EVIA & THE 647 Karystos Linaria Bay Kalamakia © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Kastro ) on ) on Tsougria ) AREA : 4167 SQ KM 4167 SQ KM : AREA „

) ) 663 Οι ) & Enjoying sunset above Linaria Bay ( p673 Bay ( Linaria Enjoying sunset above Reef diving off Tsougria, ( p659 p659 Skiathos ( Reef diving off Tsougria, Applauding the bouzouki players above the Kastro Applauding the bouzouki on players above ), Alonnisos ), Alonnisos Hiking the high meadows overlooking ) Spotting young dolphins in the Spotting young dolphins in the Sipping local wines at the Wine & Sipping local wines at the Wine & Dining at the fish tavernas at at Dining at the fish tavernas Guided Walks National Marine Park of Alonnisos ( p666 of Alonnisos ( National Marine Park p the neighbouring islands at Skopelos ( Cultural Festival in Karystos ( p653 in Karystos ( Festival Cultural p668 Kalamakia ( p662 Skopelos ( Take the Plunge Take Fish Feast Fish Tours Wildlife Romantic Interlude Music Authentic Wine & Song

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ POPULATION: 228,752 228,752 POPULATION: HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Only a couple of hours from Athens, Evia’s busy gateway resorts get their car loads of busy gateway Evia’s from Athens, Only a couple of hours deal a good ones’), retains ‘scattered of the Sporades (in Greek, Skyros, the southernmost „ In a nation known for its magical islands, Evia and the Sporades are not exactly household are and the Sporades islands, Evia known for its magical In a nation an island at all. Joined by a short is Some would be surprised, in fact, that Evia names. bridge at Halkida,of those places that from the mainland by a narrow gulf, it’s one and separated view. seem to be hidden in full for pace is slower and the landscape pristine But across the island, the weekend visitors. and goats staring small farms and vineyards, by hill-top monasteries, dotted long stretches, coasts, many the road. Small beaches dot the west and southeast at you in the middle of crystal-clear bays that would be lined and than one or two tavernas, of them with no more and beach bars elsewhere. with matching umbrellas from locals and visitors alike. and its unique cuisine gets a thumbs up of local character, Closest to the mainland is Skiathos; once a sleepy fishing port, it now sees charter flights along with several from northern and claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, Europe, Low-key Skopelos kicksprime diving spots. back with a postcard-worthy harbour and its meadows laced with old walking Alonnisos, the of fine bays, beaches and forest trails. share – established to of Alonnisos of the group, anchors the National Marine Park most remote throughout awareness monk seal – and is a model for ecological the Mediterranean protect and the other Sporades, is certain Alonnisos, like much of Evia to yield unexpected . islanders you’ll others from the good-natured finds, some from the natural landscape, and turn. at every encounter Evia Evia & the Sporades Εύβοια Σποράδες EVIA & THE SPORADES E75 ad Amsterdam. and well asoccasionalcharter fromOslo flights 7153; Liosion260) 2½ hours, hourly),forthe Sporades.From Skyros; and toAgios (€12.90, Konstantinos alia Kymis(€13.20, 3½hours, twodaily),for Halkida Par- (€5.90,1¼hours, half-hourly); From Athens’ s u B toandfromAthens (see tic flights p669 p654 available fromAthens(see services flight northern Europe. There are alsodomestic Skiathos airportreceives charter from flights Air 648 GTIG HR & AWAY & THERE GETTING Livadia Corinth (55km) To Larisa Gulf of (51km) To Delphi (46km) To Lamia EVIA &THESPORADES Konstantinos Agios ).Skyrosairportalsohandlesdomes- VA&TESOAE • GtigTee&Aa There &Away &THESPORADES••Getting EVIA Lihada Glyfa Volos ELLADA STEREA Pagasitikos Gulf Alkyonides Oreï Peloponnese Gulf Arkitsa , there are departingto buses Agiokambos Edipsos (20km) Loutra Edipsou To the E75 Pefki Terminal Bstation Camping Rovies Peninsula Istiea Pelion Artemisio Platanias Megara Agia Anna Gulf of Strofylia Skiathos (p655) Evia Artemisio Cape (Thebes) Thiva Limni To Thessaloniki Skiathos E94 Town (85km) Vasilika (Eleusis) Elefsina Kotsikia (Glossa Port) Angeli Politika

Loutraki Prokopi ( Nea Artaki % Halkida Pilio 210 831 ATTICA ),as Skopelos

(p660) Lefkandi Psahna

Oropou Bay Town Skopelos Skala Alonnisos ATHENS Mt Dirfys (p664) (1743m) Camping Katheni /domesticmain.htm; Thermopylon 6-10, Piraeus). Minoan Lines Minoan 2,Piraeus) &Kantharou AktiMiaouli .gr/gaferries; companies: ally available inlate April fromthemainferry Evia to the mainland. rades, aswellfive ferry routes connecting ferries totheSpo- weekly from Thessaloniki both Agios andVolos, and Konstantinos There are dailyferries totheSporadesfrom Ferry Evia. for 45minutes), (€2,onehour,every to Rafina opposite Areos Park, there are frequent buses Athens’ Evia Updated summerferry are timetables usu- Steni Amarynthos Agia Marina Dio Adelphi Hiliadou Paralia Rafina Gulf of Mavromateon terminal Mavromateon Evia Neohori Kymi SPORADES

Dhistos GA Ferries Ohthonia Petalia ( Lake Gulf % Paralia Kymis Lepoura Boufalo Porto 281 0330301; www.ferries.gr/minoan Petali Krieza Kalamos Styra Nea Marmari

12miles 20km 0 0 ( Dimosari Gorge Zarakes % Styra Kallianos 210 4511720;www.ferries Lenosei Karystos A EGN S EA

lonelyplanet.com ( Skyros Town % Myli (1398m) Platanistos Mt Ohi 210 8808080) Skyros (p670) Linaria Epanohori Kafireas Cape Potami and , lonelyplanet.com (€5.10, 1½ hours) viaIoni. ToVolos,there ens’ from Ath- There isanhourlytrainservice Train Destination Origin SPORADES THE TOEVIA&HYDROFOIL CONNECTIONS ( p254 hydrofoil bookingofficeslocated inVolos 45) lenicseaways.gr; AktiKondyli&Etolikou2,Piraeus GR-185 from aretimetables usuallyavailable inlate April Alonnisos only).Updated summerhydrofoil northern Sporades(Skiathos,Skopelosand both Agios andVolostothe Konstantinos There are frequent dailyhydrofoil linksfrom Hydrofoil (Paralia Kymis)–Skyros Evia Skiathos–Skopelos/Alonnissos Konstantinos–Skiathos Agios Volos–Skiathos prices fromthe main ports: the priceforoneperson. Someone-way Gos 1h €55 2-3 daily €25.50 3-4 daily 1¾hr 3-4 daily €31.50 2¼hr €24.50 3-4 daily 1¼hr Glossa €31.50 2-3 2-3 daily daily 2½hr Skopelos 2 daily €35.40 Skiathos €26 2½hr Alonnisos €36.50 1½hr 3hr Skopelos Volos Skiathos Alonnisos Agios Konstantinos . The timetable isalsoavailable. Thetimetable fromlocal Car ferry pricesareCar three roughly times Soeo 3h €89 1-2 daily 2 daily €18.90 4-6daily €14.70 hourly daily 3½hr 1-2 1-2daily daily 2½hr €6 €1.40 10-12daily €18 €31.60 €8.30 Skopelos 4-6daily ferry) 2daily(jet Skiathos weekly €1.50 25min 1hr 2½hr 3½hr €17.70 €36.50 1¾hr €2.10 6hr 35min Evia(Marmari) Evia(Eretria) 4½hr €18.90 2 Volos Alonnisos Skiathos Thessaloniki Evia(LoutraEdipsou) Skopelos 4hr Skiathos Oropou Skala 45min Glyfa Evia Skyros Rafina Evia (Paralia Kymis) weekly Arkitsa Evia(NeaStyra) Alonnisos (Agiokambos) Agios Konstantinos Agia Marina 25min €1.50 Destination Origin Duration Fare 8-12 Frequency TOEVIA&THESPORADESFERRY CONNECTIONS daily Larisis station Larisis ad go osatns (p247). Konstantinos Agios and ) Hellenic Seaways (€60) EVIA ••CentralEvia EVIA

( % uainFr Frequency Duration Fare

210 5248829) ( % (€25) (€65) 210 4199100;www.hel (€18-22) toHalkida August 2007 forest fires, especially between scorched hillsidesfromthe you maystillsee exceptional. is worth exploring, and thebeach atKalamos are branch roadstothesea Kymi. Several whereLepoura, theroadforksnorthtowards villages dotthe route until thejunctionat Further on,astringof hamletsandfishing a bustlingresort andmajor archaeological site. veers south, followingthecoastlinetoEretria, After crossingthebridge toHalkida, theroad EVIA CENTRAL has eludedobservers since Aristotle. fullexplanation whose times daily,anevent in thechannel reverses direction aroundseven nect theislandtomainland.Thecurrent Halkida,Channel totheisland’scapital, con- as ashortbridge over thenarrowEvripous coast. Anumberof ferry connections,aswell fromthegentler andresort-friendlycliffs west south, dividingtheisland’sprecipitous eastern beaches. spinerunsnorth– Amountainous archaeological findsandmostlyuncrowded roads,challengingmountain treks, unusual foreign tourists.Itsattractionsincludescenic tination forGreeks, remains lesscharted by island after andaprimeholidaydes- ( Evia EVIA and oneintercity train(€20.70, 4½ hours). are normaltrains(€11.30,5½hours) several Along the coastal roadsouthofAlong thecoastal Eretria eh -vih-ah), Greece’s second-largest ΕΥΒΟΙΑ

649 EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES toric, RomanandHellenic finds fromEvia’s siou &Venizelou) Karoni 21;s/tr/ste Karoni Karystos (€10.10,three hours, three daily). Edipsou (€9.20, 2½hours, oncedaily)and Limni (€6.80,two hours, three daily),Loutra toSteni (€2.60,onehour, twicedaily), buses theSkyrosferry.Kymis tomeet There are also hourly), oneof which continuestoParalia hourly) andKymiTown(€7.30,two hours, Eretria (€1.80,25minutes, hours, half-hourly), From Bus THERE &AWAYGETTING looking the harbour. onthemainlandsideofplace, set town,over- inthistransporthub,headforsmart night your connections require over- youtostay Hara Hotel EATING & SLEEPING Stavroula. Aone-daydive costs about €40. off theAlykes coast,ledbydive team Nikosand h The ACTIVITIES police the Temple of Dafniforos at Eretria. Karystos, including thetorso of Apollofrom three ancientcitiesof Halkida, Eretria and €2; Museum have buses, between alookatthe ifyouhaveHowever, anhourorsotospare ficient note towarrantanovernight stay. agricultural town,butwithnothingof suf- in Greek). Todayit’salively industrialand ured here inantiquity( The namederives fromthebronzemanufact- colonies dotted aroundtheMediterranean. city-stateinancienttimes,withseveral tant Halkida (alsocalledHalkis) wasanimpor- pop 54,558 Halkida north coastlinetoParalia Hiliadou ( opposite roadleadswestabove mountain passable the fires, resulting intragicloss of life. villagesfys, several were bythe devastated Inland, inthedirection of Steni andMtDry- the smalltownsof AmarinthosandAliveri. 650 From the hillside town of Kymi, a rough but From thehillsidetownof but Kymi,arough For emergencies, calltheHalkida h 9am-1.30pm &5-9pm) Sport ApollonScubaDivingCentre Sport VA • eta va ••CentralEvia EVIA

( 8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) Halkida station Halkida %

( % Χαλκίδα

22210 77777) ( % 22210 60944;Leoforos Venizelou 13;admission , buses runtoAthens(€5.90,1¼ , buses € 22210 76305; www.harahotel.gr in Greek; 22210 76305;www.harahotel.gr 50/80/110, d60-70; inHalkida organises dives .

( % halkos 22210 22640;cnrPapanasta- . Itdisplaysprehis- means‘bronze’ pa ( % Archaeological Archaeological 22210 86369; 22210 86369; ) Should tourist tourist ). h over tothemainland.Westof theacropolis northern endof town,there are splendidviews From thetopof the SIGHTS Cafe-Bar Internet Christos ( For emergencies, calltheHalkida INFORMATION the Turkish. in the1820sbyislanders fromPsara fleeing philosophy. Themoderntownwasfounded time powerandhometoaneminentschool of weekends. AncientEretria wasamajor mari- families whopackitsfish tavernas onholiday and alively boardwalkfilledwithmainland the first placeof interest, withasmallharbour Heading southeastfromHalkida, Eretria is pop 3156 Eretria €33.10, 4½hours, three daily). (normal €12.90,5½hours, sixdaily;intercity hour, three viaIoni daily)andtoThessaloniki, €5.10, 1½hours, hourly;intercity €9.40,one make theruntoAthens,viaIoni(normal mainland sideof thebridge. Frequent trains The Train 48; mains€4-9) cool oneatthebeach bar. Pong andminigolf whilemumanddadsipa isidealfor kidswhocanplayPing- setting thepalmtreea 20mcauseway, andbungalow Tucked awayonanearbyisletconnected by island.com.gr; s/d/finclbreakfast €50/60/95; restaurant, bar andnarrowpebblebeach. coast 1kmnorthwestof Eretria hasasmall This clean,shaded camping groundonthe campsitesperadult/tent€6/4.50) -evia.gr/index_en.html; Camping Milos EATING & SLEEPING 50m furtheratthe to thefascinating ancient Eretria. A200mwalkwillbringyou Tue-Sun) Eretria by,the actors. Close bywith asubterranean passage onceused are theremains of apalace,temple andtheatre % Taverna Astra Hotel Island ofDreams 9am-1am) 22210 77777) Halkida trainstation Halkida

contains well-displayedfindsfrom contains ( % Ερέτρια 22290 62206;admission€2; onthewaterfront. Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Justpast thesupermarket, this

( . Forinternet access,headto %

( % /fax 2229060420;www.camping-in House ofMosaics Sanctuary ofApollo Sanctuary 22290 64111; Arheou Theatrou 22290 64111; Arheou Archaeological Museum of Museum Archaeological ( ancient acropolis ( %

( % % 22290 61224;www.dream 22210 22386) 22290 61604;perhr€2; h

tourist police tourist pai , andends 8.30am-3pm isonthe . , atthe )

climb up and lemonjuice taramasalata ( priced fresh like fish,alongwithappetisers busy waterfront taverna isknownforwell- Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com built on a cliff 250mabovebuilt on a cliff Things thesea. The untouristy, workaday townof Kymi is pop 3037 Κύμη Kymi & Paralia Kymis from locallygathered greens. prepared alongwithsalads lamb withcheese, tional oven-ready dishes like thepopularroast eateries, thistaverna offers grillsandtradi- best andmostattractive among10brookside and stream. pine furniture andbalconyviewsof the forest carpetedtwo hotels. rooms, It hascomfortable bus terminal, thisisthebestvalueof Steni’s Conveniently located 50muphillfromthe Dirfys Hotel EATING & SLEEPING of thebeach. free shelter nearthebigrocksateitherend few domatiaandtavernas. canfind Campers beach,a finepebble-and-sand alongwith grove of maple andchestnut trees borders Paralia Hiliadou published byAnavasi (No5.11). An excellenttopo/hikingmapof ( the information, contact ends 2228025655;perperson€12) contact Steni tothe summit.Forrefuge reservations, trekkers shouldallowabout sixhours from it’s asteep 7km tothesummit.Experienced be reached alonga9kmdirtroad.Fromthere, The mountain. and shadyplanetrees. villagetain of Steni, withitsgurgling springs From Halkida, it’s31kmtothelovely moun- pop 926 Steni pou (€1.40,25minutes, hourly). Ferries travel Eretria between andSkalaOro- Ferry THERE&AWAYGETTING % Taverna Steni Orea roadcontinuesfromSteniA rough to Steni pointforaserious isthestarting 22210 25230, 22280 24298; Angeli Gouviou 22, Halkida). 22210 25230,2228024298;AngeliGouviou22,Halkida). Στενή & Stamatiou Mt Dirfys

Παραλία ( % o te ot cat wee a where coast, north the on 22280 51217;s/dinclbreakfast €30/40) purée of oil potato, fish roe, ) Dirfys Refuge Dirfys .

( ( (1743m),Evia’s highest %

%

weekdays 6972026862,week- 22280 51262;mains€4-8) Κύμης . Formore hiking Halkida AlpineClub Halkida , at1120m,can EVIA •• Northern Evia ••Northern EVIA Mt Dirfys The is

fresh fishandoven-ready dishesandsalads. There’s alsoagood swimmingbeach (Paralia date hydrotherapyand physiotherapy centres. the townhastwo of Greece’s mostup-to- further awayfrom itsthermalsource. Today ogy required tocarrythewater furtherand years tiedtothe improving hasbeen technol- Sylla. Thetown’sgradualexpansionover the dippers have and includedAristotle, Plutarch celebrated sinceantiquity.Famous skinny therapeutic sulphurwaters, which have been The classicsparesort of pop 3600 Edipsou Loutra Agiokambos. at north to heads southwesttopicturesque At Strofylia, 14kmbeyond Prokopi, aroad the pilgrimage church of bling andwoodsyvillage of pineforestsand twiststhrough totheram- interior of northernEvia. Theroadclimbs scenicmountainous the gateway tothehighly From Halkida aroadheadsnorthto EVIA NORTHERN just belowthesquare inKymi. mincedlamb), tery macaroniandseasoned good lambgrillsand €4-7.50) ( ouzeries dock forSkyros. rooms. It’sconveniently opposite theferry ernous white blockwithlarge andspotless trythereliableacav-the night, Hotel Beis, s/d inclbreakfast €40/60; Beis Hotel EATING & SLEEPING the Pap smeartest. born DrGeorge Papanikolaou, inventor of including adisplaycommemoratingKymi- tion of localcostumesandhistoricalphotos, the mainsquare, h departure pointforferries toSkyros. harbour ontheprecipitous eastcoast,andthe Kymis), 4kmdownhill,istheonlynatural to life. Theportof Kymi(calledParalia perk upatduskwhenthetownsquare comes % Taverna ToBalkoni The excellent In Paralia Kymis,astringof tavernas and 10am-1pm &5-8pmTue-Sun) 22220 22641) Head tothisfamily-styleeatery for linesthewaterfront. Try

( % Loutra Edipsou 22220 22604;fax29113;Paralia Kymis; , neartheportandpopularfor Folklore Museum Folklore Λουτρά

has animpressive collec- pa

( % pastitsio andtheferry port , 30mdownhillfrom 22220 24177;Kymi;mains If you need tospend Ifyouneed ) Loutra Edipsou St JohntheRussian

Αιδηψού Prokopi (layers of but- (

% Taverna Spanos Limni 22220 22011; , homeof Psahna , then has 651

. , EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES .thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos2;d/ste€280/500; arcade next to arcade next the policestation. h psari plakipsari like 23852; mains€3.50-8) sea. ceilingsand clearviewsto with high the you’llfindelegant designerrooms to stay, along withitsbeautytreatments. Ifyouwish s wood ceilingsandbalconyviewsof the sea. spa withold-worldcharm, large tiled rooms, friendly Kentrikon isacombinationhotel and 14;s/d/tr€42/60/70; hotel.com; 25thMartiou minute hydrotherapy baths. Winston Churchill. TheAegli alsooffers 20- by,includingGreta Garboand who passed rated withframedautographs of luminaries rooms are andthelobbyisdeco- immense, holdover fromthe1930s.Thehigh-ceilinged charm andvalue,youcan’tbeatthisneoclassic 18;s/d/trfrom€25/35/45; 22886; Paraliakis drop about 20%. rates low-season son, 15JulytoSeptember; Prices here reflect summersea- the higher EATING & SLEEPING bodywraps,from to seaweed around €70. health andbeautytreatments, frommudbaths befitting itsname,andoffering awiderange of 2) & Spa bath treatments ata start modest €7. and terrace overlooking Whirlpool thesea. with palmtrees andwithalarge outdoorpool St37; March Centre therapy-Physiotherapy resort’s twobest-knownspasisthe The more of relaxing the (andaffordable) ACTIVITIES Centre Medical Lan Arena Dr Symeonides INFORMATION thermal waters, which spillinto the sea. Loutron), heated year-round thankstothe 652 speaking speaking doctor.Greek-Cypriot , withasomewhatlate-Roman ambience The otheristheposh Captain Cook Self-Service Restaurant Restaurant CookSelf-Service Captain Kentrikon Hotel o Thermae Sylla Hotel &Spa SyllaHotel Thermae 9am-midnight) Just opposite the ferry port, inasmall 9am-midnight) Justoppositetheferry port, ) Thisposhspaoffers accommodation yemista VA • otenEi Evia ••Northern EVIA

( % h ( 22260 60100;www.thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos % Hotel Aegli Hotel (baked fish)or ahearty (stuffed tomatoes andpeppers), tomatoes (stuffed 7am -1pm &5-7pm1Jun–31Oct) ( 22260 22597;internetaccessperhr€3; ( % % Filluponoven-ready dishes (

% 22260 23220;Omirou17)English- 22260 53311;Istiea) /fax 2226022502;www.kentrikon

( % 22260 22215;fax

( Thermae Sylla Hotel SyllaHotel Thermae %

( % 22260 60100;www 22260 23501;25 ai as

pai , speckled EOT Hydro- ( % psaro- 22260 The For ) ) onto abusywaterfront of cafésand tavernas. andnarrowlanesspillingwashed houses tle itsmazeof white-Limni facesseaward, One of Evia’s mostpicturesque ports,lit- pop 2072 Limni 10 to 12 daily). toLoutraEdipsou(€2,40minutes, Arkitsa to12daily)andfrommainland utes, eight land GlyfatoAgiokambos (€1.50,25min- The Ferry hours, dailyat10am via Glyfa). (€21.30,five andThessaloniki Arkitsa) Athens (€11.80,3½hours, three dailyvia Halkida (€9.20,2½hours, dailyat4pm), mou) From the Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING €10 per head. zucchinistuffed flowers andwineforabout puts together afew plates of grilledsardines, €4-8) tery, 200msouthfrom the port. soupa At these humble domatia At these ble beach, 12kmnorthwest of Limni. Rovies sits justabove alovely sand-and-peb- p campsitesperadult/tent €6/3.50; .com/evia-holidays.html; Camping Rovies EATING & SLEEPING a goodtaverna underthe trees nearby. generally openfrom9amto6pmdaily, with the Righteous intoParadise church) meritalook,especiallythe andfrescoes in its mosaics Limni onahillsideabove theroad.Thefine century for walking,youcanvisitthesplendid16th- ited, Limniiswellworth a stopover. vis- looms, costumesandoldcoins.Seldom local archaeological findsalongwithantique just 50mupfromthewaterfront, features admission €2; The town’scultural Zaniakos Domatia With yourowntransportorapenchant Taverna Aegli ) , 250m up from the port, buses runto , 250mupfromtheport,buses Attractive, shadedandwell-tended This seaside extension ofThis seaside theHotel Aegli ferry (fish soup) at this popular seaside ea- (fishsoup)atthispopularseaside Λίμνη Convent ofGalataki Convent ( bus station % h Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 22260 31107) 9am-1pm Mon-Sat,10.30am-1pmSun)

( ( % %

( 22260 22215; Paraliakis 18;mains 22260 22215;Paraliakis % 22270 71120;www.campingevia

( % museum 6977936698; s/d€20/25; 22260 22250;Thermopota- runsfrommain- , , 8kmsoutheastof notmuch English . Theconvent is katholikon

( % 22270 31900; Entry of (main a ,

) rade of villagers, alongwithexcellentGreek waterfront taverna andenjoythepassingpa- Olive trees andbougainvilleasurround10 aptinclbreakfast from€90; dayshop.gr/tapetrina; quiet andoverlook the village. butthe roomsareis inevidence, spotless, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com bet, 5th-century-BC gravebet, 5th-century-BC stelae depicting stone plaque written intheHalkidian alpha- age, includingtiny Neolithicclaylamps,a documents thetown’s archaeological herit- ( Peloponnesian Wars. The and wasapowerfulcity-state during the Karystos ismentionedinHomer’s SIGHTS Tours South Evia Cafe &Sports Polihoros Internet INFORMATION Gorge.Dimosari pointfortreksthe starting toMtOhiandthe faces thebayandboatharbour. Karystos is The town’scentralsquare, Plateia Amalias, is thebestof southernEvia’s resorts. coastal and flanked beaches, Karystos bytwosandy onthewide Set Karystos belowMtOhi, Bay pop 4960 Karystos ofnear thebase MtOhi(1398m). rows untilitreaches atKarystos Bay, thesea catch viewsof bothcoastsastheisland nar- south, you’llpasshigh-tech windmillsand egrets andotherwetlandbirds.Continuing Dhistos,ashallowLake lake bedfavoured by off atKrieza,3kmfromthejunction,leadsto southtoKarystos.to Kymi,theright Aturn- theleftforkleadsnorth branches at Lepoura: Continuing eastfromEretria, theroad EVIA SOUTHERN (anchovies). likestandards souvlaki, €3.50-8) northwest of Limni. the roadfromapoolandgoodbeach, 1km apartmentsacross handsome self-catering Kriezotou 132;internetaccessperhr€4; Kriezotou Next to the Galaxy Hotel. totheGalaxy Next and Dimosari Gorge, plus bookings andaccommodation. Gorge,plusbookings and Dimosari mapsandexcursionstoMtOhi island information,walking PlateiaAmalias7)Helpswithlocaland [email protected]; % Ostria Apartments Apartments Ostria Taverna Platanos 22240 25661;admission €2; Pick an outside table atthisinviting Pickanoutsidetable Κάρυστος ( %

( 22240 25700;fax29011; ( % % 22270 31479;Plateia;mains /fax 2227032248;www.holi mousakas h Karystos Museum Museum Karystos 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) ( % h 22240 24421; EVIA ••SouthernEvia EVIA 9am-1am) and pas gavros Iliad,

) The nameof thisboardwalktaverna means 23085) plateia scenearoundthe Check outthelate-night DRINKING atmosphere. warm grilled fresh and fish,mezedhes(appetisers) ‘In-Out’ inGreek. Localslove itforits festival, bouzouki in hand. isalsoaregularKostas, atthesummerwine (spinach pie). Thehelpfulandfriendlyowner, (fried shrimp) and homemade alongwithgeneroussauce plates of where mainsincludelambinlemon tasty restaurant, oneblockwestof themainsquare, 7.50) beachcourtyard leadstoasandy below. balconies are the off excellentvalue. Astairway andwell-appointed bright roomswithsea-view tou 3;s/dinclbreakfast €45/55; Karystion Hotel EATING & SLEEPING ( seum left schedules are available attheKarystos Mu- wine imaginable,free Festival forthetasting. with theWineFestival, featuring local every artists. Thesummermerrymakingconcludes painting, photoandsculpture exhibitsbylocal ing tothetuneof local musicians, alongwith performances andplentyof traditionaldanc- August. Weekend happeningsincludetheatre val Karystos hostsasummer FESTIVALS Gorgeguided walkstoDimosari (€20). hikes tothesummitof MtOhiandback,or forserious pick-upordrop-off taxi necessary (€30). Theowner,Nikos,canalsoarrange aroundthePetaliSkyra, andacruise Islands Roman-built 6th-century-BC cursions inthefoothillsof MtOhi,tripstothe ing carhire, accommodation,mapsandex- [email protected]) Tours South Evia TOURS century Venetian castle,the sitsoppositeand Styra. a14th- Themuseum century andAthena,anexhibitof the6th- Zeus o Taverna Mesa-Exo fromearlyJulyuntilthelastweekend in Jointhelocalsinthischeery alleyway delivers decent drinksandsounds, or (square) where drakospita ). Cavo d ( offers a range of services includ- offers arange of services

%

’ ( Oro % 22240 22391; www.karystion.gr; Kriezo- 22240 22391;www.karystion.gr;

(dragon houses) of (dragonhouses) MtOhi ( %

22240 25700;fax29091; ( % pa 22240 23997;mains€3.50-8) 22240 22326;mains€3.50- Bar Chroma Wine & Cultural Festi-Wine &Cultural Bourtzi TheKarystion’s ) drakospita spanakopita

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EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES trail conditions and maps. 6944982879) medicine and environmental awareness,medicine andenvironmental all ativity retreat with seminarsin yoga, herbal .zarkacentre.com) ( For otherhikes, check with Mt Ohiandthecoast. the foothillsbetween the villages andchestnut forests nestlingin time for a swim). be covered infourtofive hours (including Kallianos lage hamletof withviewsdowntothecoastal Karystos tothe from slave-built temples to UFO getaways. of theoriesregarding theirorigin,ranging tonshasspawnedanumber up toseveral like dwellingshewnfromrocksweighing Thediscoveryhouses. of Stonehenge- these you tothe ancient a 1½-hourhike tothesummitwillbring youcanget oftaxi, tothebase once-prized Karystian tered withgreen andblackfragmentsof the beyond Mylithere isan walk from 13th-century Frankish fortress, are ashort The ruinsof Karystos Around four to six daily). Karystos) toAgia Marina (€2.10,45minutes, There isalsoa (€6,onehour,fourtosixdaily). Rafina mari, 10kmwestof Karystos, andmainland Mar- between There isaregular ferry service Ferry toMarmari Ataxi is Rafina). about €11. to Marmari (€1.50,25minutes, forferry to to Athens(€8,twohours, fourdaily)and to Halkida (€10.10,three hours, twodaily), opposite Agios Nikolaoschurch, run buses From the Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING on thebeach bytheApollon Suite Hotel. head totheswank 654 village 4kminlandfromKarystos. Alittle % The Hikers canalsoheadnorthbycarfrom With yourowntransport,orthehelpof a With alocalmap,youcaneasilyexplore 22240 25700;fax29091;[email protected]) KAHS • etn hr wy SKIATHOS There &Away ••Getting Zarka Centre Zarka . A10kmtrailtoKallianos canusually fromNeaStyra(35kmnorthof Karystos busstation Karystos Myli isaresidential healthandcre- Castello Rosso Castello , a delightful, well-watered, adelightful, Dimosari Gorge Dimosari ferry service ferry service

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Ferries Ferries the bottomof Papadiamantis, orfrom scue beaches. secluded monasteries, hill-toptavernas andeven the trulycuriouswilldiscover picturesque to Skiathosforthesunandnightlife, but against invaders. Today,mostpeoplecome tro Peninsula asanaturalfortress served less accessible;inthe14thcenturyKas- drop. Thenorthcoastisprecipitous and beachessandy withpinetrees foraback- holiday villasandhotels, plusanumberof The rest of thesouthcoastisastringof ment andport,liesonthesoutheastcoast. mains oneof Greece’s premier resorts. Europeans,Skiathosre- ence of sun-starved Europe, notAthens.Despite thelarge pres- with incomingcharter fromnorthern flights land’s smallairport,thearrivalboardisfilled age touristsandhotel pricessoar. Attheis- and Augusttheislandisoverrun withpack- quisite beaches. Thebad newsisthatinJuly fringed coastof withex- Skiathosisblessed The goodnewsisthatmuch of thepine- pop 6160 SKIATHOS akes, Kymi between and Karystos. tucked atZar- intoatranquilruralsetting ries from SkiathostoAlonnisos, Skopelos In summer, there are hydrofoils and jetfer- HYDROFOIL Bank. Alpha lenic Seaways Limnos. to southtoCreteto Thessaloniki, andeast heading north ber, there isaferry service Septem- via Skopelos.FromJunethrough to Volos,Agios andAlonnisos Konstantinos In summerthere are ferries fromSkiathos FERRY office attheairport,not in town. (€67). mer there dailyto/fromAthens isoneflight northern EuropetoSkiathos,duringsum- As wellasthenumerouscharter from flights AIR Gtig hr & Away & There Getting Skiathos Town,theisland’smajor settle- Tickets fromeither canbepurchased ( Olympic Airlines % 24270 22204;fax22979) ( % 24270 22209;fax22750) ΣΚΙΑΘΟΣ

( % 24270 22200) lonelyplanet.com , nextto hasan at Hel- GA lonelyplanet.com Cape Ag Agios Konstantinos(57km) To Volos(45km); SKIATHOS Beach Elenis Eleni Banana Agia Beach o 1h €21 2weeklyJun-Sep 2weeklyJun-Sep 2weeklyJun-Sep 2weeklyJun-Sep 2weeklyJun-Sep 2weeklyJun-Sep €32.10 2weeklyJun-Sep €33.50 €38.10 €29.90 €29.60 4weeklyJun-Sep €21 2dailyJun-Sep €22.30 16hr 18hr 22hr dailyJun-Sep 14½hr €17.70 13hr €15 11hr 10hr Limnos 7hr Iraklio (Crete) weekly €15 €18 6hr 2½hr Mikonos 2½hr Thessaloniki Skopelos 1¼hr Alonnisos 2hr €7.50 Agios Konstantinos €8.80 daily Frequency Volos daily Fare Destination Duration FERRY DESTINATIONS FROMSKIATHOS Jun-Sep Jun-Sep Mandraki Beach Gournes Tourkovigia Cape Cape Koukounaries A EGN Koukounaries Beach Elias Beach S EA Bay Koukounaries SKIATHOS There &Away ••Getting Gournes Camping Beach Agistros Beach Beach Maratha Troulos Beach Megalos Aselinos Beach Troulos Tsimokokalo Aselinos Mikros Beach Cape Cape Ag Paraskevi Beach Sozon Moni Panagias Kehria Beach Kounistras Kehrias Bay Vromolimnos Atrium Hotel Beach Beach Kolios Kastronisia Kolios Kastro Cape Skiathos Nostos Beach Kastro Tzaneria Beach Bay Achladies Kalamaki Cape Apartments Achladies Apostolis Agios Lalaria Beach Beach Amos Megali Skiathos Town

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655 EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES on thenewport;and 23351) the ferry to/fromtheairport dock.Ataxi front, just northof BourtziIslet.To the right is in themiddleof thewater- The quay (wharf) Orientation Papadiamanti St. bars dominatingthewaterfront andnarrow shops, galleries,travel agents, tavernas and is amajor touristcentre, withhotels, souvenir and reached Thetown byashort causeway. Islet Bourtzi posite thewaterfront liestinyandinviting isbuiltontwolowhills. Op- washed houses, Skiathos Town,withitsred-roofed, white- TOWN SKIATHOS hourly). (€2,15minutes,hourly) andAchladies Bay eria andKanapitsa beaches (€3,20minutes, Water departfromtheoldportforTzan- taxis TAXI WATER €5. costs The I X A T and Skiathos Towninclude Reliable motorbike andcar-hire outletsin MOTORCYCLE & CAR to thebeaches alongthesouthcoast. stopat26numberedThe buses accesspoints 7.30amand11pm). between half-hour every (€1.20to€1.50,30minutes, kounaries Beach leaveCrowded buses SkiathosTownforKou- BUS Around Getting Skiathos from Summer Hydrofoil&Jet from purchased Hellenic Seaways. Hydrofoiland Thessaloniki. tickets canbe Volos,AgiosTown, Glossa, Konstantinos 656 Soeo on 5i €25 4-6daily €12.50 35min 2-3daily Skopelos Town Glossa 20min €28 €8 Alonnisos 1hr €14.70 (Flying Cathydrofoil) €35.30 daily 3½hr Thessaloniki 4-6 1½hr 4-6 Agios Konstantinos Volos 1¼hr Fare €25 Frequency Destination Duration daily daily 3-4 daily Heliotropio Tourism &Travel Heliotropio Tourism KAHS • kahsTw SKIATHOS Town ••Skiathos on Papadiamantis. taxi stand between thetwosmallharbours between ( % 24270 21460) Mathinos Travel Mathinos Europcar Ferry Connec

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beginning (west end) of ring road,aboveoldport. beginning (westend)ofring Papadiamanti; thesummerseason. opendailyduring Opposite theregular policestationabouthalfwayalong manti 18) per hr€2; take thefirstleft. take h office. h MEDICAL SERVICES SERVICES MEDICAL Laundry Snow White’s LAUNDRY ZoneCafé Internet Internet Enter Tours Creator ACCESS INTERNET police Tourist police Port EMERGENCY Information northern endof thenewharbour. a large church. Thebusterminus isatthe Ierarhon isabove theoldharbour,nextto inland fromopposite thequay.Plateia Trion main thoroughfare of Papadiamanti strikes bylocalfishingandexcursion boats.The used oldharbour harbour; totheleftiscurving ings and old photosdocumenting hislife. Tue-Sun) Papadiamanti; admission€1; is nowacharming grew upwith.Papadiamantis’ humblehouse draw uponthehardlives of theislanders he Alexandros Papadiamantis, writings whose century Greek novelist andshort storywriter Skiathos wasthebirthplaceof famous19th- Sights Evangelistrias) Post office POST and alongthewaterfront. and numerousATMs are onPapadiamanti ofThe NationalBank Greece, AlphaBank MONEY Papantoniou Pharmacy Hospital Health Centre 8pm) BehindAlphaBank. (as youfaceinland)isthenewersmallboat 9am-2am) From the port, walkupPapadiamanti and 9am-2am) Fromtheport, insidetheEuropcar 9am-9pm) Oppositethenewport, with asmall collectionof books,paint- h ( ( % % 10am-1am) About30mfromthepostoffice. ( ( % % ( 24270 22011;cnrPapadiamanti & % 24270 22017) 24270 21384;per30min€1; 24270 23172; ( 24270 29330;perhr€3.50; % museum ( 24270 22767; Evangelistrias 28; 24270 22767;Evangelistrias ( % ( % h % 24270 24256; 24270 22222)Atthe 9.30am-1.30pm &5-8.30pm 24270 24515;Papadia- ( %

h lonelyplanet.com 24270 23843;Plateia 8am-9pm) h 9am- 22430; www.heliogtropio.gr) otenet.gr) budget optionaroundthecornerfrompost office. s/d€45/65; Evangelistrias; Cape Kastro, Lalaria Beach andthethree Kastro, Beach Cape Lalaria four tosixhours), andusuallyincludeavisitto around theisland(€9to€20,approximately trips Excursion boatsmake full-andhalf-day Tours Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com or who often theboatsonhermotorscooter; meets try theresourceful For last-minute season, accommodation inhigh Pothos Hotel Hotel Australia Pension Lazou small pools(oneforkids). town, andfeatures aninvitinggardenandtwo ofBourtzi escapesmuch ofnoise thetraffic diamanti, theupmarket andfamily-friendly fast €105/136/150; s/d/trinclbreak- .hotelbourtzi.gr/Bourtzi-Pothos/bhome.asp; garden terrace overlooking thesea. ona with balconyviews.Breakfast isserved very traditionallystyledrooms comfortable, mansionfeaturesharbour, thisclassiccliffside breakfast from€70/80/110; ics andtraditionalwoodenceilings. rooms andhomeytouches like antiqueceram- rooms withviewsof theharbour,large bath- entry, theinvitingMeltemi hasbalconied €60/70/85; and pictures of roomsanddomatia. There’s aquaysidekioskwithinformation here are of nearlydoublethose lowseason. to theendof August,whenprices quoted Most accommodationisbooked fromJuly Sleeping mantis 18) or contact the posted daily schedules attheoldharbour, aki forswimmingandsnorkelling. Check out visit thenearbyisletsof Tsougria andTsougri- are onlyaccessiblebyboat.Afew boatsalso (caves) of Halkini, SkotiniandGalazia,which up thesteps,southofoldharbour. €40/50/100; a s/dinclbreakfast €80/90; .gr/Bourtzi-Pothos/phome.asp; Hotel Bourtzi Hotel Meltemi Hotel Also recommended: Orsa Villa Sotos &Maria ) A smart courtyard inn,30mwestofpostoffice. courtyard ) Asmart , alsohelpful inapinch. or a a Mathinos Travel Mathinos ( Heliotropio ( % ) Set wellbackbehind ashaded Set % ( ) Acleanandbasic ( % %

( 24270 22430;fax21952;s/d/fincl ais %

( 24270 22694;www.hotelbourtzi ( % % 24270 22324,6946545713;s/d/apt-f 24270 22488;fax22086; Georgia Asvesti Georgia 24270 23219, 6974716408;sotos-2@ 24270 21304;Moraitou8;www 24270 22493;s/d/finclbreakfast a a atthenewport.

Tourism &Travel Tourism Perched above theold ) A clean and friendly ) Acleanandfriendly ) (

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wraps and fresh juices. tothepostoffice,withbargainbreakfast, fasts €2-4)Next gild calamari. grilled Mouragiooffers Waterfront till around 11pm. caféonthemain drag,openfromearlymorning Reliable te waterfront. the decent drinks andthelongest happyhouron ular placetochill above the oldport,with the mood hits. and abitof beer dancingwhen eos, draught gay-friendly side-street bar,withmusicvid- the soft comingfromthishipand bluelight and good drinks. locals andexpatsalike foritsmellowambience jazz andblues,gets thethumbs upfrom Plateia Papadiamanti, rock,soul, promises andhandsome Kentavros,established off o Drinking Taverna Mouragio Dinos Street Main setting. alleyway allinaflower-filled anddazzlingsalads, pastas bread youcannotimagine,alongwithseveral garlic stuffed (rolled outbyMaria herself), mains €8-15) the morning catch. man, andmore often thannotisbusygrilling Greek wines.Thecookisadiver andfisher- outstanding phire alongwithseveral salad), and cod, lobster, mussels the harbourforitsgenerous portionsof fresh cals knowthisfinefish taverna overlooking grilled or fried calamari. port; favourites includeaheartyfish soup,and this snappytaverna atthefarendof theold Fresh fishatdecentpricesbringslocalsto eatery underacanopyof mulberrytrees. Greek musicawaitatthisfriendlyalleyway roasted chicken andlive acoustic andpotatoes, €4-9) here offer better value,andfood,thanmost. tourist tradeandare expensive. Theplaceslisted Many eateries inSkiathosare geared tothe Eating Bar Destiny o Taverna Anemos Psaradiko Ouzeri Taverna Alexandros Ice Rooftop Bar Ice Rooftop Also recommended: Excellent lambgrills,traditionaloven- Excellent ( % Kentavros Bar Kentavros 24270 23738;Papadiamantis; mains €4-8) You’llfindsuperbhandmadepizza Maria’s Pizza Maria’s ( % ( % 24270 21743;Papadiamantis; break- ( ( 24270 24172;Polytechniou)

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( 6949096465) 24270 22216;mains€6-10) % tsipouro 24270 21003;mains€6-14)

( 24270 22341; Mavrogiali; mains mains 24270 22341;Mavrogiali; % 24270 23412;mains€4-10) 24270 22980) kritamos 24270 22292;Syngrou6; -friendly mezedhes, -friendly Thisisapop- Thelong- (rocksam- Lookfor Lo- 657

EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES both withdancingdrinkers till dawn. rary Greek artists,alongwitheleganttradi- hon; h Greece. Butnowadays itscrowdedsummer by pinetrees andtouted asthebestbeach in indeed sparkle.indeed of doesthe 1200m longsweep palegold sand fromwherescene isbestviewed atadistance, along, is thepine-fringed stretch of worthgetting sand offthebusfor town, butfillsupquickly.Thefirst long cess points. coast, stoppingat26numbered beach ac- plythesouthfull-time occupation.Buses beach-hopping onSkiathoscanbecomea With some65beaches from, tochoose Beaches SKIATHOS AROUND plus Greek andAfricantextiles. made bygroomsfortheirintended brides, antiques like 19th-centuryspinning sticks shop. tional weavings, outatthisintimate stands Museum. Papadiamantis galleryshop, nexttolery atthishigh-end artists, alongwithgoldandsilver jewel- hand-painted icons,fineceramicsbyGreek padiamanti; Loupos &hisDolphins Shopping original language, not dubbed.) the few countriesinEuropetoshow filmswith time.subtitles atthesame (Greece isoneof speed-reading andpractise yourGreeka beer language movies atthisopen-aircinema,sip sion €7;beer&snacks€2-4) Cinema Attikon Entertainment 21190) new harbour. DJsare at Best alongtheclubstrippast after midnight in fewer customers rolling off. trendy butpriceybarbytheoldport,resulting have replaced manyof thepillowsoutsidethis 658 bus continuesto good butboth,alas,are very popular. The Rock &RollBar Galerie Varsakis Varsakis Galerie Archipelogos The dancinganddrinkingsceneampsup 11am-1pm &8-10pm) h KAHS • rudSito SKIATHOS ••AroundSkiathos , followedby 10am-2pm &6-11pm) Kolios Beach h 10am-1.30pm &6-11.30pm) Megali Amos Megali

( ( % % ( % ( % 24270 22352;Papadiamanti; admis- Koukounaries Beach Koukounaries 24270 22163;PlateiaPapadiamanti; and 24270 22944) Kahlua Bar Kahlua Vromolimnos Beach The workof contempo-

24270 22255; Plateia Trion Ierar- 24270 22255;PlateiaTrion Catch recent Catch English- ( % Browse forunusual Browse Troulos Beach isonly2kmfrom 24270 23777;PlateiaPa- Huge beanbags

( % BBC 24270 23205) Lookfor ( % are also , backed . Further 24270 Ευαγγελίστριας , ern end.Fourof thecrumbling town’sold to 1829;anoldcannonremains atthenorth- pirate-proof of capital theislandfrom1540 land above thenorthcoast,wasfortified Kastro, perched dramaticallyonarockyhead- Kastro Tours, (see p657 reached byexcursion boatfromSkiathosTown much featured intouristbrochures, butonly pebblesonthenortherncoast.Itis egg-shaped and 5kmfurtherontosecluded fork continues300mto Kounistras Moni Panagias (look forbusstop19),aroadheadsnorthto meltemi crowded butare subjecttothestrongsummer Thenorthwest coast’sbeachesmasses. are less tokeep itclearofpath, isjustfarenough the Beach Sandy windsurfers. with favourite get toocrowded. sunbathers) aroundtherockycornerifthings gets thebigthumbsupfromgayandlesbian to abscond ist beach, theskinny-dippers though tend a narrowheadland.Itisnominallynud- katholikon (Holy Virgin), with finefrescoes adorningits the courtyard. before above thesatellite dishwas installed and vintage barrels recalls anearlierera, long shop.Anadjacentshedofmuseum oldpresses results thetasty sample inthe of theirefforts chores, which includewine-making.Youcan monks, itnowhasonlytwomonks doing the the Warof Independence. Oncehometo70 astery wasarefuge forfreedom fighters during rounded bypineandcypress trees. Themon- above agorge 450mabove andsur- level, sea (Annunciation; teries isthe 18th-century The mostappealingof theisland’smonas- Evangelistrias Moni clamber uptotheruins. beach belowKastro, fromwhere it’saneasy are magnificent. Excursion boatscometothe churches have restored, been andtheviews and soft white liesat the othersideof sand, Also worthavisit is Beach Lalaria West of Koukounaries, Banana Beach , a1.5kmwalkalongpine-shaded Κάστρο (northeasterly winds).FromTroulos . It’s4km inlandfromTroulos. % isatranquilstrandof pale-grey, 24270 22012; Little BananaBeach , known for its curving shape , knownforitscurving ). Μονή Moni Panagias Kounistras Moni Panagias , fromwhere aright Mikros Aselinos Beach Aselinos Mikros h Agia EleniBeach Agia Moni Evangelistrias 8am-8pm) lonelyplanet.com

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Skiathos Bay below. Skiathos Bay the ringroad,excellent Panorama overlooks team, Theofanis and Eva, whoconducthalf- newharbour) -skiathos.com; DivingCentre Octopus DIVING Activities Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com who come early to catch house specialities like specialities like who come earlytocatch house run Agnantio attracts bothlocalsand tourists, h game lounge withPing-Pongandbilliards. apoolbarand facilities such assatellite TV, Perched ona pine-covered hillside,itoffers this handsomepropertythebestin itsclass. tional architecture andmodernamenitiesmake Paraskevi Beach;s/d/tr€98/130/170; 20-minute runstoSkiathosTown. beach, fromwheresandy makes awater taxi culent gardenwindingdowntoataverna and andasuc- an ecofriendly sanctuary tortoise roomswithceilingfans, offers self-catering coming gem, 3kmfromSkiathosTown.It the hand-painted yellowsigntofindthiswel- d/tr/f inclbreakfast €50/65/87,2-nightmin; AchladiesBay; http://achladies.apartments.googlepages.com; and anearbyminimarket andtaverna. toilets andshowers, cookingfacilities,laundry featuresend of spotless KoukounariesBeach berry trees, thisexcellentsite neartheeastern per adult/tent€8.50/4; Camping Koukounaries Eating & Sleeping on thenearbyrockyislets. terranean shagsandsingingblue-rockthrushes who maycatch of glimpses long-necked Medi- Kastro isaspringmeccaforbird-watchers, before Agios circlingbackthrough Apostolis. Evangelistrias, reaching eventually A 6km-long hiking route beginsatMoni HIKING Islet, which explores locationsto30mdeep. ing amorningbeginners’ dive off Tsougriaki the €45to€55range (withequipment)includ- school intheSporades.Itoffers singledives in .ddiving.gr; NostosBeach,busstop12) €40 to€50,equipmentincluded). islets forbeginners andexpertsalike (from day dives aroundTsougria andTsougriaki Taverna Agnantio Panorama Pizza Hotel Atrium o Dolphin Diving noon-4pm, 7pm-late) Achladies Apartments Achladies Apartments

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) Shaded byfigandmul- % ( hasadive instructor % 6944192066; pizzas€7-10; /fax 2427049250;campsites 24270 24549;www.odc istheoldestdiving pais ( % p SKOPELOS •• Getting There &Away SKOPELOS••Getting 24270 22486; Cape Kastro Cape ) Look for Family- Tradi- ) , (morning) daily toAlonnisos andSkiathos. with service €16.50 portofnorthwest atGlossa’s Loutraki,both 3¼hr one atSkopelosTown andtheotherto Skopelos hastwo hydrofoil ports,themain 1-2(jet HYDROFOIL Volos 1-2daily Konstantinos daily €31.60 €19.50 3½hr 4hr €7.50 Glossa 1hr Agios 3-4weekly Skopelos Town €4.60 Volos Skopelos Town 30min Skiathos Skopelos Town Alonnisos Skopelos Town Destination Origin Glossa & Town Skopelos Duration Summer Ferry Connectionsfrom Fare quay. Frequency Pension towardstheendof Lemonis thenew quay; and ( Agios Konstantinos. Skopelos andAlonnisos,Skiathos,Volos In summerthere are dailyferries between FERRY tohavesaid introducedwine-makinghere. (‘grape’inGreek)The MinoanrulerStafylos is Ariadne andDionysosinGreek mythology. thesonofMinoan outpostruledbyStafylos, cient times,whentheislandwasanimportant chaeological find,aroyaltombdatingtoan- port. the island’ssecond coast village of 3kmnorthof Glossa, Loutraki, Town ontheeastcoast;andunspoiltwest andmainportofments: thecapital Skopelos pebble beaches. There are twolarge settle- and sand southeast coastharbours several west coastare whilethesheltered exposed, which find theirwayintomany local dishes. groves andorchards of plumsandalmonds, a beautifulislandof pineforests, vineyards,olive thanSkiathos, commercialised Less Skopelos is pop 4700 SKOPELOS are amustfromJulytoAugust. Reservations with superbterrace viewsdowntotheharbour. slow-roasted lamb.It’s400moff theringroad, Gtig hr & Away & There Getting % In 1936Skopelosyieldedanexcitingar- Tickets are available from ofLike cliffs thenorth- Skiathos,thehigh 24240 22767;fax23608) Lemonis Agency ΣΚΟΠΕΛΟΣ

opposite thenew ( % Hellenic Seaways 24240 22363) ferries) ferries) daily 659 in

EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES Glossa Alonnisos Glossa Skiathos 55min 20min Glossa Sk Skopelos Town €12.20 €7.60 Skopelos Town 3-4 Destination Origin 4-5 Skopelos Town&Glossa Duration Summer HydrofoilConnectionsfrom daily daily Fare fax 2424033042). from in Glossa, Frequency Hellenic Seaways two tothree daily) and toAgios (€30.50,twohours, Konstantinos Town toVolos(€27.50,1¾hours, three daily) 660 (10km) To Skiathos Agios Konstantinos(67km) Volos (55km); To Skiathos(10km); SKOPELOS Skopelos Strait There are alsohydrofoils fromSkopelos ticketsIn SkopelosTown,purchase from KPLS • etn rud Around SKOPELOS ••Getting A EGN Glossa Armenopetra SEA Cape Gourouni Loutraki Skopelos Town Alonnisos 20min 5 €7.70 daily Kalyves Klima Perivoliou Beach iathos 45min €12.50 5 daily Beach Pension Platanas

Dasia Hellenic Seaways Mahalas ( % Kastani Beach 383m 24240 22767;fax23608) Elios Beach Milia Andrines Beach 0i 1.0 3-4 30min €10.50 daily Panormos Cape Myti Beach Agios Ioannis Church of Kaloyeros (

690m % 24240 33435; Skopelos Limnonari Limnonari Rooms Beach Agnontas ; Beach Ring Rd Hotel Eleni. Tours including thefriendlyandefficient located attheeastern endof thewaterfront, line theharbourinSkopelosTown,mostly car-Several andmotorcycle-rental outlets CAR &MOTORCYCLE (€1.20, 15minutes). as Agnontas (€1.20,15minutes) andStafylos minutes), andanothertwothatgoonlyasfar mos (€1.90,25minutes) andMilia(€2.60,35 one hour),three thatgoonlyasfarPanor- (€3.90, Town allthewaytoGlossa/Loutraki There perdayfromSkopelos are buses eight BUS Around Getting A EGN Glysteri Skopelos Beach Cape Velona Town SEA

258m ( Skopelos Episkopis Moni Ostria Hotel % Bay 24240 22986;fax22602) Mando Rooms Evangelistrias Beach Varvaras Moni Moni 567m Alonnisos Strait Velanio Beach 4km 2miles 0 0 Prodromou Moni Sotiros Metamorfosis Moni Georgios lonelyplanet.com Agios Kiourto Cape nextto To Alonnisos Motor (12km) h to thefire station. 10pm) Twentymetres upfrom bus stop. ari €12, to Glossa €25. ari €12,toGlossa is€7,toLimnon- waterfront. toStafylos Ataxi isnexttothebusstopalong stand The taxi I X A T Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Health Centre SERVICES MEDICAL Blue StarWashing LAUNDRY Café Skopelos Internet Café Internet Blue Sea ACCESS INTERNET police Port Police EMERGENCY newsstand International BOOKSHOPS Information also knownasSouvlakiSq. than50mawayisPlateia Platanos, stop. Less travel agencies; turnleft(20m)forthebus terfront linedwithcafés,souvenir shopsand toreachthe dock,turnright thebustlingwa- byallferriesend, used andhydrofoils. From the harbourandnewquayisateastern quays. Theoldquayisatthewestern endof Skopelos Town’swaterfront isflanked bytwo Orientation adorned balconies. shutteredwith brightly windowsandflower- interspersed amongdazzlingwhite houses four churches. Dozensof otherchurches are minating inanoldfortress andacluster of bay andclambers intiers upahillside,cul- ports intheSporades.Itskirtsasemicircular Skopelos Townisoneof themostcaptivating TOWN SKOPELOS about 5pm. (€5oneway),andreturnsGlysteri at Beach A regular departslate water morningfor taxi TAXI WATER office. steps. h 9am-midnight) Next tothepostoffice. 9am-midnight) Next 8am-2am) End of the waterfront, beneaththe 8am-2am) Endofthewaterfront, Kastro ( % 24240 22235)AbovetheNationalBank. ( % ( % 24240 22180) 24240 22222) On the ring road, next road,next 24240 22222)Onthering ( % ( ( 24240 22844)NeartheOTE % % ( % 24240 23010;perhr€3; 24240 23093;perhr€3; 24240 22236; SKOPELOS••SkopelosTown h 8am- walking trips, cooking lessons, even marriages. lessons,even cooking trips, walking andarrange accommodationandticketing, with booking canprovidehelp Madro .com) Attheendofnewport, Alexandra (Alex,forshort). is kept wellstocked bythewelcoming owner, ing thebayanda communalkitchen which courtyard, awhitewashed terrace overlook- as ahandyshelf inone. There’s aninterior each abitdifferent; anoldbrickoven serves rooms atthischarming waterfront elos.net/sotos; s/d€35/50; o BUDGET dation. to theferry dock,canhelpwithaccommo- Association 50% atothertimes.The butare season, oftenhigh reduced by30%to Hotel pricesquoted are fortheJuly toAugust Sleeping on thewaterfront. ( way. Forbookings,contact good chance of spottingdolphinsalongthe ing enroute forlunch andaswim.There’s a in theMarine Park of Alonnisos( p666 from thenewquayby10am,andusuallytake boats(€20to€45)depart Day-long cruise Tours and bridalbed. room, complete withtraditionalcostumes €2; Museum Art tions inSkopelos,butthere isalsoasmall waterside beyourchief cafésmight occupa- Strolling aroundtownandsittingatthe Sights accommodation andtoursaroundtheisland. andvilla includingapartment offer arangeofservices agency islands.com) Thehelpful staffatthiswaterfront Holidays Thalpos Travel Madro AGENCIES TRAVEL Post office POST waterfront. There are three bankswithATMs alongthe MONEY % h 24240 22947) 10am-10pm) Sotos Pension SouthofPlatanosSq,100montheright.

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EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES Theo andEleniruntheshowatthisinviting ish self-catering studiosoccupyatraditional ish self-catering .skopelos.net/perivoli; d/tr€60/70; .skopelos.net/perivoli; /agnanti; s/d/trinclbreakfast from€45/65/90; ern as willhave oneortwoonthemenu. variety of plum-based recipes, andmosttav- prisingly, souvlaki.Skopelosisknownfora Greek wines. risotto,plus agreat ofand seafood selection with Specialities includerolledpork yard setting. inanelegantandvine-coveredservice court- excellentGreek cuisineand snappy promises mains €7-12) on thehouse. style, yourmealusuallyendswithfresh fruit, baked lamb( foil-wrappedandoven-the spitfor€7,tasty great grills atgoodprices–halfachicken on newest restaurant onthewaterfront serves zucchini.and stuffed likedishes includeheartystaples lamb at theendof theoldquay. Ready-to-eatoven oldest taverna ontheisland,OAngelos sits perfect foraquickbite of Just 100mupfromthedock,SouvlakiSqis Eating outside. cool andinviting,apoolbarawaitsjust harbour. Even insummer,thelarge lobby is The upperroomsoffer balconyviewsof the theringroadandwaterfront.between low-key Dionyssosoccupiesaquietstreet .com; s/d/trinclbreakfast €100/120/130; fruit trees. terrace overlooking anorchard of olive and building justoff theringroad,each witha tions, plusapaperbacklendinglibrary. fans, traditionalceramicandwooddecora- 12-room hotel onthefarbay,withceiling Agnanti Hotel MIDRANGE ing thenearbyharbour. ontherooftop veranda overlook-fast isserved have ceilingfansandsmallbalconies.Break- vaguely Victorianandvery friendlyRegina .gr/regina; s/dinclbreakfast €40/55; 662 Hotel Dionyssos Hotel Regina Hotel o Taverna Englezos Taverna OAngelos Perivoli Studios Perivoli KPLS • kplsTw SKOPELOS ••SkopelosTown koromila To Perivoli Restaurant To Perivoli Just upfromSouvlakiSq,Perivoli

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( ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % % 24240 23591; snacks & cakes €2-5; 24240 23591;snacks&cakes 8am-1am) ( (

% ouzerie, % ( 24240 24741; Souvlaki Sq) 24240 24741;Souvlaki 24240 24266,6974641597) %

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% 24240 23661) 6942406136) Countonexcellentcof- near the ring road,with nearthering high above high the Kastro. 24240 24734; Gifthorema; mains 24240 24734;Gifthorema; ( % ( % tyropita 24240 23564;coffees & h 24240 24340; Neartheendof Cosyandcool, 7pm-2am, summer (cheese pie) (cheese Up market Worksby Worth 3km totheferry portatLoutraki. family tonothinginparticular,thisfriendly Close pop soundswithlive performancesonsum- ( church of Panagia Eleftherotria. Doulidi, nearthepostofficeandsmall Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ends atthe 18th-century until the road forks.Take theleftfork,which tinue beyondthe signposted Hotel Aegeon skirts thebayand thenclimbsinland.Con- following theroad (Monastery Rd),which bylong trek fromSkopelosTown.Begin visited onabeautifulscenicdrive orday- monasteries thatcanbe Skopelos hasseveral Monasteries SKOPELOS AROUND ahead. book August, simmered porkwithplums.FromJulyto followedby fennel andsun-driedtomatoes, withsea dishes like onpita grilledsardines ti’s rooftop terrace, alongwithGreek fusion Enjoy theviewsof Evia fromswankAgnan- ers like homemade offers fresh fishatdecentprices,fresh chips, familytaverna Loutraki, thisend-of-the-road Perched above therocksatlittle portof among thebreads andlittlecakes. peppers andfeta pie)androasted almonds newest bakery, with Check outthehuge brickoven atGlossa’s Pension Platanas Eating & Sleeping pharmacy, bakery andafew smallstores. tavernas; theotherleadsnearbytoabank, the portof Loutrakiandafew domatiaand a T-junction. Oneroadwindsdown3kmto village. managed toretain thefeel of apristineGreek ithasmiraculouslywhitewashed delight, Another considerably quieter thanthecapital. Skopelos’othermajor is Glossa, settlement, GLOSSA volume Greek pop. 24478; Doulidi; mer weekends. Thenearby % The summerclubscenelivens uplate along Agnanti TavernaAgnanti &Bar Flisvos Taverna Kyra LenaBakery The busstopsinfrontof alarge church at 24240 24488;Doulidi; pension taramasalata ΓΛΩΣΣΑ mousakas, h with views to the sea isonly withviewstothesea

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16th-century about 250mbeyondtheringroad.Ring compound of aprivate Skopelianfamily, be twoof theisland’sbest for swimming. in waterfront stores (€16). tions and illustrated maps,andisavailable Skopelos Trails, fers views toAlonnisosandEvia. Her book, follows anoldpath intothehills,andof- Her three-hour walkabove SkopelosTown ( island resident Heather Parson’s Madonna orchid, joinoneof lily or Leopard If youcan’ttell aCleopatrabutterfly froma Tours beaches, andlesscrowded.Thenexttwois sandy One kilometre further,little the sheltered andpopular pineforeststhrough before re-emerging at Agnontas. from Limnonari isalsoa1.5kmwalkordrive a sheltered bayflanked byrockyoutcrops. to thesuperiorandsandy beach andfromhereand-sand caïquessail 3km westof hasa small pebble- Stafylos, beach andagreat snorkelling spot. eter path leadsover asmallheadlandtothequi- Town. Fromtheeastern endof thebeach a tomb),4kmsoutheastofStafylos’ Skopelos is thesand-and-pebble the beaches. Thefirst beach youcometo the beginningof paths thatleaddownto stopat and westcoasts.Allbusservices almost allare onthesheltered southwest Skopelos’ beaches are mostlypebbled,and Beaches of and light Byzantine icons. Thesmallchapelvitation. withinisawonder Apostolis vent), 8kmfrom Skopelos Town. the 18th-century Moni Varvaras cent trackcontinuestothe17th-century island’s oldestmonastery. Fromhere ade- Mary. Virgin an11th-centuryiconofsis containing the from thesuperbviews,isagildediconosta- now aconvent. Themonastery’s prize,aside % From Agnontas theroadcutsinland Episkopis Moni forkleadstotheuninhabitedThe right 6945249328; www.skopelos-walks.com; tours€15-20) Velanio Beach

( % Milia 6974120450) with a view to the sea, andto withaviewtothesea, and Moni Metamorfosis Sotiros Moni Metamorfosis contains gradedtraildescrip- contains rests withintheVenetian nudist , theisland’sofficial Moni Prodromou Kastani for details andanin- fordetails Stafylos Beach , are considered to Limnonari Beach Limnonari Panormos Beach Andrines Beach Andrines (nowacon- guided walks Agnontas (site of , the 663 , in

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, EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES .skopelos.net/mando; s/d/tr/f€80/90/110/150; features self-catering ministudios,alongwith features self-catering bay,thiswell-managedand sandy domatia ste €60/80/120; Beach;d/tr/ Limnonari www.skopelos.net/limnonari-rooms; water. the and aplatformover therockstoenter coffee, acommunalkitchen, satellite TV, oriented atthiswelcomingandfamily- is agoodstart Having itsowncove onthebayatStafylos Limnonari, Panormos, Andrines and Milia. and beach Agnontas, canteens atStafylos, There are smallhotels, domatia, tavernas Eating & Sleeping 664 Agios Konstantinos(79km) Skiathos (25km); To Skopelos(12km); ALONNISOS Limnonari Rooms&TavernaLimnonari o Kokkinos Alonnisos AONSS ALONNISOS Strait Cape pension Mando Rooms Mando Mourtias Megalos Vrysitsa Beach pa Beach A EGN S EA Vithisma . Otherextrasincludefree Beach (Hora) Old Alonnisos ) Manolas Set backonabeautiful Set Islet of Marpounta Cape Patitiri Maïstra

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a Cape Kokkinokastro t Beach Leftos Gialos Kalamakia Mourtero Steni Vala cipitous cliffs buttheeastcoastisspeckled cipitous cliffs and fruittrees. Thewestcoastismostlypre- oak, alongwithmasticandarbutusbushes, of greenery of withthickstands pine and like amountain fromthesea Alonnisos rises pop 2700 ΑΛΟΝΝΗΣΟΣ ALONNISOS homemade olives and feta. vegetarian aperfect den taverna (mains€6to€8)serves race, allabout30mfromthewater. Thegar- a well-equippedcommunalkitchen andter- Diasello Petros Beach Agios Ikaros Camping Glyfa Beach Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com mousakas, Peristera A EGNS Beach Dimitrios Agios 316m Research Station Gerakas Marine Blue Cave Merada Ydoneri Gerakas Cape Vasilikos Gerakas 260m 4km 2miles 0 0 Bay Cove alongwiththeowner’s 180m Paliofanaro Cape Pelagonisos Gregali Cape Strait Panagia (6km); Giora (8km) To Kyra Lehousa wine industrycametoahalt,whenvines bad luck.In1952,theflourishingcottage in the Aegean. a nationalmarinepark,andisthecleanest declaredwater aroundAlonnisoshasbeen with smallbaysandpebblybeaches. The lonelyplanet.com tie daily). twice Vala fromOldAlonnisos viaPatitiri (€1.30, toSteni about 3pm).There isalsoaservice and OldAlonnisos (€1.20,hourly9amto Patitiritween (fromopposite thequay) In summer,onebuspliestheroute be- BUS ranges from€48to€60perday in summer. person 15HPto25HPmotorboats. The cost lonnisos Travel T A O B Around Getting Alkyon Travel two daily).Tickets from maybepurchased to Agios (€36.50,three Konstantinos hours, Volos (€32.50,three hours, three daily)and Skiathos (€14.70,1½hours, five daily),to (€12.20,onehour,fourdaily),to to Glossa Skopelos Town(€7.70,20minutes, five daily), In summer,hydrofoils connectAlonnisosto HYDROFOIL Travel schedules. and with ferry companiesforcurrent routes islessfrequent. Check service mer season, hours, three Outsideof perweek). thesum- (€23.20,seven daily), andtoThessaloniki (€36,fourhoursKonstantinos byjetferry, (€18.90, 4½hours, toAgios twoweekly), toVolosdaily fromJunetoSeptember), andtoSkiathos(€8.80,twohours,per week) los Town(€4.60,30minutes, three tofour From Alonnisos,there are ferries toSkope- FERRY dwellings sembled at Patitiri. were rehoused subsequently inhastilyas- of capital AlonnisosTown.Theinhabitants 1965, anearthquake destroyedthehill-top hood, manyislanders moved away.Then,in phylloxera.the disease Robbedof theirliveli- wereimported from California struckwith Gtig hr & Away & There Getting Lovely Alonnisoshashaditsshare of Tickets from canbepurchased ( % 24240 65188) ( %

( % ALONNISOS ••Patitiri 24240 65220) 24240 65188) inPatitiri. in Patitiri. rents outfour- Alonnisos Dolopon; there is no tourist Dolopon; there isnotourist police office. Port police Port Police EMERGENCY Information hand road (Ikion Dolopon). as theleft-handroad(Pelasgon) andright- signs andmostlocalssimplyrefer tothem Ikion Dolopon.Intruth,there are noroad turnleft forPelasgon,to thesea, for orright and tworoadsleadinland.Withyourback The quayisinthecentre of thewaterfront Finding yourwayaroundPatitiri iseasy. Orientation in the 1950s. of priortothedemise thewineindustryessed ‘wine press’ andiswhere grapeswere proc- forexploringAlonnisos.Patitiribase means small andrelaxed, andmakes aconvenient ally improving itshomelylooks.Thetownis (Paliacapital Alonnisos),Patitiri isgradu- 1965 earthquake theoldhill-top thatlevelled its hastyoriginsfollowingthedevastating the southernendof theeast coast.Despite atPatitiri cliffs twosandstone sitsbetween PATITIRI (€10). Dimitrios kinokastro (€7),Steni Vala (€9)andAgios about 5.30pm.Themainstopsare Kok- from thequayat11amandreturns by ing the and fromtheeast-coastbeaches isbytak- The easiestwayduringsummertoget to TAXI WATER Vala. Steni nisos, €8toMegalos Mourtiasand€12to opposite thequay.It’s€5toOldAlon- lis, Theodoros,Spyros)tend tocongregate ontheisland(Georgos, Perik-The fourtaxis I X A T and try and-shale tracksare andslippery.Also steep down tothebeaches, assomeof thesand- I’m Bike on Pelasgon, inPatitiri, includingreliable motorcycle-hire outletscanbefound Several MOTORCYCLE & CAR Nefeli Bakery & Rent-A-Car &Rent-A-Car Nefeli Bakery Albedo Travel ( %

( water taxi water % 24240 65205) At the northern end of Ikion endofIkion 24240 65205)Atthenorthern ( % ΠΑΤΗΤΗΡΙ 24240 65010) 24240 65595) OnthequayatPatitiri.

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EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES Dolopon, with an ATM. 6-9pm) ing &Swimming Guide, before bringingyouto Old Alonnisos. path walks. FromPatitiri, several tails a2km stop inOld Alonnisos abluenoticeboardde- and thebestonesare waymarked. Atthebus Walking opportunitiesabound onAlonnisos, WALKING are fairlygood. andcommon) dolphins (striped,bottlenose yourchances ofthe shymonkseal, spotting it’sunlikelymarine park.Though you’llfind and Skopelosconductexcursions the through Peristera. and Panagia. ZoneBishometoAlonnisositself ter of isletstothenortheast,includingKyra carefully restricted aclus- ZoneAcomprises chus Mediterranean ( monkseal theprotection ofaim hasbeen theendangered welcome innovation. Startedin1992,itsprime theAlonnisosMarinesightedness, Park isa In acountrynotnoted forecologicallong- ALONNISOS OF PARK MARINE NATIONAL atthefarwestendofstairway the harbour. with viewsof theharbour. Take thestone cal maps.Asmallcafésitsatopthemuseum shopandantiquenauti- and tools,ahorseshoe cludes anextensive displayof pirates’ weapons a labour of love bytheMavrikis family,andin- ( The Sights Post office POST National BankofGreece MONEY Lena’s Gardenia LAUNDRY Techno Plus Play Café ACCESS INTERNET 666 & 5-9pm) On the right-hand road,opposite & 5-9pm)Ontheright-hand the school. Activities % The informative The parkisdividedintotwozones. In summer, licensed boatsfromAlonnisos In summer,licensed 24240 66250;admission€3; winds up through shrubberyandorchards windsupthrough ). See theboxed). See text ( opposite Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades oftheNorthern Museum Folklore A ONSS • aiii ALONNISOS ••Patitiri

Across theroadfrom National Bank. ( % (Ikion Dolopon)100mfromthebusstop. (Ikion ( % 24240 66119;perhr€4; ( 24240 29100;perhr€3; % 24240 65831;Pelasgon) Alonnisos onFoot: AWalk- Southern end of Ikion SouthernendofIkion by Bente Keller byBente and h Monachus mona- 11am-7pm) h h 9am-2pm & ). is largely 9am-2pm donkey donkey

( arrangeseven islandweddings. sions toSkantzouraandnearbyislands, runs regular snorkelling andswimmingexcur- Albedo Travel park, withswimmingbreaks alongtheway. islets of the island native, Pakis Athanasiou),which visit the round-the-island guidedexcursions aboard ( marine parkexcursions. Inquire at ter front provide mapsandarrange popular Three professional travel agencies onthewa- Tours torcycle-hire outletsonIkionDolopon. Ammos. There are several bicycle- andmo- southwest coastaroundthebayof Megali The bestmountain-bike ridingisover onthe CYCLING and olive groves overlooking thesea. pineforestwinds through trails,pastchurches walkaboveChris Browne. Patitiri Ahalf-day €15-30) walks .alon nisoswalks.co.uk; authors, thehistoryof detailing the island. along with Elias Tsoukanas, isavailable atwaterfront shops, Ilias andMagdalini give theirspotlessdomatia Pelasgon 27;d€45,2-/3-bedstudios €50/55; Take behind thenewsstand. thestairway plus fourfamily-sized studioswithkitchenette. along withnineimmaculate, balconiedrooms, ful budget optionoffers viewsof Patitiri Bay, .gr; s/d/trfrom€25/35/50; south of Patitiri. butshaded spot1km Rocks, arough coastal €6/3) Rocks Camping BUDGET inJulyandAugustonly. service 10pm) ( or more atothertimes. expectdiscountsof aboutgust season; 25% Prices here are JulytoAu- forthehigher Sleeping rine parkexcursions aboard the % % % Pension Pleiades Consider a Ilias Rent Rooms Ilias Rent Gorgona 24240 66000;www.alonnisostravel.gr) 24240 66188;fax65577; 24240 65320;www.ikostravel.com) Blue Cave Follow the signposts in town for Camping Follow thesignpostsintownforCamping , opposite thequay,offers aroom-finder Kyra Panagia Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com The Alonnisos Guide (aclassicGreek by boatcaptained ( onthenortheastcoast,and ( % % guided walk ( 24240 65804;www.albedotravel.com) 24240 65410;campsitesperadult/tent %

( ai % and 24240 65235;pleiadeshotel@yahoo 24240 65451;fax 65972; Peristera Peristera This bright andcheer-This bright ) withislandresident Rooms toLetService

( h % 9.30am-2pm &6.30- 6974080039; www alsorunsma- Alonnisos Travel for popular by the same bythesame in themarine Planitis a Ikos Travel Owners ) .

o MIDRANGE studios share acommunalkitchen. a warmandwelcomingtouch. Roomsand Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Taverna Archipelagos grilled local lobster. to theshrimpsouvlakiorblowbudget on eatery, thenmovethis traditionalseafood on mezedhes like fresh at Alonnisostunasalad mains €5-15) baked lamb). favourite,and ahouse souvlakia,heftyGreekYou’ll findtasty salads opposite thehydrofoil dock,isstillgoingstrong. h &Pizzeria Anais Restaurant Eating breakfast atthe pool terrace. Patitiri harbour. Roompricesincludeabuffet balconied rooms,which overlook thebayor and stone-tiledfloors give arusticfeel tothe -hotel.gr; s/d/tr€65/80/100; ered balcony viewsof Patitiri harbour. iron bedsandlarge bathrooms,andvine-cov- studioswith stonefloors, self-catering to these €50/80; floors andtraditional wood furnishings. embroidered andoldlampstostone curtains the roomshave abitof character, fromhand- overlooking theharbourwasPatitiri’s first. All hotel welcoming andimpeccablymaintained 65096; d/tr/steinclbreakfast €50/70/85; mezedhes and grills. forGreek Opposite thehydrofoildock,andalocalfavourite Paradise Hotel Nina Studios Also recommended: Ouzerie To Kamaki tional MarinePark ofAlonnisosin1992(see opposite and pollution.food supplyasfisheriesdecline,habitat destruction that tears holesin their nets androbstheircatch–incidentalcapture infishinggear,decreasing worldwide. Majorthreats byfishermen–whoseethesealasapest includedeliberate killings viduals today.Halfoftheselive in waters betweenGreece andTurkey. the Atlantic coastofAfrica, theMediterranean monk sealhasbeenreduced toabout400indi- Once populatinghundreds ofcoloniesintheBlackSeaandMediterranean, aswellalong SEAL MONK THE recovery offishstocks. breakfast, lunch&dinner) Recognising that this seal may become extinct ifnotprotected,Recognising thatthis sealmaybecomeextinct Greece establishedtheNa- rarest mammals,thissealisonthelist ofthe20mostendangeredOne oftheearth’s species For more information, visithttp://mofi.mom.gr/uk/fokia_alieia1.htm. pa Liadromia Hotel Start off withasipof Start ouzoand ) Take thestairs opposite thebank ( %

( % 24240 65242;www.ninna.gr; d/f

( ( % % Patitiri’s first restaurant, 24240 65213;www.paradise

ps ( ( % % 24240 65031;mains€4-8) 24240 65245; Ikion Dolopon; 24240 65245;Ikion kleftiko 24240 65243; mains €5-12; 24240 65243;mains€5-12; 24240 65521;fax ) Woodceilings pai (slow-oven- ALONNISOS ••OldAlonnisos This ) taverna andpianobarbelow,withsweeping shop attheupperentrance,andalate-night €30/40) mains €2-7; at decent prices. canopy oppositethedock,withexcellentoven-ready dishes views of Morning theislandfromeither level. o Eating point tofetch herguestsfrom the dock. of thesouthwestcoast.Theownermakes ita traditional stylingcomewithbalconyviews studioswith handsome andquietself-catering nicest accommodationsonAlonnisos,these www.konstantinastudios.gr; s/d€40/50; have well-equipped kitchens. mia comewithbalconyviews,andthestudios pine-and-stone-floor roomsattheHiliadro- d/2-bedstudio€35/55; Hristou; and there isasnackbarin the courtyard. square, simpleroomsare these goodvalue, several well-managed domatia Old Alonnisoshasnohotels, butthere are Sleeping and Marpounta Beaches. andotherpaths leadsouthtoVithisma Beach path leadsdowntopebbledMegalos Mourtias road justoutsidethevillage anolddonkey esque placewithlovely views.Fromthemain its windingstepped alleys,isatranquil,pictur- nisos, Hora,Palio HorioorOldTown),with Old Alonnisos(alsoknownasPalia Alon- Flisvos Café OD ALONNISOS OLD o Pension Hiliadromia Fantasia House ),tobothprotect thesealandtopromote Tucked thechurch awaybetween and Hayati h Konstantina Studios ( % 9am-2am) ( % 24240 65307;mains€5-8)Underthe ( % 24240 66244;OldAlonnisos;snacks& ΠΑΛΙΑ Hayati isbothasweets 24240 65186; Plateia Hristou; s/d 24240 65186;PlateiaHristou;

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667 EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES Votsi andvery popularwithlocalfamilies. tiny small baysandbeaches. Thefirst oneof note, takes youfromPatitiri to Megalos Mourtias. shore pastKalamakia for5km. Athirdroad yacht harbourof Steni Vala, andfollowsthe road branches offtothesmallfishing portand kilometres northof Patitiri, anothersealed an EU-funded marineresearch Six station. tip of (19km), hometo theislandatGerakas Alonnisos’ mainroadreaches thenorthern ALONNISOS AROUND a hearty fish soup. bar prepares andsouvlakia,plus goodsalads from thesurf,thislaid-back taverna andbeach €4-8; like offers excellentcannelloniandfinemezedhes gracious courtyardtaverna, nearthebusstop, five-minute walkfromthe village square. oftality owner-cooks Meni andAngela. It’sa juicy souvlaki,alongwiththegracioushospi- pita fare includes made-to-orderAlonnisos 668 galaktoboureko inasliceof findawaytosqueeze For dessert, Astrofengia The island’s east coast is home to several The island’seastcoastishometoseveral Taverna Mourtias Megalos As one Skopelos businesswoman, Mahi, confided,‘Basically, westoleit!’As one Skopelosbusinesswoman, Mahi, popular inwinter with red wine. breakfast versions withsugarandcinnamon, andothersusingwildgreens orlamb,especially course, thetastytreatsuperior islandversion. Of has evolved over theyears,andyouwillfind longtime Alonnisosresident, Pakis. Butdon’tcountonthe frozen pieresembling theoriginal and lounge, ‘thedeterioration departure ofanimitation’,accordingtoabuy itintheAthens’ airport ‘Skopelos CheesePie’ shelves. soon showeduponmainlandsupermarket Today,youcaneven hosttouted thepie, butcredited Skopeloswithitsorigin.popular daytimeTV Predictably, frozen fields. ofSkopelos. Notsurprisingly,itsoonappeared Inthe1990s,a inthecountrykitchens plums. Theirto workonneighbouringSkopelos,picking saltycheesepielasted all dayinthe following thecollapseofcottagewineindustry,manystrugglingAlonnisos farmerswent stop yourscreaming’. a pieceoffilo,throwinginhandfulcheese,andfryingitquicklywith a reprimand, ‘Here, resourceful(spinach pies)were mothersquieted slowly baking, hungrychildren bytearing off open todebate. Oneversion, popularonneighbouringSkopelos,hasitthatwhen oven anythingwithaplaceinfolklore, ofAlonnisos. course,like thepie’sorigins Of kitchens are hot–amethodthatevolved inthewood- is rolledandcoiledup,thenfriedquicklyserved goats cheeseand delicate filodough,thesame flakycrustasinsweetbaklava. The filleddough Tyropita PIE CHEESE ORIGINAL THE . Later, you’ll find homemade pastas and you’llfindhomemadepastas . Later, saganaki h Rousoum A ONSS • rudAonss ALONNISOS ••AroundAlonnisos Stunned Alonnisos folk stillcan’tgetover what’shappenedtotheirsimple anddeliciousrecipe. Alonnisos residents tell anotherversion andclaimthathistory isontheirside. Inthe1950s, breakfast, lunch&dinner) (cheese pie) is almost deified in the northern Sporades. The (cheesepie)isalmostdeifiedinthenorthern popularpieismadewith , istucked Patitiri between and

(fried cheese) anddolmadhes. (friedcheese) ( % (homemade pie). custard 24240 65182;mains€5-12) ( % Astone’sthrow 24240 65737;mains This tyro- seems tojumpfromboat seems to plate. where themorningcatch of fishandlobster able lodginginformation and more. in frontof ernas. Thefishingboatsusuallytieupdirectly village of note, andhasafew domatiaand tav- Try the beach anddecentlyshaded byolive trees. as modest morning till midnight. the bestviewsof theharbourandopenfrom marina, with Fourtavernas overlookmonk seal. thesmall fortheMediterranean Centre Rehabilitation is alsohometothemarinepark’sRescueand and sandy beaches; pebbly of nomore than40,hastwosmallbutdecent water yacht portwithapermanentpopulation Eleonas a lovely pebblebeach andthesuperb road branches off2kmto Continuingnorth,the walls underthesea. the ancientcityof Ikos,withremains of city kilometres on, Beach Milia andgentlyNext isthesandy sloping Sei Vala Steni Kalamakia Kalamakia There are 30-oddroomsindomatia Ikaros Café &Market Café Ikaros

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( % spanikopita isthesite of 24240 65738) claiming forreli- , nextto Taverna , aswell , with Hrysi , 3km toawetlandmarsh and narrows toafootpath heading inland. stretch this,theroad of white pebbles.Beyond with acanteen anddomatiaopposite agraceful lonelyplanet.com ing place of young Achilles. See ing place of young Achilles. See p672 almost every Skyrian house. Asia.and East Today,similar items adorn ornaments from Europe, theMiddleEast furniture, plates andcopperhand-carved pirate bootylooted frommerchant ships: with Skyrian society,decoratingtheirhouses ing pirates. Theexilesbecametheelite of mutually lucrative collaboration withinvad- exiled here fromthemainlandentered intoa Skyros their home. particularly English andDutch, have made shoreline of thesouth.Anumberof expats, of thenorth,andbarren hillsandrocky small bays,rollingfarmlandandpineforests like twoislands–the itcanseem though Skyros isthelargest of theSporades group, pop 2602 SKYROS who refuse tostep foot on either. home tovipers, accordingtolocalfishermen ‘brother’ isactuallyasmallisland,both known as uated Peristerabetween andSkantzoura,is islandinthegroup,sit- Theeighth seagull. Eleanora’s falconandtherare Audouin’s southeast of of Alonnisos,isthehabitat the caves.stalactite-filled sea of acastle. Nearby beaches andtheremains sandy has several in brightest lighthouse the Aegean. submerged remains of anancient cityandthe most remote of thegroup, astery andolive press on spine. Excursion boatscanvisitanoldmon- known forthecrucifix-shaped markingonits is hometoanunusualspeciesof wildgoat is strictlyoff-limits. Alonnisos, isarefuge and forthemonkseal fauna. ited islets, all of which are rich infloraand uninhab- Alonnisos issurroundedbyeight ALONNISOS AROUND ISLETS Beyond Kalamakia, the sealed road continues Kalamakia, roadcontinues thesealed Beyond In Greek mythology,Skyros wasthehid- Peristera In Byzantinetimes,roguesandcriminals Piperi Piperi , justoff Alonnisos’eastcoast, Duo , thefurthestislandnortheastof

Adelphi ΣΚΥΡΟΣ SKYROS •• Getting There &Away SKYROS••Getting Lehousa Gioura (TwoBrothers); each Psathoura Skantzoura Kyra Panagia , also off-limits, , alsooff-limits, isknownforits Agios Dimitrios Beach Dimitrios Agios , boaststhe , tothe . The for , near the bus stop. reasonable 92022; 6974752380) all berented from motorbikesCars, bikes andmountain can MOTORCYCLE & CAR the airport, it’s €18. fromSkyrosTowntoLinaria is€12;to taxi with theferry arrivals)and nonetoMolos.A toLinaria(to coincide only oneortwobuses there outsideofHowever, season are high theferryTown andMolosmeet atLinaria. Molos (viaMagazia). forbothSkyros Buses from SkyrosTowntoLinaria(€1.20)and there season are departing In high dailybuses TAXI & BUS Around Getting Paralia Kymis(theport of Kymi). which theferry alwaysmeets onarrivalat the Kymi–Athensbus(€13.20,3½hours), in Kymi (Evia). the dockinLinaria,andanotherat Town. There isalsoaferry ticket kiosk at & 7-10pm) ( can buytickets from the remaining days,justonecrossing. You the ferry (usually)makes twocrossings;on (€8.30, 1¾hours). OnFridayandSunday, theportofbetween Kymi(Evia) and Skyros isprovided by A regular ferry service FERRY .skyrostravel.com; Agoras St). visit and Saturday(€58,35minutes). Fortickets, onMonday,Tuesdaythree weekly flights andSkyros,there Thessaloniki aretween Athens andSkyros(€38,25minutes). Be- (Wednesday, SaturdayandSunday)between In summerthere are three weekly flights AIR the Battle of Gallipoli. thecoastof shipoff pital Skyrosenroute to who diedof on aFrench septicaemia hos- English poet Rupert Brooke (1887–1915), Achilles’ heroic feats. anditstraditions,which alludeto Carnival more informationabouttheSkyrosLenten Gtig hr & Away & There Getting % Skyros wasalsothelastportof call forthe Skyros Travel Agency tickets alsosells for 22220 91789;fax91791;Agoras; Skyros Travel Agency Skyros Travel , nearthebankonAgoras inSkyros Vayos Motorbikes near the police station. The nearthepolicestation. Martina’s Rentals Martina’s

Achileas ticket office Achileas ticket ( %

( % 22220 91600;www 22220 92957) h ( % 9am-1pm Achileas, 22220 669 is

EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES becomes even narrower, markingthe begin- becomes even towalkup thehill;narrow roadsoon need alleyways. Toreach thecentral grocery stores andflanked by narrowwinding animated street linedwith tavernas, bars and on themainthoroughfare (Agoras) –an The busstopisatthesouthernend of town Orientation wandering. invite thine, smoothcobblestoned streets, which of , andislacedwithlabyrin- by a13th-centuryfortress andthemonastery draped over It’stopped rockybluff. ahigh town of flat-roofed Cycladic-stylehouses isastriking,dazzlinglywhiteSkyros’ capital TOWN SKYROS 670 SKYROS Cape Oros KRS • krsTw SKYROS ••SkyrosTown To Evia(24km) Koulouri Cape Vathy Rinia Petritsa Cape Alyko Cape Souliotis Bay Cape Finari Panagia Kyra Atsitsa Frokala Agios Fokas Cape Aloni Pefkos Bay Pefkos Skyros Katounes Aherounes Exo Myti plateia Beach Palamari Bay Moni Agiou Cape Dimitriou Aherounes , you Linaria Skyros Town Georgiou Moni Agiou Kalamitsa Aspous Bay Marmaro Nyfi Cape Kalamitsa bled steps descend toMagazia Beach, located 1kmaway. the 1930s. local islanders when itwasfirst in installed anoutcryamongtheof caused thestatue Rupert Brooke Thefrankness facesthesea. where of asimplebronzestatue anude adjacenttoPlateia museums Rupert Brooke, ing views.Theleftforkzigzagsto two small Georgiou, withitsfinefrescoes andsweep- leads uptothefortress andMoniAgiou main dragof Agoras fork forks.Theright park inthenearby car park. but carsstill manage through, must tosqueeze ning of thetown’spedestrian zone. Motorbikes Loutro Girismata Beach Mealos Bay Magazia Tris Boukes Platia From Plateia Rupert Brooke the cob- About 100mbeyondthe Houma Papa Molos Cape Pouria Bay Mt Dafni (734m) Agios Ermolaos Mt Kohilas Katholikou (792m) Bay Mt Vouva (727m) Tris Boukes Pentekali Brooke's Grave Rupert Renes Bay 4km 2miles 0 0 A EGN S EA lonelyplanet.com Gerania Caves plateia Limnonari Cape Kastelli Cape , the features excellentexamplesof Mycenaeanpot- Police EMERGENCY Information Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com resident andreiki master Reiki courses are offered bylongtimeisland lowed bymusicand dancingonthesquare. marathon forthechildren thetone,fol- sets first runners acrossthefinish line. Amini- Skyros Town,withdrummers welcoming the andendsonthe inAtsitsa starts host toa in itsentirety fromthe benefactor’s home. interior, transportedtraditional Skyrianhouse tery foundnearMagazia. Interesting tooisa admission€2; Brooke; Plateia Rupert books, photographs anda small shop. tumes, antiquefurniture andceramics,vintage ispackedcentury house withSkyriancos- mythology andfolklore of Skyros.The19th- nologist, Manos Faltaïts, the anddetailing collectionofthe outstanding aSkyrianeth- housing private museum is aone-of-a-kind admission€2; Brooke; Plateia Rupert Faltaïts FolkMuseum The Skyros Townhastwomuseums. Activities & Sights Agency Skyros Travel AGENCIES TRAVEL isjustwestofThe postoffice thesquare. POST National BankofGreece MONEY ClubInternet Video h Mano.com ACCESS INTERNET sions around Skyros. rentals, divingandexcur- carandmotorbike reservations, travel It hasislandmapsandcanhelpwithroombookings, .skyrostravel.com; Agoras St; tourist tourist police office. attheT-junction.Travel Agency, andturn right There isno hr €3; cnrl square. central Courses Every Skyrosis yeararoundSeptember, The 9am-1.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm) h ( % Archaeological Museum Archaeological 9am-1.30pm & 6-11pm) 22220 91274)Take Skyros after thefirstright ( half-marathon % 22220 92473;Agoras St;perhr€3; ( %

( ( % % (Agoras St) Next tothe (Agoras St)Next 22220 92802;Agoras St; per h 22220 91232;www.faltaits.gr;

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( 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) 10am-2pm &6-9pm) % SKYROS••SkyrosTown 22220 91327; plateia (

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details. details. a goodbudget choice beds, withcomfortable family-size studiosare partof aremodelled furnishings andlarge baths. Theadjacent feel toit,withvintage photographs, handsome edge of townhasa minimalist-meets-Skyrian pais .skyros-nefeli.gr; d/studios/ste inclbreakfast €125/190/300; Studios Nefeli&Dimitrios Hotel END TOP onto ashadygarden. balconies; thelowerroomshave fansandopen The upperroomshave air-conditioning and is onlyafive-minute walktobusyAgoras. andfriendly road, thiscomfortable s/d/tr €50/60/70; towards thesea. Atherinis islocated 300mbelowthebusstop, includes fresh juiceandhomemadescones. overlook ashaded garden.Breakfast (€5) double roomsfeature hand-tiledbaths and apartmentsandJanet Smith,theself-catering Dimitris AtherinisandEnglish transplant 6979292976; d/aptfrom€45/60; on thetown. the busstop,andeasytofindafter anight balcony andminifridge. It’sjust50mpast pai Elena Hotel MIDRANGE & BUDGET July toAugust. quoted here are mid- forthesummerseason, from €25to€40forasingle/double. Prices offers onnearbydomatia If youarrive bybus,you’llusuallybemetwith dividual roomsintraditionalSkyrianhouses. conventional smallhotels anddomatiatoin- Accommodation inSkyrosTownvariesfrom Sleeping swim. Contact nearby SarakinoIsletincludeslunch anda caves sea onthesoutheastcoastor Gerania A day-longboatexcursion (€35)tothe Tours also runscourses. Hotel Nefeli. the southedge of SkyrosTown,200mbelow 93510; SkyrosTown;www.simplelifeskyros.com) o ( hastheSkyrosCentre Atsitsa p673 Pension Nikolas ) Atherinis Rooms Atherinis The cleanandrenovated Elenais

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EVIA & THE SPORADES SPORADES THE & EVIA EVIA & THE SPORADES and Skyrian cheese bread. include lamb andporkgrills, fresh fish gumbo ros TowninAspous. dishes Generous-sized Family-run isjust3kmsouth of Sky- Lambros with sun-driedtomatoes. andfavafood risotto,coldoctopussalad beans Liakos, where thefusionmenuincludessea- headtotherooftopmer evenings, terrace at wine. house milk –andavery good washing-it-down rian dolmadhesmadewithatouch of goats andonions,alongwithSky- with wildaniseed Mezedhes are excellent,especiallyfava beans howonegeneration followedanother.to see means ‘mygrandfatherandme’,it’seasy St; mains€6-9) dip. and mezedheslike black-eyedbeansand fava and octopus mains €5-9) goats milkormeat. in thesmallesttaverna, with includingseveral can findanumberof authenticSkyrian dishes cooks donotcater totouristytongues.You resultAthenians, withthepleasant thatisland Skyros welcomesasteady numberof visiting Eating iful saltwater swimmingpoolandbar. BothpropertiesshareSkyrian house. abeaut- 672 Taverna Lambros Liakos Café o Restaurant Maryetis Koulentianou’s book go toTroywhere hedistinguishedhimselfinbattle. This annualfestival ofJoy isthesubject alone showedinterest intheweapons,Odysseusdiscovered hissecret, thenpersuadedhimto with jewelsandfineryforthegirls, alongwithaswordandshield.WhenthemaidenAchilles as oneofhisowndaughters. YoungAchilleswasoutwitted, however, byOdysseus,whoarrived Trojan War. The boywasgiven tothecare LykomidesofSkyros,whoraisedhimdisguised ofKing for theboyAchilles,whosemother,Thetis, feared inthe aprophecyrequiring herson’sskills with SkyrosinGreek mythology.Accordingtolegend,theislandwaschildhoodhidingplace worship. Inancienttimes,astoday,Skyroswasrenowned foritsgoatsmeatandmilk. These strangegoings-onare overtly pagan,withelementsofDionysianfestivals, including goat andfeasting.poems andmuchdrinking Womenandchildren joinin,wearingfancydress aswell. During theserevelries there ofplays,recitations issinging ofsatirical anddancing,performances (anotherman),dressed upasaSkyrianbridebutalsowearinggoatmask. each withapartner anddozenshairy jackets ofcoppergoatbells. They thenproceedtoclankanddancearound town, (Clean Monday–thefirstinLent, 40daysbefore Easter), youngmendongoatmasks, In thiswildpre-Lenten festival, Deftera before placeonthelastfourweekends whichtakes Kathara CARNIVAL SKYROS KRS • aai oo &Molos SKYROS ••Magazia The transvestism evidentinthecarnivalseemstoderive fromthecultofAchillesassociated Thelocalfavourite forgrilledfish O Pappous kai Ego O Pappous kai Thenameof thissmalltaverna

( stifadho, % 22220 93509;mains€5-10)

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sports aninternet connection. along withhomemadesangria. Asideroom bartender Hristosmakes akillermargarita, lypso playslotsof jazzandblues, andowner- low thesounds. you goawayfromthe around thebars onAgoras; thefurthernorth Nightlife inSkyrosTowncentres mostly Drinking near the southern endof Magazia. dippers canleave itallbehind at northofshort distance SkyrosTown. Skinny- end of asplendid, long beach,sandy situated a tive place of windingalleys,isatthesouthern The resort of Magazia, acompactandattrac- ΜΑΓΑΖΙΑ MOLOS & MAGAZIA till dawn. able mixof EuropeanandGreek popsounds road hang-out,where theDJsplayadance- showing upbefore atthisring midnight Skyropoula Disco Entertainment coffees andappetisers. the thisswankbaroverlookingthe NationalBank, drinks andfresh juices. Bonuspointsforbig spot toendtheevening. hang-outisamellow late-night comfortable Nostos Cafe &Bar Nostos Cafe Rodon Kalypso plateia ( %

( % serves arange of mixed drinks, serves 22220 92168;Agoras St) 22220 92696;Agoras St) &

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91453; Molos;mains€4-10) 30m fromthebeach. TheSkyrian-style Perigiali despite feels beingonly secluded than at these geranium-adorned doma- than atthese can’t get andsea tothesand much closer [email protected]; Magazia; d/tr€45/50; Magazia; [email protected]; .com; d/finclbreakfast from€45/70; and smalldomatiahave openedup. laos tomarkit.Today,anumberof tavernas adjacent rock-hewnChurch of Agios Ermo- there waslittle more thanawindmillandthe northern endof thebeach. Untilrecently, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Flat Museum. Faltaïts copies ofin high-quality ceramics fromthe Argo Shopping prepared prawnand octopus mezedhes. excellent caféand railing above thebeach inMolos tofindthis souvlakia andfresh fishby the kilo. of ready-to-eat oven dishes,bigportions of of fromarange andchoose Magazia Beach, tional eatery, overlooking thesouthernend Perch yourself ontheterrace of thistradi- breakfasts throughout the day. out underthestars atbusyJuicy’s,with h Juicy BeachBar Drinking & Eating 22889; Molos;s/d/tr€50/70/80; Domatia &StudiosEleanna from €30/40; Studio Ireni melia isfullof ideas for travellers. by alarge figtree, andEnglish-speakingEr- rooms overlook aramblinggardenanchored d/tr/finclbreakfast from€68/80/90; .perigiali.com; rooftop solar panels. ket. Lookforthebougainvilleagardenand entering Magazia, opposite asmallmar- spacious andtidyDeidamiaisontheroad park. car tia 20mfromthebeach, opposite ahandy Georgia Sleeping ian furnishings, balcony, kitchenette and ian furnishings,balcony,kitchenette large bath. Quieter andmore aridMolosisatthe Taverna Stefanos o Deidamia Hotel Oi Istories TouBarba Oi Istories Also recommended: 10am-1am)

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Get a close lookattheintricate designsthat aclose Get and into this efficient domatia,managedand intothisefficient You canpracticallystumbleoff theferry woodsy setting, shadedwoodsy setting, by pines thatapproach ontheisland’swestcoastoccupies a Atsitsa andpicturesqueThe sleepy portvillage of Atsitsa casserole) and dishes such as traditionalready-to-eat ovendock serves busy andfriendlyfishtaverna neartheferry the islandfordrinks at sunset. looking theport,pullsinSkyriansfrom across swank open-airbar,perched onthehillover- under thebig plane tree. the welcomingownerof thisportstand-by upbyTasos,octopus andcalamariare served 4) rooms,eachmaintained with balcony. SoulaPappas.by thehospitable Ithaswell- [email protected]; rinclbreakfast €45-60; LykomidesRooms King EATING & SLEEPING rival and departure. but coincidesperfectly withtheferry’s ar- Skyros Townlacksasimilarsoundsystem, from theship’shuge speakers. Thebusto Strauss’ boats andlinedwithtavernas and a smallbayfilledwithbobbingfishing Linaria, theportof Skyros,istucked into Linaria in the Deidamia Hotel. of the yellowKodaksignnextdoor. Thestudios themainroadandbeach;between lookfor ( English-speaking and someof theirexceptionalworkisforsale. visitors,out front,buttheyare happytosee in Magazia withoutbotheringtoputasign this handsomeshop onthe main drag. distinguish traditionalSkyrianfurniture at arrival withtheboomingsoundof Richard eas the Things perkupbrieflywhenever AON SKYROS AROUND % Tasty ouzo-compatible mezedhes like grilled Efrossini Varsamou Efrossini Taverna Filippeos Bar Kavos Maestros Ouzeri pottery workshops spintheirwheels Several ferry comesin,announcingitssurreal Andreou Woodcarving Andreou 22220 92918) Ατσίτσα Λιναριά Also Sprach Zarathustra

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