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ITALIAN WHITES Cantina Tramin Cantina Terlan Nussbaumer, Alto Adige Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva, My dream First vintage 1990 Alto Adige Variety 100% Gewürztraminer First vintage 1993 Average annual production 65,000 Variety 100% Pinot Bianco bottles Average annual production 55,000 bottles dozen whites Is there another grape variety with as Want to try the best dry whites that Italy has to offer? pretty an aromatic profile as While most examples of Pinot Bianco Tom Hyland picks his 12 all-time favourites, an eclectic Gewürztraminer? Offering perfumes from Alto Adige are tasty, bunch of wines that all offer abundant regional of roses, with notes of lychee, straightforward, steel-aged wines, the grapefruit and even a hint of lanolin, a Vorberg Riserva takes things up a character, cellaring potential – and huge enjoyment beautifully rendered Gewürz is like no notch or two, as the cooperative other white wine. The grape’s name – sources high-elevation fruit literally ‘spicy one from Tramin’ – is (450m-950m) and matures the wine apt, as the small town of Tramin is in large oak barrels. There is Above: Franz Pratzner dug up his orchard home to several excellent examples. abundant spice, and – while the and replaced it with Riesling vines Cantina Tramin, one of the region’s acidity is a touch lower than usual finest cooperatives, produces this with this variety due to the later special bottling, Nussbaumer, every harvest – the richness on the palate and Falkenstein year, and it stands out, not only for its balance give it a multi-dimensional Riesling, Val Venosta, Alto Adige varietal purity – which is unparalleled character not often found with Pinot First vintage 1995 – but also for its complexity and Bianco. Best of all, this is an inspired Variety 100% Riesling persistence. Other local examples may partner for a wide variety of foods, Average annual production 40,000 be weightier or more florality, but the from river fish to roast veal. bottles Nussbaumer is distinguished year after year by its overall harmony and Cantina Terlan, Vorberg While Riesling is not the first white In the high-altitude vineyards finesse – as well as that characteristic Pinot Bianco Riserva, variety you associate with Italy, there of Cantina Terlan in Alto Adige sensation of spice on the finish. Alto Adige 2014 92 are some notable versions produced £27.50 Astrum Wine Cellars in the north. Among the most Cantina Tramin, Nussbaumer Alto Adige’s everyday variety, distinctive is that of Falkenstein in Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige Pinot Bianco, is given a Val Venosta, not far from the Swiss FOR DECADES, ITALY’S white wines Vigna Marina Coppi it is highly reminiscent of a premier 2015 93 serious treatment here; high- border. This is an area ideally suited offered little in terms of structure or Fausto, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont cru or grand cru Chablis. It also £25.99 Hallgarten Druitt & Novum altitude vineyards; large to the variety, as owner and complexity; their role was that of an First vintage 2007 evolves beautifully over time; Classic, stylish version of this barrel ageing; beautiful winemaker Franz Pratzner will tell aperitif or as a partner with lighter Variety 100% Timorasso Bellocchio recommends cellaring this famous Alto Adige variety from texture and spice; expressive you, given the steepness of the hills cuisine. Thankfully, over the past 15 Average annual production 6,500 bottles wine, and drinking it when it reaches one of the region’s great quince, saffron and white along with the clay, slate and sandy to 20 years, dedicated vintners from eight to 10 years old. If only any of us cooperatives. It boasts lychee, pepper aromas; cellarworthy; great track soils. He compares this spot to the Alto Adige to Campania and several ‘Why are you journalists so interested could wait that long! yellow rose and mango record. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14% Wachau in Austria. Pratzner, a former regions in between have been crafting in a wine with such limited perfumes; has substantial depth apple producer, transitioned to grape stellar whites that have broadened the production?’ owner and winemaker Vigne Marina Coppi, Fausto of fruit; and abundant spice on varieties about 30 years ago. He focus of Italian viticulture. Francesco Bellocchio asked during my Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont the finish. It also ages surprisingly well. Below: the Cantina Tramin winery’s ferments his Riesling in large acacia According to Roberto Giuliani, a recent visit to his property. Given the 2013 94 Drink 2018-2025 Alc 15% design reflects the colour of the vineyard casks, and then ages the wine on ➢ leading Italian wine journalist, this quality and unique nature of his £37.99 Liberty shift started with a change of mindset Timorasso, he must have known the A dynamic version of this by producers. ‘In recent years many answer, as it is a white that is much unique indigenous variety from ‘Sleek, subtle and white wines capable of ageing have greater than the sum of its parts. Piedmont. Pear, lemon oil and been created – until recently, it was Named for Bellocchio’s grandfather hibsicus aromas; powerful understated, only red wines that enjoyed this Fausto Coppi, a champion cyclist from mid-palate, robust texture; quality. Now wine lovers are changing this area during the 1940s and ’50s, lengthy finish with distinct Falkenstein compares their perceptions and starting to buy the wine combines high acidity and minerality. Steel tank- not only approachable whites for early great richness on the palate with fermented and matured. Great cellaring favourably to other drinking, but also whites to cellar and notable persistence and minerality; potential. Drink 2018-2026 Alcohol 14% drink with some age,’ he says. great Rieslings around These personal favourites illustrate this upward trajectory in quality and ‘Vigna Marina Coppi’s Fausto is highly the world, yet it has its complexity, spanning a range of varieties, regions and price points. reminiscent of a premier cru or grand cru Chablis’ Photographs: own unique charms’ 52 | Italy 2018 • DECANTER DECANTER • Italy 2018 | 53 ITALIAN WHITES ITALIAN WHITES its lees for 10 months in those same ‘Verdicchio offers great complexity and subtlety, casks, lending a singular edge to the Andrea Felici final wine. Sleek and understated, it and ages as well as any Italian white wine’ Il Cantico della Figura Riserva compares favourably to other great Verdicchio, Marche Rieslings around the world, yet it has First vintage 2003 its own unique charms. wine. Also, it’s fantastic value, Variety 100% Verdicchio comparing favourably with more Average annual production 10,000 Falkenstein, Riesling, Val expensive wines from neighbouring bottles Venosta, Alto Adige 2014 92 estates; it’s also as consistent a Soave £25 Dolce Vita Classico as there is. Leonildo Pieropan While there are many candidates for From far northern Alto Adige, blends Trebbiano di Soave with Italy’s finest white variety, there is a Riesling of great harmony and Garganega, a long-time tradition of little argument that Verdicchio is the suppleness; ideally ripe with this area; this results in a wine of country’s most underappreciated. intriguing apricot and bok choy impressive complexity, much more so Planted in two main zones in Marche, aromas. Slate soils assure a than the typical entry-level Soave. Verdicchio offers great complexity and strong minerality; very dry with Always displaying good acidity and subtlety, and ages as well as any sleek acidity; subtle and smooth, freshness, this drinks well for three to Italian white wine. This wine, from it plays up to its food pairings. five years after the vintage. Above: Paolo Bosoni inherited Cantine the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13% Lunae in 1966 and still supervises denomination, is a thing of beauty. Pieropan, Soave Classico, Sourced from a visually stunning, Veneto 2016 90 organically farmed vineyard with Livio Felluga £14.99 Liberty originates from hillside vineyards vines of 50 years and over, the grapes Terre Alte, Rosazzo, Friuli Simply a classic Soave, and near the sea in Liguria. There’s a are fermented on their skins in First vintage 1981 probably the best of its type. It is sleekness as it glides across your cement tanks, then aged in cement Varieties 50% Friulano, 25% Pinot Bianco, a medium-bodied wine with palate along with a generous embrace before bottling. The result is a wine of 25% Sauvignon Blanc impressive depth of fruit; of acidity – a trademark of the variety great purity, harmony and finesse. In Average annual production 35,000 honeydew melon, spearmint and – that is very alluring. Then there are the space of only a decade, Leopardo bottles lilac aromas; the addition of those enticing perfumes of white Felici has delivered one of the great Trebbiano di Soave lends flowers and tropical fruit that caress examples of Verdicchio, and one of the Terre Alte is arguably Italy’s most notable complexity; wonderful you from the start. Cantine Lunae country’s most sublime wines. famous white wine. While premium value. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13.5% Bosoni produces two Vermentinos, blends of three or more white with this Etichetta Nera (black label) Andrea Felici, Il Cantico della varieties have become more common being more expressive than the Figura Riserva, Verdicchio dei in Friuli, no other producer has been Cantine Lunae Bosoni Etichetta Grigia (grey label); the Castelli di Jesi, Marche 2013 94 able to make such a dazzling example Etichetta Nera Vermentino, Colli di former is sourced from higher £22.75 Lea & Sandeman as this. Winemaker Andrea Felluga Above: Livio Felluga’s Luni, Liguria elevations with clay soils, as opposed From a relatively new estate, one states that the aim was ‘to create a signature Terre Alte First vintage 1994 to valley floor plantings with sandy of the area’s purest, most wine that could stand comparison Variety 100% Vermentino soils.