Events and Markets

M a r k e t s : Most every town in Tuscany has a market day, when local vendors set up stands selling produces, clothes, and other basic necessities. This is a true “slice of life” opportunity to mingle with locals as they do their weekly necessity shopping. Even though it’s morning, grab a panino porchetta for a couple euros of the most fragrant, tender pork ever on a fresh roll. Perhaps scout the seasonal produce for a midday snack. If you’re a patient shopper and happy to dig, there are good deals to be found on moderate quality clothing, accessories, and linens. Markets begin between 8 and 9 in the morning; life in rural Tuscany is such that one need not get up at 6 a.m. for the best finds. Stalls shut down before lunch, usually around 1 p.m.. Nearby markets include:

Tuesday: Monteroni d’Arbia, San Quirico d’Orcia (only on alternating Tuesday)

Wednesday: Siena (called la Lizza) Thursday: Montepulciano, San Gimignano Friday: Montalcino, Pienza Saturday: Buonconvento

In addition to weekly grocery / housewares / clothing markets, there are many regular, specialized monthly markets nearby, listed below:

• A r e z z o A n t i q u e F a i r – weekend of first Sunday of every month

• A r t i e M e s t i e r i d ’ O l t a r n o , Florence – local arts and crafts (between Santo Spirito and Borgo Tegolaio) – 2nd Sunday of every month

- 163 - • A r t a n d A n t i q u e s , Montepulciano (Piazza saint hold festivities, large and small, to glorify the saint and bask in Grande) – 2nd weekend every month his or her blessings. In Siena, each contrada celebrates the day of its own particular saint by various means, usually feasting, and always • F l o r e n c e A n t i q u e M a r k e t (Piazza a mass baptism of the year’s worth of newborns in the contrada’s Santo Spirito) – 3rd Sunday of every month special fountain.

• S i e n a A n t i q u e F a i r (Piazza Mercato) – focus on stamps / coins – 3rd Sunday of the month N a t i o n a l H o l i d a y s :

• January 1

• January 6, E p i p h a n y

• Easter Monday, P a s q u e t t a or “little Easter” although many places will close for Good Friday (Venerdì Santo) as well

• April 25, L i b e r a t i o n D a y (WWII Ally led liberation of the peninsula)

• May 1, P r i m o M a g g i o , Labor Day

• August 15, F e r r a g o s t o , Assumption

The antique market in Siena • November 1, O g n i s s a n t i , All Saints

• December 8, I mm a c u l a t e C o n c e p t i o n Celebrating • December 25

Italians love a good reason to celebrate. On any given day, it is likely • December 26 that some nearby town is in the throws of preparation for some event and cause for celebration. These festivities can be religious, Country fairs may be the most abundant, but are the hardest to civic, or country festivals. pin down. There is probably a sagra or festival for every sort of food one finds on the continent: zucchini flowers in the spring, figs and Religious festivals tend to celebrate a patron saint on his or her feast peaches in the summer, wine, oil and game in the autumn, chestnuts day. Various cities and towns under the protection of that particular in the colder months. Indeed, there are festivals in honor of Italy’s

- 164 - - 165 - gastronomic coups de graces, white truffles and Florentine beef for d e l l ’ O l i o , Siena – olive oil at the Enoteca example, but even the lowly garden snail, the ubiquitous onion, Italiana in the Medici Fortress. or the simple polenta get a moment in the spotlight somewhere in Italy. During the high season from July to September, on any • Week Preceding Lent – C a r n e v a l e , given weekend there may be a sagra in every other town. While Buonconvento – masked parade with floats made by the some events are well rooted, like Pienza’s cheese festival that began town’s four quarters and hundreds of revelers, dancing and with a market over one hundred years ago, many are newly created feasting follows (most communities celebrate Carnevale and therefore, unpredictable. Therefore, a comprehensive list is in some way, Tuscany’s largest and best known is in unlikely. What follows is our best attempt. Bold indicates a don’t Viareggio. miss event.

Festivals are usually well advertised, with banners hanging over roads that pass through town and fliers and posters in coffee shops. M a r c h Festooned streets and tents are dead giveaways. Stop, explore, and take your cues from the locals. • S e t t i m a n a N a z i o n a l e d e l l ’ O l i o (cont.) Siena – olive oil at the Enoteca Italiana in the Medici Fortress. J a n u a r y • March 12 – F e s t a e F i e r a d i S a n t a F i n a , San Gimignano – fair and livery on feast day of • January 2—6 – F i e r a d i S a n G i m i g n a n o patron saint.. – huge market, Piazza della Cisterna. • March 19 – F e s t a d i S a n G i u s e p p e , Siena • January 31 – F e s t a d i S a n G i m i g n a n o – – Onda Contrada celebrates patron saint with arts, crafts, displays and market stands. and food – fried sweets.

• March 25 – C a p o d a n n o F i o r e n t i n o , Florence - “year end” fair with flower and sweets F e b r u a r y venders in the Piazza of SS Annunziata.

• Late March – C a n t i n e A p e r t e , Radda in Chianti – series of events in Chianti. • February 17 – C o mm e m o r a z i o n e d i A n n a L u i s a d e ’M e d i c i , Florence – historic parade • Easter from the Piazza della Signoria to the Capella dei Principi. • Good Friday – P r o c e s s i o n e d e l G e s ù • Late February – S e t t i m a n a N a z i o n a l e M o r t o , Buonconvento – solemn procession around

- 166 - - 167 - town leaving from the church. • Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Florence – established and prestigious musical festival. • Easter Sunday – S c o p p i o d e l C a r r o , Florence – lighting of “new fire” with rocket and • C a n t i n e A p e r t e , Montalcino – “open cellars” fireworks in front of the Duomo. at various vineyards and historic palaces (Special day on last Sunday). • Easter Weekend – C o s e d e l P a s s a t o , Buonconvento – antique market with dealers from all • C a n t i n e A p e r t e , Montepulciano – “open around, art shows, tastings. cellars” at various vineyards and historic palaces.

• May 1 – C o r s a d e i C i u c h i , Sant’Angelo Scalo (Montalcino) – neighborhood competition, tasting A p r i l stands, and folklore.

• May 1 – F e s t a d i P r i m a v e r a , Pienza – food • C a n t i n e A p e r t e ( c o n t .) , Radda in stands in the Lecci garden. Chianti. • May 8 – F e s t a d i S a n t a M a r i a d e l • Last weekend – F i e r a d e l R a m e , Cortona – S o c c o r s o , Montalcino – horse race (the same copper fair with many antique vendors. horses will compete in the Palio in Siena), music, and fireworks from the fortress. • April 15 – F e s t a d i P r i m a v e r a , Pienza – food stands in the Lecci garden. • May 10—11 – F e s t a C a s t e l n u o v o , Castelnuovo dell’Abate (Montalcino) – celebrates • April 25 – F e s t a d e l l a S t a g i o n e Sant’Antimo. B u o n a , Greve – costumed 16th century reenactment. • 2nd weekend – P i e n z a e i F i o r i – flower show • April 25 – M a r c i a I ndipendenza , with displays inspired by paintings. Montalcino – celebrating Sienese independence until 1559 at its last bastion. • May 21 – P a l i o d e l B a l u a r d o , Florence.

• End of the month – F e s t a d i P r i m a v e r a , • May 23 – L a F i o r i t a , Florence. Montalcino – wine and food in the fortress. • Last Sunday – S a g r a d e l R a n o c c h i o , Empoli – frog festival with dancing and music.

M a y

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• 1st weekend – P r e n d i u n b i c c h i e r e , Radda in Chianti – wine tastings with producers.

• 1st two Sundays – S a g r a d e l R a n o c c h i o , Empoli (cont.) – frog festival with dancing and music.

• 1st Sunday – F i e r a d i P r i m a v e r a , Colle Val d’Elsa – huge spring market.

• 1st half – F e s t a M e d i e v a l e , Murlo – medieval festival with dancing, presentations, and al fresco Prima luna dell’Estate, Buonconvento feasting from ancient recipes. • June 24 (week of) – C a l c i o i n C o s t u m e , • June 11 – P a l i o d e i N a v i c e l l i , Florence. Florence – “traditional soccer” on the feast of patron St. • June 17 – F e s t a / P a l i o d i S t John in Piazza della Signoria filled with sand, rather like R a n i e r i , Pisa – historic regatta, lanterns on the watching rugby / wrestling / American football, starts with Arno. a huge procession.

• 3rd Saturday – P r i m a L u n a d ’ E s t a t e , • June 29 (days surrounding) – F e s t a d e i s s i e t r o e a o l o uonconvento Buonconvento – huge feast on main street to celebrate P P , B – celebrating the first moon of summer. patron saints with food, sports, music, and fireworks (celebrated in many places, beware of closings). • 2nd to last Saturday – G i o s t r a d e l Last Sunday i o c o d e l o n t e isa S a r a c i n o , Arezzo – costumed procession and • – G P , P – medieval tournament for a golden lance. reverse tug of war, pushing an iron cart across Ponte del Mezzo bridge on the Arno, costumed parade. • June 21—22 – F e s t a d e l B a r b a r o s s a , San Quirico – historical reenactment and archery contest.

• Third weekend – G i o s t r a d e i B a s t o n i , San J u l y Gimignano – historical revocation with stands, parades, and a tournament by “Cavalieri di Santa Fina” horse lovers. • S i e n a J a z z – musical events in and around the city.

- 170 - - 171 - • F e s t i v a l d e l l a V a l d ’ O r c i a – artistic • Mid-month – S e t t i m a n a M u s i c a l e and cultural itineraries plus performances in various S e n e s e , Siena – Accademia Musicale Chigiana’s venues. yearly week of concerts.

• E s t a t e M u s i c a l e S a n t a n t i m e s e , • Second half, on a Sunday afternoon – Montalcino – concerts in Sant‘Antimo. T r e b b i a t u r a , Buonconvento – celebrating the grain harvest with demonstrations and a typical farmer’s • J a z z e V i n o , Montalcino – Jazz and wine in dinner. town. • 3rd weekend (10 days) – M onteriggioni d i • C a n t i n i e r e I nternazionale T o r r i s i C o r o n a – medieval festival with d ’ A r t e , Montepulciano – operatic performances. reenactments, singing, games, and traditional food.

• T e a t r o P o v e r o , Monticchiello – avant-garde • July 23 – F e s t a d e l C o m p a t r o n o S . theatrical performances . C r i s t o f o r o , Monticchiello (Pienza) – music and fair for town patron, opens Teatro Povero season. • July 2 – P a l i o , Siena – best-known Italian festival, bareback horse race around Piazza del Campo, with • July 26 – F e s t a d i S a n t ’ A n n a , Florence – events, parades, and feasting the week surrounding. parade from Palazzo Vecchio to Orsanmichele.

• Last weekend – R o c c a E s t a t e , Rocca d’Orcia – food and craft stands.

• End of July – F e s t a M e d i e v a l e , Radicofani – medieval festival in the fortress.

A u g u s t

• S i e n a J a z z ( cont.).

• F e s t i v a l d e l l a V a l d ’ O r c i a (cont.). The Palio in Siena • E s t a t e m u s i c a l e S a n t a n t i m e s e , Montalcino – concerts in Sant‘Antimo (cont.).

- 172 - - 173 - • T e a t r o P o v e r o , Monticchiello (cont.).

• (changing) - S a g r a d e l F u n g o P o r c i n o , Cortona – Porcini mushroom festival.

• 1st Sunday – F e s t a e F i e r a d i S a n t a F i n a , San Gimignano – fair and livery on feast day of patron saint.

• 2nd Sunday – T o r n e o d i A p e r t u r e d e l l e C a c c e , Montalcino – medieval fair and archery tournament to celebrate the opening of the hunt.

• August 10 – F e s t a d i S a n L o r e n z o , The Palio in Siena Florence – parade and stands at San Lorenzo.

• August 10 – C a l i c i S o t t o l e S t e l l e , San • Last weekend – M o s t r a M e r c a t o Gimignano – on the Notte di San Lorenzo, wine tasting N a z i o n a l e d e l M o b i l e A n t i c o , and star watching in the Piazza dell’Erbe. Cortona – antique furniture fair.

• August 15 – S a g r a d e l l a B i s t e c c a , • End of August – S a g r a d e l B u o n g u s t a i o , ortona C – steak festival in the public gardens, prepared San Gimignano – “good taste” fair. over an enormous grill.

• August 15 – I l B r u s c e l l o , Montepulciano – theatrical parade and performances. S e p t e m b e r

• August 16 – P a l i o , Siena – best-known Italian festival, see info above (July). • Beginning of September – S a g r a d e l • Sunday after August 15 – S a g r a d e l B u o n g u s t a i o , San Gimignano (cont.). R a v i o l i , Radicofani – feast on ravioli with Sardinian ricotta. • First weekend – M o s t r a M e r c a t o N a z i o n a l e d e l M o b i l e A n t i c o , • Last Sunday – B r a v i o d e l l e B o t t e , Cortona (cont.). Montepulciano – 85 kilo barrel race through the streets of town, 1800 meters uphill! • First weekend – F i e r a N a z i o n a l e d i M i e l e , Montalcino – honey fair.

- 174 - - 175 - • First weekend – F i e r a d e l C a c i o , Pienza – and tastings, and al fresco dinners all week and both cheese fair with tastings and cheese wheel rolling game in surrounding weekends. the Piazza. • Late September – F e s t a d e l l a • 1st Sunday – L ’ A s t i l u d i o , Volterra – V e n d e mm i a , Radda in Chianti – harvest festival. costumed flag-throwing contest in the Piazza dei Priori.

• September 7 – R i f i c o l o n e , Florence – lanterns- lit Arno by night, food fair by day. O c t o b e r

• September 8 – F e s t a d e l l a M a d o n n a ,

Siena – children parade in costume. • M u s i c a d e i P o p o l i , Florence – world music festival. • September 8 – F e s t a d e l l a M a d o n n a d i a n c o l e an imignano P , S G – stands and fireworks. • First Sunday – S a g r a d e l G a l l e t t o , Casigliano (Montalcino) – cockerel feast. • 2nd week – M o s t r a m e r c a t o d e l C h i a n t i C l a s s i c o , Greve – Chianti festival. • October 8 – F e s t a d i S a n t a R e p a r a t a , Florence – music and costumes • 2nd weekend – M o n t i c c h i e l l o i n F e s t a . • Next to last Sunday – S a g r a d e l l e • 2nd weekend - W e e k e n d E t r u s c o , Murlo – C a s t a g n e , Lucolena (Greve in Chianti) – archaeological itineraries and feasting. chestnut festival.

• Mid-September – a g r a d i u n g h i S F • Last Sunday (weekend) – S a g r a d e l T o r d o , P o r c i n i , Monte Amiata (Bagnola di Santa Fiora) – Montalcino – Thrush festival celebrating the end of the porcini festival. hunt with costumed events, feasting, and a ball.

• 3rd week – F i e r a d i S e t t e m b r e , Pienza – • Last weekend to first weekend in November – large market in the town center. G i a l l o C o m e l ’ O r o , San Gimignano – saffron fair. • Last Sunday – G i o s t r a d e l S a r a c i n o , Arezzo – costumed procession and medieval tournament for a golden lance . o v e m b e r • Last week – S a g r a d e l l a V a l d ’ A r b i a , N Buonconvento – celebration of Chianina beef with weekend art shows, farming displays, performances,

- 176 - - 177 - • Early November – P r i m o O l i o , Asciano – celebrating the first press of olive oil.

• Second half – T a r t u f o B i a n c o d e l l e C r e t e S e n e s i , San Giovanni d’Asso – white truffle fair with costumed events, stands, and food.

• End of the month – F e s t a d e l l a T o s c a n a , Pienza.

D e c e m b e r

• M o s t r a m e r c a t o d e l T a r t u f o b i a n c o d e l l a V a l d i C e c i n a , Volterra – white truffle conference with stands and events.

• December 5—8 – F e s t a d e l l ’ O l i o , San Quirico – tasting stands and street theater to celebrate the new oil.

• December 8 – G i o c o d e l P a n f o r t e , Pienza – ‘traditional winter games’ with hard fruitcake!

• December 13 – F e s t a d i S a n t a L u c i a , Siena – Chiocciola contrada celebrates with a market of ceramics and sweets.

• December 21 – F e s t a d e g l i O m a g g i , Florence.

• End of the month – D e E x c e l l e n t i a O l e i , San Gimignano – olive oil fair.

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