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Frommer's New York State from New York City to Niagra Falls 1St Edition New York State from New York City to Niagara Falls 1st Edition by Neil E. Schlecht, Rich Beattie, Brian Silverman & Karen Quarles Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-3929-9 Editor: Lorraine Festa Production Editor: Donna Wright Cartographers: Roberta Stockwell, Nicholas Trotter Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Niagara Falls’ Maid of the Mist Back cover photo: Thoroughbred racing at the Saratoga Race Course For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 Contents List of Maps vi 1 The Best of New York State 1 1 The Best Places to Stay . .1 7 The Best One-of-a-Kind 2 The Best Restaurants . .5 Experiences . .11 3 The Best Places for 8 The Best Historic Places . .12 Antiques Hounds . .7 9 The Best Places to 4 The Best Hikes . .7 Commune with Nature . .13 5 The Best Family 10 The Best Leaf-Peeping . .14 Vacation Spots . .8 11 The Best Four-Season Towns . .14 6 The Best Places for 12 The Most Adorable Towns . .15 Watersports . .9 13 The Best Oddball Attractions . .16 2 Planning Your Trip to New York State 18 by Karen Quarles 1 The Regions in Brief . .18 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information . .19 Travel Resource . .36 3 Money . .19 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . .36 4 When to Go . .21 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .38 New York State Calendar 10 Getting There . .40 of Events . .22 11 Getting Around . .44 5 Travel Insurance . .28 12 Tips on Accommodations . .46 6 Health & Safety . .29 13 Tips on Dining . .48 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .31 Fast Facts: New York State . .48 8 Planning Your Trip Online . .34 3 For International Visitors 52 by Karen Quarles 1 Preparing for Your Trip . .52 3 Getting Around the U.S. .59 Size Conversion Chart . .57 Fast Facts: For the 2 Getting to the U.S. .58 International Traveler . .60 4 The Active Vacation Planner 65 by Neil E. Schlecht 1 Visiting New York’s 2 Outdoor Activities National Parks . .65 from A to Z . .66 iv CONTENTS 5 New York City 73 by Brian Silverman 1 Getting There . .73 4 Where to Dine . .103 Manhattan’s Neighborhoods 5 Exploring New York City . .115 in Brief . .76 6 Shopping Highlights . .135 2 Getting Around . .83 7 New York City After Dark . .139 Fast Facts: New York City . .88 8 Highlights of the 3 Where to Stay . .89 Outer Boroughs . .146 6 Long Island & the Hamptons 153 by Rich Beattie 1 The North Shore . .153 4 Fire Island . .174 Sunday Driving . .160 Where the Boys 2 The North Fork . .163 (& Girls) Are . .176 Along the Long Island 5 The South Fork: Wine Trail . .166 The Hamptons . .178 3 South Shore Beaches: 6 Shelter Island . .185 Long Beach, Jones Beach & Robert Moses State Park . .172 7 The Hudson River Valley 190 by Neil E. Schlecht 1 Orientation . .190 3 The Mid-Hudson Valley . .209 2 The Lower Hudson Valley . .194 4 The Upper Hudson Valley . .221 Constitution Island/ Wine Trails & Farmer’s Warner House . .197 Markets . .226 Hudson Valley Hotels & Motels . .206 8 The Catskill Mountain Region 228 by Neil E. Schlecht 1 Orientation . .230 4 Northwestern Catskill Region 2 Southeastern Catskill (Delaware County) . .247 Region (Ulster County) . .231 Take Me Out to the Unique Lodging Last Century . .248 in Saugerties . .238 5 Southwestern Catskill 3 Northeastern Catskill Region Region (Sullivan County) . .253 (Greene County) . .240 CONTENTS v 9 The Capital Region: Saratoga Springs & Albany 260 by Neil E. Schlecht 1 Orientation . .260 3 Albany . .276 2 Saratoga Springs . .261 Albany’s Highs & Lows . .280 Hyde Collection Art Museum . .266 Hotel & Motel Chains Taking the Waters . .268 in the Albany Area . .286 More Places to Stay . .273 10 Central New York 289 by Rich Beattie 1 Cooperstown . .289 2 Utica & Environs . .297 11 The Finger Lakes Region 302 by Neil E. Schlecht 1 Orientation . .302 6 Rochester . .326 The Finger Lakes Wine Trails . .305 The Erie Canal . .330 2 Ithaca & Southern 7 Canandaigua Lake . .333 Cayuga Lake . .306 8 Geneva & Northern Cayuga Wine Trail . .308 Seneca Lake . .338 3 Watkins Glen & Southern 9 Seneca Falls & Northern Seneca Lake . .314 Cayuga Lake . .342 Seneca Lake Wine Trail . .316 The Underground Railroad . .346 4 Corning & Elmira . .317 Aurora’s Amazing Makeover . .347 5 Keuka Lake . .322 10 Skaneateles Lake . .347 Keuka Lake Wine Trail . .324 11 Syracuse . .352 12 The North Country 356 by Rich Beattie 1 Southern Adirondacks . .357 Backcountry Blunders . .374 Bowling with the Vanderbilts . .358 3 Thousand Islands . .374 2 Northern Adirondacks . .365 A Fishin’ Tradition . .382 13 Western New York 386 by Rich Beattie 1 Buffalo . .386 5 Niagara Falls . .408 2 Day Trips from Buffalo . .397 Kid Stuff in Canada’s “No séances, please.” . .399 Clifton Hill . .412 3 Letchworth State Park . .403 A Little Peace, Please . .418 4 Chautauqua Institution . .406 vi CONTENTS Index 419 List of Maps New York State 2 Downtown Saratoga Springs 263 Manhattan Neighborhoods 77 Downtown Albany 277 Manhattan Subways 85 Central New York 291 Downtown Accommodations, Cooperstown 293 Dining & Attractions 91 The Finger Lakes Region 303 Midtown Accommodations, Downtown Rochester 327 Dining & Attractions 92 The Adirondack Mountains 359 Uptown Accommodations, Dining & Attractions 94 Thousand Islands 375 Central Park 127 Western New York 387 Long Island 154 Downtown Buffalo 389 The Hudson River Valley 191 Niagara Falls 411 Catskill Mountain Region 229 An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s New York State, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Authors Neil E. Schlecht is a writer and photographer who travels frequently along the Hudson between an old farmhouse in northwestern Connecticut and New York City. He is the author of a dozen travel guides—including Spain For Dummies and Frommer’s guides to Texas, Cuba, and Peru—as well as art catalogue essays and articles on art and culture. Rich Beattie is a freelance writer who lives in New York City. Formerly the Managing Editor of Travel Holiday Magazine and Executive Editor of the adventure-travel site GORP.com, he now writes for Travel & Leisure, the New York Times, Four Seasons Hotel Magazine, Boating Magazine, and Modern Bride, among others. Brian Silverman, author of Frommer’s New York City, Frommer’s New York City From $90 A Day, and Portable New York City, has written about travel, food, sports, and music for publications such as Saveur, Caribbean Travel & Life, Islands, American Way, the New Yorker, and the New York Times. He is the author of several books including Going, Going, Gone: The History, Lore, and Mystique of the Home Run (HarperCollins), and co-editor of The Twentieth Century Treasury of Sports (Viking Books). Brian lives in New York, New York, with his wife and son. A native of Buffalo, New York, Karen Quarles now enjoys the temperate climate of New York City, where she works as a freelance writer and editor.
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