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4 Vol. 126, No. 40 • Friday, April 12, 2002 • Madison, Wisconsin 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 '00 2001

KCCO Awards Contracts Dairy Policy Still Undecided As Farm For At Least 81.6 Million Pounds Of Cheese, Seeks Bill Conferees Continue Negotiations More Mozz, Cheddar Kansas City, MO—USDA’s Kansas Washington—House and Senate and we in USDA need a result to program. That bill earmarks $500 City Commodity Office (KCCO) members resumed negotiations this implement as quickly as possible.” million in direct payments for dairy late last Friday announced the week on the new farm bill and lead- At the same Sparks Companies producers in 12 northeastern states awarding of contracts for a minimum ers said they hoped to finish work on conference that Veneman made her whenever the Class I price drops of 81.6 million pounds and a maxi- a compromise measure by the end of remarks, US Sen. Pat Roberts (R- below $16.94 per hundredweight; mum of 172.4 million pounds of April. KS) said he was “extremely disap- and $1.5 billion for producers in Mozzarella, pasteurized process It was the conference committee’s pointed” with the farm bill debate other states, triggered off the quar- American and natural American first meeting on the farm bill in and process. terly difference between the five- cheese for delivery between July 1, nearly a month. Negotiators had “Most of our farm groups have year moving average US all-milk 2002 and June 30, 2003. agreed last month on overall spend- seemed more interested in how many price and the US all-milk price for Specifically, KCCO awarded ing levels for a compromise bill, but dollars they can get out of the bill the quarter in question. indefinite-delivery, indefinite-quan- talks have been stalled on a long list instead of worrying about develop- In an attempt to reach a compro- tity contracts for a minimum of of issues, including dairy. ing policies that will bring us the mise between the Senate’s plan and 29,473,920 and a maximum of “Obviously, these are critical most benefit for the long-term future the House farm bill, which includes 62,937,320 pounds of Mozzarella; a days,” commented US Secretary of of agriculture,” Roberts said. no such dairy payment plan, the minimum of 40,471,200 and a max- Agriculture Ann M. Veneman on This has been “the most partisan” International Dairy Foods Associa- imum of 79,596,000 pounds of pas- Thursday. of the six farm bills he has worked tion (IDFA) reported today that US teurized process American cheese; Veneman thinks House Agricul- on, Roberts added. The Senate Rep. Collin Peterson (D-MN), the and a minimum of 11,685,950 and a ture Committee Chairman Larry “decided to craft a political docu- ranking Democrat on the House maximum of 29,846,250 pounds of Combest (R-TX) is “absolutely com- ment with goodies for every Democ- dairy subcommittee, has offered an natural American cheese. mitted to moving the process. He has rat up for re-election while alternate plan for consideration by For the Mozzarella contracts, the now said he is willing to keep the completely locking Republicans out conferees that would be nationwide purchase price for each delivery conferees. He’s willing to work, Fri- of the process.” in its application. month is the accepted differential day, Saturday, Sunday through this There are “many problems” with Peterson’s plan, according to price indicated plus the applicable weekend to try to get this process the Senate’s farm bill besides the pol- IDFA, would rely on setting up pro- previous month’s average of the moving.” itics that went into the legislation, duction bases. Payments would be Chicago Mercantile Exchange “We have to look to the fact that Roberts continued. Specifically, he made only on the historical milk (CME) cash market price for block we are running out time,” Veneman said, “we should not...create a dairy production base, not on any new cheese trading. Mozzarella contracts continued. “We need to put the dif- program that favors the Northeast production, thus creating a disincen- were awarded as follows: ferences aside, the politics aside over other regions of the country.” tive for expansion, IDFA said. •Land O’Lakes, Inc., Denmark, because right now people in the He was referring to the Senate WI: a minimum of 8,023,680 and a country are waiting to get a result farm bill’s $2 billion dairy payment • See Farm Bill Talks, p. 22 maximum of 16,007,040 pounds of Cheese Production Rose low moisture part skim (LMPS), Retail, Foodservice Demand Raises Domestic unfrozen, processor pack at a differ- 1.9% In Feb. Despite Mozz ential price of $0.0001-$0.0300 per Drop; Butter Output Jumps Production, Imports Of Blue-Veined Cheeses pound. Washington—US cheese produc- Madison—More expansive use of according to the Roquefort Associa- •Masters Gallery Foods, Ply- tion during February totaled 644.5 Blue-veined cheese on both the tion in New York. English Stilton, mouth, WI: a minimum of 9,031,680 million pounds, up 1.9 percent from retail and foodservice levels has with its creamy white surface and and a maximum of 16,007,040 February 2001 but down 7.6 percent increased domestic production and wrinkled gray coat, originated more pounds of LMPS, unfrozen, processor from January 2002, the US Depart- imports in recent years. than 200 years ago. pack, at a differential price of ment of Agriculture (USDA) Blue-veined cheeses, which are $0.0250-$0.0412 per pound. reported last Friday. marbled with a bluish-green mold, Domestic Consumption, Production •Lucille Farms Inc., Swanton, For the first two months of this reveal visible mold cultures within US consumption of Blue cheese has VT: a minimum of 403,200 and a year, cheese production totaled their interiors, wrote Steven Jenk- gained significantly in recent years. maximum of 804,200 pounds of 1.342 billion pounds, up 1.8 percent ins, in his “Cheese Primer.” Exam- Per capita consumption of Blue LMPS, unfrozen, processor pack, at a from the first two months of 2001 ples include American Maytag Blue, cheese in 1970 was 0.15 pound; differential price of $0.0900-$0.0950 and almost exactly the same as pro- English Stilton, French Roquefort, 1980, 0.17 pound; 1990, 0.17 per pound. duction during the first two months Italian Gorgonzola and Spanish pound; and 2000, 0.20 pound – a 33 •ConAgra Dairy Foods, Brook- of 2000 (which had an extra day due Cabrales. percent increase since 1970, or field, WI: a minimum of 4,999,680 to leap year). Cheese production in US production of Blue-veined roughly an 18 percent increase since and a maximum of 11,975,040 2000 went on to establish a new cheeses dates back less than a cen- 1990. • See Cheese Contracts, p. 16 record high of 8.255 billion pounds. tury. Researchers at the US Depart- Domestic production of Blue Among the leading regions in ment of Agriculture (USDA), Iowa cheese has likewise gained momen- cheese production during February, State University, University of Min- tum over the past decade. In 1980, IN THIS ISSUE the West’s output totaled 244.4 mil- nesota and Washington State Uni- domestic production totaled 33 mil- “Colby Market Problems’” p. 2-3 lion pounds, up 4.8 percent from versity, among others, were lion pounds; 1990, 36.4 million “Break Kosher Stranglehold p. 4 February 2001 but down 6.5 percent instrumental in developing manu- pounds; and 1998, 43.9 million from January 2002; the East North facturing methods for domestic pounds. The year 1998 was the last “Pinking in Cheeses” p. 6 year Blue cheese production was Central’s production totaled 195.8 Blue-veined cheeses. Lactose Prospects p. 10 million pounds, down 1.0 percent By contrast, French Roquefort reported separately by USDA’s was considered a delicacy by Roman Global Dry Milk Exports p. 39 • See Cheese Production, p. 40 legionnaires over 2,000 years ago, • See Blue-Veined, p. 34 Exports for More Profits p. 17 34 CHEESE REPORTER April 12, 2002

items over the past two years. Blue-Veined Per Capita Consumption Continued from p. 1 Arla, based in Denmark, imports its Rosenborg brand as well as private of Blue Cheese National Agriculture Statistics Ser- label Blue-veined cheeses to the US vice (NASS). through a nationwide broker net- This chart show a 33% 0.25 With Census Bureau population work. increase since 1970, or 0.23 estimates coupled with Blue cheese Kauffmann said the company’s about an 18% increase 0.21 importers/distributors sell about 70 imports and domestic production, since 1990. 0.19 percent of its cheese to the retail sec- this implies a market size of 42 mil- 0.17 tor and 30 percent to foodservice With the Census Bureau lion pounds in 1990, rising to 56 mil- 0.15 lion pounds by 2000. outlets. Arla’s Blue cheese is sold to population estimates, both white tablecloth restaurant this implies a market 0.13 Blue Cheese Imports Increase 50% chains and distributors such as Sysco, size of 42 million pounds 0.11 From 1991 through 2001, imports of Kauffmann said. in 1990, rising to 56 0.09 blue-veined cheeses increased almost Although Arla’s sliced Blue million pounds by 2000. 0.07 50 percent, according to the US cheese is faring well in the US and 0.05 1970 1980 1990 2000 Census Bureau and the US Depart- listed in most major supermarkets, ment of Agriculture’s (USDA) For- Kauffmann said the single largest enhanced working environment,” The menu of the Irish Democrat eign Agriculture Service (FAS). market in America for Blue cheese is said Jens Refslund, executive direc- Pub & Grille in Cedar Rapids, IA, Specifically, US imports of blue- exact-weight, crumbled consumer tor, Arla’s production division. has at least three entrees which use veined cheeses increased from 6.3 cups. Another Blue-veined cheese – world-renown Maytag Blue cheese, million pounds in 1991 to 9.4 mil- Arla Foods is currently in the Stilton – is leading the imports just made in Newton, IA, and are named lion pounds last year. process of restructuring its produc- behind Danish Blue. Stilton is now accordingly. The key sources of blue-veined tion of Danish Blue cheese. Subse- the number two imported Blue The restaurant features a Grilled cheese imports in 2001 include: quently, all production will take cheese in the US, outpacing Roque- Chicken Cobb Salad with Maytag Denmark, 4.7 million pounds, up 34 place at Arla’s dairy in Hogelund, fort by a two to one margin, accord- Blue, Beef Tenderloin Encrusted percent since 1991; United King- which will undergo a substantial ing to the Stilton Cheese Makers with Maytag Blue cheese and of dom, 1.6 million pounds, up 130 per- expansion and renovation. About Association (SCMA). course, the Maytag Blue Burger. cent since 1991; Germany, 1.2 28,500 additional square feet of At its 2001 annual meeting in “Those who recognize the name million pounds, up 148 percent since floorspace will be added, more than Melton Mowbray, United Kingdom, are dedicated to it,” said Scott Losh- 1991; France, 855,761 pounds, down doubling its capacity from 6,000 tons SCMA announced a substantial baugh, general manager. “We have 33 percent since 1991; and Italy, to 15,000 tons annually. The project increase in the amount of Stilton loyal followers.” 565,583 pounds, up 101 percent is slated for completion by summer exported to the US and abroad. since 1991. 2004. “Hard work by our exporters, dis- Jens Kauffmann, marketing man- “Alongside a substantial increase “This increased usage tributors and retail accounts to in restaurants is ager for Arla Foods, said the jump in in capacity, the Danish Blue project improve the presentation and avail- import sales is primarily due to a will result in a more flexible produc- ability of Stilton has produced some stimulating the retail sharp increase in retail Blue cheese tion structure and significantly outstanding results,” said Nigel demand for Blue, as White, secretary to the SCMA in consumers also want to London. experience these new “Our website continues to grow in popularity and promotional activity tastes in their home.” run in Manhattan by the Stilton US Josen continued. Information Bureau last fall gener- —Steve Josen, vice ated much retailer and consumer president of marketing for interest,” White continued. Saputo Cheese USA, The Stilton recipe and process, now almost 300 years old, is pro- tected by the European Union’s Loshbaugh said by using a distin- “Protected Designation of Origin” guished brand of cheese instead of a status, specifying the cheese may generic one and promoting its use, only be made from local milk from people are more likely to chose that the English counties of Derbyshire, menu item. Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire. “It somehow adds a little bit,” he Beyond Salad Dressings And Dips said. Best known as a flavor ingredient for Dairy trend analysts are also wit- salad dressings and dips, Blue nessing a growing presence of Blue cheese is now regularly used in cheese on menus. pasta dishes, omelets, crepes and “We’re seeing it used a lot more in soufflés, as well as a dessert paired restaurants these days, from sauces to with fresh fruit. salads,” said Nancy Fletcher, com- Chefs are increasingly using salad munications director with the Cali- dressings as a flavor carrier for fornia Milk Advisory Board entrees, appetizers and sandwiches, (CMAB). A. Elizabeth Sloan, president of “Domestically, some of our newest Sloan Trends & Solutions, Inc., cheese makers are producing Blue Escondido, CA, reported in the Jan- cheese,” Fletcher said. uary 2002 edition of the Institute of “We’re certainly seeing increased Food Technologists’ Food Technol- demand, both at the foodservice and ogy publication. retail levels,” she continued. According to the Chain Account Seasoned Blue cheese producers Menu Trendsetter Survey – a study agree. According to Steve Josen, vice which monitors independent restau- president of marketing for Saputo rants and smaller chains known to Cheese USA, a division of Canada- originate menu trends – more than based Saputo Inc. and manufacturer half of restaurant salad dressings are of Stella Blue, the trends for blue- flavored vinaigrettes, followed by veined cheese continue to exhibit Caesar at 18 percent and Blue cheese at 7 percent. • See Blue-Veined, p.47 April 12, 2002 CHEESE REPORTER 47

Blue-Veined expertise isn’t as great as those who Company and Terry Roll, also of In July 2000, Swiss Valley Continued from p. 34 live in San Francisco, New York or Maytag, joined the company on July embarked on a major renovation of Chicago,” Boersma said. “Still, peo- 1, 2000. its Mindoro plant due to increased solid growth potential in both the ple are getting excited about it Point Reyes Farmstead Blue demand of its Blue and Gorgonzola retail and foodservice markets. locally.” cheese is marketed in high-end spe- cheeses. The project was completed “An increasing amount of food- He added that the best way to cialty grocery stores and fine restau- last winter and the facility now pro- service operators continue to promote Blue cheese is to include a rants in California’s Bay Area. duces roughly 3 million pounds of include Blue cheese in their menus, quick, simple recipe on the package Recently, the company has expanded cheese annually. by offering traditional uses such as to encourage use. People appreciate its marketing area to include south- Plant manager Richard Glick has salads topped with Blue, as well as it, he said. ern California and the East Coast. been making Swiss Valley Blue Josen agreed that recipe ideas are cheese for the past five years and said creating new feature dishes by Seasoned Blue Cheese Makers adding Blue to a variety of appetizers an excellent way to increase Blue during his tenure, the consumption cheese sales. Saputo continues to Settled in the hills of southwestern of Blue-veined cheese has noticeably and main entrees,” he said. Wisconsin, Swiss Valley’s Mindoro “This increased usage in restau- attract customers through marketing increased. He attributes the hike in programs, and providing usage and plant was completely renovated in sales to new flavors and a new under- rants is stimulating the retail 2001 to accommodate increased demand for Blue, as consumers also recipe ideas, he said. standing of Blue cheese. “Additionally, Stella offers these sales of its premium Danish-style Glick admitted that imports are want to experience these new tastes Blue and Gorgonzola cheeses. in their home,” Josen continued. cheeses in wheels, wedges and con- giving domestic producers a run for venient crumbled varieties,” Josen Swiss Valley manufactures both their money, and companies need to varieties in wheels, wedges, crumbles Breaking Into Blue added. put out a superior product in order to and cups. The company has received Before receiving plaudits for his Another newcomer is the Point sustain a profit. award-winning specialty Cheddars, Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, One of the most recognized Bill Boersma, owner of Bravo Farms located on the dairy farm of the Gia- Domestic Production of domestic Blue cheeses is hand-made in Visalia, CA, began thinking comini family in Point Reyes, CA. Blue Cheese in the Midwest and shipped nation- about breaking into the Blue cheese The 250-head dairy has been owned Million pounds wide. market. and operated by Bob Giacomini 50 Each wheel of Maytag Blue is In late 1999, the company was since 1959. handmade from unpastuerized cow’s producing handmade medium Managing partner and daughter milk. The curd is hand-seeded with Cheddar, which Boersma said filled Jill Giacomini said the family chose 45 Penicillium roqueforti, then hand- the same slot as any commodity to make Blue cheese because of a ladled into hoops, salted and aged Cheddar. long-standing love of exquisite from five to six months in cellars “I didn’t know if that was the wis- food.“We chose to make Blue cheese 40 carved out into the hillside on the est way to go,” he said. “I’ve changed out of a two-fold love of food and a farm. my mind since then.” love of cooking,” Giacomini said. “In the last 10 years, we’ve tripled Over the past three years, Bravo “We knew we wanted it to be a high- 35 production,” said James Stevens, Farms’ specialty Cheddars have pre- end table cheese – something that president and CEO of Maytag Dairy vailed in California’s specialty we could showcase.” Farms. cheese market. Still, Boersma Prior to embarking on the ven- 30 Previously Maytag also produced 1980 1990 1998 wanted to try his hand at making ture, the Giacomini family did handmade Cheddar and Edam Blue. extensive research on the manufac- several awards for its Blue cheese, cheeses. However, due to the influx With the help of David Shultz, turing and marketing of cheese. including Best of Class in the presti- of orders, the company discontinued lead cheese maker at Bravo, the two After talking to food scientists, culi- gious British Empire Cheese Con- production of anything other than embarked on a term of experimenta- nary experts and the media, their test. The cheese has also won several the variety that made it famous. tion. decision to make Blue cheese was awards at the Wisconsin State Fair. “We had to stop production on “We went through a lot of cream reinforced. Since Swiss Valley has owned the everything else when we started run- to figure out how to coagulate it,” “Blue cheese is a complicated plant, there has been an increased ning short on Blue,” Stevens contin- Boersma said. “We also needed to cheese to make,” Giacomini said. “It effort in marketing this excellent ued. figure out what form or shape the also has more market opportunities.” product, which has resulted in an Stevens said he believes the long market would accept. We used every Artisan Blue cheese makers upswing in demand for Blue cheeses, aging process is a major factor hoop and then some that we could Monte McIntyre, former plant man- said Don Brick, vice president of Swiss responsible for the unique character find.” ager of the Maytag Blue Cheese Valley Farms’ marketing division. of Maytag Blue cheese.• The result is Bravo Bl’u, a triple creme Blue cheese that is between 81 and 82 percent fat. It has the tex- ture and mouthfeel of butter, with the snap of traditional Blue cheese taste. It’s definitely not a diet food, Boersma said. The cheese is currently made in limited production. The company produced a couple thousand pounds of its Bravo Bl’u during 2000, although now that a standardized form has been completed, Boersma predicts a 10-fold increase in pro- duction this year. It is available at select specialty groceries like Whole Foods and Bris- tol Farms throughout Northern and Southern California. Also, the com- pany gained four new distributors since October and Bravo Bl’u can now be purchased in the Portland/ Seattle areas. Boersma anticipates a steady climb in the consumption of Blue cheese as American palates become more cosmopolitan. “We’re kind of out in the hinter- lands of California and our culinary