Saxony-Anhalt ’s Cultural Treasure Chest 2

VINEYARDS SURROUND FREYBURG (UNSTRUT)

Saxony-Anhalt

Germany Capital: Magdeburg Area: 7,895 square miles Population: 2.5 million www.sachsen-anhalt.de

3 ,, You are invited to Saxony-Anhalt: Germany’s cultural treasure chest. Stephan ,, Dorgerloh Secretary for Education and Two decades after the peaceful revolution and the subsequent reunification of Culture Germany, it is time to discover – or re-discover – the cultural heart of Germany. Despite the rebirth of our state, our heritage has never changed.

In the past twenty years we have worked hard to restore our magnificent castles and impressive cathedrals, powerful fortresses and atmospheric old towns. So now, I would like you to visit these magical places, with stories that resonate around the world. At the same time, we have built competitive new businesses, many of which trade abroad, often with our friends in the United States of America. In fact, we attract more inward investment than any other former East German state.

We believe that much of our success, both present and future, is built on our past. Although Germany’s cultural treasure chest is about the same size as New Jersey, it has long stood at a cultural crossroads. Our history stretches back over a thousand years and includes many famous people, who have influenced the world:

• Martin Luther, the reformer and catalyst for the Protestant Reformation • Otto von Bismarck, who unified the nation state that is Germany • J. S. Bach and George Frederick Handel, two of the world’s great composers • Lucas Cranach, the finest painter of his era • Walter Gropius, the architect and founder of the Bauhaus

As I have mentioned, we have glorious buildings, from churches and castles to half- timbered houses and 20th-century classics designed by the Bauhaus (the Bauhaus Dessau Foundation continues here in Saxony-Anhalt). But, it is the great individuals, both men and women, who have inspired us for centuries. What’s more, many of them sailed to the U.S.A. and left their mark on American history.

• Henry Muhlenberg was the Patriarch of the Lutheran Church in North America; his descendants played a major role in U.S. politics and government. • Friedrich von Steuben was General Washington’s Chief of Staff and is remembered across the U.S.A. with annual German-American Steuben Parades.

I invite you to read through the following pages, which also take you to our gardens, vineyards and unspoiled countryside; to our classical concerts and traditional Christmas markets; and, of course, our taverns – places to meet and chat to locals. After all, as I said, we are all about people.

Willkommen in Sachsen-Anhalt! Welcome to Saxony-Anhalt!

Stephan Dorgerloh Secretary for Education and Culture 4

SAXONY-ANHALT’S CULTURAL TREASURE CHEST

Lifting the lid on Saxony-Anhalt’s 1,000-year- old cultural treasure chest reveals a surprisingly wide array of riches. There are great musicians and great architects, historic buildings and glori- ous gardens, fine wines and inspired artists. And 12 there are men who sailed the Atlantic to make a major impact on the history of the United States of America. THE AMERICAN CONNECTION SAXONY-ANHALTERS IN THE U.S.A.

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MARTIN LUTHER CULTURAL

And the Protestant Reformation POWERHOUSE From art to music

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THE BAUHAUS A SAXONY-ANHALT

Changing the way we live SPECIALTY Half-timbered houses 5

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WINE AND FOOD ANNUAL FESTIVALS

Local specialties AND EVENTS

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CONTEMPORARY MAP OF CREATIVITY SAXONY-ANHALT New names, new ideas Inside back cover

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE

Saxony-Anhalt has more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other state in Germany. This honor places some of the state‘s greatest treasures on the same level of cultural importance as the Py- ramids in Egypt, the Great Wall of China and the Statue of Liberty in the U.S.A. 28 The four sites are: the Old Town of Quedlinburg, the sites associated with Luther in Lutherstadt Wittenberg and Lutherstadt Eisleben, the Dessau- THE GREEN STATE Wörlitz Garden Kingdom and the Bauhaus in Dessau. World class gardens 6

MARTIN LUTHER (1483-1546)

In 1508, Martin Luther took up a teaching position at the university in Wittenberg. Nine years later, on October 31, 1517, the 34-year-old monk nailed his “95 Theses” to the door of the Castle Church in this important trading town. His act of defiance set in motion a chain of events that changed the history of the world. 7

the church. But his action prompted theological discussion and many agreed with his views.

And, there was more. Luther translated the New Testament into German, believing that ordinary people MARTIN LUTHER should be able to read the Holy Scripture for themselves. Published in 1522, the first edition sold out; demand continued and in two years, it was reprinted over 60 and the times. The subsequent edition (1534), with both Old and Protestant New Testaments, continued to be a “bestseller.” Church

What started out as an attempt to reform the Roman Catholic Church in Europe led to what is known as the Protestant Reformation. This was not just one single event; it was a string of episodes that resulted in a massive change.

When Martin Luther strode on to the stage of history, he was the right man in the right place and at the right time. After much study of the Bible, he decided that salvation was a personal matter between man and God. He also objected to practices such as the selling of “indulgences,” seen by many as a way of “buying your way into heaven.” He argued that the Catholic Church had to be reformed, so that it would be more fair, less greedy and accessible to all.

Debate was one thing, but a public challenge to papal authority was a serious matter. After Luther nailed his 95 Theses to the door, this highly-intellectual German monk was condemned as a heretic and declared an outlaw by LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG

The Castle Church, where Luther nailed his 95 Theses.

LUTHERSTADT Wittenberg The Luther decade Luther House Now one of the four UNESCO In 2017, Protestant communities around the world will celeb- World Heritage sites in Saxony- rate Martin Luther’s famous act of protest in Wittenberg. What Anhalt, this former Augustinian he did – and why – resonated over the years and across the monastery was Luther‘s home. world. He may not have actually said, “Here I stand. I cannot Now a museum of the Reforma - do otherwise.” But, his challenge to authority was based on tion, the highlight is the Living the idea that an individual had – and must follow – his own Room, with its 16th-century furnishings. A professor at Wit- religious conscience. Once unleashed, that revolutionary idea tenberg University, many of his could not be stopped. And, when Protestants sailed from the conversations with his colleagues Old World to the New a century or so later, one of the reasons and students are collected in a for the journey was to have the freedom to worship as they book, Table Talk (1566). wished. | www.luther2017.de

Luther House 8 LUTHER The man who changed history

Although Luther lived five centuries ago, his presence is still tangible. In the cultural treasure chest that is Saxony-Anhalt, visitors can, literally, walk in his footsteps. They can see pulpits from which he preached, and even eat the sort of sausages that he would have enjoyed. They can also see what he looked like. As well as statues and portraits, there is his death mask – and also a cast of his hands – on display in Halle (Saale). Here, too, are copies of the Bible with his hand-written notes.

Martin Luther was a passionate and charismatic man. On the one hand, he had a ferocious intellect; on the other, he enjoyed his beer and food. He could be as stubborn as a mule, but he was also great company and left thousands of quotable quotes that are pithy, witty and memorable. Although trained as a monk and ordained a priest, he went on to choose a different life. In 1525, he married a former nun, Katharina von Bora (1499-1552) and become a devoted father and family man.

In his later years, Luther continued to write, teach and preach hundreds of sermons, despite suffering from painful illnesses, such as kidney stones. He also wrote music, including carols and hymns, such as A Mighty Fortress Is Our God.

Katharina von Bora (1499-1552)

If ever there was a “power behind the throne,” it was Katharina von Bora. Born of a noble, but poor, family, she was sent away to school and then became a nun. In 1523, with the Reformation under way, she and 11 fellow nuns es - caped from their convent and fled to Wittenberg. According to legend, they were taken in by the painter Lucas Cranach, who was a friend of Martin Luther. On June 13, 1525, the LUTHERSTADT EISLEBEN 42-year-old former monk married the 26-year-old former Martin Luther’s Birthplace nun. During their long and happy marriage, she bore six children, ran the household, organized the family finances, Yet another UNESCO World Heritage site in Saxony-Anhalt, dealt with Luther‘s publishers – and was his sole heir. Eisleben is where Luther was born, in 1483 – and where he died, in 1546. Destroyed by fire in 1689, the Geburtshaus (his birthplace), was reconstructed and soon became an early example of “heritage tourism.” Visitors paid to see the bed where he was, supposedly, born. Today, the house also has a fascinating exhibition about Luther and the region where he lived. 9 THE AMERICAN CONNECTION

REBEL PRIESTS b Over 400 years after Martin Luther’s act of rebellion, his story inspired another minister. In 1934, one Rev. Michael King from Georgia attended the Fifth Baptist World Alliance Congress in Berlin. On that trip, he “discovered” Luther. Inspired by the “rebel priest’s” struggle for personal freedom, he changed his name to Martin Luther King. So did his son and namesake, who became the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., the driving force behind the Ameri- can Civil Rights Movement.

PHILIPP MELANCHTHON (1497-1560)

Martin Luther was the lynchpin of the Reformation, but there were others, who were important in the movement. One of these was Philipp Melanchthon. A fellow professor at the University of Wittenberg, he was a great friend to Luther, supporting, listening to and arguing with the Great Reformer. Preferring reason to passion, Melanchthon stayed calm, even in heated debates, and looked for areas of agreement with fellow Christians. He is buried in the Castle Church in Wittenberg, close to Luther.

HALLE (SAALE)

In the center of the city is the Market Church (Markt- kirche), with its four spires. Just inside is Luther’s death mask. Long after it was made, the features were altered to disguise the effect of a stroke on his eyelid. The gnarled fingers on the cast of his right hand show that he also suffered badly from LUTHER’S WEDDING FESTIVAL rheumatism. WITTENBERG

Martin Luther and Katharina von Bora were married on June 13, 1525. That occasion is celebrated every year with a three-day, medieval-style party. The highlight is the “wedding procession” – a pageant complete with the couple and their friends, such as portrait painter, Lucas Cranach the Elder. 10

THE BAUHAUS

Just over eighty years ago, Dessau was at the heart of a brand new design and architectural movement that still affects the way we live today. Founded in Weimar, the Bauhaus (it translates as “Building School”) took root in Dessau. Between 1925 and 1932, this school of design brought together architects, artists, and designers – and its legacy continues in the 21st century! No wonder it is yet another of Saxony-Anhalt‘s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 11

THE BAUHAUS Changing the way we live

The Bauhaus philosophy addressed several aspects and problems of modern life. One of the primary themes was: How to maintain the human element in an age of increasing industrialization.

The founder and first director was Walter Gropius (1883– 1969), who later moved to the U.S.A. He was followed by two more significant architects, Hannes Meyer (1889– 1954) and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886–1969). By bringing together art, craft, and technology, the Bauhaus aimed to create new designs for new ways of living.

Bauhaus professors and students valued simplicity; they rejected the elaborate detail of the popular late-19th and early-20th century Art Nouveau style. Typical Bauhaus buildings were cubic in shape, with flat roofs and plain façades.

“Open plan” rooms and offices were the norm; chairs, BAUHAUS STAIRCASE tables, and other furniture were functional and quite simplistic. Using modern materials and modern manu- facturing techniques, these could be produced on an industrial scale and relatively cheaply. So, good design did not have to be the prerogative of the wealthy; it could be afforded by ordinary people. Walter Gropius (1883-1969) The Bauhaus movement included every facet of the fine and the applied arts. From architecture and interior, graphic and industrial design to painting and sculpture, all of these disciplines showed the influence of this inno- THE AMERICAN vative school. For example, tubular steel furniture in what CONNECTION is now referred to as the “Bauhaus style” has become a timeless classic, the great-grandfather of designs that are produced today and appreciated the world over. BAUHAUS BUILDINGS b The Bauhaus had a signifi- cant effect on design in North America. Gropius moved to Saxony-Anhalt continues to be a cultural treasure chest the United States in 1937 and became the head of Harvard for architects and designers. Not only does Dessau boast the University’s Graduate School of Design. In the same year, the world’s largest concentration of original Bauhaus architec- New Bauhaus was founded in Chicago (the Dessau school ture, but the Bauhaus Dessau Foundation continues to be a had been closed down by the National Socialists in 1933), center of research, teaching, and experimental design. with László Moholy-Nagy from Dessau as its director. It con- tinues today as the Institute of Design, part of the Illinois Institute of Technology. In New York City, classic Bauhaus- inspired architecture includes the Seagram Building (Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, 1958) and the Whitney Museum of Ameri- can Art (Marcel Breuer, 1966). 12

The Bauhaus The Masters’ Houses

THE BAUHAUS THE MASTERS UNESCO World In 1925, the talent on the faculty was impressive: Walter Gropius, László Moholy-Nagy (painter, graphic artist, Heritage photographer), Oskar Schlemmer (painter, sculptor, choreographer), plus painters Lyonel Feininger, Wassily Kandinsky, and Paul Klee. Several of the original buildings In 1996, the Bauhaus sites in Dessau und Weimar were have been reconstructed and are open to the public today. awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. This recog- nized the unique role of these buildings in the history THE TÖRTEN ESTATE of art, architecture, and design in the 20th century. Designed by Walter Gropius and built between 1926 and Opened in 1926, the most famous is the Bauhaus Buil- 1928, this innovative development is an early example ding, the glass and concrete school designed by Walter of municipal housing. Gropius wanted to encourage Gropius. self-sufficiency, so this estate of pre-fabricated, terraced houses has kitchen gardens, where residents could grow their own vegetables and raise chickens. THE MASTERS’ HOUSES Built in a peaceful pine wood, the Masters’ Houses KORNHAUS RESTAURANT included three semi-detached houses (for the Bauhaus Built in 1929-30, this restaurant and pub sits on the banks professors) and one detached house for the school’s of the Elbe River. Originally designed to have a balcony director. Gropius’ vision was that: “Today‘s luxuries are overlooking the river, the semicircular front was glassed tomorrow‘s norm.” He used industrially prefabricated, in. Despite renovations over the years, many original “building block” construction elements. On the façades features survive and the Kornhaus is a popular spot for facing away from the street were balconies and terraces. locals to meet. Inside, the hot water system was efficient; there were walk-in closets; and modern furniture included sofas that could be opened up to make a double bed. The tall, wide walls of glass must have shocked Kornhaus people at the time. Almost a century on, Restaurant these houses still look fresh and contemporary. 13

LAND OF INVENTION

Saxony-Anhalt is the land of invention. And, deep in the cultural treasure chest is the oldest-known graphic representation of the cosmos: The Nebra Sky Disc. Amazingly, 3,600 years ago, the people of Saxony- Anhalt could tell when the sun and the moon would rise, thanks to their ingenious astronomical clock.

They were not the only ones to look at the world around them and wonder: “How?” and “Why?” Back in 1654, Otto von Guericke (1602-1686) heralded the age of experi- mental physics with his research into vacuums. Samuel Hahnemann (1755-1843) is regarded as the Father of NEBRA SKY DISK Homeopathy. His house in Köthen is now a museum; and the town also is home to the European Homeopathic Unearthed in 1999, the Nebra Sky Disc dates from the Bronze Age. Library. Some 100 years ago, plant breeder Theodorus Either an astronomical instrument, a religious icon, or both, what makes this disc extra special is that it is portable – unlike more van Waveren laid the foundations of the seed industry. In famous stone circles, such as Stonehenge. And experts reckon the early 20th century, innovations included the first all- that the Nebra Sky Disc actually harmonizes the solar and lunar metal airplane, which was built in Dessau and the world’s calendars. first Technicolor film, produced by Agfa.

Saxony-Anhalt is still a major international player in the chemical and plastics industry, and in mechanical engi- neering. Every German-made car has at least one compo- OTTO VON GUERICKE (1602-1686) nent manufactured in the state. Drive shafts for racing cars and helmets for their drivers are also made here; and, more than 90 percent of all Aspirin tablets made for the European market come from Saxony-Anhalt. As for the world’s tallest building, that is Burj Khalifa in Dubai. But, it is only habitable thanks to water pumps that are made in – you guessed it – Saxony-Anhalt!

SOLAR VALLEY

Saxony-Anhalt is at the leading edge of technology. Nowhere else in the world features more companies that are involved in the pho - tovoltaic industry. Attracting inward investment of almost ten billion Euros in the past 20 years, the Solar Valley is one of the success stories of the renewable energy industry. 14 GERMAN-AMERICAN LINKS

The annual German-American Steuben Parades in New York, Chicago and in Philadelphia (September) celebrate more than the achievements of Baron von Steuben. They commemorate the role played by Germans in the whole history of the United States of America. 15 THE AMERICAN CONNECTION

WHAT’S IN A NAME? b German connections are every- where. Saxony-Anhalt towns with namesakes range from Wittenberg, Wisconsin to Freyburg and Dessau in Texas; Wit- tenberg University is in Ohio. And, there are twinned com- munities: Magdeburg is partnered with Nashville, Tennes- see; Halle (Saale) with Savannah, Georgia; Wittenberg with Springfield, Ohio; Schönebeck with Farmers Branch, Texas; and Bernburg (Saale) with Anderson, Indiana. And the term THE AMERICAN Pennsylvania Dutch recalls the German (Deutsch) settlers. CONNECTION – Saxony-Anhalters in the U.S.A.

Among the many men and women from Saxony- together German, Swedish and other Anhalt, who had a profound effect on US history were Lutheran congregations, he is acknow- Henry Melchior Muhlenberg, Baron von Steuben, and ledged as the founder of the Lutheran August Hermann Francke. Church in the United States.

HENRY MELCHIOR Muhlenberg (1711-1787) THE Muhlenberg When early German colonists in Pennsylvania needed DYNASTY HENRY MELCHIOR a pastor, Muhlenberg answered their call. In 1742, the Muhlenberg (1711-1787) 31-year-old set out for Philadelphia. Over the next five “Clergymen, soldiers, decades, he saw Colonial America grow, go to war and gain independence. As well as serving his own congre- scholars, statesmen, the gation, he traveled up and down the Eastern seaboard, acting as advisor to other churches. In 1748, he formed the Muhlenbergs have represented the first Lutheran synod in the Colonies. The liturgies that he developed are still used today in Lutheran services across best in our national life since the the country. Because of his vision and ability to pull earliest days of the Republic.”

That was how President Franklin D. Roosevelt summed up the achievements of this family from Saxony-Anhalt, back in 1942.

Muhlenberg and his wife had 11 children, including three sons, who returned to Halle (Saale) to study at university. They became ministers – and more. Peter served as a Major General in the Continental Army and was elected to the United States Senate. In 1789, Frederick became the first Speaker of the House and his signature is the first on the Bill of Rights. Henry became the first president of what is today Franklin & Marshall College in Pennsylvania. A notable botanist, he is called the “American Linnaeus” for his 1813 catalog of North American plants.

MUHLENBERG MEMORIAL

The Muhlenberg family name lives on at Muhlenberg College, Allentown, Pennsylvania as well as Muhlenberg County, Kentucky. 16

Elevated to the rank of Inspector General, von Steuben drew up the Blue Book, officially entitled Regulations for the Order and Discipline of the Troops of the United States. But, his ideas were not limited only to marching and fighting. For example, his rules governed the setting up of camps. In the interests of proper sanitation, kitchens and latrines were apart from each other, on opposite sides of the camp.

In 1781, the British were defeated at Yorktown. For the FRIEDRICH battle, von Steuben commanded one of Washington’s three divisions of troops. After the war, this Revolution­ VON STEUBEN ary hero became a citizen of the new nation and settled (1730-1794) in New York.

From a military perspective, no native of Saxony-Anhalt Across the United States, towns and counties are named has done more for the United States than Baron von for von Steuben. There are even annual parades in his Steuben. According to military historian General John M. honor! As part of German-American Friendship Week, the Palmer: Steuben Parade draws huge crowds in cities, such as New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago. “... the military services of two men, and two men only, can be regarded as indispensable to the achievement of American independence. These two men were Washington and Steuben.”

Biography of General von Steuben (1937)

During the American Revolution, military experience and know-how were vital to the Continental Army. Born in Magdeburg, Baron von Steuben had both. He also was skilled in administration, training, and organization.

From a military family, he started out as an infantry officer in the Prussian army. His ability was soon noticed, and he was promoted to serve on the headquarters staff of Frederick the Great. In 1777, Benjamin Franklin, then representing the Continental Congress in Paris, gave von Steuben a letter of introduction to General Washington.

The Baron joined the Continental Army at Valley Forge. Although he spoke no English, he managed to communi- cate with American officers in French. Aiming to create a disciplined fighting force, he brought uniformity and order to drills and maneuvers. With 120 carefully-chosen men, von Steuben created a “model company,” who then passed on their expertise to each brigade. The Prussian system was quickly learned. 17

August Francke‘s legacy is the Francke Foundation, in Halle (Saale), with its impressive antiquarian library.

THE AMERICAN AUGUST HERMANN CONNECTION FRANCKE GERMAN-AMERICAN DAYS b Across the United (1663–1727) States, from Pennsylvania to California and from the Midwest down to Texas, some 50 million Americans trace One of the most enlightened men of his age was their roots back to Germany. Among the early immigrants August Hermann Francke, a Lutheran Pietist in Halle were Saxony-Anhalters, drawn by the promise of religious (Saale). He believed in education and developed new and political freedom, as well as the opportunity to build teaching practices that were spread by his pupils businesses and to own land. Today’s German-American around the world. Today, his ideals are continued at parades celebrate that heritage. the Francke Foundation.

In 1698, Francke founded two schools; one for the poor, the other for orphans. In time, courses ranged from physics and chemistry to Latin, modern languages, botany, and anatomy. His approach to teaching was surprisingly modern. In addition to theory, students learned from KURT WEILL (1900-1950) real life, looking at objects, such as stuffed animals and models. They also learned practical skills in the garden Another “revolutionary” from Saxony-Anhalt is Kurt Weill, and the workshop. His pupils thrived and went on to whose Threepenny Opera, written in co-operation with Bertolt become Lutheran pastors, doctors, lawyers, and govern- Brecht in 1928, was a landmark in ment officials. musical theater. Weill and his wife, Lotte Lenya, emigrated to the United Francke had many links with the American Colonies. States in 1935, and became American William Penn asked him to organize German emigration citizens. He continued his lifelong to Pennsylvania; Cotton Mather in Boston corresponded work for social justice, while creating about the new form of education. And, it was Francke’s major hits for Broadway with the son, who asked Muhlenberg to go to Pennsylvania on best lyricists and playwrights of the behalf of the Francke Foundation. day, from Ira Gershwin and Maxwell Anderson to S.J. Perelman and Ogden All Lutheran pastors, who were sponsored to go to the Nash. In his hometown of Dessau, American colonies, were required to report back on what one of the Bauhaus Masters’ Houses they saw. Questions on itemized lists covered all aspects is now the Kurt Weill Center, with a of daily life. Today, these unique insights are in the im- permanent exhibition and library pressive library of the Francke Foundation (Franckesche devoted to the famous composer. Stiftungen) in Halle (Saale). 18

THE HALL OF MIRRORS

The music of Johann Sebastian Bach is loved around the world. Legend has it that his Brandenburg Concertos were first performed in the Hall of Mirrors in Köthen Castle, where the composer was Kapellmeister (Director of Music) to the Prince of Anhalt-Köthen from 1717 to 1723. This elegant salon is still a magi- cal place to attend a concert. 19 THE AMERICAN CONNECTION

THE HALBERSTADT ORGAN PROJECT b What is ORGAN2/ASLSP (As SLow aS Possible)? Created by John Cage, the late American composer, this work is the slowest and longest “concert” that the world has ever heard. It is due to last 639 years! It began in 2000 at the Church of St. Burchardi in Halberstadt. The first organ to have a “modern” keyboard was made in this city back in 1361 – exactly 639 years before the performance of Cage’s work began! A CULTURAL POWERHOUSE From art to music

Saxony-Anhalt’s treasure chest includes every other year). Among his most familiar works masterpieces of music and painting. is Cantata No. 80, Ein’ feste Burg ist unser Gott (A Among their creators are three cultural mighty fortress is our God), inspired by the words giants: the artist Lucas Cranach and of Martin Luther. The Great Reformer’s belief composers Johann Sebastian Bach and that music was an important part of worship has George Frederick Handel. continued through the centuries. With Bach, a committed Lutheran, it found some of its The name “Bach” dominated the music finest expression. scene in the Saxony-Anhalt region from 1600 to 1800. J. S. Bach may be the most famous, but 64 members of his family were professional musicians during that era.

Like his relatives, J. S. Bach was a talented organist and piano player. However, he is most remembered as a composer, creating more than 1,000 works, of which more than 220 survive today.

Among the best-known are the Brandenburg Concertos, created in Köthen, where Bach was Director of Music for the Prince of Anhalt- Köthen.

Today, the Bach House, one of two in which Bach lived while in Köthen, still stands. And, the city celebrates him with the annual International Bach Festival (early September,

JOHANN SEBASTIAN BACH (1685-1750) 20

GEORGE FREDERICK LUCAS CRANACH HANDEL THE ELDER (1685-1759) (1472-1553)

An international celebrity in his own lifetime, Handel Both a painter and printmaker, Lucas Cranach was one of created some of the world’s most popular pieces of clas- the foremost German artists of his time. And, it is thanks sical music. He lived and worked in major cities across to him that we know what Martin Luther looked like. Europe, from Germany and Italy to England. Cranach lived and worked in Wittenberg, and was a friend But, Handel was born in Halle (Saale). As a boy, his talent of Luther. Not only did he paint portraits of the Great was recognized and he was taught by Friedrich Wilhelm Reformer and his wife, Katharina von Bora, he was a Zachow, the organist at Halle’s Marktkirche church. Sadly, witness at their wedding and godfather to their first son, none of his countless early compositions in Halle (Saale) Johannes Luther. survive. However, his music does. Halle’s tradition of “Händel-Festspiele” (Handel Festivals) or “Händel-Tage” An enthusiastic supporter of the Protestant Reformation, (Handel Days) goes back to 1922, when new productions Cranach was dubbed the “Reformation Painter.” He of his operas were the backbone of the festival program conveyed Lutheran ideas through art, emphasizing man’s – as they still are. Of the 42 operas, almost all have been individuality and the importance of faith as the way to performed during the festival. Venues include the cathe- salvation. He positioned ordinary people in everyday dral, the Marktkirche, the Handel House, and the Goethe- settings, often close to Christ. Saints and noblemen were Theater, in nearby Bad Lauchstädt. moved to the background

Also in Halle (Saale) is the well-restored Handel House. In Wittenberg, Cranach had numerous businesses. As well Designed to be a cultural center as well as a memorial as his studio and print workshop, he had an art school to the composer, this museum is devoted to music. The and a pharmacy – and he even served as Mayor. Today, regular Saturday evening concerts have been a fixture the Cranach House and courtyard tell the story. for 60 years. Some of the programs are purely Handel; others are themed; many feature works by Handel‘s con- temporaries. 21

GEORG PHILIPP TELEMANN (1681-1767) Who was the most prolific composer of all time? Accord- ing to the Guinness Book of World Records, the title goes to Georg Telemann, with over 800 works to his credit. One of his most famous is the Viola Concerto in G Major. The first to be created specifically for that instrument, it was composed between 1716 and 1721 – and is still performed today. MUSIC Born in Magdeburg, Telemann was the son of a pastor at the Heilig-Geist Church. His genius manifested itself IS IN THE BLOOD early on and he wrote an opera at the age of twelve. His mother worried that he would turn into a “juggler, rope dancer, minstrel, marmot trainer, etc.” Although she In Saxony-Anhalt, music is part of everyday life. And tried to make him follow a more respectable profession, there is a reason for that. One of Luther’s passions was Telemann followed his muse. worship through music: In fact, he became known for his works for Protestant “The riches of music are so excellent church services. Any and every occasion inspired him: Sundays and feast days, the installation of a priest, and so precious that words fail me and the consecration of a new church. The Magdeburg Telemann Festival has been held biennially in the city whenever I attempt to discuss and since 1990, usually around the composer’s birthday: March 14. describe them ... next to the Word of

God, the noble art of music is the HEINRICH SCHÜTZ (1585-1672) greatest treasure in the world.” The outstanding German composer of the early-Baroque period was Heinrich Schütz. Born a century before After the Protestant Reformation, congregations were J. S. Bach, he wrote the first German opera and was nick- encouraged to sing hymns, but songs were not limited named the “Father of German Music.” to church services. Communal singing became popular; villages and workplaces had their own choirs. No wonder The best place to learn about the man is at the Heinrich- this small region has produced and inspired so many Schütz-House in Weissenfels, the town where he grew up great musicians. and where he returned to live in his old age. The exhibition covers his family, social, and cultural roots, as well as the Today, that tradition is alive and well in Saxony-Anhalt. late works he created here. Appropriately, Weissenfels From Handel’s Messiah to musicals, jazz and rock, there is hosts an annual festival of his compositions, held on or music everywhere and standards are impressively high. near his birthday: October 8.

The Kinderchor (Childrens Choir) in Halle (Saale), is one of the best known in Germany 22

QUEDLINBURG

With more than 1,300 half-timbered houses, Quedlinburg is one of Europe’s most romantic cities. Strolling along the cobbled streets is like walking through the history of half- timbered (post-and-beam) construction. Quedlinburg’s Old Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994. It is considered to be an exceptional example of a medieval town, but is not a museum – people live, work and play in this beau- tiful setting. 23 THE AMERICAN CONNECTION

POST AND BEAM b German immigrants took their wood-working skills with them to America, where wood was profuse. They raised barns, houses, churches and meeting halls in the New World, using this “post and beam” construction. The tradition continues, especially in Pennsylvania, where the Amish community still uses this method for barns and houses. SAXONY-

ANHALT’s But, this architecture is not limited to country cottages. In towns and cities, timber-framed buildings can be five and six storys high. Upper floors may be larger than the half-timbered ground floor, with each level extending beyond the one below. At the top, steep roofs and gables allow snow and architecture rain to run off easily. Half-timbering was tried and tested long ago; many of these buildings have stood firm for 500 years or more. Ironically, this simple construction technique originally housed the less well-off. Today, the Building with wood is a centuries-old tradition in more affluent vie to live in these attractive and historic Saxony-Anhalt. Across the state, this special type of buildings. architecture is yet another gem in the state’s cultural treasure chest. To help visitors enjoy these beautiful buildings, there is a special route, the German Timber- Frame Road (Deutsche Fachwerkstrasse) that links WERNIGERODE cities and towns, which have an abundance of this In the Altstadt (Old picturesque style. Add a dusting of snow for the annual Town), the market Christmas markets, and it all looks like a Christmas square is overlooked by card come to life. half-timbered buildings, including the amazingly The German word Fachwerk means framework. One of ornate Town Hall, which the world’s oldest systems of construction, it is – quite dates back to around simply – a skeleton formed by large timbers. This is the 1500. There are side streets for shopping, main load-bearing structure. To create the walls, the gaps such as the pedestrian- are filled in with plaster, wooden planks, a mix of mud only Breite Strasse and and straw, or bricks. Kochstrasse, with the smallest house in town – its ground floor is just one room!

QUEDLINBURG

Nowhere else in Germany has more half-timbered buildings than Quedlinburg. Some are black-and- white, others have color, perhaps ochre, blue or yellow. This is the perfect place to explore, strolling down ancient lanes to discover delightful squares. And, the place to learn more about this architecture is the Fachwerk- museum im Ständerbau. Approp- riately, it is in Germany’s second- oldest half-timbered house! Taken all together, it is no wonder that the town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994. More recently, it was highlighted in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, the best-selling travel guide. 24 25

SOMEWHERE SPECIAL: OSTERWIECK

A popular stop on the German Timber-Frame Road (Deutsche Fachwerkstrasse), Osterwieck has 400 half-timbered houses lining cobbled lanes. Built after a fire destroyed the town in 1511, the Altstadt (Old Town) has an attractive homogeneous look, as all the houses are the same age and style. After the Reformation, many inhabitants proclaimed their Protestant faith by carving or painting Biblical quotes onto the beams of their homes. These are still clearly visible today. 26

SAALE-UNSTRUT VINEYARDS

Among Europe’s most northerly vineyards, the Saale-Unstrut wine region has been cultivated since 998AD. Growing on hillsides overlooking the Saale and Unstrut Rivers, 75 percent of the grape varieties are white, mostly Müller-Thurgau and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). These wines tend to be light, dry and refreshing. 27 THE AMERICAN CONNECTION

SOMETHING SPECIAL b Many favorite German foods are also American favorites. In Saxony-Anhalt, for example, Kaffee und Kuchen – or “coffee and cake” – has been part of everyday life since coffee was introduced 400 years ago. Every family has its own version of specialities, and the recipes are handed down through the generations. One such specialty is Streuselkuchen, familiar across the USA as – crumb cake!

WINE CHEERS! Saxony-Anhalters enjoy sharing the good things in life with friends and visitors. Hasseröder, one of Germany‘s best-selling beers, has AND FOOD been brewed in Wernigerode since 1872. But wines are also produced in the Saale-Unstrut region. With its red foil top, the most famous is the Champagne-style Rotkäppchen (it means Little Red Riding Hood), founded in Freyburg in 1856. Today, this is one of Germany‘s biggest In Saxony-Anhalt, food and drink are very much in- selling sparkling wines, or „Sekts“. And, at the end of a meal, locals tertwined with culture. will often offer guests Schierker Feuerstein, a herbal liqueur from . Open up the treasure chest and, like a big hamper, all the ingredients are there for a delicious meal, along with a glass of wine or a refreshing beer. Long known for its rich soil, Saxony-Anhalt has a tradition of farming that pro- duces everything from mouth-watering fresh asparagus in May to fine beef from highland cattle, plus goose and game in the fall. Dishes special to the region range from pork with plums to chicken stuffed with beets and from roasted Bratwurst (sausages) to Dessauer Speck- kuchen, a bacon quiche from Dessau. Around the Saale- Unstrut vineyards, wine festivals celebrate the grape harvest in August and September.

HALLOREN CHOCOLATES

From Halle (Saale), Hallo- ren is the oldest choco - late maker in Germany. Now well over 200 years old, it is best known HARZ CHEESE for its Halloren Kugel, a chocolate ball that comes Made from traditional recipes, in a variety of flavors: Harz cheese is naturally low-fat strawberry, cherry, black- but high in protein, making it as currant, and more… healthy as it is delicious. Golden yellow and pungent, this cheese can be plain, or flavored with ca - BAUMKUCHEN raway. Many farmers still make it by hand; this artisan version A favorite in Saxony-Anhalt is labeled Bauernhandkäse or in general and in Salzwedel Handkäse. in particular, Baumkuchen is cooked over an open wood fire. Literally a “tree cake,” it is made the old-fashioned way by pouring layer upon layer of batter onto a vertical spit fire – creating a delicious “tree- shaped” treat. 28

Handmade Design

In Halle (Saale), one of the best places to appreciate the results of this artistic output is Kleine Ulrich­ strasse, a street lined with small galleries, plus arts and crafts shops. Find one-of-a-kind graphic arts and pottery, fashion and jewelry, even handmade children’s toys made of wood and tin. It all typifies the city’s youthful buzz. 29

CONTEMPORARY CREATIVITY

Saxony-Anhalt may have a thousand years of history, formed by Kirsten Hoppert and Steffen Kroll. Their focus but this small state does not rest on its laurels. The is product design and development, and also interior and top layer of the treasure chest sparkles with contemp- strategic design. Then, there is Aromicon, a virtual wine orary creativity. Since re-unification two decades ago, tasting search engine created by designer Daniel Acker- Saxony-Anhalt’s productivity has outperformed all mann and engineer Alf Jahn. They turn flavors and tastes the other regions of the former . into images, some with 3D animation. So, clients can “taste” wines for free on the internet, before buying!

According to Axel Müller-Schöll, Rector of the Burg About 10 percent of the university’s students come from Giebichenstein University of Art and Design in Halle abroad; 40 percent are from former West Germany; and (Saale), there is a reason for that: “The region is centrally 50 percent from the former East Germany. “As well as located, with an excellent infrastructure of air, road, and teaching we also encourage entrepreneurship. Our rail. But, it is the people that make the difference. There Designhaus Halle encourages start-up businesses. We is a creativity about the Saxony-Anhalter.” help talented graduates to stay here and develop their ideas and products. The attraction is that overheads The second largest university of its kind in Germany, are lower, but the workforce is educated and talented. Burg Giebichenstein University was founded a century Saxony-Anhalt benefits.” ago, at about the same time as the Bauhaus. The school has always moved with the times, and since 1958, has fea- tured departments devoted to industrial design, interior An example of design, and environmental design – alongside the fine Saxony-Anhalt creativity; and applied arts. a prototype chair from “Twenty or thirty years ago, design was all about ma- Halle (Saale) king good products look beautiful. Today, it does more; it provides a way to communicate between people and brands. Designers lead from the front.” Alumni, who have gone on to create companies with a national profile include Formgold. They specialize in interior lighting, which is ever more important in large buildings, such as offices and schools. Another is Vertijet, a design studio

Tokio Hotel

It is not just classical music that courses through the veins of every Saxony-Anhalter. In 2001, identical twins Bill Kaulitz (vocals) and Tom Kaulitz (guitar) met Gustav Schäfer (drummer) and Georg Listing (bass guitarist) in a club in Magdeburg. The rock band Tokio Hotel was formed – and went on to wow fans around the world. In September 2008, they were named “Best New Artist” at the American MTV Video Music Awards. In 2012, they won MTV‘s Musical March Madness championship game. 30

EUROPA-ROSARIUM IN SANGERHAUSEN

Founded in 1903, the Europa-Rosarium in Sangerhausen houses the largest collection of roses in Europe, if not the world. In summer, the 32-acre (13-hectare) Rose Park is a showcase for more than 75,000 shrubs and 8,300 cultivars. The roses are divided into 40 different categories. The wild rose collection, for example, features some 500 varieties. 31

THE GREEN STATE

If Saxony-Anhalt were a color, that color would be green, thanks to its long horticultural traditions. This is a state that is full of enthusiastic “green thumbs”! Indeed, there are 43 historic gardens and parks in the state-wide Garden Dreams network. Seven of these parks and palace gardens make up the Garden King- dom, a UNESCO World Heritage site. There is also the Harz National Park, a wild mountain reserve shared with neighboring state of Niedersachsen.

Reflecting this respect for the environment is Saxony- Anhalt’s focus on green technology and renewable ener- gy. In 2011, the world’s most powerful wind energy facili- ty began operation in Magdeburg. The tower stands 443 feet (135 meters) high, while the diameter of the blades is 417 feet (127 meters). What is more, Saxony-Anhalt boasts Palace and Garden of Mosigkau the world‘s fastest-growing cluster of solar cell companies. Garden Kingdom of Dessau-WörlItz This conversion to green energy has had a dramatic and positive effect on the environment. Between 1990 and 2004, energy-induced carbon dioxide emissions were HARZ NATIONAL PARK more than halved in Saxony-Anhalt. Saxony-Anhalt shares the Harz National Park with neighboring THE GARDEN KINGDOM OF DESSAU-WÖRLITZ Niedersachsen. In all, the park In 2000, the Garden Kingdom of Dessau-Wörlitz was de- encloses 35 square miles (8,900 clared a UNESCO World Heritage site. This is not just one hectares), and is virtually unin- garden or one palace; think of it as half-a-dozen country habited by man. However, the estates, each with its own elegant rural retreat. Together, forests of beech and spruce are they cover some 55 square miles (14,250 hectares). This home to red deer, roe deer, wild boar, and the European lynx, is more than twice the size of Manhattan, so it really is a classified as endangered and kingdom! recently reintroduced.

One of the highlights is Schloss Wörlitz, a late-18th century gem. It was created by Prince Leopold III (aka Prince Franz) of Anhalt-Dessau. During a visit to England, he was so impressed by the country houses, with their natural-looking parks, that he created his own version in Germany. He transformed his estate, building a delight- ful palace and revamping the Baroque garden into a less formal style. Today, they provide a glimpse into the world of two centuries ago, complete with furniture, sculptures, paintings, and Wedgwood porcelain. 32 33

DESSAU-WÖRLITZ GARDEN KINGDOM

Between the Elbe and Mulde Rivers, the Dessau-Wörlitz Garden Kingdom is a spectacular combination of historical gardens, buildings, follies, and sculptures. Most unusual is an imitation Vesuvius set on a small island: An artificial but still functioning volcano! One of the most pleasant ways to explore is by boat or gondola. Many of the waterways are crossed by little bridges, which add to the charm. Since 2000, the Garden Kingdom of Dessau-Wörlitz has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of four in Saxony-Anhalt. 34 ANNUAL

FESTIVALS AND Luther’s Wedding festival, Lutherstadt Wittenberg Early June EVENTS Locals dress in medieval costume to celebrate the wedding vows of Martin Luther and Katharina von Bora. Lasting for three days, it is one of the most spectacular festivals in Germany. Kurt Weill Festival, Dessau MDR Summer Music Festival, Late February/early March various cities Each year brings a different theme, and a new line-up of June – September top artists, to the festival honoring local hero Kurt Weill. A regional festival spread over three neighboring states, this special concert series covers genres ranging from classical to world music. Some performances are on authentic period instruments.

International Reformation Music Festival, Lutherstadt Wittenberg Early July This festival commemorates the important role played by music in the time of the Reformation. Performers include well-known artists from around the world and from different religious backgrounds.

Wittenberg Renaissance Music Festival, Lutherstadt Wittenberg Late October A curtain raiser to the annual Reformation celebrations, this festival focuses on Renaissance music and period instruments. “Händels open” in Halle (Saale) CHRISTMAS/ADVENT MARKETS Late November to Christmas During Advent, cities and towns across Saxony-Anhalt dress in festive finery. Against a backdrop of half-timbered Handel Festival, houses, the Yuletide spirit reigns in Christmas markets, Halle (Saale) where stalls sell traditional crafts and decorations. Late May/early June Most of the concerts take place in venues with a Handel 2019 The Bauhaus connection, such as the cathedral, the Marktkirche, and The most famous art and design movement of modern the Handel House. times celebrates its centenary.

THE LUTHER DECADE 2014 REFORMATION AND POLITICS A time to examine issues of the Reformation that remain In the ten years leading up to 2017, the 500th with us today: authority and personal responsibility, faith anniversary of the start of the Protestant and power, freedom of conscience and human rights. Reformation, each year has a special theme. 2015 REFORMATION: VISUAL ARTS AND THE BIBLE On the 500th anniversary of the birth of Lucas Cranach the Younger, experts consider Luther’s influence on art in the Reformation period. 2012 REFORMATION AND MUSIC 2016 REFORMATION AND THE ONE WORLD Both in church and in the home, the Reformation introdu- The Reformation spread from Wittenberg to the rest ced new attitudes to music in Europe, influencing compo- of the world, especially to the U.S.A. This year focuses on sers such as Bach, Handel and Liszt. the global influence of Protestantism. 2013 REFORMATION AND TOLERANCE 2017 ANNIVERSARY OF THE REFORMATION Emphasising the importance of an ecumenical community In its 500th anniversary year, the Reformation is celeb- without national or confessional borders, this year addres- rated worldwide, with ecclesiastical and cultural events, ses the intolerant facets of the Reformation. major conferences and important exhibitions. 35 UTA OF NAUMBURG

Germany’s answer to the Mona Lisa is Uta of Naum- burg. Her statue in Naum- burg Cathedral is one of 12 that were carved in the 13th century by an anonymous stonemason, dubbed the Naumburg Master. Legend has it that Uta was the insp­iration for the evil queen in Walt Disney’s 1937 film, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. 36 Europe

Saxony-Anhalt

300 Miles

Germany 600 Miles Saxony-Anhalt 1.200 Miles

Stendal

Berlin hanover

Magdeburg

Halberstadt Dessau-Rosslau

Lutherstadt Wittenberg

Wernigerode Quedlinburg Köthen Lutherstadt Eisleben

Halle (Saale) leipzig

Naumburg

LEGAL NOTICE /// PUBLISHED BY: Kultusministerium des Landes Sachsen-Anhalt /// PROJECT MANAGEMENT: Investitions- und Marketinggesellschaft Sachsen-Anhalt mbH, TourComm Germany GmbH & Co. KG /// PHOTOGRAPHS: Matthias Ritzmann; Stiftung Luther-gedenkstätte in Sachsen-Anhalt; Landesamt für Denkmalpflege und Archäologie Sachsen-Anhalt, Reinhard Ulbrich; Louis Held († 1927); Robert K. Radske; Muhlenberg Memorial – Lutheran Theological Seminary, Philadelphia; Ingo Gottlieb, Franckesche Stiftungen; Walter Benjamin († 1940); Christian Ratzel, Köthen Kultur und Marketing GmbH; Stadtgeschichtliches Museum Leipzig; Gemäldegalerie der Akademie der bildenden Künste; Kinderchor Halle (Saale); Halloren Schokoladenfabrik AG; adpic; Rotkäppchen-Mumm Sektkellereien / Korenke PR; Library of Congress, Washington; Schmuckklasse zur Jahresausstellung der Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design, Pressetelle Burg Giebichenstein Kunst- hochschule Halle / Nikolaus Brade; Designhaus Halle; Yuca easy chair, Studio vertijet; KsDW, Bildarchiv, Heinz Fräßdorf /// layout: www.genese.de /// PRINT: Koch-Druck, Halberstadt, Germany /// COPY DEADLINE: 7/5/12 No part of publications may be copied or used for the purposes of commercial sale to third parties, in particular the sale of addresses. 37

traditional Christmas market

Nothing conjures up the spirit of the Festive Season more than Saxony-Anhalt’s traditional Christmas markets. In many towns, you are walking in the footsteps of Martin Luther: choirs sing carols that Luther wrote; cooking on the grill are sausages that Luther loved; Baumkuchen (cake) is made over an open flame. Half-timbered house in Quedlinburg