless the soil has been com- pacted or over fertilized there is likely no need to add amendments. In fact, it is thought by many native horticulturists that high nitrogen fertilizers commonly used in landscapes can shorten the lifespan of drought- tolerant native plants.

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However, mulches are a necessary component of a low maintenance, low water native garden. A thick layer of mulch prevents rapid evaporation of irrigation water, keeps plant roots cool, and helps to reduce soil compaction. Just as important, mulch retards weed germination and growth by shading weed seed. A 4 inch thick layer of mulch should be spread throughout your garden. Apply the mulch around each plant, but be sure to stay outside of the plant crown by leaving several inches of bare soil. Use organic mulch made up of decomposing plant and animal matter such as wood, leaves, forest mulch, bark, and/or compost (see previous section on Soil Preparation and Compost). As the mulch degrades it will enrich the soil with nutrients. Reapplying mulch is typically required every other year depending on decomposition. Shredded redwood bark is an excellent choice of mulch for making landscaped areas look neat and tidy. It maintains its color and position longer than other standard organic mulches. Weeding One of the most frustrating and important aspects of stream restoration or a new landscaping project can be controlling common annual weeds or “escaped” ornamental plants. Two standard methods for remov- ing weeds can be used by residents. The preferred method is hand or mechanical removal with very little to no soil disturbance. The second method that can be used is foliar application of herbicides. When determin- ing the method of removal consideration must be given to the target species, temperature, and possibility of rain. In addition, it is important to note that while children are a great resource for manual hand removal they should not be present when herbicides are being applied. The dangers of herbicides are listed on the container and if followed correctly, the risk of injury to adults is extremely low. If you feel uncomfortable about the directions listed on individual labels, please call the manufacturer or employ a professional. Hand Removal. This technique is most effective when weeds are young, before they produce seed and deep root systems. When removing weeds by hand, the root, rhizome, or node should be removed. Try to avoid using shovels or hoes. These tools tend to cause unnecessary soil disturbance and encourage weed growth. Dispose of weeds at an appropriate location away from the Creek. Many need to go directly to the landfill and others can be processed into compost or mulch with your yard green waste. Foliar Spray. Herbicide application will likely be necessary for weed species that re-sprout from roots or rhizomes such as many annual grasses, salt cedar, giant reed, and periwinkle. Due to the close proximity to the Creek, residents should only use glyphosate-based herbicides such as Roundup or Rodeo. Rodeo is the only chemical the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has approved for use within 100 feet of a natural watercourse or body of water. Gyphosate is a non-selective herbicide and will kill native plants, as well as non-native plants. The most effective uptake of the herbicides will occur when it is sunny and dry with ambient temperatures of 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and when plants are at the specified growing stage. Do not apply herbicides when wind speed is greater than 5 mph. This will limit drift to non-target plants and limit the potential hazard to yourself or your pets. The following paragraphs include a summary of species commonly sold by nurseries, used for landscap- ing and erosion control, and observed in Laguna Canyon Creek. Small infestations of these species can likely be removed or controlled by one or two residents. However, large infestations of these species should be completed with professional supervision. Annual weeds such as black mustard (Brassica nigra), short pod mustard (Hirschfeldia incana), tocalote (Centaurea melitensis), sweet clover (Melilotus indicus), bur clover (Medicago polymorpha), and annual grasses are a common problem in every yard and in the Creek. These species can be controlled mainly by hand pulling and weed whipping with limited use of Round-Up or Rodeo depending on proximity to water. Removal is most effective prior to plants producing seed and with minimal

19 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK ground disturbance. These weeds can be added to your green waste. Periwinkle (Vinca major) is from southern Europe and northern Africa and was introduced to the United States as an ornamental groundcover and medicinal herb. Periwinkle was the most extensive invasive species in Laguna Canyon Creek through the Dewitt Parcel. Periwinkle is a spreading perennial vine with purplish-blue flowers and it spreads vegetatively, not by seed. One piece of the vine can quickly occupy the shady wet understory of a riparian system and smother native species. The greatest success in removal periwinkle is achieved through cutting the waxy cuticle with a weed whip and then apply Round-Up or Rodeo during the growing season and when weather is warm (70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit), usually in late fall. Dispose of removed and dead biomass at the landfill and do not add to green waste. (Photo shown in Section 3.) Pampas Grass (Cortaderia selloana and Cortaderia jubata) is native to Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay, where it grows in relatively damp soils along river margins. In 1848, nurserymen introduced pampas grass to Santa Barbara and commercial production began in 1874. In 1946, the Soil Conservation Service planted it throughout Ventura and LA Counties for erosion control. Pampas grass spreads by seed easily dispersed by wind as far as 20 miles. The dry biomass from pampas such as dead leaves, leaf bases, and flowering stalks creates a significant fire hazard. Small specimens of pampas grass can be removed manu- ally by digging and grubbing. Cover the flowering parts with a plastic or canvas bag to limit unintended distribution of seed and be sure to rake and remove as much seed as possible. Large specimens can be cut with a chainsaw followed by herbicide application within several minutes of cutting. Round-Up or Rodeo should be applied from spring to late fall and several applications may be necessary. Leave the plants in the ground until the roots have died. Cuttings should be disposed of at the landfill and not added to green waste. (Photo shown in Section 3.) Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus sp) is native to Australia and has fueled disastrous fires in the Oakland Hills, in Santa Barbara, and other parts of the southwest. The most hazardous species, blue gum (Eucalyptus glob- ulus), is impossible to maintain for fire safety due to its immense size and copious peeling bark. The same oil that fuels fires prevents native species from taking root in the vicinity of the tree due to its allelopathic qualities. Planting any species of eucalyptus tree within 200 feet of the active streambed can be extremely hazardous to the riparian ecosystem. Eucalyptus within the stream and adjacent uplands could be removed by cutting and painting with Round-Up or Rodeo. To replace tree cover, native species such as oaks, syc- amores, cottonwoods, and willows should be planted. Mature eucalyptus trees within the City, such as those along Laguna Canyon Road, may be considered historic or landmark features per the Landscape and Scenic Highways Resource Document (City of Laguna Beach, 1995). Therefore, don’t start cutting down trees without first consulting the City. (Photo shown in Section 3.) Brazilian Pepper (Shinus terebinthifolius) and “California Pepper” (Schinus molle), also known as Peruvian pepper, are native to south America, but have been planted around California missions as early as the 1830s. These species have been extremely invasive in riparian areas throughout southern California. These species have not yet invaded Laguna Canyon Creek, but should not be planted in the vicinity. Pepper trees within the stream and adjacent uplands could be removed by cutting and painting with Round-Up or Rodeo. (Photo of “California” Pepper shown in Section 3.)

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Salt cedar (Tamarix sp.) has the ability to rapidly produce in upwards of 500,000 tiny seeds annually, which are easily distributed by wind. Once a establishes in a stream or other water body, it can grow 3 to 4 meters in one growing season and cause dramatic changes in soil chemistry, groundwater levels, and biological diversity. Salt cedar uses three times the water that native riparian species do and can sterilize soil. This species is difficult to remove because of its ability to resprout following cutting or burning. The most effective way to remove this species is by using a plastic or canvas bag to cover the frawns (flowering parts and seed) while cutting the base of the tree and stump(s). Within several minutes of cutting, the stumps must be painted with Rodeo for proper transfer to roots. Complete during late spring or early fall during good growing conditions and dispose of at the landfill. Do not add to green waste. Giant Reed (Arundo donax) has fueled dangerous wildfires and caused local flooding because it doubles the plant material available as fuel and reduces the capacity of streams. Arundo spreads vegetatively, not through seed. A small piece of the rhizome transported downstream can start a new colony. Arundo consumes three times the amount of water as native riparian species and quickly eliminates native plants and wildlife habitat by growing 3 to 4 inches a day under ideal conditions. Ideally, Arundo should be sprayed using Rodeo during late summer to early fall when the rate of downward translocation is greatest. If the reeds are tall, bend the tops in on themselves prior to spraying. Above ground biomass should be cut 6 months later and disposed of at the landfill. Do not add to green waste. If the infestation is close to a structure and fire hazard is a concern, the thicket can be cut to within a foot of the ground and new growth can be treated the following year, but this is not as effective at killing rhizomes. Pruning Shrubs and Bunch grasses. Pruning native shrubs is not necessary if they are planted far enough apart to reach their mature size. However, pruning can be used to achieve a more manicured appearance in a native garden, extend the flowering period of many species, or initiate rejuvenation of an older plant. There are several pruning techniques. The first and least invasive is “deadheading”, which is to cut off the dead and spent flower parts to stimulate a second flowering. Deadheading can typically occur during mid- dle to late spring depending on the plant. The second and most common form of pruning is cutting no more than approximately one third of the plant annually by selectively removing dead or unwanted branches to maintain a desired size and shape. This type of pruning stimulates new healthy growth during the next growing season while maintaining the desired plant size. Cut branches at slightly varying lengths and remove some internal branches to open the plant to sunlight for new interior growth. If you shear the entire bush (shearing), growth will be stimulated only near the outer edge and interior branches may become thick and woody and unable to produce new growth. Do not prune basal growth so that the plant has a bare trunk. Instead allow branches to drape and trail to the ground. Pruning most perennial shrubs is typically acceptable in late fall or winter when many native plants are dormant, but this can vary.

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The third and most extreme form of pruning is “coppicing” where the entire plant is cut down to the ground during dormancy in late fall or winter. This type of pruning can produce rejuvenation of an older plant, but it can also cause harm or death. Ask the native plant nursery prior to employing this method to verify that the plant species can tolerate the effects of coppicing. Bunch grasses can be cut in late summer or early fall once the grass goes dormant. Shear the grass 3-4 inches from its base (basal area). This is easiest using scissors while holding clumps of the bunch grass in the other hand. Or, you can tie the bunch grass with string and cut using shears or scissors to cut dead material. Pruning bunch grasses does not need to occur annually. Instead, you can remove the older outer growth annually and prune the entire plant every two to three years. Remember to reference a book or the native plant nursery for the proper time to prune each plant species you purchase. Also, note the pruning and watering requirements on your plant design for easy reference until you become familiar with individual plant needs. Pruning shrubs and grasses in the understory or in buffer areas adjacent to the creek should not be necessary. As described below, only pruning trees for the purposes maintaining stream flood capacity should be completed in the Creek. Trees. There are three primary reasons to prune trees, tree health and balance, visual and flood control. A specific type of pruning is recommended for young trees in Laguna Canyon Creek to maintain or increase flood capacity without compromising habitat value. To date, residents or flood control services have been removing vegetation from the creek or heavily pruning (“topping”) willow trees to allow more high-water flows to pass through the channel. Unfortunately, this creates several problems. Removing the riparian canopy increases sun exposure and allows for dense emergent vegetation or short dense willow growth which traps sediment, slows water, and reduces flood capacity of the creek similar to a young or recently planted creek. Riparian canopies provide shade, wildlife habitat, and overall aesthetic value to the creek. Also, removing trees and their roots have left the creeks banks unprotected and subject to erosion or planted with non-native plants that provide little or no wildlife habitat. Young riparian vegetation can inhibit flows if not managed properly. As trees mature and develop a dense canopy, management needs should be minimal because the understory is short, the active channel is clear, and the tree canopy is above the flow line (see diagram stream success and maturation, next page). An excellent example of a successfully managed reach of Laguna Canyon Creek can be observed through The Canyon Club property. Although there is little native understory, the shade created by mature willow trees retard dense native emergent vegetation from chok- ing the creek and reducing flood capacity. The shade also inhibits many weeds from invading the understory. Deep root systems of mature willow trees have been fairly successful at stabilizing the creek bed and banks. In all, The Canyon Club has employed non-invasive man- agement strategies by allowing the active channel and soil terraces to remain natural without concrete or dense invasive species such as iceplant or periwinkle. The only obvious management activity The Canyon Club has employed is depositing some rock at the base of willow trees to inhibit erosion. Pruning young willow trees should be done when they are dormant in late winter to early spring (December to April) to limit the potential for infection. This also ensures that the rainy season will keep the tree hydrated. As stated previously, there are three primary reasons to prune trees, visual and flood control. The method for removing individual branches is the same for both of these goals; however, the location may differ. For flood control purposes, branches within the annual flow elevation (bottom branches) should be removed so that the capacity of the channel is not compromised. Flood control pruning increases stream capacity without compro- mising soil stability so that the creek can ultimately reach the structure exhibited through The Canyon Club

22 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK property (e.g., tall sparse mature trees and a free flowing creek). Do not lop the top of a willow or other riparian tree, also referred to as “topping.” Topping trees creates low growing bushy trees and stunted root systems. As a general rule do not prune more than 15 percent of the tree branches in a single year. Branches less than 1 inch in diameter can be cut with loppers or pruning shears. However, larger branches should be pruned using the following steps to decrease the possibility for disease. Seek the advice of a native plant nursery when pruning these and other desert trees.

Pruning trees in streams Pruning a tree branch

1. Use only clean and sharp pruning tools so you don’t tear the bark or limb. Tears and jagged cuts heal more slowly and become avenues for disease or pests. 2. Remove dead or damaged limbs and sprouts on the trunk near the base of the tree. 3. Use the three-cut method to limit the possibility of the weight of the branch causing tearing or splitting before the cut is completed (Diagram X). a. Make the first cut approximately 1 foot from the trunk on the underside of the limb. The cut should be approximately half way through the branch. b. Make the second cut further out on the top side of the limb. This cut should be complete through so that you can remove the branch. c. Make the final cut of the remaining stump just out from the branch/trunk collar.

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Stream succession and maturation

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5. Living Responsibly Water Conservation. Southern California’s coastal plain is mostly arid with little native water available to meet the needs of a large population. To survive the past century, the region has evolved from “importing” water from the Colorado River and from Northern California. Southern Californians have adopted water efficient appliances and plumbing fixtures, which conserve water inside homes. However, Metropolitan Water District reports that approximately 60% of our water consumption is applied to outdoor gardens and pools. This trend is being addresses by many organizations through teaching conservation practices and installing water efficient landscapes. The City of Laguna Beach adopted a plan titled Recommenda- tions for Landscape Design (1993) including water conservation measures. The City encourages the prac- tice of water saving horticulture techniques which combine creative landscaping, efficient irrigation, grass- cycling, and composting or mulching. In addition, the City is participating in the SmarTimer/Edgescape Evaluation Project (SEEP), which is a rebate program run by the Municipal Water District of Orange County. Rebates for installing evapotranspiration-based “Smart Timer” irrigation controllers and drought-tolerant land- scaping are available. For details on the SEEP program go to http://www.lagunabeachcity.net or http:// www.mwdoc.com/SmarTimer/index.html. Here are some quick tips to conserve water and save money. Plant native and drought-tolerant plants! Reduce your grass area by expanding native garden borders or planters and reduce your water, nutrient, and maintenance requirements. Before watering, use inexpensive soil moisture probe, available at most garden or irrigation supply stores to see if your plants need water OR install a Smart Timer. Reduce runoff and erosion by adjusting sprinklers regularly to water only your grass, not the sidewalk or the street. Water your lawn during the early morning when wind is typically less strong and soil is cool. Adjust the sprinkler time monthly to account for changing weather patterns. Check your water meter to see if there are any leaks. If the dial is spinning and there’s no water run- ning than you may have a leak in the irrigation. If your home is older, check your water pressure using a meter from a hardware store. If your water pressure is over 80psi than you could install a pressure regulator outside. Leave your grass taller (3 inches high) which will reduce evaporation. Mow more often and leave short grass clippings in place during the summer months to reduce water consumption and act as a fertilizer. Put 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch around the base of your trees and shrubs to keep their roots cool and slow evaporation. Sweep instead of hosing down driveways and sidewalks. Preserving Water Quality and Preventing Pollution. There are two types of drainage systems that resi- dents rely on to carry the water they use in every day living away from their homes. The first is the waste- water/sewer system and the second is the storm drain system. It’s common knowledge that our homes are connected to the sewer system and that our waste is treated. Our storm drains are not connected to the sewer and water runs unfiltered into our creeks, bays, and ultimately to the ocean. Along with the irriga- tion and stormwater runoff, pollutants from our lawns, sidewalks, gutters, and streets are also transported to the ocean. Some of the primary contaminants identified by the State Water Resources Control Board include motor oil, trash, pet waste, paint, and household chemicals including pesticides, fertilizers and herbicides. The health of a water body, often referred to as biological integrity, is defined by the State Water Resources Control Board as “its ability to function naturally and support life in the way that it would without any human impacts.” Sun Valley Community residents live adjacent to the Creek and have the ability to affect

25 Sun Valley Community and Laguna Canyon Creek LANDSCAPE AND MAINTENANCE GUIDEBOOK the health to a much greater degree than residents who live further from away. For example, if a resident living directly adjacent to a creek overuses fertilizers, the nitrogen and phosphorus may have direct impact on the local flora whereas a resident in the headwaters of a creek may have wetland treatment basins or other water quality treatment mechanisms before the fertilizer reaches the Creek. The City of Laguna Beach has a water quality program equipped with a host of information on the preserving water quality including strategies for living responsibly and answers to frequently asked questions.7 Here are some specific strategies every resident can implement to preserve the quality of our water. Trash and Sediment – Trash and soil from home gardens, commercial business, and other urban uses washed into the street by rain or hosing can accumulate in storm drains and in the Creek. Fast-food wrappers, cig- arette butts, bottles and cans are a few of the commonly found trash items on beaches every day. These items affect our economy and our quality of life by being an eyesore to tourists and residents alike. Recycle plastics, metals, glass, and newspaper. Don’t overwater or wash down your driveway or sidewalk. Move your cars on street-sweeping day so that debris can be removed. Pet Waste – When determining the health of a creek, water samples are analyzed for various contaminants including indicator bacteria such as total coliform, fecal coliform and eteroccoccus. These bacteria indi- cate the presence of harmful viruses, bacteria, or protozoa (pathogens). They enter our watershed by natural causes such as soils, decaying vegetation, birds and other wildlife. They enter in much larger quantities through animal waste from dogs, cats, and human encampments in open space areas. Preliminary studies show that dog and cat waste can contribute up to 25 percent of the harmful bacteria in our local streams and lagoons. The bacteria and viruses cause gastroenteritis (inflammation of the stomach and intestines), diarrhea, and infectious hepatitis (liver malfunction). Some of the common diseases spread by animals include campylobacteriosis, cryptosporidium, toxocariasis, and toxoplasmosis. Here are some easy ways to be responsible pet owners. When at home, pick up your animal’s waste daily during the rainy season. When out on a walk or playing at the City’s dog park, watch your pet. If you don’t see it, you don’t know it happened. Always carry plastic bags or a pooper scooper with you, pick up waste and throw it into a garbage can or a toilet. Make sure your pet is vaccinated regularly, which will help prevent the spread of diseases if waste is accidentally left behind. Soaps and Detergents – A primary pollutant found in stormwater is soaps resulting from washing cars in driveways and streets. Soaps cause excessive algal growth, starving the water of valuable oxygen for native plants and animals. Although fish are no longer utilizing Laguna Canyon Creek, it is important to note that soaps also destroy the mucus layer in fish, which protects them from harmful parasites. Here are some helpful tips for controlling soaps and detergents from getting into your storm drain. Take your car to a commercial car wash which reuse wash water and later discharge dirty water to the sanitary sewer system. Wash your car on a grassy area or other previous surface which allows the water to percolate into the ground helping to prevent the water from entering the streets and storm drains. Use a spray nozzle that controls the water flow only when you need it. Use bio-degradable or environmentally friendly soaps instead of harsh detergents. Use a bucket filled with soapy water versus putting soap directly on to your sponge. Never hose off your driveway. Sweep up dirt and debris.

7 http://www.lagunabeachcity.net/government/departments/waterquality

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Fertilizers, Pesticides, and Herbicides – These three contaminants are transported from our landscape areas by rain, irrigation water, and hosing down driveways and sidewalks. They are either dissolved in water or attached to lawn clippings and leaves. Fertilizers add nutrients to water causing plant and algae growth which can deplete oxygen levels for aquatic wildlife or cause prolific growth and premature death in native plants. Pesticides and herbicides help control our pests, but many of them are “broad spectrum” and also poison native plants, wildlife, and beneficial insects and have serious human health risks. Why is this important? The Audubon Society reports that 70 million pounds of pesticides and 100 million tons of fertilizers are applied annually to home lawns. That is three times more pesticides than farmers use. As a result of these contaminants, the Audubon Society conservatively estimates 7 million bird deaths occur annually because birds mistake pesticide granules for food. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that 10,000 to 20,000 physician-diagnosed pesticide poisonings occur each year. The Audubon Society promotes a three-step approach to controlling the use of these contaminants in our yard. Prevent problems: Pests, whether bugs, weeds, or other undesired organisms, are usually the symptom of a problem rather than the source. Remove potential pest hiding and breeding sites. Keep outdoor areas clear of trash and standing water. Keep indoor areas clean and dry. Make natural pest enemies welcome such as lady bugs, dragonflies, beetles, toads, bats, and numer- ous other species are natural allies in pest control. Minimize fertilizer. Nitrogen encourages plant growth, but it also provides food for the insects and contributes to disease and mildew. Plant grass varieties that are developed for your area that require less water and fertilizer. St. Angastine grass is commonly recommended in California because of their tolerance for high traffic and drought. Water deeply only when needed and aerate your lawn every 6 months until deep roots are developed. Cut your grass with sharp blades an inch or two higher than what is typical (3 to 4 inches high). A longer thicker lawn crowd weeds. Apply corn gluten meal to turf grass in early spring and fall to prevent germination of dandelions, crabgrass, and other common weeds. Make sure you have a problem: Seeing a bug or weed doesn’t mean you have a pest problem. Take the time to identify your pest. It may be a beneficial bug, so pluck a leaf and take it to the nursery for identification. Identify the damage potential of your pest. It may be a seasonal problem that can be controlled with minimal effort. Ask questions: Will this pest affect only the plant or many plants? Will the pest only this plant during a specific season or for an extended duration? Use less toxic pest control alternatives: You have lots of options for pest control before you resort to synthetic pesticides or herbicides that may be toxic to you, your family, pets, and wildlife. Alternatives to Pesticides – Pluck or wash bugs off of plants by picking off infested leaves by hand. You can do this by carry- ing a bucket of soapy water with you around the garden and if you see an insect, cut and remove the leaf it is on and drop it in the bucket. Dislodge insects with a strong stream of water. This sounds too easy, but it works, especially for aphids and white flies.

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Add natural pest predators to your garden. Ladybugs devour aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, mealy bugs, and other soft-bodied insects. Green lacewings control aphids, whiteflies, small worms, and insect eggs. Decolate snails and toads control snails and slugs. Dragon flies eat the larvae of other insects including mosquitoes. Encircle planters with copper flashing to deter snails and slugs. Make a homemade insecticide by mixing 8 tablespoons of soap flakes such as bar soap (not laundry soap) to a gallon of water and disperse with a watering can or sprayer. Fill a tuna can or other shallow container with beer or yeast solution and place flush with the ground in your flowerbeds. This will lure slugs that will drown in the solution. Sprinkle natural-grade diatomaceous earth in pest hiding places and entry points. Trap aphids and whiteflies with yellow sticky cards. Lure yellow jackets into narrow-necked bottles or jugs of apple juice. Insecticidal soaps are effective against soft-bodied pests such as aphids, mites, whiteflies, and caterpillars. Use a superior or summer oil spray to control aphids, mites, scale insects, whiteflies, and other pests. Use vegetable-oil based vs. petroleum-oil based sprays. One example of these type of biodegrad- able pesticides is Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a microbacteria used for controlling caterpillars. Or use organic alternatives made from a natural blend of plant and tree oils. If you choose to use synthetic pesticides, use the right product and the right quantity to treat the problem. Follow the directions exactly and remember that these chemicals can harm you, your pets, and the plant you are trying to save. Try to find products that are environmentally safe and that are labeled as “non toxic” and “biodegradable.” Do not apply when rain is forecasted within the following 7 days and reduce or eliminate irrigation for the same period of time. Take unwanted pesticides to the Orange County Integrated Waste Management Hazardous Waste Collection Center. Do not dispose in your household trash. Alternatives to Herbicides and Fertilizers – Reduce your demand by reducing the size of your grass. Install native planters and gardens on the perimeter or “edgescape.” Native species are adapted to low nutrient soil and do not like soil amend- ments. In fact, most native species will die within months, others say within hours, if fertilized. Cut your grass more often and leave the short clippings on the lawn. The clippings will help reduce evaporation, retain moisture, and degrade quickly providing a natural fertilizer. Pull weeds by hand before there are too many individuals and before they produce seed. Use 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch or shredded redwood bark in flower beds to prevent weeds. Kill weeds in cement cracks with boiling water or a propane torch. ® ® If all else fails, use a Glyphosate based herbicide such as Round-up or Rodeo which is approved by the EPA for use near water bodies. Read the directions and only use the amount of herbicides directed. If you need to use a fertilizer, follow the directions exactly so that you don’t overuse the product.

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Local Community Groups

Coastkeeper South Orange County Watershed Conservancy 441 Old Newport Boulevard, Suite 103 PO Box 130 Newport Beach, CA 92663 Dana Point, CA 92629 (949) 723-5424 [email protected] Clean Water Now! Coalition Surfrider Foundation, Laguna Beach Chapter PO Box 4711 668 North Coast Highway, #266 Laguna Beach, CA 92652 Laguna Beach, CA 92651 [email protected] (949) 631-6273 (949) 497-4816 The Audubon Society Friends of Laguna Creek Laguna Hills Chapter 600 Brooks Street PO Box 2654 Laguna Beach, CA 92651 Laguna Hills, CA 92654 Laguna Beach County Water District http://www.audubon.org 306 Third Street University of California at Irvine Arboretum Laguna Beach, CA 92651 UCI Campus near Jamboree Road & Campus Drive (949) 494-1041 Irvine, CA 92697 Laguna Canyon Conservancy 12 acres of botanical garden and arboretum 303 Broadway Avenue # 107 http://darwin.bio.uci.edu/arboretum/ Laguna Beach, CA 92651 University of California Mailing Address: PO Box 4895 Cooperative Extension Laguna Beach, CA 92652 Master Gardeners of Orange County (949) 497-8324 Gardening information, master gardener program, Laguna Canyon Foundation and Integrated Pest Management resources and 303 Broadway Avenue #107 training. Laguna Beach, CA 92651 http://www.uccemg.com/re01_ipm.shtml (949) 497-8324 Village Laguna Laguna Greenbelt (James Dilly Greenbelt Preserve) PO Box 1309 PO Box 860 Laguna Beach, CA 92651 Laguna Beach, CA 92652 [email protected] (949) 494-8190

State, Federal, and Local Environmental Agencies

California Coastal Conservancy City of Laguna Beach 11th Floor, 1330 Broadway 505 Forest Avenue Oakland, CA 94612 Laguna Beach, CA 92651 (510) 286-1015 (949) 497-3311 http://www.coastalconservancy.ca.gov http://www.lagunabeachcity.net California Department of Fish Game County of Orange South Coast Region Environmental Health Water Quality Program 4949 Viewridge Avenue 2009 East Edinger Avenue San Diego, CA 92123 Santa Ana, CA 92705 (858) 467-4201 (714) 667-3600 http://ocbeachinfo.com California Exotic Pest Plant Council http://www.ochealthinfo.com 1442-A Walnut St., #462 Berkeley, CA 94709 (510) 843-3902 http://www.caleppc.org

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Orange County (Harbors Beaches and Parks) U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Los Angeles District 1 Irvine Park Road, Orange, CA 92869 320 West 4th Street, Suite 200 (866) 627-2757 Los Angeles, CA 90013 [email protected] (213) 452-3908 Municipal Water District of Orange County U.S. Environmental Protection Agency 18700 Ward Street Region 9 Fountain Valley CA 92708 Southern California Field Office (714) 963-3058 600 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 1460 http://www.mwdoc.com/ Los Angeles, CA 90017 (213) 244-1800 SmarTimer Ecoscape Evaluation Program (SEEP) http://www.epa.gov/region9/ http://www.mwdoc.com/SmarTimer/index.html Regional Water Quality Control Board Citizen’s Guide to Pest Control and Pesticide Safety San Diego Region http://www.epa.gov/pesticides 9174 Sky Park Court, Suite 100 Household Waste Recycling and Disposal San Diego, CA 92123-4340 http://www.epa.gov/region09/ (858) 467-2952 http://www.earth911.org http://www.swrcb.ca.gov/rwqcb9 SEEP http://www.lagunabeachcity.net and http://www.mwdoc.com/SmarTimer/index.html

Native Plant Nurseries

California Native Plant Society Theodore Payne Foundation for http://www.cnps.org Wildflowers and Native Plants, Inc. Orange County Local Chapter 10459 Tuxford Street PO Box 54891 Sun Valley, CA 91352 Irvine, CA 92619-4891 (818) 768-1802 http://www.occnps.org Wildflower Hotline (818) 768-3533 Annual plant sale is advertised on CNPS website. http://www.theodorepayne.org Summer (July 1–September 25): Thu–Sat 8:30–4:30 El Nativo Growers Winter (September 26–June 30): Tue–Sat 8:30–4:30 200 S. Peckham Road Azusa, CA 91702 Tree of Life Nursery (626) 969-8449 33201 Ortega Highway http://www.elnativogrowers.com San Juan Capistrano, CA 92693 All questions/orders are placed via e-mail. Orders (949) 728-0685 are typically ready for pickup or delivery within http://www.Californianativeplants.com 48 hours. Open to the public on Fridays year-round, 9:00–4:00 Saturdays in Feb, Mar, Apr, Oct, and Nov, 9:00–4:00 Las Pilitas Nursery 8331 Nelson Way Matilija Nursery Escondido, CA 92026 8225 Waters Road 760-749-5930 Moorpark, CA 93021 http://www.laspilitas.com (805) 523-8604 Also available from Las Pilitas is A Manual of Cali- http://www.matilijanursery.com fornia Native Plants. Yerba Buena Nursery Open to the public Monday through Saturday 19500 Skyline Boulevard from 9am to 4pm. Woodside, CA 94062 Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden (650) 851-1668 1500 North College Avenue http://www.yerbabuenanursery.com/Pruning_Calendar.htm Claremont, CA 91711-3157 (909) 625-8767 http://www.rsabg.org

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Helpful Books, Guides, and Websites

California Rivers and Streams, the Conflict between Fluvial Process and Land Use by Mount, J.F. University of California Press. Berkeley and Los Angeles, California. 1995. California Native Plants for the Garden by Carol Bornstein, David Fross, and Bart O’Brian. Cachuma Press. 2005. California Invasive Plant Council. www.calipc.org. For a list on invasive species or the “Don’t Plant A Pest” brochure and recommended native alternative plants. Gardening with a Wild Heart: Restoring California’s Native Landscapes at Home by Judith Larner Lowry. University of California Press. Berkeley and Los Angeles California. 1999. Growing Native : The Nesletter of the Growing Native Research Institute by Louise Lacey. PO Box 489 Berkeley, California. A series of newsletters ranging from the basics of design and planning to planting in clay soils all available for purchase. Phone (510) 232-9865 or [email protected]. Irrigation Tutorials by Jess Stryker: The web's mother lode of free irrigation information! http://www.irrigationtutorials.com. Invasive Plants of California Wildlands by Carla C. Bossard, John M. Randall, and Marc C. Hoshovsky. University of California Press. Berkeley and Los Angeles California. 2000. Plant and Landscapes for Summer Dry Climates of the San Francisco Bay Region. East Bay Municipal Utility District, Oakland, California. 2004. Plant Life in the Worlds Mediterranean Climates by Peter Dallman. California Native Plant Society and University of California Press. Berkeley and Los Angeles California. 1998. http://www.mediterraneangardensociety.org Plants of El Camino Real, the Catalog and Planting Guide for Tree of Life Nursery. California Native Plants: 2004–2006. http://www.TreeOfLifeNursery.com Planet Natural is an internet store for Earth Friendly Products for Home, Lawn, and Garden. This website sells alternatives to fertilizers, pesticides, composting materials and more. http://www.planetnatural.com/site.html Southern California Heritage Gardening Guide by The Family of Southern California Water Agencies. 2003. http://www.bewaterwise.com The California Landscape Garden: Ecology, Culture, and Design by Mark Francis and Andreas Reimann. University of California Press. Berkeley and Los Angeles California. 1995. The Los Angeles Home Tree Guide, Using Shade Trees to Save Energy and Money and Beautify Your Home’s Surroundings, Trees for a Green LA. Los Angeles Department of Water and Power. 2002. http://www.GreenLA.com The Worlds Best Organic Compost Tumbler. http://www.organic-compost-tumbler.com

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