Island Explore and Experience Second Edition

A Travel and Walking Guide with maps by Charlene Caprio & Lefteris Tsouris

Includes Fournoi Islands Ikaria Island Explore and Experience

A Travel and Walking Guide with maps by Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris

Second Edition

Published by: Authors: Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris Wooden Hull Press 2019 Editors: Peter Wan, Selene Hellström, Katherine Tsantiris © Wooden Hull Press Cover photo: Lefteris Tsouris © Peter Wan (Indicated photos) Photos: Lefteris Tsouris, Charlene Caprio, and Peter Wan

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this Book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and/or recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing, by the publisher with consent by both authors, or for a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review. Requests for permission should be addressed to: [email protected].

Wooden Hull Press ISBN 978-0-578-40406-6 34 Woodland Street Printed in New Haven, CT 06511 USA [email protected] The authors do not warrant that the data or information in this Guide, or the data or information of third party links or resources referenced in this Guide, will be accurate and/or error-free. We do not assume responsibility for any errors, mistakes, mishaps or misinterpretations as well as for the accuracy, correctness, topicality or quality of the information provided.

Updates, Feedback and Inquiries

Although the authors walked the routes highlighted in this Guide in the summer of 2018, Ikaria’s landscape is not constant. Paths may alter from landslides and other conditions, and markers and signs may shift. Also, as we are only human, there may be some errors in this Guide. Please help keep this Guide updated and accurate. Record errors, notable details and route changes and send them to us. If you own a GPS device or a smartphone with GPS tracking, please send us the data information. Kindly address all correspondence to: [email protected].

Safety

Safety is an important concern for all outdoor activities and must always be placed rst. We cannot alert you to every hazard or anticipate the limitations of every reader. The descrip- tions of roads, routes and other matters in this Guide are not an indication that a particular road, footpath or route will be safe for you. When you follow information and routes suggest- ed in this Guide, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Keep informed on weather conditions at all times, which may change rapidly, and stay alert to your own body and the conditions of the path or road, your water and food supply, the time of day and your general surroundings. Use common sense and always assume that you need to consume more water and food when walking, hiking or engaging in any other physical activity. Check with your physician before exploring the routes or other activities suggested in this Guide. .

Note on this Edition

This Second Edition contains many updates and additions. While most of Ikaria remains unchanged, a few more roads got paved, the archaeological museum re-opened and activities like sur ng, scuba diving, ceramics and yoga became available. Also, we highlight more of our favorite restaurants, cafes and places to stay. Listening to readers’ feedback, we added a footpath on Ikaria‘s northeastern side, included a footpath to the ‘anti-pirate’ village Lagkada and removed the Atheras Ridgeline Hike (see Walk 6) due to its length. For the Ridge- line Hike, consult with a local hikers group. We also added information on how to extend your travels to visit the nearby Fournoi Islands, with maps and a suggested walking route. .

2 Table of Contents

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION...... 8 PART I: BRIEF HISTORY OF IKARIA ...... 13 From Myth to Reality: Do not y too close to the Sun ...... 13 History up to the Present ...... 14 Ikaria’s Museums...... 19 PART II: PLANNING YOUR VISIT ...... 21 When to Visit...... 21 Getting to Ikaria ...... 22 What to Bring ...... 23 Where to Stay...... 24 How to Get Around ...... 26 Visas and Money ...... 27 Spotlight: The Ikarian Road Network Paradox ...... 28 PART III: IKARIAN LIFE, FOOD AND FUN...... 30 The Ikarian Way ...... 30 Ikarian Food ...... 31 Local Ikarian Products...... 35 Religion, Churches and Monasteries ...... 37 Spotlight: Ikaria’s Festivals (Panigiria) ...... 38 Spotlight: Ikaria’s Thermal Hot Springs ...... 39 PART IV: IKARIA’S NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ...... 41 Ecosystems and Microclimates ...... 41 Ikaria’s Geology ...... 42 Ikaria’s Flora ...... 42 Ikaria’s Fauna ...... 43 Life in the Seas...... 44 The Ikarian Sky...... 45 Environmental Protection ...... 45 PART V: IKARIA’S FOOTPATHS - 10 SELECTED ROUTES ...... 48 Preparing for the Walks...... 48 Hikers’ Code of Ethics ...... 50 Maps Legend and Notes ...... 51 THE ROUTES ...... 53 1. Chalari River Canyon (Christos - Nas) Walk ...... 53 2. The Spanaioi Watermill Walk with additional Walk to a Reservoir and Monastery of Mounte ...... 57 3. Pezi, Ryaka Waterfall and Selini Pond Walk ...... 60 4. Ranti Forest and Cave Walk...... 64 5. Koskinas Castle and Mt. Atheras Cli Walk ...... 68 6. Exploring Arethousa and ...... 72 7. Ikaria’s Western Edge and Remote Villages ...... 76 8. Ikaria’s Eastern Edge - Drakano Tower, , and the WWII Bunker ...... 81 9. Ikaria’s Eastern Edge - Agia Kyriaki Hot Spring / Iero Beach...... 83 10. Ksylosyrtis (Papas) Watermill and Lefkada Hot Spring...... 86 Advertisement section...... 89 FOURNOI ISLANDS ...... 94 Fournoi Islands - A walking Route ...... 95

3 About this Guide

INTRODUCTION

Ikaria Island, also spelled ‘’ (Gr.: Iκαρία), located in Greece’s Eastern Aegean region, is a world of its own. Craggy mountains reach across its elongated spine, giving Ikaria the shape of a stretched out peanut. This rela�vely small island boasts a complex topography of high ridgelines, steep slopes, plateaus, valleys, waterfalls, canyons, rivers, ponds, sandy and rocky beaches and other natural wonders. But Ikaria has remained largely a secret. Not much can be descried when gazing up from Ikaria’s shores. For centuries Ikaria’s popula�on lived deep in the moun- tains, carving out homes in sca�ered hamlets, o�en to hide from pirates and other invaders. As centuries progressed, Ikaria stayed rela�vely isolated due to its lack of natural harbors and its rugged terrain. In turn, Ikaria’s natural environment flourished with rela�vely li�le interference. Today, Ikaria is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna (including some rare and endangered species), spreading over a drama�c landscape of microclimates. Hot and sunny summers give way to cold, rainy winters, suppor�ng plush vegeta�on and rich seasonal varie�es. Many flowers (orchids, larkspurs, cyclamen, oleanders, bell flowers, etc.) grow wild on the island. Ikaria’s local popula�on, depending largely on subsistence farming, communal �es and stout individualism, has adapted to the island’s condi�ons with pride. It isn’t a surprise that Ikaria’s secrets are now being discovered. Locals celebrate their 100th birthday more frequently than in most places in the world, and people want to know why. Ikaria indeed has secrets on how to live long with a simplicity that surmounts any wealth. However, they are s�ll secrets only because not many people experience Ikaria the way that Ikarians do. We believe that the best way to understand Ikaria is by exploring the island’s footpaths, called ‘monopatia’ (Gr.: μονοπάτια). Spanning over 150km in a configura�on akin to a giant spider web over the island, Ikaria’s footpaths evolved over hundreds of years. Many of them connect remote villages with rivers, watermills, forests, mountain peaks, sea areas, more natural elements and other villages. The footpaths also reach areas inaccessible by vehicles and traverse the mountains’ inner folds. By exploring the footpaths, you will start to discover Ikaria‘s unique environment and culture. You will witness locals going about their daily lives, gathering herbs, farming, shepherding, conversing at cafes, and maybe even slaughtering a goat over a tree stump. You will smell Ikaria’s air scented with fruits, spices and flowers. You will hear kids (baby goats) hurrying through the woods, honeybees buzzing around thyme bushes and rivers flowing down valleys. You will feel Ikaria’s winds, mists and shrubs wrap around your body and the climate of dry, rocky plateaus. You may also encoun- ter abandoned villages and ‘an�-pirate’ houses. You will undoubtedly taste local food and dine alongside Ikarians.

8 About this Guide

Please also be prepared for the unexpected. Ikaria’s terrain and weather are full of contradic�ons. Condi�ons can change quickly from dry to rainy, windy to s�ll, flat to steep, and hot to cold. Mists can envelop cliffs and forests in a ma�er of minutes. Winds can ra�le your legs. But you will probably sense an astounding harmony in all of Ikaria’s contradic�ons, celebra�ng the island’s unique, renegade spirit. In Part V of this Guide, we highlight ten recommended routes for your explora- �on. They follow footpaths and also lead to other a�rac�ons. The routes range from easy to difficult, though most routes are suitable for visitors in good walking condi- �on. Bear in mind that Ikaria’s footpaths mark the original network of communica- �on across the island. Thus, footpaths have been used by locals throughout centu- ries. Nevertheless, the condi�ons are probably not what you are used to, no ma�er where you have walked before. Follow the guidance in Parts II and V of this Guide on how to prepare and what to expect while walking on Ikaria. . Borrowing words from an Ikarian farmer: Ikaria is very generous; it offers its nature for exploring, clean air for breathing, trees for shade and plants for food. Ikaria gives a lot to visitors without asking much in return. Thus, in exchange for all that you will experience and learn on Ikaria, we ask from you just one thing: kindly respect Ikaria by following the Hiker’s Code of Ethics in Part V. Please be gentle to this island that has survived in its rudimentary form for thousands of years. Experi- ence Ikaria, but help keep it the special place that it is.

Sincerely,

Charlene Caprio Le�eris Tsouris

Don’t be surprised if you encounter raised eyebrows when you say that you have chosen Ikaria as your des�na�on. will want to know if you made a mistake; or, if you are as wise as the choice conveys. We believe (by seeing it happen) that what you experience on Ikaria may change the way that you think about life, nature and the world around you. A wonderful rejuvena�on of life o�en happens to people who take �me to understand Ikaria.

9 Part I

Ancient Ikaria

Some sources place inhabitants on Ikaria as early as 7,000 B.C. Most archaeologi- cal findings date to the late Greek an�quity and Roman periods. The Ikaria of ancient Greece was established during the forma�on of the Greek city states. According to the ancient historian, Aristomenes, his contemporary geographer recorded that the first se�lers came to Ikaria by , an ancient Ionian city located on the coast of Asia Minor (present-day ). They founded Oinoe (which lies in present-day Kampos on Ikaria). Fragments of ancient Oinoe are visible by road or via one of Ikaria’s footpaths. In Kampos there is also a small archaeological collec�on worth visi�ng. (see page 20) The area of Drakano on the eastern �p of Ikaria was an ancient se�lement area thought to be associated with the cult of . Drakano tower dates from 400-300 B.C. Small fragments of ancient ruins are also sca�ered around Iero beach, though not labeled. Remains of megalithic stones (menhirs) have been discovered in the Propezoulopi hills, to the west of Faros. Thermal baths have also been u�lized since an�qity. While you explore Ikaria’s eastern side, visit the archaeo- 7: The Tower of Drakano logical museum in . (see page 19) The ancient Temple of Tauropolos, built on the northwestern edge of Ikaria, rests in its founda�onal ruins in present day Nas. Nas is a locally shortened version of the word Ναός, meaning temple. The word Tauropolos (Gr.: Ταυροπόλος) meant bull tamer. Artemis was the goddess of the wilderness, wild animals, the hunt and fer�lity. The choice is fi�ng for a temple built at the mouth of a wild and tempestuous bay. Strong waves and winds might rip apart ancient vessels, unless the goddess was properly beseeched to tame nature’s forces. The Temple’s ruins lie right where the Chalari River flows down from Ikaria’s mountainous wilderness and emp�es into Nas beach. Part of the ruins are said to be submerged. If the sea is calm, ask locals where to swim to find them. 8: Ruins at Oinoe As �me went by, Ikaria was annexed into the city state of under the tyrant, Polykrates. Ikaria did not escape the subsequent Persian occupa�on and rule. A�er the famous Battle of Salamis in 480 B.C., Ikaria became part of the Athenian League un�l the Macedonian king, , began in 336 B.C. to annex every Greek city and region into his empire.

15 Part II

Spotlight: The Ikarian Road Network Paradox

Ikarian roads are a messy paradox. Some s�ll look to be an experiment. You will quickly no�ce their rudimentary state, and how they are shared with trucks, farming vehicles, carts, scooters and goats. At �mes traffic slows down to a halt to share a lane with oncoming traffic or livestock. Also, roads twist into the mountains without guardrails and test the nerves of ver�go-prone passengers. There are no traffic lights on the island. It is Ikarian e�que�e to let other vehicles, carts and goats pass first. The mountainous terrain is prone to landslides and erosion. A landslide has blocked the main road from Karkinagri to Maggani�s for years now, and locals don’t seem to be crying over the hassle this causes for travel �me. During fall and winter, mists and storms can decrease visibility. Check the weather beforehand and gauge any fast-moving clouds; try not to get caught in dangerous driving condi�ons. If you see a petrol sta�on, fill up! They are sparsely situated around the island and may be open at inconvenient �mes for your schedule. Check the Ikaria map on pages 6-7 and make note of the petrol sta�ons. Road signs indicate names of villages (in Greek) and the number of kilometers to them. Please drive slowly and s�ck to the primary roads colored red and thick orange on the maps in this Guide. A wrong road can also lead 21: A typical Ikarian road you astray for hours, and might splinter off to impenetrable chunks of earth. If you do venture onto the secondary road network (colored in thin orange and white on the maps), be prepared for a scary, bumpy journey. On the secondary roads, you will no�ce rough patches of concrete because locals just fix things up themselves. Also, curves in the roads o�en get re-blasted a�er the winter. Fallen boulders and loose rocks can scrape the bo�om of your car and cause shaking or �re punctures. At any �me, if a road feels too steep or unsafe for driving, or a large cliff beside the road is making you dizzy, find a place to stop, park, con�nue on foot, or turn around and accept that nature dictates the condi�ons on Ikaria.

22: Road construction close to Proespera

28 Part II

23: Don’t miss the famous (but hidden) Seychelles beach near Magganitis

24: Explore the ‘Spanaioi’ Watermill nestled along the stream in Kastanies

25: Visit the Monastery of Mounte ensconced in a forest with cypress trees

29 Part IV PART IV: IKARIA’S NATURAL ENVIRONMENT

Ikaria’s natural environment is being praised interna�onally for good reason. This rela�vely small island is home to an incredible amount of biodiversity and microcli- mates, rare and endangered species, and astounding topography. A complete overview of Ikaria’s natural environment is beyond our short Guide. However, the informa�on below will help guide you, poin�ng out important species to take note of, and references to routes in Part V, as you explore Ikaria’s natural wealth.

Ecosystems and Microclimates

On Ikaria you can find a variety of beaches, rocky inlets, wetlands, dunes, fresh- water ponds, rivers, canyons, slopes, forests, peaks and plateaus, ridgelines, cliffs, and other natural features. Rich varia�ons are tucked into the folds of Ikaria’s eleva- �on changes. Craggy mountains dominate the island’s east-to-west orienta�on. The Mt. Atheras ridgeline and Mt. Melissa at the western side together bend Ikaria into northern and southern halves angling down to the sea. .

Quickly altering in terrain, eleva�on and microclimates, and further changing with the seasons, Ikaria’s environment essen�ally offers a life�me course in natural discovery.

Ikaria’s anima can best be described by its weather. The Greek gods could not conjure up more capricious and crazy condi�ons. Differences in air temperatures (from sea level to the ridgelines) generate fast moving clouds, thick mists and intense storms (especially in winter). The meltemi winds turn Ikaria’s seas choppy (late summer and winter) and push forward surfing waves. Rainfalls (during late fall and winter) create waterfalls, fresh water ecosystems and plush vegeta�on – much more than what would be expected on a 41: Meltemi winds pushing waves toward Ikaria Greek island. Winter storms are intense and o�en take down trees, as you will see if you explore Pezi’s mountain area. (See Route 3)

By the �me summer comes around, Ikaria relaxes under tranquil blue skies and an incredible abundance of sunshine. Summer visitors will experience none of the winter’s forces, though the effects can be seen in the varie�es of vegeta�on, flowing rivers and weather beaten terrain.

41 Part V ROUTE 1: Chalari River Canyon (Christos - Nas) Walk

Route Time: 3.5-4.5hrs Distance: 6.1km Elevation Low / High: 0m / 430m Rating: Moderate with some di cult terrain. This is a challenging uphill hike in reverse. Route Notes: Mostly downhill with uphill portions in rst half of trail. Some fallen trees and loose rocks; wear closed hiking boots. One way route. Arrange transportation beforehand. Marking / Signposting: red dots, red marks, wooden signs, arrows.

The Chalari River starts high up in the mountains and flows down to Nas beach, descending about 5km. It has carved out one of the island's most important ecosys- tems. The canyon is rich in flora and fauna and changing landscapes, while a tower- ing wall of mountains encloses its western edge, enhancing the sense of solitude, depth and magnitude. Some protected species live in the canyon and migratory birds stop here too, while freshwater species inhabit the Chalari River. No visit to Ikaria is complete without exploring the Chalari canyon and its riverbed.

Start: Drive to the village of Christos from Armenis�s, keeping right, past Agios Dimitrios and up to 'Christos Rachon' (Gr.:Χριστός Ραχών) as a sign informs you. Park near the center square at Christos. (Some locals refer to Christos as Rahes, and vice versa, but Rahes is the extended mountainous region all around Christos.) Along the western edge of Christos, find the sign on the right for the footpath (Gr.: Φαράγγι της Χάλαρης = Chalari Canyon) that descends between a house and a taverna. You will follow the footpath le� and down the back area of the village, passing dense vegeta�on, stone walls, wild flowers such as larkspurs and crocuses, and orange and plum trees. Veer right when the path forks, and soon follow red arrows at the side of a house. At the next fork follow the sign to Chalaris downwards. Descend a bit, to then ascend up to a short stone staircase to a wider path connec�ng to a dirt road. Turn le�, up the dirt road.

In about 50m there will be a sign to follow a narrow footpath down a scratchy slope. This 100m stretch has grown wild; if you walk it, next turn le� onto the dirt road bisec�ng the slope and walk this road for about 0.5km. You’ll reach the entrance to the trail route (keeping to the road the whole �me instead of the scratchy slope will also lead you to this point). A trail sign cau�ons you that this is a rough trail. Winter storms can also add new challenges and sign changes every year.

Follow the trail into the canyon, traversing the eastern slope. Some parts have a nice wooden handrail. You’ll ascend a few uphill stretches. Turn right at a fork with a bent metal sign poking up from the ground poin�ng towards Nas. (The le� branch leads to the old Loupastra bridge, which was destroyed by a fury of winter waters gushing down the river, and it also ascends to Raksounia waterfalls and Proespera village. See map.) You’ll pass through a couple of gates. At the third gate don’t go through it but pass by on its right. .

53 Part V

59: A Chalari River blue dragon y 60: A caution sign at the trail entrance

61: Boy re ecting over the temple ruins at Nas

62: On the way down to Nas 63: The Chalari River forms many fresh water pools

55 26°3'20"E 26°3'40"E 26°4'0"E 26°4'20"E 26°4'40"E 1. CHALARI CANYON To Armenistis To Armenistis 3.5-4.5hrs

6.1km 37°37'20"N

Nas Beach Nas 318 artemis tavropolos sanctuary 0.9 km 37°37'0"N 37°37'0"N

0.4

1km

Ksinta 37°36'40"N 37°36'40"N

26o04’37’’ E 0.5 37o36’24’’ N To Kato km Proespera Litani Agios 37°36'20"N

37°36'20"N Dimitrios N

501 O

Y 26o04’38’’ E N km 37o35’57’’ N

A 1.4

C 0.6km 37°36'0"N 0.6km Christos 37°36'0"N km

0.7

I R

A

L

A

H 37°35'40"N

37°35'40"N C Anemomylos 0 250 500 Meters Pourgezato

Scale 1:20.000 Pro tis Elias Raksounia Ratsos Agia Marina A anes Winery 37°35'20"N

37°35'20"N 26°3'20"E 26°3'40"E 26°4'0"E 26°4'20"E 26°4'40"E Part V

79: Just beyond this patch of Holm Oaks is the most western point of this trail

80: An o -peeling strawberry tree branch

66 Fournoi Islands

ROUTE: Fournoi Village - Churches Panorama

Route Time: 3.0hrs Distance: 3km Elevation Low / High: 10m / 235m Rating: Easy to Moderate; uphill and downhill stretches Marking / Signposting: footpath signs; red markers

This suggested route will bring you high above Fournoi Village for stunning views, an incredible sense of remoteness amidst Aegean blue serenity, and a visit to four churches. The walk also takes you to the overlook point of the ancient Acropolis. .

Start: Look for the footpath sign on a lamppost at the back of Fournoi’s plataea square. Follow the arrow for Ag. Marina towards the back of the village. Veer right at a red dot on a whitewashed staircase. Turn le� up the staircase and find your way up to the shrine of Ag. Sos�s. Con�nuing on the route up to the end of the village you’ll reach the rocky path ascending between prickly pears and a stone wall. You’ll pass another shrine and reach a road. Turn le� on the road and look down for the best views over Fournoi village. Next to a house find the path marker to turn right, up the terrain, passing a gate and ascend- ing higher. At the next road turn right and in about ten steps the path cuts le� into the scratchy hill. If the path turns faint, keep the whitewashed church up ahead as your des�na�on. Once you reach Ag. Marina take a break and enjoy the breathtaking views over both sides of Fournoi and some smaller islands. Exit the opposite way that you came and turn le� onto the road to visit Ag. Eirini and its 112: Starting point sign. Follow the bottom arrow. impressive wall pain�ngs. Next, con�nue down the road to Panagia and see its collec�on of icons. Then exit from the back of Panagia and walk right along the dirt road to Ag. Georgios, which stands atop a high lookout that served as an ancient defensive point and acropolis. From here either hike the steep rugged path down to Fournoi Village or, as we suggest, back track on the dirt road past Panagia and find the more gradual footpath that leads to Fournoi village. .

If this walk en�ced you to explore more of Fournoi by foot, visit Chrysomilia village and inquire about the walking routes in that area, or take a ferry to Themaina island which offers remote but rewarding paths. Inquire about the condi�ons of these paths with locals. . 95 Fournoi Islands

113: View of Fournoi village from the walking path.

114: Traditional Fishing boats of Fournoi.

115: Pebbles and secluded bay of Petrokopio beach.

96