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Contents Climate ...... 2 Physical Features ...... 5 and Lakes ...... 8 Lakes of ...... 9

Rivers in Japan ...... 10

Economic Activities ...... 13 Social and Cultural Activities ...... 15 Dress ...... 15

Food ...... 18

Annual Events ...... 19

Annual Events ...... 20

Festivals ...... 21

Japanese Flag ...... 24 Government ...... 25

1

Climate

As the stretches over a distance of thousands of kilometres, the climate varies considerably from in the north (short mild summers and long summers with heavy snowfall) to the subtropical climate of Okinawa in the south. Also, on the mainland, you often get large differences between the Japan Sea coast (colder fronts from Siberia) and the Pacific coast (warmer sea currents called kuroshio or Japan Current). Here's a general sesonal guide, though temperatures are obviously colder/warmer to the north/south of the mainland:

Winters (December-February) are long with lots of snow in Hokkaido, the Japan Alps and much of the Japan Sea coast. The rest of the mainland gets some amount of snow - sometimes little or none - and temperatures hover in the low single digits. But the weather is usually clear and a damn sight better than the cold and damp European winters I grew up in. doesn't usually get much snow and even when it does snow, it doesn't usually stay on the ground long.

Spring (March-May) is probably the best time to visit Japan with cherry trees blossoming and mild weather, though the Golden Week holidays are expensive time. If you attend a cherry-blossom viewing party, you'll probably enjoy a nice warm afternoon but need a sweater in the evening. This is assuming that you don't get rained out though. It seems that the rain front that usually follows behind the so-called "cherry-blossom front" is what strips most of the blossoms from the trees.

Summer (June-August) is oppresively hot and humid (almost 40 degrees in many places in recent years and over 30 degrees most days for several months) everywhere except Hokkaido and the mountains. Actually the humidity is probably the killer as it can be very uncomfortable even when temperatures are moderate. There's a rainy season (tsuyu) in June and the typhoon (typhoo) season in September that marks the end of summer/beginning of autumn.

Autumn is a time of changeable, unpredictable but generally mild weather - apart from the typhoons obviously - and is considered the time when many Japanese foods are at their most delicious. But if you're planning a gourmet trip around this time, make a point of checking the short-term weather forecast. The good thing about typhoons is that you can see them coming, usually at least three or four days in advance. The bigger typhoons can cause huge amounts of damage and most years deaths from flooding, landslides and the like are not uncommon. During this season, you'll find it hard to tell whether you're wet through from the rain or the sweat, especially if you're unlucky enough to have to do a rush-hour commute. Hokkaido is usually lucky enough not to be hit by these storms.

The Japanese make a lot of the fact that they have four distinct seasons - as if it was something unique to their country. Actually, the fact that the archipelago covers several climatic zones and is caught between the Asian continent and the Pacific does cause dramatic mood swings in the weather. Cold, dry winters and hot, humid summers can be found all over the world but there are certain seasonal treats that only Japan can offer and others that have their own local twist.

Mt. Fuji can often be seen at its majestic The , the national flower, is best in the clear air of winter also a symbol of life's transience

The snows of winter are eagerly awaited by skiers and snowboarders, who fill popular resorts such as and Naeba and parade the latest fashions on the slopes. Winter sports have become hugely popular in recent years and the 1998 Winter Olympics held in were hugely successful. The Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) held in every February attracts thousands of tourists from Japan and abroad. The chilly weather takes it toll on the nation's health and it's common to see people wearing white gauze masks over their mouths. The masks are not to protect the wearer but rather to prevent others from catching the cold - very considerate.

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In spring, one of the best-loved symbols of Japan makes a dramatic sweep across the country. Sakura (cherry blossoms) bloom usually from the end of March through April in a kind of wave starting in southern Kyushu and working its way northeast. News reports keep the populace up to date on the best places to enjoy (lit. flower viewing). The hanami tradition has been popular since the (794~1185) and is a good example of the Japanese view of beauty in nature. The undeniable beauty of the delicate pink flowers is offset by a sense of melancholy at their all-too-brief appearance. This is often compared to our own short time spent on the earth. This mixture of feelings is best expressed when completely drunk, of course. And so every year, hundreds of thousands of Japanese of all ages gather beneath the pink blooms, sing karaoke, dance and drink till they fall over. Ironically, one popular hanami spot in Tokyo is the Aoyama Bochi (cemetery). Those resting under the rows of tombstones are almost forgotten as they are sprinkled with falling blossoms and the ocassional spilled beer. See our hanami page for more.

Though not counted as one of the four seasons, there is enough rain in June for it to be called tsuyu (the rainy season). Ajisai (hydrangea) blooms turn a pale lilac and then a deep blue as the rain continues to fall. Japanese people seem to have a bit of a rain phobia at the best of times, judging from how quick they are to use their umbrellas, but at this time of year, trying to manoeuvre through thousands of the things is a life-threatening experience. And no sooner has the rain showed signs of easing than the thermometer and hydrometer go through the roof and the hot, humid summer is underway.

The blue flowers of the hydrangea signal the Suikawari - Split the Watermelon - is a popular summer coming of the rainy season beach game

In summer, temperatures get to the mid-30's in most areas and the humidity can be unbearable. Only Hokkaido is spared the worst of the extremes. At the weekend, people flock in their thousands to the beaches or to the relative cool of the mountains. Summer is also the season of matsuri (festivals) and hanabi(fireworks). The biggest festival of the year, Obon is held in August (July in some areas). The annual hanabi taikai (fireworks display) held on the Sumida in Tokyo is hugely popular, drawing over a million and a half people every year. Started in 1733 by rival firework makers and Kagiya, the dramatic and exhilarating explosions still draw excited shouts of 'Tamaya!' and 'Kagiya!' from the crowd. Although schools are on vacation in July and August, high school baseball teams are busy vying for a chance to represent their prefecture at the baseball championship held at Koshien Stadium in Hyogo Prefecture. The event is eagerly followed by the whole country.

The end of summer and beginning of autumn sees the arrival from the Pacific of typhoons, tropical storms equivalent to hurricanes in the West. Most typhoons hit the Kyushu region first and then proceed across the country, wreaking havoc. Some of the worst typhoons have killed thousands of people. A typhoon was also responsible for sinking the fleet of the invading Mongols in the 13th century, earning itself the name kamikaze (divine wind). September is the time for tsukimi (moon viewing). Like hanami, it is a tradition dating from the Heian Period although it is not as popular today. As the weather cools in October and November, leaves begin to change color and suddenly the landscape is a dramatic palette of red, brown, orange, yellow and green. The koyo (red leaves) of late autumn are an often breathtaking sight, especially against a backdrop of Mt Fuji or a temple in .

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Two views of the spectacular colors that can be seen during the koyo season in Kyoto

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Physical Features

Nihon and Nippon are the two names used in Japanese to refer to Japan. The latter is usually prefered in formal situations, probably because it can be pronounced with more forcefulness. The characters used are "nichi" meaning sun, and "hon" meaning origin, The combination is usually translated as "the land of the rising sun". This phrase can be traced back to the 7th-century ruler Prince Shotoku, who used it in a letter to China.

The origin of the word "Japan" used in western languages is less clear. One theory holds that it came from the Portuguese "jipang", which in turn was an attempt to pronounce "Jihpenkuo", the name for Japan used in northern China. Another idea is that Dutch traders pronounced "Yatpun", the name used in southern China, as "Japan" (the 'j' being pronounced like a 'y').

Geography Japan is an island nation located off the east coast of the Asian continent. The archipelago of about 7,000 islands runs almost 3,000km northeast to southwest. The total land area is just under 388,000 square kilometers, roughly equal in size to the US state of Montana or 1.5 times the land area of the UK. Only about 16% of the land is fertile, the rest being mostly forest- covered mountains. Japan is located on the western rim of the so-called Pacific "Ring of Fire" and as a result suffers from frequent earthquakes and volcanic activity. There are four main islands - , often referred to as the mainland, Hokkaido, Kyushu and . Read more about the regions of Japan.

Population Population Statistics The population of Japan in 2012 was approximately 127,650,000, which marked the first significant annual decrease since World War II. Japan is the 10th most populous country in the world. In 1920, the population was about 56 million and after peaking at over 128 million in the 2010 census, the projected population for 2050 is just over 100 million. Of which a third are expected to be aged 65 years or over, up from the recent 23% (2010).The Japanese refer to this ongoing phenomenon as the 'silver' society.

The estimated number of children (aged up to 14 years) is 17 million, a declining segment of the total population at around 13% (2010), of which boys make up abou 51%, girls 49%. This figure began to decline in the early 1950s after the first 'baby boom' and rose slightly during the second baby boom (1971-1974) but has been on the decline ever since.

Approximately 79% of the population live in urban areas. The most densely populated areas are on the Pacific coast of the main island of Honshu, in the Kantoregion - the Tokyo metropolis and its port cities of and Kawasaki - and the Kansai area, centered around the cities of Osaka, and Kyoto.

Read more about the major cities of Japan.

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Japan Flag - Hinomaru

Cherry Blossoms - Sakura

Symbols The flag of Japan is called the Hinomaru (rising sun). It consists of a red circle centered on a white background. The flag has length:width proportions of 3:2 and the circle is 3/5 of the width. Although its history goes further back, the flag was first officially raised on merchant ships in 1870, shortly after the "modern" era began.

The Japanese national anthem is (The Emperor's Reign). It was composed by Hayashi Hiromori in 1880 and adopted as the national anthem in 1888. The lyrics are taken from the Kokinshu, a Heian Period (794-1185) anthology of poetry and are written in the form of a 5-line, 31-syllable tanka poem.

Kimi ga yo wa Chiyo ni yachiyo ni Sazare ishi no Iwao to nari te Koke no musu made.

They can be translated as: May the reign of the Emperor continue for a thousand, nay, eight thousand generations and for the eternity that it takes for small pebbles to grow into a great rock and become covered with moss.

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Both the flag and the anthem are sources of some controversy. For example, theJapan Communist Party has long protested that since neither are actually recognized as official in the constitution and are more or less "de facto" national symbols, established by social custom rather than in law, the government should allow a national debate on the issue. They also arouse memories of Japan's wartime aggression among the country's Asian neighbors.

Some less contentious symbols of Japan include the sakura (cherry blossom), the national flower, and the kiji (pheasant), the national bird. The blooming of cherry blossoms is eagerly awaited across the country every year. Millions of people go tohanami (flower viewing) parties to welcome the coming of spring. Also, given the short time that the blossoms remain on the trees, they are also seen as a poignant reminder of the transience of life itself.

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Rivers and Lakes

Although Japan is abundantly watered—almost every valley has a stream—no long navigable rivers exist. The larger Japanese rivers vary in size from swollen freshets during the spring thaw or the summer rainy season to small streams during dry weather. Successions of rapids and shallows are so common that only boats of extremely shallow draught can navigate.

Rivers of Japan are characterized by their relatively short lengths and considerably steep gradients due to the narrow and mountainous topography of the country. An often-cited quote is 'this is not a river, but a waterfall' by the Dutch engineer (o-yatoi gaikokujin) Johannis de Rijke who had visited the Jōganji River, Prefecture. The Mogami, the Fujiand the Kuma are regarded as the three most rapid rivers of Japan.

Typical rivers of Japan rise from mountainous forests and cut out deep V-shaped valleys in their upper reaches, and form alluvial plains in their lower reaches which enable the Japanese to cultivate fields and to set up cities. Most rivers are dammed to supply both water and electricity.

The longest river in Japan is the Shinano, on Honshu, which is about 370 km (230 mi) long and flows from Nagano to ; other large rivers on Honshu are the Tone, Kitakami, Tenryu, and Mogami. . The Tone has the largest watershed and serves water to more than 30 million inhabitants of Tokyo metropolitan area.

The important rivers of Hokkaido include the second-largest river of Japan, the , and the Teshio and . The Yoshino is the longest river in Shikoku.

The many Japanese lakes are noted for their scenic beauty. Some are located in the river valleys, but the majority are mountain lakes, and many are summer resorts. The largest lake in Japan is Biwa, on Honshu, which covers about 685 sq km (265 sq mi).

The vast majority of rivers and streams in Japan have had their banks concreted as a control measure, rendering many of them little more than glorified drains in large urban areas.

The beautiful , which flows through Kyoto and inspired Japanese haiku poets and painters in times gone past, still has an illegal yakuza-run incinerator in its upper reaches despite a decades-long citizens' protest to shut it down.

Despite this, and the amount of household garbage that is routinely thrown into them, Japanese rivers and streams provide viable eco-systems for a remarkable number of fish, birds, frogs, turtles and insects to survive and indeed thrive in adversity in some areas.

The in Nagano and Niigata Prefectures is Japan's longest river at 367km. The Go River in Shimane is one of the few that has not been overly-concreted along its banks. 8

Lakes of Japan Lakes of Japan are listed according to size in descending order (with the largest listed first).

Max Area Altitude Volume Depth

Name Region Prefecture¹ Water (km²) (m) (m) (km³)

Ōtsu, Kusatsu, Higashi-Ōmi, Hikone

Nagahama, Moriyama, Ōmi-

Biwa Kansai Shiga Takashima, Yasu, Maibara Fresh 670.3 103.8 85 27.5

Tsuchiura, Ishioka, ,

Kasumigaura Kantō Ibaraki Ami, Kasumigaura, , Itako, Miho Fresh 167.6 7.1 0 0.85

Saroma Hokkaidō , Saroma, Yūbetsu Brackish 151.9 19.6 0 1.3

Inawashiro Tōhoku , Aizu-Wakamatsu, Inawashiro Fresh 103.3 94.6 514 5.4

Shimane , Yonago, Yasugi

Nakaumi San'in Sakaiminato, Higashi-Izumo Brackish 86.2 17.1 0 0.47

Kussharo Hokkaidō Teshikaga Fresh 79.3 117.5 121 2.25

Shinji San'in Shimane Matsue, Izumo, Hikawa Brackish 79.1 6 0 0.34

Shikotsu Hokkaidō Ishikari Chitose Fresh 78.4 360.1 247 20.9

Tōya Hokkaidō Iburi Lake Tōya, Sōbetsu Fresh 70.7 179.9 84 8.19

Hamana Tōkai , Kosai, Arai Brackish 65 13.1 0 0.35

Ogawara Tōhoku Misawa, Tōhoku, Rokkasho Brackish 62.2 24.4 0 0.714

Aomori

Towada Tōhoku Towada, Kosaka Fresh 61 326.8 400 4.19

Notoro Hokkaidō Abashiri Abashiri Brackish 58.4 23.1 0 0.5

Fūren Hokkaidō Nemuro Nemuro, Betsukai Brackish 57.5 13 0 0.0564

Kitaura Kantō Ibaraki Kashima, Hokota, Namegata, Itako Fresh 35.2 7 0 0.18

Abashiri Hokkaidō Abashiri Abashiri, Ōzora Brackish 32.3 16.1 0 0.2

Akkeshi Hokkaidō Kushiro Akkeshi, Hokkaidō Fresh 32.3 11 0

Hachirō Tōhoku Akita Katagami, Oga, Gojōme, Ikawa, Ōgata Fresh 27.7 12 0

Tazawa Tōhoku Akita Senboku Fresh 25.8 423.4 249 7.2

Mashū Hokkaidō Kushiro Teshikaga Fresh 19.2 211.4 351

Jūsan Tōhoku Aomori , Tsugaru, Brackish 18.1 1.5 0

Kutcharo Hokkaidō Sōya Hamatonbetsu Fresh 13.3 3.3 0 0.014

Suwa Chūbu Nagano Okaya, Suwa, Shimo-Suwa Fresh 13.3 7.6 759 0.06135

Akan Hokkaidō Kushiro Kushiro Fresh 13 44.8 420 0.249

Chūzenji Kantō Nikkō Fresh 11.8 163 1269 1.1

Inba Kantō Yachiyo, Sakura, Narita, , Shisui, Sakae Fresh 11.55 2.5 2.5 0.0277

Ikeda Kyūshū Ibusuki Fresh 10.9 233 66 1.38

Hibara Tōhoku Fukushima Kitashiobara Fresh 10.7 30.5 822 0.13

Kuttara Hokkaidō Iburi Shiraoi Fresh 4.68 148 258 0.491

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Rivers in Japan Hokkaidō

The following is a list of the first class rivers under management by the Hokkaidō Regional Development Bureau

 Shiribeshi-Toshibetsu River   Shiribetsu River  Koetoi River  Shokotsu River   Yūbetsu River   Tōhoku

First class rivers under the control of Tohoku Regional Bureau

 Naruse River  Aka River   Second class river  Chugoku

First class rivers under control of Chugoku Regional Bureau

River  River   Go-no, or Go  Ota   Ose River  Saba River

Hokuriku

First-class rivers under the control of Hokuriku Regional Bureau

 Ara River   Shinano River  Joganji River   Jinzu River 10

 Sho River  Chubu

Rivers that flow into the :

 Agano  Jinzu  Shinano  Sho  Seki  Oyabe  Hime  Tedori  Kurobe  Kuzuryu  Joganji

Rivers that flow into the Pacific Ocean:

 Fuji  Shonai  Abe  Kiso  Oi  Nagara  Tenryu  Ibi  Toyo  Kushida  Yahagi Miya

First class rivers under control of Chubu Regional Bureau

 Kano  Shonai  Abe  Kiso  Oi  Suzuka  Kiku  Kumozu  Tenryu  Kushida  Toyo  Miya  Yahagi Shikoku

First class rivers under control of Shikoku Regional Bureau

 Yoshino  Hiji ja  Naka  Monobe  Doki  Niyodo  Shigenobu  Shimanto

Kansai

The first class rivers under the control of Kinki Regional Bureau

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 Kuzuryu  Yamato  Kita  Maruyama  Yura ja:  Kako  Yodo  Ibo  Yasu  Ki-no  Katsura  Yamato  Kamo  Kumano  Kizu  The second class river  Doton-bori  Muko

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Economic Activities

With the industrialization of Japan in the 19th century came the development of the so-called 'dual structure' (niju kozo). Large corporations provided lifetime employment, seniority wage systems and company-based unions to create stable working conditions which would attract the best employees. These corporations thrived by utilizing small and medium-sized companies in the zaibatsu or financial and industrial combines. An entire zaibatsu was under the control of the family running the parent holding company. The big four zaibatsu were Mitsui, Mitsubishi,Sumitomo and Yasuda, names still prominent today. Others include Nissan,Nomura and Furukawa (which included today's Fujitsu Ltd). Price discrimination against outside companies was common practice. They also exercised a lot of political influence through cash payment to parties and politicians. The smaller companies were at the mercy of the parent corporations and therefore less stable and attractive to employees. They tended to hire more women and unskilled workers, including foreigners. This trend continues to play a part in the Japanese economy.

Following World War II, holding companies and the zaibatsu system were abolished but companies remained loosely affiliated in keiretsu business groupings. As corporate funds came more from bank loans than shareholder equity, the kinyu keiretsu (a group of companies supported by the same bank; for example, the Sumitomo keiretsu) remained powerful, although lending between different keiretsu was much more common than under the old system. Following the Occupation(1945~52) and the Korean War (1950~53), Japan entered a period of unprecedented economic growth, known as the 'economic miracle'. By 1968, Japan had passed West Germany to become the No.2 market economy in the world. The government concentrated on developing, in turn, the textile, steel, shipbuilding, chemical and automobile industries. Factors such as the oil crises of 1973 and 1978, privitisation of the railways and telecommunications systems in the 80's and strengthening of the yen against the dollar affected the economy to varying degrees but it remained strong until the early 90's. Heavy foreign investment peaked at the end of the 80's with such prominent purchases as the Rockefeller Center in New York, CBS Records and Columbia Pictures.

Radical social changes also took place. Between 1950 and 1970, the number of people living in cities increased from 38 to 72 percent. Pollution became a serious problem that was largely ignored until the late 1960's. Universal social welfare was only introduced in 1970. But despite the changes and economic growth, the distribution of income remained even and no underclass developed.

The changing economic dynamics and deregulation of the 90's have had a profound effect on the financial system in Japan as well as distribution and employment trends. The discovery of payments by banks and securities firms to corporate racketeers forced regulators to impose severe punishments and led to the collapse of Yamaichi Securities, one of the 'Big Four' securities companies, in the mid-90's.

Major banks merged, went bankrupt or were bought by foreign companies. Late 2000 - early 2001 saw the formation of four so-called 'megabank' groups. Mizuho Holdings, Sumitomo Mitsui Banking Corp, United Financial of Japan

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(UFJ) Group Holdings, and Mitsubishi-Tokyo Financial Group. UFJ and MTFG later merged to form MTUFG, meaning Japan's financial base was now built on three major banking groups.

Foreign businesses and investment have become more and more prominent, such as the partnership between Nissan and Renault or the acquisition of the Long-Term Credit (now Shinsei Bank) by Ripplewood Holdings. Deregulation allowed insurance companies, for example, to move into areas previously closed to them and encouraged increased competition. One of the most surprising developments has been the alignment of companies from previously exclusive keiretsu groups. More and more people are doing part-time work, changing jobs or starting their own companies. Unemployment figures have become an object of concern but even the record high unemployment rate of 4.9 percent in 1999 was relatively low, given that the economy had been weak for a decade. A major problem for the future, and one that is shared by other developed countries, is Japan's rapidly aging population.

The last couple of years have a seen a few tentative signs of an economic recovery. Land prices in some areas, especially the major city centers, have shown increases. Employment has crept back up, though Japan now has a whole new "underclass" of part-time workers, described with words such as "arubaito" and "freeter".

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Social and Cultural Activities

Dress

The Japanese kimono is one of the world's instantly recognizable traditional garments. The word kimono literally means "", and up until the mid 19th century it was the form of dress worn by everyone in Japan. That began to change slowly with the import of suits dresses and other western fashions during the Meiji Era. Thanks to the popularity of ukiyo-e woodblock prints in the West at the beginning of the last century, the kimono-clad maiden became one of the quintessential images of Japan. Dressing up in the kimono and other accoutrements of the or maiko is still one of the more popular activities for visiting tourists.

There are different types of kimono for different occasions and seasons, including those worn by men. Other than those worn daily by some older people or performers of traditional arts, kimono are a much less common sight these days but are still widely worn on special occasions such as weddings (left) and graduation ceremonies. Part of the reason is the cost, as a decent silk kimono will set you back the best part of a million yen. But there is also the question of how to put on the kimono and tie the (decorative sash), a complicated procedure that is beyond the ability of many young women. They usually have to ask their mothers to help them or take course at a kimono school.

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Footwear

Traditional Japanese is not seen that often these days as is usually only worn with other traditional clothing. Zori are made from rice straw or lacquered wood and are worn with a kimono for formal occasions. are raised wooden that are worn with the informal . Geta are most often seen these days on the feet of sumo wrestlers. You will most likely hear them before you see them as they make a distinctive clacking noise as the wearer walks. This is sometimes mentioned as one of the sounds that older Japanese miss most in modern life. You may see the occasional buddhist monk wearing wearing waraji, sandals made from straw rope that in the past were the standard footwear of the common people. All three designs allow for free circulation of air around the feet, a feature that probably came about because of Japan's humid climate.

Traditional Japanese footwear.

From left to right: Geta, waraji and zori.

As in many other areas of life, the fashion of the early Japanese nobility was greatly influenced by Chinese culture and so they wore or . Geta and zori originated in the Heian Period (794-1192) a time which saw the evolution of a more "native" culture. Geta are made from a flat piece of wood on two slats (called ha, or teeth) that raise the sole part 4-5cm off the ground. This is enough to keep a kimono from getting dirty, though ashida (rain shoes) have slats about 10cm high. Some chefs even wear geta with ha that are up to 17cm high. These "platform" shoes were reincarnated in a brief late-90s fashion trend, where young girls could be seen staggering around on atsuzoku (thick heels).

Buy jika or zori sandals in our Japan Store.

Both geta and zori are held on the feet by a hanao (thong), which is usually black for men and red for women. Zori are usually worn with white, split-toe cotton called tabi. Tabi are the footwear of choice for people taking part in the many matsuri (festivals) across Japan. Construction workers, who can be seen in brightly colored overalls with very baggy trousers, often wear jika tabi, cotton tabi shoes or boots with rubber soles. This form of footwear is not

16 only distinctive but extremely comfortable, lightweight and practical. The durability and unique design of jika tabi has made them a popular export and one of the most popular items in our Japan Store.

Young girls (kogyaru) are Japan's true trend-setters these days, though their taste is often very questionable. Platform heels (atsuzoku) were one of the must-have items of the late 90s.

While traditional Japanese dress has been largely replaced with western clothing, some of its customs still survive intact. The most common is the practice of removing one's shoes when entering someone's home. The custom is a combination of cleanliness and the fact that traditional flooring is made from , straw matting that is easily damaged by footwear. There is a story of the first American consul to Japan, Townsend Harris getting off to a bad start with his hosts by walking straight into the shogun's presence in Castle without removing his shoes.

While geta have become pretty rare, the cupboard in every home's genkan (entrance hallway) is still called a getabako (geta box). When you enter the genkan, you must remove your shoes and the formal etiquette is to leave them neatly aligned and to the side, facing inwards. The host turns them around and puts them in the center before you leave. Younger people tend not to worry about these finer details anymore. But when entering shrine or temple buildings and many Japanese-style restaurants, you will be expected to remove your shoes. Many restaurants and homes provide for guests, though these should be removed when entering a room with tatami mat flooring. Also, there will be a separate pair of slippers to be changed into in the toilet.

The Japanese have a very deep-rooted though largely unspoken understanding of the difference between spaces. The genkan is a kind of border post post between the outside world and the inner sanctum of the home. Delivery men may quite casually step into your genkan but that's as far as they'll go without you inviting them in. There is almost always a step up into the home and the Japanese word for entering a home is literally to "step up". Even when entering your own home (uchi, meaning inside), the act of removing your shoes is symbolic of casting off the worries and troubles as well as the dirt of the outside world (soto). "Dosoku de agarikomu" (literally, go inside with soiled feet) is a metaphor for meddling thoughtlessly in someone else's affairs.

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Food

The typical Japanese meal consists of a bowl of rice (gohan), a bowl of soup (miso shiru), pickled vegetables () and fish or meat. While rice is the staple food, several kinds of noodles (, and ) are cheap and very popular for light meals. As an island nation, the Japanese take great pride in their seafood. A wide variety of fish, squid, octopus, eel, and shellfish appear in all kinds of dishes from sushi to .

A decorative sushi selection

Rice Sticky, short-grained rice is the staple food in Japan. Uncooked rice is called kome. The cultivation of rice in paddy fields traditionally required great cooperation between villagers and this is said to have been central to the evolution of Japanese culture. Their are several thousand varieties grown in Japan, with Koshihikari and Akita Komachi being among the most popular. Rice is also used to make (rice cakes), (rice crackers) and (rice wine). Rice can also be cooked with red beans (sekihan), seafood and vegetables (Takikomi gohan) or as a kind of watery porridge seasoned with salt (kayu) which is very popular as a cold remedy. are rice balls with seafood or vegetables in the middle, usually wrapped in a piece of dried seaweed (). They are traditionally part of a packed lunch or picnic. Individually wrapped onigiri, usually a trianular shape, make a good snack and are available at convenience stores.

Noodles - Udon and soba Udon noodles are made from wheat flour. They are boiled and served in a broth, usually hot but occasionally cold in summer, and topped with ingredients such as a raw egg to make tsukimi udon, and deep-fried aburaage to make kitsune udon. Soba is buckwheat noodles, which are thinner and a darker color than udon. Soba is usually served cold (zaru soba) with a dipping sauce, sliced green onions and . When served in a hot broth, it is known as kake soba. Served with the same toppings as udon, you get tsukimi soba, kitsune soba and tempura soba.

Noodles - Ramen While udon and soba are also believed to have come from China, only ramen retains its image as Chinese food. Ramen is thin egg noodles which are almost always served in a hot broth flavored with shoyu or miso. This is topped with a variety of ingredients such as slices of roast pork (chashu), bean sprouts (moyashi), sweetcorn and butter. Ramen is popular throughout Japan and different regions are known for their variations on the theme. Examples are Corn-butter Ramen in Sapporo and in Kyushu. Instant ramen (the most famous brand is Pot Noodles), to which you just add hot water, has become very popular in recent years

Seafood & Meat Japanese people consume a lot more fish than is typical in western countries and this is said to be a major factor in the country's relatively low rate of heart disease. Seafood is eaten in just about any form you can imagine, from raw sushi and to grilled sweetfish and clams. The spread of ¥100 kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants

18 has made sushi into a homegrown fast-food that offsets some of the influence of imports like McDonalds.Many people are surprised to learn that meat consumption was illegal in Japan until the ban was lifted during the in the 1870s. As the country opened up to western culture, eating habits also began to change. Now meat is increasingly part of the everyday Japanese diet, with (grilled chicken), (Korean barbeque), gyudon (beef bowl) and of course the standard fare of foreign and local hamburger chain restaurants ubiquitous across the country. This has led to an increase in related health problems, though the Japanese still maintain their position as the world's longest-living people.

Annual Events

Although the word matsuri is always translated as 'festival', some festivals and holidays are more correctly included in the nenchu gyoji or annual events originally observed by the Imperial court. These observances are mostly of Chinese or Buddhist origin but as most Japanese don't really consider their religious significance, they also don't distinguish them from matsuri. The dates of some holidays, such as Adult's Day in January, have been moved to a fixed Monday in order to have guaranteed three-day weekends. The government made some changes in 2000 in an effort to stimulate the sluggish economy. Some of the more important days are: New Year's Day, Adult's Day (Seijin no Hi), Doll Festival (Hina Matsuri) on March 3rd, Golden Week in May, (Obon) on July 13-15th (August in some areas) and New Year's Eve. The birthday of the current emperor is always a national holiday, as is the birthday of the late Emperor Showa.

Boy in traditional matsuri costume Koinobori in Wajima, Mother and daughter at Shichi-go- san

The New Year and Obon are the biggest events in the annual calendar. Families are expected to gather at the family home - no matter how scattered the members may be - to honour their ancestors. On the night of New Year's Eve or the next day, they visit their local shrine (in Tokyo, the number of visitors to Meiji Shrine alone is in the millions). But there are usually no wild New Year countdown celebrations. In recent years, Christmas has become a big - at least in the commercial sense - event. Couples usually try to get together for a date on Christmas Eve.

At Obon, the souls of the dead are said to return and so people visit and clean the family grave and light a path to the house. Although Obon is traditionally in July, most people take their annual summer 'Obon' vacation in August, making it the busiest and most expensive holiday season.

Seijin no Hi celebrates people coming of age at 20. On the second Monday of January (until 2000, it was January 15th), 20-year olds dress up and visit a shrine or attend a municipal ceremony to honour their reaching adulthood. It is a good opportunity to see hordes of young people in their finest traditional dress. Many young men wear kimono too but the majority tend to go for

19 suits these days. Recent years have seen the day often marred by rowdy behavior and a general lack of respect for the formal aspects of the day.

Setsubun on February 3rd or 4th marks the beginning of spring. The word literally means "the spliting of the seasons". People throw beans at someone wearing a mask and representing a demon and chant 'Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi' or 'Out with the demons, in with good luck!' Often celebrities visit major shrines to throw out beans and other goodies to large crowds.

The focal point for the Hina Matsuri or Doll Festival is a display of dolls representing the emperor, empress and their court in formal dress. Most homes with young girls will have a display, from simple dolls and cards to elaborate setups costing hundreds of thousands of yen. Children's Day is actually a celebration for boys, corresponding to the Doll Festival for girls. Warrior dolls or mock armor are displyed and koinobori or carp streamers are flown by families with boys (the carp is considered a symbol of success). On both days a special meal is eaten. Children's Day falls during the Golden Week holiday, which along with New Year and Obon is one of the busiest holiday periods throughout the country, with millions of Japanese also traveling abroad. .

7-5-3 Festival (Shichi-go-san) on November 15th, 7 and 3-year old girls and 5-year old boys (Shichi-go-san is Japanese for the numbers 7,5 and 3) are dressed up in their best kimono - although these days suits are more common for the boys - and brought to the shrine to pray for their future. Originally, this ritual was based on the fact that Japanese believe certain ages to be prone to bad luck. Children were not considered fully formed until age seven. This event is also one of several times a year when photo studios make their biggest profits as parents and grandparents splash out lots of money for family albums.

Annual Events

Of course everyone has heard of Valentine's Day, and it's as big a deal here in Japan as anywhere else. Everyone loves receiving gifts like a dozen roses for Valentine's Day, right? Indeed it's a rare chance for the notoriously reserved Japanese people to show a bit of love. But how many of you know about White Day? No, it has nothing to do with racial pride or laundry detergent.

It's exactly one month after Valentine's Day and the two are a pair. In Japan, the Valentine's Day tradition is for girls and women to give gifts (usually chocolate or cookies) to the boyfriends, husbands, fathers, teachers, bosses, co-workers, guys they pass on the street...no, wait, it's not quite that extreme. But the concept of "giri-choco", or giving chocolates out of duty rather than love is common though not something most women really feel like doing. If the gift is to be seen as really heartfelt, it needs to be handmade. So department stores will do a brisk trade in the various ingredients needed to make chocolate confectionaries. With all the romantic hype in stores and the media, as well as the pressure of giri- choco, a guy who gets no chocolates on Valentine's Day is entitled to feel like something is seriously wrong with not just his social life but also his workplace.

Anyway, for the ladies the pay-off comes a month later on March 14, when it's the guys' turn to give something back. With the name White Day, I suppose the gift should be something white, and the only "tradition" I have heard regularly is that it was white lingerie. But I can't imagine that actually happens so often except between particularly romantic couples. The other rule, called "sanbai- gaeshiin," is that the guys are supposed to give a gift worth three times the value of what they received a month earlier (oh right, that's fair!). And certainly it's common to hear high school girls saying they give a couple of hundred yen's worth of giri-choco to their Dads only with the ulterior motive of getting a Gucci bag or something similarly extravagant in return. Such is the materialism of today's Japanese youth! But the most common gifts semm to be chocolates,

20 cookies and flowers, all the way up to jewelry and those expensive accessories that many ladies hope for and hint at but don't ask for outright.

White Day, as you have probably already guessed, is a creation of marketing minds rather than anything remotely traditional. Though some sources talk about similar ideas in the mid-1960s, it's popularity only dates back to the early 1980's and so it doesn't have quite the marketing punch of its February partner. But if you got something from a young lady last week, you might want to consider the consequences of not giving something back...

The full list of national holidays is as follows:

January 1 - New Year's Day (Ganjitsu) The second Monday in January - Adult's Day (Seijin-no hi) February 11 - National Founding Day (Kenkoku Kinen-no hi) March 20 or 21 - Vernal Equinox (Shunbun-no hi) April 29 - Showa Day (Showa-no hi) May 3 - Constitution Memorial Day (Kenpou Kinenbi) May 4 - Greenery Day (Midori-no hi) May 5 - Children's Day (Kodomo-no hi) The third Monday in July - Marine Day (Umi-no hi) The third Monday in September - Respect-for-the-Aged Day (Keirou-no hi) September 23 or 24 - Autumnal Equinox (Shuubun-no hi) The second Monday in October - Health/Sports Day (Taiiku-no hi) November 3 - Culture Day (Bunka-no hi) November 23 - Labor Thanksgiving Day (Kinrou Kansha-no hi) December 23 - Emperor's Birthday (Tennou Tanjoubi)

When a national holiday falls on Sunday, the next Monday becomes a holiday.

Festivals Every city, town and village in Japan has at least one matsuri (festival) a year. Matsuri fall into two broad categories - smaller matsuri in rural areas, usually held in spring or autumn and based around the rice-growing cycle; and extravagant matsuri held in large towns or cities, often in summer and with a lot of interpersonal activity. In the post-war period this division has become more pronounced with the big matsuri becoming 'events' and attracting TV cameras and tourists from around the country and the world. Matsuri have their origins in ancient rituals and beliefs. Important elements include purification, offerings to the gods - such as rice, sake or fruit - and contests or games held on the day. The latter can get out of hand, even to the point of violence, but this is considered part of letting one's hair down for the day. Most community matsuri have omikoshi, or portable shrines which are carried from house to house or shop to shop to bestow good fortune on all.

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For the foreign visitor, a chance encounter with a small, local matsuri can be a good time to get some nice, intimate photos. But the big festivals are always full of spectacle and sure to provide some exciting photo opportunities. Some of the highlights are:

Nebuta Matsuri

Sanja Matsuri

Awa Odori

Sapporo Snow Festival (Yuki Matsuri) - early February. Odori Park in Sapporo is the venue for an incredible array of huge and elaborate snow and ice sculptures. The festival is a major tourist attraction that brings millions of visitors from across Japan and abroad.

Kamakura Festival - February 15-16th. In Yokote City, , children buildkamakura - small igloos with an altar to the Shinto water gods.

Hakata Dontaku Festival - May 3-4. Citizens dressed as the Seven Deities of Good Fortune parade the streets of the hakata district of .

Kanda Festival - mid-May (every odd-numbered year). Alternates with the Sanno Festival. About 200 omikoshi are paraded to honour the deities of the Kanda Shrine in Tokyo.

Sanja Festival - third weekend of May. About 100 omikoshi are paraded through the streets around Shrine in Tokyo. There are also many geisha and other costumed participants.

Sanno Festival - June 10-16th (every even-numbered year). Alternates with the Kanda Festival. Honours the deities of the Hie Shrine in Tokyo. The main festival day is June 15.

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival - July 1-15th. A major festival that welcomes the arrival of summer in the southern city of Fukuoka sees colorful kazari-yamakasa floats paraded through the streets. Huge excitement is generated when the kaki- yamakasa are raced in the Oiyama on the final day. The festival dates back to the 13th century when a priest was carried through the city spraying holy water along the way to rid the city of an epidemic.

Tanabata Festival on July or August 7th was originally a celebration based on a Chinese legend. The stars representing the Weaver Princess (Vega) and the Cowherd (Altair) were lovers who could only meet on the seventh day of the seventh month of

22 the lunar calendar. Its proximity to Obon meant that it became neglected in some areas but adopted by others. Sendai, for example, has a famous Tanabata Festival on August 7th.

Gion Festival - July 17th. The most significant festival in Japan. The most famous Gion Matsuri is the one sponsored by the in Kyoto. Actually this is a one-month festival which reaches a climax on the 17th when there is a parade of giant wheeled floats called hoko or spears. These represent 66 tall spears erected in 869 in Kyoto as part of a ritual to protect the city from an epidemic. Each hoko carries a band of musicians who play a kind of music called gion-bayashi. Smalleryama or mountain floats carry life-size figures of famous people.

Tenjin Festival - July 24-25th. Together with Kyoto's Gion Matsuri and Tokyo's Kanda Matsuri, this festival in Osaka is considered one of the "big three" in Japan. It is thought to date back to the mid 10th century. The main events take place in the evening on the Okawa River, involving about 100 boats and with a fireworks display providing a spectacular backdrop.

Aomori Nebuta Festival - August 1-7th. Giant floats are paraded through the city of Aomori in the evening with musical accompaniment. On top of the floats are colorful, illuminated papier- nebuta, figures of warriors, actors or other famous people. On the last night, the nebuta are cast out to sea. This reflects the festival's origins whereby people threw paper images into the river to cast out fatigue, illness or bad luck - anything that might interfere with a successful harvest.

Awa Dance (Awa Odori) - August 12-15th. In the city of , groups of dancers follow a route along the main streets doing a variation on the Bon Odori. There is also a smaller version of the dance in Nakano, Tokyo.

Nagasaki Suwa - October 7-9. Also known as O-kunchi, this festival features dragon dances and umbrella-topped floats.

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Japanese Flag

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Government

The Diet building in Tokyo

The current Japanese constitution was promulgated in the year 1946 during the occupation by the Allied powers:

Legislature: The Japanese parliament is called the Diet. It consists of the House of Representatives (480 members) and the House of Councillors (242 members). The members of the Diet are elected by the Japanese people.

Executive: The cabinet is headed by the Prime Minister. The cabinet further consists of the ministers which are appointed by the prime minister and are usually members of the Diet. The prime minister is elected by the Diet.

Judiciary: The highest court is the Supreme Court. Other courts are district courts, high courts, family courts, and summary courts. Judges are appointed by the cabinet.

Elections: The minimum voting age is 20 years. Women received the right to vote in the new constitution. Elections for the House of Representatives are carried out every four years, and half of the House of Councillors is elected every three years. Beside the national elections there are prefectural and municipal elections.

The Emperor does not have any effective power but is only the symbol of the state.

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