© Lonely Planet Publications 647 Evia & the Sporades Εύβοια & Οι Σποράδες In a nation known for its magical islands, Evia and the Sporades are not exactly household names. Some would be surprised, in fact, that Evia is an island at all. Joined by a short bridge at Halkida, and separated from the mainland by a narrow gulf, it’s one of those places that seem to be hidden in full view. Only a couple of hours from Athens, Evia’s busy gateway resorts get their car loads of weekend visitors. But across the island, the pace is slower and the landscape pristine for long stretches, dotted by hill-top monasteries, small farms and vineyards, and goats staring at you in the middle of the road. Small beaches dot the west and southeast coasts, many of them with no more than one or two tavernas, and crystal-clear bays that would be lined with matching umbrellas and beach bars elsewhere. Skyros, the southernmost of the Sporades (in Greek, ‘scattered ones’), retains a good deal of local character, and its unique cuisine gets a thumbs up from locals and visitors alike. Closest to the mainland is Skiathos; once a sleepy fishing port, it now sees charter flights from northern Europe, and claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, along with several prime diving spots. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and its share of fine bays, beaches and forest meadows laced with old walking trails. Alonnisos, the most remote of the group, anchors the National Marine Park of Alonnisos – established to protect the Mediterranean monk seal – and is a model for ecological awareness throughout Greece. Alonnisos, like much of Evia and the other Sporades, is certain to yield unexpected finds, some from the natural landscape, and others from the good-natured islanders you’ll encounter at every turn. HIGHLIGHTS Alonnisos Kastro Wine & Song Sipping local wines at the Wine & Kalamakia Tsougria Cultural Festival in Karystos (p653 ) Skopelos Fish Feast Dining at the fish tavernas at Kalamakia ( p668 ), Alonnisos Linaria Bay Wildlife Tours Spotting young dolphins in the National Marine Park of Alonnisos ( p666) Guided Walks Hiking the high meadows overlooking EVIA & THE SPORADES EVIA & THE SPORADES the neighbouring islands at Skopelos ( p663 ) Romantic Interlude Enjoying sunset above Linaria Bay ( p673 ) on Skyros Authentic Music Applauding the bouzouki players above the Kastro on Karystos Skopelos ( p662) Take the Plunge Reef diving off Tsougria, Skiathos ( p659 ) POPULATION: 228,752 AREA : 4167 SQ KM 648 EVIA & THE SPORADES •• Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com EVIA •• Central Evia 649 0 20 km EVIA & THE SPORADES 0 12 miles FERRY CONNECTIONS TO EVIA & THE SPORADES To Thessaloniki (85km) THESSALY Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Psathoura To Larisa Agia Marina Evia (Nea Styra) 45min €2.10 4-6 daily (55km) Gioura Volos Agios Konstantinos Alonnisos 4hr €36.50 2 daily (jet ferry) Piperi Skiathos 2½hr €18 daily Kyra Panagia Alonnisos Skopelos 3½hr €31.60 1-2 daily (p664) Arkitsa Evia (Loutra Edipsou) 35min €1.50 10-12 daily Pagasitikos Pelion Skiathos (p655) Gulf Peninsula Peristera A E G E A N Evia (Paralia Kymis) Skyros 1¾hr €8.30 1-2 daily Skiathos Town Patitiri Rafina Evia (Marmari) 1hr €6 4-6 daily SPORADES S E A Glyfa Evia (Agiokambos) 25min €1.50 8-12 daily Platanias Skopelos E75 Loutraki Town Dio Adelphi Skala Oropou Evia (Eretria) 25min €1.40 hourly Cape (Glossa Port) Artemisio Skopelos Skantzoura Thessaloniki Skiathos 6hr €17.70 weekly (p660) Skyros Pefki Volos Alonnisos 4½hr €18.90 2 weekly Artemisio Vasilika (p670) Glyfa Oreï Istiea Skiathos 2½hr €14.70 2 daily Kotsikia Skyros Skopelos 3½hr €18.90 1-2 daily Agiokambos Town Angeli Edipsos Linaria Lihada Loutra Edipsou Agia Anna Strofylia Skyropoula Rovies Agios Camping Car ferry prices are roughly three times are several normal trains (€11.30, 5½ hours) Konstantinos Limni Pilio Arkitsa the price for one person. Some one-way and one intercity train (€20.70, 4½ hours). To Lamia Prokopi Paralia (46km) Hiliadou prices from the main ports: Gulf of Mt Dirfys Kymi Evia (1743m) Volos–Skiathos (€60) Paralia Kymis Agios Konstantinos–Skiathos (€65) Politika Steni STEREA EVIA ΕΥΒΟΙΑ Katheni Ohthonia ELLADA Psahna Skiathos–Skopelos/Alonnissos (€18-22) Nea Artaki E75 Evia Avlonari Evia (Paralia Kymis)–Skyros (€25) Halkida Neohori Milos Kalamos Evia (eh-vih-ah), Greece’s second-largest Livadia Camping Aliveri Hydrofoil island after Crete and a prime holiday des- Eretria Lepoura There are frequent daily hydrofoil links from To Delphi Lefkandi Amarynthos Krieza tination for Greeks, remains less charted by (51km) Bay Lake Dhistos both Agios Konstantinos and Volos to the foreign tourists. Its attractions include scenic Skala Thiva Gulf of Porto Zarakes Oropou Boufalo northern Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and mountain roads, challenging treks, unusual (Thebes) Evia Alonnisos only). Updated summer hydrofoil archaeological finds and mostly uncrowded Nea Agia Marina Styra Cape timetables are usually available in late April beaches. A mountainous spine runs north– Styra Kafireas from Hellenic Seaways (%210 419 9100; www.hel Kallianos south, dividing the island’s precipitous eastern Gulf of Dimosari Gorge Mt Ohi Alkyonides (1398m) lenicseaways.gr; Akti Kondyli & Etolikou 2, Piraeus GR-185 Corinth Gulf ATTICA Lenosei cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west Petalia Epanohori Gulf Marmari Myli 45). The timetable is also available from local Elefsina Potami coast. A number of ferry connections, as well (Eleusis) Rafina hydrofoil booking offices located in Volos To the Karystos Platanistos as a short bridge over the narrow Evripous Megara Peloponnese E94 Petali ( p254 ) and Agios Konstantinos ( p247 ). (20km) ATHENS Channel to the island’s capital, Halkida, con- nect the island to the mainland. The current HYDROFOIL CONNECTIONS TO EVIA & in the channel reverses direction around seven GETTING THERE & AWAY Athens’ Mavromateon terminal (%210 880 8080), THE SPORADES times daily, an event whose full explanation Air opposite Areos Park, there are frequent buses Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency has eluded observers since Aristotle. Skiathos airport receives charter flights from to Rafina (€2, one hour, every 45 minutes), Agios Konstantinos northern Europe. There are also domestic for Evia. Alonnisos 3hr €36.50 2 daily CENTRAL EVIA flight services available from Athens (see Skiathos 1½hr €26 2-3 daily After crossing the bridge to Halkida, the road p654 ). Skyros airport also handles domes- Ferry Skopelos 2½hr €35.40 2-3 daily veers south, following the coastline to Eretria, tic flights to and from Athens (see p669), as There are daily ferries to the Sporades from Volos a bustling resort and major archaeological site. well as occasional charter flights from Oslo both Agios Konstantinos and Volos, and Alonnisos 2½hr €31.50 3-4 daily Further on, a string of hamlets and fishing EVIA & THE SPORADES and Amsterdam. weekly ferries from Thessaloniki to the Spo- Skiathos 1¼hr €24.50 3-4 daily villages dot the route until the junction at rades, as well as five ferry routes connecting Skopelos 2¼hr €31.50 3-4 daily Lepoura, where the road forks north towards B u s Evia to the mainland. Glossa 1¾hr €25.50 2-3 daily Kymi. Several branch roads to the sea are From Athens’ Terminal B station (%210 831 Updated summer ferry timetables are usu- worth exploring, and the beach at Kalamos 7153; Liosion 260), there are buses departing to ally available in late April from the main ferry Train is exceptional. Halkida (€5.90, 1¼ hours, half-hourly); Par- companies: GA Ferries (%210 451 1720; www.ferries There is an hourly train service from Ath- Along the coastal road south of Eretria alia Kymis (€13.20, 3½ hours, two daily), for .gr/gaferries; Akti Miaouli & Kantharou 2, Piraeus) and ens’ Larisis station (%210 524 8829) to Halkida you may still see scorched hillsides from the Skyros; and to Agios Konstantinos (€12.90, Minoan Lines (%281 033 0301; www.ferries.gr/minoan (€5.10, 1½ hours) via Ioni. To Volos, there August 2007 forest fires, especially between 2½ hours, hourly), for the Sporades. From /domesticmain.htm; Thermopylon 6-10, Piraeus). EVIA & THE SPORADES EVIA & THE SPORADES 650 EVIA •• Central Evia Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com EVIA •• Northern Evia 651 the small towns of Amarinthos and Aliveri. Train busy waterfront taverna is known for well- perk up at dusk when the town square comes Inland, in the direction of Steni and Mt Dry- The Halkida train station (%22210 22386) is on the priced fresh fish, along with appetisers like to life. The port of Kymi (called Paralia fys, several villages were devastated by the mainland side of the bridge. Frequent trains taramasalata (purée of fish roe, potato, oil Kymis), 4km downhill, is the only natural fires, resulting in tragic loss of life. make the run to Athens, via Ioni (normal and lemon juice). harbour on the precipitous east coast, and the From the hillside town of Kymi, a rough but €5.10, 1½ hours, hourly; intercity €9.40, one departure point for ferries to Skyros. passable mountain road leads west above the hour, three daily) and to Thessaloniki, via Ioni GETTING THERE & AWAY The excellent Folklore Museum (%22220 22011; north coastline to Paralia Hiliadou ( opposite). (normal €12.90, 5½ hours, six daily; intercity Ferry h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun), 30m downhill from €33.10, 4½ hours, three daily). Ferries travel between Eretria and Skala Oro- the main square, has an impressive collec- Halkida Χαλκίδα pou (€1.40, 25 minutes, hourly). tion of local costumes and historical photos, pop 54,558 Eretria Ερέτρια including a display commemorating Kymi- Halkida (also called Halkis) was an impor- pop 3156 Steni Στενή born Dr George Papanikolaou, inventor of tant city-state in ancient times, with several Heading southeast from Halkida, Eretria is pop 926 the Pap smear test.