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Home , Atlantic puffin, Calf of Man, Eurasian whimbrel, Eurasian wren

WILD & ANCIENT BRITAIN WITH ABOARD THE OCEAN ADVENTURER

MAY 3–18, 2019

The penguin of the northern seas, the iconic Atlantic , love at Staffa – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

LEADER : ANDREW WHITTAKER LIST COMPILED BY : ANDREW WHITTAKER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS , INC . 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE , SUITE 1003 AUSTIN , TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD .COM

WILD & ANCIENT BRITAIN WITH IRELAND Aboard the Ocean Adventurer

May 3–18, 2019

By Andrew Whittaker

For countless millions of years, the coasts of Britain and Ireland have been shaped by erosion into some of the most spectacular and breathtaking coastal scenery on our planet. Packed full of amazing wildlife sights, these ancient lands are simply brimming with history, too. We enjoyed a fantastic two- week cruise exploring these divine islands on the magnificent Ocean Adventurer . We all quickly found ourselves falling in love with the spectacular and Irish coastline in all its spring glory, from its towering sheer cliffs, immense granite stacks home to thousands of , and visiting remote islands carpeted in bluebells, to the intense golden flowering gauze and so many historical wonders. Delving back into its rich history and culture, we visited beautiful subtropical gardens ablaze with blossoms and enjoyed almost perfect weather conditions. This, combined with an exceptional ship crew and fantastic cuisine, made for the cruise of a lifetime. We all left the UK with so many unforgettable highlights to take home with us and cherish forever!

A picture-perfect morning on the uninhabited Island of Staffa where we enjoyed gorgeous views and carpets of Thrift (Sea Pink) and a great Zodiac cruise – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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Our exciting trip began in colorful London from our classic well-positioned hotel outside the famous Paddington Railway Station (sadly, no Paddington was spotted). Nearby Hyde Park provided many of us with a wonderful chance for a pre-tour walk and a great introduction to the common of the UK including Great Crested Grebe, Tufted Duck, and exotics such as the lovely Rose- ringed Parakeet.

A smart male Tufted Duck graced the nearby lakes of Hyde Park -Photo: Andrew Whittaker

After a wonderful full English breakfast, we headed out through London by coach to Portsmouth. On the way we stopped at one of the most famous landmarks of (a World Heritage Site) to explore the ring of standing stones of Stonehenge constructed from 3,000 BC to 2,000 BC. Some were even graced by a soaring Red Kite over the bus! After a great lunch we enjoyed a visit to the immense Salisbury Cathedral. M idafternoon we arrived into Portsmouth harbor where we embarked the magnificent Ocean Adventurer, our home for two spectacular weeks of being treated like kings and enjoying many fabulous meals on board.

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Our luxury home for two weeks, the magnificent Ocean Adventurer – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

The following morning, we awoke arriving into the port of Falmouth. An enjoyable day-trip started off in the wonderfully lush and -rich Cornish Gardens of Trebah with their spectacular rhododendron show and great forest trails through lovely mature forest down to the beach. Highlights included great looks at Eurasian Jay; Common Buzzard; the very tame and extremely popular ; Blue, Long-tailed, and Great Tits; and two minute , the Eurasian and a very confiding and colorful .

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A very friendly European Robin, a group favorite – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

We returned the short distance to the Adventurer for a great lunch on board, followed by an interesting afternoon visit to the futuristic Eden Project, visiting its two distinct biomes, the Humid Rainforest and the drier Mediterranean—housed in two immense steel frames made up of hundreds or thousands of hexagonal and pentagonal inflated plastic cells. We enjoyed the exotic vegetation within as well, admiring a wonderful flower show in both.

On our second morning of the cruise we disembarked on a glorious morning at the lovely Scilly Isle on Tresco (a most famous UK birding spot) and were greeted by a flock of Eurasian Whimbrels.

Greeted to Scilly Isles by a flock of Eurasian Whimbrels, recently split from your dark rumped – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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What a magnificent location for our introduction to the UK avifauna. We had exceptional studies of many neat birds, including some amazingly confiding individual Song Thrush, White Wagtail, and European Blackbird. Migrants included Western Marsh Harrier, Whinchat, , Reed Warbler, Blackcap, resident Eurasian Stonechat, Great Tit, Common Greenshank, Pochard, and a lovely pair of Red-legged Partridges. Some very lucky folks saw a magnificent introduced male Golden Pheasant, and we all enjoyed the beautiful and cute Red Squirrel at the feeders.

We enjoyed the antics of cute Red Squirrels – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Flowers were at their peak, both in spectacular ornamental sub-tropical gardens as well as the glorious wildflowers, leaving many islands in a wash of brilliant colors, from carpets of deep blue Bluebells to pink cliffs dappled with Sea Pink and lush green banks lightly covered with the lovely yellow hues of Wild Primroses. This afternoon we enjoyed a very interesting lecture and observing birds and up on deck as we set sail towards Ireland and Kerry.

Shuttled by our Zodiacs, we disembarked in the lovely community of Ballinskelligs, one of the few remaining Irish speaking areas still left. The village traces its origins back to the Monks in the fifth or sixth century who made their home on the nearby Skelligs Rock. Birding this morning was a joy with a lovely walk rewarding us with , a great look at a rarely seen skulky Common Grasshopper Warbler (that taped in so close), Greater Whitethroat, Sedge Warbler, Reed Bunting, breeding Common Ringed Plover, and lovely summer plumaged Sanderling and Common Loon. We also visited the Abbey and some the castle, and we heard about the first trans-Atlantic cable, which was connected with the USA in 1864!

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We enjoyed great looks at a rarely seen Common Grasshopper Warbler – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

On our way east after lunch we steamed past the famous towering sea crags of Little Skellig and its tremendous colony of Northern Gannets (the largest in the world). The islands’ colossal stacks were crammed with countless thousands of Northern Gannets, which were spectacular, showing off their orange/yellow-hued heads. Skelling Michael was equally amazing, as this remote place was once home to ascetic monks in pursuit of greater union with god. Amazingly, a monastery was founded on this precipitous rock sometime between the sixth and eighth centuries. Now it’s home to seabirds, but sadly our landing permission for this World Heritage Site had been blocked at the last minute. This afternoon was spent sailing through these incredibly rich Irish waters for those on deck (and not at the interesting World War II lecture).

Our countless encounters with thousands of Northern Gannets were a trip favorite, showing off their orange/yellow-hued heads – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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A real trip highlight is always our trip to the private island of Great Saltee Island with its lush hills cloaked in fine carpets of Bluebells, its superb close Northern Gannet colony, and our first of many encounters with cute Atlantic . Cliff ledges were jam-packed full with Common Murres, , and a few Shags too (what incredible emerald eyes); we also got our first studies of the odd Red-billed Chough and enjoyed a fallout of Spotted Flycatchers.

The wonderful island of Great Saltee, Ireland allowed fantastic studies at close range of both and – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Our next stop, the , was on a rather wet and cold morning. Some went to enjoy a cultural trip to , Nautical Museum, Abbey, and we all took a ride on the Victorian Railway in a small gauge steam train ride and, for the brave amongst us, some great ice cream too! The birders enjoyed a wet, cold walk at Sandwick across the golf course before retreating to take hot drinks and cakes.

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Group birding in lovely afternoon sun on the Calf of Man - Photo: Andrew Whittaker

In the afternoon, in such contrasting weather—sunny and calm (almost hot)—we got off shore to visit the Calf of Man Bird Observatory where we enjoyed with the wardens the day to day working of an observatory. We were shown at first hand the banding (ringing) of the migrant birds, the different capture methods from mist nets to traps, and a Northern Wheatear being ringed. Birding highlights were a wonderful migrant Short-eared Owl, female Hen Harrier, Greater Whitethroat, stunning Eurasian Goldfinch, Linnet, and lots of smart common Eiders, plus a glorious walk to the top of the island.

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The odd but striking Red-billed Chough gave us great looks– Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Next up was the geologist’s Holy Grail. We departed this morning from Portrush, Northern Island for our bus trip to the World Heritage Site at the remarkable Giant Causeway with its immense iconic and spectacular 40,000 complex hexagonal basalt columns. On our walk down we enjoyed close studies of singing Sedge Warblers and , while Rock Pipits and White Wagtails walked amongst the rocky beach. Thankfully, no angry giants were heard or seen; what a great story! This afternoon we visited Lagavulin Whisky Distillery and enjoyed a wee dram of this strong peaty single malt on the lovely Scottish Isle of Islay. Some also enjoyed birding around this idyllic location on a fantastic sunny afternoon.

The common but very colorful Eurasian Blue Tit – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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Bonnie the next day again came up trumps as our stop on the amazing island of Staffa was as good for geology as birds. Voted the best Zodiac trip of the cruise, we enjoyed more stunning hexagonal basalt structures and were able to enter by water the famous Fingal’s Cave (which inspired Mendelssohn to write his Hebridean Overture ) and the magnificent steep cliffs on a sunny windless day. Our highlight of walking on the isle provided the best show you can ever hope to see! Common Snipe were everywhere drumming, and we even found our first Black and Great . Wonderful songsters such as the Skylark greeted us, and those on the long walk had our first Pink-rumped Twite and Graylag Geese, as well as several pairs of nesting Lesser Black-backed .

Nobody could get enough of the delightful Atlantic Puffins - Photo: Andrew Whittaker

I have always had a soft spot for the picturesque isle of Iona where history mixes with nature, from the lovely historic abbey to its iconic bird of the yellow flag irises, the amazing Corncrake. A grass rail and an extremely secretive species, spending most of its time hidden in tall vegetation, its presence is often betrayed only by its distinct rasping call. Amazingly, it’s a strong summer migrant to these isles, wintering in sub-Sharan ! Well, they had just arrived, sadly, so despite a lot of work we all managed to just hear the odd rasping call this year.

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A cool moment captured a group of Bottle–nosed Dolphins following the Zodiac close to Iona – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Next up was Britain’s most remote island, Saint Kilda, famous for the UK’s highest cliffs and evacuated in 1930 due to health reasons and the First World War, and now a World Heritage Site. Seabirds of many species were the island’s primary food, including even the famous Great ! Sadly, the last was recorded in June of 1840, when three sailors landed on the craggy ledges of a nearby sea stack, known as Stac-an-Armin, caught it alive, and tied it up. However, thinking it had brought them bad luck (due to a terrible storm), which meant they were trapped on the islet, they finally stoned it to death! This was one of the last of its species and sadly, finally on July 3, 1844, off on the island of Eldey, the fate of the last known pair by fishermen ended in them strangling and their stood on, and this magnificent species became extinct! We landed on this gem of an island and enjoyed a great look around with superb views of the endemic (as yet to be split) Saint Kilda Wren, and even a neat lost migrant in the form of a Scandinavian blue headed male Yellow Wagtail, as well as a Rook (rare here) and several late migrant Northern Wheatears, along with breeding birds.

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A distinct Scandinavian form of a lovely male Yellow Wagtail – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

The next day we awoke arriving into Kirkwall on the Isles. Here we enjoyed the treasures of Orkney, visiting Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, and the lovely Saint Magnus Cathedral. At the new RSPB reserve by the standing stones were displaying Eurasian , Common Redshank, and Northern Lapwing. A nearby lake close to our ship produced wonderful looks at a stunning Long-tailed Duck in full breeding plumage.

A very smart breeding plumaged male Long-tailed Duck – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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From here we continued through the night onto our next exciting port of call, the famous Isles. Morning found us on the remote isle of Moussa, exploring its amazing well-kept Iron Age Broch, this year home to some confiding breeding Black .

The famous Iron Age Broch on the Isle of Moussa was home to – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

We managed to find (under a wall) and hear the sweet bubbling songs of some singing British Storm- Petrels now incubating in their secret cavity, only coming in to swap on the nest in pitch darkness to avoid the gulls and skua . These really are true mystical pelagics. We also enjoyed a really smart breeding plumaged Red-throated Diver and super cool displaying Arctic Terns, as well as nesting Eurasian Shag. On our afternoon bus trip from Jarlshof we visited Sumburgh head cliffs and RSPB bird reserve and its lighthouse, the highlight being thousands of seabirds on their spectacular sheer breeding cliffs and a wonderful tame Twite.

We finished off our last day by landing on the bonny Island of south of the , well known for its high quality woollen knitwear. I had, in fact, made this my home way back in 1986 when I was assistant warden at the famous bird observatory. We all enjoyed a great exploration of the island, which always brings up trumps such as a magnificent male Bluethroat seen well by lucky Sam, a good spring rarity here. However, the sad sight of the burned shell of the observatory was quickly forgotten as we found a migrant cuckoo that proceeded to give us great views. The observatory warden kindly showed us bird trapping at a Helgoland trap, and being able to compare Great versus Lesser Whitethroats in the hand was special. We also enjoyed wonderful studies of breeding Great and Parasitic Jaegers of the two color morphs. The seaweed strewn inlets were home to some exquisite breeding plumaged , and we found a late Redwing too. A welcome tea, scones, and cake were served in the island’s community hall, along with a lovely display of their famous nightwear. We steamed on through the night to the Scottish east coast arriving in early morning on the east coast at Aberdeen.

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A migrant was a gem on Fair Isle – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

For our last day we enjoyed a bus trip to Edinburgh, stopping on the way to enjoy a wonderful lunch at the famous Saint John’s Golf course after enjoying a visit to Saint Andrews Castle with its historic tales and lovely wooded grounds, which were, as usual, rather birdy. Highlights included Eurasian Treecreeper, Coal Tit, and even a Tawny Owl for some. While along the coast we were amazed by huge rafts of Common Eiders and a colony of Bank Swallows too. Finally, after an action-packed day, late afternoon we arrived at our lovely hotel in the famous city of Edinburgh, where we had time to wander the streets before another fine dinner.

Northern Fulmar gave us a warm farewell as flocks followed the boat (within feet of us) on our final evening during our Captain’s scrumptious farewell dinner – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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We were all extremely privileged to see the best of the British Isles coast in all its spring glory from the mild southern English Scilly Isles, Ireland, and, of course, bonnie Scotland, all wrapped up in one fantastic cruise! This certainly was a very special voyage, visiting many remarkable places, thanks to the expert guidance and interesting lectures from our excellent team of Zegrahm leaders. Our superb ship and its wonderful crew and compatible group of traveling companions became a friendly and happy base for a truly memorable trip: great birding typified by immense numbers of seabirds and exciting “changes in tempo and destinations” and localized breeding birds, interesting migrants (always the chance of a mega rarity too), combined with phenomenal, world- class historical sites and a permanent backdrop of breathtaking UK scenery.

All too soon we had to say our fond farewells to the crew and ship and transfer to the Edinburgh airport for our homebound flights.

What a great pleasure it was for me to be fortunate enough to travel with all of you. Many thanks for your great friendship and a truly memorable cruise! I look forward to sharing with you all again some mega birding on yet another exciting VENT trip to some exotic destination. Meanwhile, happy birding!

Ever so cute Soya Sheep lamb found on Saint Kilda and Calf of Man – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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WILD & ANCIENT BRITAIN WITH IRELAND

Aboard the Ocean Adventurer

ITINERARY

May 3: Group departs from US to London.

May 4: Group meets at London at the London Paddington Hotel for a welcome reception and fine dinner. Some folks arrived a day or two early to enjoy London or had time to enjoy a lovely walk and bird in nearby Hyde Park.

May 5: Our exciting journey began as we headed out of London by coach onto Portsmouth. On the way we stopped at one of the most famous landmarks of England (a World Heritage Site) to explore the ring of standing stones of famous Stonehenge constructed from 3,000 BC to 2,000 BC. After lunch we enjoyed a visit to the immense Salisbury Cathedral. M idafternoon we arrived into Portsmouth harbour where we embarked the magnificent Ocean Adventurer, our home for two spectacular weeks!

May 6: From Falmouth we had an enjoyable day-trip starting off in the wonderfully lush and bird-rich Cornish Gardens of Trebah, with their spectacular rhododendron show and great forest trails through lovely mature forest down to the beach. Returning the short distance to the Adventurer for a great lunch on board. An interesting afternoon visit to the futuristic Eden Project visiting its two distinct biomes, the Humid Rainforest and the drier Mediterranean. Set sail for the Scilly Isles.

May 7: Today we disembarked on a glorious morning at the lovely Scilly Isle on Tresco (a most famous UK birding spot). Also enjoying its spectacular ornamental sub-tropical gardens. Afternoon we set sail towards Ireland and Kerry.

May 8: We disembarked in the lovely community of Ballinskelligs, one of the few remaining Irish speaking areas still left. The village traces its origins back to the monks in the fifth or sixth century who made their home on the nearby Skelligs Rock. We visited the Abbey and some the castle and heard about the first trans-Atlantic cable, which was connected with the USA in 1864!

On our way east after lunch we steamed past the famous towering sea crags of Little Skellig and its tremendous colony of Northern Gannets (the largest in the world). Skelling Michael was equally amazing, as this remote place was once home to ascetic monks in pursuit of greater union with god. Lots of dolphins off the deck and other interesting seabirds.

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Enormous Northern Gannet colony on Great Saltee Island – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

May 9: Arrive in Ireland and anchored off the private Great Saltee Islands. Full morning birding this wonderful isle sun bound with carpets of Bluebells and full of seabirds including an enormous Gannet colony. Or transfer to Dunmore East, board our coach, and visit the famous Waterford Crystal factory, or explore Mount Congreve, its estate and exquisite gardens.

May 10: This morning we got off in Port Saint Mary, Isle of Man, and split up, some enjoying a cultural trip to Cregneash, Nautical Museum, Rushen Abbey, and the Victorian Railway. While the birders enjoyed a wet walk around a nature reserve at Sandwick across the golf course down to the coast, later tea and scones and a steam train ride. A lovely sunny visit to the Calf of Man and super walk to its bird observatory.

May 11: We departed this morning from Portrush, Northern Island for our coach trip to the World Heritage Site of the remarkable Giant Causeway with its immense 40,000 complex hexagonal basalt columns. This afternoon we visited Lagavulin Whisky Distillery and enjoyed a wee dram of this strong peaty whisky on the lovely Scottish Isle of Islay, and birded too.

May 12: On the Inner we visited the incredible isle of Staffa, for geology and great birding too. Stunning hexagonal basalt structures and the famous Fingal’s Cave (which inspired Mendelssohn to write his Hebridean Overture ) and its steep cliffs made for an incredible Zodiac cruise. The afternoon spent on the picturesque Isle of Iona where history mixes with birds from the lovely abbey to its iconic bird of the yellow flag irises, the amazing Corncrake!

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May 13: Next up, Britain’s most remote island, Saint Kilda (in the chain), famous for the UK’s highest cliffs and evacuated in 1930 due to health reasons and the First World War, and now a World Heritage Site and home to the endemic Saint Kilda’s Wren.

May 14: Lovely Kirkwall on the Orkney Isles where we enjoyed the treasures of Orkney visiting Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, the stunning Saint Magnus Cathedral, mixed with birding, of course, at rich wetlands and on the nearby lake in Kirkwall.

May 15: Morning found us on Moussa and exploring its amazing Iron Age Broch, and I managed to find under a wall some singing British Storm-Petrels. Afternoon bus trip from Jarlshof; we visited Sumburgh head cliffs and RSPB bird reserve and its lighthouse.

May 16: Today we explored the bonnie Island of Fair Isle south of the Shetlands, well-known for its high quality woollen knitwear. I had, in fact, made this my home way back in 1986 when I was assistant warden at its famous bird observatory which, sadly, was recently burned down, caused by an electrical fault. The warden kindly showed us ringing birds.

May 17: For our last day we enjoyed a bus trip to Edinburgh, stopping on the way to enjoy an excursion around the Anglican Cathedral and wonderful quaint university town with a lunch at the famous Saint John’s Golf Course. In the afternoon we enjoyed a visit to Saint Andrews Castle with its lovely grounds. Birding was good in the wonderful wooded grounds too.

May 18: Depart our lovely hotel to catch homebound flights to US from Edinburgh airport.

Top seven birds elected by the group

1- Northern Fulmar 2- Atlantic Puffin 3- Northern Gannet 4- Arctic Tern 5- Yellow Wagtail 6- Northern Lapwing 7- Eurasian Robin & Razorbill & Skylark & Short-eared Owl & Black Guillemot & Common Eider & Eurasian Cuckoo

BIRDS

(I) Introduced * Only heard

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Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl (Anatidae) Greylag Goose (Anser anser) Several small flocks seen. Pin-footed Goose ( Anser brachyrhynchus ) Leader only. Canada Goose ( Branta canadense ) (I) Mute Swan ( Cygnus olor ) A great necking display of courtship on the Scillies. Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna ) Stunning birds several pairs seen well on offshore islands. Gadwall (Anas strepera) Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) Common Pochard ( Aythya ferina ) Tufted Duck ( Aythuua fuligula ) Common Eider (Somateria mollissima ) Many exceptionally stunning males seen very well. Also we all enjoyed hearing the evoking male’s coooing calls. Long-tailed Duck ( Clangula hyemalis ) A stunning fairly tame pair seen by some at Lerwick. Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator )

Pheasants & Partridges (Phasianidae) Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa ) Stunning seen by all on Tresco, Scilly Isles. Golden Pheasant ( Chrysolophus pictus ) (I) Stunning male seen incredibly well by some in the gardens. Ring-necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus ) (I) Common but lovely!

Pigeons & Doves (Columbidae) Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) (I) Stock Dove ( Columba oenas ) Seen displaying by Nubs and I Common Wood-Pigeon (Columba palumbus ) Common but a cool looker Eurasian Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decaocto )

Cuckoo (Cuculidae) Common (Eurasian) Cuckoo ( Cuculus canorus) Great studies on Fair Isle of this famous nest parasite with such an incredible breeding biology.

Swifts (Apodidae) Common Swift (Apus apus) Last day a few over Saint Andrews a late migrant from Africa

Rails, Gallinules & Coots (Rallidae) Corn Crake ( Crex crex )* Unfortunately we only heard its characteristic rasping song Eurasian (Common) Moorhen ( Gallinula chloropus ) A recent split from the North American Common Gallinule! Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)

Oystercatchers (Haematopodidae) Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus ) Wonderful close up studies.

Plovers & Lapwings (Charadriidae) Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus ) A cool looker indeed! Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula ) Nice close studies

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Sandpipers & Allies (Scolopacidae) Eurasian Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus ) Fantastic looks. Your dark rumped North American birds are now called Hudsonian Whimbrel, Numenius hudsonicus ! Also your Hudsonian Whimbrel has cinnamon underwings not white. (Numenius arquata ) Great studies and hearing their lovely evocative and romantic calls is always a great thrill. Ruddy (Arenaria interpres) Several in super summer breeding plumage. Sanderling ( alba ) So cool to see them in spanking fresh summer plumage so unlike the black and white winter birds! Our color ringed bird was banded in Iceland! Dunlin (Calidris alpina ) Many excellent studies in breeding plumage too. Common Snipe ( gallinago ) Fantastic great looks on the deck and of drumming birds displaying on Staffa. Common (Actilis hypoleucos ) Briefly. Common Greenshank ( nebularia ) Nice looks on Tresco. Common Redshank ( Tringa totanus ) Nice looks at displaying birds, one even on fence post singing.

Skuas & Jaegers (Stercorariidae) ( Stercorarius skua ) Known as Bonxi in Scotland we saw breeding birds, their displays and how aggressive they can be protecting their nests too. (Arctic Skua) (Stercorarius parasiticus ) Sadly few at Fair Isle this year was worrying. We did however see both color MORPHS dark and light.

Auks, Murres & Puffins (Alcidae) Common Murre (Guillemot) ( Uria aalge ) Thousands on the packed sea cliffs several with eggs Razorbill (Alca torda ) Always a class above the Murre’s Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle ) Stunning birds and what bright feet! Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica ) Great looking birds one of my favorite seabirds. Boy did we all get to know them so well close up and personal in that spectacular colony on Staffa. Amazing spectacle and for sure another trip highlight for me.

A pair of curious Black Guillemots on Staffa – Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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Gulls, Terns & Skimmers (Laridae) Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla ) What a noise on the sea cliffs you can see why they are correctly called KITTIWAKE!!! Black-headed (Larus ridibundus ) Mew Gull (Larus canus ) Common European Gull (Larus argentatus ) Recently split from your American birds which are the American Herring Gull (or Smithsonian Gull) Larus smithsonianus . Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus ) Nice looks on colonies and nest building principally on Staffa Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus ) Wicked monsters, great close ups on the nests at Great Saltee Common Tern (Sterna hirundo ) Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea ) So graceful in flight we saw a marvelous courtship display too! Sandwich Tern ( Tgalasseus sandvicensis ) *

Loons (Gaviidae) Red-throated Loon ( Gavia stellata ) Superb summer plumaged bird at Mousa and also in winter plumage too. Common Loon ( Gavia immer ) Many smart birds some in small flocks and most in breeding plumage this year.

Northern Storm-Petrels (Hydrobatidae) ( Hydrobates pelagicus) * Sadly not seen however we were privileged to hear the wonderful bubbly musical song from a breeding cavity on Mousa.

Shearwater & Petrels (Procellariidae) Northen Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis ) Wonderful masters of the air! The convoy that followed our ship last night often so close you could almost touch was truly memorable! ( puffinus ) Excellent studies of several close to the ship.

Gannets & Boobies (Sulidae) Northern Gannet ( Morus bassanus ) We were lucky enough to see and be able to study some of the largest colonies in the UK with 20, 000 + pairs, certainly a trip highlight for all especially close up studies on Great Saltee!

Comorants (Phalacrocoracidae) Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo ) European Shag (Phalacrocorax aristtelis) Wonderful close up studies on the nest.

Herons, Egrets & Bitterns (Ardeidae) Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea) The replacement for your Great Blue Heron. Little Egret ( Egretta garzetta )

Hawks, & Kites (Accipitridae) Eurasian Marsh-Harrier ( Circus aeruginosus ) Distant on Scilly. Hen Harrier ( Circus cyaneus ) A couple of females seen at distance either at Great Saltee or on our walk at the Calf of man.

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Red Kite ( Milvus milvus ) One marvelous close bird over road first day near Stonehenge. Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) Several excellent studies.

Owls (Strigidae) Tawny Owl ( Strix aluco ) One seen on the last day at Saint Andrew Castle in the wooded grounds briefly by Nubs and Sam. Short-eared Owl ( Asio flammeus ) Great day time views of a migrating bird at Calf of Man.

Woodpeckers (Picidae) Great Spotted Woodpecker ( Dendrocopos major ) *

Falcon & Caracaras (Falconidae) Eurasian Kestrel ( Falco tinnunculus ) Peregrine Falcon ( Falco peregrinus ) Nicely seen a couple of times in flight.

Old World Parrots (Psittaculidae) Rose-ringed Parakeet (I) ( Psittacula krameri ) London in Hyde Park where common.

Crows, Jays & Magpies (Corvidae) Eurasian Jay ( Garrulus glandarius ) Trebah Gardens brief Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica) Red-billed Chough ( Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax ) Great studies of this lovely corvid what an odd shaped bill too. Eurasian Jackdaw (Corvus monedula) Rook (Corvus frugilegus ) Great looks at Stonehenge where being fed by hand! Carrion Crow (Corvus corone ) Hooded Crow ( Corvus cornix ) Common in Ireland and Scotland, split from Carrion Crow recently Common Raven (Corvus corax )

Larks (Alaudidae) Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis ) Common and what a voice!

Swallows (Hirundinidae) Bank Swallow (Riparia riparia ) (Hirundo rustica ) Common House Martin (Delichon urbicum ) Lovely studies feeding over the lake on Tresco.

Chickadees & Tits (Paridae) Coal Tit (Periparus ater ) Last day at Saint Andrews by some. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus) A great looker. Great Tit (Parus major ) Also very smart colorful bird seen very well.

Long-tailed Tits (Aegithalidae) Long-tailed Tit ( Aegithalos caudatus ) *

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Nuthatches (Sittidae) Eurasian ( Sitta europaea ) Seen well by most best very close at the last minute at Trebah Gardens.

Treeceeepers (Cerhiidae) Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris ) Spotted by Sam and seen by Nubs and me well at Saint Andrews woodlands.

Wrens (Troglodytidae) Eurasian Wren ( troglodytes ) This was the form we saw in England at Trebah Gardens. (Saint Kilda) Wren ( Troglodytes troglodytes hirtensis) is endemic to this remote isle having been isolated by the melt after the last ice age raising the sea levels over 150 m around the British Isles. Therefore due to its distinctly different morphology (larger and grayer and longer bill) plus a different voice its an exceptionally good candidate for a future split. Note we also saw the more rufous endemic subspecies fridarensis on Fair Isle too.

Kinglets (Regulidae) Goldcrest (Regulus regulus ) Wow we had binocular filling views of a responsive male at Terbah Gardens. Britains smallest bird!

Leaf Warblers (Phylloscopidae) Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus ) What a great songster! Common Chiffchaff (Phyllocopus collybita) Seen on the Scillies and Great Saltee where very well by some.

Reed-Warblers & Allies (Acrocephalidae) Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus ) Nice looks Eurasian Reed Warbler ( Acrocephalus scirpaceus ) Tresco, a great songster from the reeds.

Grassbirds & Allies (Locustellidae) Common Grasshoper-Warbler ( Locustella naevia ) Another trip highlight a very difficult bird to ever see well. We got a very responsive male that gave terrific studies.

Old World Warblers (Sylviidae) Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla ) A looker and sexual dimorphic. Females brown cap. Garden Warbler ( Sylvia borin ) Nice looks at Great Saltee. Lesser Whitethroat ( Sylvia curruca ) On Fair Isle then close up in the hand! Being ringed showing well the plumage differences between the two Whitethroats! Not common this far north! Greater Whitethroat (Sylvia communis ) Great studies several times.

Old World Flycatchers (Muscicapidae) Spotted Flycatcher ( Muscicapa striata ) Great to see a nice fall of these lovely birds. European Robin (Erithacus rubecula ) Wow we all quickly fell in love with this ever so friendly garden bird! Whinchat ( Saxicola rubetra ) Nice studies on Tresco. European Stonechat ( Saxicola rubicola ) Common but males are lovely!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Wild & Ancient Britain with Ireland, 2019

Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe ) Nice looks at this very smart bird, even in the hand on Calf Of Man.

Thrushes & Allies (Turdidae) Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos) Lots of great studies. Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula ) Common, a thrush not an Icterid as explained.

Starlings (Sturnidae) European Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)

Accentors (Prunellidae) (Prunella modularis ) Remember my story of its odd sex life? If not look it up on Life Of Birds its unique.

Wagtails & Pipits (Motacillidae) Gray Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) * Western Yellow Wagtail ( Motacilla flava ) One of the trip highlights was finding this blue headed form on Saint Kilda! White (Pied) Wagtail (Motacilla alba) Lots of great studies. Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis ) Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus ) Lots of good looks around the coast

Siskins, Crossbills etc. (Fringillidae) Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs) Always spectacular males! Eurasian Bullfinch ( Pyrrhula pyrrhula ) * European Greenfinch (Carduelis chloris) Wow a mega bird we got superb repeated studies. Twite ( Carduelis flavirostris) Males were simply stunning with those pink rumps and we had great studies. Good find of this localized and easily overlooked species. Eurasian Linnet (Carduelis cannabina) Nice. European Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) Always a WOW bird simply stunning and with a great voice!

Old World Buntings (Emberizidae) Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)

Old World Sparrows (Passeridae) House Sparrow (Passer domesticus )

Total of 126 Bird species!

MAMMALS

Rabbits & Hares (Leporidae) European ( Oryctolagus cuniculus ) European Hare (Lepus europaeus ) The only endemic in the UK!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Wild & Ancient Britain with Ireland, 2019

Squirrel (Sciuridae) Eurasian Red Squirrel ( Sciurus vulgaris ) Stunningly cute seen exceeding well at feeders on the Tresco.

Baleen Whales (Balaenopteridae) Minke Whale ( Balaenoptera acutorostrata ) Seen by some!

Dolphins (Delphinidae) Bottle-nosed Dolphin ( Tursiops truncatus ) Great looks of a group following the Zodiacs Common Dolphin ( Delphinus delphis ) Not as many this year only few sightings!

Stoats & etc. (Mustelidae) River Otter ( Lutra lutra ) Amazing and lucky find around Staffa by some!

Seals (Phocidae) Common/Harbor Seal (Phoca vitulina) Gray/Atlantic Seal (Halichoerus grypus)

Basking Shark (Cetorhinidae) Basking Shark ( Cetorhinus maximus ) Seen by one lucky Zodiac cruise around Staffa

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Wild & Ancient Britain with Ireland, 2019