OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN
VISITBARCELONA.COM ENGLISH EDITION!
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Through the centuries, Barcelona PLUS! TOP CHEESE SELLERS, has inspired countless authors – UNMISSABLE STREET discover our selection of the books MUSICIANS, that capture the spirit of the city LOCAL CRAFT BEERS... 4,95€ APR 2016 #017 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Time Out Barcelona in English The Best April 2016
L’Hospitalet is one of the of BCN cities that borders Barcelona. We cross the frontier to discover its secrets and must-visit places p. 22
Features 16. A good read $CTEGNQPCJCUKPURKTGFYTKVGTUHQTEGPVWTKGU 6QOCTM5CPV,QTFKVJKUOQPVJYJGPVTCFKVKQP FKEVCVGUYQOGPIKXGOGPCDQQM CPFKPVWTP get a rose), author David Castillo picks some of his favourite books based in the city. 22. Just next door L’Hospitalet is the second biggest city in %CVCNQPKCCPFKVDNGPFUKORGTEGRVKDN[YKVJ Barcelona. Albert Balanzà takes you on a tour. 26. All about cheese If cheese is your thing, and let’s be honest, YJ[YQWNFPoVKVDG.CWTC%QPFGJCUVJG shops for you. 28. Hear them play Street musicians perform all around the city. Maria Junyent introduces some of our HCXQWTKVGUCPFVGNNU[QWYJGTGVQƁPFVJGO Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 61. LGBT 62. Clubs 64. Getaways $CTEGNQPCoUUVTGGVUCTGƁNNGFYKVJVWPGUVJCPMUVQ With craft beer currently booming, discover 66. BCN Top Ten VJGOWUKEKCPUYJQRGTHQTOQWVFQQTUp. 28 some of the top local varieties p. 58
8KC.CKGVCPCCRNCPVC^$CTEGNQPC^6 TGFCEEKQ"VKOGQWVECV Printer.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor/CTÉC,QUÅ)ÏOG\^Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Legal deposit B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website/CPWGN2ÅTG\^Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover /CTEGNQ#RCTKEKQ#NDGTV$CNCP\¼.CKC$GNVTCP,CXKGT$N½PSWG\®UECT$TQE#FC%CUVGNNU&CXKF%CUVKNNQ.CWTC%QPFG+TGPG(GTP½PFG\$GIQÍC)CTEÉC+XCP)KOÅPG\/CTKC IRISNEGRO Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, Martí Sales, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising 6^/GTEGFGU#TEQPCFCOCTEQPCFC" VKOGQWVECV^%CTOG/KPIQEOKPIQ"VKOGQWVECV^Marketing %NCTC0CTXKÏPEPCTXKQP"VKOGQWVECV^Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English Edition 2WDNKUJGFWPFGTVJGCWVJQTKV[CPFYKVJVJGEQNNCDQTCVKQPQH6KOG1WV+PVGTPCVKQPCN.VF.QPFQP7-6JGPCOGCPFNQIQQH6KOG1WV CTGWUGFWPFGTNKEGPEGHTQO6KOG1WV)TQWR.VF6QVVGPJCO%QWTV4QCF.QPFQP96#$7- ^All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2016
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 3 The BCN_APR 2016 hot list FRIDAY SATURDAY 01 02 Carmen Lapsus Festival Dance Music #ƂCOGPEQVCMGQPC Celebration of classic story. See p. 53 electronica. See p. 46
SUNDAY WEDNESDAY FRIDAY 03 06 08 FC Barcelona vs. Real Madrid Hotel Tapa Tour Anastacia Football Food and drink Concert The classic confrontation Hotels offer tasty bites to US singer performs at returns. See p. 36 tempt you. See p. 37 L’Auditori. See p. 46
Masterpieces from the Phillips Collection. Major art Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra. Visiting classical DON’T MISS! exhibition at the CaixaForum. TUE 5. See p. 50 music group in concert at L’Auditori. MON 18. See p. 48
SUNDAY THURSDAY SATURDAY THURSDAY 10 14 16 21 Sara Baras – Voces Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Trofeu Conde Godó Festival D’A Flamenco Classical music Tennis Cinema Dance star brings latest 2QRWNCTYQTMCVJKUVQTKECN Annual contest played on International festival of UJQYSee p. 53 basilica. See p. 47 clay. See p. 38 CWVGWTƁNOSee p. 39
FRIDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY THURSDAY 22 23 23 28 Beergarten Simon Boccanegra Sant Jordi Festival Romà Food and drink Opera Traditions History Poble Espanyol hosts Plácido Domingo takes A day full of roses and Badalona marks its beer festival. See p. 40 the main role. See p. 43 books. See p. 16 classical past. See p. 40
4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 5 I love BCN Parc de Cervantes Av. Diagonal, 706
This rose garden has 10,000 What am I bushes featuring 2,000 species. )QCPFUOGNNVJGƂQYGTU doing here?
Jan Fleischer Reading Barcelona
A couple of us on the Time Out Barcelona English Edition team YGTGFKUEWUUKPIVJKUOQPVJoUEQXGT story on top books that take place KPQWTHCKTCFQRVGFEKV[ UGGRCIG YJGPYGYGTGUJQEMGFVQ TGCNKUGJQYHGYYGoFTGCFDGVYGGP WU+VYQWNFUGGOYGoXGIQVUQOG catching up to do. There’s something about reading a story set in a city you’re in that not only OCMGU[QWUC[n+MPQYVJCVRNCEGo or ‘I’m sitting in the very square I’m TGCFKPICDQWVoDWVCNUQOCMGU[QW feel more a part of the city itself. Travelling through Spain years ago I YCUTGCFKPI*GOKPIYC[oUThe Sun Also Rises CMCFiesta CPFYJGP+ RCUUGFVJTQWIJ2CORNQPCKVYCU NKMG+YCUKPVJGUVQT[UWTTQWPFGFD[ it. In the case of Barcelona, so many XKUKVQTUJCXGVTKGFVQƁPFVJGURQVU FGUETKDGFKPVYQDGUVUGNNGTUUGV JGTG UGGRCIGVQƁPFQWVYJKEJ VJCV[QWECPPQYƁPFIWKFGFVQWTU based on them. Cities play an KORQTVCPVTQNGKPUVQTKGUYJGVJGT they’re in the pages of a book or on VJGDKIUETGGPEQWNFYGJCXG 9QQF[#NNGPYKVJQWV0GY;QTM!#PF FQPoVHQTIGVJGoUCNUQƁNOGFKP Barcelona. It’s a city that speaks to RGQRNGVJCVCYCMGPUCPFKPURKTGU creativity. Looking over the list of WTF IS... books in this issue, editor Hannah .GCTPVQURGCM$CTEGNQPCYKVJQWTXQECDIWKFG^$[Jan Fleischer Pennell and I did happen to notice VJGNCEMQHYQOGPoUPCOGUCOQPI VJGYTKVGTUCPFFGEKFGFVJCVUKPEG YGJCXG$CTEGNQPCCUCOCKP EJCTCEVGTKPVJGUVQT[QHQWTQYP Capgròs NKXGUCNNYGJCXGVQFQKUYTKVGVJQUG UVQTKGUVQLQKPVJGNKUV$WVƁTUVYGoXG got 11 or 12 books to read... +PHGUVKXCNUYKVJRCTCFGUKP$CTEGNQPCCPFCETQUU%CVCNQPKC[QWoNNNKMGN[UGGVJGcapgròs cap-GROS), or big-head, marching and dancing along. They are the same size and shape as Jan has yet to read a book JWOCPUDWVYKVJCIKCPVJGCFQHECTVQPRKGTTGCPFQHVGPTGRTGUGPVCTEJGV[RGUQHVJGVQYP in Catalan.
6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 7 People of Barcelona Martina Kunst Singer and guitarist, BCN: 35 years old TOP SECRET
B. García & M. Sales Kunst means ‘art’ in German. 6JCVoUTKIJV+FKFYQPFGTCDQWV not keeping it as my artistic name, _The Convent DWVKPVJGGPFFGEKFGF+YQWNF After all, it’s my real surname. dels Caputxins in Sarrià (Cardenal You’ve been making music since arriving in Barcelona. Did the city Vives i Tutó, 2) has awaken your vocation? an ethnographic ;GU[QWEQWNFUC[VJCV9JGP+ YCUNKVVNG+JCFCIWKVCTDWVO[ museum with QYPOWUKEYCUFQTOCPVsKV objects brought ended up expressing itself here. I think there’s more inspiration. by missionaries from the Andean- In what way? The atmosphere, architecture and Amazonian part of nightlife, and things are more Colombia. spontaneous here than in Germany. In 2002, I started _The small Plaça visiting each year, until I decided Víctor Balaguer VQUVC[9JGPGXGT+YGPVDCEMVQ )GTOCP[+PQVKEGFUQOGVJKPIYCU $QTP KUPCOGF missing and needed to return. MARIA DIAS after the man Whereabouts do you live? Do you see yourself more as a YJQKPVJGVJ I think I’ve moved eight times, to singer-songwriter or a rocker? century, chose the areas including la Teixonera, #OKZQHVJGVYQ+VJKPMQHO[UGNH close to Camp Nou, the Born, CUCUKPIGTUQPIYTKVGTDGECWUG+ designations for Sagrada Família and the Raval. started playing alone, but I’d like some of the city’s #PFPQY$CTEGNQPGVC VQOQXGOQTGVQYCTFUTQEM+oO used to listening to ’90s bands biggest roads. Barceloneta has lots of tourists. NKMG0KTXCPCCPF2GCTN,COCUYGNN Do you understand why some AN OBJECT: CU,QJPP[%CUJCPFVJGDNWGUs A+PƂCOGPEQ locals are worried? A SODA SIPHON the music that my dad played. star Lola Flores Absolutely, even though I’m lucky Kunst associates them with GPQWIJVQNKXGKPCJQWUGYJGTG Barcelona’s many vermouth bars You’re putting together an EP ƁNOGFCXGTUKQP there aren’t any problems. I’ve – they’re a rarity in Germany. produced by Steven Munar. of ‘America’ from NKXGFKP4GIGPUDWTIYJGTG +OGVJKOYJGP+RNC[GFCV#RQNQ there’s also a lot of tourism. The YKVJ6JG6GC5GTXCPVUCETC\[ West Side Story in VQYPKUC70'5%19QTNF*GTKVCIG ITQWRs+NQXGFVJGKTCVVKVWFG Barcelona (see it Site, and for me that’s enriching. .CVGTQP+YQTMGFYKVJJKOQPC HQNMTQEMUQWPFYKVJFGRVJCPF on YouTube). What are you trying to explain lots of texture. He’s given my _Check out the with your songs? songs intensity. 4GƂGEVKQPUQPNKHGCPFGOQVKQPCN grasshopper, OQOGPVUn(KPF[QWoVJGƁTUVQPG PLACE OF ORIGIN: Do you feel you’re at the start poised to jump, on that I uploaded onto the internet, POPPENRICHT of a career? talks about the death of a loved It’s in Bavaria, about an hour from I haven’t thought about it like that, top of the Col·legi QPGsCHCEVVJCVOCMGU[QW Nuremberg. Later, she moved to DWVUQOGVJKPIKUFGƁPKVGN[ Fo#RCTGNNCFQTU $QP EQPHTQPV[QWTQYPOQTVCNKV[+PVJG the town of Regensburg. happening. I’ve found music late, middle of last month, I put up DWV+VJKPMKVoNNCNYC[UDGYKVJOG Pastor, 5, Sarrià). another one, ‘Get on’, an internal conversation after a break-up. –Jordi Bianciotto
8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 9 See the city from on high with the Montjuïc cable car. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA
These big matches date from the 1992 Olympics.
Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agusti Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born VJCVoURCEMGFYKVJDQWVKSWGUYJGTG Trees and parks Start at the Gothic cathedral just you can pick up some designer 5VCTV[QWTFC[YKVJCDKI off Via Laietana. It’s at least 1,500 shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring COOL HUNTING breakfast among the tree-lined years old and has recently home. As you’re strolling around, Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Eixample Esquerre. undergone extensive renovation MGGR[QWTG[GQWVHQT+XQTK /KTCNNGTU Chino’, the Raval has inspired 8GNQFTQOQ /WPVCPGT YQTMU0GZVJGCFVQ$QTP%GPVTG CPGZSWKUKVGUJQRYKVJNQECN OCP[CYTKVGT0QYCFC[U opens at 6am, for those of you %WNVWTCN 2N%QOGTEKCN CPKTQP FGUKIPU1P.CPF 2TKPEGUC KVoUCRNCEGYJGTGNQECN TGCNN[MGGPVQIGVIQKPIYJKNG and glass structure built in 1876 YJGTGDQVJOGPCPFYQOGPECP businesses thrive in the 6TCXGN%CMG 4QUUGNNÏ as a market. From there you can ƁPFPGYVJTGCFUCPF5VWFKQUVQTG form of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and stop in at the spectacular Santa %QOGTÃ YKVJGXGT[VJKPIHTQO TGUVCWTCPVUYJKNGUVKNN JCUCPGENGEVKEOGPWQHUYGGV /CTKCFGN/CTEJWTEJ 2NFG5CPVC ENQVJGUCPFG[GYGCTVQQTKIKPCN maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once Maria, 1). Just next to it is Fossar cushions. UGGF[WPFGTYQTNFINCOQWT you’ve got your energy levels up, FGNGU/QTGTGUCUSWCTGYKVJITGCV Urban culture is booming jump on public transport and UKIPKƁECPEGVQVJGRGQRNGQH here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural $CTEGNQPCKVYCUDWKNVQXGTC 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. YQPFGT2CTM)ØGNNsDQQMQP EGOGVGT[YJGTGVJQUGYJQFKGF It’s time to eat YYYRCTMIWGNNECVGPVQGPUWTG ƁIJVKPIVQFGHGPFVJGEKV[KPVJG For dinner, try the Asian tapas at you get in to the ‘monumental’ 5KGIGQH$CTEGNQPCYGTG /QUSWKVQ %CTFGTU sVJG[oNN but can graze from 17 different food \QPGCPFUCXGCGWTQ$QPWU DWTKGF#PGVGTPCNƂCOGJQPQWTU OGNVKP[QWTOQWVJ#NYC[UCUWTG ‘stalls’. To top off the night, head in the memory of the fallen. thing is a meal in one of the city’s the direction of the sea and have a fresh markets, such as Santa FTKPMKP#DUGPVC 5CPV%CTNGU 12:00-14:00 %CVGTKPC #X(TCPEGUE%CODÏ to be sure to get a good night’s Gracious living 17:00-19:30 YKVJKVUCVVGPVKQPFTCYKPITQQHVQRQT sleep, or try the more upscale )TCDCDKVGFQYPVJGJKNNKP Sustenance and shopping VT[/GTECV2TKPEGUC (NCUUCFGTU DO YOU KNOW? On Sant Jordi (April 23), Catalonia’s most romantic day, around six million roses are given to lovers, friends and family. 10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS This artwork is one of Barceloneta’s most famous landmarks. 2NFGNC.NKDGTVCV %CUC2NCPGNNU &KCIQPCN plentiful gardens, such as the specialising in old-school local Alternatively, take L5 of the metro 19:30-02:00 ,CTFKPU.CTKDCN 2I5CPVC/CFTQPC HQQFQTKHVJGYGCVJGToUPKEGKPC from the Sagrada Família station Big night out 2). Another highlight is the Museu square such as Plaça del to the Diagonal stop and stroll 6T[VJGQWVQHVJKUYQTNFFQWDNG Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Diamant or Plaça de la Vila de FQYP2CUUGKIFG)T¼EKCVQJKVVJG VGTTCEGQH+PXKUKDNGs2K\\C4CXCNQ /0#% YKVJKVUCORNGEQNNGEVKQPU Gràcia. While you’re in the area, modernisme biggies: La Pedrera 2N'OKNK8GPFTGNN 6GTGUC and varied temporary exhibitions. have a look around for some 2TQXGPÃC %CUC#OCVNNGT Carles for a healthy vegetarian unusual souvenirs in the shop- 2IFG)T¼EKC CPF%CUC QRVKQP ,QXGNNCPQU QTVJG NKPGFUVTGGVUsUWIIGUVKQPU $CVNNÏ 2IFG)T¼EKC Mediterranean banquet that is Lo 13:00-15:00 include Boo for clothes FG(NQT %CTTGVGU #HVGTNKPKPI End on a beach spot $QPCXKUVC CPF/CIPGUKC your stomach, get a couple of drinks Take the cable car from Montjuïc to 6QTTGPVFGNo1NNC QT/WGDNÅ in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the $CTEGNQPGVCYKVJKVUDGCEJGUCPF /CTVÉPG\FGNC4QUC HQT bar-laden street of Joaquín Costa DQCVUYJGTG[QWECPTGNCZYKVJC JQOGYCTGU CPFTGURGEVKXGN[ CPFVJGP vermouth and a paella. Most WANDER OFF GCUGQPFQYPVQVJGFCPEGƂQQTUCV restaurants in Barceloneta Many visitors stick to the #RQNQ 0QWFGNC4CODNC specialise in seafood, taking 14:30-18:00 centre, but the city is so much CPFQT/CTWNC 'UEWFKNNGTU advantage of the nearby Med. The Explore modernisme more. Gràcia is full of life at all prime real estate means some of Next stop: the Sagrada Família. hours, Sarrià retains much of the better spots aren’t cheap, but if Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very KVUJKUVQTKECNUOCNNVQYPHGGN 10:00-12:00 [QWoTGHGGNKPIƂWUJVJG[oTGYQTVJKV ETQYFGFDWVKVoUYQTVJVCMKPI YJKNG2QDNGUGECPF5CPV Mountain climbing 6T[%CP5QNÅ 5CPV%CTNGU .C your time to appreciate his Antoni are currently the in Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. /CT5CNCFC 2I,QCPFG$QTDÏ XKUKQP1PEGFQPGYCNMQXGTVQ places, thanks to their top &GRGPFKPIQPYJCV[QWoTGKPVJG QT'N5WSWGVFGNo#NOKTCNN 2I,QCP Av. Diagonal to keep the cuisine and quality nightlife. OQQFHQT[QWECPXKUKVVJG,QCP/KTÏ FG$QTDÏ #ITGCVRNCEGHQTVJG modernisme theme going by And head up to the Vall (QWPFCVKQP 2CTEFG/QPVLWËEUP OQTGDWFIGVEQPUEKQWUYKVJC stopping at Casa de les Punxes Fo*GDTÏP1N[ORKEUKVGVQ the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy 4QUUGNNÏ 2CNCWFGN$CTÏ check out the huge matches. nearby constructions from the FKUJGUVQIQYKVJVJGKTTGNCZGFXKDG FG3WCFTCU &KCIQPCN CPF )COGUQTYCNMCTQWPFVJG KU5CPVC/CTVC )TCWK6QTTCU