Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC
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Cloudburst Publication 2008 FINAL for Electronic Distribution
CLOUDBURST FEDERATION OF MOUNTAIN CLUBS OF BC Newsletter—2008 CLOUDBURST Cloudburst is published semi-annually by the Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC. Publication/Mail sales Agreement # 41309018. Printed by Hemlock Printers. Circulation 3500. Articles: We welcome articles which inform our readers about mountain access, recreation, and conservation issues or activities in B.C. Don’t limit yourself to prose: photographs Board of Directors and poems also accepted. Pieces should not exceed 1,000 President: Brian Wood (BCMC) words. Photos should be 150—300 DPI resolution. With Vice President: Peter Rothermel (IMR, ACC-VI) submitted articles please include the author. With submitted Secretary: Pat Harrison (VOA) photos please include location, names of people in the photo Treasurer: Don Morton (ACC-VI) and the name of the photographer. Directors Submission Deadlines: Paul Chatterton (Ind), Dave King (CR, ACC-PG), Bill Perry (IMR), Ken Rodonets (CDMC), Paul Geddes (ACC-Van), Brian Wood Fall/Winter - Oct 15 (BCMC), Peter Rothermel (ACC-VI), Pat Harrison (VOA) Spring/Summer - April 15 Committee Co-Chairs Advertising: The FMCBC invites advertising or classified Recreation and Conservation: Sandra Nichol, Antje Wahl advertising that would be useful to our members. Trails: Pat Harrison, Alex Wallace Rates: $400 back page $300 full page Staff $160 ½ page $80 ¼ page Bookkeeper: Kathy Flood $40 business card Administrative Manager: Jodi Appleton Editor/Production: Jodi Appleton ([email protected]) FMCBC The Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia For More Information (FMCBC) is a non-profit organization representing the inter- www.mountainclubs.org ests of non-mechanized hikers and climbers, and outdoor PO Box 19673 clubs throughout British Columbia. -
Scottish Coast Range Expedition 2002
Scottish Coast Range Expedition 2002 West Pillar, Mount Gilbert (Photo: Simon Richardson) Contents 1. Introduction 3 2. The Team 3 3. Gurus, Climbing Literature and Maps 3 4. Climbing 4 5. Conclusion 6 6. Diary of Events 6 7. Expedition Accounts 7 8. Acknowledgments 7 Mt Raleigh, The Cleaver, Mt Gilbert (l-r) (aerial photograph from the west) (Photo: Bivouac.com) Page 2 1. Introduction The primary aim of the expedition was to climb a new line on the unclimbed, 3000’ south face of Mount Gilbert (3098m), situated in the Coast Range of British Columbia, Canada at Lat. 50° 52.0’N, Long. 124° 16.0’W. Secondary objectives included investigating a potential line on the west face of Mount Gilbert as well as other lines on adjacent mountains. 2. The Team Chris Cartwright 39 yr, British, Human Resource Professional Scottish Winter: Approx. 150 new routes, mostly Grade V and above with numerous Grade VII and harder. Highlights include Fubarbundy (VIII 7) on Liathach, Magic Bow Wall (VIII 8) on Sgurr an Fhidhleir, The Crack (VIII 8) on Ben Nevis, The Link Direct (VIII 7) on Lochnagar. Alps: Highlights include ascents of many summer classics plus first ascents of the South Pillar Freney Direct, Crystal Tripper on Aiguille Jardin and winter ascents including the Dru Couloir. Expeditions to Himalayas, Alaska and numerous trips rockclimbing throughout the world. Simon Richardson 43 yr, British, Petroleum Engineer. Scottish Winter: Approx 300 new routes (140 Grade V and harder, 30 Grade VII and harder). Highlights include first ascents of The Cardinal (VIII,8) Beinn a'Bhuird, The Crack (VIII,8) Ben Nevis, Magic Bow Wall (VIII,8) Sgurr an Fhidhleir, Redemption (VIII,7) Lochnagar. -
2017 SUMMIT of EXCELLENCE AWARD Don Serl
2017 SUMMIT OF EXCELLENCE AWARD Don Serl The Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival is proud to announce Don Serl as the 2017 recipient of the Summit of Excellence Award, which recognizes an individual who has made a significant contribution to mountain life in Canada. Regarded as one of Canada’s most accomplished and prolific mountaineers, Serl has about 200 first ascents to his name. “With the Summit of Excellence Award now being presented to deserving recipients outside of the Canadian Rockies, Don Serl was an obvious and easy choice,” said Nancy Hansen, Summit of Excellence selection committee member. “Over several decades, Don has made significant contributions to Canadian mountain climbing and culture and is humble about his achievements, preferring to discuss new ideas and what others have done. He is a wealth of information about climbing on the West Coast and enjoys sharing his knowledge.” Born in Victoria and raised in Kamloops, Serl discovered a love for the mountains at the age of 25. while working as a chemist in Vancouver. In 1974, Serl trained in the Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia (FMCBC) basic mountaineering course where he said his “energies and imagination were unleashed” and by 1975 he completed his initial first ascent on the north face of Mt Cheam in British Columbia. Since then “he has reigned as the preeminent Coast climber” according to author and climbing peer Chic Scott. Heavily influenced by Canadian climber Dick Culbert, Serl’s horizons opened after an Alpine Club of Canada trip into the multi-summitted Waddington Range, followed by numerous expeditionary trips into remote corners of the Coast Mountains in British Columbia. -
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"BEING A GIRL WITHOUT BEING A GIRL": Gender and Mountaineering on Mount Waddingtotty 1926-36 KAREN ROUTLEDGE LIVE IN A CITY SHAPED BY MOUNTAINS. I first realize this while standing on top of one. It is 8:00 AM on the summit of Mount Baker, a Cascade Ivolcano just south of the American border. The summer morning is already scorching; snow glitters and melts at my feet. I am looking at the region where I have spent most of my life, but it has become another planet: alien, stunningly beautiful, yet somehow familiar. The view is dizzying; there's so much light, so much heat, so much air. All around me, peaks are stacked upon peaks, layers of paling blue fading into the sun-bleached sky. The sight of all this land at once is overwhelming. I know this place but not like this. Ironically, while Mount Baker's snow-capped plateau is a prominent landmark to Vancouverites, the city is utterly insignificant from here. Vancouver lies buried somewhere to the northwest, a squat grey mass in a valley of haze and smog, a sprawling city limited by mountains in three directions. I look down at this map made real before me and finally understand the extent to which geography shapes the way we live. The mountains that surround Vancouver are far more than landmarks, sources of income, and tourist beacons. We have changed these mountains and been changed by them. From their slopes and summits, countless city people have glimpsed not only their home from a different perspective but also their own lives, values, and priorities. -
Climate Change and Hazardous Processes in High Mountains
Zurich Open Repository and Archive University of Zurich Main Library Strickhofstrasse 39 CH-8057 Zurich www.zora.uzh.ch Year: 2012 Climate change and hazardous processes in high mountains Clague, John J ; Huggel, Christian ; Korup, Oliver ; McGuire, Bill Abstract: The recent and continuing reduction in glacier ice cover in high mountains and thaw of alpine permafrost may have an impact on many potentially hazardous processes. As glaciers thin and retreat, existing ice- and moraine-dammed lakes can catastrophically empty, generating large and destructive downstream floods and debris flows. New ice-dammed lakes will form higher in mountain catchments, posing additional hazards in the future. The magnitude or frequency of shallow landslides and debris flows in some areas will increase because of the greater availability of unconsolidated sediment innew deglaciated terrain. Continued permafrost degradation and glacier retreat probably will decrease the stability of rock slopes. Cambio Climático y peligros naturales en altas montañas. La reciente y continua reducción de la cobertura glaciaria en alta montaña y el deshielo del permafrost pueden tener un impacto negativo en muchos procesos potencialmente peligrosos. A medida que los glaciares reducen su espesor y retroceden, los lagos formados por diques de hielo o morenas pueden vaciarse catastróficamente, resul- tando en grandes y destructivas inundaciones o flujos detríticos río abajo. Nuevos diques de hielo vana formarse en zonas más altas de las cuencas montañosas, generando peligros adicionales en el futuro. La magnitud o frecuencia de movimientos en masa superficiales y flujos detríticos va a aumentar en algunas áreas debido a la mayor disponibilidad de materiales no consolidados en nuevos terrenos desglasados. -
[Type the Document Title]
Climbing to the Clouds Teachers Resources OVERVIEW [Type the document title] [Type the document subtitle] sutherlands 0 | Page Climbing to the Clouds Teachers Resources OVERVIEW CONTENTS Overview General Resources 2 Introduction 2 Overall Interpretive Goals 3 Topics Aboriginal 5 History 8 Conservation 11 Recreation 14 Arts 17 Taking It Further References 20 Appendices Web Resources 21 Recreation Activity Resource: Example of Compass Rose 23 Art Activity Resource: Poem 24 Mount John Clarke Newspaper Article 26 Price Ellison’s Expedition to Crown Mountain Vancouver Sun Article 27 Replica Clothes Pass Everest Test BBC Article 34 1 | Page Climbing to the Clouds Teachers Resources OVERVIEW This website offers an opportunity for students to explore the unique topic of local mountaineering while also pursuing curricula-based studies. This package provides an overview of the curricula links as well as specific student activities. Climbing to the Clouds: A People’s History of BC Mountaineering is about mountaineers, of how they were drawn to explore, map, enjoy, and fight to conserve peaks and wilderness areas in south western British Columbia and beyond. The website offers a vast range of curricula-based subjects for intermediate and high school students to explore. The website was created to provide an opportunity for all to experience far-off mountains, to discover how the mountains have influenced British Columbians and to explore reasons that people climb. The geographic scope is primarily southwestern British Columbia, but does include mountains such as Mount Waddington, Mount Logan and Mount Robson. The ascents of those mountains were historically significant as well as significantly challenging. -
Monarch Mountain, Southwest Face, and Other Ascents
AAC Publications Monarch Mountain, Southwest Face, and Other Ascents Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains ON JULY 28, Micha Rinn from Germany and I flew by helicopter to the col between Monarch Mountain and Page Mountain at the head of the Empire Way Glacier, deep in the Coast Mountains. Our objective was the pronounced spur that runs up the center of the unclimbed 1,250m southwest face of Monarch Mountain (3,555m). It was a line that prompted awe and excitement in equal measure—a veritable Walker Spur leading directly to the summit of the peak. How a Scottish-German climbing team came to know about one of the finest unclimbed features in western Canada requires some explanation. My fascination with Monarch, the second-highest massif in the Coast Mountains, began 20 years ago when Dave Hesleden and I traversed the Serra Group after making the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Asperity Mountain in the Waddington Range. [The route referred to in the AAJ report as the south ridge later came to be called the southeast ridge. It faces more or less south-southeast.]As we tussled with the jagged crest of the Serras, reputedly the most difficult summits in the range, Monarch stood out like a sentinel 70 miles to the north. With a prominence of 2,925m, there is no higher peak until you reach Mt. Fairweather, a thousand miles up the spine of the coastal range. I was smitten by Monarch’s dominance and resolved to climb it. The Coast Mountains had got under my skin, and I made two further trips to the Waddington massif, a couple to the Pantheon Spires, and one to the difficult-to-access Mt. -
Climate Change and Hazardous Processes in High Mountains
328 Revista de la Asociación Geológica Argentina 69 (3): 328 - 338 (2012) CLIMATE CHANGE AND HAZARDOUS PRocESSES IN HIGH MOUNTAINS John J. CLAGUE1, Christian HUGGEL2, Oliver KORUP3 and Bill McGUIRE4 1Corresponding author: Centre for Natural Hazard Research, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, BC V5A 1S6, Canada; email: [email protected] 2Glaciology, Geomorphodynamics and Geochronology, Department of Geography, University of Zurich, CH-8057 Zurich, Switzerland; email [email protected] 3Earth and Environmental Sciences, Potsdam University, Karl-Liebknechstraase 24 (Hs 27), Potsdam, Germany; email [email protected] 4Aon Benfield UCL Hazard Centre, University College London, Gower Street, London, UK WC1E 6BT; email [email protected] AbSTRACT The recent and continuing reduction in glacier ice cover in high mountains and thaw of alpine permafrost may have an impact on many potentially hazardous processes. As glaciers thin and retreat, existing ice- and moraine-dammed lakes can catastrophi- cally empty, generating large and destructive downstream floods and debris flows. New ice-dammed lakes will form higher in mountain catchments, posing additional hazards in the future. The magnitude or frequency of shallow landslides and debris flows in some areas will increase because of the greater availability of unconsolidated sediment in new deglaciated terrain. Con- tinued permafrost degradation and glacier retreat probably will decrease the stability of rock slopes. Keywords: climate change, natural hazards, landslides, permafrost, glaciers. RESUMEN Cambio Climático y peligros naturales en altas montañas. La reciente y continua reducción de la cobertura glaciaria en alta montaña y el deshielo del permafrost pueden tener un impacto negativo en muchos procesos potencialmente peligrosos. -
February 28, 1980 Source: the Province, February 28, 1980
February 28, 1980 Source: The Province, February 28, 1980. Details: February 28, three avalanches closed the Salmo to Creston section of Highway 3. Highway maintenance crews hoped to reopen the highway on February 28. Traffic over the Rogers Pass section of the Trans-Canada Highway was also delayed by avalanche stabilisation work. March 1980 Source: Campbell River Courier-Islander, February 16, 2007. Details: In March, a section of bank let loose, slamming into what was then called the Island Inn Motel and causing extensive damage. March 12, 1980 Source: Campbell River Courier, March 14, 1980; The Campbell River and area Mirror, March 19, 1980. Details: Starting 10 p.m. on March 12, southeast winds caused power outages between Courtenay-Kelsy Bay, including Quadra Island. The Campbell River airport recorded winds as high as 80 km/h. A heavy blanket of wet snow compounded the problem. In the Black Creek and Campbell River area, about 11 cm of snow fell, while the Campbell River airport received 30 cm. At Campbell River’s Tyee Spit, some floatplanes sank under the weight of the snow. A large helicopter was used to raise two of the aircraft. Early June 1980 Source: Victoria Times, June 6, 1980. Details: In early June, heavy rains caused several mud- and debris slides about 25 km north of Lytton. On June 6, this section of the Trans-Canada Highway reopened to one lane traffic. November 1980 Source: The Vancouver Sun, November 28, 1980; January 3, 1981; The Province, December 1 and 10, 1980; January 7, 1981. Details: In November, Vancouver experienced the wettest month in half a century. -
CALVING GLACIERS Depth (Hw) Is Linear, and Can Be Simply Expressed As U C = Chw
C CALVING GLACIERS depth (hw) is linear, and can be simply expressed as u c = chw. The value of the coefficient c varies greatly in different settings, being highest for temperate gla- Charles R. Warren ciers and lowest for polar glaciers. Also, for any given School of Geography and Geosciences, University of water depth, calving is an order of magnitude faster in St. Andrews, St. Andrews, Scotland, UK fjords (Fjords) than in lakes, largely as a result of the effect of the different water densities on the buoyancy Calving glaciers terminate in water and lose mass by calv- forces acting on the ice. Much of our understanding ing, the process whereby masses of ice break off to form of the dynamics of calving glaciers stems from inten- icebergs. Since they may consist of temperate or polar sive studies of a small number of Alaskan glaciers ice, may be grounded or floating, and may flow into the (Alaskan Glaciers), particularly Columbia Glacier and sea or into lakes, many types exist. They are widely dis- LeConte Glacier (Meier, 1997; O’Neel et al., 2001). tributed, but while lake-calving glaciers may exist in any This work established the empirical uc/hw relationship, glacierized mountain range, tidewater glaciers but left the physical processes behind it unclear. Model- (Tidewater Glaciers) are currently confined to latitudes ing has subsequently shown that this relationship, and higher than 45 . Typically, calving glaciers are fast the contrasting calving rates in tidewater and freshwa- flowing and characterized by extensional (stretching) flow ter, can be understood with reference to intricate feed- near their termini, resulting in profuse crevassing backs between calving and glacier dynamics (Crevasses). -
Sample Pdf Pages
Exploring The Coast Mountains On Skis A Guide to Ski Mountaineering John Baldwin Third Edition Chapter Reference Map 1 Howe Sound Contents 2 Garibaldi 3 Whistler Using this Guidebook 9 4 Callaghan Trip Planning 15 About the Coast Mountains 21 5 Birkenhead 6 Duffey Lake Pacific Ranges 7 Stein 1. Howe Sound 35 8 Chilliwack River 2. Garibaldi 51 9 Baker 3. Whistler 69 4. Callaghan 87 10 Coquihalla 5. Birkenhead 105 11 Manning Park 6. Duffey Lake 119 12 Ashlu 7. Stein 153 13 Upper Lillooet 8. Chilliwack River 163 14 Chilcotin Ranges 9. Baker 173 15 Lillooet Icefield 10. Coquihalla 191 16 Homathko Icefield 11. Manning Park 203 17 Waddington 12. Ashlu 213 18 Bella Coola 13. Upper Lillooet 233 19 Smithers 14. Chilcotin Ranges 261 20 Terrace 15. Lillooet Icefield 271 21 Stewart 16. Homathko Icefield 287 22 Juneau 17. Waddington 299 18. Bella Coola 333 Kitimat Ranges 19. Smithers 355 20. Terrace 383 Boundary Ranges 21. Stewart 405 22. Juneau 425 23. Extended Traverses 441 Index 445 Metres to Feet 448 34 Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis A Guide to Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern BC, Websites Bruce Fairley www.bivouac.com Scrambles in Southwestern British Columbia, Matt The Canadian Mountaineering Encyclopedia is an excellent Howe Sound Gunn 1 online guidebook that contains route descriptions, photos, A Climber’s Guide to the Coastal Ranges of BC, Dick detailed road information and updates and trip reports. Culbert (out of print) www.clubtread.com Stein Valley Wilderness Guidebook, Gordon White (out Online forum and trip reports. of print) www.turns-all-year.com Alpine Select, Kevin McLane Online forum and trip reports focused on Washington. -
1 an Ice-Core Record of Net Snow Accumulation and Seasonal Snow
An ice-core record of net snow accumulation and seasonal snow chemistry at Mount Waddington, southwest British Columbia, Canada Peter D. Neff1, Eric J. Steig1, Douglas H. Clark2, Joseph R. McConnell3, Erin C. Pettit4 1 Department of Earth and Space Sciences, University of Washington, Seattle, WA, USA 98195 2 Department of Geology, Western Washington University, Bellingham, WA, USA 98225 3 Division of Hydrologic Sciences, Desert Research Institute, Reno NV, USA 89512 4 Department of Geology and Geophysics, University of Alaska Fairbanks, Fairbanks, AK, USA 99775 A 141m-deep ice-core was retrieved from Combatant Col (51.39° N, 125.22° W, 3000m), Mount Waddington, Coast Mountains, British Columbia, Canada. Records of black carbon, dust, lead, and water stable-isotopes show that unambiguous seasonality is preserved throughout the core, despite summer surface snowmelt and temperate ice. High accumulation rates at the site (in excess of 5 m a-1) limit modification of annual stratigraphy by percolation of surface meltwater. The depth age scale for the ice-core provides sufficient constraint on the vertical strain to allow estimation of the age of the ice at bedrock. Total ice thickness at Combatant Col is ~250m; an ice-core to bedrock would likely contain ice in excess of 200 years in age. Correlation between ice flow-corrected annual snow accumulation at the site and regional precipitation using the ERA-40 and ERA-Interim global atmospheric reanalyses shows that accumulation at Combatant Col reflects regional to large-scale precipitation variability. Introduction Numerous ice-core records have been obtained from polar ice sheets and high- altitude tropical glaciers, and are well known for the paleoclimate information they contain (Thompson and others, 1995; Taylor and others, 1997; Fisher and others, 1998; EPICA, 2004).