sign in sign up
<<
Home , Classification of wine, Liqueur Muscat

A Guide to selecting the you really want to drink

Created by Roger C. Bohmrich Master of Wine and

$9.95 Style Wine W ine and Style A G u i d e

2n d E d i t i on

W hen Style is Substance: Selecting the Wine You Really Want to Drink

In this guide...

Criteria for Wine and Style Classification 1 Sparkling 2 White Wines, Light to Medium Bodied 4 Wines 8 White Wines, Full Bodied 10 Red Wines, Light to Medium Bodied 14 Red Wines, Medium Weight 18 Red Wines, Concentrated Full Bodied 22 Sweet Dessert Wines 28 Fortified Sweet Wines 30 Created by Roger C. Bohmrich, Master of Wine 34 Roger C. Bohmrich, Master of Wine Criteria for Wine and Style Classification

m concentration, or the “extract” determining taste intensity

m weight, the degree of fullness in the mouth, partly due to alcohol

m acidity, a critical component for food pairing

I n t h i s gu i d e , w i n e s ar e c l assi fi e d b y t h e i r st y l e , m tannin, if any, an astringent taste (bitter to some people) in red wines that balances fatty foods placing them in modules which share key taste m sweetness, if any, remaining from the grapes attributes. This new concept departs from the m wood influences, if any, ranging from barely standard approach of presenting wines by country, noticeable to marked (woody, coconut, vanilla, region or grape variety. Instead, wines are categorized clove, cinnamon, etc.) by fundamental characteristics that truly matter, at the The by style allows you table with food. Grape type is an important but to select a wine – even one you have never tasted – simply by choosing a Style Module not exclusive element of the formula. and then refining your selection by consulting the Stylistic Comments. This innovative framework also makes it simple to match wine and food.

Consult the GUIDE to find wine styles you will personally enjoy with different food preparations.

1 • Low pressure (<2.5 atmospheres) – Spark ling Wines delicate bubbles that fade quickly • Moderate pressure (3.5-4 atmospheres) – Light to Medium Bodied, bubbles that leave a “creamy” texture Dry (brut) • Full pressure (5-6 atmospheres) – bubbles that can be tiny and delicate or large and aggressive Sparkling wines are not just for New Year’s, depending on the type of weddings and other celebrations hey are the , ! T “Brut” is a widely used term for a sparkling wine that tastes ideal aperitif and can be marvelous partners to completely dry. Brut is limited to 1.5 percent residual many foods othing brings out a smile as much . N sugar, achieved by adding a dosage (sugar syrup). Champagne as the sound of a hampagne popping C ! labeled Extra Brut and Zero Dosage contain little or no dosage, art of the taste impression comes from the P respectively. Extra Dry signifies Champagne that is off-dry so here is a simple guide to the , (slightly sweet) and contains at most 2 percent residual sugar. pressure of sparkling wines: The wines in this chart are listed in ascending order, from light and delicate to complex and more mature (longer aging before release).

Spark ling W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Prosecco frizzante Veneto – Very delicate, soft, neutral (low pressure) Prosecco spumante Ripe fruits, round, finer bubbles (full pressure)

Crémant (most are Alsace, , Burgundy, etc. Clean, soft moderate pressure) – France Best: more flavor interest (grapes depend on region)

Cava (Xarel-lo, , Penedes – Spain From fine, subtle & very dry to fruity, round, coarse ) Traditional (Champagne) Lombardy – Italy Vary from one-dimensional to Champagne-like in their method (usually , California, , character; usually Brut, occasionally soft (Extra Dry) ; sometimes with New Mexico – USA Best: precision, finesse & balance , ) Marlborough – New Zealand Yarra Valley (Victoria), Tasmania – Australia

Champagne Brut Champagne – France Widely varying styles from light, creamy to full,

non- (Pinot Noir, powerful, toasty Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier- blend varies by maker) Champagne Brut Blanc de Champagne – France Light, fine, focused, very dry Blancs (Chardonnay) Best: sublime, ethereal Champagne Brut Vintage & Champagne – France Can be multidimensional, concentrated, very dry; Luxury Cuvées (Pinot Noir, toasty, nutty with age Chardonnay) 2 3 This category includes two groups: Whi te Wi nes • Fragrant or scented white wines described as Light to Medium Bodied “aromatic” that are made from grapes yielding pronounced, sometimes perfumed aromas Usually no influence, • Non-aromatic white wines that do have varying dry or off-dry degrees of aroma, but are not as fragrant as the others

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments Fragrant or perfumed May be more or less aromatic, white wines dry or off-dry

Albariño/Alvarinho Rías Baixas – Spain Delicately aromatic, yellow peach, dry but not sharp Costa Verde – Portugal Best: nuanced, enticing blanc, Bordeaux – France Can have pronounced, grape-skin aromatics; fresh, dry Entre-Deux-Mers, (principally , sometimes with Sémillon) Moschofilero Peloponnese – Greece Flowery, assertively dry, refreshing & distinctive (Best: Mantinia) Various countries Expression varies; perfumed, light/medium, moderate alcohol; off-dry QbA, Kabinett, , Rhine, Nahe Aromatic; off-dry, “half-dry”(halbtrocken), dry (trocken); Spätlese – Germany high/very high acidity; Best: ethereal, complex, racy Riesling – USA Aromatic, fruity; usually dry/off-dry in Germanic style; Finger Lakes – USA marked or moderate acidity Marlborough, other regions Best: complex, balanced – New Zealand

Riesling Alsace – France Alsace: spiced apple; fuller; dry/off-dry; Best: complex, (best: grand ) long-lived, vary by site. Austria: focused, fresh, firm acidity Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal Best: highly complex, fuller, long-lived – Austria

Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire – France Herbal-lime peel, moderately full; dry Quincy (Sauvignon Blanc) Best: complex; a few are oaked Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca, Limarí – Chile Piquant citrus or grassy; light, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc Veneto, Friuli – Italy More or less aromatic, sometimes pungent; dry Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape, Stellenbosch More intense, nuanced, marked acidity; – South Africa closer to Loire in style Torrontes Cafayate (Salta), Mendoza Highly aromatic (Muscat-like), can be rich, ripe; – Argentina usually finish dry 4 Sardinia, Tuscany – Italy Slightly aromatic; dry; Best: engaging, refreshing 5 W hi te W i nes Light to Medium Bodied continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments Non-aromatic Range from neutral, light white wines to fuller, more flavorful

Assyrtiko Santorini, other regions Reserved aroma, can be concentrated; marked acidity; – Greece a few are oaked Chablis, Petit Chablis Chablis (Burgundy) Cool, subtle, dry, medium weight (Chardonnay) – France Best: fuller, well balanced, lasting

Gavi () Piedmont – Italy Understated, dry yet round; mature quickly Best: substance, charm

Grüner Veltliner Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal Focused, faintly peppery, firm acidity – Austria Best: concentrated, complex, long-lived

Mâcon-Villages, Lugny, Mâconnais (Burgundy) Ripe yellow fruits, round, soft; a few barrel-influenced; Viré-Clessé, etc. – France Viré-Clessé is richer, more honeyed (Chardonnay)

Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Loire – France Light, relatively neutral; Best: sur lie (bottled unfiltered (Melon) directly from lees or natural deposits); drink young

Orvieto (Procanico, Umbria - Italy Light, subtly nuanced, dry but not sharp; drink young Verdello, others)

Pinot Blanc Alsace – France Round, creamy, softly dry; easily liked by many palates Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco Veneto, Alto Adige, Pleasantly soft, neutral Friuli – Italy Best: fleshier, fuller; drink young Pinot Grigio/ California, Oregon – USA Overtly fruity, fresh, expressive; drink young Rueda () Rueda (Duero Valley) – Spain Herbal-citrus aromatics, refreshingly dry (great values) () Veneto – Italy Soft, can be neutral; mature quickly Best: ripe, round, slightly honeyed

Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tuscany – Italy Nutty, dried yellow fruits; dry , Anjou blanc, Loire – France Varying degrees of richness; can be off-dry Savennières () Best: honey, quince, spice

6 7 Dry rosés are the single most overlooked category of wine, R osé Wi nes largely because they do not have a sophisticated image. Dry (no sweetness), Many people do not realize what they are missing! There are wonderful, flavorful rosés around the world, and the Light to Medium Bodied ones listed are highly reliable examples. Champagne Rosé is included here because it belongs in this group for food pairing purposes, as do other brut rosé sparklers.

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Agiorghitiko Peloponnese – Greece Pomegranate aroma, focused, assertively dry Bandol Bandol () – France Wild red fruits, nuanced, very firm (Mourvèdre) Best: have character, flavor intensity Champagne Brut Rosé Champagne – France Vary widely in color hue & density; faint to more (varies by maker, color pronounced red berries; dry usually obtained by adding Best: delicate fruit, charm, finesse Pinot Noir ) Navarra (Garnacha) Navarra – Spain Red cherry fruit, medium weight, dry Best: charm & appeal (great values) Provence Provence – France Subtle red fruit; medium weight, soft (, , others) Best: more intensity, dimension Tavel, Lirac Rhône – France Red cherry-red currant; medium body, softly dry (Grenache, Cinsaut) Best: complete, balanced Similar: Costières de Nîmes

8 9 Heavier in weight, fuller and richer in taste, and often Whi te Wi nes containing higher alcohol (13 percent or more), these white Full Bodied wines deserve their own category for food pairing rather than being lumped in with “light to medium bodied” sparkling, Dry, many with white, and rosé wines. Some examples can be noticeably oaky, Oak Influence and some are distinctly aromatic. Certain grape varieties appear in multiple categories as dictated by style.

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments Aromatic, scented Categorized here for their richness, power white wines

Condrieu () Northern Rhône – France Perfumed, full, fat, lower acidity; can be “short” on palate Viognier California – USA Best: barrel-fermented, multidimensional, seductive Gewurztraminer Alsace – France Exotic, spicy, lychee-rose aroma; fat, low acidity Best: complex, balanced richness Riesling Eden, Clare – Australia Intense, sometimes pungent, oily-lime aroma; medium/full; higher alcohol, very high acidity; Best: complex, long-lived Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, other regions Strongly scented, sometimes pungent; grapefruit, – New Zealand herbaceous; elevated alcohol & acidity Best: more restrained, complex Leyda – Chile Rich fruit, bracing acidity; rising star

Less aromatic or May still possess impressive aromas non-aromatic white wines due to sheer concentration

Chablis Grand Cru Chablis (Burgundy) – France Full yet non-expressive when young; may have subtle oak; (Chardonnay) honey-mushroom with age Chardonnay Mendocino, Sonoma Coast, Ripe, intense fruit; degrees of bright acidity; Russian River (California) new oak overlay – USA Best: complex, well integrated Chardonnay Santa Barbara, Monterey, Ripe, tropical fruit aromas; creamy, oaky Edna Valley (California) Best: rich fruit balanced by acidity – USA Chardonnay Sonoma, Napa (California) Ripe, dense, full; new oak prominent; can taste “hot” – USA (alcoholic); Best: powerful, rich Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte d’Or (Burgundy) Complex, concentrated, generally firm, dry Puligny-Montrachet – France Best: premiers crus – multidimensional, can be cellared (Chardonnay) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Southern Rhône – France Ripe, fragrant, full bodied, low acidity, higher alcohol (white) (blend varies: Best: profound, balanced mainly with Bourboulenc, others) 10 11 W hi te W i nes Full Bodied continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments Less aromatic or May still possess impressive aromas non-aromatic white wines due to sheer concentration

Corton-Charlemagne, Côte d’Or (Burgundy) Vary by maker, site; rich, multidimensional, powerful & Bâtard-Montrachet, – France can benefit from bottle aging Chevalier-Montrachet, other grands crus (Chardonnay)

Greco di Tufa, Falanghina Campania – Italy Range from ripe, subtle to richer, peach-inflected; round Hermitage (white) Northern Rhône – France Broad, large-scaled, very powerful; moderate acidity; (mainly , elevated alcohol; barrel fermented a few with ) Best: long-lived

Pessac-Léognan Graves (Bordeaux) – France Yellow fruits, subtly herbal & oily; dry; new oak influence (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Best: complex, full bodied blend in varying proportions)

Pinot Gris Alsace – France Rich, round, banana-smoke aroma; moderate acidity (formerly Tokay Pinot Gris) Best: rich, unctuous; can be off-dry Pouilly-Fuissé Mâconnais Ripe, fleshy, generous; firm or soft. Meursault (Chardonnay) Côte d’Or (Burgundy) Varying from nutty, dry to rich, buttery – France Best: premiers crus.

Fortified dry Uniquely intense & assertive white wines

Manzanilla (15% alcohol) Sanlúcar de Barrameda, : pale; flowery-blanched almond (if fresh); Fino (15% alcohol) Jerez, Puerto de Santa María refreshing acidity () – Spain Fino: dark yellow gold; nutty-sharp (volatile) bouquets; Serve chilled in small white more weight; dry

12 13 These reds encompass light and medium weight examples R ed Wines that are uncomplicated, easy to drink and often good Light to Medium Bodied values. Some are not matured in oak at all, and others may have subtle wood enhancement (although rarely Enjoyable Young, some with new oak). They are particularly flexible with food, Oak Influence closer to light, medium bodied white wines than full-bodied reds. Certain grape varieties appear in multiple categories as dictated by style.

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Barbera d’Asti Asti (Piedmont) – Italy Light color & body; focused; fresh, dry frame; Best: elegant Bardolino Veneto – Italy Light, simple; drink young (, Molinara, others) , Beaujolais- Beaujolais – France Pale, fruity, light, soft; drink young Villages ()

Beaujolais crus : 10 Beaujolais – France Brouilly, Regnié, Fleurie, St. Amour: fragrant, fine, delicate including Morgon, Juliénas, Moulin à Vent: more depth, Brouilly, Fleurie, substance, longevity Morgon, etc (Gamay)

Bordeaux (red, basic) Bordeaux – France Cool, supple, balanced (mainly with Best: more depth, substance Cabernets)

Bourgogne (red) Burgundy – France Aromatic, red berries, fresh, dry (Pinot Noir) Best: nuanced, more substance

Carmenere Various regions – Chile Ripe, balanced by touch of firmness; Best: more substance (basic) Tuscany – Italy Red cherries, lighter weight, dry ( mainly, others)

Côtes du Rhône Southern Rhône – France Soft, warm, round (mainly Grenache, others)

Dolcetto Dogliani, Alba (Piedmont) Fresh, black fruits & licorice; dry – Italy Best: more concentration, dimension, longevity

Grenache Southeastern Australia Ripe red fruits, soft Garnacha Calatayud, others – Spain Similar, firmer, more depth if old vines (can be great value) Merlot (basic, generally California – USA Degrees of soft, ripe red fruits; simple & accessible; below $12 per bottle) Southeastern Australia Californian & Australian examples can be oak flavored, d’Oc – France have slight sweetness IGT – Italy Maule, others – Chile

14 15 R ed W i nes Light to Medium Bodied continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Primitivo Puglia – Italy Both variable: ripe, fresher or spicy dark fruits, prune; Salice Salentino woody, warm, soft (, others)

Rioja joven (no oak aging) – Spain Ripe red fruits, fresh, simple; drink young (, Garnacha)

Syrah/Shiraz (basic, Vin de Pays d’Oc – France Ripe dark red fruits, soft. generally below $10 Southeastern Australia Ripe, fleshy, vanilla & coconut (oaky); per bottle) can have slight sweetness.

16 17 R ed Wines These reds are of medium body or weight and have been matured for varying periods in oak barrels. Some of the Medium Weight barrels may be new, imparting more evident woody flavors like spices (clove, cinnamon), vanilla or smoky notes to With Degrees of Oak Aging the wine. Certain grape varieties and denominations appear in multiple categories as dictated by style.

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Bandol (mainly Mourvèdre) Provence – France Firm to ripe, wild black fruits; inky-herbal; may need aging to soften

Barbera d’Alba Piedmont – Italy Dark red fruits, firm & dry; best: fuller, more powerful, some with new oak

Bourgueil, Chinon Touraine (Loire) – France Dark red fruits, restrained, sometimes “earthy” () Best: pure, fleshier , Merlot Sonoma, others (California) Ripe red fruits, fleshy, warm, softer finish. & blends (Premium, usually – USA less than $20) Maipo – Chile May have tarry-herbal notes. Chianti Classico (all or Tuscany – Italy Chianti Classico: ripe or sour cherry; dry; medium richness mainly Sangiovese) Vino Nobile di Vino Nobile: usually more body (Sangiovese, others) Morellino di Scansano Morellino: rounder, riper, more generous fruit Rosso di Montalcino Rosso: fresh, firm, can show wood influence (Sangiovese) (often good value) Coteaux du Languedoc Languedoc – France Similar to Southern Rhône with notes of wild fruits & flora (Grenache, , others) Best: ripe, deep (can be good values)

Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Southern Rhône – France Ripe red fruits, can be textured; usually soft Rasteau, Séguret, etc. Best: ample, mouth-filling (great values) (mainly Grenache with Syrah, others)

Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph Northern Rhône – France Black currant, ink, fresh & dry (Syrah) Best: richer, improve with cellaring

Malbec Mendoza – Argentina Dense, ripe blackberry-plum; some are tougher, tannic, oaky

Médoc/ Haut Médoc cru Bordeaux – France Red & black fruits, supple or drier, astringent when young bourgeois (Cabernet Best: concentrated, firmly structured, better after cellaring Sauvignon, Merlot, others) 18 19 R ed W i nes Medium Weight continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Montepulciano d’ Abruzzi – Italy Range of weights, quality; can have rich fruit & dry finish Nemea (Agiorghitiko) Peleponnese – Greece Warm, spicy red fruits, balanced Best: more intensity, wood aging

Nero d’Avola Sicily – Italy Variable in style; licorice, black cherry, warm; some have new oak

Pinot Noir Willamette (Oregon) – USA Pronounced fruity red berry aromatics; moderate or higher Sonoma Coast, Carneros acidity; new oak usually present (California) – USA Best: balanced, integrated, more nuance & finesse Martinborough, Central Otago – New Zealand

Rioja Crianza or Reserva Rioja – Spain Fine red fruit fragrance, usually with vanilla overlay (mainly Tempranillo) (American oak); modern examples are richer in fruit

Savigny-lès-Beaune, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy) Red raspberry/currant aroma, fresh, dry Chorey-lès-Beaune, Volnay, – France Best: more substance, complexity Côte de Beaune-Villages, others (Pinot Noir)

Shiraz Victoria – Australia Dark, ripe black fruits but restrained, reserved with firm acidity

St. Emilion, Fronsac Bordeaux - France Vary in weight, intensity; red fruit-tea leaf aroma; dry (Merlot, Cabernet Franc)

Valpolicella ripasso Veneto – Italy Rich dark fruits, can have raisined note; dry (Corvina, , Best: full bodied, flavorful Rondinella, others)

20 21 This is the “A” league: the majority of the world’s most R ed Wines admired and collected red wines. The stylistic comments Concentrated, Full Bodied assume that you are serving a young, not cellared, vintage. They tend to be concentrated (more extract and intensity) With Significant and have almost always been aged in small oak barrels. Oak Barrel Influence Often a proportion of new oak (from one-fourth to three quarters, or more) has left its mark as spice, smoke, vanilla and other accents. The alcohol content of these wines is generally 13% to 14%, and sometimes more. Because of their flavor intensity, they are not necessarily the style that you will prefer with many foods, as they can be too dominating.

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Aglianico del Vulture Basilicata – Italy Super-concentrated, often highly tannic, rough when young; Best: balanced power, need bottle age

Amarone della Veneto – Italy Dried black cherry-boysenberry jam, sometimes with (Corvina, Corvinone, volatile note; potent, high alcohol Rondinella, Molinara, Best: mouth-filling yet controlled others)

Barolo & Piedmont – Italy Vary by maker, commune, site () : denser, more powerful; black fruits, potpourri notes Barbaresco: often pale color, very refined, expressive, complex Best: riservas - exquisite, intense aromas, finesse & length

Brunello di Montalcino Tuscany – Italy Concentrated, firmly defined with acidity & tannin when (Brunello = Sangiovese) young; vary from dense, rich, reserved to more expressive Best: riservas – multidimensional, powerful, intense, long-lived

Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (California) Dark, dense, degrees of ripeness; varying levels of tannin Bordeaux blends/Meritage – USA when young (ultra premium, generally Stellenbosch – South Africa Napa: may have high alcohol & heavy dose of new oak, starting at $30 and often Coonawarra, Margaret River leaving ‘sweet’ impression. much more) – Australia Coonawarra, Margaret River; ripe yet well balanced; Mendoza – Argentina may resemble Bordeaux (Médoc) reds

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Southern Rhône – France Ripe red cherry to kirsch liqueur; full, warm, powerful, (mainly Grenache with Syrah, low acidity; can be tannic when young Mourvèdre, others) Best: profound, imposing, mouth-coating

Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany – Italy Spicy, complex, muted wood influence; may be tightly (usually all Sangiovese) and framed by acidity & tannin when young Super Tuscans based on Best: intense, long-lived Sangiovese 22 23 R ed W i nes Concentrated, Full Bodied continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Cornas, Côte Rôtie, Northern Rhône – France Cornas: black currant, firm acidity; ‘old style’ can be tough Hermitage (red) Côte Rôtie : usually flowery, complex, long (Syrah - Côte Rôtie may Hermitage: dense, powerful, cassis-inky when young; have 3-6% Viognier) ages superbly

Corton (red), Clos St. Denis, Côte d’Or (Burgundy) – Vary by maker, site; range from perfumed to very reserved Clos de la Roche, Charmes- France when young; concentrated, usually rich with integrated Chambertin, Chambertin, new oak; demand bottle aging to show best Romanée St. Vivant, La Romanée, Musigny, other grands crus (Pinot Noir)

« GSM » (Grenache, Shiraz, South Australia – Australia Deep, rich, ripe, powerful Mourvèdre) Best: deep, more nuanced

Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, Bordeaux – France Vary in style by & château: medium weight, St. Estèphe, Pessac-Léognan fragrant to concentrated, tannic when young; balanced, crus classés (classified integrated new oak; best: multidimensional, very long-lived; growths) (Blends of Cabernet ‘blue chips’ of wine auction market Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, others)

Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Lucia Dense, rich, ripe red fruits & berries; can be “hot” Highlands, Russian River (alcoholic), oaky (California) – USA Best: voluptuous, opulent

Pomerol, St. Emilion Grands Bordeaux – France Pomerol: ripe, ‘sweet’ red plum, supple; best: rich, sensual Crus Classés (mainly Merlot, St. Emilion GCC: leafy-red fruit aromas, degrees of some with Cabernet Franc firmness; can be flamboyantly rich, alcoholic in recent and/or Cabernet Sauvignon hot in St. Emilion)

Pommard, Nuits St. Georges, Côte d’Or (Burgundy) Vary by maker, commune, site; range from aromatic red Chambolle-Musigny, Morey – France fruits, berries to darker fruits; can be concentrated, tannic & St. Denis, Vosne-Romanée, firm depending on vintage & age Gevrey-Chambertin, others Best: premiers crus – varied personalities (Pinot Noir)

Priorat, Montsant Catalonia – Spain Many personalities depending on blend; usually dark, ripe, (variable: Tempranillo, rich with new American/French oak overlay Garnacha, Carineña, Best: voluptuous, explosive, heady Cabernet Sauvignon, others)

Ribera del Duero Duero – Spain Ripe, dark red fruits; can be generous, expressive (Tinto Fino = Tempranillo) with new oak 24 25 R ed W i nes Concentrated, Full Bodied continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Rioja Gran Reserva Rioja – Spain Fragrant, pronounced vanilla of extended barrel aging (mainly Tempranillo with (American oak); warm, silky; best: perfumed, fine, Garnacha, others) very long on palate

Shiraz/Syrah (premium & South Australia, New South Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare: opaque, ripe, black cherry ultra premium, generally Wales, Western Australia jam; Barossa can be ultra-rich, alcoholic, strongly marked starting at $20 per bottle) – Australia by American oak Santa Barbara (California) Hunter, Orange: spicy, leathery, warm or dark, ripe, – USA richly fruity Margaret River, Great Southern: concentrated yet ‘cooler,’ firmer Santa Ynez: potent dark fruits; overlay of new French oak

Zinfandel Sonoma, Napa, Amador, San Ripe cranberry to black cherry fruit; warm to ‘hot’ Luis Obispo (California) – (alcoholic – 15%); some leave sweet aftertaste, others USA are drier, more restrained

26 27 These dessert wines are produced primarily by allowing the Sweet Dessert grapes to remain on the vine weeks or even months after the normal . Grapes for many of the styles listed W i nes (Sélection de Grains Nobles, , Trockenbeerenauslese With Very High Acidity and others) are shriveled and dehydrated by “” (), concentrating the sugars and also bringing about other chemical changes. While all these wines are very sweet, many are delicate and easily over- whelmed by common desserts (especially chocolate).

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments Sparkling Sweet Wines Belong in this style group for food affinities

Asti Spumante Piedmont – Italy Mainly simple, sweet & strongly aromatic; (full pressure) (Muscat) often coarse bubbles

Moscato d’Asti frizzante (low Piedmont - Italy Highly aromatic (grapey), sweet, faint bubbles pressure, low alcohol- 5.5%) Best: charming

Still (non-sparkling) Sweet Wines

Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Anjou, Touraine (Loire) Degrees of richness, opulence vary; can have honey, peach, Layon, Vouvray moelleux – France apricot, quince; broad, softer than other late harvest (Chenin Blanc)

Riesling , Mosel, Rhine, Nahe Intense, complex, penetrating aroma of apple, spice, dried Trockenbeerenauslese – Germany apple, apricot; razor-sharp acidity; extraordinary, immortal Riesling Eiswein/ Mosel, Rhine – Germany Made from grapes frozen on vine; intensely sweet, flowery, Niagara (Ontario) – Canada crystalline purity

Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Alsace – France All from “nobly rotten” berries, vary by variety; apparent Pinot Gris Sélection de acidity less with Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris Grains Nobles

Sauternes, Barsac Bordeaux – France Always sweet, degree of ‘noble rot’ varies by vintage; (Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc) apricot, orange peel, candied lemon, spice

Semillon Noble Late Harvest Barossa – Australia Deeply colored; apricot, yellow peach, oily-lanolin tone (great values)

Tokaji 4, 5 or 6 puttonyos – Extra sweetness, complexity achieved by adding tubs (Harslevelu, , others) of grape paste (puttonyos); intense sweetness, rapier-like acidity; dried apricot, orange peel

Vin Santo Tuscany – Italy Can vary in sweetness; usually nutty, orange peel; (, ) woody & sharp (volatile) bouquet 28 29 Fortified wines come in many colors and tastes. They can Forti fi ed be delicious to drink on their own and combine magically with sweet desserts. A small amount can transform a sauce, Sweet W i nes turning the ordinary dish into something extraordinary. From Fruity to Nutty These fortified wines are divided into three groups that serve as a quick guide to their essential tastes: A – “fruit” wines that taste of ripe grapes & fruits B – nutty, spicy wines with bouquets created by contact with air & lengthy barrel aging (the rancio style) C – wines with the concentrated richness of raisins & other dried fruits

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Banyuls, Maury – rancio style Roussillon – France B – Pale brown-tawny; nutty-rich bouquet; very sweet, rich (Grenache)

Banyuls, Maury – Vintage Roussillon – France A – Dark red; liqueur-like ripe, black cherry-plum style (Grenache) fruitiness; full, sweet, powerful

Commandaria Cyprus B & C – Dark brown, caramel, spice (Mavro, Xynisteri)

Liqueur Muscat (Muscat) Rutherglen (Victoria) B – Ultra-rich, perfumed toffee bouquet; thick, almost Liqueur Tokay (Muscadelle) – Australia syrupy; can be extraordinary (great values) Madeira (Verdelho, Bual, Madeira – Portugal B – Range from green-tinged, pale, more subtle, finely Malmsey) calibrated to dense mahogany, ultra-rich; always have penetrating bouquets & razor-sharp acidity

Mavrodaphne Pátras – Greece B & C – Light brown, medium weight, smooth, understated (Mavrodaphne, Korinthiaki)

Muscat de Beaumes-de- Rhône, Roussillon – France A – Light yellow-gold; perfumed aromas of fresh Venise, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Pantelleria – Italy Muscat grapes, orange, flowers; sweet, rich Moscato di Pantelleria, Sámos, Pátras – Greece Best: acidity balances the sugar Muscat of Sámos, Pátras (all vins doux naturels or ‘naturally sweet fortified wines’)

Port – Douro – Portugal A – Vintage/Single Quinta: blackish red to opaque when Bottled aged: young; powerful fruit aromas; can be aggressive, tannic, Vintage, Single Quinta marked by fortifying spirit until 10 years old (estate) Wood aged: LBV: more barrel influence, usually ready on release Late Bottled Vintage (‘Traditional’ style will improve with bottle age) (, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, others) 30 31 Forti fi ed Sweet W i nes continued

W ine T ype (grape in italics) R egion & C ountry Stylistic comments

Port – Tawny, Colheita Douro – Portugal B – Pale tawny-red; roasted nut-spice bouquet, more (Tawny with a vintage) pronounced with older Tawnies; fine, potentially very (grapes as previous Port long & complex on palate listing on page 30) Barossa – Australia Appear sweeter, more opulent than Portuguese Tawnies (Shiraz, Grenache, , others)

« PX », Montilla, Malaga Jerez, Montilla, Malaga B & C – Opaque dark brown ; heavy, viscous; fig jam (Pedro Ximenez) – Spain

Sherry – Cream Jerez – Spain B & C – Dark mahogany; dried figs, caramel, thick texture (Palomino, usually with coloring/sweetening agent)

32 33 Roger has enjoyed a long career in the wine trade.

Currently, he is managing partner of Millesima

USA, a retail entity affiliated with Europe’s leading

fine wine mail order company. For many years, he

was a senior executive with a well-known importer,

managing an extensive portfolio from France, Italy,

Spain, Argentina and other countries. He traveled

regularly abroad to visit and taste the new

vintage from barrel. In 1993, he was one of the first

Americans – now numbering about two dozen –

to acquire the prestigious Master of Wine® title

(“MW”), and he served as founding president

of the Institute of Masters of Wine (No. America).

Roger is a passionate home chef who takes

the same inquisitive, global approach to

cuisine as he does to wine.

34 As seen in Sante Magazine for Restaurant Professionals, March ‘09

© Roger C Bohmrich 2009