CLOUDBURST

FEDERATION OF MOUNTAIN CLUBS OF BC Newsletter—2008

CLOUDBURST

Cloudburst is published semi-annually by the Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC. Publication/Mail sales Agreement # 41309018. Printed by Hemlock Printers. Circulation 3500.

Articles: We welcome articles which inform our readers about mountain access, recreation, and conservation issues or activities in B.C. Don’t limit yourself to prose: photographs Board of Directors and poems also accepted. Pieces should not exceed 1,000 President: Brian Wood (BCMC) words. Photos should be 150—300 DPI resolution. With Vice President: Peter Rothermel (IMR, ACC-VI) submitted articles please include the author. With submitted Secretary: Pat Harrison (VOA) photos please include location, names of people in the photo Treasurer: Don Morton (ACC-VI) and the name of the photographer. Directors Submission Deadlines: Paul Chatterton (Ind), Dave King (CR, ACC-PG), Bill Perry (IMR),

Ken Rodonets (CDMC), Paul Geddes (ACC-Van), Brian Wood Fall/Winter - Oct 15 (BCMC), Peter Rothermel (ACC-VI), Pat Harrison (VOA) Spring/Summer - April 15

Committee Co-Chairs Advertising: The FMCBC invites advertising or classified Recreation and Conservation: Sandra Nichol, Antje Wahl advertising that would be useful to our members. Trails: Pat Harrison, Alex Wallace Rates:

$400 back page $300 full page Staff $160 ½ page $80 ¼ page Bookkeeper: Kathy Flood $40 business card Administrative Manager: Jodi Appleton Editor/Production: Jodi Appleton ([email protected])

FMCBC The Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia For More Information (FMCBC) is a non-profit organization representing the inter- www.mountainclubs.org ests of non-mechanized hikers and climbers, and outdoor PO Box 19673 clubs throughout British Columbia. The FMCBC Vancouver BC V5T 4E7 1) addresses mountain access, recreation, and conser- vation issues; Tel: 604-873-6096 Fax: 604 873 6086 2) coordinates, builds, and maintains hiking and moun- Email: [email protected] tain access trails throughout B.C. through its member clubs; and 3) promotes outdoor education and safety.

INDEX Membership

Membership in the FMCBC is open to any individual or club President’s Message………………………………. interested in non-mechanized outdoor activities, and access, 3 Letters to the Editor.……………………………….. recreational, and conservation concerns. 4 Recreation and Conservation Reports…………... 5 Club Membership Trails Committee Reports…………………………. 8 Please contact the FMCBC office to receive a list Club Activities around the Province…………….... 10 of clubs that belong to the FMCBC (See inside back cover). Club Ramblings…………………………………….. 16 Membership is $15 per annum per membership when a Literature of Interest……………………………….. 20 member of a FMCBC Club and $25 per annum for individual Updates……………………………………………... 27 members. FMCBC Message………………………………….. 35 Cover Photograph by Matt Gunn Featuring Antony Blaikie and Teresa Rowley on an ACC day trip to Ronayne Mountain north of Pemberton

2 Federation of Mountain

President’s Message

SO LONG AND WELCOME

We had a very productive Annual General Meeting in Hope this summer. I thank the University of the Fraser Val- ley for providing a location free of charge in Hope. We had directors attending from all regions of British Colum- bia. Many thanks to everyone who journeyed to Hope and took time out from their busy schedules. After three years as President, it my pleasure to turn the reins of the Presidency over to Brian Wood of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club. He has been very active in Recreation and Conservation issues in the BCMC as well as the Southwest Recreation and Conservation Committee.

I want to welcome Jodi Appleton as our new Administrative Manager for the Federation of Mountain Clubs. She is currently enrolled in a Recreation Leadership Program at Langara College. She has done an outstanding job this summer updating our membership lists of our clubs on our Access Database and in recent weeks has been putting together the double edition of Cloudburst. She is currently working one day per week on weekends. Meg Stanley has stepped down as our Cloudburst editor of five years. We thank Meg for her dedication to getting the Cloud- burst out to our members.

I look forward to continuing to serve the Federation of Mountain Clubs in other capacities. I plan on continuing to attend the Southwest Recreation and Conservation Committee meetings and the Southwest Trails Committee. Since 1969, the FMCBC has been the main advocacy force in BC for the non-motorized recreationalists. While there are many conservation organizations in BC, the FMCBC continues to be the main provincial force for the ‘quiet’ recreation.

May the force (and advocacy) be with us.

Sincerely,

Pat Harrison Outgoing President Secretary, FMCBC

Diana Diaconu

Diamond Head summit from the summit of Garabaldi. Paul Ridge to the lower left. Howe Sound and Squamish to the lower right.

Cloudburst—December 2008 3

Letters to the Editor

Time for Drastic Changes the end of the camp. Hardly a pollu- are underfunded. In my opinion this to Out Lifestyles tion free low impact outing. does not equate to the need to raise money through approval of park use After viewing a tenure application I have many motivations for reducing permits with private interests, Full for a new ATV tenure I posted pollution and GHG emissions. First, I Stop. comments similar to the following am selfish, I want to be able to ski, on the Federation of Mountain climb, hike, and enjoy the mountains Allow me to raise a few items ger- Clubs list server. as they are today not some arid dust mane to the discussion that P. bowl. Second, I want my children Rothermel failed to mention: There is an important issue involv- and future generations to be able to - BC Parks expects to receive ing motorized tenures and public enjoy the same mountain experiences $300,000 to $500,000 from Clayo- use that needs to be addressed. At a that I have and the generations before quot Wilderness Resort (CWR), in time when global warming and cli- me have. Third, there are many parts the form of horse friendly bridge mate change are threatening the of our country that rely upon the gla- construction and trail maintenance mountains as we know them ciers and snowfields to provide their in return for this park use permit. (snowfields and glaciers are melt- water supply. Fourth, there are 50 - CWR requests a "30" year Park ing) and the very environment that million people in the Indian sub con- Use Permit ! we all cherish and enjoy is at risk of tinent that, through no fault of their - CWR will self evaluate their drastic change, it is time that we own, will be flooded out of their performance under this PUP. spoke up with a strong united voice homes if the Greenland and Antarctic - CWR currently owns private to express our opposition to any ice shelves melt. Fifth, more people land and controls a Land Use Per- increase in motorized pollution for in Canada die from respiratory ill- mit on Crown Land in the Ursus pleasure activities. At a time when nesses related to air pollution than River Valley, more than amble land we are being asked to drive less, from homicides. for their clients' horse riding enjoy- take the bus, ride your bike to work, ment. buy more energy efficient appli- So, if you agree with any of the - CWR has found it necessary to ances, turn the heat down, get a above reasons, we need to act now to kill wolves attracted to their horse more fuel efficient vehicle it is the ensure that we have done all we can paddocks. height of hypocrisy that other peo- to ensure climate change is mini- - Horses, especially in our Rain- ple are willfully increasing their mized. The final question is, "How forest climate, heavily damage sec- carbon footprints by engaging in much are you willing to sacrifice for tions of trails, creating mud holes pollution for pleasure activities such the good of the environment? Or how and hoof size potholes that hikers as ATVing, dirt biking, snowmobi- much of the environment are you prefer to avoid. ling, jet skiing, etc. willing to sacrifice for your life- - The Master Plan for Strathcona style?" Park specifies that horses are NOT While we all pollute in our daily We can sit by and watch it happen or allowed. SPPAC, the Strathcona lives, including getting to our rec- we can change our lifestyle and make Park Public Advisory Committee, reation activities, the non motorized a difference, the choice is yours. confirmed this interpretation of the users' pollution and green house gas Master Plan, September 14 2007. emissions by and large end when Bryce Leigh And as a consequence rejected this their sport begins. Where as, for CWR application for a Park Use many of the previously mentioned Permit. activities the pollution and GHGs Should Horses Be increase when their activities begin. Allowed Into The Lower I urge you all to demand that the Having said that, we as non motor- provincial government prioritize Bedwell River Valley? funding to our publicly owned ized outdoors enthusiasts are hardly blameless. Many of us helicopter parks. And say NO to private Thanks be to Mr. P. Rothermel for money dictating the makeup of Our into areas for winter ski trips or bringing this application for a park summer climbing. For example the Parks: held in trust for our grand- use permit (PUP) to the attention of children; the last protected refuge 2007 summer ACC General Moun- the FMCBC membership. taineering Camp flew “14 helicop- we have for wildlife and biodiver- sity. ter loads of lumber, gear, tents, Mr. Rothermel highlights the com- food, power tools and other sup- plexity of the issue that we must ei- LeRoy McFarlane, CDMC. plies” into the camp. As each load ther support or reject. I strongly re- weighed 1400 pounds that is 19,600 Black Creek. BC. ject granting private interest a right to pounds of equipment before you our public parks. Why ? add the flights with the climbers, guides, and managers. Then of The sad reality here is that BC Parks course you have to fly it all out at

4 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Recreation and Conservation

Southwest BC Provincial Park. areas near Zoa peak, and an in- Recreation and crease in commercial activity The FMCBC is also in contact and motorized recreation near Conservation with Save Garibaldi, a group of the Coquihalla Summit Area. Committee Report Squamish residents who oppose Antje Wahl, the Garibaldi at Squamish Resort BACKCOUNTRY Committee Co-chair, (savegaribaldi.org). COMMERCIAL ACC Vancouver Section and RECREATION TENURES Brian Wood, BCMC Coquihalla Pass Resort The FMCBC Recreation and RESORT DEVELOPMENTS (formerly Juliet Creek Resort re- Conservation Committee contin- located nearer to Zoa Peak) ues to respond to the many ten- Garibaldi at Squamish The proposed resort would be an ure proposals in popular back- Resort on Brohm Ridge, all-season resort located halfway country recreation areas across Squamish between Hope and Merritt by the the Province. In many areas Coquihalla Highway. The resort these tenures have the potential The proposed resort at Brohm would consist of a base village, to pose significant threats to rec- Ridge encompasses 25 ski lifts, golf course, ski lifts and alpine reational access and impact two golf courses and 5,739 hous- trails. It would be located next to backcountry experiences due to ing units. The FMCBC sent Zoa Peak and near other popular motorized activity. comments on the application Matt Gunn addenda to the Environmental Heli-ski tenure Assessment Office during the applications for public comment period in Waddington Area March 2008. Some points of concern about the proposed The FMCBC, clubs and development: many individuals have sent letters and emails to the Min- Threats to the western bound- istry opposing heli-skiing in ary of Garibaldi Provincial the Waddington area ranges Park due to the proximity of that are remote and unique the resort area. Especially for skiers and climbers. De- planned Lift Q will increase the spite this, the BC Govern- volume of out-of-bounds skiers ment offered a commercial in Garibaldi Provincial Park. heli-ski tenure to Knight Inlet Heliski Sports last year. Displacement of snowmobilers However, for Mt Wadding- from their traditional territory ton and the immediate sur- on Brohm Ridge. This will in- roundings the FMCBC is crease the likelihood of snow- currently negotiating a no-fly mobiling in our remaining very zone for heli-skiing. An es- small non-motorized areas or in tablished no-fly/non- Garibaldi Provincial Park. motorized zone would also prevent future commercial Backcountry access restrictions John Sapac and Jenny Faulkner on BCMC Coquihalla Trip applications for motorized due to the resort blocking normal activities in this area. An- access route via Brohm Ridge backcountry skiing, hiking and other heli-ski, heli-hiking and into Garibaldi Provincial Park. climbing destinations. The Draft heli-flightseeing tenure applica- The developer proposes an un- Terms of Reference for the Envi- tion has been made in February suitable access trail and too few ronmental Assessment of this re- 2008 by the Bute Inlet Develop- parking spots (five) for back- sort application have been filed. ment Corp. (Homalco First Na- country users. The main concerns are the direct tion). Long-term threats due to expan- loss of popular and easily acces- sion of the resort into Garibaldi sible non-motorized recreation Cloudburst—December 2008 5

Rainbow Mountain in the Sea-to-Sky, including [email protected] Heli-biking, Whistler Mount Sproatt and Phelix Creek Barry Penner (Minister of the valley. The FMCBC strongly sup- Environment): The FMCBC opposed an appli- ports the winter recreation zoning [email protected] cation by West Coast Freeride agreement by the Sea-to-Sky Guides for a heli-biking tenure Backcountry Winter Sharing Fo- Rich Coleman (Minister of on Rainbow Mountain because rum. The final LRMP and maps Forests): of the noise impact and the in- can be found here: [email protected] creased potential for further trail http://ilmbwww.gov.bc.ca/lup/ cutting on Rainbow ridge. The lrmp/coast/s2s/index.html BC Government rejected the ap- New Protected Areas PARKS AND WILDERNESS plication for Rainbow Mountain, in Southwest BC and approved the Cougar Moun- AREAS Jay MacArthur (FMCBC past tain tenure application. Smoke Bluffs Municipal president in 80s)

The FMCBC is also in negotia- Park, Squamish One bright note in the conserva- tions with the following tenure To prevent housing development tion front in the past year has holders/applicants to defend the from blocking access to the been an agreement between the backcountry experience for non- climbing bluffs in Squamish, the province and the Lil’wat Nation motorized users: FMCBC has owned three small to confirm several new protected parcels of land adjacent some areas proposed in the Sea to Sky Coast Range Heliskiing appli- popular climbing areas of the and Lillooet Land and Resource cation amendment to existing Smoke Bluffs for about 30 years. Management Planning (LRMP) Duffey Lake corridor tenure The FMCBC has donated the land processes. The new protected (Pemberton/Lillooet) for the creation of a Smoke Bluffs areas are: Park in this area. Negotiations are Powder Mountain Catski ap- ongoing for a conservation cove- Upper Soo Conservancy plication to expand cat skiing at nant to protect in perpetuity all Upper Birkenhead River Brew Ridge and Cypress Moun- the climbing areas of the Smoke Conservancy tain (Squamish/Whistler Bluffs. Twin Two Conservancy If you have any Recreation/ Callaghan Conservancy Powder Mountain Catski ap- Conservation issues that need at- Elaho Conservancy plication for summer ATV tours tention, please contact: 100 Lakes Plateau and hiking in the Cypress/ Conservancy Tricouni area (Squamish/ Antje Wahl Cerise Creek Conservancy Whistler) [email protected], Duffey Lake Park addition Sandra Nicol SEA-TO-SKY LAND AND [email protected], In addition to these new conserv- RESOURCE MANAGEMENT or your club’s FMCBC represen- ancies, several cultural wildland PLAN tative. zones were identified for their high wildlife values, remote wil- Sea-to-Sky LRMP We encourage members to write derness characteristics and their Agreements on land use plan- letters to government to keep the cultural and spiritual signifi- ning have been reached between pressure on these and other issues. cance to First Nations. the provincial government, the You can also cc your email to Lil’wat Nation, the In-SHUCK- your MLA. Following are e-mail I participated in the Protected ch Nation, and the Squamish addresses for key Ministers: Areas Strategy process for the Nation. A final LRMP Vancouver Region and the Lil- (excluding public recreation), Premier Gordon Campbell: looet LRMP representing the was presented at Open Houses in [email protected] FMCBC and am pleased that April 2008. A government- some of our recommendations appointed mediator is currently Pat Bell are finally being confirmed. I reviewing the public winter rec- (Minister of Agriculture and am trying to get some better reation zoning with all user Lands): maps of the protected areas. For groups. The non-motorized zon- [email protected] further information, see the ing of the Upper Callaghan Val- gov.bc.ca website where I found ley has had a knock-on effect on Stan Hagan (Minister of Tourism, this: snowmobiling use in other areas Sport and the Arts): 6 Federation of Mountain Clubs

On April 11, 2008, Chief Leo- developer, who previously wanted non-motorized backcountry ski nard Andrew of the Lil’wat Na- to build in Juliet Creek, has use area with an energy- tion and BC Minister of Agricul- moved south to the ture and Lands Pat Bell signed a Coldwater, and all Bohm Artist Lesley government-to-government the way to the high- (G2G) agreement on land use way, proposing, planning (news release / agree- among other things, ment). With agreements between a lift up Zoa Peak. the Province and the In-SHUCK This development -ch, Squamish, and Tsleil- would completely Waututh Nations already in destroy the wilder- place, the completion of this ness attributes of agreement marked the conclu- Zoa which we cher- sion of the Sea-to-Sky LRMP ish so dearly. The development process. The zon- Federation ex- ing and management direction pressed little con- identified in the agreements have cern over the Juliet Matier and Joffre been integrated into the final Creek proposal, but LRMP, and the Province and we are dead set against a lift up intensive downhill ski develop- First Nations continue to work Zoa and the repositioned ski de- ment. If development can only together on implementation. velopment. This would result in profit by selling condos and then the loss of one of the few remain- has financial problems, as at Artist Lesley Bohm Bohm Artist Lesley ing motor-free Hemlock Mountain, whereby the backcountry ski condos are stranded with no fa- areas within reach cilities, why do it again? The of Vancouver. “jobs” may be short lived.

Reasons for not Please write to: building a ski re- Stan Hagen sort at Coquihalla Minister of Agriculture and are: the ski indus- Lands try has reached [email protected] saturation if Rev- Barry Penner elstoke is already Minister of Environment in receivership; [email protected] the Coldwater Bill Bennett River is seriously Minister of Tourism, Culture View of Coldwater River from Zoa lacking in water and the Arts for massive devel- [email protected] Comments on Zoa opment; and there is no reason Lesley Bohm nowadays to replace a remote,

I hope this is not the last year we Bohm Artist Lesley can ski Zoa! About ten years ago a Forest Ministry-brokered agreement was reached with the snowmo- bilers to share the Zoa recreation area. Snowmobilers were to use Pipeline Road and other roads in the Coldwater drainage and leave Zoa Peak for backcountry ski use. This agreement has worked well for many years, one of the few that has, unlike the Sea to Sky. Now, a downhill ski View of Coldwater Valley from Zoa Ridge Cloudburst—December 2008 7

Trails Committee

Trails Committee route to Cabin lake. and feedback from this first win- Report 2008 Howe Sound Crest ter’s experience will inform fur- Trail Upgrade ther decision-making. Both Alex Wallace FMCBC and Friends of Cypress FMCBC Trails Committee Alex Wallace are determined to retain the FMCBC Trails Committee original start of the Howe Sound The replacement Baden-Powell Crest Trail where it switchbacks Trail section from Cypress Bowl As the construction on the Baden- up through the forest ( which to Cabin Lake around the 2010 Powell reroute came to Alex Wallace Snowboard and Freestyle Ven- an end, work on the ues is now complete as of Octo- Howe Sound Crest ber 31st. This trail section took Trail Upgrade finally over four years to design and got under way this Fall, construct, despite being only 1.4 after about four long Km in length. It is a good exam- years of FMCBC meet- ple of FMCBC’s collaborative ings with VANOC and style, and the construction costs BC Parks. Partial fund- of just over $310,000 were ing for this trail work is shared 50/50 between VANOC coming from VANOC and the Cypress ski operation. as a 2010 Legacy at This route direct to Cabin lake is Cypress, in order to steeper in places and shorter than Ewan and Isla Wallace at the new viewpoint at the start of the compensate for the Howe Sound Crest Trail created by BC Parks in October 2008 the old trail, however it also years of construction at partly recreates the original “old Cypress preceding the 2010 Win- Paul Binkert used to maintain by B-P Trail” route to the Black ter Olympics. Endless complica- hauling gravel in his Trapper Mountain Plateau that existed tions seem to attend any project at Nelson pack), Similarly, the wis- before the ski area runs (and gi- Cypress, however a start has been dom of BC Parks’ proposal to ant clear cut) were created in the made. The first action is for BC route hiker traffic via the Yew 1960’s and ‘70s. A couple of Parks rangers to create an im- Lake Interpretive trail is under Alex Wallace proved Winter route to the Bo- scrutiny. This trail was created wen Island Lookout, although by FMCBC as a trail upgrade there has been concern ex- project under the direction of pressed on the subject of creat- Lesley Bohm, and it was in- ing an easy winter trail with a tended as an interpretive trail grade of less than 8% to an ex- which is wheelchair accessible: posed but spectacular view- for conservation reasons it is point with a drop-off of roughly now off-limits to dogs as the 1,100 metres. Due to the excel- area is largely wetland. There is lent viewpoint and easy access active debate in the trail plan- from the Yew Lake area it ning meetings as to whether it BC Parks Rangers and Cypress ski area staff doing the final review in September 2008 of the newly com- likely will be a popular replace- will be able to sustain the in- pleted Baden-Powell Trail reroute around the ment for the easy section of the creased traffic of hundreds of 2010 Snowboard Venues on Black Mountain in Cypress B-P trail that has been decom- hikers and their dogs each week- Provincial Park. Bill Sims of ACC and Viire Daniels of VOA are in the background missioned, however it remains end, given that the massive 2010 to be seen how the average hik- publicity and the upgraded trail old ‘tin can’ trail markers were ing public will act in icy condi- will likely attract twice as many still in place in one subalpine tions, as terrain beyond this point people. It is worth noting that meadow when we did the hikes is fairly dangerous in winter with when the new emergency shel- to find a new routing for the avalanche chutes and steep creek ters on the HSC Trail built by trail. The old logging road B-P drainages leading straight down to West Vancouver High School trail section that is now buried Howe Sound. This first section students were installed in the under the 2010 Freestyle / Mo- should be completed by Novem- summer of 2008 the resultant guls Venue was actually a re- ber 6th and in use by the time publicity drew so many people placement trail for this original Cloudburst reaches your mailbox, intent on camping overnight in 8 Federation of Mountain Clubs

them that BC Parks actually is- May 16 2008 The agreement that we have is sued a notice that they were for By way of a Trails Update, here is for weekends and holidays only, “emergency use only”. a summary of the situation at Li- and we note that there is now a Unfortunately the matching ons Bay, where the escalating "No Overnight Parking" sign. government funding for this ma- parking conflict of a few years This is West Vancouver School jor trail upgrade, and the up- ago was resolved by Pat Harrison Board property, and so far we grade to the Black Mountain working out an FMCBC agree- have had no problem with litter, loop ( and its dangerous mud- ment with the West Vancouver etc. holes) has not materialised, as School Board in 2006 - allowing proposals approved by BC Parks hikers to use the Lions Bay Ele- One concern expressed by hikers for trail work often have the plug mentary gravel parking lot on when Pat set this up, was that it pulled by Treasury Board in Vic- weekends and holidays. entailed a walk up the streets to toria just before they are due to [ Prior to this, there had been sev- the trailhead... and so Pat and the start. This is a pattern that we eral attempts over an 18 year pe- Trails Committee extended an have seen repeated over the last riod to find a solution or build a existing trail system so that several years, despite the Provin- new parking lot, without success.] it now leads from the North end cial Governments’ “Super Natu- of the school sports field all the ral British Columbia” publicity The trailhead parking area at the way up through the forest to the campaign, and the appearance of Yellow Gate on Sunset Drive in gravel road 200m beyond the happy smiling families enjoying Lions Bay is currently a trailhead, joining the road just hiking trails on just about any bit restricted due to recent water below the water treatment plant. piece of Government advertising main construction, which has left This takes about 35 minutes, as [ironically the recent BC Budget three deep pits at the gate: at least against 15 minutes by road. On flyer is a classic example]. one car has driven into these so the return trip, we advise using FMCBC is going to have an up- far. There is about 35m of angle the road as the forest trail is not hill battle in getting this major parking at this point, about all downhill, takes a bit of time, project funded, and this is in the enough for 12 vehicles, and of can be a bit confusing in the context of the taxpayer provid- course using the 'Resident Park- dark, and the downhill walk ing $16.5 million for the Free- ing' is to be avoided, as towed back to the school by road takes style and Snowboard venues in a cars end up in North Vancouver. around 12 minutes. Provincial Park. Hopefully we will get funding for this hiking There are a few roadside spots The distance from the school to trail work and signage that will throughout Lions Bay Village the trailhead is about 650m by benefit the average park visitor. which hikers have traditionally road, roughly 1km through the used, but again, care should be forest. On a brighter note, a large VOC taken, as one concern is that and North Shore Hikers volun- poorly parked vehicles may We have not had any com- teer group cleared the trail sec- block the fire truck or ambu- plaints in the two years that the tion at Deeks Lake with three lance on the narrow streets. parking agreement and the BC Parks rangers in October of 'forest' trail have been in use, so 2008, so that the Howe Sound The main overflow parking, i.e. if hopefully things will go well Crest Trail section from Magne- you arrive too late to get a spot again this year. I did a hike of sia Meadows to Porteau is now close to the trailhead, is at the Li- the trail last weekend to take clear. How the new Porteau ons Bay Elementary School, 250 photographs and pick up litter housing development at Deeks Bayview Road. On weekends and ( there was none), and I was Bluffs will turn out is still un- holidays, which is when crowds pleased to see that an unknown known, as relatively little infor- tend to arrive, the street park- trail crew has recently cleared mation has been forthcoming ing in front of the school is avail- any fallen trees. Pat and I will about design plans, however we able, and this will take about ten likely try to meet with the Lions have been repeatedly assured cars. The large gravel parking lot Bay Mayor this spring to see that the hiking trail and parking is adjacent to the grass sports field what the outlook is for filling in will remain accessible. at the school: as you drive up the pits at the trailhead: keep an Bayview there are two gates just eye out for them, they are cov- before the school: one is locked, ered in scraps of plywood. Lions Bay Parking one is always left open: the gravel Alex Wallace parking lot is here, down a short ramp and there is capacity for 45 for Trails Committee cars. Cloudburst—December 2008 9

Club Activities Around The Province

bottom of the "cut". (The ski run BRITISH COLUMBIA MOUNTAINEERING CLUB you see from the city). We then CENTENNIAL CELEBRATIONS hiked on up to the Grouse moun- David Scanlon tain Chalet in the dark using our Donna Scanlon As the song said. "WASN'T hit. Our only disap- THAT A PARTY?" Most things pointment of all this are finally starting to wind was in not getting a down. Others just keep on roll- centennial club cabin ing along. The 6 month City of built. It seems that North Vancouver Museum dis- some people don't play, " Peak Performance " is understand the mean- now over. It was very well at- ing of the word tended with many going back "consultation". I'll more than once. have to not say more in this matter. This from Shirley Sutherland at the museum. "The show is The club video will David (Chair of BCMC Centennial Committee) and Donna Scanlon deemed to be a great success! be an ongoing project Interestingly, our attendance in for some time yet. The club is "bug lights". Grouse kept the the past month was up; in fact, planning to enter it in various film staff for a couple of hours extra we believe that we had our busi- festivals world wide in the next for us while we had a party in

Donna Scanlon year or so. We have found the chalet to celebrate. Thanks to that there are a surprising the Chalet staff. They treated us number of mountain film well. festivals around the world all with different fees, In the summer of 1907 Mt Gari- rules, categories, datelines, baldi saw it's first ascent by time lines etc. The video climbers who were to become committee will for the the first new members, a few foreseeable future still have months later, of the Vancouver much to do. Mountaineering Club. (soon to be changed to the British Co- With the City of North lumbia Mountaineering Club). Vancouver celebrating it's Last July the BCMC had a re- Martin Kaefer, Brian Wood, Barb Kornatowsky, Clarence Kornatowsky, David Hughes (President) 100th birthday also last year enactment of that first ascent. the club had a bug light hike The only pre requisite being that est day ever the last weekend. in cooperation with the city parks you had to be in attire from that Visitors were most appreciative department. A bug light? (is an era. We all looked so kool in our of the show... many stayed for empty large tin can with one end old duds! 22 people attended extended periods, some came cut out. Then a hole Donna Scanlon back a few times. The com- is cut in one side ments in the gallery book are just big enough to great. We had standing room put a candle in. Us- only for the Katherine Bridge ing a wire handle, lecture. Unfortunately, we ran this is what the old out of time and space to do the timers used to for a other events... but I expect they light many long will appear in other forms later." years ago.) There were 49 partici- This years calendar showing last pants! We hiked up years centennial events sold well the BCMC trail on and the video, depicting 100 Grouse Mountain to years of excellence of the a point near the top, BCMC was, and still is, a big then cut over to the Irene Apps (Oldest Continuous Member—Joined in 1944) 10 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Diana Diaconu show. The Whistler Pique paper did the club proud with many pages of coverage. The City on North Van's paper, The North Shore News gave the club great coverage on all of our events. The Squamish Chief paper. The other north shore paper the Outlook. The Vancouver Courier. The Prov- ince paper did a two page spread on the clubs honorary presidents the Kafers. Mountain Life Maga- zine as did the climbing maga- zine Gripped do articles on the club. And lets not forget the arti- Back row left to right: Dave Scanlon, David Hughes, Brian Wood, Karl Ricker, Monika Bittel, Ed Zenger, Bob Woodhouse. Front row left to right: Todd Ponzini, Ravil Chamgoulov, Alice Purdey, cles done honouring the club by Alycia Laidlaw, Evelyn Feller. our very own Cloudburst. Many thanks to all. with 15 going on to the summit. into the area. Then with the Our club vice president took an only 5 continuous days of good Donna Scanlon ice axe to the summit as did we weather they had, they did all. His though was an ice axe manage to summit. The weather from the 1st 1907 ascent, once then took a turn for the worse; belonging to Mr. J. J. Trory. again prohibiting them from With the BCMC being the driv- doing much more than just get- ing force in getting Garibaldi ting out and home. made into a provincial park in the 1920's , BC Parks, also cele- The year ending banquet held in brating it's 80th birthday, had the Grouse Mountain Chalet one of the park rangers come was a 170 member sold out along with us on the trip. A resounding success. The spread most successful fun venture. put on was awesome. Some speeches were made, acknowl-

Diana Diaconu edgement given to all of the past presidents that were in attendance, the centennial cake was cut, then there was the premier showing of the Fred Douglas and Alice Purdey club video. Many old friends were re ac- Also yet to come are a history quainted, and stories told book of the BCMC, and, a spe- and retold that evening. cial edition, Centennial Journal. Both being written by Michael

Back row left to right: Karl Ricker, Serena Levy, Todd Ponzini, The VIMFF. The club Feller. Lenore Ponzini, Todd Lawson, Monika Bittel, Dave Scanlon, was acknowledged in the Donna Scanlon, Fred Douglas, Alice Purdey, Trudy Rey, Ed Zenger. brochures, had a short The club received letters of rec- Front row left to right: Bob Woodhouse, Ravil Chamgoulov, Evelyn Feller, David Hughes, Brian Wood. film shown, and held a ognition from the Mayors of the reception at the Vancou- City of North Vancouver, Whis- An expedition to Mt Fairweather ver International Film Festival in tler. The Vancouver horticultural was also done last summer with February. The reception was held Society. A proclamation from this being 50 years from the last on the BC Canada evening. the mayor of Vancouver. Letters BCMC trip to the area. Led by from the Lieutenant Governor club president David Hughes, The club was quite pleased with General, Premier Gordon Camp- the climbers had to endure very all of the publicity received from bell. Prime Minister Steven bad weather on more than one the media. There was even a short Harper. occasion. First to wait to just fly TV spot on a local morning TV Cloudburst—December 2008 11

COMOX DISTRICT MOUNTAINEERING CLUB 80TH toward cycling.

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION Dinner culminated with Ruth Heather Mathers and Dave O’Neill Masters cutting a large birthday

Chris Carter day hikes to expeditions of a cake decorated to resemble a week or more. hiking trail meandering through a forest. Ms. Masters managed Club members and their families to inadvertently knock down a spent the weekend enjoying a va- tree or two from the top of the riety of activities such as kayak- cake during the ceremony, which ing and canoeing plus hiking on led some members to remark the nearby Crest Mountain & that this was probably the first Bedwell Lake trails. As a result time Ruth could be accused of The August 15th weekend of the near cloudless sky, the final plundering a forest. brought hot and sunny weather route to the summit of Crest and approximately 40 people to Mountain offered a spectacular As the full moon rose in the sky the Driftwood Bay campsite be- panorama of the surrounding and the participants began to side Buttle Lake to celebrate the mountain peaks and a refreshing retire to their tents and campers, 80th anniversary of the Comox splash in a perfect alpine lake. the sound of a single harmonica District Mountaineering Club could be heard across the camp- (CDMC). Returning to Driftwood Bay, the ground. It was Ruth Masters least ambitious activity seemed to drawing the occasion to a close The club was founded in 1928 be enjoyed the most - simple with a moving rendition of by a few people interested in lounging around the small but "Amazing Grace" which marked exploring Forbidden Plateau. beautiful beach adjacent to the a fitting end to a wonderful eve- These were the original route camping area. ning. finders and trail builders in that region. The trails have gradually A potluck anniversary dinner and Given the overwhelming posi- been extended further into the salmon barbecue was held the tive response, the club is now mountains of Vancouver Island evening of August 16th with considering making such a and continue to remain in use guest of honour being Ruth Mas- weekend an annual event on the today for the enjoyment of hik- ters, the renowned local environ- CDMC calendar. ing and outdoor enthusiasts. ment crusader and CDMC mem- Chris Carter The CDMC is presently an in- ber since 1936. Ruth brought corporated society with over 140 with her a photo album and scrap- members ranging in age from book which documented the long teenagers to octogenarians. The and colourful history of the club. Chris Carter Ruth also took the op- portunity during this event to award one of her "silver spoons" to Ruth Masters, CDMC member since 1930s Ed Schum doing the honours for his con- tinued efforts Comox District Mountaineering on behalf of Club is always interested in at- the bicycling tracting new members. Anyone From left to right: Jerry Feniak, Ken Rodonets, Ruth Masters, Jenny Schum, community wishing to learn more about the Diana Fright, Ed Schum. in the Co- club can visit the CDMC web- mox Valley. site at www.comoxhiking.com hikes offered by the club vary in Ed recently completed a bike trip or contact Ken Rodonets, intensity from easy to strenuous throughout Europe to experience CDMC president at 250-336- and can range anywhere from first hand the European attitude 2101.

12 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Island Mountain peaks had to be over 5,000 feet. Up Your Peaks: Here’s how it Ramblers celebrate The list had to be submitted to the works: committee at the end of the year 50 years and a commemorative document was given as well as a free copy Climb 10 peaks on Vancouver 1958 - 2008 of book called The History of Island over 1500 metres in Bill Perry and Lindsay Elms Mountaineering on Vancouver height, for a total of 15,000 Island. It was a huge success with metres, between October 1, Every one likes a celebration: 75 people achieving the objective. 2006 and October 1, 2008. from a birthday, Christmas, a wedding anniversary, or the Now that the club is reaching 50 opening of a new store, to the years, it is again celebrating with Record these on forms designed first moonwalk. But how we the challenge of “Up Your by the club* and send it in to celebrate is different. A birthday Peaks,” but the stakes have been Island Mountain Ramblers, can bring friends together for a doubled. This time the objective Box 691, Nanaimo, BC, party; a wedding anniversary can is to climb 50,000 feet, but the V9R 5M2 be a quiet, romantic dinner for club has gone metric and the fig- two; the opening of a new store ure is 15,000 vertical metres. This might have big opening day bar- means 10 mountains over 1,500 Results will be reviewed. “Up gains and discounts, but how metres. However, participants your peaks” winners will be does a mountaineering club cele- have two years to complete the recognized and awards** brate 50 years of activities. One objective: 2007 and 2008. The presented at the 2008 fall might say by having a special challenge is not only for club meeting. A few rules and dinner somewhere or by even members but it is open to anyone details: climbing a mountain! Well, in who wants to climb. Of course 2008 the Island Mountain Ram- they would love to have partici- blers of Nanaimo is going to pants join the club but the only Peaks claimed must be separate have been together for 50 years stipulation they have asked is for mountains, not different and as a club they want to do the climbers to have witnesses peaks of the same mountain. something to celebrate that fact. sign each climb. Solo ascents – well they’ll take your word. The Island Mountain Ramblers Names of witnesses (fellow was founded in 1958 by Syd For more information go to the climbers) should be re- Watts of Duncan and Harry Federation of Mountain Clubs of corded. Solo climb? Ok, Winstone of Crofton. Both were British Columbia website, we’ll take your word for it, young, active members of the www.mountainsclubs.org and fol- within reason. Vancouver Island section of the low the links to the Island Moun- Alpine Club of Canada, how- tain Ramblers. The climbing list ever, they found there were too has to be sent to the: Island moun- A list of peaks over 1500 metres many scheduled Alpine Club tain Ramblers, P.O.Box 691, is available on request. Peaks trips off the island. Both Watts Nanaimo, BC, V9R 5M2 by Oc- claimed do not have to be on the and Winstone loved the beautiful tober 1, 2008. Results will be list, but must be confirmed over mountains the island had to offer scrutinized and participants rec- that height. and they wanted to explore what ognized at the club’s fall meeting was right outside their back in 2008. So clean up those boots doorstep, so they formed a new and begin the “Up Your Peaks” *Or a least a list of mountains club. They encouraged other like challenge. There might even be a climbed with elevations, name(s) minded climbers to join them celebratory dinner to restock your of witness(es) and date submit- and were soon organizing and carbohydrates after the fall meet- ted. leading trips all over Vancouver ing and a few beers! Island. Interested? It’s not too late to par- **The award will be a specially In 1983 the Island Mountain ticipate. You still have this sum- designed Club patch acknowl- Rambler’s celebrated 25 years as mer and part of the fall to com- edging your accomplishment. a club and called the event “Up plete the ten climbs. The follow- Your Peaks.” The challenge was ing are the rules and guidelines. to try and ascend 25,000 vertical Good Luck. feet or more in 1983 and the Cloudburst—December 2008 13

Dave Grant Dave Grant disappeared under close to 2 me- ters of snow. The only evidence of the trail was the odd clipped Dave Grant branch at snowline. (Plans are underway to winter mark the trail, with standard trail markers, to ensure safer route finding for future years.)

Once we reached the ridge by Mt Lepsoe, the route then dropped onto the west side of Mt Plewman, and we could see the rest of the ridge. Views of the abandoned fire and weather sta- tion at 2380 m on Old Glory re- minded us, that in the old days, not everyone got to go home at night for a hot meal. KMC members: Dave and Jill Watson, Vicki Hart, Bob McQueen and Dave Grant

ridge to take you back to the high- Ski conditions were the standard Kootenay way, if you want to break the trip Kootenay mix, dry fluffy powder Mountaineering Club into more than one day. on the north slopes, soft corn on Seven Summits Trail the south facing slopes and vari- Ski Touring As a group of 6 moderate ski able snow on all slopes in be- tourers, on a variety of telemark tween. and light cross country gear, this The Seven Summits trail is ac- seemed an obvious choice and The ridge skiing was a little knowledged as one of the pre- allowed us the comfort of a solid tenuous in places because of the miere mountain biking routes in nights sleep at home, while still cornices, sastrugi and the occa- the West Kootenays. The area is covering lots of ground during the sional patch of breakable crust, also blessed with a deep snow day. but the views were spectacular pack and with its close prox- and we covered distance at a imity to Rossland, it is the per- So on a cold morning in early good pace. We arrived at the fect ski touring destination. March, we set off up the trail Hanna creek trail exit point by Starting 20 km north of Ross- from the Nancy Greene summit. mid afternoon and skied down to land, B.C., it ascends from the The trail was well marked for the the vehicles before dark. parking lot at the Nancy Greene first 3-4 km, at which point it Summit (1600 m elev.) to the climbed onto the north ridge of Phase two of the trip involved ridge (2135 m) just past Mt Lep- Mt Lepsoe and the trail markers retracing our steps back up the

soe. The trail then runs south- Dave Grant ward along the ridge past Mt. Plewman, Old Glory Mountain, Mount Kirkup, Grey Mountain, Granite Mountain and Record Mountain before ending up at the old Cascade highway, 30 km south of where you started.

Whether done in a day or over several days, ski touring this route is always challenging, with opportunities for some excellent downhill lines or for the more moderate skier, a simple ridge- line tour that is safe in most ava- lanche conditions. There are also numerous exit points on the Seven Summits trail route along ridge south of Mt Plewman 14 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Hanna creek trail and finishing Valley Outdoor The VOA is a long standing off the southern portion of the Association Update member of the FMCBC and has trip over another 7 hour day. The always had representation on route takes you up the west either the FMCBC's Rec & Con shoulder of Mt Kirkup and cross Mike Stewart or Trails Committees. Pat Harri- the saddle to Mt. Grey At this son, the FMCBC's past Presi- point you drop down and trav- The Valley Outdoor Association dent, is a member of the VOA. erse through the edge of the Red was formed in 1973 by a small Our members have always been Mountain ski area tenure, and group of hiking enthusiasts from concerned about issues relating continue over to the undulating, across the Lower Mainland, We to the backcountry. The club's sparsely treed Record Ridge. currently have approximately schedule includes trail mainte- The skiing was moderate, with 150 members, and activities in- nance work (primarily Mt Slesse slopes less than 20 degrees and clude hiking, backpacking, snow- and Mt St. Benedict), and each time was spent exploring various shoeing, cross country skiing and year the VOA makes a donation meadows and making turns on cycling. The club holds a week to a worthy cause such as Search some excellent slopes, before long summer camp at a different and Rescue, WCWC, etc. One traversing out to the vehicles location each year. In addition. area of special interest to our located on the old Cascade high- there are usually one or two week members is the future viability way at the south end of the trail. long backpacks or cycle trips on of the Elk/Thurston trail. This is the summer schedule. The VOA very popular year round hike The Kootenay Mountaineering publishes a quarterly bulletin con- with our members, and we are club coordinates over 20 planned taining a schedule of weekend concerned about plans to cut a trips each winter and another 50 activities. As well, there is a logging road across the trail to trips from May to October. strong contingent of "Wednesday" access a nearby cut block. These trips range from day trips hikers who have their own ad similar to the one described hoc schedule of hikes and snow- above to long distance tours with shoe trips. multi-night cabin or camping Jay MacArthur stays. The club has approxi- mately 240 members and is cen- tered in the community of Nel- son, with numerous members from Rossland, Trail, Castlegar, Kaslo and the Slocan valley. The club pursues a policy of year round activity, with trips sched- uled Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays for the majority of the year. There are also with three - one week long hiking camps each summer, a one week climb- ing camp and a one week ski touring camp at Kokanee Gla- cier. Anyone interested in learn- ing more about the club can visit our website at www.kootenaymountaineering.b c.ca .

Dave Grant, Vice President, KMC

Bugaboo Spire Cloudburst—December 2008 15

Club Ramblings

bodies, finally, frozen and un- her days, sitting on a rocky found. crag with her hawk, gazing out over the valley, apparently Some have lost friends down dreaming, seemingly oblivious crevasses when ice axe to the needs of the people. failed, anchors pulled out, Soon, more and more villagers belaying to a safe place was but began to complain. They the deepest of all thought the woman was lazy. desires. She was not working long hours in the field as they were. And how do those who have had She was not producing to cut the rope of anything of worth or note for their dearest to save the group the village. She did not seem to Déjà vu David live ever forward and be contributing to the welfare By Ron Dart onwards? of the community. After all, the citizens of the village worked Have ever you heard of the Dorothy accused Earle of push- long and hard hours, and they Land of Beyond, ing the dying David did not have time to sit around, That dreams at the gates of over the preening themselves under the the day? rock ledge. warm sun, Alluring it lies at the skirts It was just a poem and fiction high on the hard rock rim under of the skies, Earle insisted. the warmth and light of day And ever so far away. star. Many people began to re- Robert Ser- Some spend days at memorial sent feeding the hawk and the vice huts and cabins where woman who sat on the rock memories of soul friends will edge. They seemed to be doing Dorothy accused Earle of push- not die, wondering about nothing. ing the dying David the Land of Beyond. over the A committee was formed, and rock face. La Lotta Continua they voted unanimously to ban- Earle denied the charges. ish the woman and her hawk. A The epic poem is a fiction, letter was sent to her, stamped is it not? A Woman and Her with the official seal of the town. The next day at dawn, There are some who have spent Hawk the woman and her hawk left. years on the white To Karin Within a long year, many of the towers and ancient sentinels, (Amor vincit omnia) people in the Alpine village rock slabs and inviting sum- died. A disease, carried by an Once upon a time, there was a mits. army of rodents, had crawled woman and a hawk. They lived into every chalet, infecting par- in a small village, in a smaller Some have seen bodies fall like ents and children alike. The Swiss canton, high in the Alps. rag dolls down moment the woman and the The village was a quiet and unforgiving jagged rocks, hawk left the village, the ro- peaceful place. The people finally impaled by the spear- dents knew they could enter worked hard, and they certainly head and worry fear. knew how to play and dance af- fang of time carved granite. Those who were left in the vil- ter a long season of work and at lage finally turned and lifted harvest time. Some have seen friends buried their eyes to the hills, and alive in avalanche there, patiently waiting, was As time went on, as time does, snow cement, transceivers, the woman and her hawk. some in the village began to probes and shovels of little aid, complain about the woman and her hawk. She seemed to spend 16 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Mountain Named for Park. This heavily glaciated and on the principles that she had Woman Adventurer spectacular mountain, known lo- learned in the Canadian Rockies, cally as Mount Kitchi or Big but this venture meant that she Mike Nash Mountain, later officially became was no longer free to travel in Mount Sir Alexander. Mary hired the summer. In the fall of 1917, A trip into the backcountry be- Curly Phillips to guide her to Big however, she made one more comes more interesting if you Mountain the following summer, trip to Jasper, where Curly again learn about the history of the and then again in 1915. On both guided her on an astonishing area being traversed. A few the 1914 and 1915 attempts, Mary horse-packing trip from Jasper to years ago, after browsing Jobe made it onto the northeast the Wapiti River and back, ex- through some old maps in Jas- glacier and reached an elevation tending well into November. per, I decided on a weeklong of 2,375 metres, only 895 metres According to Phillips' biography, backpacking trip from Mount from the summit. On the 1915 Tracks Across My Trail by Wil- Holmes just north of McBride, the Canadian Rockies Museum of Whyte liam Taylor, and Off the beaten to Mount Robson - a wilderness track-women adventurers and walk of 100 kilometres. Travel- mountaineers in western Canada ling with one companion, part of by Cyndi Smith, a camp ro- our route followed historic horse mance blossomed between Phil- trails over Jackpine Pass on the lips and Jobe on this trip. De- border of Alberta's Willmore spite a later visit by Curly to see Wilderness; through Bess Pass her in New York, Mary Jobe is on the border of Jasper National thought to have declined his of- Park; and down the Smoky fer of marriage, and instead be- River to approach Mount came the "other" woman in the Robson from its north side. The failing marriage of Delia and route lay 60 kilometres southeast Carl Akeley. Carl Akeley was of Kakwa Provincial Park, where renowned for having invented I have done three other hiking modern taxidermy, and for de- trips. These areas have some- veloping very lifelike museum thing in common - they are all displays. Carl and Delia (and part of the country travelled in later Mary) were inveterate Af- the early twentieth century by a rica explorers and museum game young New York schoolteacher collectors as well as advocates named Mary Jobe. for reserves to protect Africa's soon to be endangered wildlife. With the coming of the railway, the country northwest of Jasper Mary Jobe wrote only short began to attract American parties pieces about her northern Rock- intent on hunting, exploring, and ies adventures for magazines and climbing. Mary Jobe, who had journals, including those of the earned a masters degree in Eng- American Geographical Society lish and American history from and the Alpine Club of Canada. Columbia University in 1909, Yet as "Mary Jobe Akeley" (she attended the Alpine Club of Can- married Carl in 1924 until his ada camp at Mount Robson in death in Africa only two years 1913 when Conrad Kain led the Mary Jobe Akeley later) she wrote many full-length first ascent of the mountain. books about Africa and Carl There she met guide and outfitter attempt, Phillips, who despite his Akeley, including The Wilder- Donald "Curly" Phillips who had legendary Robson attempt wasn't ness Lives Again - Carl Akeley made the audacious attempt on really interested in climbing, went and the Great Adventure (1940.) the mountain with Reverend farther, reaching 30 metres from Before their divorce, Delia was a George Kinney in 1909 and had the summit of Sir Alexander be- formidable part of the Akeley succeeded in reaching the sum- fore he was forced to turn back. "team," helping Carl to develop mit ridge. While at the Mount his wildlife displays, and saving Robson camp, Mary Jobe be- In 1916, Mary Jobe gave up his life on at least one occasion came interested in an unclimbed teaching in New York to found a in Africa. She later went on to peak 125 kilometres to the north- summer camp for girls in Mystic, become one of four top Ameri- west in what is now Kakwa Connecticut. She based the camp can women adventurers of the Cloudburst—December 2008 17

twentieth century recounted in and this excerpt from his book is There are plenty of illustrations Elizabeth Olds' book, Women of reproduced by permission of the in the book, and the thirteen the Four Winds. Yet, despite the author. chapters tell us much about Can- crucial role she played in Ake- ada as it was in the latter half of ley's life, Canadian Alpinism: the 19th century. Beginnings there doesn't seem to be any It is in the last few chapters (8- mention of Delia in The Wilder- 12) that Grant waxes eloquent, ness Lives Again, not even in Ron Dart eager and enthusiastic about the Mary's account of the elephant West Coast and the mountains. mauling, when, according to George Parkin Grant (1918-1988) Each of these dramatic chapters Elizabeth Olds, Delia had put ‘has been called Canada’s greatest is not to be missed: 8) The her own life at great risk to save political philosopher. To this day, Rocky Mountains, 9) Yellow Carl's. his work continues to stimulate, Head Pass to the North Thomp- challenge and inspire Canadians son River, 10) Along the North Mary Jobe wrote mainly under to think more deeply about mat- Thompson River to Kamloops, her married name Akeley, and as ters of social justice and individ- 11) From Kamloops To The Sea, such is best ual responsibility’. Grant visited and 12) The Coast, And Vancou- known to- Canadian Geographic Photos Vancouver in ver’s Island. day. Yet 1975, and Wil- when it liam Christian, in Those of us that live on the West came to the biography of Coast tend to have an abiding recognizing George Grant fascination and interest in the her exploits stated, ‘Grant did Waddington area. Don/Phyllis in the not much like Munday opened up the appeal of Northern mountains and this glacier thick and mountain Rockies, an thought the scen- castle terrain, and others have accident of ery in all respects followed their guide and chal- timing inferior to lenging lead. George Munro meant that Terrance Grant does not let us down in "Jobe" was Bay’ (p.XII). Ocean to Ocean; chapter 12 tells the name us much about the area, and the chosen to George Parkin Waddington area was written honour this Grant’s attitude and amply illustrated in 1872. interesting towards the ‘The Coast, and Vancouver’s woman. mountains was Island’ has many an enduring quite different Mount Mary Jobe Akeley description and graphic sketch of Jobe, at from his well Bute Inlet, Waddington Harbour, 2,301metres, is located in the known and much loved grandfa- Glaciers, early maps of the area, Morkill River Valley, partway ther, George Munro Grant (1835- Hamathco and Hamathco below between Kakwa and Mount 1902). In the summer and autumn the Defile. It is in Grant’s gener- Robson Provincial Parks, and of 1872, Sir Sanford Fleming, ous portrayal of both the area was named by the Interprovin- George Munro Grant and others and the history of the Wadding- cial Boundary Survey in 1923, traveled by train, steamer, canoe, ton region that we are walked the year before Mary's marriage wagon and horseback from Hali- into the Coastal mountains dec- to Carl. Mary (Jobe) Akeley died fax to Victoria. The trip was de- ades before Don/Phyllis Munday in a Mystic, Connecticut nursing scribed, in detail, by made the place a sacred site for home in July 1966, aged 88. Grant in Ocean To Ocean: San- mountaineers. ford Fleming’s Expedition Through Canada in 1872. The This article is excerpted from th Ocean to Ocean offers us a taste, Exploring Prince George - A tome is now a classic of 19 cen- and is a primer, in many ways, Guide to North Central B.C. tury Canadian literature, and a of early Alpinism in Canada. Outdoors by Mike Nash; ISBN must read for adventure keeners. But, there is more to come. Sir 978-1-894765-49-7; first pub- Grant was the secretary of the ex- Sanford Fleming, in England lished in 2004 by Rocky Mount pedition, and his evocative and and Canada: A Summer Tour Books (Heritage House imprint) inviting descriptions of the trip between Old and New Westmin- and republished in 2007. Mike is draw the reader into the chal- ster (1884), has this to say. a past contributor to Cloudburst, lenges and beauty of the journey. 18 Federation of Mountain Clubs

‘During the past summer (1883), founded in 1883 by Sir Sanford to make it so. circumstances induced the writer Fleming and George Munro to visit England, to re cross the Grant. It is a few decades after The publication of Picturesque Atlantic, and make a journey the trips taken by Grant and Flem- Canada in 1882 warmed many through the whole extent of Can- ing that Alpinism in Canada takes in Canada to Grant’s aesthetic ada to the Pacific off in a fuller and more demand- and nationalist sensibilities. Poli- coast’ (introduction). England ing way. This history is well tics and mountains, art and alp- and Canada is a fit and fine Library and Archives Canada inism joined affectionate hands companion to Ocean to Ocean. in this literary and artistic over- Grant and Fleming were on both view of Canada at its expansive trips, the trips across Canada to and welcoming best. It is inter- the West Coast were done al- esting to note that Picturesque most a decade apart, and both Canada was published by the men had an attraction for the Belden brothers, and Arnold mountains. Shives, one our finest West Coast mountain painters and England and Canada has twenty climbers, is a relative of the -five chapters, and chapters 13- Belden brothers. Arnold’s father, 18 vividly describe the pilgrim- Kilgour Belden Shives age through the bold peaks of (a keen west coast mountaineer), Alberta and British Columbia. It stood solidly in the Belden line is in chapter 15, though, that we and lineage, and Arnold Shives, are greeted with a delightful and his son, has combined both the often ignored piece of Canadian artistic and publishing finesse of mountaineering history. Fleming the Belden brothers with the pas- unfolds the drama well in ‘To George Munro Grant sion for the outdoors and moun- the Summit of the Selkirks’. The taineering. The circle does come previous chapter, ‘Down Kick- tracked and traced in full circle. ing-Horse Valley’ (14) prepares Mountain Climbing Guides in the reader for what is about to Canada: The Early Years (1977). Canadian Alpinism has compel- emerge just as the following Grant and Fleming explored and ling origins. Ocean to Ocean chapters, ‘Down the Ille-Celle- trekked the mountains and moun- (1873), Picturesque Canada Waet’ tain passes before mountaineering (1882) and England and Canada (16-17) conclude the archivist in Canada became popular and (1884) are motherlodes beneath memory well. ‘To the Summit of mountain guides arrived in our historic feet. If we but dig the Selkirks’ reaches its climax Canada. Ocean to Ocean (1873) deeper and further, an older with these words by Fleming: and England and Canada (1884) mountaineering tale will told, speak much about the lure and and we will learn much about The horses are still feeding appeal of the mountains, written how those before us traveled and we have some time at in evocative prose, before moun- through the well carved valleys, our command. As we view taineering in earnest began in perched passes and high peaks. the landscape we feel as if Canada. We also learn much The beginnings of Alpinism in some memorial should be about the origin of the original Canada are yet to be fully heard preserved of our visit here, Alpine Club of Canada. and faithfully retold, but when and we organize a Canadian we turn to Grant, Fleming and Alpine Club. The writer, as a It should also be noted that the Belden brothers, we have George Munro Grant was the edi- surely turned to the literate and grandfather, is appointed in- tor of Picturesque Canada: The artistic origins of mountaineer- terim president, Dr. Grant, Country as it Was and Is (1882), ing history in Canada. secretary, and my son, S. Hall and, in this classic of Canadian art Fleming, treasurer. A meeting and literature, George Munro was held and we turn to one Grant penned the articles on Brit- of the springs rippling down ish Columbia and the appeal and to the Ille-celle-waet and lofty lure of the peaks in Western drink success to the organiza- Canada. Picturesque Canada is a tion. Canadian classic and collectors There we have it. The first Al- item, and the sensitive approach pine Club in Canada was of George Munro Grant did much Cloudburst—December 2008 19

Literature of Interest Disaster on Mount mountaineer, Elfrida Pigou, dis- Guardians of the Slesse: The Story of covered the remains of Trans- Peaks: Mountain Canada Airlines Flight 810. It was Western Canada’s not until five months after the Rescue in the Worst Air Disaster crash (May 12 1957) that Pigou Canadian Rockies Betty O’Keefe & Ian Macdonald was able to find the shattered and Columbia (Madeira Park: Caitlin Press, shards of metal. It was yet another 2007) BC mountaineering legend and Mountains journalist, Paddy Sherman (with Kathy Calvert/Dale Portman (Vancouver: Rocky Mountain Review by Ron Dart Fips Broda) who trekked to the Books, 2006) mountain to uncover in greater The Chilliwack Valley in the detail the victims claimed by Upper Fraser Valley is a well Review by Ron Dart Slesse and make such a story trekked and climbed terrain with known to the larger world. rock ramparts and stone citadels The ancient sentinels in the Ca- raising their time tried heads in nadian Rockies and Columbia Disaster on Mount Slesse has all directions. There are more Mountains have their romantic many fine photographs in it, and hikes listed in the Chilliwack appeal, but sadness and tragedy the combination of text and visual Valley than any other in 103 awaits those who are naïve, un- insight make for a read that will Hikes in Southwestern British prepared or victims of the harsh not be easily forgotten. O’Keefe Columbia (5th edition). Scram- side of the summits and rock and Macdonald, in rare but me- bles in Southwest British Colum- slabs. ticulous journalistic fashion, have bia walks the extra mile to high- brought the horrific air crash to light the many challenging Guardians of the Peaks tells the life, and, by way of conclusion, scrambles down the Chilliwack tale, in a historic, vivid and vis- updated the story of the disaster in Valley Road. But, on December ual way, of those that have lived the final few chapters. There is a 9, 1956, black fanged Mount the drama of mountain safety, discussion on the hard work to get Slesse in the Chilliwack Valley and how the Canadian tradition a site preserved and a memorial claimed all the lives (62) of of mountain rescue emerged. plaque put up in a couple of loca- those on Flight 810. The book is a must read and tions. keeper. Much is packed into the

Disaster on Mount Slesse un- twelve compact chapters. Do Those who have hiked to the up- folds this graphic tale and grue- purchase this classic recounting per level of Slesse where prayer some tragedy in a compelling of how the guardians of the flags still flutter on propeller and most readable manner. The peaks have made mountaineer- wings, and the water cascades initial chapters prepare the ing much safer than it once was down the sheer face of Slesse can- reader for the impending storm, a few decades ago. not but ponder the final few min- and the following chapters, un- utes of the crash. The Epilogue: ravel in sobering detail, the dete- Canadians should be proud of Another Mountain Claims Elfrida riorating weather, the driving their mountain rescue heritage, Pigou, perhaps fittingly so, pon- winds and snow, the lost com- and Kathy Calvert and Dale ders the fate and death of the munication between airplane and Portman make it more than clear woman who discovered the wreck airport in Vancouver, and the why this is the case. on Slesse. search and rescue operation that took place in December 1956. Don Forest: Quest for Disaster on Mount Slesse is a

must read for those interested in the Summits The Introduction, the fast paced airline tragedies, the difficulty of Kathy Calvert twenty-six chapters and the Epi- winter search and rescue opera- (Vancouver: Rocky Mountain logue recount how and why the Books, 2003) tions and a history of early moun- rescue operation was finally de- taineering legends in BC and the serted in the snow deep and Review by Ron Dart Chilliwack Valley. Do purchase wind swept Chilliwack Valley, and read this keeper of a book. and how, in the spring of 1957, a There are those that have come You will read it in one sitting, and climbing expedition in the Slesse early to the summits. Then, like be more than keen to pass it onto area, led by the well known BC Don Forest, there are those that others. 20 Federation of Mountain Clubs

have not taken to the mountains Don Forest was the first Canadian Journey won the Governor Gen- until their forties, and yet, in the to do all of the 11,000 ft. peaks in eral’s Award for fiction. By then latter years of their life, they the Canadian Rockies. Bill Cor- he had become part of the Cana- abound with commitment to the bett has also accomplished such a dian canon—‘David’ alone peaks. challenging task, and— would have ensured that-and The11,000ers of the Canadian was seen as an important figure Don Forest was the first to climb Rockies tells, in varied detail, how in what might be called the for- the fifty-four 11,000 ft. summits each of these peaks can be mation of a Canadian literature. in the Rockies, and his daughter, climbed. Kathy Calvert tells, in a most Sam Solecki ‘Foreward’ readable way, the tale of her fa- The description of each of the One Muddy Hand ther’s passion for the peaks. Don summits, the various routes to Forest: Quest for the Summits them, and alluring photographs of There is no poem in the history is a delight of a read, and the each of the summits (with some of Canadian mountaineering lit- many photographs of Don For- history of various ascents) makes erature as graphic, poignant and est, his family and many moun- this the best book out at the pre- dramatic as Birney’s taineering friends adds to the sent time on the 11,000ers “David” (1940). Birney’s first biography a visual treat. of the Canadian Rockies. collection of poetry, David and Other Poems (1942) catapulted Don Forest was an inspiration to Those that aspire to the heights, Birney to the forefront of Cana- many. The fact that he began snow clad summits and rock chal- dian literature, and won the Gov- mountaineering later in life, and lenges can learn much from Bill ernor General’s medal. the equal fact he did so much in Corbett’s easy to read overview his latter years, offers much of the 11,000ers in the Most Canadians were read, ei- hope to those that come to the Rockies. Those who prefer not to ther in school or in family set- rock hard citadels and snow take to such places can still enjoy, tings, “David”. The sheer mo- clothed summits on the final leg by reading the book, some of the mentum, vivid descriptions of of the journey. beauties of the Rockies. mountain scenery, challenging ascents and the final, fatal climb Don climbed Mount Logan in One Muddy Hand: of ‘the Finger on the Sawback’ are etched deeply into the souls his early seventies, and his Selected Poems: Earle pleasure in the summits rarely and imaginations of most Cana- wavered. Don Forest: Quest for Birney dians. the Summits is more than Editor, Sam Solecki worth the few coppers that are (Madeira park, BC: Harbour Pub- I remember, quite distinctly, dropped into the coffers for a lishing, 2006) hearing Birney read “David” in purchase. Don has now passed the public library in Lethbridge Review by Ron Dart in the winter of 1978. It was an into Canadian mountaineering University of Toronto Libraries myth and legend. He died, as he experience not to be missed. The probably would have wished, tale so well recounted by Birney while in the mountains with his conjured up the reasons why family. He lay down for a break many take to the white and rock in the snow, had a heart attack hard sentinels, the many dangers and left this earth. Do read Don of heading to such places, and Forest: Quest for the Summits. the tragedies and hard decisions Much can be gleaned from this often posed to those that falter motherlode of a mountaineering and fall. And then, of course, Earle Birney missive by the daughter of a fine there was the controversy about “David”. Canadian Earle Birney (1904-1995) began mountain man. writing poems when Robert “David” is ‘one of our few un- Service, Stephen Leacock and doubted classics’, and both Lucy Maud Montgomery were The 11,000ers of the mountaineering literature and bestselling authors throughout the Canadian Rockies literature in Canada would be English-speaking world, and he Bill Corbett much leaner and thinner without published his final collection, (Vancouver: Rocky Mountain such a probing and demanding Last Makings, in 1991, the year House: 2004) poem that asks much of the Rohinton Mistry’s Such a Long Review by Rob Dart reader. Cloudburst—December 2008 21

We should be more than grateful sionate convictions, and he is also Mathews then moves on to tell for the publication of One one of the finest Canadian politi- the bigger tale about he, Max Muddy Hand: Selected Poems, cal poets. Few know that Robin and their journey into Garibaldi of Earle Birney. Many of Bir- grew up in Powell River. There Park. In a letter from Robin, he ney’s best and most evocative are even fewer that know that said, ‘the event that sparked it poems are in this fine selection. Robin’s brother, Tony Mathews (‘Climber’) was in (1926-2005), was an important 1956/7’ (November 5th/05). “David”, of course, holds a high mountaineer in the Powell River place in One Muddy Hand, but area. Tony was a founder of ‘the Part II of ‘Climber’ begins this so do other mountain poems by BOM Squad’. The BOM Squad way. ‘I was planning a trip into Birney. “Daybreak on Lake (Bloody Old Men) opened up the coastal mountain range be- Opal: High Rock- many of the trails in Powell hind the city of Vancouver with ies”(1946/1970), “Takkakaw River, and Tony climbed most of two friends. We promised one Falls”(1950) and the peaks in such a magical and another we would climb a gla- “Climbers”(1950) are but three alluring place where ocean and cier in Garibaldi Park to give our other poems in this collection rock meet in an intimate and close trip a focus, a reason for being. that deal with Birney’s fascina- way. We poured over maps and sorted tion and attraction to the moun- stores as amateurs will do, three tains. There are even some re- Most do not know that one of Canadians, and then Max. But flections by Birney on “David” Robin’s earliest short stories deals Max was no amateur. He was an with the connection between American’. Wailan Low, in her mountaineering, climbing and ‘Biographical Note’, mentions politics on the West Coast. Mathews’ two Canadian friends that ‘As a boy in Banff, Earle ‘Climber’ was published in the drop out of the trip, and he is left came to know mountains and prestigious Queen’s Quarterly in alone, with Max, to plan and climbing’ (p.14), and ‘He 1964. The nationalist debate that take the trip. Max takes total climbed regularly with his emerged with the Massey Com- control of the planning and or- friends’ (p.14). There is no doubt mission in the 1950s was about to ganization, the vision and ap- that Earle Birney, although not a erupt with greater intensity in the proach. Max seemed to know technical climber, had a passion 1960s, and Robin was front and everything about the coastal for mountains and understood, in centre in such a lively political mountains, glaciers and moun- a sensitive and poetic way, the ethos. taineering, and he made sure one delicate and fragile relationship and all were aware of his exper- between humans and mountains. ‘Climber’ is set in the Coastal tise in these matters. It did not Birney was no naïve romantic, mountain area, and Garibaldi Park take long, though, once Mathews and a meditative read of “David” is where this drama will unfold in and Max were on the trail to dis- will dispel such an attitude and all its poignancy and flair. The cover that Max knew little about approach to Nature and the hard short story is divided into three mountains and was not in the rock ridges. sections, and each section folds physical shape he should have into the next in a rather predict- been. One Muddy Hand is well worth able and readable way. the purchase. Birney was a pio- Mathews had to take the lead to neer of Canadian mountain po- Section I opens up the tale. the Alpine meadows, then etry and Canadian literature. He Mountains and mountaineering do higher. It was in the higher re- should be part of the canon of not yet enter the story yet. gions that the problems began. both. One Muddy Hand illus- Mathews makes it clear in this Mathews was a student of Earle trates ably and amply why this is short and crisp section that he has Birney in the 1950s at UBC, and the case. serious problems and reservations the reader gets the feeling that with Americans. There are Cana- another ‘David’ is in the making. Climber dians and there are Americans, Mathews takes the lead up over Robin Mathews and Mathews makes it clear in a fragile ‘snow shelf’ in which (Queen’s Quarterly 1964) this prologue of sorts that there Max refuses to tie up. Mathews are distinctive differences that ‘made a sortee to the brink, Review by Rob Dart should not be fudged or forgotten. alone. We should have been tied. Americans and Canadians might But he wouldn’t hear of it. He Robin Mathews is known by inhabit the same continent, but the was panic stricken. Then it hap- most Canadians as an ardent na- cultures are often at substantive pened….’ tionalist with intense and pas- odds. This being said upfront, The reader gets the sickening 22 Federation of Mountain Clubs feeling that, although this is a MOUNTAINS OF THE himself and the multiple voices different type of mountain tale, MIND: from those who have taken to the tragic conclusion will be the the peaks in the past. Mountains same as ‘David’. But, this is not How Desolate and Forbidding of the Mind is as much about the the case. Heights were Transformed into internal ascents, hard places, dif- Experiences of Indomitable ficult routes, worrisome cre- Part III begins a month after the Spirit vasses, long trails, fears and in- accident and fall. Mathews is Robert Macfarlane securities that dog one and all as now out of the hospital, and Max (New York: Pantheon Books, 2003) it is about the external and hard is bragging to a gathered and realities of real mountains and Review by Ron Dart grateful group of friends, about packed snow places. how he rescued Mathews and brought him to safety. Max goes Mountains of the Mind is di- O the mind, mind has mountains on and on about his heroism and vided into 9 compact and entic- Gerard Manley Hopkins nimble ability to come to the aid ing chapters: 1) Possession, 2) of the ailing and fallen Mathews. The Great Stone Book, 3) The From death in valleys preserve The real story of what actually Pursuit of Fear, 4) Glaciers and me, O Lord happed and why it happened is Ice: The Streams of Time, 5) Robert Macfarlane (p. 9) never told. ‘Climber’ ends with Altitude: The Summit and the these words, ‘I forgive you, View, 6) Walking off the Map, Have men and women, through- Max’, I said tonelessly. Then 7) A New Heaven and a New out the long stretches of human shrugging, I said, tonelessly Earth, 8) Everest and 9) The history, taken to the mountains again, ‘I forgive you Max, eve- Snow Hare. Each of these com- the way we do in our time and rything’. pelling chapters, story told well, ethos? Have white crowned draws the reader more and more peaks, rock diadems and spear Needless to say, ‘Climber’ is into the world of mountain lore spires always drawn the curious, thick with all sorts of political and legend and the reasons why energetic, skilled and interested? jabs and stabs. Mathews repre- many turn to such places. Have mountains always been a sents the moderate Canadian place of allure, delight, charm and way and Max the aggressive and Macfarlane is never shy about attraction? Or, is the passion for unreflective American way. Ob- telling his tale and trips to the the mountains and out of doors viously, these are caricatures of high regions, his conscious and hiking, climbing and glacier trav- both Canadian-American tradi- subconscious reasons for turning erses more a product of the last tions, but there is some general to such alluring and evocative few centuries? If this is the case, truth in them. Such insights do places and what other mountains why is it? And, deeper yet, what have a perennial ring of truth to have taught him about such a are the reasons them. journey. Mountains of the Mind (complicated and diverse though is also about cultural shifts that they might be) that women and ‘Climber’, unlike ‘David’, has a began in the 17th-18th centuries men take to the mountains, chal- political message and clout to it. in the west, and how such cul- lenging rock rims and high Birney would have agreed with tural shifts have converted still perched peaks? many of Mathews’ conclusions, and silent rocks into places of but his epic and classic poem on peak bagging and spiritual pil- Mountains of the Mind attempts, Canadian mountaineering does grimages. in a variety of ways, to answer not go where Mathews has gone these questions. Such abiding in ‘Climber’. Macfarlane, to some degree, fol- questions, though, are not merely lows the earlier thesis of answered from the safe confines ‘Climber’ is as much a classic in Marjorie Hope Nicolson’s of the academic and library chair. Canadian literature as ‘David’, Mountain Gloom and Mountain Robert Macfarlane, to his credit, and perhaps it is time that Glory: The Development of the attempts to scale the peaks of ‘Climber’ be placed within the Aesthetics of the Infinite (1959), such answers from a variety of canon of Canadian Literature in in tracking and tracing the inter- routes. Macfarlane is Scottish, a the same way that ‘David’ has. est in mountaineering to the 17th- climber and international in ex- Both the poem and short story 18th centuries. Many of the liter- perience and interest. He has speak much about mountains, ary clues that Nicolson has pro- taken to many peaks, and his an- mountaineering and the Cana- vided in her classic work were swers to the questions raised dian literary and political tradi- followed by Macfarlane in above emerge both from within tion. Cloudburst—December 2008 23

Mountains of the Mind. Both of Everest, and what were the convincing work of Bernbaum in Nicolson and Macfarlane are more important things he sacri- Sacred Mountains of the World. aware that mountains have ficed in the process? Macfarlane played a substantive role in clas- attempts to answer these sorts of sical cultures, but the general questions in the penultimate chap- Mountains of the Mind is a must and widespread fascination with ter in Mountains of the Mind. It is read, and for those of us who are mountains and the environment these inner mountains of the Canadians and belong to the that holds and draws many today mind, in the end, that are the most Alpine Club of Canada, there are is a new phenomenon. It is this interesting to traverse, and some interesting comments from broader interest in the mountains Macfarlane, roped well, does take Mallory about Edward Wheeler (and what it means for new cul- to such heights, the dead Mallory and the 1921 attempt to climb tural ways of seeing and being) his guide. Everest. that interests Nicolson and Macfarlane. The difference be- The final chapter, ‘The Snow tween these two, though, is that Hare’, is the most illusive and Ralph Gustafson Nicolson in Mountain Gloom compelling. Macfarlane, on the Rocky Mountain and Mountain Glory studied this peaks of a whiteout summit, shift from an academic, historic meets a snow hare. Needless to Poems (Vancouver: Klanak Press, 1960) and literary perspective, whereas say, such a meeting has all sorts Macfarlane is interested in these of mythic meanings. Macfarlane Review by Ron Dart areas, but he is equally interested allows the reader to unpack the from the perspective of the metaphor from such an occur- This must be the first book of mountaineer, also. rence. It reminds me of the time I poetry devoted to high moun- was sitting on a mountainside, tains; certainly it is the first The final 2 chapters in Moun- and 2 white deer momentarily substantially to put the Cana- tains of the Mind draw this fine appeared, approached me, then dian Rockies into the geogra- book together in a suggestive disappeared. Such moments are phy of Canadian poetry. They way. Macfarlane ponders, in quite magical, and rare is the ex- are a large subject; over- chapter 8 (Everest) why George perience. whelming and silencing. Mallory was drawn so irresisti- bly and fatally to Everest. Each If some concerns might be raised Great mountains do that. of the three trips is discussed in about this book, and there are How, in symbology or cartog- some detail, and Macfarlane am- some to be pondered, the primary raphy, put eleven-thousand ply illustrates that he has read one might be the way Marfarlane, foot peaks of ice and rock most of Mallory’s letters and like Nicolson before him, has and grandeur and challenge journals well. Why would Mal- tended to see the substantial shift into a dozen or two lines? lory leave his wife and three in the way we see mountains in Ralph Gustafson, we believe, young children for some barren the 17th and 18th centuries. Both has done this, and without rocks and hard ice and snow Nicolson and Macfarlane offer a pretension. peaks? What was the fatal attrac- fleeting nod to the Classical west- tion? What was the draw and ern tradition (albeit in a spotty Foreward history of those who had gone and questionable way), but nei- Rocky Mountain Poems before Mallory that prepared this ther delve into the deeper and young Galahad to give his life to older attitudes towards the moun- There has been a historic ten- an unforgiving and ancient slab tains in both the western and east- dency, when reflecting upon the of frigid and frozen white at the ern traditions. This much older literary very crest of the world? line and lineage can be corrected life of the West Coast, to assume ‘Everest’ is a fine chapter. by a read of Sacred Mountains of that BC culture, never truly ma- Macfarlane probes and probes the World (1990), by Edwin Bern- tured and came into its creative the mind of Mallory, and, by baum. Sacred Mountains of the best until the Beat and Counter doing so, the minds of all those World is a stunning visual tour Culture tradition of the 1960s who turn to the peaks to discover with an insightful text as a hiking arrived. Surely, there was no real the reasons for the drive to such companion. In short, the larger West Coast and authentic Cana- isolated and barren places. cultural shifts in the way we see dian literary tradition until the Why did this become both an mountains that Nicolson and Americans taught us about such addiction and tragic attraction Macfarlane linger so long at do things. for Mallory? Why did he need to need to be checked and corrected be the first to stand on the peak by the more compelling, older and The fact that Klanak Press was 24 Federation of Mountain Clubs

begun on the West Coast in the Mountain Poems is a sensitive, teau 1950s by a lively and thoughtful delicate and nuanced contempla- 6) Surrounding Points of Inter- Canadian artistic community tive missive on how to see the self est does need to be noted. It is in a deeper way and the meaning 7) Adventures at Lake Louise, equally important to recognize of mountains in a more reflective 8) Memorable Bear Encoun- that Klanak Press published one way. Poets have a way of doing ters in the Rockies of the earliest books of poetry on this, and Gustafson has done this 9) Skiing and Fly Fishing in mountains by one of the best in an appealing manner. the Rockies Canadian poets of the time: 10) Climbing and Mountaineer- Ralph Gustafson. We should be grateful to Klanak ing Adventures Press, on the West Coast, for Rocky Mountain Poems, by bringing to us one of the earliest The life of Roger Patillo and Lake Ralph Gustafson, is dedicated to collections of mountain poetry. Louise between 1957-1964 are Bett, and in many of the poems, May other presses in BC build on woven together in a most compel- set in the Rockies, the tenderness the pioneering work of Klanak ling and readable way in Lake and gentleness, between Gustaf- Press, Gustafson and mountain Louise at its Best. son and Bett, shines through poetry that speaks so well across with much light and candor. the decades since its publication. Much of the book is autobio- graphical, but, given the fact that There are 18 poems in this col- ROGER PATILLO: Roger seems to have been at the lection, and the opening poem, RACONTEUR OF THE centre of much in the late 1950s- ‘Into the Tonquin Valley’ eases early 1960s in the Lake Louise the reader into Gustafson’s ROCKIES area, we learn a great deal about meditative reflections Lake Louise at its Best: events and now passed away leg- on mountains, hiking and the An Affectionate look at life at ends and pioneers of the place. relationship between the ‘The Lake Louise by one who knew crests snow peaked above us’ it well and the dense forested floor be- Revised and Expanded 2005 Edition Many of the 2nd generation Swiss neath his feet. Roger Patillo mountain guides were still active Gustafson gazes to the white (Victoria: Trafford Publishing, 2005) (although nearing the end of their spires, and says, ‘We went on, more energetic and guiding days) Review by Ron Dart knowing There was no end to when Roger was in the Lake the majesty’. The 2005 revised and expanded Louise area. He tells many a tale version of Lake Louise at its Best of his ascents with them, and he The poetic path hiked brings into (originally published in 2000) also highlights the many treks to being such fine and exquisite brings together Roger Patillo’s the summits in the region. The poems as ‘On the Columbia Ice- insights and observations on life photographs in the book illustrate field’, ‘In the Valley of the Ten and climbing at Lake Louise from and bring into focus much that Peaks’, ‘At Moraine Lake’, ‘The 1957-1964. Patillo has made Roger has seen and done in the Walk in Yoho Valley’, ‘On many trips to Lake Louise since Lake Louise area. Yoho Pass’, ‘On Mountain Sum- 1964, but the bulk of this thick mit’ and ‘On Mount Rev- tome records and recounts, from Lake Louise at its Best is a won- elstoke’. Each poem has an Patillo’s perspective, the glory derful glimpse and snapshot into evocative appeal and allure that years at Lake Louise (and all years at Lake Louise that many welcomes many a reread. Rocky those he knew and worked with at know nothing about yet we ignore Mountain Poems concludes with Chateau Lake Louise). to our lack and peril. The book is Gustafson and Bett taking to the a long read, but for those inter- Yukon, and ‘On the Yukon Run’ Lake Louise at its Best is divided ested in a phase and season of and ‘In the Yukon’ tell such a into ten historic and thematic mountaineering and Lake Louise graphic tale well. chapters: history, Lake Louise at its Best is 1) A Brief History of Lake a must read. Patillo is a genuine There is no doubt that Rocky Louise raconteur of the Rockies. Mountain Poems is a must read 2) Getting There: A Spring for those interested in the moun- trip to Lake Louise by Train tains in more than a literal and 3) First Experiences at Lake rock jockish sort of way. This is Louise not a technical manual on how to 4) Life at the Chateau bag peaks or first ascents. Rocky 5) Special People at the Cha- Cloudburst—December 2008 25

The Canadian Patillo offers his insights and per- Landing and Kluane Lake. Like Rockies: spectives on bears and humans, the leading British climbers of the risk of the bear population in the day, Shipton and Tilman, Pioneers, Legends and True Canada, how to save the Banff they were vanguards of the “fast Tales Grizzlies, blunders and how park and light” approach to big moun- Roger Patillo users must accept responsibility tains. (Victoria: Trafford Publishing, for their own stupidity. This is one of the great North 2005) American adventures of the 20th Review by Ron Dart Those that were drawn to the few Century, and yet is relatively chapters in Lake Louise at its Best unknown to the general public. The Canadian Rockies: Pio- on mountaineering (as I was) will Bates and Washburn’s hardest neers, Legends and True Tales is be doubly treated in The Cana- live or die challenge came near a fit and fine companion to dian Rockies on many more the very end when, out of food Roger Patillo’s Lake Louise at mountaineering chapters. The and nearly worn out, they had to its Best. Much is hinted at in older history is well told, and negotiate touch and go river Lake Louise at its Best, and the many of the pioneers and legends crossings: “…in the year 2002 reader yearns for more. The Ca- tales are expanded upon in an af- (as in 1937) we know little more nadian Rockies offers the much fectionate and gracious manner. about the craft of fording rivers more that has been anticipated than men did in the Middle by the keen and eager, and We are fortunate that Roger Ages.” Their story is even more Roger Patillo has not let us Patillo now lives in Abbotsford, remarkable because the venture down. and we should, in the next few was planned and equipped as a months, have this raconteur of the four-man, innovative (for the The Canadian Rockies is divided Rockies speak at a Chilliwack time) fly-in and fly-out into nine compact chapters: 1) Outdoor Club monthly meeting. I expedition. Because of their gla- Tom Wilson: A Man for all Sea- had lunch with Roger a few cier landing travails (the highest sons, 2) Tom Boys, 3) Early weeks ago, and there is certainly then achieved in the world) it Visitors to the Rockies, 4) Early many tale he can tell. turned out to be just the two Swiss Guides in the Rockies, 5) men, faced with a daunting The Saga of Sir Edward Whym- climb, followed by an un- per, 6) A. O. Wheeler: Lion of Escape From Lucania planned, unsupported 250- the Rockies and the Alpine Club kilometre retreat. Unable to do of Canada, 7) More Exceptional – An Epic Story of anything about the single, heavy Personalities of the Rockies, 8) Survival four-man tent, other than to cut Two Mountaineering Tragedies, by David Roberts (Simon and out part of the floor, they shared and 9) Final Thoughts, Reflec- Schuster - 2002) a sleeping bag for most of the tions and Concerns. This tome is journey yet managed to remain packed with fascinating historic Review by Mike Nash lifelong friends. The book had details, oral history added interest to me having met and reflections of Roger Patillo’s ‘Escape From Lucania – An Epic Brad Washburn (then in his life. Story of Survival’ is the story of nineties) and heard him speak at Brad Washburn and Bob Bates’ a Banff Book Festival a few Those that have lived, moved epic 1937 ascent of the then high- years ago. There is a copy in the and had their being in the Rocky est unclimbed peak in North Prince George library, but this is mountains pass before the reader America, 5,226 m (17,146 ft) definitely a book worth owning like the communion of saints in Mount Lucania in the St. Elias (Jon Krakauer is quoted on the the church. The pioneers and Range, told by a seasoned writer back cover describing it as “an legends are brought to life by who was also an accomplished utterly riveting, immensely en- Patillo’s animated and dramatic climber and long-time friend of joyable read”) prose. We are walked into a way Washburn. The story is actually of seeing and doing history that three remarkable undertakings This review has been reproduced still lives, stitched together: a dramatic avia- from the February 2008 issue of and we are told much about tion adventure the North Call (newsletter of the those that lived heroic lives in at the start of the trip, the first as- Prince George Section of the ACC) the early years in the Rockies. cent of Mount Lucania, and the by permission of the author.

subsequent trek out over Mount Steele (itself only the second as- The final chapter of The Cana- dian Rockies pulls no punches. cent of that peak) to Burwash 26 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Updates History and Status of greater climbing community. registration of a conservation the Smoke Bluffs at covenant against the parklands, Over the past 20 years, the the FMCBC proposed that the Squamish FMCBC has paid annual property conservation covenant apply Monika Bittel taxes on the land from a fund only to the FMCBC land and which was established at the time those DOS lands, which include The Smoke Bluffs, a series of of the purchase. As a non-profit the climbing bluffs. “crags which are highly valued organization, the FMCBC may for rock climbing, are located im- qualify for an annual exemption A conservation covenant is a mediately to the northeast of from paying local property taxes. voluntary written agreement reg- downtown Squamish, adjacent to The FMCBC has applied for the istered against land in which the Mamquam Blind Channel. Easy exemption for 2009 and will owner promises to protect the access and high density of good likely know by early November land in specified ways. A con- climbs make the Smoke Bluffs whether successful in its applica- servation covenant is intended to one of the most popular rock tion. The exemption is at the dis- last forever and legally binds climbing crags in Canada. The cretion of DOS. future owners of the land, not first climbing routes on the just the current landowner. The Smoke Bluffs were established in Over the years the climbing com- owner of the conservation cove- the early 1970’s. There are now munity has invested a lot of time, nant can enforce it if necessary well over 400 routes on at least 20 effort and resources in the Smoke through legal action. In consul- different bluffs. Bluffs to develop it as a climbing tation with the FMCBC, two area and to protect it for future lawyers who had worked with In 1987, when housing develop- generations of climbers. In De- The Land Conservancy organi- ments threatened climbers’ access cember 2004, DOS approved the zation and had experience with to the Smoke Bluffs, the FMCBC concept of creating the Smoke conservation covenants drafted purchased three parcels of land in Bluffs Park based on a report pre- the conservation covenant so the Smoke Bluffs area for about pared by various recreational user that it ensured public access to $70,000. At that time neither the groups and the DOS. The pro- and climbing in the Smoke provincial government nor the posed park would consolidate Bluffs in perpetuity. District of Squamish (DOS) was land owned by DOS (most of the prepared to protect the Smoke actual rock bluffs themselves), the In August 2008, the FMCBC Bluffs as a rock climbing area or province and the FMCBC. The and SAS were advised by DOS to protect public access to the original park proposal envisioned staff that they were investigating Smoke Bluffs. the FMCBC transferring its land the use of by-laws to designate to DOS by April 2005, but nego- and protect Smoke Bluffs Park, The FMCBC land purchase was tiations have been far more com- instead of a conservation cove- financed by donations from the plex and slower than anticipated. nant. At the time of writing this climbing community and a The primary goal of the climbing article, the FMCBC had not re- $40,000 interest free loan from community has been and contin- ceived the draft by-law for con- Mountain Equipment Co-op. The ues to be to protect public access sideration and it is unlikely that interest free loan was paid off to and rock climbing in the there will be further progress in through fund-raising activities Smoke Bluffs in perpetuity. In negotiations until after the mu- (i.e., Bingo nights and Save the July 2006, the FMCBC and DOS nicipal elections scheduled for Smoke Bluff buttons) organized agreed in principle that the November 2009. The FMCBC by the FMCBC and local clubs. FMCBC would transfer its land to and SAS will consider the draft At the time of the purchase, the DOS for inclusion in the park in by-law when it is received, how- land was registered in the name of exchange for a nominal monetary ever both the FMCBC and SAS the FMCBC because it was the amount to cover legal fees and have reservations about the ef- only climbing organization, regis- taxes and registration of a conser- fectiveness and longevity of a by tered as a society, which repre- vation covenant against the -law to protect climbing in the sented the greater climbing com- FMCBC, DOS and provincial Smoke Bluffs in perpetuity and munity (versus a single club). lands to be included in the park. have expressed these concerns to Only a registered society can hold In January 2008, after consulta- DOS staff. title to land. The FMCBC there- tions with the Squamish Access fore holds the land in trust for the Society (SAS), which supported Cloudburst—December 2008 27

If you have any questions, com- enth pitch was unbelievably abra- Europa is now a clean 5.8, A0 ments, opinions or concerns re- sive. After the gear got covered in climb. The A0 bolt ladder was garding developments to date it, rapping down a single pitch needed to reach the crack that with respect to potential inclu- would eat halfway through an alu- forms most of the sixth pitch. sion of the FMCBC lands in minum biner or rappel device. The parallel line on Crap Crags Smoke Bluffs Park, please con- Stainless steel rappel hardware goes free but requires either a tact Monika Bittel at MBit- lasted much longer, but the effect horrifying runout or the purchase [email protected]. of the grit was still astonishing. of a number of Big Bros. Initial Over the course of the cleaning reviews have been very positive, Europa effort, over $1,500 of rappel hard- and despite not yet being in any ware had to be retired. guidebook, there have already In 2006, Jeff Mottershead started As the scope of the project be- been line-ups at the bottom and leading a VOC effort to clean came clear, the decision was belay scrums. Crap Crags, a 5.7 line up the made to clean only at night. Al- Chief. As it stood, Crap Crags though warning signs were al- Topos are available at Climb On was a climb that most avoided. ways in place during cleaning, the in Squamish or online at http:// Although it wasn’t difficult, it possibility of someone ignoring www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Europa was much more of a dirt, vegeta- the signs necessitated the shift in tion and choss climb than a rock hours. A major advantage to night Vancouver Island climb. cleaning was that it could be done Report November at any point during the week, 2008 After consultation with the while the school schedule forced Squamish Access Society, which daytime cleaning to happen dur- Peter Rothermel liased with B.C. Parks, cleaning ing the weekend. Cleaning sorties In this past month of October we began. The intention was to have became much more frequent as a have had AGM’s for the Island the route done by the time the result and averaged between two Mountain Ramblers and the Al- 2007 climbing season started, or three trips per week for the berni Valley Outdoor Club and but the crew soon found that next year. while the access issues through they had bitten off much more After 1,500 hours of cleaning by private lands is foremost in dis- than they or anyone they had Jeff Mottershead, about 700 be- cussion among Island Clubs, we consulted about the project had tween Steve Mullen, Matthew have had some fun as well. suspected. It was clear that Carroll, Madeleine Martin- cleaning the route would be at Preney, Christian Veenstra and First, I should say that the Island least as much work as any other Natalie Stafl and 400 spread Mountain Ramblers celebrated line developed in Squamish, but among about thirty other volun- their 50th anniversary and along the potential of having an enjoy- teers, and about $14,000 of worn- with it was an “Up Your Peaks” able, easy, full-height line up the out equipment, Europa was com- challenge for members and non Chief justified the anticipated pleted at first light on April 20, members alike, consisting of effort and expense. 2008. gaining ten Island summits, of

over 5,000 feet, in two years. The intention of the project was Syd Watts IMR badge awards were given to clean the best possible line, out to over twenty people, I be- rather than attempt to follow the lieve. exact Crap Crags line. Explora- tory digging found that the best On the new Executive are Mike climbing, with the best features Hordelski as President, Dean for protection, were also the Williams as Vice President, dirtiest and most heavily vege- Nicky Westarp as Secretary, tated. Chimney sections, particu- John Young as FMCBC Director larly on the fourth and seventh and Doreen Cowlin as Archival pitches, had an unbelievable & Historian. amount of choss. As the route being cleaned was more than At the 50th celebration there 50% off the original Crap Crags were many past members and line, the new route was given a most notably, Syd Watts, one of name: Europa. the founding members of the

IMR in 1958. I was impressed at The grit pulled out of the sev- Syd Watts on Mt. Arrowsmith in the 1950’s 28 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Peter Rothermel the sharpness of Syd’s recollec- niece and another young woman tions of the people and dates on a peak bagger blitz in the Mt from the beginning days of the Albert Edward area this late sum- Ramblers. He recollects as if it mer and we summited Mt Albert were yesterday. Edward, Mt Regan, Mt Jutland, Mt Frink and Mt Castlecrag. I As well there were talks given was impressed with the excellent by John Cowlin, Bob Tustin and summit registers and tubes on Bill Perry, all past presidents and most of these mountains, that are members that were involved in maintained by the CDMC. the formative years of the club and continue to the present. The VI Section of the Alpine Some were dressed in “period” Club Of Canada will have their costume, including wool knick- AGM in December, but are re- ers and weird pointy hats. ported to be going strong as one Bedwell Valley “Living Bridge” of the most viable sections in the At the Alberni Valley Outdoor country. They are maintaining an Club AGM, we had a potluck increase in membership and many Much of the park’s trails & dinner, followed by a short busi- new members are younger. This routes suffered from wind dam- ness meeting and elected Robert club offers monthly socials in the age this past winter and the Dell Gunn as president, Karen way of slide shows & talks and Falls trail, alone, had over 800 George as Secretary, Ursula offers a broad selection of educa- blowdowns, as well as bridge Knoll as Treasurer. tional offerings, as well as a di- damage. These damages through verse schedule of trips, many out the park are a huge drain on

Martin Smith geared towards new members the already small budget allo- abilities. cated for this flagship Provincial Ongoing on Vancouver Island Park. This Park has only two are access issues through pri- rangers assigned to the entire vate forest lands and over all in 250,000 hectares, so it’s no won- BC are the problems with off der that it can’t be maintained. road vehicles, ATV’s and snowmobiles, that are growing According to Canadian Parks at an exponential rate. As a fed- And Wilderness Society, our eration, we need to press the Provincial Government invests Provincial Government to li- less than $2.80 per hectare into Peter Rothermel on Crown Mountain cense off road vehicles, so that our Provincial Parks, yet reaps their license numbers can be re- over $40 in profits, per hectare. This club has been instrumental corded, when there is a legal in- This cash cow is being milked in taking an abandoned railway fraction and so the revenue from dry. right of way down the Alberni licensing can go towards the dam- inlet and creating a hike able age caused by those offenders. In the year 2011, Strathcona trail that will connect Port Al- Park, the oldest Provincial Park berni with Lake Cowichan and Lastly is Strathcona Provincial in BC, will turn 100 years old. In then further linking up with the Park updates: the year 1910, Minister for Galloping Goose Trail to the Lands, Price Ellison, led a party Province’s Capitol of Victoria. I won’t repeat the Bedwell Valley up Crown Mountain. This led to Update, as it is in another article the expansive borders of a newly I don’t have much to report on in this issue, but have a few other created park. the Comox And District Moun- items to report on. For a history of Vancouver Is- taineering Club, as I didn’t at- land mountaineering, see Lind- tend their AGM, but I am aware The marmot recovery plan is say Elms site http:// that they are working on ongo- coming along well with a record www.members.shaw.ca/ ing negotiations with Timber number of about 150 marmots in beyondnootka/ and for a recent West, regarding access to the the wild and eleven litters, this trip report to Crown Mountain, historic Comox Glacier Trail and year. As well there are about 175 see www.summit post.org. keeping it open to the public. marmots in the captive breeding program, insuring genetic diver- For the one hundredth anniver- On another note, I went with my sity. sary of Strathcona Park, let’s call Cloudburst—December 2008 29

on the government to give back so that the trail can still be safely evidence either way, that horses to our parks system, in line with used to reach Mariner Mountain will or will not be detrimental to what is gleaned. and access to the rest of the route, the Bedwell River Valley. If during low water season of sum- possible, I would like to see a Horses In The mer. copy of the Environmental Im- pact Assessment done by Aileen Bedwell Follow Up Comments were garnered and ac- Grant, as soon as it is available. Peter Rothermel cepted by BC Parks. Following is After writing an article in the my letter sent to Andy Smith, One point that John Wilson last Cloudburst, regarding the Strathcona Area Supervisor. brought up at the Courtenay proposal for allowing horses into meeting, was that the Bedwell the lower Bedwell Valley, I re- River Valley is a wildlife corri- ceived some response to my arti- June 20, 2008 dor. Wildlife values trump rec- cle. I had asked readers of the Hi Andy, reational values in the park and article to send their opinions if there is even a remote chance whether horses should or should Following are some thoughts and that wildlife values could be not be allowed into selected ar- points that I have, regarding compromised, we need to tread eas of Strathcona Provincial amending the Master Plan, as far very lightly. That said, we can Park. I only received about 14 as allowing horses into the Bed- easily cite areas where even an responses and they were pretty well River Valley and other areas abundance of hikers can displace much equally divided in opinion. of Strathcona Park: wildlife. Point in case, the Elk This does not give direction to River Valley Trail, which was me, clearly enough to form a In my opinion, the Master Plan originally elk trails, yet elk are FMCBC opinion. needs to be amended and rewrit- seldom or never seen there, at ten regarding horse use, whether least below the Landslide Lake Further, at the last Strathcona it includes horse traffic in some outfall. Recreational activities Park Advisory Committee meet- areas, or excludes horses from the can alter wildlife patterns and ing, the Environmental Impact park entirely. As the Master plan this is a given. Assessment report had yet to be presently reads, regarding horses, completed, so whether to allow the passage is too vague and re- Since we won't really know if quires definition. horse impact would be detrimen-

Peter Rothermel tal, until horses are actually in Regarding present the park, I would suggest that we horse use areas in try a two year test site period, Strathcona Park, the starting this season. areas of Gold Lake and Kunlin Lake One site could be the Bedwell that were to be used Valley from the Gail Magee as test sites for horse Bridge to the Living Bridge, as use, these have been this is as far as horses can safely a total failure as a be taken at this time. This would test plot, since there allow CWR to show how they has been little or no would use & maintain the area horse traffic in those and further, they would need to areas. This was show how they would make a Ursus Mtn from Bedwell Valley likely due to the dis- trail through a heavily washed or not to allow horses in the tance a horse would have to be out area (just before the Living Bedwell is still in limbo. trucked, for just a day ride and not Bridge). While not the full deal, from lack of interest in the study. that they are looking for, it If horses are not eventually al- would give them a chance to lowed into the Bedwell, I would While there has been much specu- physically show what they pro- like to propose that the FMCBC, lation and distant anecdotal infor- fess to do in the rest of the lower Friends of Strathcona Park, mation about horse impact, no Bedwell Valley. Clayoquot Wilderness Resort one has cited any research studies, and BC Parks partner together either in favour or against horse A second site could be the Oshi- to, at least, replace the “Living use in an area similar to the lower now, Toy, Junior & June Lakes Bridge” with a pedestrian bridge, Bedwell Valley or Oshinow Lake area in the park, through to Elsie areas. I have yet to see any solid 30 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Peter Rothermel Lake. This could be a multi-day trip on deactivated logging roads, with overnight camps. It would give the BC Horse Coun- cil and the Backcountry Horse Association a chance to show their "Leave no trace" methods. It would also be attractive in that it would be a several day desti- nation and may well attract equestrians from further afield.

We should encourage these groups to use these areas, as a test case for results of horse im- pact and we should then require them to keep accurate records of numbers of horses & riders, numbers of days on trail, length of travel, weather conditions, Mariner Mtn from Bedwell Valley wildlife spotted and any other wedge". How many people that Lastly, I would like to acknowl- pertinent observations to the test. oppose horses in the park, use edge the difficult place that BC We could provide forms that these commercial trails in the Parks staff are in, trying to sat- would be a check list, with wit- park? Is this a contradiction of isfy everybody, when emotions ness signature requirements and principals? Can we deny one are running high. As one person these survey forms could be- commercial proposal that we stated at a public meeting, "You come the basis of gauging horse might not use or agree with and are between a rock and a hard impact and mitigation, if horses then turn around and support and place". Thank you for doing will be allowed into parts of use another commercial enter- your jobs to the best of your Strathcona Park. prise, just because it suits us? abilities.

At the end of the test period, we could then revisit the possibility of extending the route areas and a longer tenure in the park.

Finally, I feel that I need to In Memoriam make the point that the issue of horses in the park or the CWR tenure application is not neces- As many people will know, Mary Macaree and Halvor sarily a "thin edge of a wedge" Lunden both passed away at the end of July 2008, in as some feel. We already have a fact within a few hours of each other. Mary was close large commercial enterprise sit- th ting adjacent to the park and to completing her 6 Edition of 109 Walks, and Halvor they have developed trails into had continued as one of BC’s most active trail builders the park, charge people fees to and maintainers well into his eighties. Mary was use them, guide paying clients FMCBC Trails Committee Chair for some years, and on these trails, restrict free pub- Halvor built bridges and sets of steps, as well as an lic use of these trails, use ma- extraordinary number of entire trails. chines to make these trails and Mary and Halvor each were quiet spoken and patrol these trails with motorized possessed a dry wit, they were knowledgeable and vehicles. This is the cross coun- always willing to help. They will be missed. try ski trail system that Mt

Washington has created in Strathcona Park, yet I have never FMC Trails Committee heard of anyone referring to this operation as a "thin edge of a

Cloudburst—December 2008 31

Island Mountain mountains the island had to offer North Shore Hikers and they wanted to explore what Ramblers celebrate was right outside their back door- 50th Year 50 years step, so they formed a new club. Lesley Bohm Bill Perry They encouraged other like minded This is the North Hikers 50th anni- climbers to join them and were versary year, which will be cele- 1958 - 2008 soon organizing and leading trips brated at a buffet dinner on No- all over Vancouver Island. vember 8, 2008 at the Ukrainian Every one likes a celebration: In 1983 the Island Mountain th from a birthday, Christmas, a Orthodox Centre at 154 East 10 Rambler’s celebrated 25 years as a Avenue, Vancouver. The current wedding anniversary, or the open- club and called the event “Up Your ing of a new store, to the first 462 members are enjoying full Peaks.” The challenge was to try schedule of hiking, cycling, and moonwalk. But how we celebrate and ascend 25,000 vertical feet or is different. A birthday can bring snowshoe trips, and ski trips more in 1983 and the peaks had to through May 18th to take advan- friends together for a party; a be over 5,000 feet. The list had to wedding anniversary can be a tage of our wonderful late snow be submitted to the committee at year. Wednesday hikes (usually quiet, romantic dinner for two; the the end of the year and a com- opening of a new store might have rated as B hikes) are also offered memorative document was given as each week and are posted by big opening day bargains and dis- well as a free copy of book called counts, but how does a mountain- Tuesday at The History of Mountaineering on www.northshorehikers,org. Back- eering club celebrate 50 years of Vancouver Island. It was a huge activities. One might say by hav- packs and car camps will follow success with 75 people achieving in summer. There is plenty of ing a special dinner somewhere or the objective. by even climbing a mountain! choice on our schedule with up to Now that the club is reaching 50 four day, trips, rain or shine, each Well, in 2008 the Island Mountain years, it is again celebrating with Ramblers of Nanaimo is going to Saturday and Sunday, with the the challenge of “Up Your Peaks,” convenience of a published meet- have been together for 50 years but the stakes have been doubled. and as a club they want to do ing place so last minute decisions This time the objective is to climb are not a problem. something to celebrate that fact. 50,000 feet, but the club has gone The Island Mountain Ramblers metric and the figure is 15,000 ver- The reputation as a fast and goal was founded in 1958 by Syd tical metres. This means 10 moun- Watts of Duncan and Harry oriented club is not always de- tains over 1,500 metres. ever, par- served, and there is a policy of Winstone of Crofton. Both were ticipants have two years to com- young, active members of the having and end-person to take plete the objective: 2007 and 2008. care of stragglers, keep the group Vancouver Island section of the The challenge is not only for club Alpine Club of Canada, however, together, and keep people from members but it is open to anyone getting lost. However, trips do they found there were too many who wants to climb. Of course they scheduled Alpine Club trips off leave on time. Telephone numbers would love to have participants join of leaders are not published on the the island. Both Watts and the club but the only stipulation Winstone loved the beautiful internet because we require an on- they have asked is for the climbers file, signed waiver, but hikers can Peter Rothermel to have witnesses sign each climb. try a few club trips before joining. Solo ascents – well they’ll take your word. We have a low cancellation rate For more information go to the for trips as we feel that a bit of Federation of Mountain Clubs of discomfort is OK for a single day British Columbia website, when there is a warm bed at www.mountainsclubs.org and fol- home. Some of us actually notice low the links to the Island Moun- birds and plants in passing! I can tain Ramblers. The climbing list personally remember 20 years of has to be sent to the: Island moun- fascinating backcountry travel all tain Ramblers, P.O.Box 691, over B.C., and can recommend Nanaimo, BC, V9R 5M2 by Octo- our convenient club to newcomers ber 1, 2008. Results will be scruti- to Vancouver, and to people who nized and participants recognized at want to join a group to hike to the club’s fall meeting in 2008. So new and exciting places! clean up those boots and begin the “Up Your Peaks” challenge. There might even be a celebratory dinner to restock your carbohydrates after the fall meeting and a few beers! Rambler Peak 32 Federation of Mountain Clubs

Gordon White’s revised version of Stein Valley Wilderness Guidebook is now available in bookstores and places that sell outdoor gear. This guidebook pro-

vides a comprehensive guide to the valley with trail and route descriptions and maps, plus information on natural and cultural history of the Stein Valley.

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Exploring Prince George - A Guide to Outdoor Safety and Survival in British Co- North Central B.C. Outdoors by Mike lumbia's Backcountry by Mike Nash; ISBN Nash; ISBN 978-1-894765-49-7; first 978-0-9783048-0-5; published in May published in 2004 by Rocky Mount Books 2007 by myself; distributed by Sandhill and republished in 2007; distributed by Books. Heritage House.

34 Federation of Mountain Clubs

The Federation of Mountain Clubs Working on your behalf

The Federation of Mountain Clubs (FMCBC) is a democratic, grassroots organization dedicated to the conservation of and access to British Columbia’s wilderness and mountain areas. As our name indicates we are a federation of outdoor clubs and our membership is about 3500 from clubs around the province. Our membership is comprised of a diverse group of non-mechanized mountain recreation users including hikers, climbers, mountaineers, skiers, snowshoers, kay- akers, canoeists and mountain bikers who all share an interest in the protection and preservation of the mountain/ wilderness environment. The FMCBC also has several individual members who are not affiliated with the club, but share our mission and accomplishments. Membership is open to any club or individual that supports our mission. In addition to the work that FMCBC does on their behalf, membership benefits include a subscription to the FMCBC news- letter Cloudburst and access to an inexpensive Third-Party Liability insurance program.

The FMCBC mandate is “to foster and promote the non-motorized activities of the membership and the general public through leadership, advocacy and education”. The FMCBC recognizes hikers, mountaineers and ski-tourers etc. to be a traditional user group and represents their rights province-wide to freely access and enjoy a quality experience in the mountains and forests of British Columbia. Our members believe that the enjoyment of these pursuits in an unspoiled environment is a vital component to the quality of life in British Columbia.

The FMCBC fulfills its mandate with a comprehensive approach to mountain recreation and conservation by: • Participating in provincial land use decision processes. • Working to positively change (and in some cases enhance) government agency policies so that non-mechanized out- door recreation opportunities are recognized and protected. • Representing wilderness as a legitimate land use and a resource of identifiable value to society. • Advocating new parks and wilderness resources, and working to maintain the integrity of existing parks and wilder- ness resources. • Advocating for continues access to existing recreational resources. • Building, maintaining and protecting hiking and mountain access trails. • Promoting hiking, rock climbing, mountaineering, ski touring and other no-mechanized mountain activities. • Educating the public on conservation issues, related to outdoor recreation. • Education its member and the public on mountain and backcountry safety and working with member clubs to ad- dress risk management issues. • Encouraging new membership in our member clubs

Acting under the policy of “talk, understand and persuade”, rather than “confront and force”, the FMCBC advocates for the interests of it s member groups. Much of this work is done through our two main committees: Trails Committee, and the Recreation and Conservation Committee. With the exception of the Executive Director who helps coordinate Committee work and advocates on their behalf, the work on these programs is done by volunteers.

The FMCBC was founded in 1971, based on a predecessor organization called the Mountain Access Committee. Since this time the FMCBC has had many success stories working on behalf of our members and the public at large. If you visit our website (www.mountainclubs.org) you can view a list of some of our successes and accomplishments we have had through the years categorized by geographical area. Some highlights include he popular Adopt a Trail program and the resolution of several land use issues through participation in various planning processes.

We continue to work towards success on new issues and projects. Much of our work these days tends to be access re- lated where we are competing with other users of the land base or in some cases a lack of investment in existing infra- structure. At the core of these projects, issues and successes (and often the grinding work that goes unnoticed) is the countless hours of time from dedicated volunteers from across the province. Without these volunteers the FMCBC would not exist. Through our committees, club advocates and general membership we have much to hope for on the trail ahead.

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Matt Gunn Member Clubs

Alberni Valley Outdoor Club http://www.mountainclubs.org/AVOC.htm Alpine Club of Canada – Vancouver Section http://www.accvancouver.ca/ Alpine Club of Canada – Vancouver Island Section http://www.accvi.ca/ Alpine Club of Canada – Prince George Section Gerry Kollmus, Ye Chu, Helen Habgood, Ed Fisher, Stephen http://vts.bc.ca/ACC-PG/ France, Lisa Thorne, Jenny Faulkner, John Sapac and Matt Gunn Backroads Outdoor Club on the BCMC Coquihalla Summer Trip 2008 http://backroadsoutdoor.ca/ BC Mountaineering Club http://bcmc.ca/index.asp Caledonia Ramblers Return Undeliverable Copies to: http://web.unbc.ca/~ramblers/ Federation of Mountain Clubs Chilliwack Outdoor Club P.O. Box 19673 http://www.chilliwackoutdoorclub.com/ Vancouver, BC Comox District Mountaineering Club V5T 4E7 http://www.comoxhiking.com Fraser Headwaters Alliance http://www.fraserheadwaters.org/ Island Mountain Ramblers http://islandmountainramblers.blogspot.com/ Kootenay Mountaineering Club http://www.kootenaymountaineering.bc.ca/ North Shore Hikers http://www.northshorehikers.org/ North Vancouver Outdoors Club http://www.northvanoutdoorsclub.ca/ Outdoor Club of Victoria http://www.ocv.ca/ Outsetters Club http://www.outsetters.org/ Valley Outdoor Association http://www.valleyoutdoor.org/ Vancouver Island Trails Information Society http://www.hikingtrailsbooks.com/ Varsity Outdoor Club – Vancouver (UBC) http://www.ubc-voc.com/ Varsity Outdoor Club – Okanagan (UBCO) http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=2322937014 Artist Lesley Bohm Bohm Artist Lesley

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