PDF

Accessible Rio de Janeiro

PDF ebook Edition 1st Edition Release Date August 2016 Pages 160 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Supplied to Paralympic Contactathletes by Lonely us Planethere

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. How to Use This Book

Top Sights features provide in-depth 3 coverage of the city’s very best sights. easy-to-use sections IPANEMA BEACH

Plan Your Trip Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

Your planning tool kit 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING DRINKING & SPORTS & 6 NIGHTLIFE 2 ACTIVITIES Explore All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, Your complete city guide starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Top Sights features, in-depth Sights are arranged in the geographic order that reviews and local tips. we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Survival Guide range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information to help These symbols and abbreviations give vital you have a smooth trip. information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking apt apartments a Air-conditioning d double rooms i Internet access dm dorm beds plus W Wi-fi access q quad rooms full-color s Swimming pool r rooms map section v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites

148 148 149 149

0 0 500 m 500 m

e# 0 e# 0 0.25 miles 0.25 miles

w w j i i A A A B A B B C B C C D C D D E D E E F E F F G F G G H G H H j H

Parque Parque Parque Parque Custódio Custódio See map See map c Nacional da Nacional da Lage Lage Serrão Serrão p150 p150

a a Family-friendly tr triple rooms a

Tijuca Tijuca ún ún a c

ta ta c i

I I #÷ #÷ i

l a a o l o

1 1 c uz c uz #÷ 5 #÷ 5 r r 1 1 é 1 is1 o is o ico ico é 1 1

V S V S Botân d Botân d g

m m g

R e R e R Jardi R Jardi n n

R R

n d d n

s s a a G G A

ê ê e A e

l i l i

g r g r LAGOA L LAGOA F L F a

n n a i

I Pe I Pe 12#ú i 12#ú i i o o

Á Á r

R R r

R R lexan lee xan e

r

d d r

a A r A r a

Faro R Faro R v e Fer v e Fer n n F

R R reira reira F R R t t VEA, JARDIM BOT JARDIM VEA, BOT JARDIM VEA, M

O O A A M

JARDIM JARDIM

e e R

l l orge orge R R R i R i R o o v v v B s de v B s de Morro da Morro da o e o e M M d d d BOTÂNICO d BOTÂNICOc i c i A edeiroA edeiro a a a a s s Saudade Saudade

r r h ra h ra e e v a a v Z Z R a R a Parque Parque R R S S (245m) (245m) s o s o J J w w e c e c J J Tom Jobim Tom Jobim a a agalh or agalh or S S M M R RM M R R u u R Fernando R FReCrnando L R C L ea ea # o o d d #þ a v pe #þ a v pe br br #þ17 18 r #þo 17 s Q 18 r o s Q a a a a t t Pet-friendly tw twin rooms n u n u i i i i d d u nt u nt #û #û a a e e #ú 10 s #ú 10 s s s ão ão R Av LRin eu de Av Lineu de 2 2 L2e 14 L2e 14 Sa Sa 2 2 2 2 o o d tu Paulda tu Paula ec ec e rn e rn ch ch B in Macha Bdo in Machado a a R rit o R rit o R P R P Ge o Ge o NICO & LAGOA & NICO LAGOA & NICO n Ga n Ga Jardim Jardim rz rz   Botânico Botânico on on Ilha Ilha R R Piraquê Piraquê Morro dos Morro dos g Jardim Jardim #æ 1 #æ 1 s s Cabritos Cabritos

a a   Botânico Botânico o o o o Bus r r s s (385m) (385m) o o i i s s c c NICO &LAGOA NICO &LAGOA i i e e e e

n n d Parque d Parque P P â â t t e e io io 3 o 3 o dos dos c c See map See map 3 3 3 113 B 11 B M M á á 3 3 3 3 â# â# Patins Patins it it e e p146 p146 #ú m #ú m p p d d #æ 2 #æ 2 di di E E r r s s v v hg hg a a A ParqAue da Parque da J J e e g g Catacumba Catacumba R R r r o LAGOA o LAGOA w w az az B B s V s V ben ben v v Ru Ru A A 4 #÷ 4 #÷ jor jor 7 7 Ma #û Ma #û 21 21 #ú #ú Ø# 22 Ø# 22 R Pç Santos R Pç Santos Av E Av E

VEA, JARDIM BOT VEA, JARDIM BOT p p 15 Dumont 15 DØ#umont Ø# #ú #ú it it 9 #ú #þ 9 #ú #þ ác ác

Á Á Parque do Parque do s 19 s 19 Lagoa Lagoa io LAGOA io LAGOA Oiti #ú Oiti #ú Joquei Joquei Cantagalo P Cantagalo P G G os os Kiosks Kiosks e e d 8 o d 8 o Hipódromo Hipódromo R i R i Clube Clube s s 4 4 s 4 s 4 4 v 4 v 4 4 A A da Gávea da Gávea #ú o #ú o u u #þ e á #þ e á Lagoa a Lagoa a e e 20 t t v 20 t t v p o p o n n r r e e i i O B O B Kiosks Kiosks ic ic e e GÁVEA V GÁVEaA V a Ø# Ø# om r om r o o oR r oR r 13 13 P P ã g t ã g t i i Paddle Paddle S A o S A o R Lou R Lou e r e r #ú #ú r l r l

d d do d o Boats Boats s tu s tu Cantagalo Cantagalo uê r o uê m r o Emstádio Estádio ¡# ¡# q A qR A R Av H Av H For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. r r e e e e R Ma RrMa r José Bastos José Bastos nrique Dodsworth nrique Dodsworth a v u a v u i i û# û# a U a U p A p A ro Padilha ro Padilha lm lr lm lr M ibei M ibei ja ja e ário Re áCriloubRe de Clube de D ic D ic 6 æ# 6 æ# i M (Estái dio Mda (Estádio da 16 R 16 h R h

t R Pç NS t R Pç NS Parque Parque w r r w e e Regatas Regatas e e u u Gávea) Gávea) e Auxiliade ora Auxiliadora Brigadeiro Brigadeiro R R R R Gávea ¡# Gávd eaq ¡# d q Flamengo Flamengo e e A Faria Lima A Faria Lima dr r dr A r A M M a n a n P a P a v v v c e v cd e d Morro do Morro do o o A A (opening A n(opening A n o o a a s e s e 5 5 a o a A o A 5 5 Fr u Fr u rd v rd v 5 c 5 c 5 5 el el l Ca l l Ca l f f Cantagalo Cantagalo b o b o Bo o B n q n q t t s s r r a a in 2017) o in 2017) o e r e r o o Le i Le e i ilb e ilb o o Ilha dos Ilha dos s s â â s s u u G G r R r F R rg F rg Pe Pe (202m) (202m) V V n e n e o o t tr r i i b o b o s s Caiçaras Caiçaras c c l l a a á á See map See map i d i d t t v v See map See map o e o e Parque pi Parque pi F n F n E E A eA e Me Me Av Av A A de de c c ir ir p144 rr LEpB14L4ON rd r LEBLON d os os Tom Jobim Tom Jobim p142 p142 e e e o e o

ir e ir e

d d a a

w ji ji ji ji w A A A B A B B C B C C D C D D E D E E F E F F G F G G H G H H H w w æ Top Sights æ æTo Tpo Spi gShigtsh ts æp T6o2p Súig Ehattsin g p6p26 2ú úEa Etiantgin g p62 úp E5a4t inûg Drinking &p N5pi4g5 h4tû lif ûDe r Dinrkininkgin &g N&pi gN5hi4gt lhiftûelip f De5 5ri nk in19g P&r aNçiga hStalinpfte5op 5s5 D5 u m1 9o 1nP9t r aPAçrnatç iSqaau Sneat onpst5o D5su Dm uom1n9ot nPAtrn aAtçinqatu iSqeau net os Dumont Antique 1 Jardim Botânic o.. .1.. ..J.1.a ..rJ.d.a..ir.m.d..i .mB...o .B.t.â.o.n.t.â.i.c.n.o.i.c.... o...... C.1. .3.J. .a..r ..d..i.m.7. . .BA...ro.a.t.bâ...n. .d...i..ca..o .L...a...C..g....3o..C. a..3...... 7...... A..7... .r..aA....b..r..a.. .d..b...a.. ..d ..L..a..a.. ..Lg....ao...Cg.a..3o.... a...... D.7.. 4.A.. .r.a. ..b.1. 4.d.. a..B .L.a.a.r..g.. ..d.o..o.a. .H...... o.....r.D..t..o.4..D.. ...4...... 1.. .4..... 1...B4..... a....Br.... a..d...r.o.. ..d ..H..o....o. .H..r....to..o...rD..t..o.4...... 1...4B.. .2.B. .a.. .r. .d..o... H...o..F...r.a..t.oi.r...... B...... 2..B. ..2...... F..a..Fi.r.a.....i.r...... B.....2...... B...4.. ..F..a...ir...... B.....4..B. ..4...... B4

8 Braseiro da Gáv ea 8.. .B8... r.aB...sr..ea..is.r.eo..i .rd.o.a.. d. G..a.á. .Gv..eá..a.v ..e....a.8.B.. 4.B.. .r..a ..s.1.e.5.i.r .o.H.. di.p..a.ó. .Gd..rá...o.v...m.e...ao.B.....4.....B. ...4...... 1.. ..5.... 1...H.5.... i..p..H....ó.i..p.d....ór....od....mr...o...o.m...... o.B.....4...... 1..B5.. .4.H. ..i.p ..ó.2.d.0.r. .o.S.m.h...o..p.....p.....i..n....g...... d.B...a..4.. BG. ..4á. . v.2.e. .0a..2 ...0S..... h...S..o....hp....op....p.i..n..p...g..i..n ..d..g..a.. .d .BG.a.4.á. G. v..eá. .av.2.e..0A.a.. 4.S. ..h..o..p...p..i.n..g.. .d..a... G...á...v....e...Aa..4..A. ..4...... A4

æ Sights æ æSi gShigtsh ts æp S5i3g h ts 9 Guimas...p..5..p.3.5. ..3...... 9.. ..G9... u.G.i.m.u..i.am..s..a....s...... p....5.....3...... 9.A.. 4.G.. .u.. i.m....1...6.a.. s..P....a.....l.a.....p.....h....i..t..a...... K..A...i..t4..c.A .h.4...... 1.. .6..... 1...P.6.... a....Pl..a..a..p..l..a.h...p..i.t...ha....i ..tK..a...i.. t.K.cA..ih.t4.c.. ..h...... 1..6G.. .5.P. .a..l.a..p...h..i.t.a... K....i..t..c...h...... G...... 5.G. ..5...... G5

2 Lagoa Rodrigo d e 2F rLe2ai tLgaaosg.a..o .R.a.o. .Rd..o.r.i.dg..ro.i.g. d.o..e. .d .F.e.r. e2FEi r3tLea aistg .a..os1..a0.. .R.J.o.o..dj.ö.r.i..g....o...... d....e...... FE.....r3..e.E .i.3t. .a ..s1.. 0.. .1.0J..o. .Jj..ö..o...... j...ö...... E....3...... 1..0.B.. 2.J... .o.....j.ö...... B.....2...B ..2...... B2 Ø Sports & ActivitiØes ØS p Soprtosr t&s A&c AticvtiitvieitsiØ eps S 5p7 orts & Activitieps 5p75 7 p57 3 Museu do Meio Am 3 bM3ie unMsteu.us..e .d.u.o. .d .M.o.. e.M..io..e. .Ai.o.m. .A..bm.3Bie b3nMi eteun .st.e.1..u1. . .dL..oa.. . MB...i.ec..iy.o.c. .Al.e.m.tB.t..be3.Bi .e.3.n . .t.e.1. ..1.. ..1..L..1..a. ...L. .B...a...i.. c.B...y..i..c....ly..e..c..t..l.t.e..e..t.B.t...e3...... 1..B1.. 3.L.. .a.. þ.B..i. cS..y.h.c..ol.e..p..t..p..t.e.i.n....g...... B...... 3..B ..3..þ. .. .þS...h. S.o..h.p..op..p.i.np..g.i.n. .g...... B3 þp S56ho p p2in1 gJ oquei Clpub5pe65. ..6. . ...2 ..1. .2.J.1.o. .Jq..o.u.q.e..ui. .Ce..il. u.C..b.lp.ue..b5.....e6...... 2..C.1.. 4.J. .o..q...u..e..i. .C...l..u.....b..e...... C.....4..C. ..4...... C4 4 Parque da Cata cu 4m bP4a aPr..q.a.u.r.qe..u. d..e.a. .d .C.a.a. .C.t.a.a.c.t.au.. cm..u.b4Gma 4bP. .a.a. .r.q..1u.2..e .. L.d.a.a.. C...a.a.r.t.ia.o.c.c.u.a.Gm. .C.4bGe av4i .c ..h1. .2e.. r.1.iL2.a.a ...L. .C...a...a.. .C.r....ia.o...r..c..i..oa....c ..C..a..Ge .C.v4..ie.c .v.h.i .ce..hr1..i2eaE r.1iL.a. .a.. .C..1a..7r.. i.o.I.sc..aa..b .C.e..el.a.v. .iC.c..ah...pe.E.er.1.ita Eo.1...... 1.. ..7.... .1..I.7.s... .a...I..bs....ae....bl..a..e.. ..Cl..a....a. .C..p....ae...pt.E.oe..1..t. ..o...... 1..B7.. .2.I.s ..a. .b..2e..2l.a. .. LC..a.a.g.p..o..e....a.t. o.A....v....e....nB.....t2..u.B. .r.2a. . s..2... .2....2 ....L2....a. ...Lg.....ao....g.a....o ..A..a..v.. ..Ae.....nv....e.t..u.nB.r.t2.au.. s.r..a.. ..s...2...G2... 4.L. ..a..g..o..a.. .A...v..e..n..t.u.....r...a..s...... G.....4..G. ..4...... G4

5 Parque Lage ...... 5.. ..P5.. a..Pr..qa..u.r.qe..u. L..e.a. .Lg..ae..g....e...... 5.E. .1.P. .a.. .r.q..1u.3..e .. L.L.a..a..g..g...oe..o...n...... E...... 1.... E.....1...... 1.. .3...... 1..L3....a. ...L.g....ao.....go....on....o...... n...... E.....1...... 1..D3... 4.L.. .a..g ...o..1..o.8..n. ..O...... S.....o....l...... D.....4...D.. ...4...... 1.. .8..... 1...O.8...... S..O....o. ..S.l....o....l...... D.....4...... 1..8C.. .2.O. .. .S..o..l...... C.....2..C. ..2...... C2

6 Planetário...... 6.. ..P6.. l.a.P.n.l.a.e..nt.á.e.r.t.iá.o.r....i.o...... 6A.. .5.P. .l.a...n..e..t..á....r...i.o...... A.....5..A. ..5...... A5

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Accessible Rio de Janeiro

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Emily Rose Yates, Regis St Louis Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 3

What ‘Accessible’ Means Need to Know ���������������� 12 Entertainment �������������22 & What to Expect in Rio �� 3 An Accessible Shopping ����������������������25 Welcome to Weekend in Rio ���������������14 Sports & Activities �����27 Rio de Janeiro ������������������ 4 Eating ��������������������������� 16 Sports Venues ������������ 30 Rio de Janeiro’s Top 7 ����� 6 Drinking & Nightlife ��� 19

Explore Rio de Janeiro 34

Ipanema & Leblon ���������38 Botafogo, Humaitá & Santa Teresa & Urca ��������������������������������68 Lapa �������������������������������� 97 Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa ����������50 Flamengo & Around ������ 77 Barra da Tijuca & Western Rio ����������������� 105 Copacabana & Leme ����58 Centro & Praça Mauá ��������������������86 Sleeping ������������������� 112

Survival Guide 119

Transportation ������������120 Language ����������������������131 Directory A–Z �������������� 125 Index ����������������������������� 136

Rio de Janeiro Maps 140 What ‘Accessible’ Means & What to Expect in Rio

For more than 40 years, Lonely Planet has guidelines. However, this may change as the published guidebooks to both inspire and Games draw near and more venues attempt assist travelers. The cornerstone of Lonely to become more accessible. Planet’s reputation has always been, ‘We The term ‘accessible’ is a complex one. know because we go.’ Our intrepid authors What is accessible for some might be dif- visit every establishment included in our ficult for others. We have included a range books and give their unbiased, first-hand of sights, activities and venues in this book reviews based on personal experience. that can be enjoyed by those in wheelchairs, True to form, Accessible Rio de Janeiro but we have also tried to include advice for is based on our Rio de Janeiro guide, which those with a vision or hearing impairment. was comprehensively updated this year. We have included some places and walking Accessible Rio de Janeiro was researched on tours that are not suited to wheelchair-users, the ground by wheelchair-user Emily Rose but may still be suitable for people with Yates. However, venues change, close down other disabilities. As everybody’s needs and or may now be different to how they were levels of ability are different, not every venue when this guide was written. Indeed, some will suit every reader. We encourage you to venues were not open at the time of research contact businesses and venues directly to (or were not accessible to our author) and, as discuss your individual needs. such, have not been verified for accessibility To share your experiences of travel with for this edition. Reviews of places that do a disability, ask questions or get advice, or not include accessibility information in this simply keep abreast of developments in ac- guide have not been assessed for accessibil- cessible travel: ity. Call or email these places before visiting ¨¨ Visit our Travellers with Disabilities branch them to discuss any accessibility issues. of the Thorn Tree travel forum (https://www. While we believe that the information we lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/travellers- are presenting is both accurate and useful, with-disabilities) we urge you to remember that Brazil is still ¨¨Join our Travel for All Google+ a developing country. Although Brazil does community (https://plus.google.com/u/0/ have a building code (issued by the Brazil- communities/114049628154087345562) ian Technical Standards Association) that includes standards for disabled access, we ¨¨Follow our Accessible Travel Pinterest board found that there are a number of private (https://au.pinterest.com/lonelyplanet/ businesses and public buildings that don’t accessible-travel/). appear to conform to the code. In particular, we found that there are very few accom- For the latest news and stories on accessible modations made for the deaf and hearing- travel, follow Lonely Planet’s Accessible impaired. There are also reports that some Travel Manager Martin Heng on Twitter: of the Olympic venues may not fully conform @Martin_Heng. with the official building code or with the Rio 2016 Accessibility Technical Guidelines, according to audits performed by Nucleo Lonely Planet is not responsible for any loss or Pró-Acesso at the Federal University of Rio damage suffered in connection with your use of de Janeiro, which helped to draw up the Accessible Rio de Janeiro. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Rio de Janeiro Golden beaches and lush mountains, samba-fueled nightlife and spectacular football matches: welcome to the Cidade Maravilhosa.

Tropical Landscapes The Rhythms of Rio Looking out from the 710m peak of Cor- Music is the lifeblood of Rio, with a covado, you will see why Rio is called the soundtrack comprising rock, old-school Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). bossa nova, hip-hop, funk and Brazil’s many Lushly forested mountains fringe the city, regional styles. Above all there’s samba, shimmering beaches trace the shoreline and a rapid-fire style of music with African a string of tiny islands lie scattered along influences and an infectious beat that is the seafront. Far from being mere cinematic synonymous with Rio. You can hear it all backdrop, this seaside beauty hosts out- over town, but the soul of samba resides standing outdoor adventures: hiking in the in Lapa, an edgy red-light district that’s Tijuca rainforest, cycling alongside the lake home to dozens of live-music halls and an and beaches, sailing across Baía de Guana- enormous weekend street party. Samba is bara, and surfing, rock climbing and hang also ubiqitous during Carnaval, and it’s the gliding amid one of the world’s most stun- backing music to street parties and all-night ning urban landscapes. parades.

Captivating Beaches Joie de Vivre Rio’s beaches have long seduced visitors. Rio knows how to party. Whether you call it Copacabana Beach became a symbol of joie de vivre or lust for life, cariocas have Rio during the 1940s, when international it in spades. Carnaval, and the buildup to it, starlets would jet in for the weekend. Hog- is the most obvious manifestation of this ging the spotlight these days is Ipanema celebratory spirit. But Rio has many other Beach, its fame and beauty unabated since occasions for revelry: celebrations after bossa nova stars Tom Jobim and Vinícius a big Flamengo (or Vasco, Fluminense or de Moraes introduced the world to its allure Botafogo) soccer match; weekend samba in the 1960s. For cariocas (residents of Rio), parties around town; baile (dance) funk the beach is Rio’s backyard – a playground parties in the favelas (slums, informal com- that’s free and open to all, offering endless munities); and boat parties on the bay – not enjoyment in the form of football, volleyball, to mention major events such as Réveillon surfing, snacking, drinking or simply relax- (New Year’s Eve) and, of course, the 2016 ing amid the passing parade of people. Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Cristo Redentor (p79) Top: (residents are of Rio) Cariocas . saudades By Emily Rose Yates, Writer Why I Love Rio de Janeiro de Rio I Love Why accessible city, that’s important! Forget awkwardness around assistance; the Brazilians might know how to party, but they also know how to help anyone who needs it. For more about our writer, see p160. and variety that strikes every visitor and never quite leaves. The longer I spend here, the less I want to leave, and it isn’t coincidental that the Brazilians have a word for missing something in a way that you just can’t describe: some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met and for a wheelchair user in a less-than- There is no other city quitelike Rio. With a different landscape around every corner – from beaches and mountains to sparkling waters and lush green forests – there’s a vibrancy

MARCHELLO74 / SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6

Rio de Janeiro’s Top 7 7 Ipanema Beach (p40) Copacabana Beach (p60) This enchanting beachfront attracts a The Copacabana experience is about 1 wide mix of cariocas (residents of Rio). 2 many things: exercising on the beach- Different crowds – surfers, volleyballers, front, playing in the waves or whiling away bohemians, muscle boys – congregate at the evening over cocktails and appetizers each section, or posto, including famous at a local kiosk. Regardless, you’ll notice posto 9 where Ipanema’s young and beauti- the seductive view: 4km of wide, curving ful frolic. The main activities are strolling, sands framed by Rio’s ubiquitous green people-watching and sunset-watching – peaks. Head uphill for even better views; best enjoyed from Arpoador, at Ipanema’s rooftop bars and forts at either end of the east end, which is accessible as the prom- beach make great settings for taking it all enade is paved. You can also eat and drink in. The ‘Praia Para Todos’ (Beaches for All) on the sand. Roaming vendors will come to event every weekend makes both Copaca- you, and barracas (beach stalls) set you up bana and Barra beaches accessible, with with chairs, umbrellas and caipirinhas. All sand-free pathways, beach wheelchairs you need do is show up. and accessible portable toilets. 1Ipanema & Leblon 1Copacabana & Leme KEVEN OSBORNE / FOX FOTOS / GETTY IMAGES © MARCHELLO74 / GETTY IMAGES © RODREIS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Rio de Janeiro’s Top 7

PLAN YOUR TRIP 8 9 LATITUDE STOCK - BILL BACHMANN / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Rio de Janei de Rio r o’s Top 7 Top o’s

Pão de Açúcar (p70) Cristo Redentor (p79) Some will tell you to arrive around The open-armed savior has stood atop 3 sunset for the best views from this ab- 4 his lofty perch (710m-high Corcova- surd confection of a mountain, but in truth, do), gazing over Rio, since 1931. The statue no matter what time you come, you’re of Christ the Redeemer is a remarkable unlikely to look at Rio (or your own possibly work of artistry, but most people don’t visit comparatively lackluster city) in the same to admire the art deco design. They come way again. From up here on Sugarloaf for the mesmerizing panorama, a combina- Mountain the landscape is one of pure tion of rainforest, beaches, islands, ocean, undulating green hills and golden beaches bay and verdant peaks, that surrounds this lapped by blue sea, with rows of skyscrap- unlikely metropolis. There are various ways ers sprouting along the shore. The ride up to reach the top, including a relatively ac- is good fun, too: fully accessible, all-glass cessible (but steep!) ascent on a cog train. aerial trams whisk you up to the top. The Escalators are the only way to see Christ in adventurous and able can rock climb their all his glory at the very top. Trained staff can way to the summit. provide assistance, and there are accessi- 1Botafogo & Urca ble viewing points at a lower level, too. 1 Flamengo & Around 10 Floresta da Tijuca (p108) Nightlife in Lapa (p103) New York has Central Park; Rio has The Arcos da Lapa form the gateway 5 the Floresta da Tijuca, a vast swath 6 to Rio’s most animated nightlife. of rainforest with hiking trails, sparkling Pass through the arches of the 64m-high waterfalls and abundant greenery that aqueduct and stroll the packed, bar-lined

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN makes other parks look like playgrounds. streets while the rhythms of samba spill There are a number of fine walks and out from 19th-century facades. While easier trails you can take, as well as some you’ll encounter drinks (from curbside climbs up rocky 900m peaks, where re- beer and caipirinha vendors) and music warding views await. If you prefer flying (from impromptu jam sessions) all around, to walking, take a hang-gliding flight from venture inside an old-school dance hall Pedra Bonita inside the Tijuca boundaries to see the city at its most dynamic. From for a magnificent (if somewhat terrifying) the band on stage come the rhythms of Rio de Janei de Rio view over Rio’s wondrously green back- samba, some of the world’s most infec- yard. The flight is possible even for most tious beats. Grab a partner and hit the people with disabilities. dance floor! 2Barra da Tijuca & Western Rio 3Santa Teresa & Lapa r o’s Top 7 Top o’s INGO R Ö SLER / GETTY IMAGES © 11 GONZALO AZUMENDI / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Rio de Janei de Rio r o’s Top 7 Top o’s

JOS Lagoa Rodrigo de É EDUARDO NUCCI / GETTY IMAGES © Freitas (p53) ’Saltwater lagoon’ may 7 not be the first thing you think of when you hear the words ‘Rio de Janeiro’, but this picturesque body of water plays a key role in the city’s psyche. By day cariocas cycle, jog and stroll the 7km flat and accessible path that loops around it. By nightfall a different crowd arrives to eat and drink in the open-air kiosks scattered along the shore. In December Lagoa is home to a massive floating Christmas tree; its glittering lights and nightly displays are pure magic for kids and adults alike. 1Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 12

Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p119)

Currency Real (R$) Daily Costs Advance Planning Three months before Organize Language Budget: Less than your visa (if you need one) and Portuguese R$200 book accommodation. Most ho- Visas ¨¨Hostel bed: R$40–70 tels only have a few accessible rooms, so be quick! Many nationalities require them; ¨¨Sandwich and drink in a see p129. juice bar: R$15 Two weeks before Book guided tours and activities such as city ¨¨Coconut water on the beach: Money sightseeing, rainforest tours and R$5 ATMs widely available. Credit cards tandem gliding. Hotel staff can accepted in most midrange and Midrange: R$200 to discuss your access require- top-end hotels and restaurants. R$600 ments, advise on the most accommodating organizations Cell Phones ¨¨Standard double room in and chat to tour companies to Local SIM cards can be used in Copacabana: R$350 ensure the best experience. unlocked European and Austral- ¨¨Dinner for two: R$100–150 One week before Book a ian phones, and in US phones on ¨¨Guided tour: R$100–125 table at top restaurants. Check the GSM network. ¨¨Admission to a samba club: concerts and events on www. Time R$20–50 rioguiaoficial.com.br. Rio is three hours behind GMT. Daylight savings pushes the Top End: More than Useful Websites clocks one hour forward between R$600 Insider’s Guide to Rio (www. mid-October and mid-February. ¨¨Boutique hotel room: from ipanema.com) Tips and planning R$600 info, with sections on gay Rio. Tourist Information ¨ Dinner for two at top Riotur (www.rioguiaoficial.com. ¨ Lonely Planet (www.lonely ­ restaurants with drinks: R$350 br) has offices and kiosks for get- planet.com) Destination ting maps, transport info and tips ¨¨Rock climbing up Pão de information, travel forum and on attractions and events. Açúcar: R$375 bookings. Riotur (www.rioguiaoficial. com.br) Rio’s official tourism authority. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Rio Wheelchair (www.riopara Crime in Rio is always a concern, so be cautious: cadeirantes.blog.com) Blog by a ¨¨Don’t take valuables to the beach. Brazilian wheelchair user resid- ¨¨Avoid deserted parts of Centro on weekends. ing in Rio de Janeiro. Includes many reviews of accessible ¨¨Don’t wear expensive-looking accessories. venues. It’s in Portuguese so ¨¨Carry one credit card, a copy of your passport, and you may need to use Google enough cash for the day. Keep part of your daily cash Translate. in a bag and the rest concealed in your pockets. Leave the passport, extra cash and cards in your hotel safe. Rio Times (www.riotimesonline. com) English-language resource on current events. 13

WHEN TO GO Rio De Janeiro High season runs °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 20/350 from December to 15/300 30/86 March, when Rio is 10/250 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN festive, pricey and 20/68 8/200

hot. To beat the 10/50 6/150 crowds and higher 4/100 0/32 prices, visit from 2/50 May to September. -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N N Arriving in Rio de Getting Around Sleeping K to eed Janeiro ¨¨Metro The most convenient Rio’s most popular accom- way to get around. Trains run Aeroporto Antônio Carlos modations include high-rise from 5am to midnight Monday Jobim Most international flights beachfront hotels, small no through Saturday, and from guesthouses and stylish arrive at this airport (also called w Galeão) located 15km north of 7am to 11pm on Sundays and hostels. The more expensive the city center. From there, holidays. Single rides cost the accommodations, the Premium Auto Ônibus (www. R$3.70. All stations are fully more accessible they’re premiumautoonibus.com.br; accessible with well-trained, likely to be. R$15) operates buses about helpful staff. Tactile flooring Rates are fairly com- every 30 to 40 minutes to Fla- is available for the visually petitive (with prices slightly mengo, Copacabana, Ipanema, impaired, all signs are bilingual less than in the US). You’ll Leblon and other neighbor- and many stations are working pay a premium (double or hoods. It takes 75 minutes to to install hearing loops. triple the normal price) two hours depending on traffic. ¨¨Bus Buses are frequent and during major events, with cheap; destinations are listed minimum stays (four to If you’re a wheelchair user, a taxi above the windscreen. Fares on seven nights) usually re- is the best way to get to your buses cost around R$3. Buses quired. You can save money accommodations. Radio taxis are not recommended if you by renting an apartment. charge a set fare of R$130 to are a wheelchair user. Book at least two or Copacabana and Ipanema (45 three months in advance ¨¨Taxi Useful at night. Fares to 90 minutes). Less expensive during high season, es- start at R$5.20 plus R$2.05 metered yellow-and-blue pecially if you require an per kilometer. Rates are higher comum (common) taxis cost accessible room as these at night and on Sundays. Call between R$60 and R$90. A fleet are in short supply. It’s best Especial Coop Taxi for the of 50 wheelchair-accessible to call the hotel directly to wheelchair-accessible taxis taxis operated by Especial discuss your needs. Coop Taxi (%021-2585-5577, previously mentioned. 021-3295-9606) is available for ¨¨Bike Shared-bike scheme Useful Websites those who need to ride in their Bike Rio (p121) has numerous ¨ Booking.com (www. wheelchair. Book in advance as stations around town. You’ll ¨ booking.com) Best option they are in short supply. need a local cellphone (mobile) for hotels, with a reliable number to release the bikes at accessibility filter. each station. For much more on ¨¨Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) arrival, see p120 Rooms and apartments listed For much more on across Rio, with the option getting around, to contact each owner and see p121 discuss specific needs.

For much more on sleeping, see p112 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 14

An Accessible Weekend in Rio

Friday Saturday

Flamengo & Around (p77) Ipanema & Leblon (p38) M Starting off in Cosme Velho, take the M Try your hand at adapted surfing at cog train up Corcovado to admire Leblon Beach with AdaptSurf (p28), the view beneath the open-armed Cristo a Brazilian specialist in accessible and inclu- Redentor (there are escalators to take you sive surfing. There’s no feeling like catching right to the very top, and trained staff to those waves. offer assistance; see p79). Lunch Shopping Leblon (p48) has a Lunch Sirio Libaneza (p83) is loved by choice of accessible restaurants. locals. If it’s too crowded, get takeaway. Ipanema & Leblon (p38) Copacabana & Leme (p58) After a morning in the sun, it’s time In the afternoon, take a stroll along R for some retail therapy. Spend the R the mosaic promenade of Copaca- afternoon looking around the glamorous bana Beach (p60), stopping at local kiosks boutiques in Shopping Leblon (p48). for coconut water and the odd savory snack. Don’t forget the sunblock! Dinner Take a taxi to Aprazível (p101) in Santa Teresa. Dinner Head to the excellent Cobal do Humaita (p75). Santa Teresa & Lapa (p97) Enjoy a late night of samba and Gavea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa N caipirinhas. Start the evening by tak- (p50) ing in the street party around the Arcos How about a trip to the movies at da Lapa (p100) before making your way to N Shopping da Gavea (p56)? It has the excellently accessible Rio Scenarium gorgeous cinema screens, with most films in (p103), a beautiful antique-filled club. Either English with Portuguese subtitles. join samba-loving crowds on the dance floor or watch the evening unfold from an upper Centro & Praça Mauá (p86) balcony, where the food is pricey but divine. If cinema without English subtitles is N not accessible to you, go and see some incredible late-night exhibitions at Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil. (p88). 15 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN An A An

Sunday cc AND IF A CAIPIRINHA IS ALL e ssi Ipanema & Leblon (p38) YOU ARE LOOKING FOR... b

Get ready for a morning of creativ- You can find some of the best- l M e Wee ity, colors and serious haggling at tasting ones at Rio Scenarium (p103) Ipanema’s famous Sunday Hippie Fair and Windsor Atlantica (p115).

(p47). For a choice of flavors, nip to k Devassa (p45) – their strawberry i end Lunch Bar Astor (p45) is a fine place for version is a must-try – and for a

a hangover burger. drink with an unbeatable view, head n R to a cafe on Pão de Açúcar (p70). i o

Botafogo & Urca (p68) Spend the afternoon down in Urca. R Take the accessible cable-cars to the top of Pão de Açúcar (p70), from where Rio spreads before you in a stun- ning panorama. Afterwards, grab a drink and a snack at waterfront Bar Urca (p74) before heading to Praia Vermelha (p73) to watch live (and free) jazz with Sugarloaf

Dinner Head to Palaphita Kitch (p56) for contemporary food in a great setting. as the backdrop – just watch out for the odd sandy cobbled pathway.

Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa ALEX ROBINSON / GETTY IMAGES © (p50) There are creative cocktails­ and N serene views at the open-air lakeside bar at Palaphita Kitch (p56), and there’s also a great accessible bathroom. Why leave?

Hippie Fair market (p47) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16

Eating

Despite top-notch chefs, ethnically diverse cuisine and a rich bounty from farm, forest and sea, Rio hasn’t earned much of a culinary reputation abroad. Within Brazil, however, it’s a different story, with cariocas (residents of Rio) convinced that there’s no place quite like home for sitting down to a first-rate meal.

Amazonian berry and whipped up to a thick The Dining Scene consistency – it’s eaten with a spoon). Other unique flavors to try: cupuaçu Variety comes in many forms in Rio, which (Amazonian fruit), caju (fruit from the is unsurprising given the large immigrant cashew-nut tree), acerola (tropical cherry), population. Lebanese, Japanese, Spanish, carimbola (star fruit), graviola (custard ap- German, French and Italian cuisines are ple), fruta do conde (sugar apple) and cacau among the standouts, though there’s an (made from the creamy pulp of the cocoa equally broad selection of regional Brazilian pod; nothing like cocoa). More traditional restaurants. fruits include maracujá (passion fruit), Diners can sample rich shrimp-filled mo- manga (mango), goiaba (guava) and tomate queca (seafood stew cooked in coconut milk) de árbol (tamarillo). from Bahia or tender carne seca (jerked Juices are made from frozen pulp, with meat) covered in farofa (manioc flour), a added sugar. To order it without sugar, re- staple in Minas Gerais. Daring palates can quest ‘sem açúcar’. venture north into Amazonia, enjoying savo- Juice bars also serve snacks (on display in ry tacacá (manioc paste, lip-numbing leaves the counters), hot sandwiches such as misto of the vegetable jambu and dried shrimp) or quente (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) tambaqui (a large Amazonian fish) and other and other bites served up in a hurry. meaty fishes from the mighty Amazon. Cow- boys and the gaúcho from the south bring Per-Kilo Restaurants the city its churrascarias, Brazil’s famous all-you-can-eat barbecue restaurants, where At lunchtime, locals favor pay-by-weight res- crisply dressed waiters bring piping-hot spits taurants, which range from simple, working- of freshly roasted meats to your table. class affairs to sumptuous buffets lined with Wherever you end up, try to pace yourself. fresh salads, grilled meats, pastas, seafood Brazilian dishes are normally quite large – dishes and copious desserts. These are found and some dishes are meant for two. When in all across the city and are a great way to sam- doubt, ask the server to clarify. ple a wide variety of Brazilian dishes. Most places charge around R$50 to R$70 Juice Bars per kilogram, with a sizable plate of food costing about R$35 to R$50. Most cariocas start off their morning with a stop at the local juice bar, where they can Snacks choose from two or three dozen varieties of vitamin-filled elixirs, including the very Snack stands, juice bars and botecos (small popular açaí (healthful juice made from an open-air bars) serve up a wide variety of deli- cious, if utterly unhealthy, salgados (snacks). 17 After a day at the beach, they go quite nice- ly with a few rounds of chope (draft beer). NEED TO KNOW A few top picks: Price Ranges Pão de queijo Bite-sized cheese-filled rolls. The price symbols in reviews indicate the Esfiha Triangular pastry filled with meat and cost of a main course. spices, spinach or other fillings. TRIP YOUR PLAN $ less than R$30 Kibe Deep-fried Middle Eastern snack with a thin $$ R$30–75 whole-wheat crust and a filling of ground beef and spices. $$$ more than R$75 Bolinho de bacalhau Deep-fried codfish balls. Opening Hours Coxinha Pear-shaped cornmeal balls filled with Most restaurants open from noon to 3pm shredded chicken. and 6pm to 11pm. On Sundays many res- EATING taurants open only for lunch, if at all. Juice Pastel de carne/camarão/queijo Square of bars open around 7am or 8am and close deep-fried dough filled with meat, shrimp or at midnight or later. cheese. Tipping Tapioca A crepe made from manioc flour, filled with chicken, cheese, fruit preserves and more. A 10% tip is usually included in restaurant Found primarily at food markets. bills. When it isn’t included, it’s customary to leave 10%.

Food Markets Reservations The feiras (produce markets) that pop up in Most restaurants accept reservations for different locations throughout the week are both lunch and dinner, so call ahead to the best places to shop for juicy mangoes, avoid a wait. Reservations are essential at papayas, pineapples and other fruits. For an high-end restaurants, and the answering authentic slice of homegrown carioca com- host will usually speak English. merce, nothing beats wandering through a market and taking in the action. The best Lunch Specials time to go is in the morning (from 9am to Some restaurants serve multicourse lunch noon). The feiras end by 2pm or 3pm. specials, which often provide decent value In addition to the markets we list, stop in for money. Prices hover around R$30, but at Ipanema’s Hippie Fair (p47) on Sundays can go upwards of R$50 for more elabo- for delectable Bahian fare. rate offerings. Cobal do Humaitá (p75) The city’s largest farm- ers market sells plenty of veggies and fruit; it also Dress Code and Etiquette has cafes and restaurants, and a huge open-air Cariocas (residents of Rio) are quite pavilion for alfresco dining. casual when it comes to dress, and din- ing out is no exception. Even at the nicest Cobal do Leblon (p46) Fruit stalls, as well as places, a pair of smart jeans and a collared indoor-outdoor restaurants and bars. shirt or blouse will do just fine. Brazilians Copacabana (p58) Markets are held Wednesdays can be fastidious when it comes to eating. on Praça Edmundo Bittencourt; Thursdays on Rua Use a knife and fork when eating pizza. Ministro Viveiros de Castro and Rua Ronald de In fact, never touch your food with bare Carvalho; Saturdays on Rua General Azevedo Pi- hands: always use a napkin when eating mentel; and Sundays on Praça Serzedelo Correia. sandwiches, bar snacks etc. Gávea (p50) Friday market on Praça Santos Dumont. Leblon (p38) Thursdays on Rua General Urquiza. Glória (p77) Sunday market on Av Augusto Severo. Leme (p58) Monday market on Gustavo Sampaio. Ipanema (p38) Markets are held Mondays on Rua Santa Teresa (p97) Fridays on Rua Felicio dos Henrique Dumont, Tuesdays on Praça General Santos. Osório and Fridays on Praça NS da Paz. Urca (p68) Sundays on Praça Tenente Gil Jardim Botânico (p50) Saturday market on Rua Guilherme. Frei Leandro. 18

ACCESSIBILITY Levels of accessibility depend on the neighborhood you are in. In Zona Sul, and especially around Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, many restaurants have step-free seating outside, a medium-gradient ramp leading inside and relatively accessible toilets (or are

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN near a hotel with excellent bathrooms). Further north, accessible eateries are notice- ably more difficult to find, with cobbled pavements and high-rise buildings with narrow passageways providing additional obstacles. If you have a visual or hearing impairment, the likelihood of finding any equipment within cafes and restaurants that will aid your experience is extremely slim. Many of the larger restaurants have bilingual menus and English-speaking staff.

¨¨ EATING Feijoada Botafogo, Humaitá & Urca (p73) Creative, As distinctively carioca as Pão de Açúcar high-end eateries along Rua Conde de Irajá; (Sugarloaf Mountain) or Cristo Redentor casual open-air options along Rua Nelson (Christ the Redeemer), the feijoada comple- Mandela. ta is a dish that constitutes an entire meal, ¨¨Flamengo & Around (p83) Small selection and often begins with a caipirinha aperitif. of midrange and downmarket options and a few A properly prepared feijoada consists well-concealed surprises (Lebanese, Japanese of black beans slowly cooked with a great and Rio’s best pizzas). variety of meat – including dried tongue ¨¨Centro & Praça Mauá (p92) Atmospheric and pork offcuts – seasoned with salt, gar- lunch options on cobblestone streets near Praça lic, onion and oil. The stew is accompanied XV, but few dinner options. by white rice and finely shredded kale, then ¨¨ Small but tossed with croutons, fried farofa (manioc Santa Teresa & Lapa (p101) enticing collection of eateries, with the densest flour) and pieces of orange. concentration around Largo do Guimarães. Feijoada has its origins in Portuguese cooking, which uses a large variety of meats and vegetables; fried farofa (inherited from Lonely Planet’s Top Choices the indigenous inhabitants) and kale are also Portuguese favorites. The African influ- Don Pascual (p109) Simply one of the most beau- ence comes with the spice and the tradition tiful restaurants in Rio. Beautiful and affordable of using pork offcuts, which were the only food with a treehouse and fairy-tale atmosphere part of the pig given to slaves. that cannot be matched. Confeitaria Colombo (p92) A display of pastries Eating by Neighborhood that will make your jaw drop in this grand and spacious cafe. ¨¨Ipanema & Leblon Best assortment of (p42) Aprazível (p101) Beautiful setting with magical dining from inexpensive juice bars and per-kilo views over the city. places to award-winning restaurants. Sirio Libaneza (p83) A small and simple but ¨¨Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa (p54) oh-so-delicious joint for fans of Middle Eastern Charming upscale neighborhood options, plus cuisine. dining with views at open-air lakeside kiosks. ¨¨Copacabana & Leme (p61) Humble Cobal do Humaita (p75) If you’re not sure what rotisseries, ethnic fare and beachfront kiosks, you want, but know it needs to be easy and plus hidden gems on the side streets. accessible, this place has plenty of choice and a cracking atmosphere, too. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 19 DAVID BANK / GETTY IMAGES ©

A bar in Rio de Janeiro Drinking & Nightlife Any night of the week you’ll find plenty of ways to experience Rio’s electrifying nightlife: open-air bars by the lake; festive outdoor drinking spots on the colonial streets of Centro; beachfront kiosks; stylish lounges and nightclubs; and warm and welcoming botecos (small open-air bars) that are scattered all across the city. 20 in Veja magazine, which comes out each NEED TO KNOW Sunday. Rio Show, the entertainment in- sert that comes in the Friday edition of O Opening Hours Globo, also has extensive listings Bars From 6pm to 2am Monday to Friday, from noon on Saturday and Sunday. Most Botecos & Brewhouses PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN places stay open later (typically till 4am) For an insight into Rio’s drinking culture, on Friday and Saturday nights. familiarize yourself with one of the great Nightclubs From 11pm to 5am Thursday sociocultural icons of the city: the boteco. to Saturday. These casual, open-sided bars are scattered all over town, and draw in a broad cross- How Much? section of society. You’ll find young and Drink prices A draft beer will set you old, upper class and working class, men

DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE back roughly between R$6 and R$10, with and women, black and white mixing over cocktails R$14 to R$22 and up to R$30 at ice-cold chope (draft beer) or caipirinhas pricier lounges. Most bars tack on a 10% (cocktails made from lime, sugar and service charge. sugarcane alcohol), flirting and swapping Club admission Prices vary; women the latest gossip as bow-tied waiters move typically pay less than men. Fridays and deftly among the crowd. Saturdays are the most expensive nights. Just as most cariocas (residents of Rio) On average, club admission on a weekend have a favorite team, nearly every local night is around R$50 for men and R$30 also has a favorite boteco to call their own. for women. These range from hole-in-the-wall joints where canned beer is handed out to drink- Getting In ers slouched over plastic tables to classic, ¨¨The dress code at clubs isn’t strict in wood-paneled bar rooms with murals on Rio. Neat shorts and sneakers are fine, the walls, expertly mixed drinks and a his- though flip-flops and swimsuits are a tory dating back several generations. Wher- no-no. ever you go in the city, you’ll find food is an important part of the experience, as cari- ¨¨Groups of single men will have a ocas rate bars not just on the drinks and harder time getting in. Try to join up with the vibe but on the menu as well. a few females. Lately the beer scene has improved ¨¨Go before midnight to beat the immensely thanks to the rise of the craft crowds. brewing industry across Brazil. New bars featuring top microbrews from within the state and beyond have opened all across Rio, and cariocas are discovering their beer nerd within. The Scene Accessible bathrooms are hard to find, As in most places in the world, there are a but chatting outside without the worry of few different subcultures (models and mod- finding step-free access or a cramped table elizers, surfers, hipsters and hippies) within will come as a pleasant surprise. the nightlife circuit, though there’s plenty of crossover between groups. The well-heeled crowd from the Zona Sul tends to favor CONSUMPTION CARD high-end nightclubs in Gávea and Barra, while an alternative crowd heads to the At many clubs in Rio you’ll receive a clubs in Botafogo. Lapa’s mix of bars and control card when you enter. Rather dance halls attracts a greater diversity of than paying for individual drinks, your people from all backgrounds who have little card will be marked each time you order. in common aside from a love of samba. At the end of the night, you’ll head to the Venues come and go – and the best cashier and pay for your food and drinks, parties are often one-off events in unique plus the admission charge. Don’t lose spots – so it helps if you can get the latest the card – if you do, you’ll be hit with a from a local source. If you can read a bit hefty fee (upwards of R$200). of Portuguese, pick up the Veja Rio insert 21

ACCESSIBILITY When it comes to Rio’s nightlife, companionship equals comfort. Many of the bars in Rio have excellent outdoor (and largely step-free) seating options, and botecos, in particular, are great if you’re happy to chill out on street corners without having to worry about table bookings or accessible bathrooms. But it’s always great to have someone with you, es- PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN pecially if you are attempting the cobbles and high curbs of Lapa, for instance. The more authentic bars you go to, the less English will be spoken. Unfortunately, for those with sensory impairments, very little equipment will be available (although staff are always eager to help where they can). Some hotel rooftop bars have excellent jazz nights, not to mention accessible bathrooms and trained staff at the ready. Favela nightlife may prove tough, although accessible bars do exist behind the beautiful Leme. Just make sure that, wherever you go, you’ve got money for an easy cab ride home. DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE

Nightclubs Drinking & Nightlife by Rio has some great places to shake your Neighborhood bunda (booty). DJs pull from the latest house, drum ‘n’ bass and hip-hop favorites, ¨¨Ipanema & Leblon (p45) Lots of botecos, a as well as uniquely Brazilian combinations handful of lounges and nightclubs. such as electro-samba and bossa-jazz. In ¨¨Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa (p55) addition to local DJs, Rio attracts a handful Romantic lakeside drinking spots. of vinyl gurus from São Paulo, New York and London to spin at bigger affairs. Flyers ¨¨Copacabana & Leme (p66) Beach kiosks, advertising dance parties can be found in botecos, nightclubs and bars with views in the boutiques in Ipanema and Leblon. You’ll favela above Leme. save money by getting on the guest list – ¨¨Botafogo, Humaitá & Urca (p74) Several this usually means adding your name on popular spots in Urca; great botecos, and the club’s event-listing page on Facebook. creative bars and drinking dens in Botafogo. ¨¨Centro (p95) Atmospheric after-work drinking LGBT Rio spots on pedestrianized streets. Rio has been a major destination for gay ¨¨ (p102) Old-fashioned travelers since the 1950s. Back then the Santa Teresa & Lapa bars and bohemian haunts in Santa; riotous action was near the Copacabana Palace, street parties and samba clubs in Lapa. which is still popular with a slightly older crowd (look for the rainbow-hued flag). Today, however, the party has mostly moved Lonely Planet’s Top Choices on, with the focal point of the LGBT (les- bian, gay, bisexual and transgender) scene, Palaphita Kitch (p56) Amazonian-tinged cock- especially for visitors, being in Ipanema. tails and serene lakeside views. The gay beach at the end of Rua Farme de Amoedo (again, look for the rainbow flag) Rio Scenarium (p103) With live samba and some is the stomping ground of some of Rio’s of the yummiest caipirinhas going, this really is an buffest men, sometimes known as ‘barbies’ accessible hot-spot in Lapa. in carioca slang. The bars and cafes of Bar Astor (p45) For a good daytime drink after a nearby streets – Rua Teixeira de Melo and local market haggle, Bar Astor is the place to be. Rua Farme – attract a mixed crowd and are a good spot to explore if you’re not quite Balada Mix (p110) A nice chilled-out open space ready to jump into the beach scene. to sit and soak up the Barra scene. Delirium, next Rio also hosts an enormously popular door, has a fantastic range of beers but is less Gay Pride Rio festival. For more info on accessible. the gay scene in Rio, including recom- Mud Bug (p66) A real hit with Copacabana’s mendations on nightclubs, bars, cafes and locals, this sports bar boasts a great atmosphere guesthouses, visit Rio Gay Guide (www. and some sing-a-long rock tunes. riogayguide.com). Fasano (p115) With rooftop views like nowhere else in Rio, you just have to have a (rather expen- sive) drink by the pool one evening. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22 RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

Samba School parade at Carnaval

Entertainment

Rio has a celebrated music scene, with enchanting settings to catch live performances, from cutting-edge concert halls to small and intimate neighborhood venues. Dance, theater, classical concerts and opera also have their small but loyal local following, while cinema is an even bigger deal – Rio is one of the leading film centers in Latin America.

mansions, outdoor parks overlooking the city, Live Music old-school bars, crumbling buildings on the edge of town and hypermodern lounges fac- In addition to samba, Rio is a showcase for ing the ocean are all part of the mix. Rio has jazz, bossa nova, Música Popular Brasileira a few large concert halls that attract Brazilian (MPB), rock, hip-hop and fusions of these stars such as Gilberto Gil and Milton Nasci- styles. Brazil’s many regional styles – forró mento, as well as well-known international (traditional Brazilian music from the North- bands visiting Rio on world tours. east), chorinho (romantic, intimate samba) Major music festivals include the Rio and pagode (relaxed and rhythmic samba) – Music Conference (www.riomusicconference. are also a part of the music scene. com.br), held in the Marina da Glória. In ad- Venues range from modern concert halls dition to established venues, during the sum- seating thousands to intimate samba clubs mer months concerts sometimes take place in edgy neighborhoods. Antiquated colonial 23 on the beaches of Copacabana, Botafogo, Ipanema and Barra da Tijuca. NEED TO KNOW Dance Tickets & Reservations Rio has produced a number of successful Tickets for Fun (http://premier.tickets dance troupes, including the contemporary forfun.com.br) Sells tickets to big shows PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Companhia de Dança Deborah Colker, at Citibank Hall and Arena HSBC, both in which spends much of its time touring Barra da Tijuca. Also sells through various abroad. One homegrown talent you might stores in Rio including Lojas Saraiva, in Rio catch in town is the Cia de Dança Dani Sul Shopping (p76). Lima, an avant-garde troupe that weaves Ingresso.com (www.ingresso.com.br) provocative pieces together through dance Sells tickets to various venues, includ- and aerial gymnastics. Also keep an eye out ing Theatro Municipal, Sala Cecília and for the Lapa-based Intrépida Trupe, whose Espaço Tom Jobim. Purchasing online or ENTERTAINMENT talented acrobat-dancers bring surreal over the phone requires Portuguese, or works to the stage. you can buy from a distributor such as There is no space dedicated solely to Lojas Americanas (Visconde de Pirajá 142, dance; performances can take place at Ipanema). many venues around the city. Rio’s biggest dance festival, Festival Pan- Listings orama de Dança (www.panoramafestival. Rio Guia Oficial (www.rioguiaoficial.com. com), is held in November. For classical br) The city’s tourism authority maintains dance, try to see a production by the Ballet up-to-date listings of major events. do Theatro Municipal, which puts on highly Time Out (www.timeout.com.br/rio-de- professional performances at Rio’s most janeiro) Maintains a weekly calendar of venerable theater. key concerts and events in Portuguese. Theater Rio Show (http://rioshow.oglobo.globo. Brazil has a long history of theater. Liter- com) Published inside the Friday edition of ary greats from the 19th century, including O Globo newspaper; has extensive listings the highly imaginative carioca (resident in Portuguese. of Rio) Joaquim Machado de Assis, gave Veja (http://veja.abril.com.br) The Rio vision to the stage. Talents from the 20th insert included with this magazine, which century, such as the great Nelson Rodrigues comes out on Sundays, is a good (but and more recently Gerald Thomas, have Portuguese only) source of info. kept the flame alive, and you may be able to catch some of their work on Rio’s stages. There are more than two dozen theaters Cinema in town. Unfortunately, if you don’t speak There’s plenty of variety at Rio’s many Portuguese, you won’t get a lot out of an cinemas. The market here is remarkably evening at the theater. open to foreign and independent films, documentaries and avant-garde cinema. Classical Music This isn’t to say that mainstream Holly- In the classical-music scene, Rio has several wood films are in short supply. The latest symphony orchestras, and irregular appear- American blockbusters get ample airtime at ances are made by chamber groups and movie megaplexes, while cultural centers, soloists. The best new venue is Barra da museums and old one-screen theaters offer Tijuca’s excellent Cidade das Artes (p110), a more diverse repertoire. Films are shown where the Brazilian Symphony Orchestra in the original language with Portuguese plays. You might also attend a performance subtitles. On weekends, popular shows of- at the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil ten sell out, so buy your ticket early. Prices (p88), which is extremely accessible and range from R$20 to R$34 per ticket, with hosts orchestral works periodically. cheaper matinee prices from Monday to The biggest classical-music festival Thursday and the highest prices (and long- is Música no Museu, held in museums, est lines) from Friday to Sunday. churches and cultural centers around town. The Rio film fest is one of the biggest in Latin America. More than 400 films 24 restaurant. Pedra do Sal, on the other hand, ACCESSIBILITY consists of a communal ‘drinking rock’, with parties taking off on the streets around. Happily, Rio’s cinemas, especially the Accessible bathrooms may be difficult to ones based in grand and shiny shopping find once out on the street, and be aware of centers, are extremely accessible. With uneven pavements once in the dark. There

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN wheelchair spaces often at both the are also accessible samba classes and drum- front and back of the auditoriums and ming workshops, aimed solely at disabled screenings with audio description and locals (and tourists) who want be seen – subtitles (although these are only in Por- and remembered! Get in touch with Paul tuguese), the movies are a good option Davies at Embaixadores da Alegria (p28) on an exhaustingly hot day, or when you and ask to join in. need a break from all the caipirinhas! The CCBB (p88) and Cidade das Artes ENTERTAINMENT (p110) are also excellently inclusive and Entertainment by Neighborhood really know how to put on a show. Unfortunately, many of Rio’s jazz bars ¨¨Ipanema & Leblon (p46) A handful of are cramped, accessed via stairs and theaters, cinemas and live-music venues. have few provisions for the disabled. A ¨ big show is really the only way to go if ¨Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa (p50) Live- you’re looking for inclusive entertain- music spots at lakeside kiosks. ment in Rio. ¨¨Flamengo & Around (p85) Small concert halls in arts spaces. representing 60 countries show at theaters ¨¨Centro & Praça Mauá (p95) Large selection across Rio, and there are occasional of concert halls and theaters. screenings at the Marina da Glória and ¨¨Santa Teresa & Lapa (103) Many live-music other open-air spots around town. In past venues in Lapa. years the two-week festival has attracted ¨¨Barra da Tijuca & Western Rio (p110) Home more than 300,000 attendees. It runs from to megasized concert halls. the last week of September to the first week of October. Although there’s a wide variety of international fare screened here, the Lonely Planet’s Top Choices festival often sets the stage for the success of Brazilian films aimed at wide release. For Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (p88) A truly more info, visit www.festivaldorio.com.br. accessible venue, showcasing wonderfully engag- ing exhibitions and intimate live shows. Samba Cidade das Artes (p110) Massive R$500 million Two excellent options for anyone wanting home to the Brazilian Symphony Orchestra. a truly accessible samba experience, both inside and outside, are Rio Scenarium Praia Vermelha (p73) Go here late on a Sunday (p103) and Pedra do Sal (p95). The two are afternoon to witness live local jazz with cheap pretty different, with the former being a caipirinhas and a Sugarloaf sunset. multifloor grand samba building, with an- tiques galore and a beautiful (if overpriced) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 MAREMAGNUM /GETTY IMAGES ©

Shoppers fill a street in Rio

Shopping

Unsurprisingly, beach and casual wear are a big part of the shopping scene in Rio. Less well known is the great variety of stores selling antiques, custom-made handicrafts, wine and spirits, handmade jewelry, records and CDs, coffee-table books and one-of-a-kind goods found only in Rio. 26 Cachaça Buy quality cachaça (high-proof sugar- NEED TO KNOW cane alcohol) from Minas from around R$35. Opening Hours Swimwear Flaunt your new tan in a tiny sunga (Speedo) or fio dental (string bikini). Ipanema, Stores 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, to along Rua Visconde de Pirajá, is the place to look. 1pm Saturday PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN If the massive Northeastern Malls 10am to 10pm Monday to Saturday, Maracatu drums 3pm to 10pm Sunday instrument won’t fit on your coffee table, consider the smaller ukelele-like cavaquinho. Consumer Taxes Paintings Artists showcase their works at the Most stores list their prices with the tax Sunday Hippie Fair (p47). already included, so what you see on the Soccer jerseys Score a jersey for one of Rio’s price tag is the total price you’ll pay for teams. SHOPPING the goods. Folk art Tap into Brazil’s handicraft traditions at Language stores scattered about town. Many sales assistants in high-end shops speak English. Shopping by Neighborhood Bargaining A little bargaining is expected when mak- ¨¨Ipanema & Leblon (p47) Loads of boutiques; ing purchases at markets, but keep in high prices. mind that sellers generally don’t over- ¨¨Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa (p56) inflate their prices and so aren’t willing to Several small-scale but atmospheric shopping haggle very much. streets. ¨¨Copacabana & Leme (p67) Loads of stores, a few markets and tourist fare. ¨¨Centro & Praça Mauá (p97) Wine shops, Rio’s Markets bookstores and downmarket clothing shops; Rio’s many markets are ideal places for Medina-like browsing in the pedestrian streets exploring the subcultures beneath the of Saara. city’s surface, whether that means you’re ¨¨Santa Teresa & Lapa (p104) A few brushing elbows with antique lovers, recent handicrafts shops and galleries near Largo do migrants from the Northeast or youthful Guimarães. flocks of fashionistas from the Zona Sul. Some markets, such as the monthly Feira do Rio Antigo, are as much about food and ACCESSIBILITY music as they are about shopping. While haggling in markets is fun and the A few top markets: produce more interesting than in shop- Hippie Fair (p47) ping centers, getting around them is often not the easiest thing to do. If mar- Av Atlântica Fair (Map p146; on the median along kets are a must, though, the Hippie Fair Av Atlântica near Rua Djalma Ulrich, Copacabana; in Ipanema is truly delightful and really h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat) quite accessible if you can cope with the Feira do Rio Antigo (Map p154; Rio Antiques Fair; unevenly tiled floor. Rua do Lavradio, Lapa; h10am-6pm 1st Sat of As in most cities, big and brash shop- month) ping centers are less exciting, but they come with smooth floors, large elevators Praça Santos Dumont Antique Fair (Map p148; to all levels, accessible bathrooms and Praça Santos Dumont, Gavea; h9am-6pm Sun) Braille buttons/visual strips – at least Rio Souvenirs most of the time. Hearing loops are, well, almost unheard of in Rio, but should you Music Expand your CD collection with local fa- be lucky enough to find one, it’s likely to vorites such as singers Maria Rita, Diogo Nogueira be in Rio Sul (p76), Shopping da Gavea or Mart’nália. (p56) or Shopping Leblon (p48). ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 27 STUART DEE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Hang gliding over São Conrado (p28) Sports & Activities

Tropical rainforest, towering peaks and sparkling beaches set the stage for a wide range of adventures in this outdoors-loving city. Hiking, rock climbing, hang gliding, surfing and cycling are just a few ways to spend a sun-drenched afternoon. For those with reduced mobility, there are many adapted activities and adventures in this marvelous city. Rio is also a great place to watch sport; nothing quite compares to seeing the spectacle of a football match at hallowed Maracanã, or athletes competing in the Games.

or quadricycles (around R$30 per hour). A Trails to Wander popular option is to take the seaside path from Leme to Barra da Tijuca. You can also Splendid views and the sounds of the ever- wander along paths from Copacabana up to present ocean are just two features of the Parque do Flamengo. Sunday is the best day many good strolling paths of the Zona Sul. to go, as the road is closed to traffic but open Parque do Flamengo (p81) has plenty of paths to the city’s many outdoor enthusiasts. stretching between the city and bay. Further The short Pista Cláudio Coutinho (p72), south Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (p53) has a between the mountains and the sea at Praia 7.2km track for cyclists, joggers and inline Vermelha in Urca, is closed to bikes but open skaters – it’s great for a wheelchair workout, to walkers and joggers. It’s open from 7am too! At the lakeside Parque dos Patins you to 6pm daily, and is steep and cobbled, but can rent bicycles (R$15 per hour), tricycles not impossible for a fit manual wheelchair 28 can learn to surf from scratch – in a manner that NEED TO KNOW suits your ability. Beach chairs and sand-ramps will aid you down to the water, while staff teach Football at Maracanã you according to your strengths and impairment. Getting to Maracanã You can take the Nothing feels as good as catching your first wave metro to (the very accessible) Maracanã and jetting back to the beach, surrounded by PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN station and buy tickets at the gate. applause. Game days Games take place year-round Praia Para Todos (Map p146; www.praiapara on Saturdays or Sundays, and less fre- todos.com.br) Want to experience volleyball, quently on Wednesdays or Thursdays. barbecues and parties on the beach while getting Information For results, schedules and involved with a close-knit disability campaigning league tables visit www.sambafoot.com/ community? Then Praia Paras Todos (Beaches for en/. All) may just be where you should be spending SPORTS &ACTIVITIES your weekends. Surf Rio Surf conditions Find detailed information Accessible Carnaval on all the breaks around Rio at www.wan Embaixadores da Alegria (%021-98050- nasurf.com. If you can read Portuguese, 9911; https://www.facebook.com/Embaixadores check out www.riosurfpage.com.br. daalegria/) Rio is famous for its colorful and crazy Boards For boards and other gear, visit Carnaval, but disability had gone unnoticed in the Galeria River (Map p146; Francisco Otaviano proceedings for years. That is, until Paul Davies 67, Arpoador; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) or Spirit and his Embaixadores da Alegria came along, of- Surfboards (Map p146; Galeria River, Fran- fering drum workshops, costume-making sessions cisco Otaviano 67; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). and the odd Carnaval prep party to anyone willing You can also rent boards on the beach and to lend a hand and some excitement. Search for from some hostels. them on Facebook and witness the madness for Classes Beginners who want to learn to yourself. surf can take classes through informal es- colinhas (schools) off Ipanema Beach and Hang Gliding off Barra. Adaptsurf can also teach those If you weigh less than 100kg (about 220lb) with additional requirements (equipment and have a spare R$500 to spend, you can provided). hang glide off 510m Pedra Bonita – one of the giant granite slabs that tower above Rio – onto Pepino Beach in São Conrado. user and/or one with a willing companion. Flights last about seven to 10 minutes, and Power wheelchair users should have no no experience is necessary. Guest riders are problem. secured in a kind of pouch attached to the hang glider. The winds are quite safe here Accessible Adventures and accidents are rare. Depending on who Although it may not be the most accessible you book with, it’s totally accessible, too! city in the world, there are some incredible Ask a receptionist at your hotel or hostel organizations in Rio catering for disabled to help with translations when inquiring locals and tourists alike by providing acces- about access over the phone. The price of sible, inclusive and unforgettable activities the flight includes pick-up and drop-off on land, in the sea and up high. from your hotel. Adapted Surfing and Beach Life Bernard Moraes (Map p152; %021-99702- 3577; http://www.bernardprivatetours.com) With Rio is known for its amazing surf spots, years of experience taking people of all abilities on beachy fashion sense and gorgeous bikini tours to places such as Pão de Açúcar, Cristo Re- bods. Want a piece of the action? You can get dentor and the Escadaria Selarón, and adrenaline it in Copacabana, Leblon and Barra courtesy trips that include scuba diving and hang gliding, of these two excellent organizations: Bernard has a wealth of knowledge and a totally AdaptSurf (Map p144; %021-2239-1737; www. zen personality that will ease you right into the adaptsurf.org.br) Run by a dedicated couple carioca spirit. with regular events in Zona Sul and Barra, you 29 ROMARJ /GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SPORTS &ACTIVITIES

Surfing, Ipanema Beach (p40)

Other Activities ¨¨Flamengo & Around Take a stroll through Depending on tournament dates, you could Parque do Flamengo. catch a Powerchair Football match in cen- ¨¨Barra da Tijuca & Western Rio Hikes and tral Rio. Or visit ABBR, a hospital that feels climbs in Floresta da Tijuca, and Praia Para more like a university campus. It has its Todos on the weekends. own art shop selling handmade gifts made by patients in art therapy sessions. Visit www.abbr.org.br to find out more. Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Best football experience See a game at Marac- Activities by Neighborhood anã (p31).

¨¨Ipanema & Leblon The beach path provides a Best bike/wheelchair outing The trail from great work-out for all. Leblon to Leme. ¨¨Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa The lake- Best (st)roll Head down Avenida Atlantica, shore path provides a cool place to exercise first Copacabana, on a Sunday when the roads are thing in the morning. pedestrianized. ¨¨Copacabana & Leme Wander along the beach Best climb The ascent up Pão de Açúcar (p70). path; Adaptsurf on the weekends. Best surfing Join Adaptsurf (p28) in Leblon. ¨¨Botafogo & Urca Rock climb up Pão de Açúcar. Walk the short and more accessible Best airborne experience The (accessible) hang- Pista Cláudio Coutinho. gliding plunge off Pedra Bonita. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30 SLOW IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

Maracanã Football Stadium

Sports Venues

Venues for the 2016 Rio Olympics and Paralympics are spread across Rio and occupy some of the most picturesque parts of the city. At the time of writing, many of the arenas were still kept tightly under wraps, but we managed to get a taste of what this marvelous city will be offering. 31

MARCHELLO74 /GETTY IMAGES © Beware: some ramps at Maracanã don’t quite tick the boxes. One in particular, lead- ing from the metro station to the stadium, is extremely steep and many people with mobility issues will require assistance. Simi- larly, tactile flooring for those with visual impairments is inadequately placed and TRIP YOUR PLAN inconsistent at times.

Copacabana Beach This stunning waterfront spectacle (p60) in Zona Sul (the south zone) has welcomed sun-worshippers from far and wide and

seen countless world-famous surfers and SPORTS VENUES footballers celebrate on its sand. It has hosted big-name bands, New Year’s Eve Copacabana Beach celebrations and enough beach volleyball tournaments to last a lifetime. Its beautiful promenade, with a mosaic wave-patterned path, has become one of the most striking symbols of Rio de Janeiro. Maracanã Football Stadium Its 4.5km of golden sand is punctuated With a seating capacity of 78,000, and hav- by many welcoming kiosks at which you ing undergone extensive renovations in can buy fresh coconut water, and is pa- time for the 2014 World Cup and now the trolled by hawkers encouraging you to buy 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games, everything from scarves to photos of sand % Maracanã Football Stadium ( 021-8871- sculptures. Along the seafront are small sta- 3950; www.suderj.rj.gov.br/maracana.asp; Av Ma- tions, or postos, equipped with bathrooms racanã, São Cristóvão) has gained recognition and changing stations. On the seafront, you as one of the world’s great sporting venues. can also find several well-known restau- A visit to an event held here will surely be a rants and hotels, including Copacabana highlight of anyone’s Olympic experience. Palace (Map p146), famous for accommodat- Accessibility was a consideration in the ing politicians and celebrities. renovations and, on the whole, the stadium In terms of accessibility, all signage on really does stand out as inclusive. All the the beach and promenade is in both Eng- usual things can be expected: level access lish and Portuguese and there are several to most areas and accessibility through all accessible parking spaces dotted around for stadium gates; allocated and spacious ac- those with disabilities. However, the very cessible and companion seating; bilingual beautiful mosaic paving can prove difficult signage and sporadic Braille signage; and for those with reduced mobility, and acces- areas of contrasting color to aid those with sible toilets cannot easily be found. Many visual impairments. Large elevators provide nearby hotels, however, will welcome visi- plenty of room for all, but unfortunately not tors with disabilities to use their accessible all are equipped with audio floor indication. bathrooms. Much of the beach also lacks Accessible and adapted bathrooms are well- tactile flooring, visual contrast strips or marked and easy to find. sound signaling for visually impaired peo- In terms of transport, Maracanã metro ple, and there is no equipment to support station is situated just outside the stadium those who are hard of hearing. One last and is fully accessible for all, with helpful point: be careful of the pedestrian crossings and knowledgeable staff on hand. If you are as few have lowered curbs and many cross traveling by car, there are about 50 parking the cycle path. spaces specifically for those with disabilities at the State University, near the Quinta Barra and the Olympic Park da Boa Vista, which, although quite a way As one of the main arenas for the Rio 2016 from the stadium, will provide the most Olympic and Paralympic Games, the Cari- convenient access on busy days. oca One Arena offers comfortable seating, 32 excellent air-conditioning and absolutely areas of the arena. Descriptive sports com- spectacular views over Barra and beyond. mentary during the matches is delivered in Situated to the right of Olympic Park, and both Portuguese and English. First-aid staff between its sister arenas (aptly called Cari- are identifiable by their large armbands. oca Two and Three), this building is right Visitors with hearing impairments will in the middle of the sports action. With a be happy to know that lighting within the PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN large basketball court in the center of the arena is extremely natural and there are no arena, surrounded by tiered spectator seat- windows within the main seating sections, ing, everyone will get a great view of the preventing ‘lip-reading headaches’ and ena- events. bling all visitors to communicate regardless Each entrance gate into the arena pro- of where they are seated. Interpreters will vides level access, with elevators leading be present at the Games, and will likely use to the spectator areas. There are several International Sign (IS).

SPORTS VENUES wheelchair spaces within these areas (at the For more information about Parque highest points), alongside larger seats for Olímpico, see p107. those who require more room. The viewing platforms are separated by glass panels, en- Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas suring that people of all statures can enjoy Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (p53), with its the full experience. 7.2km shoreline, offers several opportunities At the time of writing, there were no for leisure activities. There are bike trails, wheelchair-accessible toilets available with- jogging tracks, playgrounds, sports courts, a in the arena, but we are assured that this skate park, areas for dogs, kiosks and bars. will have changed come Games time. One of the most popular areas of the lagoon In terms of transport, ramped bus stops is Parque Tom Jobim, the area between the are available for those requiring public Piraquê and Heliport Club, where live mu- transport to and from the venue. Taxis will sic can often be heard. A major event in the also be in great supply at Olympic and city’s calendar is the lighting of the floating Paralympic events. Christmas tree on the lake each year. If For those with visual impairments, all you’re around in December, don’t miss a elevators have Braille buttons and tactile nighttime visit. flooring is present throughout the outer

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: HANNAH COCKROFT, GOLD MEDAL WINNER Hannah Cockroft won a gold medal as a sprinter at the London 2012 Paralympic Games and holds the world records for both the 100m and 200m. She has been in Rio ahead of the 2016 Games. What do you like about Rio? Rio has absolutely stolen my heart: from the friendly, sup- portive people to the beautiful scenery, views and vibrant colors of the city. Rio is such an exciting place to be, I cannot wait to see how much more it comes to life for the Games. What are you most excited about when it comes to the Games? I think I’m most excited for the crowds. To have met and seen the Brazilian people, I already know they are going to welcome the Paralympics with open arms, just from their reactions of me training on the road next to Copacabana beach. They know we’re on our way and they’re as excited about it as I am! These people are going to make noise and I cannot wait to experience that! Where is the most accessible place you’ve been in Rio, and why? I found Sugarloaf Mountain [Pão de Açúcar] to be the most amazing and accessible place I visited. Obvi- ously three days in Rio is only a flying visit, so I’m sure there is lots more to see but I was amazed by the systems they had in place, with ramps onto and off the cable cars, well- trained security to help you, and lifts to every viewing platform and level of the mountain. I was a little apprehensive about whether I would be able to have an enjoyable experience whilst pushing uphill but it was incredible to have the opportunity to see everything that everyone else could see. Definitely a must-visit on anyone’s list! 33

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: EDUARDO MAYR, BRAZILIAN WHEELCHAIR RUGBY PLAYER As part of the Rio 2016 test events in February and March 2016, we attended a wheel- chair rugby (or ‘murderball’ as it was originally known) session at the Carioca One Arena

in the Olympic Park. Eduardo Mayr is a player on Brazil’s wheelchair rugby team. TRIP YOUR PLAN What’s your favorite thing about wheelchair rugby? I love the heat. The energy is like nothing else. The conditioning and technical stuff has really helped me, too. Are you excited for Rio 2016? Of course! I can’t wait for Rio, and the game of wheel- chair rugby to become bigger and better once the Games start. It’ll be great to invite people from all over the world to my home. What should visitors do while they are here? Go to Sugarloaf Mountain [Pão de Açúcar]. It’s my favorite. You can relax all day there and it is so beautiful. And for party- SPORTS VENUES ing? It’s got to be Lapa!

The park is surrounded by a low wall; Currently, there are no public toilets in access into the park is via small openings Parque Tom Jobim, and the ones that do along the wall. The famous mosaic paving exist at the kiosks for customer use are looks stunning, but can prove tough for inaccessible. However, we have been in- those with mobility impairments, as can formed that accessible public bathrooms the fact that curb cuts are a rarity around will be installed for the 2016 Games. the lake. It’s not all bad though: there is Getting there is probably easiest via taxi, reserved parking for people with disabili- although the Cantagalo metro station is not ties and ramps for easy access throughout. far away, and is accessible. Certain staff members are also trained to communicate in Brazilian Sign Language Other Venues (Libras). For general information about Rio de Ja- There are three piers in Parque Tom Jo- neiro’s other sporting venues, visit www. bim, all made of wooden slats, with steeply lonelyplanet.com/brazil/rio-de-janeiro. sloped access ramps. The tactile flooring For information about the accessibility of is not particularly helpful at the moment, other Paralympic and Olympic venues, visit but plans to change this for the Games are the official Rio 2016 websites, click through under way. Small food and drink kiosks are to the individual venues and look under available; just be aware that they are sur- ‘accessibility’. rounded by cramped tables and chairs. For information about other Paralympic venues, visit https://www.rio2016.com/en/ paralympics/venues For information about other Olympic venues, visit https://www.rio2016.com/en/venues ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 34 GARDEL BERTRAND / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©

Explore Rio de Janeiro

Neighborhoods at a Botafogo, Humaitá & Santa Teresa & Glance ...... 36 Urca ...... 68 Lapa...... 97 Top Sights...... 70 Top Sights...... 99 Ipanema & Leblon . . . . 38 Sights...... 72 Sights...... 100 Top Sights...... 40 Eating...... 73 Eating...... 101 Sights...... 41 Drinking & Nightlife...... 74 Drinking & Nightlife...... 102 Eating...... 42 Entertainment ...... 76 Entertainment ...... 103 Drinking & Nightlife...... 45 Shopping...... 76 Shopping...... 104 Entertainment ...... 46 Sports & Activities...... 76 Sports & Activities...... 104 Shopping...... 47 Sports & Activities...... 49 Flamengo & Around. . . . 77 Barra da Tijuca & Top Sights...... 79 Western Rio...... 105 Gávea, Jardim Sights...... 81 Sights...... 107 Botânico & Lagoa. . . . . 50 Eating...... 83 Eating...... 109 Top Sights...... 52 Drinking & Nightlife...... 84 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 110 Sights...... 53 Entertainment ...... 85 Entertainment ...... 110 Eating...... 54 Shopping...... 85 Shopping...... 111 Drinking & Nightlife...... 55 Sports & Activities...... 85 Shopping...... 56 Sleeping...... 112 Sports & Activities...... 57 Centro & Praça Mauá...... 86 Copacabana & Top Sights...... 88 Leme...... 58 Sights...... 90 Top Sights...... 60 Eating...... 92 Sights...... 61 Drinking & Nightlife...... 95 Eating...... 61 Entertainment ...... 95 Drinking & Nightlife...... 66 Shopping...... 96 Entertainment ...... 66 Shopping...... 67 Sports & Activities...... 67 35

RIO DE JANEIRO’S TOP SIGHTS

Ipanema Beach...... 40 Jardim Botânico ...... 52 Copacabana Beach...... 60 Pão de Açúcar...... 70 Cristo Redentor...... 79 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil...... 88 Museu Do Amanhã...... 89 Escadaria Selarón...... 99 Neighborhoods at a Glance ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 36

Neighborhoods at a Glance

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Baía de 1 1 1 1 Guanabara 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Museu do Amanhã SÃO â# CRISTÓVÃO GAMBOA SAÚDE PÇ MAUÁ 666SANTO 6# #æ Centro Cultural Jardim CRISTO Banco do Brasil Zoológico SAARA CENTRO Quinta da Boa Vista CASTELO

#ýMaracanã FÁTIMA CINELÂNDIA CIDADE Football Stadium NOVA 7# MARACANÃ #æEscadaria 6666ESTÁC6IO 6LAPA 6 CATUMBI Selarón

RIO COMPRIDO GLÓRIA SANTA TERESA 44 Baía de CATETE Guanabara 666666FLAMENGO 6 4# 4 LARANJEIRAS 5 COSME Parque do VELHO 44Flam4engo

Enseada 666Parque Naciona6l 66de Botafo6go da Tijuca #æ 44 URCA #æ Cristo BOTAFOGO 4# Pão de Redentor HUMAITÁ Açúcar #æ Floresta da Tijuca LAGOA 44

LEME 666JARDIM B6OTÂNICO 663# 6 Jardim 4COPACABA4NA 4 Botânico #æ BAIRRO Lagoa LAGOA PEIXOTO Ù#Copacabana Beach 2# Rodrigo de 4444 GÁVEA Freitas BAIXO COPA ATLANTIC 66666444 OCEAN LEBLON 1# IPANEMA

ARPOADOR D Ù# 84# 444Ipanem4a Beach 444

(6km) e# 0 2 km 66464464464 0 1 mile 37 Laranjeiras and, further west, Cosme Velho, above which looms Cristo Redentor (Christ 1 the Redeemer) atop Corcovado. Following Ipanema & Leblon p38 the curve of the bay north is Parque do Fla- Ipanema and Leblon share the same stretch mengo, home to cycling trails, sports fields, of south-facing shoreline. Rio’s beautiful and several monuments and museums. In-

people flock to these beaches, while the land from there, Catete and Glória hide his- NEIGHBORHOODS AT A GLANCE tree-lined streets just inland hide some of tory in their battered streets, including the the best eating, drinking and shopping in former presidential home. the city. 6 2 Centro & Praça Mauá p86 Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Centro is Rio’s business hub and also one Lagoa p50 of Rio’s oldest areas; it houses baroque The northern border of Ipanema and churches, historic sites, scenic plazas and Leblon is the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a lavish theaters. Its wide boulevards are saltwater lagoon fronted by the high-rent crisscrossed with narrow pedestrian streets districts of Gávea, Jardim Botânico and sprinkled with colonial buildings. History Lagoa. Here you’ll find open-air dining and aside, Centro has atmospheric open-air cafes and bars that draw the happy-hour drinking at lakeside restaurants, and ver-  dant botanical gardens to the west. crowd. North of Centro, Praça Mauá is the center of Rio’s revitalized port district and has some outstanding new museums. 3 Copacabana & Leme p58 The scalloped beach of Copacabana begins 7 northeast of Ipanema. Once a destination Santa Teresa & Lapa p97 for international jet-setters, Copacabana is On the southwestern edge of Centro, Lapa the city’s somewhat ragged tourist magnet, is a ramshackle neighborhood that’s also with dozens of oceanfront hotels and side- the epicenter of Rio’s nightlife, with doz- walk restaurants. The population density is ens of samba-filled bars and clubs, and high here and mixes old-timers, favela kids late-night street parties. Uphill from Lapa, and tourists, and high and low culture. Santa Teresa is a picturesque neighbor- hood of winding streets and old mansions that have been restored by the many artists 4 Botafogo, Humaitá & Urca and bohemian characters who have settled there. However, it’s without doubt the most p68 inaccessible area of Rio, especially as some Just north of Copacabana, Botafogo and parts of steep Santa Teresa are only suitable Humaitá are desirable neighborhoods with for motorcycles. vibrant nightlife, cutting-edge restaurants and a few intriguing museums and galler- ies in the area’s old mansions. East of Bota- 8 Barra da Tijuca & Western fogo, Urca retains a peaceful vibe and is famed for Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Moun- Rio p105 tain), which shadows its quiet streets. West of Leblon you’ll find great hiking amid the rainforest of Floresta da Tijuca. Nearby, hang gliders make their soaring descent. 5 Flamengo & Around p77 Further out, Barra da Tijuca is a sprawling suburb with a long, pretty beach, but you’ll To the north of Botafogo, residential neigh- need a car (or a driver) to get around. Other borhoods include low-key Flamengo, leafy ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 38

Ipanema & Leblon IPANEMA | LEBLON

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Frolicking in the waves, The promenade below is 4 Treating yourself at the sipping refreshing maté and particularly accessible and stunning (and accessible) watching people parade provides a pleasant stroll, Spa Maria Bonita (p49). on lovely Ipanema Beach with hotels and restaurants 5 Enjoying the spec- (p40). nearby. tacular view, with a (pricey) 2 Joining fishers and 3 Feasting on Bahian caipirinha in hand, from couples on rocky Ponta do snacks and browsing art- the rooftop bar of at Hotel Arpoador (p41) for the work and handicrafts at the Fasano (p115).

nightly spectacle of sunset. weekly Hippie Fair (p47).

a o

R Pacheco Le s

ão s e

Jardim P Botânico o R

o s i c c i o á Morro dos n r t â i i Cabritos

t e p o E (385m) B d e v m A i M Parque d Parque da r e dos a Catacumba J d Patins R LAGOA s Joquei e g r Clube o Lagoa Rodrigo te B de Freitas LAGOA GÁVEA n v ce A Vi e o Av Henriqu e S ã o h s d Ribeir Dodswort uê ário M a q R A R

r re n v d e a a a P a B Morro do b

v c u A n a M A ra a M

v F q 0c 0 el r a Cantagalo

e o R n t A 0a 0 o r ss o l e (202m) 0p 0 e f e P e o Av Ep o l i i L r s tác o d 0o 0

â u Fr o m 00 s r C q n i 00

a e R i N e e e asc

u o g iment Morro do 00

LEBLON n o d R a d u r d Silv b a 00

l c d o e M Pavão 0S 0 o e

A B M 00 o N i eir e t v rn 00

d r R V Ca v A isc 00 e ond

IPANEMA e de Pirajá es 0A 0 e artin R Pr m 00 d M udente l San de Morais 3# Go n nera R o Ge 4#

c Av Av Vieira Sou

s ira to 4i 4444444444 re

fim Mo 5# V el

Av D 1# v Morro dois A Praia Parque Garota Irmãos do Arpoador de Ipanema 444er 4444444444 em Ni ey Av 2# Praia ATLANTIC OCEAN 4do 4Vidigal 4444 4444 # 0 1 km e0 0.5 miles

44 For more detail of this area see Maps p142 and p144 A 39 Lonely Planet’s Explore Ipanema & Leblon Accessible Top Tip The favored address for young, beautiful and wealthy On Sundays the eastbound cariocas (residents of Rio), these twin neighborhoods lane of the beach road boast magnificent beaches and tree-lined streets full of closes to traffic and fills with cyclists, joggers and in-line

enticing open-air cafes, restaurants and bars. They’re Ipanema &Leb also the epicenter of the city’s high-end shopping, with skaters. The car-free stretch dozens of colorful boutiques and multistory galerias goes all the way up through (shopping centers) selling pretty things that can quickly Copacabana to Leme, which deplete a budget. While there are few traditional sights is particularly interesting here, you can bask on the beach and explore the leafy if you’re a wheelchair user: streets. Ipanema is also Rio’s gay district, which revolves enjoy the space and smooth roads. around the cafe and bar scene on and near Rua Farme l de Amoedo. on

 Ipanema acquired international fame in the early ’60s as the birthplace of the bossa nova hit song ‘Girl from Getting There & Ipanema.’ The neighborhood became the hangout of art- Away ists, intellectuals and wealthy liberals, who frequented Taxi if you’re staying in the sidewalk cafes and bars. These days the artists and Zona Sul, a taxi to this area intellectuals have moved on, and the area is better known should not cost more than for its high-priced apartments and luxury lifestyle. This R$30. is, after all, Rio’s most affluent district. While few cari- General Osório sta- ocas can afford to live here, the streets and beach attract Metro tion is particularly acces- a wide cross-section of society, from surf kids from the sible, and is also where line outskirts to long-time residents and fashion-conscious (linha) 1 starts. It’s a good tweny- and thirty-somethings who pack the open-sided option to take if you wish to bars by night. Ipanema and Leblon are also among the visit Copacabana without city’s top destinations for dining and drinking. having to trek a couple of In terms of accessibility, most big brand-name shops kilometers along the sea- have their headquarters here, so expect a lavish (and front. Get off at Siqueira more spacious) experience, with thought having gone Campos, the most accessi- into the design and layout of boutiques and jewelry ble station in Copacabana. stores. Luxurious hotels abound here and, as you’d ex- pect, accessibility generally improves as the price in- creases. Walkways are wide and relatively flat, taking a stroll along the seafront is pleasant, and hitting up the Hippie Fair at General Osorio Square is not to be missed.

Local Life ¨Markets Hit a market for fresh mangoes, passion fruit and snacks (such as the crepe-like tapioca). ¨Restaurant strips Rua Dias Ferreira in Leblon is packed with high-end restaurants that serve sushi, Italian tapas, Brazilian fusion and more. ¨Hangouts Ipanema and Leblon have many lively neighborhood bars, and many of the grand hotels also offer rooftop experiences. ¨Rainy-day escapes Shopping Leblon (p48) has plenty of rainy-day amusements including top-end shops, a movie theater and decent restaurants – some with views. It provides great accessible respite when needed, too. 40

IPANEMA BEACH

You’ve probably seen the photos and heard the DON’T MISS... jazzy theme song ‘Girl from Ipanema’, but nothing quite compares to the experience of kicking off your ¨¨The chance to try Havaianas and strolling along the golden sands of Rio’s your hand at adapted most-famous beach. If you’re a wheelchair user, wait surfing with AdaptSurf until the weekend to do this when you can borrow a (p28) in Leblon every beach chair from AdaptSurf (p28) or Praia Para Todos weekend. (p28). The beach is the city’s great backyard, free and ¨¨Globos (manioc flour open to all, with amusements of all kinds: from surfing biscuits) and maté and jogging along the shore to sitting back, agua de (sweet-tea drink). côco (coconut water) in hand, and watching Rio at play. ¨¨Rehydrating agua de One long stretch of sun-drenched sand, Ipanema Beach côco (coconut water). is demarcated by postos (posts), which mark off subcul- ¨¨Watching cariocas tures as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9, right off Rua show off their skills at Vinícius de Moraes, is Garota de Ipanema, which is where volleyball and futevolei Rio’s most lithe and tanned bodies tend to migrate. The (volleyball played with- area is also known as the Cemetério dos Elefantes because out using your hands). of the handful of old leftists, hippies and artists who some- times hang out there. In front of Rua Farme de Amoedo, the beach is known as Praia Farme, and is the stomping PRACTICALITIES ground for the gay community. Posto 8 further east is most- ¨¨Map p142 ly the domain of favela (slum, informal community) kids. Arpoador, between Ipanema and Copacabana, is Rio’s ¨¨Av Vieira Souto most popular surf spot. Leblon attracts a broad mix of single cariocas, as well as families from the neighborhood. Posto 10 is for sports lovers, where there are ongoing games of volleyball, soccer and frescobol (beach tennis played with wooden rackets and a rubber ball). Whatever spot you choose, you’ll enjoy cleaner sands and sea than those in Copacabana. Keep in mind that if you go on a Saturday or Sunday, the sands get crowded; go early to stake out a spot. Once on the beach, head to your favorite barraca (beach stall), where you can hire chairs and a sun umbrella. There are also food and drink stalls, though roving vendors will come to you, proffering cold drinks (try the sweet tea-like maté) and snacks (such as crunchy globos – a crispy biscuit made from manioc flour). A few warnings: The word ipanema is an indigenous word for ‘bad, dangerous waters’, which is not far off given the strong undertow and often oversized waves that crash onto the shore. Be careful, and swim only where locals do. Bring just enough cash for the day, and keep a close watch on your belongings. Petty theft is rife on the beach. Much like Copacabana Beach next door, Ipanema offers very beautiful mosaic paving that can prove difficult for those with reduced mobility, and accessible toilets cannot eas- ily be found. Many nearby hotels, however, will welcome visitors with disabilities who want to use their accessible bathrooms. Unfortunately, much of the beach also lacks tac- tile flooring, visual contrast strips or sound signaling for visually impaired people, and there is no equipment to support those who are hard of hearing. At the weekends, head further down to Leblon beach where you can engage in some adapted surfing. 41 1 SIGHTS There’s a free shuttle service to and from major hotels in Rio. This usually involves a IPANEMA BEACH BEACH minibus with an entrance that is quite high, See p40. even with the added stool that is available, and may not be suitable for those who are unable to transfer independently. However,

1 Ipanema discuss your requirements at the booking Ipanema &Leb stage and the representatives may be able PONTA DO ARPOADOR VIEWPOINT to book alternatives. The headquarters Map p142 (Av Vieira Souto) At the far eastern themselves are fully accessible for those end of Av Vieira Souto, this rocky point with limited mobility, with an elevator to juts out into the water and serves as one of each floor and a small accessible bathroom Rio’s best places for watching the sunset. on each level. As part of the service a guide

Throughout the day, you’ll spot fishers cast- is on hand every step of the way – great if l ing off the rock, couples stealing a few kiss- you need a push! on es and photographers snapping that iconic The tour itself is in a very dark area, S length of Ipanema Beach that stretches off with only the luminous colors of the display ights toward the towering peaks of Dois Irmãos. lighting the way. The audio tour, however, You’ll also see large flocks of surfers jockey- is very thorough in describing what is hap- ing for position offshore. Around the west- pening behind each window, and is avail- ern edge of the rock is the tiny, secluded able in many languages. An attendant is Praia do Diabo (Devil’s Beach); it’s a fine always in the elevator, too, removing any place to take in the views, but swim with worries about the visibility of buttons and caution. A very rustic gym is built into the closing doors. There is no tactile flooring rocks (think Fred Flintstone–style barbells or contrasting visual signposts throughout with concrete weights and chin-up bars). the rest of the experience. Strolling to the Arpoador is accessible Unfortunately H Stern does not offer an and pleasant, especially on the tiled prom- interpreter for the experience, nor a hear- enade, although getting onto the sand be- ing loop. Throughout the tour, however, low may prove tricky for some. At Posto written information is available in both 7 there is a step-free but relatively small English and Portuguese. In the showrooms bathroom for those who are able to use it. and shops, calculators can be used to nego- If getting high onto the rocks or down onto tiate prices. the beach is tricky, fear not – the views are just as stunning from the outdoor kiosks. PARQUE GAROTA DE IPANEMA PARK Beware: there is little shade in this area, so Map p142 (off Francisco Otaviano, near Bulhões go prepared. Carvalho; h7am-7pm) This small park next to Ponto do Arpoador features a tiny play- H STERN MUSEUM ground, a concrete area popular with skat- Map p142 (%021-2106-0000; www.hstern.net; ers, and a lookout with a view of Ipanema Garcia d’Ávila 113; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Beach. On weekends in summer, occasional Sat) F The famous jeweler H Stern al- concerts are held here. lows visitors to get a glimpse behind the As expected with a park, there are no scenes at these gemological headquarters. accessibility features here. It is, however, A 12-minute audio tour shows the process an excellent place to seek refuge from of turning the rough stones into flawlessly Ipanema’s constant bustle. cut jewels, and you can peer behind the laboratory windows to see craftspeople, ELEVADOR DO MORRO cutters, goldsmiths and setters at work. DO CANTAGALO VIEWPOINT While there you can also ask to visit Map p142 (Barão da Torre & Teixeira de Melo) F the small museum with its display of rare Connected to the metro station off Praça mineral specimens and a large collection General Osório, this elevator whisks passen- of tourmalines. Following the tour, you’ll gers up to Cantagalo, a favela that’s wedged meet with a sales rep, which some people between Ipanema and Copacabana. The find uncomfortable. A polite ‘No, thank sparkling sea views from the elevator are you,’ will usually see you to the next level quite fine, though local residents are just (the showroom) and then on to the exit. happy to have a convenient way to get home 42 that doesn’t mean ascending hundreds of 5 EATING steps. From the top, keep heading uphill for even better views over Ipanema and Lagoa Rio’s best restaurants lie in the Rodrigo de Freitas. neighborhoods of Ipanema & Leblon. As far as security goes, Cantagalo has Along the tree-lined side streets been safe to visit since the police pacifica- abutting the major thoroughfares, you’ll find a mix of trendy eateries, outdoor Ipanema &Leb tion units arrived in 2009. Recent high- profile visitors include Lady Gaga, Carla cafes and juice bars. Price and quality Bruni and Brazil’s president, Dilma Rouss- generally run high here, though the eff. In terms of accessibility, the views are stylish new flavor of the month doesn’t great but unfortunately there is little else always live up to the hype. available. At the top, there is an extremely Unless otherwise noted, the following steep uphill climb, steps, and uneven ter- do not have accessibility features

l rain. It’s definitely something to look into for those with hearing or visual on if you fancy a challenge or have particularly impairments.

E active company, though. ating 5 Ipanema 1 Leblon URUGUAI SNACKS $ MIRANTE DO LEBLON VIEWPOINT Map p142 (Posto 9, Ipanema Beach; sandwiches (Av Niemeyer) A few fishers casting out to sea R$12-18; hnoon-5pm) Of the many barra- mingle with couples admiring the view at cas (food stalls) on the beach, Uruguai is a this overlook uphill from the western end long-term favorite and serves scrumptious of Leblon Beach. The luxury Sheraton Ho- grilled chicken, beef or sausage sandwiches. tel looms to the west, with the photogenic Look for the blue-and-white striped Uru- favela of Vidigal nearby. guayan flag flying high over the beach. For a more accessible option, have a It’s totally accessible for anyone able to drink poolside at the Sheraton Hotel and get straight onto the beach, but not ideal for look out onto the sea. The hotel can also anyone with mobility issues who is trave- act as a good meeting point as, for those ling alone. who are able to, heading across the road VERO ICE CREAM $ and up into the Vidigal favela to take a few % snaps of the sunset is absolutely worth it; it Map p142 ( 021-3497-8754; Visconde de Pirajá h is difficult not to feel humbled by the vista 260; ice cream R$11-16; 11am-midnight) This before you. artisanal Italian-run gelateria whips up Rio’s best ice cream. You’ll find more than PRAIA DE LEBLON BEACH two dozen rich and creamy temptations, in- (Map p144) Separated from Ipanema by cluding gianduia (chocolate with hazelnut), the gardens and canal of Jardim de Alah, caramelo com flor de sal (caramel with sea Leblon Beach attracts families and has a salt), figo com amêndoas (fig with almond) slightly more sedate vibe than its eastern and classic flavors such as morango (straw- counterpart. Parents with little ones may berry). The selection changes daily. want to check out Baixo Bebê, between pos- A ramp leads into the store, which is all tos 11 and 12, where you’ll find a small play- on one level. The staff speak English, al- ground on the sand as well as other young though there is no English menu. Unfortu- families. nately, bathrooms are for staff only. It’s definitely a place to go if you fancy GALITOS GRILL BRAZILIAN $ a bit of accessible adrenaline: the beach is % home to AdaptSurf (p28), an initiative set Map p142 ( 021-2287-7864; Farme de Amoedo h up to encourage anyone with a disability to 62; mains R$18-44; noon-10pm) This open- ride the waves in style. Beach chairs, ramps sided purveyor of roast chicken is a handy and accessible bathrooms are available, eating spot in the neighborhood. Grab a and the sessions take place most weekends. seat at the counter and enjoy inexpensive, It would be difficult to not feel immediately nicely seasoned lunch specials whipped up welcome and see the sands of Rio in a to- in a hurry. tally different light. The entrance is step-free and the restau- rant is all on one level with English menus. 43

HOPE IN RIO’S FAVELAS Residents of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas (slums, informal communities) face enormous obstacles. Many families live in communities lacking basic essentials such as sewers, medical clinics and roads. Children attend some of the city’s worst schools; many, indeed, drop out. The long bus commute for those heading to work can often take hours on traffic-snarled roads for a salary that may not even meet their basic living Ipanema &Leb expenses. There’s also a social stigma attached to living in the slums, some of which – particularly those far removed from visitors’ eyes – are still run by local drug lords. Yet it isn’t all gloom for Rio’s estimated one million favela residents. In the past two decades locally managed organizations have begun appearing in favelas across the city. While small in scale, these nonprofits offer residents the chance to learn new skills and gain a sense of pride. They also give something often in short supply – hope. l

For many poor favela children, the Grupo Cultural Afro Reggae (GCAR; www. on

afroreggae.org) is a lifeline. Since 1997 the GCAR has run a cultural center in the E

Vigário Geral favela, offering workshops in music, theater, dance, hip-hop and ca- ating poeira (Brazilian martial art). The center provides kids with a chance to get off the street, tap into their Afro-Brazilian heritage and gain self-esteem in the setting and fulfillment of goals. Owing to the center’s wide popularity, these ideas have spread. GCAR and its favela affiliates now offer more than 60 different programs for poor residents around Rio. Rocinha, Brazil’s largest favela, creates similar opportunities for local residents at its Casa da Cultura. Founded in 2003 by Gilberto Gil, Minister of Culture, singer and neighbor, the center draws on the favela’s rich artistic tradition, and offers classes in music, theater and painting. The favela next door, Vidigal, perched on a hillside over- looking Ipanema beach, is the base of the group Nós do Morro (Us from the Favela; www.nosdomorro.com.br). This theater group won fame after some of its young actors appeared in the award-winning film Cidade de Deus (City of God) and 10 of its mem- bers performed in The Two Gentlemen of Verona for the Royal Shakespeare Company in 2006. The organization celebrates its 30th-year anniversary in 2016 and its work has expanded to offer Vidigal kids and adults the opportunity to take courses in theat- er and filmmaking. Nós do Morro also hosts exhibitions, stages shows and screens open-air films in the favela. As many have discovered, the favela has a deep well of talent but few opportuni- ties. Opportunity is exactly what sociologist Maria Teresa Leal had in mind when she founded a sewing collective in Rocinha in the 1980s. The idea began during Leal’s re- peated trips to the favela, where she encountered many talented seamsters who had no chance to earn money for their skills. So began Coopa Roca, comprising a small group of women, each working from home to produce quilts, pillows and craft items made of recycled fabrics and other materials. As of 2015 the co-op employs some 100 women, and makes pieces for Brazilian and international designers; its work has been displayed at museums in cities such as Rio, New York and Paris. Favelas have made numerous contributions to the city. Rio’s biggest party, Car- naval, was born in the favelas, which continue to be pivotal to the festival. That favelas throw the best parties has long been known to many cariocas (residents of Rio). To- day, Baile Funks are a well-known aspect of the party scene, luring both rich and poor to the gritty neighborhoods on the hillsides. It’s there that DJs spin a blend of Rio’s bass-heavy tunes (with almost no relation to American-style funk) to packed dance floors. Accessibility is also gradually improving in these communities, with equipment such as the Cantagalo elevator having been installed to help those with mobility issues. Similar initiatives have also taken hold closer to home, with some residents building lifts, ramps and hoists for their disabled neighbors. Favelas are definitely places where real communities can be accessed easily, something that can’t be said of the tourist streets of Ipanema and Leblon. 44 The bathrooms are not accessible, so you’ll need to use those in nearby hotels. 5 Leblon

KONI STORE JAPANESE $ ARMAZÉM DO CAFÉ CAFE $ Map p142 (%021-2521-9348; Maria Quitéria 77; Map p144 (%021-3874-3678; Rita Ludolf 87B; hand rolls R$12-17; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am snacks R$6-12; h8am-11pm) Dark-wood fur- Fri & Sat) Ipanema &Leb Numbering almost two dozen nishings and the aroma of freshly ground branches in Rio, the Koni craze shows no coffee lend authenticity to this Leblon coffee- sign of abating. The recipe is simple: tema- house. It serves waffles, snacks and desserts, ki (seaweed hand roll) stuffed with salmon, and connoisseurs rate the aromatic roasts tuna, shrimp, roast beef or a combination here much more highly than at neighboring of ingredients, which can then be devoured cafes. at one of the tiny bistro tables. It’s healthy, Table service and accessible outdoor

l tasty and cheap, which are a few reasons seating make up for the inaccessible en- on why you’ll have to wait in line among night- trance and bathrooms. Staff speak little

E club kids for a roll at 4am on a Friday. There English, but there is an English menu. ating are numerous other branches around town. One small step leads into Koni, but there ZONA SUL SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET $ is also seating outside and waiter service. Map p144 (%021-2259-4699; Dias Ferreira 290; It’s all on one floor and has an English h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 7am-10pm Sun) A Rio in- menu. The bathroom door is quite narrow stitution for nearly 50 years, with branches so may be suitable only for those who can all over the city. This one is the best of the transfer easily and briefly weight-bear. bunch, with freshly baked breads, imported cheeses and olives, wines, cured meats and LA VERONESE PIZZA $ other items. The adjoining pizza and lasa- Map p142 (%021-2247-3152; Visconde de Pirajá gna counter serves decent plates. There’s 29; mini pizzas R$5; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat, 9am- an Ipanema branch (Map p142; Prudente de 2:30pm Sun) If Rio is destroying your budget, Morais 49; h24hr Mon-Sat, 7am-8pm Sun) near head to this friendly stand-up snack coun- Praça General Osório. ter for one of the best deals in the Zona Zona Sul is accessible, but with narrow Sul: the R$5 mini pizza with crispy crust is check-out aisles, which can be tricky for excellent value, and you can top it off with wheelchair users. Aside from the check- a few strangely addictive palmeiras (palm- outs, access shouldn’t be a problem for shaped cookies). anyone. The entrance is completely accessible for wheelchair users and there are no steps. VEGETARIANO SOCIAL CLUB VEGETARIAN $$ Unfortunately, there is no bathroom and no Map p144 (%021-2294-5200; Conde Bernadotte English menu. 26L; buffet lunch R$41; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 5:30pm Sun; v) Vegetarians interested GAROTA DE IPANEMA BRAZILIAN $$ in sampling one of Brazil’s signature dish- Map p142 (%021-2522-0340; Vinícius de Moraes es should visit this small charmer on a 49; mains R$36-96; hnoon-2am) A mix of visi- Wednesday or a Sunday when tofu feijoada tors and neighborhood regulars pack the is served. At other times it serves a 10-dish tables at the former bar where ‘The Girl lunch buffet, while the more elaborate from Ipanema’ composers Tom Jobim and evening à la carte menu features risottos, Vinícius de Moraes once held court. Al- yakisoba (Japanese grilled noodles), heart- though the food is fairly standard Brazil- of-palm stroganoff and other inventive ian fare, one dish stands out: the picanha dishes. Brasileira (R$96 for two), a scrumptious A ramped and accessible entrance is skillet of sliced sirloin brought sizzling to available, as are English-speaking staff your table. Wash it down with a few glasses and English menus. The bathrooms are of ice-cold chope (draft beer) and you’ll real- unadapted and are therefore inaccessible ize why Garotas have been springing up all to wheelchair users. over the city. The ramped entrance is fully accessible, SUSHI LEBLON JAPANESE $$$ staff speak English and English menus are Map p144 (%021-2512-7830; Dias Ferreira 256; available. There is no accessible bathroom. mains R$60-90; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-1:30am Mon- Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun) Leblon’s top sushi des- 45 tination boasts a Zen-like ambience, with a BARTHODOMEU BOTECO handsome dark-wood sushi counter setting Map p142 (%021-2247-8609; Maria Quitéria 46; the stage for succulent cuisine. In addition hnoon-2am) Barthodomeu is a friendly bar to sashimi and sushi, you’ll find grilled with boteco charm. It’s open-sided with namorado (a type of perch) with passion wooden tables, minimal decor and waiters fruit farofa (manioc flour sautéed with but- that bustle about under trays of chope, fei-

ter), sea-urchin ceviche and refreshing sake joada, grilled meats and appetizers. Ipanema &Leb to complement the meal. With three floors, no elevator and A portable ramp is available in order to bathrooms only upstairs, this place is not make the entrance accessible for all, how- ideal for those with mobility impairments, ever, wheelchair users will struggle to fit although accessible outdoor seating is into the unadapted bathroom. Staff speak available. Staff speak English and there are English and English menus are available. English menus. l DEVASSA BOTECO on

% DRINKING & Map p142 ( 021-2540-8380; Visconde de Pi- D rinking 6 rajá 539; hnoon-2am) Devassa makes its own NIGHTLIFE creamy brews and offers them up to chatty cariocas at this bar and restaurant; it’s one Ipanema has a mix of stylish and of seven in the Rio chain. The choices: loura classic bars attracting a twenty- and &N (pilsner), sarará (wheat beer), ruiva (pale thirtysomething crowd. For drinking

ale), negra (dark ale) and Índia (India Pale ightlife alfresco, you will find peacefully set Ale; IPA). The food menu features well- tables along the east side of Praça prepared pub fare: burgers, steak, pastas, General Osório. grilled fish and lots of appetizers. Leblon has even more bars on offer An accessible side entrance is available than Ipanema, with venerable botecos via the nearby Mar Ipanema Hotel. Staff (small open-air bars) and a few lounges speak English and English menus are avail- as well. A particularly good place to able. Note that the toilets at Devassa are wander in search of a drink is toward the small cubicles at a right angle; nearly im- west end of Av General San Martin. possible for any wheelchair user. It’s worth Unless otherwise noted, the following asking the hotel if you can use their bath- do not have accessibility features rooms instead. for those with hearing or visual impairments. GAROTA DE IPANEMA BAR Map p142 (%021-2522-0340; Vinícius de Moraes 49; hnoon-2am) During its first incarna- 6 Ipanema tion, this small, open-sided bar was called the Bar Veloso. Its name and anonymity BAR ASTOR BAR disappeared once two scruffy young regu- Map p142 (www.barastor.com.br; Vieira Souto 110; lars – Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes – h6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 1pm-3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, penned the famous song, ‘The Girl from noon-10pm Sun) Can’t make it to São Paulo? Ipanema.’ It changed history, and the name No problem. One of Sampa’s best bars has of the street, too. become a mainstay of post-beach revelry on There’s a ramped entrance and English- prime real estate along the Ipanema shore- speaking staff, but no accessible bathrooms. front. This gorgeous art deco bar does metic- ulously prepared caipirinhas, some 20 exotic LORD JIM PUB flavors in all, and great food to help soak up Map p142 (%021-2294-4881; Paul Redfern 44; the quality cachaça (sugarcane alcohol). admission R$10-15; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat, from A perfect place for lunch after a Sunday noon Sun) Something of a novelty for cari- morning at the Hippie Fair (p47), Bar As- ocas, Lord Jim is one of several English- tor has an accessible entrance and only one style pubs scattered about the Zona Sul. moderate step down to the semi-outdoor English-speaking waiters and a few expat seating area, which staff are happy to help beers – Guinness, Harps, Bass etc – are on with. Staff speak English and an English hand to complete the ambience. The R$40 menu is available. It gets absolutely packed all-the-beer-and-caipirinhas-you-can-drink on weekends, so getting to the bathroom nights (currently Wednesdays from 6pm to will not prove easy. 10pm) get messy. Unlike many bars, there’s 46 always a cover charge here, though drink with ease. Staff don’t speak English, but an specials lessen the hurt. English menu is available. Although it’s spread over two floors with no elevator, Lord Jim has a ramped, ac- JOBI BOTECO cessible entrance and ground-level seating Map p144 (%021-2274-0547; Av Ataúlfo de Paiva outside. Staff speak English and there’s an 1166; h9am-5am) A favorite since 1956, Jobi

Ipanema &Leb English menu. A fully adapted bathroom has served a lot of beer in its day, and its with handrails is on the ground floor. popularity hasn’t waned. The unadorned botequim (bar with table service) still BARETTO-LONDRA LOUNGE serves plenty; grab a seat by the sidewalk Map p142 (%021-3202-4000; Av Vieira Souto and let the night unfold. If hunger beck- 80; h8pm-2am Thu-Sat) You’ll find one of ons, try the tasty appetizers; the carne seca Rio’s most glam bars here inside the Hotel (jerked beef) and the bolinhos de bacalhau

l Fasano, and it offers a vision of decadence (codfish croquettes) are tops. on matched by few of the city’s night spots. The entrance is fully accessible and

E The intimate space, designed by Philippe English menus are available. However, the ntertainment Starck, has an enchantingly illuminated small bathroom does not accommodate a bar, leather armchairs and divans, and a DJ wheelchair user. spinning world electronica. The crowd is A-list; the drinks are pricey COBAL DO LEBLON BAR (cocktails cost around R$35); and unless Map p144 (%021-2239-1549; Gilberto Cardoso; you’re a model (or have one on your arm), h6pm-1am Tue-Sun) Leblon’s flower-and- be prepared for a long wait at the door. produce market is home to this popular Baretto-Londra is accessible for wheel- outdoor bar hidden on the large back ter- chair users, and has an accessible toilet. As race. It draws groups of friends and young you’d expect from a popular night spot, it is families, and is particularly lively on game a noisy place with limited lighting. days. There’s also an eatery: Pizza Park. No specific accessibility equipment is POLIS SUCOS JUICE BAR available here, or in the market in general. Map p142 (%021-2247-2518; Maria Quitéria 70; But in Rio, outdoor venues are usually pret- juices R$8; h7am-midnight) One of Ipanema’s ty accessible – as long as you know where favorite spots for a dose of freshly squeezed the nearest accessible bathroom is! vitamins, this juice bar facing the Praça NS de Paz has dozens of flavors. You can pair BAR VELOSO BOTECO those tangy beverages with sandwiches or Map p144 (%021-2274-9966; Aristides Espínola pão de queijo (balls of cheese-stuffed tapi- 44; h11am-1am) Named after the origi- oca bread). nal bar (now Garota de Ipanema, p45) The entrance is accessible, although no where Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes bathrooms are available. Staff don’t speak penned the song ‘The Girl from Ipanema’, English, but they do have an English menu. the open-sided Bar Veloso attracts a young, good-looking crowd, who spill out onto the sidewalk on busy weekends. Upstairs there’s 6 Leblon a quieter air-conditioned retreat where (mostly) men watch the game in peace. ACADEMIA DA CACHAÇA BAR No specific accessibility features are Map p144 (%021-2529-2680; Conde Bernadotte available, but this may be a good choice if a 26G; hnoon-1am) Although cachaça has quick outdoor drink with the locals is what a sordid reputation in some parts, at this you’re looking for. bar the fiery liquor is given the respect it (nearly) deserves. Along with traditional Brazilian dishes, this pleasant indoor- outdoor spot serves more than 100 varieties 3 ENTERTAINMENT of cachaça; order it straight, with honey TEATRO DO LEBLON PERFORMING ARTS and lime, or in a fruity caipirinha. Map p144 (%021-2529-7700; Conde Bernadotte The entrance to Academia Da Cachaça is 26, Leblon) This nicely located theater shows accessible, and the bathroom is larger than a mix of drama, cutting-edge shows and average but still arguably unsuitable for children’s performances on three different those who cannot weight-bear or transfer 47 stages. In the same complex is an assort- black-eyed peas and shrimp, with a sauce of ment of lively eating and drinking spots. vatapá – manioc paste, coconut and dendê A ramped entrance and a larger, more ac- (palm) oil; R$9), plus excellent desserts cessible bathroom are both available here. (R$4). Don’t miss it. The theater is set over two floors, with no You’ll find a good mix of tourists and lo- elevator on-site, so those unable to manage cals here, and you can barter a little (any

stairs will only be able to view ground-floor language barriers are just part of the fair’s Ipanema &Leb shows or shows with ground-floor seating. charm). Most stall owners accept credit and Staff don’t speak English and any subtitles debit cards. or audio descriptions are in Portuguese. The fair is flat throughout, and stalls are spaciously set out. Watch out for the usual ESTAÇÃO NET IPANEMA CINEMA Portuguese tiling, though – it’s not great Map p142 (%021-2279-4603; Visconde de Pi- for anyone who uses any kind of mobility rajá 605, Ipanema) On the 1st floor of a small aid. There are no accessible bathrooms on l shopping complex in Ipanema, this cinema site, although they are available around the on screens popular contemporary films from General Osorio square. S hopping Brazil and abroad. Its single theater seats 140 people. GILSON MARTINS ACCESSORIES Although these screens are on the first Map p142 (%021-2227-6178; Visconde de Pirajá floor, there is an electronic stair-climber 462; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Designer Gilson available for those unable to manage stairs Martins transforms the Brazilian flag and (if you are feeling brave!). Once up, all silhouettes of Pão de Açúcar and Corco- screens are accessible, although the bath- vado into eye-catching accessories in his rooms will not suitable for everyone. Staff flagship store in Ipanema. This is the place don’t speak English, and any subtitles or for one-of-a-kind glossy handbags, wallets, audio descriptions that are present during passport covers, key chains and iPad cov- screenings are in Portuguese. ers. Products are durable and use recycled and sustainable materials – and are not available outside of Rio. A ramped entrance and larger bathroom 7 SHOPPING with handrail are available. Staff speak Ipanema and Leblon are the best hunting English. grounds for top fashion designer pieces, GAROTA DE IPANEMA CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES both home-grown and foreign labels. Map p142 (%021-2521-3168; Vinícius de Mo- You’ll also find curio and novelty stores, raes 53; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Located galleries, bookshops, liquor stores and next to the famous restaurant of the plenty of cafes for refueling along the same name (see p44), this tiny boutique way. There’s a lot going on along the is an excellent place to browse for at- main thoroughfares of Rua Visconde tractive, reasonably priced bikinis and de Pirajá in Ipanema and Av Ataúlfo de beachwear. There are also eye-catching Paiva in Leblon. T-shirts (for men and women), trucker hats, Unless otherwise noted, the following bags and other accessories. do not have accessibility features A ramped entrance is available and staff for those with hearing or visual speak English. impairments. AMSTERDAM SAUER JEWELRY Map p142 (%021-3539-0165; www.amsterdam 7 Ipanema sauer.com; Visconde de Pirajá 484; h9am-7pm o Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Well-known for its im- HIPPIE FAIR MARKET pressive collection of precious stones, Map p142 (Praça General Osório; h9am-6pm Amsterdam Sauer also sells finely crafted Sun) The Zona Sul’s most famous market, jewelry. Watches, pens, wallets and other the Hippie Fair (aka Feira de Arte de Ip- accessories are available, too. Check out its anema) has artwork, jewelry, handicrafts, museum on Garcia d’Avila while in the area. clothing and souvenirs for sale. Stalls in the Works were being done on the Amster- four corners of the plaza sell tasty plates dam Sauer building at the time of writing; of acarajé (croquettes made from mashed stay tuned for the updated accessibility 48 features. In the meantime, call them if your vacation funds, as well as good restau- you’d like to visit. Staff speak English. rants and a cinema. Parking and drop off-points are both H STERN JEWELRY, ACCESSORIES readily available and accessible, and en- Map p142 (%021-2274-3447; www.hstern.com. trances to the mall are step-free. On enter- br; Visconde de Pirajá 490; h9:30am-6:30pm ing the center on the ground floor, there is a Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Ipanema &Leb The famous jeweler H steep ramp taking users down to the shops – Stern has an array of finely crafted jewelry, great for going down but quite a workout on watches and other accessories for sale. At the way back up! Staff are on hand to assist, the company’s nearby headquarters, you though, and will happily help. can take a tour of the H Stern gem museum There are several large elevators within (p41). the center that are easily big enough for both manual and power wheelchair users.

l The elevators also have Braille buttons. on 7 Leblon Tactile flooring is only available to ‘warn’

S hopping users, for example, it is available at elevator ARGUMENTO BOOKS, MUSIC entrances. Map p144 (%021-2239-5294; Dias Ferreira 417; Within the usual bathrooms, there are h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun) One larger, accessible cubicles, with Braille on of Leblon’s fine neighborhood bookstores, the main bathroom doors. Argumento stocks a small but decent selec- There are bilingual signs throughout tion of foreign-language books and maga- Shopping Leblon, most of which are con- zines. Audiobooks are also available. The veniently cream with a brown background, charming cafe in the back is the perfect making them more accessible for those place to disappear with a book. with visual impairments. Argumento has a ramped, accessible en- There are reserved tables within the food trance and a spacious, but not specifically court for those with reduced mobility. adapted, bathroom. Staff speak English, Shopping Leblon also has a cinema. All although there are no English menus avail- screens are accessible and there is an ac- able in the spacious cafe. cessible bathroom. There are preferential ticket and food desks for those with dis- ESCH CAFÉ CIGARS abilities, and there is a wheelchair space Map p144 (%021-2512-5651; Dias Ferreira 78; or two in each cinema. Audio descriptions h3pm-midnight Mon, from noon Tue-Sat, 2-10pm and subtitles are available, but these are in Sun) This restaurant-bar is also the ‘House Portuguese. of Havana,’ which means if you have a taste Along with many others, the following for Cuban cigars, this is your place. The shops are within Shopping Leblon: humidor is stocked with a decent selection, which you can enjoy there over a glass of ¨Maria Oiticica JEWELRY port, or a few blocks away on the beach. It Map p144 (%21 3875-8025; Shop 112B) S Using also has a Centro branch. native materials found in the Amazon, Ma- A ramped, accessible entrance leads in- ria Oiticica has created some lovely hand- side, although a single step precedes the crafted jewelry inspired by indigenous art. bathroom, making it inaccessible for some Seeds, plant fibers and tree bark are just mobility-impaired people. The restaurant some of the components of her bracelets, is spacious (a rarity in Rio!) and there’s an necklaces, earrings and sandals. There are English-language menu but no English- even sandals and handbags made from fish speaking staff. ‘leather.’ Maria Oiticica has a partnership with sev- SHOPPING LEBLON SHOPPING CENTER eral indigenous tribes in the Amazon, which Map p144 (%021-2430-5122; www.shopping gather raw materials and even handcraft leblon.com.br; Av Afrânio de Melo Franco 290; some of her pieces. h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) This glitter- ¨Wöllner Outdoor CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES ing multistory shopping center packed with top-name Brazilian and foreign labels is the (%021-3496-1230; Shop 112) The great out- best shopping destination in Leblon. It has doors, and the clothes you’ll need to enjoy plenty of tempting stores that will drain it, seem to be the inspiration for Wöllner. Clothes and accessories are ruggedly styled, 49 not unlike Abercrombie and American Ea- diving courses, plus dive tours around Rio’s gle. There’s another branch in Ipanema main beaches and Ilha Cagarras (the island (Map p142; %2512-6531; Visconde de Pirajá 511; in front of Ipanema), as well as the premier h10am-9pm Mon-Fri). dive spots in Arraial do Cabo, west of Rio. ¨Livraria da Travessa BOOKS, MUSIC Accessible and adapted courses are avail- (%021-3138-9600; Shop 205) One of several able for people with disabilities. Bookings branches around town, Livraria da Traves- and course plans should be made with the Ipanema &Leb sa has a small selection of foreign-language specially qualified instructors well in ad- books and periodicals, and some CDs and vance – preferably before your arrival in Rio. audiobooks. Staff speak English. Theory exam centers are all over Rio, however, the only accessible ones are in ¨Antonio Bernardo JEWELRY Barra and Tijuca. They are fully accessible (%021-2523-3192; Shop 302) Designer- and have all necessary features, such as goldsmith Antonio Bernardo has garnered ramps, elevators and adapted bathrooms. l attention for his lovely bracelets, earrings Adapted exams are also available for those on and necklaces. The designs are unique and with visual or hearing impairments, and S artfully done, and Bernardo uses high- courses can be taken in English, French or ports quality materials. There’s another branch German, as well as Portuguese. in Ipanema (Map p142; %2512-7204; Garcia d’Ávila 121; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat). SPA MARIA BONITA SPA &A Map p142; (%021-2513-4050; www.spamaria

ctivities ¨ CLOTHING Espaço Fashion bonita.com.br; Level P, Prudente de Morais 729, Map p144 (%021-2294-0526; Shop 112) This Ipanema) Although better known for its lush boutique has an aesthetic aimed at a young, spa resort in Friburgo, Maria Bonita does hip, somewhat fashion-forward group of offer a full range of treatments for those shoppers, with its form-fitting skirts, dress- who’d rather not trek out to the country- es and tops, its flashy sneakers and its one- side. Options here include aromatherapy of-a-kind jewelry. baths, deep-tissue massage, shiatsu and Espaco Fashion is fully accessible for acupuncture. There is also an organic and those with mobility impairments, with a raw-food restaurant on-site. larger fitting room for wheelchair users. The entrance is fully accessible, although those with mobility impairments are only able to access the ground floor of the spa. SPORTS & A specifically adapted treatment room and 2 bathroom have been installed for guests ACTIVITIES with disabilities. Staff speak English, and DIVE POINT DIVING one staff member is fluent in Brazilian Sign Language. Map p144 (%021-96429-0895; www.divepoint. The restaurant is also fully accessible, com.br/english; Shop 04, Av Ataúlfo de Paiva 1174, and English menus are available. Leblon) Scuba divers can rent equipment or take classes from Dive Point. It also offers ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 50

Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa GÁVEA | JARDIM BOTÂNICO | LAGOA

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Hiring a bike and newly refurbished (and very 4 Sipping cocktails in going for a spin around the accessible) Museu do Meio an open-air setting while Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas Ambiente (p53). admiring the view from (p53). 3 Going for some retail Palaphita Kitch (p56). 2 Taking a stroll through therapy, a coffee or a movie 5 Checking out the the lush and flower-filled at Shopping da Gavea universe around us at the Jardim Botânico (p52). (p56). Planetario (p53). Make sure you also visit the

á t 0 1 km i e# 0 0.5 miles a m u HUMAITÁ Parque H Nacional R da Tijuca LAGOA

JARDIM uza otânico So BOTÂNICO Jardim B ira e R rre Morro da s d Av Ale Fe Saudade lê R ro xandre R Ing R Fa Av (245m) R L Borg edeiros op es de M es Q ui nta R P s acheco Leão Parque Tom Jobim 2# o R c a i o n s Morro dos â s t s e Cabritos o o P B r (385m) i io m e Parque c

d á 2# di dos it r e p Parque da a Patins E J M R v Catacumba e Lagoa Rodrigo A d LAGOA de Freitas GÁVEA s vE e p Joquei A i g 1# tá r c LAGOA Clube o Parque io B Tom Jobim Pe o ss v o 3# g de i A a r s o ê i e d qu t v r n o a e á Av enrique c t H M i R R V O th o v o # D or Sã ibeir 4 odsw A o R 5# Mári dre R R Pa a Av ranc Morro do nel F eo Cantagalo L LEBLON (202m) A v Epitácio Pessoa

For more detail of this area see Map p148 A 51 Lonely Planet’s Explore Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Accessible Top Tip Lagoa This area is one of the best to visit if you are looking Rio’s picturesque lake is the focal point of these well- for a step-free (st)roll. With heeled neighborhoods. The Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is both the Lagoa and Jardim actually a saltwater lagoon and is much utilized by cari- Botânico offering water and ocas (residents of Rio). Joggers and cyclists zip along the greenery aplenty, there’s shoreline trail by day, while the lakeside restaurants fill many opportunities for with people enjoying a meal and live music in the open wheelchair users and those air by night. This area includes the north, east and west with reduced mobility to

sides of the lake. The streets on the south side of Lagoa & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, head out and soak up Rio’s are generally considered part of Ipanema and Leblon. great outdoors. West of the lake are the botanical gardens for which the neighborhood, Jardim Botânico, is named. Here you’ll find stately palms and a variety of flowering Getting There & plants. South of the gardens is Gávea, home to Rio’s pre- mier horse-racing track and a planetarium. Aside from Away their natural attractions, these neighborhoods also have Gávea some excellent restaurants, lively nightlife and one of the Zona Sul’s best cultural centers, the Instituto Moreira Bus Centro, Flamengo and Salles. Catete (170); Ipanema Much of the development of this area is linked to the and Copacabana (571, lake, which is named Rodrigo de Freitas in honor of the 572 and 574); and Leblon Portuguese settler who made his fortune off the sug- (432, 435 and 593).

arcane fields surrounding the lake in the 16th century. g Gávea (by early Factories blighted the landscape in the 1900s, and it Metro oa 2017).

 -took much of the 20th century for the area to recover. Al though the lake is still too polluted for swimming, some wildlife has returned, and visitors might see egrets on Jardim Botânico the lookout for fish in the lake. Bus Centro, Flamengo and Catete (170); Copacabana and Ipanema (162, 570 and Local Life 584); and Leblon (512, 574 ¨Walks For a scenic hike, and for those who are able, and 584). you can take the uphill trail to Cristo Redentor (Christ Metrô na Superfície the Redeemer) in Parque Lage. A shorter trail offers Metro buses connect Bota- great views from Parque da Catacumba. Otherwise, an fogo station with Jardim accessible stroll around Jardim Botânico is a lovely way Botânico. to spend an afternoon. ¨Markets Praça Santos Dumont hosts an antiques market on Sundays and a fruit market on Fridays. ¨Nightlife Bars near Praça Santos Dumont attract a young, festive crowd during the week. 52

JARDIM BOTÂNICO HANIS /GETTY IMAGES © This exotic 137-hectare garden, with more than 8000 PRACTICALITIES plant species, was designed by order of the Prince Regent Dom João (later to become Dom João VI) in ¨¨Map p148 1808. The garden is quiet and serene on weekdays and ¨¨%021-3874-1808 blossoms with families on weekends. Highlights of a ¨¨www.jbrj.gov.br visit here include the row of palms (planted when the ¨¨Jardim Botânico 920 garden first opened), the Amazonas section, the lake ¨¨admission R$9 containing the huge Vitória Régia water lilies and the ¨¨h9am-5pm enclosed orquidário, home to 600 species of orchids. There’s an outdoor snack bar on the grounds (near a kid’s playground) and an appealing cafe just outside the main entrance. There’s also a Sensory Garden. The new visitor center shows films (in English and Portuguese) that give the history of the gardens, and has a gift shop that sells unique crafts and souvenirs, such as shirts made of bamboo and bowls with pre-Columbian designs made from banana fibers. The easiest way to visit the Botanical Garden Park is by private transport or taxi. There are four parking spaces reserved for people with disabilities, and taxis and private cars are allowed to enter the gardens so that people with disabilities can disembark. The pathways are both spacious and flat, making for easy movement. In some places, however, there are tree roots and irregularities, as you would expect in a botanical garden. The park offers electric buggies exclusively for use by people over 60, people with disabilities and their companion, and pregnant women. Booking is free and should be done at the visitor center during opening hours. There are also three accessible bathrooms. The Sensory Garden has tactile flooring and signage throughout, including some signs in Braille. Elsewhere in the gardens, there is no tactile signage. All signs are in Portuguese and English. A sign-language interpreter is also available at the gardens at certain times. 53 1 SIGHTS access throughout, the Planetarium is a great choice for those with reduced mobil- ity (although wheelchair users may have to 1 sit in the auditorium aisles during some Gávea shows). No equipment is available for those PARQUE DA CIDADE PARK with visual impairments, although a tele- (%021-2512-2353; www.rio.rj.gov.br/cultura; phone with text transcription is available Estrada de Santa Marinha 505; h8am-5pm Tue- for those with hearing impairments. Sun) On the outer reaches of Gávea, this lush park of native Mata Atlantica rainforest and replanted secondary forest provides a 1 Jardim Botânico

refreshing escape from the heavy traffic on & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, nearby Rua Marques de São Vicente. Local JARDIM BOTÂNICO GARDENS residents come here to jog, go for long walks See p52. with their dogs and let their kids run about MUSEU DO MEIO AMBIENTE MUSEUM at the large playground. A hiking trail con- Map p148 (Environmental Museum; %021- nects the park with Solar da Imperatriz, an 2294-6619; Jardim Botânico 1008; h9am-5pm 18th-century colonial building that is today Tue-Sun) F part of a school for horticultural studies, Situated just outside the en- near Jardim Botânico; it’s best to go with trance to the botanical gardens, the Museu a local who knows the way as the path isn’t do Meio Ambiente houses temporary, envi- well marked and the danger of assault is an ronmentally focused exhibits. unlikely but serious consideration. The trail Recent refurbishment works have made starts near the small waterfall. The park all entrances accessible to wheelchair users. also has a small chapel, and a 19th-century There are ramps and handrails aplenty. The museum is set over two floors with a large colonial mansion and museum that remain g closed for renovations. elevator (with Braille buttons) accessing oa them both. Bathrooms are fully refurbished

No specific accessibility features exist in S the park, and unmarked trails and paths and adapted, and real thought has gone ig h into enhancing the experiences of all visi-

can prove difficult to follow. It’s worth go- ts ing if you have a companion, fancy a break tors. Staff speak English, and some exhibi- from Rio’s bustle and are already in the tions have Braille descriptions, too. Audio area, but it might otherwise prove hard content has Portuguese subtitles and inter- work and tricky to navigate. preters are sometimes available to translate into Brazilian Sign Language. PLANETÁRIO PLANETARIUM Map p148 (%021-2274-0046; www.planetario dorio.com.br; Av Padre Leonel Franca 240; adult/ 1 Lagoa child R$12/6, incl cúpula session R$24/12; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 2:30-5pm Sat & oLAGOA RODRIGO DE FREITAS LAKE Sun) Gávea’s stellar attraction, the Plan- (Map p148) One of the city’s most picturesque etário features a museum, a praça dos tel- spots, Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is encircled escópios (telescopes’ square) and a couple of by a 7.2km walking and cycling path. Bikes state-of-the-art operating cúpulas (domes), and paddle boats are available for hire each capable of projecting more than 6000 from stands along the east side of the lake. stars onto its walls. Forty-minute sessions For those who prefer caipirinhas (cocktail in the domes take place on weekends and made from limes, sugar, ice and high-proof holidays. Visitors can also take a peek sugarcane alcohol) to plastic swan boats, at the night sky through the telescopes the lakeside kiosks on either side of the lake on Wednesdays from 7:30pm to 8:30pm offer alfresco food and drinks, sometimes (6:30pm to 7:30pm from June to August). accompanied by live music on warm nights. The modern Museu do Universo (Universe Keep an eye out for capybaras, which can Museum) houses sundials, a Foucault’s Pen- sometimes be spotted munching (or swim- dulum and other permanent exhibitions, ming) near the shoreline. Dusk is the best plus temporary displays. time to find them. For information on ac- With free parking close to the attraction, cessibility features, see p32. accessible bathrooms and full wheelchair 54 PARQUE DA CATACUMBA PARK open-air spot fills with the din of conversa- Map p148 (%021-2247-9949; www.parquedacat tion and the aroma of freshly poured chope. acumba.com.br; Av Epitácio Pessoa; h8am-5pm As the evening wanes, a younger crowd Tue-Sun) On the edge of the Lagoa Rodrigo takes over drinking late into the night. de Freitas, across a busy road, this park and With a ramped entrance, English and sculptural garden has a short but steep trail Braille menus and English-speaking staff, to the Mirante do Sacopã lookout, which Braseiro da Gávea is up there in terms of offers memorable views from a height of accessibility. However, the bathrooms, al- 130m above Lagoa. It’s a 15-minute walk beit step-free, may prove too small for most along a 600m forest-lined path. For a bit wheelchair users. more excitement, you can scale a rock- climbing wall, go rappelling (abseiling) or GUIMAS BRAZILIAN $$$ Gávea, Jardim Botânico & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, take a treetop walk offered by Lagoa Aven- Map p148 (%021-2259-7996; José Roberto Mac- turas (p57). edo Soares 5; mains R$55-80; hnoon-1am) An Accessible parking spots are available. upscale carioca boteco (small open-air bar) Pavements are smooth but lowered curbs with creative flair, Guimas has been going can be tough to find. Ramps are of a suit- strong for more than 30 years. Winning able gradient, and handrails are installed at dishes include the bacalhau à bras (cod- difficult parts along the trails. Bathrooms, fish mixed with potatoes, eggs and onions), of any kind, are not available. Tactile sig- shrimp risotto and the juicy picanha wessel nage is inconsistently available throughout; (grilled rump steak). There’s outdoor seat- no other equipment exists for those who are ing in front. visually or hearing impaired. To enter Guimas, there is one moderately large step and no ramp. There are, however, tables outside. Staff speak English and both English and Braille menus are available. g

oa 5 EATING There is a small step to enter the bathroom,

which has no specific accessibility features,

E The open-air restaurants around the

ating but is large enough for a wheelchair user to peaceful Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas are enter and turn. big draws. On warm evenings music fills the air as diners eat, drink and enjoy the views across the water. The hot spots 5 for drinking and dining are at the Parque Jardim Botânico dos Patins on the west side, where some LA BICYCLETTE FRENCH $$ places host live music, and Parque do Map p148 (Jardim Botânico 1008; sandwiches Cantagalo on the east side. R$18-33; h8:30am-6pm Tue & Wed, to 8pm Thu- Gávea has a few dining and drinking Sun; Wv) Just outside the entrance to the spots around Praça Santos Dumont, botanical gardens (but inside the gates off while Jardim Botânico’s thickest the busy roadway), La Bicyclette whips up concentration of eateries is on Rua JJ creative sandwiches (named after French Seabra and Rua Pacheco Leão. neighborhoods), hearty quiches, salads and Unless otherwise noted, the following do desserts. It’s set in a lovely colonial build- not have accessibility features for those ing and has outdoor seating on a peaceful with hearing or visual impairments. veranda. There’s a second location on the north side of the botanical gardens. 5 Outdoor seating provides accessibility Gávea for this charming place, with accessible bathrooms nearby in the botanical gardens. BRASEIRO DA GÁVEA BRAZILIAN $$ Some staff speak English, although no Eng- Map p148 (%021-2239-7494; www.braseiroda lish menu is currently available. gavea.com.br; Praça Santos Dumont 116; sand- wiches around R$20, mains for 2 people R$50- JOJÖ CAFE $$ 110; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) This Map p148 (%021-3565-9007; www.jojocafe. family-style eatery serves large portions com.br; Pacheco Leão 812; mains R$35-55; of its popular linguiça (garlicky pork sau- h6pm-2am Tue-Fri, 1pm-1am Sat, to 8pm Sun) sage) appetizers, picanha (rump steak) and This small, charming neighborhood cafe galetos (grilled chicken). On weekends the and bistro on a peaceful corner in Jardim 55 Botânico serves up delectable salads, pas- ARAB DA LAGOA MIDDLE EASTERN $$ tas and Asian-inspired dishes such as Thai Map p148 (%021-2540-0747; www.restaurante chicken curry. There are a handful of side- arab.com.br; Av Borges de Medeiros, Parque dos walk tables. Oyster lovers should come on Patins; mains R$35-60; h9am-1:30am) This is Thursdays during happy hour, when oys- one of the lake’s most popular outdoor res- ters arrive fresh from Santa Catarina. taurants. It serves up traditional Middle With tables outside, this is a great step- Eastern specialties such as hummus, baba free option for many. There is, however, a ghanoush, tabouleh, kibbe and tasty thin- small step to the bathroom inside. Despite crust pizzas. The large platters for two or being small, the bathroom is regularly used more are good for sampling a tasty variety. by wheelchair users dining at less accessi- During the day it’s a peaceful refuge from ble restaurants across the road, so it may the city, while at night you can hear live Gávea, Jardim Botânico & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, well be a suitable option. Staff speak Eng- samba, choro (romantic, intimate samba) lish, although no English menu is available. or jazz from 9pm on weekdays, and 7pm on Saturdays and Sundays. The restaurant is popular, and therefore 5 Lagoa can get cramped as the tables are placed close together. However, if asked, staff will LAGOON BRAZILIAN $$ reserve a table around the edge of the res- Map p148 (%021-2529-5300; www.lagoon.com. taurant for those with limited mobility. The br; Av Borges de Medeiros 1424; mains R$35-75; entrance is flat via the park, and there are hnoon-2am) This lakefront eating and en- English menus. tertainment complex houses a handful of Around the back of the restaurant is the restaurants, as well as a cinema, a bar and a park’s accessible bathroom, with a gated live-music venue. The best tables are on the entrance instead of a turnstile. There are 2nd floor, and offer photogenic views over no rails, but the bathroom is large enough g the lake. Italian, seafood, bistro fare and for both front and side transfer onto the toi- oa

traditional Brazilian cooking are among let. It is free to use for customers of the res- D rinking the options. No matter where you sit, you taurant (ask a waiter for a ticket to open the can order from any of the menus. gate), or pay R$2 if you don’t plan to have a The entrance is step-free, and the restau- drink, lunch or dinner. rant runs over two floors, with an elevator (with Braille buttons) taking people up to &N the tables with a view. Staff speak English, and menus in English and Braille are avail- 6 DRINKING & ig h able. There’s also a large accessible bath- NIGHTLIFE tlife room for wheelchair users. Gávea has one of Rio’s liveliest drinking LA CARIOCA CEVICHERIA PERUVIAN $$ spots for young people: Baixo Gávea, Map p148 (%021-2226-8821; Maria Angélica 113; near Praça Santos Dumont. The bars sharing plates R$30-37; h6:30pm-1am Mon-Fri, here almost always draw a crowd, from 1pm Sat & Sun) On a peaceful tree-lined with imbibers spilling onto the plaza street, La Carioca is an excellent spot for ce- most nights. Jardim Botânico has a viche and other Peruvian hits. It has anoth- youthful population that comes out en er, equally charming branch in Ipanema masse to the bars along Rua JJ Seabra. (Map p142; %021-2522-8184; Garcia d’Ávila 173; Meanwhile, the lakeside kiosks offer a sharing plates R$30-37; h6:30pm-1am Mon-Fri, more sedate experience, with couples from 1pm Sat & Sun). gathering for live music against the There is one step at the entrance, howev- backdrop of Lagoa and Cristo Redentor. er, very helpful staff are quick to help those Unless otherwise noted, the following who may need it. Staff also speak English, do not have accessibility features and English menus are available. There is for those with hearing or visual one other step into the bathroom, which is impairments. very small and only suitable for those who can weight-bear. 56 BAR LAGOA BOTECO 6 Gávea Map p142 (%021-2523-1135; Av Epitácio Pessoa 1674; hnoon-2am) With a view of the lake, HIPÓDROMO BAR past a busy road, Bar Lagoa is one of the Map p148 (Praça Santos Dumont 108; hnoon- neighborhood’s classic haunts. Founded 1am) In an area more commonly referred to in 1935, this open-air spot hasn’t changed as Baixo Gávea, Hipódromo is one of sev- all that much since then: the bar still has eral bars responsible for the local residents’ surly waiters serving excellent beer to ever- chronic lack of sleep. Most nights you’ll find crowded tables and, in spite of its years, a a college-age and twentysomething crowd youthful air pervades. celebrating here, with patrons spilling onto To enter, there are a couple of steps, but the facing Praça Santos Dumont. there is also a permanent ramp for wheel- Gávea, Jardim Botânico & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, The entrance to the Hipodromo is step- chair users. There are menus in English and free. The bathroom is small with no hand- Braille, and the bathroom is step-free but rails. Staff don’t speak English but there is incredibly small – only really of any use if an English menu available. you are able to transfer, and possibly walk slightly. 6 Jardim Botânico

BAR DO HORTO BAR 7 SHOPPING Map p148 (%021-3114-8439; Pacheco Leão 780; Aside from a few scattered shops, hnoon-2am Tue-Sun) Colorful Bar do Horto there isn’t much of a shopping scene is one of Jardim Botânico’s most charming in Jardim Botânico or Lagoa. Residents bars. The decor is festive and kitsch: walls from the neighborhood typically head are covered with shimmering fabric and g to Ipanema, Leblon or to the huge oa the interior is festooned with brightly hued Shopping da Gávea mall to satisfy their

paper lanterns, butterfly appliqués, bottle- Sh retail cravings. On weekends, however, cap curtains and other recycled ephemera. an interesting market on the Praça opping At night the sidewalk tables gather a festive Santos Dumont (see p26) makes a crowd that comes for cocktails and good journey here worthwhile. cheer. For an outdoor drink and to soak up the O SOL HANDICRAFTS atmosphere, Bar do Horto is great. Howev- Map p148 (%021-2294-6198; Corcovado 213, Jar- er, it runs over two floors with no elevator dim Botânico; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) O to the upstairs bathroom. Sol is run by Leste-Um, a nonprofit social- welfare organization. This delightful store displays the works of regional artists and 6 Lagoa sells Brazilian folk art in clay, wood and porcelain. It also sells baskets, hammocks oPALAPHITA KITCH LOUNGE and woven rugs. Map p148 (%021-2227-0837; www.palaphita A side entrance has a wooden ramp, kitch.com.br; Av Epitácio Pessoa s/n; h6pm-1am) although the shop is over two floors with A great spot for a sundowner, Palaphita no elevator. The staff, however, are delight- Kitch is an open-air, thatched-roof wonder- ful, and bring stock down the stairs for land with rustic bamboo furniture, flicker- customers with disabilities. Not ideal, but ing tiki torches and a peaceful setting on worth a look if you are in the area. the edge of the lake. This is a popular spot with couples, who come for the view and SHOPPING DA GÁVEA SHOPPING CENTER the creative (but pricey) cocktails: the caip- Map p148(%021-2294-1096; Marquês de São Vi- irinhas, made from unusual fruits from the cente 52, Gávea; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Northeast and Amazonia, are a hit. Sun) Shopping da Gávea touts itself as the An accessible but dimly lit spot, Palaph- preferred mall of artists and intellectuals, ita Kitch is flat, with pathways made from which may or may not matter to you when packed earth and wooden walkways. The you’re laying down serious cash for those bathroom is easily accessible. Some staff sneakers. It’s home to 200 stores, a five- speak English, although there are no Eng- screen cinema, several theaters and numer- lish menus. 57 ous restaurants, including La Pastaciutta, SPORTS & which serves tasty pastas and appetizers. 2 A medium-gradient ramp leads to the ACTIVITIES entrance of the mall, and elevators with LAGOA AVENTURAS ADVENTURE SPORTS ‘preferential’ signs for those with disabili- Map p148 (%021-4105-0079; www.lagoaaven ties, pregnant women and the elderly take turas.com.br; Av Epitácio Pessoa 3000; zipline visitors to all floors. The elevators also have R$20, climbing wall R$25, treetop walk R$35, rap- Braille buttons and assistants on hand to pelling R$130; h9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sun) Lo- help visitors. Tactile flooring, however, is cated in the Parque da Catacumba, across not available throughout the center. All from Lagoa, this is a fine place to come for shops and restaurants in the center are ac- outdoor adventures. You can get a workout cessible, and each floor of the center has an

scaling a 7m rock-climbing wall, take a zip- & La Botânico Jardim Gávea, accessible toilet. line ride, rappel (abseil) down a rock face The cinema on the 4th floor has a ticket or take a canopy walk through the treetops. office at a reasonably low height, and you Kids aged four years and up are welcome. can buy half-price tickets if you have an Call directly to discuss your own individ- impairment. Be careful in the walkways ual access needs. A member of staff at your to each cinema screen; they are very dark accommodations will help if Portuguese is with no handrails to assist. Try to watch not a strong point. films in screens one and two if possible; to access screens three and four there is a less- JOQUEI CLUBE HORSE RACING reliable motorised chair lift to take you up Map p148 (%021-3534-9000; www.jcb.com.br; a flight of stairs. Any audio descripton in Jardim Botânico 1003, Gávea; h6-10pm Mon the cinema is in Portuguese, and all subti- & Fri, 2-9pm Sat & Sun) One of the country’s tles (for mostly English films) are in Portu- loveliest racetracks, with a great view of guese. There is an excellent accessible toilet

the mountains and Corcovado, the Joquei g in the cinema with handrails and room for Clube (Jockey Club) seats 35,000. It lies on oa

both side and front transfer. the Gávea side of the Lagoa Rodrigo de Frei- S

No hearing loops or other equipment are tas, opposite Praça Santos Dumont. Local ports available in Shopping da Gavea. race fans are part of the attraction – it’s a different slice of Rio life. Tourists are wel-

ISABELA CAPETO CLOTHING come in the members’ area, which has a bar &A Map p148 (%021-2537-3331; Alberto Ribeiro 17, overlooking the track. Races are held on Jardim Botânico; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) One Mondays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. ctivities of Brazil’s fashion stars, Isabela Capeto The big event is the Brazilian Grand Prix creates beautifully made clothing with se- (the first Sunday in August). ductive lines. Many of her pieces are em- The club’s events area has a ramped en- broidered and feature vintage lace, sequins trance, with elevators up to the two floors or fabric trims. This shop is a good place to that are open to the public. No Braille but- see dresses and skirts that have earned her tons are available within the elevators, al- accolades from O Globo, Vogue and other though porters are on hand to help. The publications. bathrooms are fully accessible and English There’s a small step at the entrance; with menus are available. There is nothing to aid help, a wheelchair user could enter this those with hearing impairments. single-level store. Fitting rooms are spa- cious enough for a wheelchair but not spe- cifically adapted. Staff do not speak English and although there is a bathroom, it is not wheelchair-accessible. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 58

Copacabana & Leme COPACABANA | LEME

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Soaking up the sun- 2 Exploring the Forte de 4 Eating with locals and shine on Copacabana Copacabana (p61) and tourists alike at Leme’s Beach (p60), followed taking in the view across Joaquina (p65). by a meal at an oceanfront the beach. 5 Listening to samba jam eatery. 3 Getting your rock and sessions at Bip Bip (p66). roll on at Mud Bug (p66).

o r Praia HUMAITÁ o s lid o Vermelha Baía de á Po am 4 t lva1 1 1ral 1 R Guanabara i e Si ne aro a de d 1 1 Ge1 1 1 lv m iscon R Á u R V 1 1 1 1 R e H 1 C1emit1ério1 São1 m R e T 1 Joã1o B1atist1a L ú

o n 4 1 1 1 1 1 e d LEME000 l 1001001 001 000000000000 000000000000 a N o 00000000000000r00000000000av00000 1 01001 001 001 0000000i 0000o000000s0t 00000 e Gu io 0000000000000000000v 000R0 00pa00000 00000000000000d 00000o 00000m00000 0R 0000000000000a 000000000Sa000000 0000000000000L0000000000000000 LAGOA F 44# 44 0i0g 0000000000000000004000000000 00u 000000000o 000000000000000000 00e00000000er000000000000000e 0000 00i0000000e0l 00000000000000em00000 000re 00000o0n 0000e 0000000000 L00h)0000 000d0000 0T 0000a d0000000000 do00ac00000 Ponta 000o0000R0000oss00a03#000000a0ia00 B0e 00000 0R000d 00000v0 N00ba0n 0000000Pr00me0000000 do Leme 00 S 00e00000A 00ac0a 000a 000000Le00000000 400a0040M 000400op0004t0ic0004000(00400000400 n a C 000t 00g00000000ân0000000000000000 000a 000a 000000tl00000000000000000 000 0C 00lh 00000A000000000000000000 Parque da 0000l 00ã00000v 000000000000000000 COPACAB0AN0A00a000e 000A0000000000000000000 Catacumba 00000ra 00s 0000000000000000000000 R00000000000000000000000000000 A 40C 000400004010#00040000400000400000400 v E 0o0n 000000000000000000000000000 pit 0R 0st000000000000000000000000000 ác 0a0m 0an00000000000000000000000000 io 00o00te 0000000000000000000000000 P 000s 00000000000000000000000000 e 00000000000000000000000000000 s 00000000000000000000000000000 R R Bo Lagoa s 0lív0ar000000000000000000000000000

o 400004000040000040000000000000000

M a 00000000000000000000000000000 Rodrigo de ig 00000000000000000000000000000 uel 00000000000000000000000000000 Freitas L0em0os000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000 000a 00000000000000000000000000 000c 00000000000000000000000000 i 45#000t 040000400000400000000000000A0TL0ANTIC 000n 00000000000000000000000000 â 00l000000000000000000000000000 00t 00000000000000000000000000OC0EAN 00A 000000000000000000000000000 R Barão da 000v 00000000000000000000000000

Torre 000A 00000000000000000000000000 R Viscon 400004000040000040000000000000000 de de Piraj 00000000000000000000000000000 á 0000020#00000000000000000000000 0000000000Po0nt0a d0e0000000000000000 4A4v Vieira S4outo 44000040000400Co0pa0ca0b4a0na000000000000000 Praia de Diabo e# 0 1 km Ponta do 0 0.5 miles 4444Arpoado4r 4 For more detail of this area see Map p146 A 59 Lonely Planet’s Explore Copacabana & Leme Accessible Top Tip With the construction of the neoclassical Copacabana Make sure you enjoy a Palace hotel in 1923, Copacabana – and Rio – became (st)roll from Ipanema to South America’s most elegant destination, one frequent- Leme on a Sunday, when ed by international celebrities. Copacabana remained half of the road is pedestri- Rio’s untarnished gem until the 1970s, when the area anized and families come fell into decline. Today’s Copa is a chaotic mix of dis- out in force to make the count stores and noisy traffic-filled avenues, with a hum- most of the space. When ming red-light district and slightly edgy streets. While you need a break, sip an paradise it clearly is not, the beach remains beautiful. agua de côco (coconut Framed by mountains and deep blue sea, the magnifi- water) at one of the many cent curve of shoreline stretches more than 4km. kiosks lining the beach. Packing the beach are sun-worshippers of every age Hotels along Avenida Atlan- and background, from favela (slum, informal commu- tica, the main beach strip, nity) kids to aging socialites, from tourists to families provide some of the best from the Zona Norte. Copacabana’s democratic mix, rooftop views in Rio (and are Copa old-school botecos (small open-air bars), eclectic restau- great for nipping into when you need an accessible rants and nightclubs, myriad shops and, of course, the c handsome shoreline still entrance many visitors. While bathroom). Leme & abana the cool kids cling to Ipanema and Leblon, Copacabana seems poised on the edge of a renaissance. Its glassy kiosks have brought class to the neighborhood, while Getting There & Baixo Copa has become a nightlife destination. Away The small neighborhood of Leme, just northeast of Bus Ipanema (161 and 573),

Copacabana (Av Princesa Isabel divides the two), has

 ,(Leblon (161, 511 and 583 a village feel, with its mix of old-timers, upper-middle- Gávea (161 and 583), Jardim class families and favela residents. The lack of major Botânico (161, 573 and 583) roads through Leme creates a more peaceful vibe, and and Centro (121, 123 and the oceanfront restaurants make for a more relaxing set- 124). ting for a drink than the buzzing Copacabana strip. Metro Cardeal Arcoverde, Siqueira Campos, Canta- galo and Ipanema/General Local Life Osório. ¨Markets Copacabana has a handful of weekly produce markets held at various locales. ¨Hangouts One of Copacabana’s liveliest areas for a drink is Baixo Copa, a bar- and restaurant-lined strip just back from Ave Atlântica around Rua Domingos Ferreira and Barão de Ipanema. ¨Activities Don’t miss Praia Para Todos (p28) if you have time to spare on the weekend. Copacabana will suddenly become so much more accessible. COPACABANA BEACH JOHN W BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES © A magnificent confluence of land and sea, the long, DON’T MISS... scalloped beach of Copacabana extends for some 4km, with a flurry of activity along its length: over- ¨¨Stand-up paddle amped soccer players singing their team’s anthem; boarding across the cariocas (residents of Rio) and tourists lining up for sea. caipirinhas at kiosks; favela kids showing off their ¨¨Evening drinks at a soccer skills; and beach vendors shouting out their beachfront kiosk. wares among the tanned beach bodies. ¨¨A Sunday run, walk Each group stakes out its stretch of sand. The area be- or bike ride along the tween the Copacabana Palace hotel and Rua Fernando beach boulevard. Mendes is the gay and cross-dressing section, known as the Stock or Stock Market – easily recognized by the rain- bow flag. Young football and futevôlei (soccer volleyball) PRACTICALITIES players hold court near Rua Santa Clara. Postos 5 and 6 ¨¨Map p146 are a mix of favela kids and carioca retirees, while the ¨¨Av Atlântica spot next to Forte de Copacabana is the colônia dos pes- cadores (fishermen’s colony). As Copacabana Beach curves north you get into the quieter sands of Leme (Av Princesa Isabel forms the demarcation between the two neighborhoods). Here you’ll find a mix of older Leme residents as well as kids from the nearby favelas of Babilônia and Chapeu Mangueira. The beach is lit at night and there are police in the area, but it’s still not wise to walk there after dark – stay near the liveliest beach kiosks when venturing out. Av NS de Copacabana is also sketchy – watch out on weekends, when the shops are closed and there are few locals around. For information on accessibility, see p31. 61 1 SIGHTS FORTE DUQUE DE CAXIAS FORT Map p145 (Forte do Leme; %021-3223-5076; COPACABANA BEACH BEACH Praça Almirante Júlio de Noronha; adult/child See p60. R$4/free; h9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sun) More commonly known as Forte do Leme, this MUSEU DO IMAGEM E SOM MUSEUM military base is open to the public. Visi- Map p146 (www.mis.rj.gov.br; Av Atlântica, near tors can walk to the top of Morro do Leme Miguel Lemos) Copacabana finally has an (Leme Mountain) along a steep 800m trail outstanding rainy-day attraction, thanks to that passes through Atlantic rainforest. At the stunning Museum of Image and Sound, the top stands an 18th-century fort afford- which is due to open in late 2016. The build- ing magnificent views of Pão de Açúcar ing, designed by celebrated New York firm (Sugarloaf Mountain) and the Cagarras Diller Scofidio + Renfro (who also designed Islands. NYC’s High Line), will feature high-tech The fort has no accessibility features, so interactive galleries devoted to the great is no good for those who have limited mo- Brazilian music and film that has played bility or are wheelchair users. such a pivotal role in the nation’s culture.

Performance halls and an open-air rooftop BAIRRO PEIXOTO AREA Copa amphitheater (for outdoor films) are other Map p146 (Anita Garibaldi) A world away from

highlights. The museum also contains a the bustle of Copacabana’s busy avenues, c gallery devoted to Carmen Miranda. You the Bairro Peixoto is a peaceful enclave cen- Leme & abana can peek at photographs, hear music, watch tered on the leafy Praça Edmundo Bitten- a few film clips and check out the over-the- court. There you’ll find a playground, park top garments that once belonged to the fa- benches and tables where folks play domi- mous starlet from Brazil (never mind that noes and read the paper, all of which seems Miranda was actually born in Portugal). to lend the setting more of a village-like air The Museum was closed for works at the than that of a big-city neighborhood. You time of writing; contact them to discuss ac- might even see a few marmosets up in the Si ghts cessibility (or ask someone at your accom- trees. There’s also an outdoor gym, with modations to help you). certain bits of equipment adapted for peo- ple with disabilities. FORTE DE COPACABANA FORT Map p146 (%021-2521-1032; Av Atlântica & Rua Francisco Otaviano; adult/child R$6/free; h10am-7:30pm Tue-Sun) Built in 1914 on the 5 EATING promontory of the old Our Lady of Co- pacabana chapel, the fort of Copacabana Rio’s most visited neighborhood has was one of Rio’s premier defenses against an enormous variety of restaurants, attack. You can still see its original fea- from award-winning dining rooms to tures, including walls that are up to 12m charming old bistros from the 1950s, thick, defended by Krupp cannons. Inside as well as creperies, churrascarias is a museum with several floors of exhibits (traditional barbecue restaurants), tracing the early days of the Portuguese col- sushi bars and other ethnic haunts. ony through to the mid-19th century. Some In general, you will encounter less signage and descriptions are bilingual. The experimentation, but if you’re looking views out across the full length of Copaca- for excellent traditional cuisine – both bana are striking. Brazilian and international – you will Although the fort is old and has no acces- find plenty of delectable options in sibility features, the ground in and around Copacabana. it is mostly flat, with the odd step leading The restaurant strip along Av Atlântica to separate parts of the building. The main has fine views of the seaside, but problem, however, is getting there. It’s a generally unexceptional food. The long, cobbled walk (or push) to the fort, and narrow roads crisscrossing Av NS de the heat can be unforgiving. Cafes with ac- Copacabana from Leme to Arpoador cessible outdoor seating and table service contain many fine establishments – line the way, though, so it is possible to sit and many mediocre ones. Do some and have a coffee while taking in the in- exploring; trust your instincts and bom credible views of Copacabana and beyond. proveito (happy eating). 62 Unless otherwise noted, the following and a low-gradient ramp leading inside, do not have accessibility features Bibi Sucos is a spacious accessible option. for those with hearing or visual English menus are available, with white impairments. text on coloured backgrounds. There are two cubicle toilets with flat access but no handrails. They are only really suitable for 5 Copacabana those with reduced mobility who can trans- fer onto the front of the toilet with ease. GALETO SAT’S BRAZILIAN $ Map p146 (%021-2275-6197; Barata Ribeiro 7; oEL BORN SPANISH $$ mains R$18-26; hnoon-5am) One of Rio’s Map p146 (%021-3496-1780; www.barelborn. best roast-chicken spots, laid-back Galeto com.br; Bolívar 17; tapas R$15-40; h5pm-2am Sat’s has earned many fans since its open- Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat & Sun) Named after Bar- ing back in 1962. Grab a seat along the celona’s hippest, foodie-loving neighbor- mirrored-and-tiled wall, order a chope hood, El Born fires up some of Rio’s best (draft beer) and enjoy the scent of grilled tapas plates: think Galician-style octopus, spit-roasted birds before tucking into a spicy prawns and tender Iberian ham. The Copa filling meal. Price-wise, you can’t beat the setting channels a bit of old-world Spain, R$50 feast for two. with rustic stone and brick walls, outdoor

c There’s one small step into Galeto Sat’s, tables on the sidewalk and ample bar seat- abana & Leme & abana and the restaurant is both narrow and pop- ing – the latter is a fine spot for watching ular – possibly not the best mix for a wheel- the dexterous bartenders in action. Don’t chair user. Staff will do their best to make order too much. Waiters emerge from the one of the 11 tables accessible to guests with kitchen and make the rounds with freshly disabilities if they are warned in advance. cooked tapas plates; if you see something The bathroom is small. you like, take it.

A single step leads inside, and wheel- E BRAZILIAN at CERVANTES $ chair users may benefit from some assis- % i ng Map p146 ( 021-2275-6147; Barata Ribeiro 7; tance, which staff and locals alike are all sandwiches R$15-30; hnoon-4am Tue-Thu & too happy to give. There is a larger-than- Sun, to 6am Fri & Sat) A Copacabana institu- average bathroom that is step-free but not tion, this late-night spot gathers cariocas specifically adapted for those with disabili- who come to feast on Cervantes’ trademark ties. Staff speak English and both English steak and pineapple sandwiches. This pop- and Braille menus are available. ular branch on busy Barata Ribeiro attracts a mostly standing-room-only crowd. For SANTA SATISFAÇÃO BRAZILIAN $$ the sit-down restaurant, head a few steps Map p146 (%021-2255-9349; www.santa around the corner to Av Pradio Junior 335. satisfacao.com; Santa Clara 36C; mains R$27-46; Cervantes is long and narrow but acces- h10am-10:45pm Mon-Sat) It’s worth forking sible for a wheelchair user, with help. The out a bit extra for the outstanding daily bathroom is not adapted, but is possible to lunch specials of upscale Brazilian comfort use for those able to weight-bear and trans- food and sophisticated sandwiches at this fer with little space. always-packed bistro. Among the favorites: pasta with gorgonzola and sliced filet mi- BIBI SUCOS BRAZILIAN $ gnon, caprese salad, and an open-faced Map p146 (%021-2513-6000; Rua Miguel Lemos ham and brie sandwich. 31; mains R$18-36; h8am-12am Sun-Thu, to 1am There’s one step to get in, and the bath- Fri & Sat) Offering much the same recipe room is typically small and unadapted. for success as its Leblon branch (Map p144; Accessible outdoor seating is available. %2259-4298; www.bibisucos.com.br; Av Ataúlfo There’s an English menu, although staff are de Paiva 591A; juices R$6-15; h8am-1am), Bibi not confident English speakers. serves dozens of juices, along with savory and sweet crepes, sandwiches, burgers, pas- LE BLÉ NOIR FRENCH $$ tas, quiches and build-your-own salads. It Map p146 (%021-2267-6969; Xavier da Silveira has outdoor tables and a bustling vibe. Go 19A; crepes R$40-70; h7:30pm-midnight) Flick- early or late to beat the lunchtime crowds. ering candles, art-filled walls and chatter- With an accessible pedestrian crossing ing crowds set the scene for feasting on directly next to the outdoor seating area, Rio’s best crepes. Le Blé Noir offers more 63

MORRO DA BABILÔNIA Scattered across the hillsides above Leme are two small favelas (slums, informal communities) that lie side by side: Babilônia to the west (left side) and Chapéu Mangueira to the east (right side). These informal communities, home to about 4000 residents, have become a magnet for visitors since pacification arrived in 2009. Today in the area there are more than half-a-dozen hostels, simple bars and eateries with amazing views (and great cocktails), and a mountaintop rainforest preserve. As you walk up to the favelas, you can also check out the Mural de Babilônia, a breathtaking Gaudi-esque mosaic that covers a long sweeping wall (140 sq meters) near the bottom of the hill. The work was created by two artists from the Czech Republic who go by the names of X-Dog and Plebe, along with the help of dozens of volunteers. Access to the favelas is via Ladeira Ary Barroso, off Rua General Ribeiro da Costa in Leme. If you don’t feel like hoofing it, you can also take a mototaxi from here to the top. To make the most of a visit to Babilônia favela, you can take a walking tour offered

by Jungle Me (%021-4105-7533; www.jungleme.com.br; tours from R$150) or Rio by Bike Copa (%021-96871-8933; www.riobybike.com; tours R$100-125). Wheelchair users may find access to the favelas difficult. If you’re interested in taking a tour of the area, it’s best c

to call in advance to discuss your needs. Leme & abana Here are a few favela locales for eating and drinking: Bar do David (Map p145; Ladeira Ary Barroso 66; appetizers R$20-30, mains around R$35; h8am-10pm Tue-Sun) Located in Chapéu Mangueira favela, this simple open-sided eatery serves excellent snacks. The chef and owner David Vieira Bispo was formerly a fisherman, and his seafood feijoada (stew with rice) is outstanding – but available

weekends only. At other times, you can nibble on seafood croquetes, garlic shrimp, E

sausage with manioc, and other hits that go nicely with a caipirinha or two. at

Bar do Alto (Map p145; Ladeira Ary Barroso 57; h1-10pm Wed-Sun) High up in the Ba- i ng bilônia favela, this friendly place has jaw-dropping views over Copacabana. It’s an open-sided affair, with cool breezes, flickering candles on the tables, and a small menu with standouts such as fish or mixed-seafood moqueca (Bahian fish stew cooked in a clay pot with dendê oil, coconut milk and spicy peppers; around R$40), and feijoada-stuffed rolls – good for sharing. You’ll also find some intriguing cocktails such as the caipichopp, a bubbly caipirinha that goes down smoothly – never mind the green color. Estrelas da Babilônia (Map p145; Ladeira Ary Barroso; h5-11pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 3am Fri & Sat) In the uppermost reaches of the Babilônia favela, Estrelas da Babilônia has a picturesque open-air setting with an unrivaled view of the mountains and sea with the cityscape of Copacabana wedged between the two. It’s a fun and welcoming spot, run by a Colombian-Belgian couple, with a lineup of live music, film screenings and other events. It’s worth coming for the view alone. than 50 different varieties, pairing rich CAFE COLOMBO CAFE $$ ingredients such as shrimp and artichoke Map p146 (%021-3201-4049; Forte de Copaca- hearts or Brie, honey and toasted almonds. bana, Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco; mains R$24- The wait can be long (about 45 minutes on 38; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) Far removed from average). the hustle and bustle of Av Atlântica, this A portable (high-gradient) ramp is avail- cafe has magnificent views of Copacabana able to overcome the several steps leading Beach. At the outdoor tables you can sit be- inside. The bathroom is step-free but small neath shady palm trees, enjoying cappucci- and unadapted, making it only suitable nos, omelets, waffles, salads or sandwiches for those who are able to weight-bear and as young soldiers file past. To get here, transfer with ease. Staff speak English and you’ll have to pay admission (R$6) to the an English menu is on hand. Forte de Copacabana (p61). 64 Inaccessible to get into, but with some speak much English, although an English of the loveliest outdoor seating around the menu is available. fort, Cafe Colombo is a great place to sit, rest and have a sweet treat as part of the oCHURRASCARIA long, cobbled journey to, or from, Forte de PALACE CHURRASCARIA $$$ Copacabana. Map p146 (%021-2541-5898; Rodolfo Dantas 16; all you can eat R$110; hnoon-midnight) Hands ARATACA AMAZONIAN $$ down, this is one of the best churrascarias Map p146 (%021-2548-6624; Domingos Ferreira (traditional barbecue restaurants) in town. 41D; mains R$32-65; h10am-9pm) The casual, You’ll find high-quality cuts of meat and at- no-nonsense Arataca serves exotic cuisine tentive service at this elegantly set dining of the Amazon. There’s moqueca (fish stew) room. Waiters make frequent rounds with made with pirarucu (a freshwater fish), the goods; don’t be shy about saying no, pato no tucupi (roast duck flavored with otherwise you’ll end up with more than you garlic) or vatapá (a seafood dish with a could possibly eat. thick sauce of manioc paste and coconut), The entrance is totally accessible, flat all of which go nicely with real guaraná and wide. There are, however, eight steps Copa juice. to the bathrooms, although plans are being With a small step leading into the small put in place to install an elevator this year.

c restaurant inside, those with reduced mo- Staff speak English and there are English abana & Leme & abana bility may find sitting at the waited outdoor menus available. tables an easier option. The bathroom is small and not adapted, and no further ac- DON CAMILLO ITALIAN $$$ cessibility features exist, aside from an Map p146 (%021-2549-9958; Av Atlântica 3056; English menu. pastas R$40-110; hnoon-1am) This handsome- ly appointed Italian restaurant has flavor- CAPRICCIOSA PIZZA $$

ful pastas and lasagnas, as well as some E % at Map p146 ( 021-2255-2598; Domingos Fer- excellent seafood dishes. Antique tile floors, reira 187; pizzas R$50-85; h6pm-2am) i ng Like its distressed wood beams and black-and- better-known version in Ipanema (Map white photos make a nice setting, though p142; %021-2523-3394; Vinícius de Moraes 134; it’s hard to top the outdoor tables facing the small/large pizzas R$50/80; h6pm-1am), Ca- beach. For pure decadence, try the linguine pricciosa serves excellent thin-crust pizzas. with lobster, crayfish and cherry tomatoes. Several steps lead up to the entrance, A portable ramp can be put over the although a portable ramp is available. The several steps leading inside. Accessible bathroom is step-free but very small, with outdoor seating is also available. The bath- no accessibility features. It would only room is larger than most and step-free but prove useful for those who can weight-bear not specifically adapted; some wheelchair and transfer easily. Staff speak English, and users may be able to manage quite well. an English menu is available. Staff speak English and there is an English menu. MÔNACO SEAFOOD $$ Map p146 (%021-2521-0195; Miguel Lemos 18; SIMON BOCCANEGRA ITALIAN $$$ mains R$50-100, for 2 people R$70-160; h8am- Map p146 (%021-3269-4366; Aires Saldanha 98; 2am) The casual Bar Mônaco is the neigh- mains R$60-88; hnoon-1am Tue-Sat, to 10pm borhood destination for sizzling plates Sun) Named after an Italian opera, this of grilled squid, fresh cherne (grouper), overly polished wine bar and osteria is set shrimp and a mean bowl of Leão Veloso (a with reflective chandeliers, tall ceilings and rich seafood soup). Sidewalk tables provide a long wall lined with wine bottles. Come a relaxing point for a meal or a drink on a for ingredient-rich bruschettas, creative fairly untrafficked street. pastas and nicely prepared grilled meat or There’s a small step to enter, although fish plates. You can also stop in for a drink, accessible outdoor seating is available. The and relax in one of the velvet armchairs in bathroom is step-free but the doorway in front. particular is narrow and will be impossi- A (higher-gradient) fixed ramp enables ble for wheelchair users who are unable to those with limited mobility to ride over transfer or weight-bear unaided. Staff don’t the several steps leading to the entrance. A large bathroom with handrails but no 65

THE KIOSKS OF COPACABANA The quiosque (kiosk) has long been a presence on the beachfront of Rio. It’s where cold drinks and snacks are doled out to cariocas (residents of Rio) on the move, and where plastic tables and chairs provide a fine vantage point for contemplating the watery horizon. In recent years Copacabana Beach has seen a new crop of flashy ki- osks replacing the old-fashioned wooden ones. Now it’s possible to get a decent meal (the kitchens are cleverly concealed underground), an ice-cold chope (draft beer) or gourmet snacks without ever leaving the sand (although, as the kiosks are on a beach, wheelchair access can be difficult). The new kiosks are sprinkled all along Copacabana Beach, with most options roughly between Rua Siqueira Campos and the Copacabana Palace hotel. Here are a few popular ones: Globo (Map p146; Copacabana Beach, near Miguel Lemos; snacks R$8-15; h9am-midnight) Run by Brazil’s major media network, Globo has a brightly illuminated kiosk with colorful seats near the new Museu do Imagem e Som. Aside from snacks and drinks,

you can sometimes catch live programming here, such as mini concerts, televised Copa interviews and public debates.

Cantinho Cearense (Map p146; near Duvivier; appetizers R$13-35, mains for 2 people c R$63-100; h9am-midnight) A popular gathering spot, Cantinho Cearense serves up Leme & abana cold chope and plenty of satisfying snacks, as well as heartier fare from the state of Ceará, including grilled seafood with fried cassava. Espetto Carioca (Map p145; near Praça Julio de Noronha; snacks R$12-20; h8am- midnight) At the northeast end of Leme, elevated over the beach, this peacefully set kiosk serves espettos (kebabs or skewers) of vegetables, meats and cheeses, which

go nicely with drinks. Nearby, you can watch fearless carioca kids diving off the sea- E wall. There’s usually live music on weekends. at i ng further adaptations is available, and quite Avenida Atlantica is (for once) not an issue. accessible by Rio’s standards. Staff don’t Staff speak English and an English menu speak English but visitors can order from is available. an English menu. GALERIA 1618 BISTRO $$ Map p145 (%021-2295-1618; Gustavo Sampaio 5 Leme 840; mains R$48-62; hnoon-midnight) Opened by two French expats in 2006, the art-filled JOAQUINA BRAZILIAN $$ Galeria 1618 offers tender grilled meats, Map p145 (%021-2275-8569; Av Atlântica shrimp linguine and fresh bruschetta 974; mains R$34-46; h11:30am-midnight; W) plates. Inside, the design is elegant, if a lit- Joaquina has much to recommend it: a tle on the formal side, so you may prefer great ocean-facing location with outdoor to eat at one of the sidewalk tables out the seating; excellent caipirinhas that don’t front. skimp on the fresh fruit; and tasty Brazil- The entrance is ramped, and the bath- ian dishes served up at fair prices. On Sun- room is step-free and larger than average days Joaquina serves feijoada (R$34); on but not adapted. If you’re struggling, the Saturdays it’s oxtail rice (also R$34). Arrive Golden Tulip Hotel on the same street can early before it runs out. Other hits: moque- offer an accessible alternative. Staff speak ca for one, shrimp risotto and vegetarian English and there’s an English menu. stroganoff. Accessible outdoor seating enables visi- LA FIORENTINA ITALIAN $$$ tors to enjoy views of the beach and beyond, Map p145 (%021-2543-8395; Av Atlântica 458A; and a ramped entrance allows for access to mains R$42-98; h11:30am-midnight) One indoor seating, too. The bathroom is step- of Leme’s classic Italian restaurants, La free but not specifically adapted, although Fiorentina attracted Rio’s glitterati in the finding a bathroom to suit your needs on 1960s. Today, its beach-facing outdoor ta- bles draw a loyal, mostly neighborhood 66 crowd who come to feast on oysters, sea- py to help, though. The bathroom is small, food risottos and thin-crust pizzas. Try the unadapted and on the higher level. There’s Brandy Alexander – it’s divine! a menu in English. There is spacious and accessible out- side seating looking onto the beach. A MUD BUG BAR medium-gradient ramp leads inside to the Map p146 (%021-3547-8527; www.mudbug.com. restaurant and an easy-access bathroom is br; Rudolfo Dantas 16, Copacabana; h5pm-3am) available, equipped with handrails and Mud Bug is a buzzing, warmly lit sports room for side transfer. Menus in English are bar that has a rustic, all-wood interior available, and staff speak a little English. where cariocas and foreigners mingle over football games, bar bites and a broad beer selection. There’s also live music – typi- cally classic rock – on weekends. A second, 6 DRINKING & smaller Copacabana location is a few blocks NIGHTLIFE west on Rua Paula Freitas, just north of NS de Copacabana. Despite being overshadowed by younger, One of Copacabana’s more accessible Copa hipper Ipanema to the south, Copacabana bars, Mud Bug has a well-ramped entrance has seen marked improvement in its and friendly staff on hand to help. The in- nightlife offerings, boosted in part by c terior is spacious, with larger-than-average abana & Leme & abana its ocean-fronting kiosks, which make cubicle toilets proving quite accessible for a great spot for a late-afternoon drink. those who are able to transfer with ease. On the other side of the busy road are For those who can’t, it’s not ideal, but an the open-air restaurants and bars of Av accessible hotel bathroom is not far away. Atlântica, which are generally – with Staff speak a little English. a few exceptions – overpriced tourist traps. More authentic is the emerging LE BOY GAY, CLUB

D r nightlife area that some have dubbed Map p146 (%021-2513-4993; www.leboy.com.br; i

n Baixo Copa (Lower Copa), where a dozen Raul Pompéia 102, Copacabana; cover R$10-30; ki or so lively bars and restaurants are h11pm-5am Tue-Sun) Open since 1992, Le ng sprinkled along a quiet street just back Boy is Rio’s gay temple. There are theme

&Ni ghtl from Av Atlântica. To explore this area, nights with drag shows and go-go boys. head along Rua Aires Saldanha and Le Boy was shut for renovations at the Rua Domingos Ferreira, between Rua time of writing. Call to discuss accessibility, Almirante Gonçalves and Rua Constante or ask someone at your accommodations to Ramos. For something more upscale, the

i call on your behalf. fe best options are at high-end hotel bars, some of which have million-dollar views. Unless otherwise noted, the following do not have accessibility features 3 ENTERTAINMENT for those with hearing or visual oBIP BIP LIVE MUSIC impairments. Map p146 (%021-2267-9696; Almirante Gon- h PONTO DA BOSSA NOVA BAR çalves 50, Copacabana; 6pm-midnight Sun-Fri) (%021-2235-4616; Domingos Ferreira 215, Co- For years Bip Bip has been one of the city’s pacabana; hnoon-1am Sun & Mon, to 3am Tue- favorite spots to catch a live roda de samba Sat) On a lively street sprinkled with bars, (informal samba played around a table), de- this boxy, wood-lined space has a tiny out- spite it being just a storefront with a few door patio that makes a peaceful spot for battered tables. As the evening progresses sampling appetizers such as carne seca com the tree-lined neighborhood becomes the aipim (jerked beef with fried cassava) and backdrop for serious jam sessions, with mu- well-made caipirinhas. True to its name, sic and revelers spilling into the street. The there’s live bossa nova – and Música Popu- musical lineup features samba on Thurs- lar Brasileira (MPB) – from time to time. days, Fridays and Sundays, choro (short for Wheelchair users may struggle here chorinho; a romantic, intimate samba) on without a companion as entry to the Mondays and Tuesdays, and bossa nova on ground level is accessible, but there are two Wednesdays. Music kicks off around 8pm. large steps to go any further. Staff are hap- 67 Bip Bip is a tiny venue, but most of the ac- MUNDO VERDE FOOD tion happens outside. There are no accessi- Map p146 (%021-2135-4415; www.mundoverde. bility features, but it is worth a visit for the com.br; Av NS de Copacabana 1171, Copacabana; atmosphere alone if you are able to find an h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat) Brazil’s accessible bathroom elsewhere, and have a largest health-food retailer, Mundo Verde friend to go and get you a drink when bat- sells organic products including salgados tling through the crowds becomes tough. (bar snacks), jams made from Amazonian fruits, and other assorted goods. The sun- care products are usually cheaper here than in pharmacies, and probably better for your 7 SHOPPING skin. Copacabana’s shops, just like its local A fixed, higher-gradient ramp takes residents, are a diverse bunch, with customers inside. There are no bathrooms everything from cachaça (sugarcane and staff don’t speak English, although alcohol) to football jerseys on hand, good communication is possible with a few as well as shoe stores, surf shops and gestures. record stores thrown in the mix. Fashion Copa hunters will find more lower-tier labels than in neighboring Ipanema, along with

SPORTS & c lower prices to match. 2 Leme & abana Unless otherwise noted, the following ACTIVITIES do not have accessibility features RIO SAMBA DANCER DANCE for those with hearing or visual Map p146 (%021-98202-9810; www.riosamba impairments. dancer.com; Barata Ribeiro 261A, Copacabana; group/private classes R$70/150) SHOPPING SIQUEIRA English- speaking dance instructor Hélio Ricardo SHOPPING CENTER

CAMPOS S hopp offers private and group dance classes Map p146 (%021-2549-0650; Siqueira Campos in samba or forró, a popular music of the 143, Copacabana; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Northeast. To try out your new moves, sign

Sat, to 4pm Sun) One of Rio’s first malls, this i up for a samba-class and night-tour combo: ng quirky shopping mall packs an intriguing you’ll take a one-hour crash course, then mix of stores in a no-nonsense parking- head out to Lapa for a night of dancing in garage-like interior. Scattered across two a club (R$100 per person; cover charge not floors, you’ll find numerous antique shops, included). used-book and record stores, internet cafes, The entrance to both the building and the art galleries and dozens of other surprising studios is step-free and accessible. There is finds. also a step-free but very small bathroom Shopping Siqueira Campos is good for that is only really suitable for those who a unique browse if you are in the area, can weight-bear and transfer easily. Classes although it is not nearly as accessible, well- are in English, and may prove difficult for known or easy to get around as larger cent- wheelchair users. Adaptations can be made ers like Shopping Leblon (p48), Shopping to suit people with audio/visual impair- da Gavea (p56) or Rio Sul (p76). If you’re ments as necessary, for example separate, looking for a venue with a cinema and nu- private classes. merous eateries to choose from, this is not your best option. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 68

Botafogo, Humaitá & Urca BOTAFOGO & HUMAITÁ | URCA

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Gliding up to the top 2 Having a scrummy bite 4 Getting some retail of Pão de Açúcar (p70) to eat and a much-need therapy at Rio Sul (p76). by cable car for the awe- caipirinha at the renowned 5 Basking on the sands inspiring view of Rio at Cobal do Humaita (p75). of Praia Vermelha (p73), your feet. 3 Strolling between forest one of Rio’s prettiest little and sea on the peaceful beaches. Pista Cláudio Coutinho (p72). 44 R

P i Parque do n 0 1 km h # LARANJEIRAS Flamengo e 0 0.5 miles e

i r 44 o

M a Baía de c h Guanabara a e d t e o n u fa q In ri v en o s A H Parque t e e o m uís Alves Nacional r ç D o L r a s o 4a 4 44 da Tijuca a ã N B o Praia d i s Praia do J z URCA i n de Fora

o Botafogo v n d U A

u Enseada de v

M A Botafogo Praia

4R 4 4da4 Urca 41#4 nte me s l Cle e Av a o u P g ã g A S BOTAFOGO ri as tu ria 4od 4v t r4444 R át R e o Pista Cláudio a P ro L ur P d a a os lv v Coutinho ári Á u A nt f r Universidade lu o a o Vo Pr tel Pç General 3# R R uin S Federal de 2# to Q o Tibúrcio Praia Vermelha e o d Rio de Janeiro 44 rr ald a n r 5# B r é na ral R A HUMAITÁ e1 1 ne1 1 1 R M Ge 4# 1 1R 1 or1o 1 eiro lid R Pinh 1 P1o 1 1 1 res 1 1 1 1 1 44 ma Gui Cemitério A 1 1São1 Joã1o 1 v 1 1 1 1 1 P r Batista i 1 1 1 1 1 n 000 000000c 00000000L0EM0E000Pç0 A Júlio 1 1 1 1 1 000000e00000000000000 0000000s 00000000000d0e N0oronha 0000000a 000000000a 0000 0000000I 00000000tic0000 0000000s0000000ân00000 00000000a 00000t0l 00000 ATLANTIC 00000000b 0000v 0A 000000 OCEAN 00000000e 000A00000000 0400004000l00400000400004 0000000000000000000 Ponta COPACABANA 0000000000000000000do Leme 0000000000000000000 44For4 more detail4 of this4 area see Map p150 A 69 Lonely Planet’s Explore Botafogo, Humaitá & Urca Accessible Top Tip The traditional, middle-class neighborhoods of Botafogo An accessible day out and neighboring Humaitá may not have the beaches of could easily be spent in their neighbors to the south, but they don’t lack for much this area alone. Pão de else, with intriguing museums, movie theaters, quaint Açúcar (p70) provides bookshops, a shopping center, and festive, open-air bars an inclusive and interesting on tree-lined back streets. There are also a few night- experience, while shopping clubs and a boulevard dotted with old mansions. centers such as Rio Sul To the east, Urca is even more idyllic, with shaded, (p76) allow everyone to quiet streets. Its eclectic architecture includes art deco indulge in accessible retail and modernist houses backed by manicured gardens. therapy and cinema experi- Along the seawall, which forms the northwestern pe- ences. For food and drink, rimeter of Pão de Açúcar, fishermen cast for dinner as Cobal do Humaita (p75) couples lounge beneath palm trees, taking in views of provides plenty of choices, Baía de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay) and Cristo Reden- and there’s nothing quite tor (Christ the Redeemer). Tiny Praia Vermelha in the like an evening of live jazz on south marks the beginning of a pleasant walking trail the pretty, and flat, prom- and has one of Rio’s finest beach views. enade of Praia Vermelha Botafogo is named after the Portuguese settler João (p73). Pereira de Souza Botafogo and grew in importance fol- lowing the arrival of the Portuguese court in the late Botafogo, Humaitá & U 1800s. Dona Carlota Joaquina, the wife of Dom João VI, Getting There & had a country villa here, and she used to bathe in the Away Baía de Guanabara. With royalty established in the area, arriving aristocrats built many mansions, some of which Botafogo still stand as schools, theaters and cultural centers. Metro Botafogo In the 19th century, development was spurred by the construction of a tram that ran to the Jardim Botânico Urca (botanical garden), linking the bay with Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. This artery still plays a vital role in Rio’s Taxi The best option for traffic flow, though Botafogo’s main streets are now ex- those with limited mobility tremely congested. Bus Centro (107), Ipanema, rca Leblon and Copacabana

 Jardim Botânico and ,(511) Local Life Gávea (512) ¨Hangouts At Bar Urca (p74), locals sip beers and munch on appetizers along the seawall across the street, while taking in the pretty views. ¨Markets Browse the produce stands of Cobal do Humaitá (p75) by day and sample the bars by night. ¨Shopping Botafogo Praia Shopping (p76) has colorful shops, a cinema and upper-floor restaurants with great views. PÃO DE AÇÚCAR ISITSHARP /GETTY IMAGES © One of Rio’s dazzling icons, Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf DON’T MISS… Mountain) offers a vision of Rio at its most disarming. Following a steep ascent to the mountain, you’ll ¨¨Drinking caipirinhas be rewarded with superb views of Rio’s gorgeous while watching planes shoreline, and the city planted among the green land beneath you. peaks. From the summit, 395m above Rio and the Baía ¨¨Summer concerts de Guanabara, it’s quite clear why Rio is called the up top. Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). ¨¨The monkeys in the The most traditional way to reach the top is to board trees lining Morro da the two-stage cable car that departs from Urca every 20 Urca. minutes or so. The glass-and-steel cars are good fun in themselves, and ascend 215m to Morro da Urca. From here, you can see Baía de Guanabara and along the wind- PRACTICALITIES ing coastline; on the ocean side of the mountain is Praia ¨¨Map p150 Vermelha, in a small, calm bay. Morro da Urca has a res- ¨¨Sugarloaf Mountain taurant, souvenir shops, a playground, outdoor theater and a helipad. In the summer, concerts are sometimes staged ¨¨%021-2546-8400 in the amphitheater. ¨¨www.bondinho.com.br The second cable car goes up to Pão de Açúcar. At the ¨¨Av Pasteur 520, Urca top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado moun- ¨¨adult/child R$62/31 tain and Cristo Redentor off to the west, the twinkling ¨¨h8am-7:50pm lights of Niteroi across the bay to the east, and the long curve of Copacabana Beach to the south. If the breath- taking heights unsteady you, a cafe is on hand to serve caipirinhas and other drinks. There’s also a restaurant, an ice-cream shop and the obligatory souvenir shop. Those who’d rather take the long way to the top, and are able to climb, should sign up with one of the granite-hugging climbing tours offered by various outfits in Rio. Morro da Urca is much easier to climb, and if you are able to climb you can do it on your own. The short but steep path takes about 30 minutes to the top. You’ll find the unmarked trail along the Pista Cláudio Coutinho (p72).

For prime views of the Cidade Maravilhosa, go around sunset on a clear day. Pão de Açúcar is one of Rio’s most accessible attractions for wheelchair users and those with reduced mobility. The ticket office is easily accessible, with many of the operators speaking great English. Parking spaces outside the entrance are reserved for those with disabilities (including those with visual impairments) and taxis will drop you off right by the attraction itself. Several elevators will take you to the cable-car platform, with a motorized stair-climbing chair on hand if anything is out of order. Only one wheelchair will fit in each cable car, so groups may have to split up for parts of the journey. The cable cars do also swing slightly when embarking and departing, so take extra care of any possible gaps. Morro da Urca is very accessible, with the higher Pão de Açúcar having a few more stairs. It is possible, however, to get to the cafe on the higher of the sister mountains. Watch out for Via Verde, a concrete walkway through the lush vegeta- tion of the Morro da Urca, connecting the second boarding station to the lookouts and Cucuruto Museum (you might even see monkeys if you’re lucky). The flooring is flat and even; however, the guide railings are thin, unmarked steel cables, with only a single handrail, making it not the easiest of walkways for people with a visual impairment. There is no tactile flooring, either. At the halfway point there is a tree in the middle of the walkway, leaving only a narrow space for wheelchair users to pass through. Accessible bathrooms are available on-site. Staff are on hand to help, and are well trained. 72 1 SIGHTS shore against a backdrop of sailboats bob- bing on the water and Pão de Açúcar off in the distance. 1 As with most beaches, those with mo- Botafogo & Humaitá bility impairments may have a tough time MUSEU CASA DE RUI BARBOSA MUSEUM getting around. There are no specific ac- Map p150 (%021-3289-4600; www.casaruibarbo cessibility features, and Leblon, Copaca- sa.gov.br; São Clemente 134; admission R$4, Sun bana and Barra beaches are better suited to free; h9am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) those with disabilities, especially on week- The former mansion of famous Brazilian ends when AdaptSurf (p28) and Praia Para journalist and diplomat Rui Barbosa is now Todos (p28) are in town. a museum housing his library and personal MIRANTE DO PASMADO VIEWPOINT belongings. Barbosa played a pivotal role in Map p150 (Bartolomeu Portela) shaping the country’s socioeconomic devel- Sweeping views opment in the early 20th century. of Enseada de Botafogo, Pão de Açúcar and Currently undergoing refurbishment, Corcovado await visitors who make the jour- this nuseum is scheduled to re-open in mid- ney up Pasmado. It’s best reached in early 2016. Call them to discuss the new acces- morning or late afternoon, when the light is sibility features. at its best for capturing the postcard pano- rama. Visitors will also be able to see details MUSEU DO ÍNDIO MUSEUM of a favela from above. The overlook is best Map p150 (%021-3214-8700; www.museudoin reached by taxi via Rua General Severiano. Botafogo, Humaitá & U dio.org.br; Rua das Palmeiras 55; h9am-5:30pm No specific accessibility features are Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) F Featuring mul- available, although anyone who is able to timedia exhibitions on Brazil’s northern get there via taxi or private driver should tribes, the small Museu do Índio provides manage to see the great view. an excellent introduction to the economic, religious and social life of Brazil’s indig- enous people. Next to native food and me- 1 Urca dicinal plants, the four life-size dwellings in the courtyard were actually built by PÃO DE AÇÚCAR MOUNTAIN four different tribes. As a branch of Funai See p70 (the National Indian Foundation), the mu- rca seum contains an excellent archive of more PISTA CLÁUDIO COUTINHO WALKING TRAIL than 14,000 objects, 50,000 photographs Map p150 (h6am-sunset) Everyone loves this

S and 200 sound recordings. Its indigenous paved 2km trail winding along the southern ights ethnography library containing 16,000 vol- contour of Morro do Urca. It’s a lush area umes by local and foreign authors is open to full of trees, with the waves crashing on the the public during the week. rocks below. Look out for families of mar- There’s an accessible ramped entrance, mosets with their gray fur, striped tails and and an automatic stair-climbing chair to tiny faces. To get there, head 100m north enable wheelchair users to go up the several along the edge of Praia Vermelha (with your stairs that are inside the building. Bath- back to the cable-car station) and you’ll see rooms are fully adapted and accessible, and the entrance to the path straight ahead, just staff speak good English. There is no spe- past the beach. About 300m along the path, cific material or equipment to help those there’s a small trail leading off to Morro da with visual impairments, although there Urca. From there you can have a fine view is a telephone-to-text system available for over the city that won’t cost a thing (except those who are hard of hearing or deaf. plenty of sweat – the path up is steep!). Pão de Açúcar can also be climbed – but it’s PRAIA DE BOTAFOGO BEACH not recommended without an experienced Map p150 (Av dos Naçoes Unidas) Although the guide and climbing gear. waters of the bay are too polluted for swim- ming, the beach overlooking the Enseada PRAIA DA URCA BEACH de Botafogo (Botafogo Inlet) makes a photo- Map p150 (Av João Luís Alves) This tiny beach genic setting for a run or bike ride. Hopeful is popular with neighborhood kids who football stars play pick-up games along the gather here for pick-up football games when school is not in session (and sometimes 73 when it is). A small restaurant, Garota da MIAM MIAM CONTEMPORARY $$ Urca (p74), lies near the beach. Map p150 (%021-2244-0125; www.miammiam. As with most beaches, those with mo- com.br; General Goés Monteiro 34, Botafogo; bility impairments may have a tough time mains around R$60; h7pm-midnight Tue-Fri, getting around. Leblon, Copacabana and 8pm-1am Sat) Exposed brick walls and a Barra beaches are better suited to those mishmash of retro furnishings set the with disabilities. scene for dining in style at Botafogo’s cu- linary darling. Chef Roberta Ciasca serves PRAIA VERMELHA BEACH up her own brand of comfort food, such as Map p150 (Praça General Tibúrcio) Beneath smoked trout with roasted potatoes, pork Morro da Urca, narrow Praia Vermelha with rice and pineapple, eggplant lasagna has superb views of the rocky coastline with sheep’s milk yogurt, and other unique from the shore. Its coarse sand gives the dishes. beach the name vermelha (red). Because In a stunning old building with four the beach is protected by the headland, the steps to the entrance, no ramp and a tiny water is usually calm. bathroom, Miam Miam is no good for those Getting onto the beach itself requires with mobility impairments. They do, how- overcoming a huge step. However, the ever, have English and Braille menus, and promenade is stunning, and relatively flat. staff speak English. Be sure to go on Sunday evenings when live jazz and caipirinhas are on the menu. OUI OUI FRENCH, BRAZILIAN $$ Map p150 (%021-2527-3539; www.restaurante

ouioui.com.br; Conde de Irajá 85, Humaitá; small Botafogo, Humaitá & U plates R$35-42; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight 5 EATING Mon-Fri, 8pm-1am Sat) On a tranquil street in The dining scene has exploded here Humaitá, elegantly set Oui Oui serves inno- recently, with some of Rio’s most vative tapas plates designed for sharing – creative restaurants opening up on the carmelized ribs with pumpkin purée, duck tree-lined back streets of Botafogo and risotto and zesty quinoa salad with truffle Humaitá. A great street for browsing is oil are perennial favorites. Rua Nelson Mandela (right next to the Oui Oui has a ramped side entrance and Botafogo metro station), which is lined is all based on one floor. The bathroom is with casual open-air eating and drinking step-free but not adapted, and is only really spots. For higher-end dining, Rua Conde useful for those who are able to weight-bear rca de Irajá, 12 blocks west in Humaitá, has and transfer. Staff speak English and there excellent restaurants. Urca, largely is an English menu. E ating residential, has only a few choices. LIVRARIA PREFÁCIO BRAZILIAN $$ Unless otherwise noted, the following Map p150 (%021-2527-5699; Voluntários da Pá- do not have accessibility features tria 39, Botafogo; mains R$22-49; h10am-10pm for those with hearing or visual Mon-Fri, 2-10pm Sat & Sun) This charming res- impairments. taurant scores high on novelty: it’s hidden in the back of a bookshop, with stone walls, 5 low-lit lamps and bookshelves. Atmosphere Botafogo & Humaitá aside, the food is quite good, with nicely presented pastas, sandwiches, salads and MEZA BAR TAPAS $$ more creative fare such as Indian samosas. Map p150 (%021-3239-1951; www.mezabar.com. A portable ramp is available for those br; Capitão Salomão 69, Humaitá; tapas R$12-30; who require it. The bathroom is relatively h6pm-1am) Humaitá’s see-and-be-seen hot large but has a small step to enter. Staff do spot serves up delectable, Brazilian-slanted not speak English but there is an English tapas to a sophisticated and trendy crowd. menu available. Creative cocktails and delightful staff round out the fun. EMPORIUM PAX BRAZILIAN $$ A fixed ramp leads inside. The venue is Map p150 (%021-3171-9713; www.emporiumpax. all on one floor with a larger-than-average, com.br; Botafogo Praia Shopping, 7th fl, Praia de step-free (but not adapted) bathroom. Staff Botafogo 400, Botafogo; lunch buffet R$44-65; speak English and there are both English hnoon-midnight) One of many eateries at and Braille menus. 74 Botafogo Praia Shopping, Emporium Pax value weekday lunch specials, and you can is a more polished affair than the adjoin- enjoy views over the bay from the open-air ing food court and offers spectacular views veranda. By night, a more garrulous crowd of Pão de Açúcar and Baía de Guanabara. converges for steak and chope (draft beer). The big draw is the extensive lunch buffet, A portable ramp can be used to over- though for something lighter you can order come the stepped entrance. The bathroom salads, sandwiches and quiches, plus tasty is small, albeit step-free. There are English- desserts. speaking staff and English and Braille As it is inside a shopping center, Empo- menus. rium Pax is perfectly accessible for wheel- chair users. BAR URCA BRAZILIAN $$$ Map p150 (%021-2295-8744; Cândido Gaffrée oLASAI FUSION $$$ 205; mains R$52-136; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) Map p150 (%021-3449-1834; www.lasai.com.br; Near the outskirts of Urca, you’ll find an el- Conde de Irajá 191, Humaitá; prix fixe R$185-245; egantly set dining room with big windows h7:30-10:30pm Tue-Fri, 1pm-10:30pm Sat) In- letting in the breeze (not to mention lovely side an elegant early 20th-century house in views over the bay). The seafood is first- Humaitá, Lasai has dazzled critics and food- rate, with scrumptious caldeirada (seafood ies with its deliciously inventive cuisine. The stew), moqueca (Bahian fish stew) and carioca (resident of Rio) chef Rafa Costa e grilled octopus on the menu. Silva earned his chops in some of the world’s While the restaurant is totally inaccessi- best dining rooms (including Mugaritz in ble, Bar Urca is better known for its popular

Botafogo, Humaitá & U Spain), and he puts his skills to brilliant use and accessible snack stand that’s on street here. There’s no set menu: dishes are based level, where you can order appetizers and on whatever is fresh that day (some ingre- drinks and assemble a satisfying feast to dients are grown in the chef’s own garden). enjoy on the seawall across the street (just Reservations are essential. watch out for the massive curbs). Lasai is set over two floors; only the ground floor is accessible for those with mobility impairments. A ramp and eleva- DRINKING & tor lead to the ground-floor entrance, and 6 there is also a fully accessible bathroom on NIGHTLIFE the ground floor. Staff speak English and Botafogo is the place to go for lively, rca menus in English and Braille are available. authentic carioca bars, with fun, mixed

crowds and little of the pretense you D rinking 5 might encounter in bars further south. Urca Rua Visconde de Caravelas is a good place to browse the pub scene. JULIUS BRASSERIE EUROPEAN $$ Map p150 (%021-3518-7117; Av Portugal 986, Urca; Unless otherwise noted, the following &N mains R$45-75; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun) This do not have accessibility features for those with hearing or visual ightlife elegant Dutch-Brazilian-run restaurant in Urca turns out a creative mix of grilled meats impairments. (rack of lamb, duck breast), seafood (shrimp curry with black rice), pastas and risottos in a quiet location on the edge of Praia da Urca. 6 Botafogo & Humaitá It makes a great lunch or dinner spot, fol- CAVERNA BAR lowed by a stroll around the neighborhood. Map p150 (%021-3507-5600; www.espacocav The entrance into Julius Brasserie is fully erna.com; Assis Bueno 26; h6pm-1am Mon-Fri, accessible, and a large, but unadapted bath- 7pm-2am Sat) Yet another reason why Bota- room is available. Staff speak English and fogo may be surpassing Ipanema in the cool the restaurant also has an English menu. factor these days, this always buzzing rock- GAROTA DA URCA BRAZILIAN $$ and-roll-loving bar and bistro serves up mi- Map p150 (%021-2541-8585; João Luís Alves crobrews and juicy burgers amid a fun and 56, Urca; mains R$35-68; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, festive atmosphere (though the music rocks to 2:30am Fri & Sat) Overlooking the small a little loud some nights). Praia da Urca, this restaurant serves good- 75 One small step takes guests inside this upstairs and therefore inaccessible. Staff funky bar. They do have a portable ramp, don’t speak English and no English menus but it was broken at the time of visiting. are available. The bathroom is step-free but not adapted, so may suit some visitors with mobility im- COBAL DO HUMAITÁ BAR pairments. Staff speak English and there is Map p150 (Voluntários da Pátria 446, Humaitá; an English menu. h8am-2am) A large food market in Hu- maitá, the Cobal transforms into a festive CABARET LOUNGE LOUNGE nightspot when the sun goes down, com- Map p150 (%021-2226-4126; www.cabaret plete with open-air eating and drinking. lounge.com.br; Voluntários da Pátria 449, Hu- If you need to get taxis around Rio, Co- maitá; cover R$15-40; h7pm-3am Tue-Thu, bal is a good option as taxis can go inside 9pm-5am Fri & Sat) The cozy Cabaret Lounge the gates and drop visitors off in one of the channels the look of an old-fashioned Paris- accessible parking bays. The entrance on ian dance hall, with red walls, glittering Voluntarios da Patria is possibly the best chandeliers, velvet couches and armchairs, bet. Cobal is flat throughout, with only a and gilt frames (containing video screens few restaurants having a couple of steps in- rather than sepia prints). Champagne and side. The supermarket is also good, with a cocktails are the drinks of choice. As the medium-gradient ramp up to the entrance. evening progresses, it becomes more of a The cashier aisles are particularly nar- dance spot, with DJs spinning overhead. row, although members of staff have been A fixed, higher-gradient ramp leads in- known to pack bags for mobility-impaired side. Cabaret spans over two floors, with customers and then help them out to a taxi. Botafogo, Humaitá & U only the first being step-free, although this In terms of restaurants, there’s everything is where most of the action happens. The you could want, from Brazilian to Ameri- bathroom is upstairs and is therefore not can, Italian and even a dedicated cake shop. accessible. Staff speak English and there’s Some have outdoor step-free seating. an English menu. BAR BUKOWSKI CLUB CALAVERA BAR Map p150 (%021-2244-7303; Álvaro Ramos 270, Map p150 (%021-3734-5461; Capitão Salomão 14, Botafogo; admission R$50; h9pm-6am Fri & Sat) Humaitá; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Paying homage to the bohemian American Sat) Opened in 2015, Calavera is the newest writer, this club has a downstairs dance

gastropub to open in Humaitá. You’ll find floor and bar, and an upstairs level for rca creative snacks, craft beer and a hipster- live bands playing rock, pop and blues. It’s

leaning crowd that raise glasses inside the a great scene, and usually attracts a fun D rinking small but artfully designed space. crowd. There’s also a pool table, darts and As the space is so small, the tables out- you can have a go at one of the water pipes. side are more suitable for those with mobil- No ramp is available for the one small ity impairments. There is a small, step-free step leading inside, although it should be but unadapted bathroom on-site that won’t manageable for most. There is no elevator &N

be suitable for many. You’ll have to test your to take visitors to the upper floor, although ightlife language skills as staff don’t speak English the two main dancefloors are downstairs and there is no English menu. and accessible. Staff speak English.

O PLEBEU BAR Map p150 (%021-2286-0699; Capitão Salomão 6 Urca 50, Botafogo; hnoon-2am Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) In the liveliest stretch of Botafogo, O Plebeu BAR URCA BAR is a welcoming, open-sided two-story bar Map p150 (%021-2295-8744; Cândido Gaffrée with tables spilling onto the sidewalk and 205, Urca; h8am-11pm) This much-loved a 2nd-floor balcony. Neighborhood regulars neighborhood bar and restaurant (p74) pack this place, drawn by ice-cold bottled has a marvelous setting near Urca’s bay- beer, codfish balls and an unpretentious side waterfront. At night, young and old crowd befitting the name (The Commoner). order drinks and appetizers from Bar The entrance is accessible, although Urca’s street-level snack stand, then cross those unable to manage stairs will have to the street to feast on the food and the fine stay on the ground floor. The bathroom is views. 76 GAROTA DA URCA BAR tile flooring, and bathrooms are step-free Map p150 (%021-2541-8585; João Luís Alves 56, and adapted. Porters man the elevators, Urca; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat) A making them easier for those with disabili- neighborhood crowd gathers over chope and ties to use. salgados (snacks) in the evening at this low- key spot. RIO SUL SHOPPING SHOPPING CENTER A portable ramp can be used to overcome Map p150 (%021-2545-7200; www.riosul.com.br; the stepped entrance. There is a small, step- Lauro Müller 116, Botafogo; h10am-10pm Mon- free bathroom, plus English-speaking staff Sat, 3-10pm Sun) The biggest shopping center and English and Braille menus. you can reach without heading to Barra da Tijuca, Rio Sul has more than 400 shops, featuring both prominent and obscure la- bels, as well as cinemas and restaurants. 3 ENTERTAINMENT A favorite spot in terms of access, Rio Sul is Rio’s easiest shopping center to navigate. As independent cinemas in Rio are not Step-free shops, accessible bathrooms and the most accessible, it is recommended modern elevators (with porters helping vis- that those with additional needs go to itors to each floor) are in abundance, and the movies in either Botafogo Praia warning tactile flooring, for those who are Shopping (p76) or Rio Sul (p76), visually impaired, lines elevators and esca- both of which are fully accessible for lators. The food court is spacious, and en- wheelchair users and show the odd tering and exiting via taxi is easy as ranks subtitled or audio-described film Botafogo, Humaitá & U are available on the ground and 4th floors. (although these are both in Portuguese). The mall offers free transport to/from its Rio Sul kiosk on Copacabana Beach (near Siqueira Campos) and from other points in 7 SHOPPING Ipanema and Leblon to the shopping cent- er. Check the website for departure times. Shopping in Botafogo usually means heading to the high-rise mall overlooking the bay. Urca, quiet old soul that she is, has nothing in the way of shopping. Unless otherwise noted, the following 2 SPORTS & rca do not have accessibility features ACTIVITIES for those with hearing or visual

impairments. You can hire a stand up paddleboard E

ntertainment (around R$30 per 30 minutes) or a two- BOTAFOGO person kayak (around R$15 per person PRAIA SHOPPING SHOPPING CENTER per 30 minutes) from one of the informal Map p150 (%021-3171-9872; Praia de Botafogo rental outfits at Praia Vermelha. 400, Botafogo; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun; W) Botafogo’s large shopping center CASA DE DANÇA has dozens of stores, featuring Brazilian CARLINHOS DE JESUS DANCE and international designers to suit every Map p150 (%021-2541-6186; www.carlinhos style – and clothe every part of the body. dejesus.com.br; Álvaro Ramos 11, Botafogo) At The 3rd floor’s the best for top designers: this respected dance academy in Botafogo, check out stores such as Maria Filó, Reserva Carlinhos and his instructors offer evening and Hope. The mall also has a cinema and classes in samba, forró (popular music of several top-floor restaurants, such as Em- the northeast), salsa and tango. On some porium Pax (p73), with great panoramic Friday nights, open dance parties for stu- views. dents and guests are held. One of Botafogo’s Botafogo Praia Shopping provides a safe colorful bloco parties, Dois Pra Lá, Dois Pra haven to those with accessibility require- Cá, begins from here during Carnaval. ments – although there are very few eleva- Certain dance classes may be accessible – tors available, which can cause long queues call to discuss your needs. of grumpy shoppers. There’s warning tac- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 77

Flamengo & Around FLAMENGO | COSME VELHO | CATETE | GLÓRIA | LARANJEIRAS & COSME VELHO

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Taking the steep cog 2 Exploring Rio’s past 4 Seeing amazing and train up Corcovado for a days of demagogues and ultra-modern exhibits at panoramic view beneath political intrigue in the Centro Cultural Oi Futuro Rio’s open-armed Cristo Museu da República (p81). Redentor (p79). (p81). 5 Strolling through 3 Trying authentic the expansive Parque do Middle-Eastern delights Flamengo (p81). (and testing your Portu- guese) at Sirio Libaneza

(p83). A

v Enseada 0 1 1 1 1 1 km A da Glória e# u 1 1 1 0 0.5 miles g 1 1 1 1 u Marina SANTA s 1 1 1 t TERESA o da Glória 1 1 1 1 S e ve Largo do ro Guimarães ro T a 444Praia do m ú to A GLÓRIA n San Flamengo e R l S a n t R u a Itapir 4s4e 4 tin B R Silveira Mar a qu r i b 2# Parque r a n r do Catete R a e e H B t a e 44m 4 r t CATETE o a o

d C D

e o o e P g t Largo do d R n e Parque # n R4 t a E Machado e r f ó r Guinle 4m 4n 4 p f u I a o 3# l l r s v Baía de i t ra F s jei A ran o Guanabara

s La d

a s d FLAMENGO a

R i

e 5# t

4a 44

r

R n o

P

r a

P i u r i d e b n n a u s A h s ai g e P e r LARANJEIRAS i R d e r 444 V o s Parque do COSME r ê M o Flamengo u VELHO a d q c r a

h a n e R C a o M sm S a e d Ve s lh R o o R Morro da o b e Viúva r e a t u tafogo i B n q o u fa ri B R n n D e v I e d A v H 1# Parque 4a 4 A i m a o (3km) Nacional r Praia de D da Tijuca P Botafogo 4For more4 detail of this area see Map p152 A 78 Lonely Planet’s Accessible Top Tip Explore Flamengo & Around This is a vast and spread- Running east from the bay out to Corcovado, the resi- out area, and distances dential neighborhoods of Flamengo, Laranjeiras, Catete, between metro stations can Glória and Cosme Velho have much history hidden in be relatively long and tricky,

Flamengo & their old streets. The Parque do Flamengo dominates the especially in the midday region. Also known as the aterro (landfill), this beach- heat. Plan your day in a way fronting green space is one of the world’s largest urban that allows attractions and parks, and includes a nationally recognized art museum, eateries to be in close pro- biking and running trails, sports fields, and thousands mixity – you’ll save on en- of trees and flowering plants. Inland from the park, the ergy and possible taxi fares.

A round shaded streets of Flamengo are sprinkled with a few Go to see Christo Redentor cafes, historic botecos (small open-air bars) and gossip- once in the daytime and filled juice bars. once in the evening if you West of Flamengo, Laranjeiras is a tightly woven com-

can, for two totally different

munity with a small-town feel. Charming plazas such as  experiences – especially in the Praça São Salvador are great spots for taking in the terms of crowds. neighborhood. Cosme Velho lies beyond Laranjeiras and is the key access point for those heading up to the statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) by cog train. Getting There & The aging buildings of bustling Catete and Glória Away have seen better days. These twin districts flourished in the mid-19th century when their locations on the city Flamengo outskirts made them desirable places to live. Nobles and merchants built homes in this district, including the Bus Flamengo: Leblon, Barão de Novo Friburgo, who built the stately Palácio do Ipanema and Copacabana Catete. By the end of the century, however, the wealthy (571 and 573). began moving further out as the inner city expanded. Metro Flamengo, Largo do Machado, Catete and Glória.

Laranjeiras & Cosme Local Life Velho ¨Outdoors Parque do Flamengo (p81) draws locals, especially on Sundays, when the main road through Bus Leblon (570 and 583), the park closes to traffic. Parque Guinle (p82) and Ipanema and Copacabana Parque do Catete (p82) are peaceful escapes from (569 and 583). the bustling city. Express bus 580 from ¨Folk art The Museu de Folclore Edison Carneiro Largo do Machado metro (p82) has beautiful pieces from around Brazil. station. ¨Hangouts Centro Cultural Oi Futuro (p81) often hosts cutting-edge exhibits, and stages plays and concerts. 79

CRISTO REDENTOR

One of Rio’s most identifiable landmarks, the DON’T MISS... magnificent 38m-high Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) looms large atop the granite mountain ¨¨The splendid views of Corcovado. From here, the statue has stunning along the way (sit views over Rio, which probably explains the contented on the right side of expression on his face. There are various ways to the train for the best reach the statue, but the traditional way is via a steep scenery). cog train, which ascends through tropical forest and ¨¨Other nearby sites in adds a touch of excitement to the experience. Cosme Velho.

The Views PRACTICALITIES Corcovado, which means ‘hunchback,’ rises straight up from the city to a height of 710m, and at night the brightly ¨¨Christ the Redeemer lit statue is visible from nearly every part of the city. When ¨¨%021-2558-1329 you reach the top, you’ll notice the Redeemer’s gaze di- ¨¨www.corcovado. rected at Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain), with his left com.br arm pointing toward the Zona Norte; Maracanã Football ¨¨cog station, Cosme Stadium crowds the foreground. You can also see the in- Velho 513 ternational airport on Ilha do Governador just beyond and the Serra dos Órgãos mountain range in the far distance. ¨¨adult/child R$62/40 Beneath Christ’s right arm you can see Lagoa Rodrigo de ¨¨h8am-7pm Freitas, Hipódromo de Gávea, Jardim Botânico, and over to Ipanema and Leblon.

Getting to the Statue Corcovado lies within the Floresta da Tijuca. The most popular way up is to take the red narrow-gauge train that departs every 30 minutes from the cog station. It takes approxi- mately 20 minutes to reach the top. To reach the cog station, a taxi to the main ticket office is the best bet, as buses to and from there are not always fully accessible. There’s also a road going up to the base of the monument. A private car or taxi will take you only as far as Paineiras parking lot, from which you must transfer to an authorized van to continue the 2km to the top (at a cost of R$35 per person). Another option is to travel by van from Corcovado train station. Vans also depart from Copacabana in front of Praça do Lido from 8am to 4pm (adult/child R$62/40) and Largo do Machado from 8am to 5pm (adult/child R$62/40). The most challenging way to reach the statue is on foot. You’ll need a moderate level of fitness and plenty of water. It’s a 2½-hour walk, with a few tough sections. The trail starts at Parque Lage (Map p148) near Jardim Botânico and goes through rainforest to the heights of Corcovado. At the end of the trail you’ll need to pay the admission (R$35), which includes the van ride a further 1km to the site.

Historical Background Named one of the world’s Seven New Wonders in 2007, Cristo Redentor is Brazil’s largest and most recognized monument. The Redeemer, which opened in 1931, is considered to be the world’s largest art deco statue. It’s not a gift from the French, as is popularly believed. However, chief sculptor Paul Landowski was of French-Polish origin and carried out much of the construction in France. He collaborated with the Rio architect-engineer Heitor Silva Costa (1873–1947). Many organizations helped make the statue a reality, including several individuals who went door-to-door asking for contributions. 80

CRISTO ON FILM The idea for the statue originated in 1921 when a group called Círculo Carioca held a competition The benign savior has for a religious monument to commemorate Bra- played a supporting zil’s upcoming 100 years of independence. Heitor’s role in a few Hollywood winning project, which took 10 years to build, was Flamengo & films. It has appeared considered particularly ambitious at the time – nay- in Now, Voyager sayers doubted whether it could be accomplished at (1942) starring Bette all. Heitor’s original idea depicted Christ as a ver- Davis, and in Alfred tical form with a long cross held against his side Hitchcock’s Notorious but the committee wanted something recognizable (1946), with Cary Grant from a great distance, so the crosslike outstretched A round and Ingrid Bergman. arms were chosen instead. Today it’s one of Brazil’s More recently the dis- most frequented attractions, welcoming more than aster film 2012, which one million visitors a year.

depicted the end of the C

r world in vivid, unadul- When to Go isto Redento terated glory, showed Or rather...when not to go: avoid going on weekends Cristo crumbling as a gi- when the crowds are thickest. Obviously, keep an ant tidal wave destroys eye on the sky and don’t bother going on cloudy or the city of Rio. As an overcast days. Your best bet for beating the crowds aside, the archdiocese is to go first thing in the morning, or catch the last of Brazil didn’t take train up (around 7pm). Christ looks very different

r kindly to the depiction in the dark! and sued Columbia Pictures for copyright Notes on Accessibility infringement (for using The ticket office lies on a steep hill, and little shade the image without per- is available on sunny days. There is a ramp leading mission). on and off the cog train to support wheelchair users and those with reduced mobility. Take note: there is only one space per wheelchair user on each train, so WHAT’S NEARBY? early arrival is advised. Those using electric wheel- chairs must sit side-on in the carriage. The train If you visit the statue by can stop and start quite rapidly, so hold on. Once cog train you can also off the train, there is an elevator to take users up to visit a the nearby Largo the statue, but then only escalators to get to within do Boticário (p81), a touching distance of the monument. An accessible curious slice of Rio that bathroom is reserved specifically for those with seems straight out of disabilities. Well-trained staff are on hand to help. the 1800s. No sign-language interpreters or text transcription phones exist for those with hearing impairments, and no audioguides, digital materials, tactile floor- ing or maps, Braille buttons or contrasting direc- tional tapings are on hand for the visually impaired. 81 1 SIGHTS The entrance to is totally accessible, Unless otherwise noted, the following do and an elevator is available for those who not have accessibility features for those need it. Staff don’t speak much English, with hearing or visual impairments. but the exhibition has a leaflet in English describing the works. There’s also audio description devices for those with visual

1 impairments. An adapted and accessible Flamengo & Flamengo bathroom is on site. PARQUE DO FLAMENGO PARK Map p152 (Parque Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes) Of- ficially called Parque Brigadeiro Eduardo 1 Cosme Velho Gomes, Parque do Flamengo was the result MONUMENT of a landfill project that leveled the São CRISTO REDENTOR A round Antônio hill in 1965. It now spreads all the See p79. way from downtown Rio through Glória, LARGO DO BOTICÁRIO HISTORIC SITE Catete and Flamengo, and on around to

Map p152 (Cosme Velho 822) S Botafogo. The 1.2 sq km of land reclaimed The brightly i gh from the sea now stages every manner of painted but sadly dilapidated houses on this picturesque plaza date from the ear- carioca (resident of Rio) outdoor activity. ts Cyclists and rollerbladers glide along the ly 19th century. Largo do Boticário was myriad paths, while the park’s many foot- named in honor of the Portuguese gentle- ball fields and sports courts are framed man – Joaquim Luiz da Silva Souto – who against the sea. On Sundays and holidays, once ran a boticário (apothecary) utilized the avenues through the park are closed to by the royal family. The sound of a brook vehicle traffic from 7am to 6pm. coming from the nearby forest adds to the Designed by famous Brazilian landscap- plaza’s charm. Occasional art and cultural er Burle Marx (who also landscaped Brasíl- events are hosted here. ia), the park features some 170,000 trees of This plaza has no specific accessibility 300 different species. There are two indoor features, but is worth a visit if you’re in the attractions in the park: the Museu de Arte area for the sights and sounds alone. Moderna and the Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da II Guerra Mundial. This is a lovely place to sit and watch the 1 Catete world go by, but there is little equipment MUSEU DA REPÚBLICA MUSEUM on offer in terms of accessibility. Getting Map p150 (%021-2127-0324; museudarepublica. around shouldn’t be a problem, but there museus.gov.br; Rua do Catete 153; admission are no accessible bathrooms. R$6, Wed & Sun free; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm CENTRO CULTURAL Sat & Sun) The Museu da República, located OI FUTURO ARTS CENTER in the Palácio do Catete, has been won- Map p152 (%021-3131-3060; www.oifuturo.org. derfully restored. Built between 1858 and br; Dois de Dezembro 63; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) 1866 and easily distinguished by the bronze F One of Rio’s most visually exciting ad- condors on its eaves, the palace was home ditions is this futuristic space on the edge of to the president of Brazil from 1896 until Flamengo. Within 2000 sq meters of exhibi- 1954, when President Getúlio Vargas com- tion area spread across six floors, the center mitted suicide here. The museum has a features temporary multimedia installa- good collection of art and artifacts from the tions that run the gamut from architecture Republican period, and also houses a good and urban design to photo-journalism, lunch restaurant, an art-house cinema and pop art and eye-catching video art. There’s a bookstore. also a permanent exhibition on the history Vargas made powerful enemies in the of telecommunications in Brazil. The top armed forces and the political right wing, floor houses an auditorium, where visitors and was attacked in the press as a commu- can attend concerts and plays, or catch a nist for his attempts to raise the minimum documentary. wage and increase taxes on the middle and upper classes. Tensions reached a criti- cal level when one of Vargas’ bodyguards 82 fired shots at a journalist. Although the shop that sells handicrafts, books and folk journalist was unharmed, an air-force of- music. The museum is located next door to ficer guarding him was killed, giving the the Palácio do Catete. armed forces the pretext they needed to Only the ground floor of this museum is demand Vargas’ resignation. In response, accessible to those with reduced mobility. Vargas committed suicide, and his emo- There’s no elevator, but staff are working

Flamengo & tional suicide note read: ‘I choose this hard to change this. There is, however, an means to be with you [the Brazilian people] accessible bathroom and translated Eng- always…I gave you my life; now I offer my lish text descriptions join each piece of the death.’ The 3rd-floor bedroom in which the exhibition. suicide occurred is eerily preserved. The entrance to the museum is accessible PARQUE DO CATETE PARK (Map p152) A round via a ramp. There is no elevator available The small landscaped park on to take visitors to higher floors, so exhibits the grounds of the Palácio do Catete pro- on the ground floor are the only option for vides a quiet refuge from the city. Its pond wheelchair users. Some tactile exhibitions and shade-covered walks are popular with

S do exist for those with visual impairments. neighborhood strollers and children. Spe- i gh The bathroom is fully accessible, with a cial performances in the park include con- certs and plays. From 9am to 5pm on the ts handrail, and the restaurant on-site has an English menu. last Sunday of the month, the park hosts a Photography and Image Fair, with works PARQUE GUINLE PARK by amateur and professional photographers Map p152 (Paulo Cesar de Andrade 407) This for sale. handsomely landscaped park is a pleasant No specific accessibility features are refuge from busy Rua das Laranjeiras out- available, but getting around the park side its sphinx-guarded gates. It has a small shouldn’t prove an issue for those with mo- wooded area, a tiny lake with ducks and bility impairments. there are always a few cariocas lounging on the grass. Designed by French landscape architect 1 Glória Gochet (with later flourishes by Roberto Burle Marx), the park is also home to the IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA dramatic Palácio das Laranjeiras, the state DA GLÓRIA DO OUTEIRO CHURCH governor’s residence (currently closed to Map p152 (%021-2557-4600; www.outeiroda visitors). The palace overlooks the west side gloria.org.br; Praça NS da Glória 135; h9am-noon of the park and is partially hidden by the & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun) This tiny thicket of trees. church atop Ladeira da Glória commands No specific accessibility features are lovely views out over Parque do Flamengo available in the park, although it is well and the bay. Considered one of the finest ex- thought out and designed, and shouldn’t amples of religious colonial architecture in prove an issue for those with mobility Brazil, the church dates from 1739 and be- impairments. came the favorite of the royal family upon their arrival in 1808. MUSEU DE FOLCLORE Some of the more fascinating features of EDISON CARNEIRO MUSEUM the church are its octagonal design, its sin- Map p152 (%021-3826-4434; www.cnfcp.gov.br; gle tower (through which visitors enter), the Rua do Catete 179; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, 3-6pm elaborately carved altar (attributed to the Sat & Sun) F Created in 1968, this mu- Brazilian sculptor Mestre Valentim) and its seum is an excellent introduction to Bra- elegant 18th-century tiles. zilian folk art, particularly that from the In terms of accessibility, it’s suggested northeast. Its permanent collection com- that visitors take a car, as an on-site gate prises 1400 pieces, and includes Candomblé can be opened to aid those with reduced costumes, ceramic figurines and religious mobility in their journey to the church. costumes used in festivals. The museum There’s also a ramp leading to the entrance. also features a folklore library and a small The current priest speaks English, and 83 would happily translate some of his ser- mon. A large bathroom is available on-site, 5 Laranjeiras & Cosme but it is not specifically adapted. Velho

LUIGI’S ITALIAN $$ EATING Map p152 (%021-2205-5331; Senador Corrêia 10, 5 Laranjeiras; mains R$36-54; hnoon-midnight Flamengo & Flamengo has a mix of longtime local Tue-Sun) Well off the beaten path, Luigi’s is a favorites and stylish newcomers. Rua casual Italian restaurant set in an old villa Marquês de Abrantes is one of the best in Laranjeiras. Join neighborhood regulars streets on which to see old and new for a drink on the small covered courtyard vying for attention. or head inside to blessed air-conditioning

Laranjeiras doesn’t have much of a for homemade pastas, authentic pizzas A round restaurant scene, but the neighborhood (available after 6pm) fired in the wood- has several charming options for those burning oven and creamy tiramisu. wanting to get off the beaten path. The old villa doorframe of this gorgeous

Catete and Glória are dotted with place is pretty narrow; friendly staff are Ea inexpensive juice bars and lunch on hand to help but there’s no easy, ac- tin counters, making them good areas for cessible ramp available. The restaurant g those eating on a budget. Most places probably isn’t suitable for those with large are along Rua do Catete, with a couple power chairs (although staff are adamant of standouts hidden along the back they have many wheelchair-using custom- streets. ers). There is no elevator to the 2nd floor, Unless otherwise noted, the following although this floor is only used on week- do not have accessibility features ends. Staff speak English, and there is an for those with hearing or visual English menu available. The bathroom is impairments. rather narrow, although if you manage the doorframe you’ll probably be fine.

5 Flamengo 5 Catete SÍRIO LIBANEZA MIDDLE EASTERN $ Map p152 (www.rotisseriasl.com.br; Largo do CARIOCANDO BRAZILIAN $$ Machado 29, Loja 16-19; snacks R$8-24; h8am- Map p152 (%021-2557-3646; http://barcario 11pm Mon-Sat; W) Always packed, this cando.com.br/site; Silveira Martins 139; per kg bustling place serves up tasty and cheap R$40-60; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Syrian-Lebanese cuisine and great juices. This atmospheric pay-by-weight restau- Try the hearty kibe de forno (oven-baked rant serves up a good selection of Brazilian ground beef dish with spices), a hummus dishes by day, and transforms to a live- platter or kafta (spiced meat patty), fol- music spot with a menu of mostly drinks and lowed by baklava and other sweets. It’s appetizers by night (cover charge around inside the Galleria Condor on Largo do R$20). Saturday afternoons, which feature Machado. feijoada (a bean-and-meat stew served with This popular, cramped place is housed in rice) and live choro (a romantic, improvised a small shopping center, so the entrance is samba-related music) or samba, are a great flat. The bathroom is tiny, so it would be time to stop in (per person R$60). best to search for another one nearby. An accessible ramped entrance takes you Staff speak little English, and no Eng- into a whole new world of flavors. Those lish menus are available, so be prepared with reduced mobility will have to sit at to point and gesture. High bar tables and ground level as there is no elevator to take stools line the counter where customers can guests to the 1st floor. Staff speak English, go for ‘fast food’, or there is a small seated but there is no English menu. The bath- area at the back – staff will reserve one of room is relatively accessible, although not the outside tables for those with reduced specifically adapted. Depending on individ- mobility, if asked. ual needs, some may struggle here. 84 CATETE GRILL BUFFET $$ Tables outside on the veranda are best Map p152 (%021-2285-3442; Rua do Catete 239; for wheelchair users; there’s a few steps in- per kg R$62; h11am-11pm) The Catete Grill side and it isn’t the largest of places. A steep has an excellent buffet with a wide range of ramp leads to a small, non-adapted bath- seafood, grilled meats, sushi, pastas, salads, room. Staff don’t speak English but there is appetizers and baked dishes. an English menu.

Flamengo & The entrance is ramped and tables are available on the ground floor. However, BELMONTE BOTECO the bathroom is upstairs, with no elevator Map p152 (%021-2552-3349; Praia do Flamengo leading to the 1st floor. As it’s a buffet res- 300, Flamengo; h9am-2am) One of the classic taurant, no menus are available – enjoy the botecos in Rio, Belmonte is a vision of Rio guesswork! from the ’50s. Globe lights hang overhead

A round as patrons down ice-cold drafts from the narrow bar. Meanwhile, unhurried waiters 5 Glória make their way across the tile floors, car- rying plates of pasteis de camarão (shrimp

BRAZILIAN Dr TABERNA DA GLÓRIA $$ pasties) or steak sandwiches. This hugely Map p152 (%021-2265-7835; Rua do Russel 32; successful chain, born here, is now wide-

in mains R$40-72; hnoon-1am) spread across Rio. k in On a small plaza in the heart of Glória, this large outdoor There’s one step to get into the bar, but g eatery serves decent Brazilian staples in there are also outdoor tables available. The & abundance; most dishes here serve two. bathroom is in the basement, and there’s N

i gh Next door is a roast-chicken restaurant no elevator. There are menus in Braille and and both are fine spots to enjoy an ice-cold English. t

l chope (draft beer) and open-air ambience.

i HERR BRAUER BAR f With tables both in and outside, an ac- e cessible entrance and relatively accessible Map p152 (%021-2225-4359; Barão do Flamengo bathroom with handrails, this is a good 35, Flamengo; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat) Dedi- choice for those with reduced mobility. cated to the great beers of the world, this There’s an English menu and some staff cozy drinking den serves some 80 labels in speak a little English. all: Belgian beers, such as Duvel and Deus; German labels, including Erdinger and Warsteiner; English brews Abbot Ale and Newcastle; plus Guinness, Brazilian micro- 6 DRINKING & brews and dozens of other offerings. Stop in NIGHTLIFE for happy hour from 6pm to 8pm, when you can get a first-rate pint for R$19. Few tourists visit the bars in Flamengo, With one small step to enter, some which are mostly low-key neighborhood wheelchair users may require help. The hangouts that are popular around main area is on the ground floor, and the happy hour. Rua Marquês de Abrantes bathroom is step-free but small and not is the best street to take in the scene, adapted; it won’t be adequate for all. Staff with bars and restaurants attracting don’t speak English and there are no Eng- a drinking crowd. Laranjeiras is best lish menus. known for Rua Alice, which sports a couple of traditional botecos. BAR DO SERAFIM BAR Unless otherwise noted, the following Map p152 (%021-2225-2843; Alice 24A, Laran- do not have accessibility features jeiras; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) for those with hearing or visual On a lively stretch of Rua Alice, the Bar do impairments. Serafim is a simple, convivial boteco serving tasty Portuguese appetizers and plenty of DEVASSA BOTECO chope. It’s been around since 1944, and re- Map p152 (%021-2556-0618; Senador Vergueiro mains an institution and a popular happy- 2, Flamengo; hnoon-1am) A particularly in- hour spot among neighborhood regulars. viting branch of the growing Devassa net- The entrance is accessible, with a fixed work, this bar is set on a shaded square and ramp in place. There is a small step to enter serves the usual Devassa hits, including the bathrooms, which are likely not wide great drafts. enough for many wheelchair users. There is no English menu. 85 3 ENTERTAINMENT (and unfortunately more expensive) shopping experience. or visit the CENTRO CULTURAL Photography and Image Fair at Parque OI FUTURO PERFORMING ARTS do Catete (p82). Map p152 (%021-3131-3060; www.oifuturo.org. br; Dois de Dezembro 63, Catete) This hyper- modern cultural center and gallery space Flamengo & also stages dance performances and con- 2 SPORTS & certs. The fare is generally not mainstream. ACTIVITIES The entrance is totally accessible, and an elevator is available for those who need MAR DO RIO DIVING it. Staff don’t speak much English, but the Map p152 (%021-2225-7508; www.mardorio.com. br; Shop 16, Marina da Glória, Av Infante Dom Hen-

exhibition has a leaflet in English describ- A round ing the work. There’s also audio description rique, Glória) One of several dive operators devices for those with visual impairments. in the Marina da Glória, Mar do Rio offers An adapted and accessible bathroom is on two-tank dives for around R$200 (gear

hire costs extra) on Saturdays and Sun- site. There are no aids or devices available E for those with hearing impairments. days, departing at 8:30am and returning nte at 2:30pm. It also offers night dives twice ESPAÇO MUSEU r a month. Less-experienced divers can opt t DA REPÚBLICA CINEMA a

for one of the courses, including a five-day in %

Map p152 ( 021-3826-7984; Museu da Repúbli- PADI-certified basic course. m ent ca, Rua do Catete 153, Catete) The screening Accessible dives can be arranged, but in- room located behind the dramatic Museu terested participants must call and discuss da República shows contemporary and vin- their requirements in advance, as only cer- tage films of indie and world cinema. En- tain access needs can be accommodated by trance is via the Parque do Catete. certain instructors. At the time of writing, this venue was closed, so contact the venue for accessibil- SAIL IN RIO BOAT TOUR ity information. Map p152 (%021-99998-3709; www.sailinrio. com; Marina da Glórias; 2/4/6hr private sailing tours from US$240/300/400) This recom- mended outfit offers excellent private sail- 7 SHOPPING ing tours around Rio. You can arrange anything from a two-hour sail around the The Flamengo area is neither a bay to a six-hour trip out to the Cagarras traditional nor a particularly accessible Islands in front of Ipanema. shopping area, with most shops It’s necessary to call and discuss your in- being small, cramped vintage stores dividual access requirements if you wish to and independent art galleries. Stick book one of the tours. to Zona Sul for a more accessible ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 86

Centro & Praça Mauá CINELÂNDIA & AROUND | PRAÇA XV & AROUND | PRAÇA MAUÁ & AROUND | PRAÇA TIRADENTES & AROUND

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Pondering the future 2 Seeing a mind-opening 4 Watching the world while browsing interactive exhibition or show at Cen- go by in Praca Floriano exhibits in the beauti- tro Cultural Banco do (p90). fully designed Museu do Brasil (p88). 5 Treating yourself to Amanhã (p89). 3 Watching a show at the sweetly scented skincare lavish Theatro Municipal products at Granado (p96). (p95).

a A i v R r od a a r i igu d e es a r Al r v v SAÚDE e 1# i s o A R v C Ve R ne Ilha das Pç Jornal zue la PÇ MAUÁ Cobras Ilha do Comércio A 1 1 1 v Fiscal R Sacadura Cabral 1 1 R R Dom

i R 1 C1emi1tério o Gerardo Pç Major B P 1 1 Pç dos dos Ingleses Valô r r a i 1 1 1 Estivadores m n

R e c C o i a r R m o e B r d 2# e in Pç Pio X n o e t M A000 Baía de o 0v 00 R iano a 0P 00 Guanabara i r R CENTRO r r u b o ç 5# 00e 0 pe l Fl o s m e ha 000 Po ec U 00id0 n i r as Se r Ma rg r 000e R o Av Va u 000n nte SAARA es g te sideP Air 000u K re ç s a A ub P o 000 i its Av d en 000 a v ch a u n e B 000 R k R e 000 a d i CASTELO e R o Campo de p 00000 a B anh ú 00000 ca Av Nilo Peç R Santana b 00000 rio r a a Aeroporto l 00000C A i A c a a d 0000d 0 Largo da n v 0t 00 a R n n Santos Dumont e 00000 c 000 t P a Carioca o ô 000 V S r S a A n i e e z #– i a v le i s a hi o d u n C i L du G o d t d 000 C R a # e a R 3 a c o ic a e bl 000 n t n n ú r a m 000 t C p o e l C e a i v R 0000 o a e A o # e 4 s S r t 0000 F r s is a 0000 ã l r R o F g 0000 o a i n s r v e 0000 o e E V Pç Senador S 0000 ls r S i R i R a 0000 a e e r CINELÂNDIA W M u a FÁTIMA e 000 d 0000 iq Salgado Filho b R e a enr Pç Dona ia m 000 t ir H a c A 000 n e s v e m Antônia h p Mem 000 Passeio d B o t u d 000 i a e v D i e Sá 000 Público s ã l i e A e o o 000 r o t P n Parque do v a LAPA A f Flamengo n 0 1 km I # v Enseada da e0 0.5 miles A Glória For more detail of this area see Map p156 A 87 Lonely Planet’s Explore Centro & Praça Mauá Accessible Top Tip Rio’s downtown is a wild architectural medley of old You’ll need to catch a cab and new, with striking baroque churches and narrow to get to much of downtown colonial streets juxtaposed against looming office tow- Rio. Although a very authen- ers and wide, traffic-filled boulevards. During the week tic part of the city, this is it’s all fuss and hurry as Rio’s lawyers, secretaries and one of the last to have had clerks jostle among the crowded streets. But despite the things such as curbs cuts pace, it’s well worth joining the fray; Centro has some of and smooth flooring imple- the city’s best museums and its most intriguing histori- mented. However, Centro cal sights, including avant-garde art galleries and 18th- also provides good value for century cathedrals. money, making those taxi Mauá & Praça Centro The southern focal point of downtown is Cinelândia, rides not sting too much. which has a wide plaza framed with grand buildings, There are lots of museums a historic theater, an old cinema and several outdoor in the area that have free ad- cafes. Near the waterfront, Praça XV is another pivotal mission, and stiff competi- sight, home to a former royal residence turned into a tion helps keep lunch prices museum and some cafes. A short stroll from there leads down – particularly at the to the Travessa do Comercio, one of the oldest intact many decent pay-by-weight parts of Rio. Lined with colonial architecture, the nar- restaurants. row cobblestone streets here buzz with life on weekday

 evenings, as cariocas (residents of Rio) pack the outdoor bars and cafes. Getting There & Many pedestrian-only areas crisscross Centro, and for Away the urban wanderer, there’s no better destination in Rio. Bus From the Zona Sul look In addition to Praça XV and Cinelândia, it’s worth ex- for the following destina- ploring the streets around picturesque Praça Tiradentes. tions printed in the window: A handful of galleries, old dance halls and historic sites ‘Rio Branco’, ‘Praça XV’ and lie nearby. A few blocks north of there is Saara, a giant ‘Praça Tiradentes’. street bazaar crammed with discount stores and sprin- Cinelândia, Carioca, kled with Lebanese restaurants. Metro Uruguaiana and Presidente North of Centro is Praça Mauá, a waterfront plaza Vargas. that has become the symbol of Rio’s renaissance. The once derelict streets here have been revitalized with new museums, an aquarium and towering office build- ings, and there are new restaurants, cafes and bars in the works.

Local Life ¨Arts There are several key concert halls in the area, including Theatro Municipal (p90). ¨Hangouts The open-air bars along Travessa do Comercio and nearby streets draw festive after-work crowds. ¨Shopping strips The narrow, pedestrian-packed streets of Saara are intriguing for browsing, but not very accessible. CENTRO CULTURAL BANCO DO BRASIL BJANKA KADIC / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © Housed in a beautifully restored 1906 building, the PRACTICALITIES Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) hosts some of Brazil’s best exhibitions. Facilities include a cinema, ¨¨Map p156 two theaters and a permanent display of the evolution ¨¨CCBB of currency in Brazil. There is always something ¨¨%021-3808-2020 going on, from exhibitions and lunchtime and evening ¨¨culturabancodobrasil. concerts to film screenings, so look at O Globo’s com.br entertainment listings or the Veja Rio insert in Veja ¨¨Primeiro de Março 66 magazine before you go. ¨¨admission free Finally! An accessible dream for all, this center has luminous emergency signals in communal areas, inter- ¨¨h9am-9pm Wed-Mon preters on hand, and telephones with text transcriptions available. There are accessible parking spots reserved for those with reduced mobility, smooth pavements, lowered curbs and accessible doorways, with low- to medium-gradient ramps where needed. Elevators are available, as are acces- sible bathrooms and reserved places for wheelchair users and their assistants in audito- riums. Although there are no audioguides, contrasting strips or tactile maps available for those with visual impairments, there are sounding emergency alarms in communal areas, Braille buttons and audio floor indicators in the elevators, and tactile flooring is available in places. MUSEU DO AMANHà EDUARDO GARCIA / GETTY IMAGES © Designed by famed Spanish architect Santiago PRACTICALITIES Calatrava, this beautifully conceived science museum has interactive exhibitions on outer space, Earth ¨¨Map p156 and its biodiversity, humans (and our impact on the ¨¨www.museudoamanha. world), and the major global trends and challenges org.br that lie in the future. In all the museum takes a rather ¨¨Rodrigues Alves 1 philosophical, and not entirely pessimistic, look at the human species and its long-ranging impact on everything around it. People with disabilities are entitled to half-price entry at the museum. Staff speak lim- ited English, but there are cards that can be picked up from reception to translate all interactive exhibitions to English. Accessible toilets are available and have grab-rails, an angled mirror and a small space for side transfer. The museum has bilingual signs and tactile flooring on all levels. Be careful, though; some exhibitions are quite dark. There is a ‘touchable gallery’ on the 2nd floor for those with visual impairments. Elevators go to all floors and are large enough for power chairs, with Braille buttons and an audible floor indicator. There is an audioguide for visitors in Portuguese, English and Spanish. An IRIS Card for further interactivity for hard-of-hearing guests is currently being tested in Brazil- ian Sign Language (Libras), and will hopefully be available at Games time. This really is the place to go if you want inclusion. 90 1 SIGHTS Theater is the home of Rio’s opera, orches- Unless otherwise noted, the following do tra and ballet. Its lavish interior contains not have accessibility features for those many beautiful details – including the with hearing or visual impairments. stage curtain painted by Italian artist Eli- seu Visconti, which contains portraits of 75 major figures from the arts, including Car- 1 los Gomes, Wagner and Rembrandt. Guided Cinelândia & Around multilingual tours lasting 45 minutes are PRAÇA FLORIANO PLAZA offered from Tuesday to Friday (at noon, Map p156 (Rio Branco) The heart of modern 2pm and 4pm) and Saturday (at noon). It’s Rio, the Praça Floriano (known to cari- also well worth coming for a performance. Although parking is not available, get- Centro & Praça Mauá & Praça Centro ocas simply as Cinelândia) comes to life at lunchtime and after work when the outdoor ting to the theater is relatively simple, cafes are filled with a beer-swilling office with smooth pavements, lowered curbs crowd. The square is also Rio’s political and accessible doorways all present. There marketplace and is a major meeting point is an elevator, and spaces are reserved for for protestors. Most city marches and ral- wheelchair users and their assistants in the lies culminate here on the steps of the old theater. At the time of writing, the bath- Câmara Municipal in the northwestern cor- rooms were less than accessible, but the ner of the plaza. theater was undergoing some renovations Many cobblestones and Portuguese tiles so it might be worth calling the box office make this square a gorgeous sight to see, to check for any updates.

S although not the most accessible. How- ights MUSEU NACIONAL ever, taxis are plentiful so it’s easy to get DE BELAS ARTES MUSEUM a ride home once you’ve had enough. It is Map p156 (%021-3299-0600; www.mnba.gov. pedestrianized in places. There are several br; Rio Branco 199; adult/student R$8/4, Sun cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating free; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) around the square. Rio’s fine-arts museum houses more than THEATRO MUNICIPAL THEATER 18,000 original paintings and sculptures, Map p156 (%021-2332-9191; www.theatromunici some of which date back to works brought pal.rj.gov.br; Av 13 de Maio, Praça Floriano; guided over from Portugal by Dom João VI in 1808. tours R$10) Built in 1905 in the style of the One of its most important galleries is the Paris Opera, the magnificent Municipal Galeria de Arte Brasileira, which includes 20th-century classics such as Cândido Por- tinari’s Café. Other galleries display Brazil- ian folk art, African art and furniture, as VLT: A NEW DOWNTOWN well as contemporary exhibits. Audioguides RAIL LINE are available (R$8). Rio’s new light rail – the VLT (www. Accessible bathrooms are available on vltcarioca.com.br) – is part of a mas- each floor, although they may prove too sive urban-renewal project helping to small for a side transfer. Getting around transform Centro. The first part of the the museum should not prove an issue: line opened in mid-2016. When fin- there are English-speaking staff at the door ished, the VLT (Light Rail Vehicle) will and a portable, medium-gradient ramp at have 32 stations in Rio, running about the entrance. Signs are bilingual through- half-a-dozen routes throughout down- out. There is a small elevator, which may town. For visitors, handy lines include not be large enough for power-chair users. the route from Cinelândia to Praça It has Braille buttons but no audio floor Mauá and from Praça XV to Praça indicator. Tiradentes. There will also be links to BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL HISTORIC BUILDING Aeroporto Santos Dumont, Rodoviaria Map p156 (%021-2220-9484; Av Rio Branco 219; Novo Rio bus station and the train sta- h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) F Inau- tion. At the time of writing, the VLT was gurated in 1910, Rio’s neoclassical national not finished, so its accessibility could library is the largest in Latin America. It’s not be measured. home to more than nine million volumes, 91

ILHA DE PAQUETÁ

This tropical island (%ferry 0800-721-1012; www.grupoccr.com.br/barcas) in the Baía de Guanabara was once a very popular tourist spot and is now frequented mostly by families from the Zona Norte. There’s a certain dirty, decadent charm to the colonial buildings, unassuming beaches and businesses catering to local tourism. The place gets crowded on weekends. There are no cars on the island. Transport is by foot, bicycle (with literally hundreds for rent) or horse-drawn cart. It may prove extremely tough for wheelchair users! Go to Paquetá for the boat ride through Rio’s famous bay and to see cariocas at play – especially during the Festa de São Roque, which is celebrated with fireworks, a

procession and music on the weekend following 16 August. Mauá & Praça Centro Boats leave from near the Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro in Centro. The ferry takes 70 minutes and will cost you R$10 for a return trip. There are 12 departures daily; boats leave roughly every 90 minutes from about 7am. including many rare books and manu- Elevators are available, as are accessible scripts. Among the treasure trove are origi- bathrooms, specifically for those with lim- nal letters written by Princess Isabel, the ited mobility. Spaces are also reserved for first newspapers printed in the country and wheelchair users and their assistants dur- two copies of the precious Mainz Psalter ing certain exhibitions, which makes a

S

Bible, printed in 1492. Free guided tours in huge difference. ights English depart at 1pm. Braille buttons are present in elevators, A flat, accessible entrance is around the as are audio floor indicators. No audio- back at Rua Mexico. A high-gradient ramp guides or tactile flooring are available, al- with contrasting visual strips leads to re- though steps do contrast in colour to aid the ception, with an entrance gate for those mobility of those with visual impairments. unable to manage a turnstile. There is also There are luminous emergency signals in a wheelchair for public use. There is an communal areas but no other equipment elevator but it is very small; power chair to help for those with hearing impairments. users may struggle to fit in. There are no Braille buttons, although the elevator does have an audio floor indicator. Inside the 1 Praça XV & Around library, some books are available in Braille and there is a large accessible bathroom, al- CENTRO CULTURAL though the corridor leading to it is narrow. BANCO DO BRASIL CULTURAL CENTER The bathroom has room for side transfer, See p88. grab rails, and a lowered mirror and sink. Staff do not speak English. oMUSEU HISTÓRICO NACIONAL MUSEUM Map p156 (%021-3299-0311; www.museuhis CENTRO CULTURAL toriconacional.com.br; off General Justo, near JUSTIÇA FEDERAL CULTURAL CENTER Praça Marechal Âncora; admission R$8, Sun Map p156 (%021-3261-2550; Av Rio Branco 241; free; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) hnoon-7pm Tue-Sun) F The stately build- Housed in the colonial arsenal, which dates ing overlooking the Praça Floriano served from 1764, the impressive Museu Histórico as the headquarters of the Supremo Tri- Nacional contains relics relating to the his- bunal Federal (Supreme Court) from 1909 tory of Brazil from its founding to its early to 1960. Following a restoration project days as a republic. Highlights include gild- completed in 2001, it opened as a cultural ed imperial coaches, the throne of Dom Pe- center. It features exhibitions on photogra- dro II, massive oil paintings depicting the phy and Brazilian art, and some fascinating horrific war with Paraguay and a full-sized shows from abroad sometimes make their model of a colonial pharmacy. There’s some way here. attention paid to Brazil’s indigenous popu- No accessible parking is available, al- lation and curious pieces such as the quill though ramps are of an acceptable gradi- that Princess Isabel used to sign the docu- ent and stairs have handrails on both sides. ment abolishing slavery in Brazil. 92 Elevators and accessible bathrooms are available, and getting in and around should 1 Praça Mauá & Around cause little problem for those with limited mobility. MUSEU DO AMANHÃ MUSEUM See p89. PRAÇA XV (QUINZE) DE NOVEMBRO HISTORIC SITE MUSEU DE ARTE DO RIO MUSEUM Map p156 (near Primeiro de Março) The first Map p156 (MAR; www.museudeartedorio.org.br; residents on this historic site were Car- Praça Mauá 5; adult/child R$8/4, Tue & last Sun melite fathers who built a convent here in of month free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Looming 1590. It later came under the property of the large over Praça Mauá, the MAR is an icon Portuguese crown and became Largo do for the rebirth of Rio’s once derelict port. Centro & Praça Mauá & Praça Centro Paço, which surrounded Paço Imperial, the The huge museum hosts wide-ranging ex- royal palace. The square was later renamed hibitions that focus on Rio in all its com- Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro after Bra- plexity – its people, landscapes, beauty, zil declared itself a republic on November challenges and conflicts. Start by taking 15, 1822. the elevator to the top (6th) floor, and ab- A number of historic events have taken sorbing the view over the bay. There’s also place here: the coronation of Brazil’s two an excellent restaurant here. Then work emperors (Pedro I and Pedro II), the aboli- your way down through the galleries, tak- tion of slavery and the overthrow (deposi- ing in a mix of international and only-in- tion) of Emperor Dom Pedro II in 1889. Rio exhibitions.

E No specific accessibility features are Easy-access entrances, elevators and ating present in the square, although it is flat, ac- accessible bathrooms are available, as are cessible and generally peaceful, especially tactile flooring, tactile exhibitions and where shaded by the trees. audioguides for those who are visually im- paired. All signs are bilingual, and wheel- IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DE chairs are available to hire free of charge. CANDELÁRIA CHURCH Accessible guided tours are available by ap- Map p156 (%021-2233-2324; Praça Pio X; h8am- pointment, and some members of staff are 4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, to 1pm Sun) Built specifically trained in disability awareness. between 1775 and 1894, NS de Candelária was the largest and wealthiest church in imperial Brazil. The interior is a combina- tion of baroque and Renaissance styles. The 5 EATING ceiling above the nave reveals the origin of Rio’s busiest neighborhood has the church. The cupola, fabricated entirely everything from greasy lunch counters from limestone shipped from Lisbon, is one to French bistros. Most restaurants of its most striking features. open only for lunch on weekdays. Many Mass is said at 7am daily except Mon- pedestrian-only areas throughout day and Saturday, and at 9am and 11am on Centro (such as Rua do Rosário) are Sunday. The construction of the original full of restaurants, some spilling onto church, dating from the late 16th century, the sidewalk, others hidden on upstairs on the present site was credited to a ship’s floors. Restaurant hunting here is captain who was nearly shipwrecked at sea. something of an art. Upon his safe return he vowed to build a Unless otherwise noted, the following church to NS de Candelária. A later design do not have accessibility features led to its present-day grandeur. for those with hearing or visual A small, old but stunning place, NS de impairments. Candelária is not a beacon of accessibility. A small step leads into the doorway, there is no accessible bathroom on site, all sig- 5 nage is in Portuguese and staff don’t speak Praça Tiradentes & English. However, it’s worth going just to Around appreciate the beauty and tranquillity of a building in the middle of one of Rio’s busi- CONFEITARIA COLOMBO BRAZILIAN $ % est areas. Map p156 ( 2505-1500; www.confeitaria colombo.com.br; Gonçalves Dias 34; pastries 93

R

Pç Pio X P R Baía de r i d Guanabara # 0 200 m m o e0 0.1 miles e M ir '€ e o #8 r d c 0000000 a 0000000 CENTRO e d 0000000 M o 000P0ç0 M0er0cado a 0000000 R r 000M0u0n0ici0pal R ¡# ç Uruguaiana d 0000000 o 0000000 d o Pç0 X0V (0Q0uin0z0e)0 R o C 0000000 s r d o a de0 N0o0ve0m0br0o 0 A d 0000000 a vi r n u m #7 0000000 C O 0000000 d o o 0000000 o r d n a ro d R b A c Pç Monte a m v e te s e i R P ç Castelo S

ã G e a d R

o 000000 o e s t d w s 000000 n e D S a o 000000 ça 0000s00 i R s e a Q 000õ000 s l #5 Mauá & Praça Centro 6 000m000 v A u # a i 0C00000 e v n s 0e 00000 t d R ís 000000 a i n u o L ro d R b tem B de Se a ete r CASTELO R S a 000000000 n 00000tu0iç0o00 ioca c Av Nilo Peçanha onsti a Car o R0da0C0000000 R d 00000P0ç 000 000T0ira0de0n0tes00 #4 o 000000000 arros 000000000 ¡# Carioca te B 000000000 #3 iran Alm Largo da Av Carioca re A leg v o A t 1 Por ile 3 újo Ch d #2 Ara a do e 0000 R blic M 0000 pú a 0000 e i 0000 Av R o0000 00#01 00 Bonde to &~0000Pç0 ¤# 00F0lo0ria0no Santa Teresa 0000 Cinelân0di0a ¡#00 0000 Neighborhood Walk 22Historic Centro After taking in the views, walk over to nar- START PRAÇA FLORIANO row Rua Gonçalves Dias to reach END TRAVESSA DO COMÉRCIO 5 (p92) for caf- LENGTH 3KM; FOUR HOURS Confeitaria Colombo feine, pastries and art nouveau. From Rua Gonçalves Dias, turn left on A mélange of historic buildings and sky- Rua do Ouvidor, following it to Largo de San scrapers, Centro is a fine place to experi- Francisco de Paula. One block further is the ence the city away from its beaches and 6Real Gabinete Português de Leitura, mountains. Do this tour during the week, a historic reading room that seems straight as the area’s deserted (and unsafe) on out of 19th-century Portugal. weekends. Turn right when exiting and pass Praça Start at the 1Praça Floriano (p90), Tiradentes, before heading left over to Rua a scenic plaza set with several outdoor Sete de Setembro. Follow it until it ends cafes. On the north side, the neoclassical near the 7Paço Imperial. Once the seat 2Theatro Municipal (p90) is one of of the Portuguese rulers in Brazil, the build- Rio’s finest buildings, particularly after its ing today houses intriguing art exhibitions, recent R$65 million renovation. If you time and cafes. your visit right, take one of the guided tours. Leaving the Paço, cross Praça XV Stroll north along Av 13 de Maio. You’ll (Quinze) de Novembro and take the narrow pass through the 3Largo da Carioca, a lane beneath the arch. You’ll walk along one bustling area with a small market. On the of Centro’s oldest lanes, 8Travessa do hill is 4Igreja São Francisco da Pen- Comércio, full of open-air restaurants and itência, a 17th-century church with a jaw- bars. It’s a fitting ending to a day’s wander. dropping gilded interior. Reach the church via stairs or elevator near the Carioca metro station. 94

PORTO MARAVILHA Rio’s docklands, located north of Centro in the neighborhoods of Gamboa and Barrio Saúde (and also stretching into Centro, São Cristóvão and Cidade Nova), have been transformed into the Porto Maravilha (Marvelous Port; www.portomaravilha.com.br), the most exciting and ambitious of the city’s transformations in the run-up to host- ing the 2016 Olympic Games. The massive urban waterfront revitalization project, clocking in at an area of 5 million sq meters and costing an estimated R$8 billion, has turned a historic but underused and dilapidated port into one of Rio’s showcase attractions, with new cultural attractions such as the Museu de Arte do Rio (p92), the Museu do Amanhã (p89) and the massive AquaRio (%021-2558-

Centro & Praça Mauá & Praça Centro 3735; www.aquariomarinhodorio.com.br; Av Rodrigues Alves 379; admission R$40; h9am- 6pm) aquarium; plus 17km of bike paths, numerous parks, and squares dotted with 15,000 new trees. A flashy new light rail (see p90) connects the area with other parts of downtown. As the traditional birthplace for samba and choro (a romantic, improvised, samba-related music), Rio’s port is once again singing following the dra- matic transformation.

around R$9, sandwiches R$18-40; h9am-7pm filled pastry) and other baked items, while Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) Stained-glass windows, the restaurant menu features roast meats brocaded mirrors and marble countertops and fish, soups, baguette sandwiches,

E

ating create a lavish setting for coffee or a meal. quiche, cheese plates and the like. Dating from the late 1800s, the Confeitaria There are two steps into the restaurant, Colombo serves desserts – including a good but customers can eat and drink at the pastel de nata (custard tart) – befitting its tables outside. Should getting up the two elegant decor. The restaurant overhead, steps be possible, there is a larger-than- Cristóvão (Map p156; Gonçalves Dias 34; buffet average but unadapted bathroom inside. If per person R$87; hnoon-4pm), spreads an ex- not, there is a step-free accessible bathroom tensive buffet of Brazilian dishes for those down the street at Cais do Oriente. Staff wanting to further soak up the splendor. don’t speak English and no English menus A ramp with a yellow contrasting strip are available. leads into this stunning place. The cafe is spacious, with lowered food counters and CAFÉ ARLEQUIM CAFE $$ all food labels in both Portuguese and Map p156 (%021-2220-8471; Praça XV (Quinze) English. The elevator to the 1st floor is de Novembro 48, Paço Imperial; mains R$27-44; constantly attended, but is small. In terms h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) In the of bathrooms, only the ladies’ toilet is ac- middle of a shop selling books and CDs, cessible, with grabrails and room for side this small, lively, pleasantly air-conditioned transfer. Staff would be fine with a male us- cafe is a fine spot to refuel, with Italian (Illy ing the bathroom – just let them know first, brand) coffee, sandwiches, salads, quiches, out of courtesy. Unfortunately, getting here lasagna and desserts. is not the easiest; there are many cobbled The cafe can be accessed step-free via and inaccessible roads to cross, and a taxi the Palace courtyard. An elevator takes would prove the best bet. But it’s worth the guests to bathrooms on the 2nd floor; they effort. are not specifically adapted but may be manageable for some.

5 CAIS DO ORIENTE BRAZILIAN $$$ Praça XV & Around Map p156 (%021-2233-2531; www.caisdooriente. BRASSERIE ROSÁRIO FRENCH $$ com.br; Visconde de Itaboraí 8; mains R$55-85; Map p156 (%021-2518-3033; Rua do Rosário 34; hnoon-4pm Sun & Mon, to midnight Tue-Sat) mains R$26-73; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) Brick walls lined with tapestries stretch Set in a handsomely restored 1860s build- high to the ceiling in this almost-cinematic ing, this atmospheric bistro has a hint of old 1870s mansion. Set on a brick-lined street, Europe about it. The front counters are full hidden from the masses, Cais do Oriente of croissants, pain au chocolat (chocolate- blends elements of Brazilian and Medi- 95 terranean cooking in dishes such as duck WEEK GAY breast with Brazil-nut farofa (garnish of Map p156 (%021-2253-1020; www.theweek.com. manioc flour sautéed with butter) and açaí br; Sacadura Cabral 135, Centro; 10pm-5am Sat) sauce. There’s a back courtyard and an Rio’s best gay dance club has a spacious upstairs concert space that hosts periodic dance floor, excellent DJs and lots of go- concerts. go dancers. Saturday nights are when the A portable medium-gradient ramp leads big parties are held. On other nights, there to a spacious interior. There’s also a fantas- might not be anything on, so check online tically accessible bathroom. It has hand- before heading out. rails and is spacious enough for those who Week was shut for works at the time need to side-transfer onto the toilet. There of writing. Call the venue for accessibility are English-speaking staff and an English information. Centro & Praça Mauá & Praça Centro menu is available.

3 ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING & 6 PEDRA DO SAL SAMBA NIGHTLIFE Map p156 (Largo João da Baiana, Gamboa; Rio’s working stiffs have some fine h8pm-midnight Mon & Fri) The Monday- and choices when it comes to joining the Friday-night street parties are major draws happy-hour fray. One of the most for lovers of samba, whether they be Brazil- ian or foreign, rich or poor. The lively sam- magical settings for a sundowner is D rin along the historic Travessa do Comércio. ba da mesa features a handful of changing The sidewalk tables on this narrow, players who belt out well-known songs to cobbled lane are packed on weekday swaying, joyful crowds surrounding the k ing nights, particularly as the weekend tiny plaza. The atmospheric but run-down nears – Thursday is always a good bet. setting is rich in history – samba was, in &N Places see a bit of action during the fact, born in the Bahian community that ightlife day on Saturdays (several restaurants once flourished here. Because the action along Rua do Rosário serve feijoada – a happens outdoors, the music is cancelled bean and meat stew), but close the rest on days of heavy rain. It’s best to take a taxi of the weekend. Another choice after- here (around R$40 from Copacabana). work spot is Praça Floriano, which has a Bars around the plaza are either step- handful of bars. free or have a slight step to enter. The plaza itself is both flat and accessible. If possible, AMARELINHO BOTECO go with a friend; it will make the hustle and Map p156 (%021-3549-8434; Praça Floriano 55, bustle more enjoyable. Adapted bathrooms Cinelândia; h10am-1am) Easy to spot by its are nearly impossible to find. No other ac- bright amarelo (yellow) awning, Amare- cessibility features exist here. linho has a splendid setting on the Praça Floriano, with the Theatro Municipal in the THEATRO MUNICIPAL THEATER background. Waiters serve plenty of chope Map p156 (%021-2332-9191; www.theatromunici- (draft beer) here as they wander among the pal.rj.gov.br; Manuel de Carvalho, Centro) This crowded tables. Amarelinho is a popular gorgeous art nouveau theater provides the lunch spot but packs in even bigger crowds setting for Rio’s best opera, ballet and sym- for that ever-important after-work brew. phonic concerts. The theater seats 2400, Gorgeous and accessible outdoor seating and sight lines are generally quite good. is available, where customers are in a prime Although parking is not available, get- position to people-watch. Inside, there is a ting to the theater is relatively simple, with small step up to four cubicle toilets – only smooth pavements, lowered curbs and suitable for those who are able to transfer accessible doorways all to hand. There is and weight-bear with ease. English menus also an elevator, and spaces reserved for are available, and staff can speak basic Eng- wheelchair users and their assistants in lish. No features are present for those with the theater. At the time of research the visual or hearing impairments. bathrooms were not very accessible, and no equipment or resources were available for 96 those with visual or hearing impairments, delightful and speak English, and further but as the theater was undergoing reno- ramps are available throughout the store, vations, it might be worth calling the box with all goods at an accessible height for office to check for any updates. wheelchair users. A bathroom is available, but it is not adapted and therefore only really suitable for those who can weight- bear and transfer easily. No helpful aids 7 SHOPPING are present for those with visual or hearing For a break from the chrome and glass of impairments. the Zona Sul, check out the old-school ARLEQUIM BOOKS, MUSIC shops of historic Centro. Bargains Map p156 (%021-2220-8471; Praça XV (Quinze)

Centro & Praça Mauá & Praça Centro abound in the narrow pedestrian streets de Novembro 48, Paço Imperial, Centro; h10am- around Saara, where shops peddle 8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) Bossa nova plays everything from clothes and cosmetics overhead at this charming cafe, bookstore to toys, jerseys and all the fabric and and music shop. As well as new books (in- sequins you’d ever need to make your cluding foreign-language titles), Arlequim own Carnaval costume. Nearby streets sells CDs covering bossa, samba and other offer a little of everything, including styles. The cafe menu features salads, sand- discounted record stores, secondhand wiches and other light fare (mains R$20 to bookshops and percussion stores, often R$37). set behind century-old shop fronts. Arlequim can be accessed step-free via

S hopping GRANADO BEAUTY the Palace courtyard. An elevator takes Map p156 (%021-3231-6747; Primeiro de Março guests to bathrooms on the 2nd floor (that 14, Centro; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) are not specifically adapted but may be A classic-looking apothecary with a name manageable for some). that’s been around since 1870, Granado BERINJELA MUSIC, BOOKS incorporates Brazilian ingredients in its Map p156 (%021-2532-3646; Av Rio Branco 185, all-natural products. Favorites include the Centro; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Ber- Castanha do Brasil (made from chestnuts injela is a fine place to hunt for old records from the Amazon) line of moisturizers, and classic samba CDs, and there’s also a shampoos and conditioners. You’ll also find selection of used books (though only a bright, sweet-smelling soaps and bath gels handful in English). It’s hidden in a small (including some for pets and babies), scent- shopping center, down a spiral ramp. ed candles, perfumes, shaving products With step-free access, this light and airy and retro-looking bags. The shop has other store immediately makes you feel good. locations in Lapa, Ipanema and Leblon. There is no bathroom or specific accessibil- An extremely large doorway and port- ity features, and the spiral ramp is much able ramp lead into this hidden gem in more fun to go down than up. the middle of downtown Rio. The staff are ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 97

Santa Teresa & Lapa SANTA TERESA | LAPA

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Photographing the 2 Seeing local and inter- 4 Enjoying a more Escadaria Selarón (p99), national musos perform at accessible Brazilian created by an artist who Circo Voador (p103). meal at Aprazível (p101). made the mosaic-covered 3 Watching an authentic 5 Experiencing great staircase his life’s work. It’s and exciting performance samba and fine food impressive even if walking at Fundição Progresso at the gorgeous Rio up it isn’t an option! (p101). Scenarium (p103).

00000 A s 00000 v arga 00000 R V Pç 0Tir0ad0e0nte0s e Largo da A te R Campo de 00000 n V p v e 00000 d d Carioca si i Santana ú re a R P e b du v 5# i A l S i o a c a ec t an a B o n i C e Av República 00r 0 r d t F a S a 000 R o do Chile 00n 0 ã n

R P 00c 00 o a a 00o00

C o S o r t 0000 açã a s a 0000 e el i a R g r g 0000 b r a a i

l d u v e 0000 a o R E R a V C0IN0E0LÂ0NDIA s Pç Cruz s a 0000 i R Sá t R 000 d 0000 r S o ado i i FÁTIMA i alv ã a Vermelha 000 e v S c a 3# s A o h 000 s Pç Dona u m A 000 a CIDADE e de v Me 00Pç0 Cardeal P Pç Mahatma ue lo p n m o Antônia ze de S 2#00C0âmara iq NOVA a o Re á 000 d Gandhi r i d 000 n o R R r e R a R a H Fre anec lo R i C d e M iachu LAPA R d o m R a a r o C i R L D a e A a t 1# B e u n p t

v d A m a n

r A

b é R Joaquim v a f í C A

R n a R Joaquim Silva u I v d 1 1 1 1R Padre Mi a g v g Murtinho a

u l u eli c A Parque do

1 1 1 1 n G Cemitério o â s n 1 1 1 1 l t Flamengo do Catumbi ti ó o 1 1 1 1 CATUMBI r

i S

a e 1 1 1 1 v er 1 1 1 1 ra o Ag Dr R tant in Cons m e irante enja t R Alm B e rino R t GLÓRIA T xand a ú Ale ro a C n o Am u e nt o

l Sa r o i R d S SANTA p g a R

a n n It t TERESA a e R B m co R a i a r r l b é d m F a 4# R Pedro A o r o a C d

ns a Marti Parque a lveira t i

Si e

R do Catete a t r

0 1 km e P e# 0 0.5 miles For more detail of this area see Map p154 A 98 Lonely Planet’s Accessible Top Tip Explore Santa Teresa & Lapa This is arguably the least acces- Icons of bohemian Rio, Santa Teresa and Lapa are sible part of Rio, although it is two rough-and-tumble neighborhoods that have still possible to have a fantastic, contributed considerably to the city’s artistic and and inclusive, night out in Lapa – musical heritage. On a hill overlooking the city, just do not expect to be able to Santa Teresa has an impressive collection of 19th- (st)roll the streets and explore century mansions set along winding lanes. Many with ease. The area is gener- beautiful colonial homes stretch skyward, their ally steep and narrow, with only manicured gardens hidden behind gabled fences. moto-taxis able to access large Today, Santa Teresa is the buzzword for a vibrant parts of Santa Teresa. Plan arts scene. Throughout the year, the sounds of ahead to ensure you can get impromptu festivals and street parties fill the air, where you want to. Similarly, ranging from Afro-Brazilian maracatu drumming many bars in Lapa have not had along Rua Joaquim Murtinho to live jazz at the a revamp and, as such, acces- Parque das Ruínas, and the annual Portas Abertas Santa T Santa sible bathrooms and curb cuts event sees dozens of artists open their studios and are scarce – use them when you cover the streets with living installations. see them. Try to make friends The streets of Lapa lie down the hill from Santa with staff in the bars that suit Teresa and south of Cinelândia. Formerly a residen- ere your needs; there is no reason tial neighborhood of the wealthy, Lapa became a why they won’t let you use their s red-light district in the 1930s. Although it is still a a & Lapa facilities, even if you’re not buy- gritty area, it’s also one of the music capitals of Bra- ing a caipirinha with them. That zil. At night, revelers from all over the city mingle said, many bars have accessible among its samba clubs and music-filled bars. The outdoor seating, and many cari- music scene has brought some gentrification to the

ocas (residents of Rio) who don’t area, including new restaurants, hostels and even a  wish to pay entrance fees to bars luxury hotel. and clubs dance to the music Lapa’s landmark aqueduct, Arcos da Lapa, is one outside instead. of the neighborhood’s most prominent features. Coursing over the 64m-high structure are narrow tracks that carry the photogenic bonde (tram) to Getting There & Away and from Santa Teresa. Santa Teresa

Taxi Drivers will take you as far Local Life as they can before the streets ¨Hangouts Santa Teresa has some fine local get too steep and narrow. Check haunts, including Bar do Gomes (p103), with them before the journey which often gets so busy that locals spill out starts. onto the street and therefore provide accessible Lapa entertainment. Plus, taxi drivers are happy to drop off and pick up customers here. Metro Cinelândia station is ¨Shopping strips The Rua do Lavradio is dotted not far away, although it is sur- with antique shops and cafes, plus samba clubs by rounded by Portuguese tiles night. (mosaiced flooring that can be hard to navigate). Taxi There are plenty of taxis around Lapa, and getting a lift to or from it will not prove an issue. Ensure you have your address written down and are confident about where you need to go; the driver may feign ignorance and take you the long way round after you’ve had a few drinks. 99

ESCADARIA SELARÓN LAZYLLAMA /SHUTTERSTOCK © Created by the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón, the PRACTICALITIES staircase bearing his name boasts colorful mosaics that cover the 215 steps leading up into the hilltop ¨¨Map p154 enclave of Santa Teresa. Situated in the heart of Rio’s ¨¨stairway btwn Joaquim vibrant samba district, the escadaria has come to Silva in Lapa & Pinto symbolize Lapa’s creative and bohemian spirit, and Martins in Santa Teresa its rebirth from a worn and battered former red-light district to a musical powerhouse. Sadly, Selarón died at the age of 65 in early 2013 – his body was found on the same steps to which he’d devoted the last 20 years of his life. Selarón was a well-known figure in the neighborhood, having moved to Rio in 1983 and settled in a house right off the stairway. What started out as a whim in 1990 evolved into an obsession; he was often spotted at work in Lapa and rarely left the neighborhood. The mosaics started out as a homage to the Brazilian people by utilizing green, yellow and blue, the colors of the flag. Later he added mirrors and unusual colors and patterns to illustrious effect. As the media began to cover his unusual contribution to the urban landscape, his fame spread, and soon travelers began arriving with ceramics from their own countries to donate, which he later incorporated into his ever-evolving installation. The stairs’ tiles hail from more than 60 countries. After he completed the stairs, he began covering other surfaces in need of cosmetic attention, including mosaics near the Arcos da Lapa. The stairs have been named a city landmark, and have been featured in numerous magazines, and photo and film shoots. Snoop Dogg’s ‘Beautiful’ features the steps, as does as U2’s ‘Walk On.’ Rio’s stirring bid for the 2016 Olympics, ‘The Passion That Unites Us,’ also showcases the steps. A hand-painted sign in English and Portuguese explains Selarón’s vision. As steps are the attraction here, they are of course inaccessible – but still incredible to look at from below. 100 1 SIGHTS park are accessible for those with limited Unless otherwise noted, the following do mobility, as there are several steps at nu- not have accessibility features for those merous places throughout the park, includ- with hearing or visual impairments. ing steps to get to the bathroom. CASA DE 1 BENJAMIN CONSTANT HISTORIC BUILDING Santa Teresa Map p154 (%021-3970-1177; Monte Alegre 255; h MUSEU CHÁCARA DO CÉU MUSEUM admission R$2, Sun free; 10am-5pm Wed-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) Map p154 (%021-3970-1126; www.museuscas This tranquil estate served tromaya.com.br; Murtinho Nobre 93; adult/child as the residence for one of Brazil’s most R$2/free, Wed free; hnoon-5pm Wed-Mon) The influential politicians in the founding of former mansion of art patron and indus- the young republic. Benjamin Constant trialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya (1837–91) was an engineer, military of- contains a small but diverse collection of ficer and professor before taking an active modern art, formerly Ottoni’s private col- role in the Provisional Government. He is lection, which he bequeathed to the nation. also remembered for founding a school for Santa T Santa In addition to works by Portinari, Di Caval- blind children. Painstakingly preserved, his canti and Lygia Clark, the museum displays house provides a window into his life and furniture and Brazilian maps dating from times. The lush gardens surrounding his estate provide a fine view over Centro and ere the 17th and 18th centuries, and also hosts temporary exhibitions. the western side of Santa Teresa. s A small step leads to the entrance, and The entrance to the estate is up a steep a & Lapa some exhibits are on the ground floor. The cobbled path, which may be quite difficult majority of the exhibitions, however, are on for some. Once inside, there is no eleva- the 1st floor and no elevator is available. tor, but ramps are available, and staff are Even if you can’t manage stairs, accessing able to make a visit quite accessible with

S advance notice. Staff do not speak much

ights the 1st floor is not impossible, although it is slightly tricky. Visitors must go to the English, though, so ask someone at your parking lot, and from there there’s a ramp accommodations to call ahead for you. The leading through the gardens and onto the small, cramped bathroom is not accessible. 1st floor. It would be much easier to do this with assistance, as the path is uneven in places (though there’s a good view at 1 Lapa the top). The bathroom is in the basement ESCADARIA SELARÓN LANDMARK and inaccessible. No English materials are available, although guided tours to the mu- See p99. seum can be booked. ARCOS DA LAPA AQUEDUCT Map p154 (near Av Mem de Sá) PARQUE DAS RUÍNAS VIEWPOINT An accessible Map p154 (%021-2215-0621; Murtinho Nobre 169; and much-photographed symbol of Lapa, h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) F This park con- the arches date back to the mid-1700s, when tains the ruins – exterior brick walls and the structure served as an aqueduct to carry a newly built staircase – of the mansion water from the Carioca River to downtown belonging to Brazilian heiress Laurinda Rio. In a style reminiscent of ancient Rome, Santos Lobo. Her house was a meeting the 42 arches stand 64m high. Today it car- (hdepartures every 30min) point for Rio’s artists and intellectuals for ries the bonde on many years until her death in 1946. There’s its way between Centro and Santa Teresa. a small gallery on the ground floor, but the CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA CHURCH real reason to come here is for the excel- Map p154 (%021-2240-2669; www.catedral.com. lent panorama from the viewing platform br; Av República do Chile 245; h7am-5pm, mu- up top. seum 9am-noon & 1-4pm Wed, 9am-noon Sat & There’s also a small outdoor cafe-kiosk Sun) This enormous cone-shaped cathedral and terrace where open-air concerts are was inaugurated in 1976 after 12 years of sometimes held. Staff speak English and construction. Among its sculptures, mu- English menus are available. Apart from rals and other works of art, the four vivid this cafe and terrace, few other areas of the stained-glass windows, which stretch 60m 101 to the ceiling, are breathtaking. The Museu restaurants are opening in the area, de Arte Sacra in the basement contains a catering to the young crowds heading to number of historical items, including the the dance halls. baptismal font used at the christening of Unless otherwise noted, the following royal princes and the throne of Dom Pedro do not have accessibility features II. The cathedral can accommodate up to for those with hearing or visual 20,000 worshippers. impairments. The entrance and ground floor of the ca- thedral are totally accessible and step-free, however, the bathroom is small and not 5 Santa Teresa adapted for accessibility. Staff are working on improving this in time for the Games. BAR DO MINEIRO BRAZILIAN $$ Two members of staff at the administration Map p154 (%021-2221-9227; Paschoal Carlos desk speak English. Magno 99; mains R$51-75; hnoon-2am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun) Black-and-white photo- FUNDIÇÃO PROGRESSO ARTS CENTER graphs of legendary singers cover the walls Map p154 (%021-3212-0800; www.fundicaopro of this old-school boteco (small open-air gresso.com.br; Rua dos Arcos 24; h9am-6pm bar) in the heart of Santa Teresa. Lively T Santa Mon-Fri) Once a foundry for the manufactur- crowds have been filling this spot for years ing of safes and ovens, Fundição Progresso to enjoy traditional Minas Gerais dishes. today hosts avant-garde exhibitions, con- The feijoada (bean-and-meat stew served ere certs and samba performances throughout with rice) is tops, and served every day,

the year. It is one of the few buildings in the along with appetizers, including pasteis s area that survived the 1950s neighborhood (savory pastries). Strong caipirinhas will a & Lapa redistricting project to widen Av República help get you in the mood. do Paraguai. A diverse range of shows is A single step leads into Bar do Mineiro, staged here: big-name acts such as Manu and no ramp is available. The bathroom is

Chao and Caetano Veloso, plus theater, vid- step-free but extremely small and not suit- E eo arts and ballet. The center also hosts the able for wheelchair users. Staff do not speak ating occasional art exhibition. The foundation is English, but an English menu is available. one of Lapa’s premier arts institutions and, if you’re sticking around Rio for a while, oESPÍRITO SANTA AMAZONIAN $$$ you can sign up for classes in capoeira, Map p154 (%021-2507-4840; Almirante Alex- dance, yoga and theater arts. andrino 264; mains R$50-88; hnoon-midnight Step-free access to Fundição Progresso is Wed-Mon) Espírito Santa is set in a beauti- available via the parking area. Once inside, fully restored mansion in Santa Teresa. the performance area is over two floors and Take a seat on the back terrace with its the offices over five, catered for by a small sweeping views or inside the charming, elevator which is not fitted with Braille but- airy dining room, and feast on rich, expert- tons. There are also ramps to some of the ly prepared meat and seafood dishes from performance areas, and designated acces- the Amazon and the Northeast. sible bathrooms with handrails. Staff speak A small step leads inside, but a portable English, and some of the activities and ramp is available for wheelchair users – just classes are appropriate for people with dis- ask. The restaurant is set over two floors, abilities – call to find out which ones. although the basement is inaccessible for those who are unable to manage stairs. A bathroom on the ground floor has been par- tially adapted; it is not large but it does have 5 EATING handrails. Staff speak English and both Eng- Great views, a diverse crowd and a lish and Braille menus are available. scenic atmosphere among late 19th- o BRAZILIAN century buildings set the stage for APRAZÍVEL $$$ % a great night out in bohemian Santa Map p154 ( 021-2508-9174; Aprazível 62; mains h Teresa. Most restaurants are within a R$70-110; noon-11pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun) short stroll of Largo do Guimarães. Hidden on a windy road high up in Santa Although Lapa is known more for its Teresa, Aprazível offers beautiful views samba than its cuisine, more and more and a lush garden setting. Grilled fish and roasted dishes showcase the country’s 102 culinary highlights of land and sea. Stand- cessible via stairs, however, it is only used outs include orange-infused grilled fish for special occasions and events. Staff do with coconut rice, cashews and roasted not speak English and there are no Eng- plantains. lish menus – so get ready to try out your This place is a bit out of the way, so call Portuguese. ahead (sometimes the restaurant is booked up by groups). Take a taxi and have your ERNESTO GERMAN $$ map handy, as drivers don’t always know Map p154 (%021-2509-6455; Largo da Lapa 41; where it is. sandwiches R$20-25, mains R$40-70; h11am- There is a ramp for wheelchairs users midnight Mon-Sat) With high ceilings and ex- and an elevator, bringing guests down to posed brick walls, there’s an old-time feel to the ground floor of the restaurant from this restaurant and drinking spot that’s just street level. The restaurant has various ar- a short stroll from the samba clubs in Lapa. eas, with some being up in the trees(!), so Ernesto has an extensive menu, though its only the ground floor is accessible to those grilled meats, codfish dishes and German- who cannot manage steps. There is also a inspired plates such as sausage with lentils, dedicated, fully accessible bathroom on the are standouts. There’s live music – Música Santa T Santa ground floor. Staff speak English and an Popular Brasileira (MPB) or samba – on English menu is available. Wednesdays (from 8pm; R$7) and Fridays (from 10pm; R$13). TÉRÈZE FUSION $$$ There’s one step inside and no ramp, but ere Map p154 (%021-3380-0220; Felicio dos Santos, most people with disabilities should be able h s Hotel Santa Teresa; mains R$80-130; noon- to manage. There is a larger bathroom on a & Lapa 3:30pm & 7:30-11pm) Under the command of the ground floor. The 1st floor is only acces- French chef Philippe Moulin, Térèze pro- sible via stairs, but it is only used for special vides a memorable dining experience. All occasions and events. Staff speak English the elements are here, from the decadent and English menus are available.

D rinking menu to the suggested wine pairings and the superb views over the city. Choose from MANGUE SECO CACHAÇARIA BAHIAN $$ the likes of creamy codfish risotto with lob- Map p154 (%021-3852-1947; Rua do Lavradio ster bisque, suckling pig with mashed sweet 23; mains R$40-60; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Part of the Rio Scenarium

&N potatoes and truffles, and eggplant gnocchi with cashew pesto. Tables and artwork are nightspot empire, Mangue Seco serves a

ightlife made from reclaimed lumber and recycled mix of seafood and Bahian fare, with hearty materials. moquecas and caldeirada de frutos do mar Térèze is up two flights of stairs and is (seafood stews). Upstairs, there’s a bar with therefore inaccessible to wheelchair users. more than 100 types of cachaça (sugarcane It does, however, have English-speaking alcohol), and there’s live music (often sam- staff and menus in both English and Braille. ba) from Tuesdays through Thursdays. Accessible outdoor tables are available, but there is a single step to enter the res- 5 Lapa taurant. There are two floors without an elevator, although the upper floor is gener- ESPAÇO LAPA CAFE BRAZILIAN $ ally only used for events. One member of Map p154 (%021-3971-6812; www.espacolapa staff speaks English, and English menus cafe.com.br; Gomes Freire 457; mains R$15-36; are on hand. The bathroom is accessible for h10am-6pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Fri) This crea- wheelchair users – it is step-free and has tive eat, drink and live-music space serves handrails. up good three-course lunch specials, plus sandwiches, snacks and a huge beer selec- tion from across the globe (more than 400 DRINKING & varieties, though not all are always avail- 6 able). Several nights a week live bands play- NIGHTLIFE ing rock, pop and salsa take to the small Santa Teresa and Lapa are two of Rio’s stage at the back. most atmospheric neighborhoods, The entrance is accessible and step- but are still rough around the edges, free, with a fully accessible bathroom on so take care when visiting. Lapa is at the ground floor. The 1st floor is only ac- 103 its wildest during the weekends, when SARAU BAR cariocas from all over the city head to Map p154 (Av Mem de Sá 64; h6pm-4am Tue- the neighborhood’s samba clubs. Santa Sun) Just past the Arcos da Lapa and tucked Teresa’s bar scene is sprinkled along the inside a building covered with an enormous main street near Largo do Guimarães, mural, this place is hard to miss. There’s though Largo das Neves, with its tiny live music (samba and forró, popular music plaza and open-sided bars, is also a of the Northeast) from 7:30pm. It’s also a draw. Take a taxi when visiting these great spot for having a few drinks at one neighborhoods at night. of the many outdoor tables on the plaza in Unless otherwise noted, the following front and taking in the vertiginous street do not have accessibility features scene. for those with hearing or visual With a large outdoor seating area and a impairments. relatively accessible interior, Sarau is big enough to stay pretty spacious when many other Lapa bars are splitting at the seams, 6 Santa Teresa so you can sit and have a drink or three on one of Lapa’s most iconic corners. Again, BAR DO GOMES BOTECO bathrooms are not adapted or accessible. T Santa Map p154 (%021-2232-0822; Áurea 26; hnoon- 1am Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun) Although the sign says ‘Armazém do São Thiago,’ everyone ere calls the place Bar do Gomes. Regardless, 3 ENTERTAINMENT

this simple hole-in-the-wall has long been s

Lapa’s Fundição Progresso (p101) a & Lapa a favorite gathering spot, particularly on is an accessible venue for music and weekends, when young and old pack the theater performances. few standup tables and bar front, and spill onto the sidewalk. RIO SCENARIUM SAMBA

This place is popular and cramped and Map p154 (www.rioscenarium.com.br; Rua do E ntertainment therefore not the most accessible. Bath- Lavradio 20, Lapa; cover R$25-50; h7pm-4am rooms are small and staff speak limited Tue-Sat) One of the city’s most photogenic English. However, Bar do Gomes is beauti- nightspots, Rio Scenarium has three floors, fully positioned in Santa Teresa, and one of each lavishly decorated with antiques. Bal- the few bars taxis will happily drive to. So, conies overlook the stage on the 1st floor, if you want to experience Santa Teresa and where dancers keep time to the jazz-infused all it has to offer, this is your chance. Sit samba, choro (romantic, improvised samba- outside and soak up the local atmosphere. style music) or pagode (popular samba mu- sic) filling the air. Rio Scenarium receives much press outside of Brazil, and attracts at 6 Lapa least as many foreigners as locals. A long and high-gradient ramp leads LEVIANO BAR BAR inside, and all three floors are accessible Map p154 (%021-2507-5967; www.levianobar. via elevator. The balconies overlooking com.br; Av Mem de Sá 49; h6pm-late) Near the the samba bands are particularly good for entrance to Mem de Sá, the Leviano Bar wheelchair users who would otherwise is part of a new crop of slightly more up- struggle to get a good view. Bathrooms are scale drinking and dancing spots. Watch unadapted and quite small. Works are be- the passing people parade – and take in the ing done to improve experiences for those great view of the Arcos da Lapa – from the with visual and hearing impairments, al- outdoor area before heading to the upstairs though there’s nothing to show for it yet. dance floor, where DJs mix house, electro- samba, soul and reggae. CIRCO VOADOR CONCERT VENUE Leviano Bar has no specific accessibil- Map p154 (%021-2533-0354; www.circovoador. ity features. Bathrooms are inaccessible com.br; Rua dos Arcos, Lapa; admission R$40- and no elevator is available to take guests 90) In a curvilinear building behind the to the upper floor. It does, however, has a Arcos da Lapa, Circo Voador hosts big- lovely outside seating area that is both flat name Brazilian and international artists. and spacious. It’s a reasonable option in an The acoustics here are excellent, and after a otherwise inaccessible Lapa. 104 show you’ll find plenty of other musical op- LA VEREDA HANDICRAFTS HANDICRAFTS tions in the area. Check the website to see Map p154 (%021-2507-0317; Almirante Alexandri- what’s on. You can also take classes in ca- no 428, Santa Teresa; h10am-8pm) La Vareda poeira (Afro-Brazilian martial arts), dance, stocks a colorful selection of handicrafts percussion and yoga. from local artists and artisans in a spot Avoid the crowds and feel like a VIP: a near Largo do Guimarães. Handpainted separate accessible entrance is available for clay figurines by Pernambuco artists, heavy guests with disabilities. For shows, there Minas ceramics, delicate sterling silver are two levels of seating, both with ramp jewelry and loosely woven tapestries cover access. There are even facilities to adapt a the interior of the old store. Other cool gift dressing room downstairs for performers ideas: T-shirts bearing a bonde (tram) im- in wheelchairs. Accessible bathrooms are age, block prints by local artist Erivaldo available, and some staff members speak and vibrant arte naïf canvases by various English. Currently, there are no aids to en- Santa artists. There are several other handi- hance the experiences of those with visual craft shops and galleries also on this street. and hearing impairments, although work is With a couple of steps leading into the being done to change this. store and no ramp available, this shop is Santa T Santa not suitable for most wheelchair users. LAPA 40 GRAUS LIVE MUSIC Staff speak English. Map p154 (%021-3970-1338; www.lapa40graus. com.br; Rua do Riachuelo 97, Lapa; admission ere R$10-50; h6pm-5am Wed-Sat) This impres-

s sive multistory music venue and pool hall SPORTS &

a & Lapa 2 has tables for lounging on the 1st floor, ACTIVITIES more than a dozen pool tables on the 2nd floor, and a small stage and dancing cou- FUNDIÇÃO PROGRESSO DANCING ples on the top floor. There are usually two Map p154 (%021-2220-5070; www.fundicao

S hopping shows nightly. Pop, rock, samba and choro progresso.com.br; Rua dos Arcos 24, Lapa) kick off around 7pm and 11pm. This cultural center offers a wide range of The entrance and all three floors are courses, including classes in dancing: Afri- fully accessible, with an elevator catering can styles, salsa, tango and samba. Those for each. There is no accessible bathroom. seeking something different can sign up for Staff speak English. classes in percussion, acrobatics (run by the respected dance-theater-circus outfit In- trépida Trupe) or capoeira. Percussion and circus arts courses typically cost R$200 for 7 SHOPPING twice-weekly classes for a month. Capoeira costs R$100 for a month. Stomping ground for Rio’s bohemian Call to discuss your individual access re- crowd, Santa Teresa has a growing quirements for a dance class. For accessibil- number of handicraft shops and vintage ity information, see p101. stores, with some enticing restaurants and cafes that add to the appeal. In Lapa you’ll find Rua do Lavradio, the city’s best antiques street. It’s at its liveliest on the first Saturday of the month. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 105

Barra da Tijuca & Western Rio

Neighborhood Top Five 1 Strolling through 2 Basking on the wide 4 Delving into Brazil’s tropical rainforest, enjoy- golden sands of Praia da rich folk-art traditions at ing memorable views from Barra da Tijuca (p107). the impressive Casa do rocky lookouts and recover- 3 Exploring the lushly Pontal (p109). ing beneath cool waterfalls decadent gardens of Sítio 5 Looking for wildlife in the Floresta da Tijuca Burle Marx (p107). in the peaceful, acces- (p108). sible trails of the Parque Ecológico Chico Mendes (p109).

la e s r a o s d e m t E ANIL a A n s a d a t 1# r a r h r i a t n

s i d E de Ban L a CAMORIM d GARDÊNIA e

J

AZUL a Serra do s c e a a FURNAS Nogueira t n r VARGEM n e a a n c GRANDE ir e e p ju e d S a i d n g T n le n u a a l o á d B A Lagoa de t ITANHANGÁ o

s r do r i VARGEM Jacarepaguá y ada o R A Lagoa PEQUENA str ad E lv v da Tijuca a Itanhangá Bosque A S o v da Barra BARRA DA Golf Club ortad A Amér l do C das icas TIJUCA Cana Av Canal de Mar

3# Parque apendi

oa de Marapendi (9km)D RECREIO DOS do Marapendi Lag 2# Costa BANDEIRANTES Av Lúcio 4Canal4das Taxas4444444444Praia 4de

Praia do Joatinga

5# Recreio dos 4# D Bandeirantes

44Prainh4a Ponta44444444444 (3km) Tim Maia A T L A N T I C 44444 O C E A N

# 0 5 km e 0 2.5 miles

For more detail of this area see Map p158 A 106 Lonely Planet’s Accessible Top Tip Explore Barra da Tijuca & Lots of new development Western Rio and renovation is currently The Miami of Rio, Barra da Tijuca is a sprawling sub- underway here, making urb with huge malls and entertainment complexes, long Barra one of Rio’s most traffic corridors and very little pedestrian movement. accessible areas; space, Barra – as it’s known locally – is also where much of shopping and luxurious the 2016 Summer Olympics will take place. The beach hotels are easy to find. here is the real attraction, a wide and lovely 15km-long Watch out, though: with stretch of shoreline. everything being quite far The commercial area feels quite different from other apart, taxis and private parts of Rio, as Barra’s development happened relatively drivers tend to be a drain on recently. The middle class first began moving here in the resources. 1970s, when cariocas (residents of Rio) fled crowded, crime-ridden streets to live on an unpopulated stretch of beachfront. Today, the influx of new residents is creating Getting There & crowded, problematic conditions once again. Away While first-time visitors to Rio don’t always make it Taxis are currently the to Barra da Tijuca, there are some intriguing sights here best bet for anyone with aside from the beach. The Sítio Burle Marx (p107) con- access issues. Beware: in tains some of the city’s most picturesque gardens, while Barra da Tijuca & Wes da Tijuca Barra bad traffic, getting back to the Casa do Pontal (p109) houses a fascinating collec- Copacabana can cost more tion of folk art. than R$100. Once you get beyond the development of Barra, the region gets less and less urban, and you’ll soon feel like Metrô The new linha 4 (line you’re deep in the tropics. Some of Rio’s best beaches lie 4) promises to connect out this way. There are also great restaurants in idyllic Barra da Tijuca to Ipanema settings where you can feast on seafood while watching and will be fully accessi- crashing waves, all of which seems a far cry from busy ble. It will run from Jardim downtown Rio. Oceânico station (eastern Barra) to São Conrado,

t Antero de Quental (Leblon), ern R ern Jardim de Alah (Leblon), Local Life NS da Paz (Ipanema) and ¨Hangouts Even party people from the Zona Sul will

io General Osório (Ipanema make the trip out to Don Pascual (p109), one of Rio’s

and Copacabana), but was

loveliest restaurants, set high in the trees. A taxi and  not yet complete at the time companionship are must-haves here: it’s in the middle of writing. of nowhere with a steep ramp. ¨Beaches The western beaches are quite stunning, particularly Joatinga, Prainha and Grumari. ¨Shopping You’ll find plenty of it here, in big, beautiful and boastful centers with air-conditioning to die for. 107 CP DC PRESS / SHUTTERSTOCK © Barra da Tijuca & Wes da Tijuca Barra

Parque Olímpico

1 SIGHTS Games. You’ll find seven arenas here: the tennis center, the aquatics stadium, the Unless otherwise noted, the following do velodrome and separate arenas for basket- not have accessibility features for those ball, judo and wrestling, handball, fencing

with hearing or visual impairments. and tae kwon do. After the Olympics, the t ern R ern city has plans to convert some of the arenas PRAIA DA BARRA DA TIJUCA BEACH into training facilities, while others will be

Map p158 (Av Lúcio Costa, Recreio dos dismantled and used to construct public io

Bandeirantes) The best thing about Barra is schools. Si ghts the beach. It stretches for 12km, with the Based on the London 2012 Olympic lovely blue sea lapping at the shore. The Park model, this park will be a haven for first few kilometers of its eastern end are all those who require access during the filled with bars and seafood restaurants. Games, with trained staff, step-free ac- The young and hip hang out in front of cess, accessible bathrooms, visual strips barraca (stall) No 1, in an area known as and tactile flooring. Commentary will be Praia do Pepê, after the famous carioca signed by interpreters. hang-gliding champion who died during a competition in Japan in 1991. Like any SÍTIO BURLE MARX GARDENS beach, it is not the most accessible attrac- (%021-2410-1412; [email protected]; Es- tion, although on weekends Praia Para To- trada da Barra de Guaratiba 2019, Guaratiba; ad- dos provides additional equipment, such mission R$10; htours 9:30am & 1:30pm Tue-Sat) as beach ramps and wheelchairs, to enable This 35-hectare estate was once the home of Rio’s disabled community to join in the fun. Brazil’s most-famous landscape architect, They also run sporting events and the odd Roberto Burle Marx. The estate’s lush veg- party. etation includes thousands of plant species, some of which are rare varieties from dif- PARQUE OLÍMPICO LANDMARK ferent corners of the globe. A 17th-century (Map p158) This is the epicenter of the 2016 Benedictine chapel also lies on the estate, Summer Olympics and the Paralympic along with Burle Marx’s original farmhouse 108

FLORESTA DA TIJUCA – PARQUE NACIONAL DA TIJUCA

All that’s left of the Atlantic rainforest that once surrounded Rio de Janeiro is Parque Nacional da Tijuca (www.parquedatijuca.com.br; h8am-5pm). This 120-sq-km tropi- cal jungle preserve is an exuberant green, with beautiful trees, creeks and waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks. It has an excellent, well-marked trail system. Candomblistas (practitioners of the Afro-Brazilian religion of Candomblé) leave offer- ings by the roadside, families have picnics, and serious hikers climb the 1012m to the summit of Pico da Tijuca. The heart of the forest is the Alto da Boa Vista area in the Floresta (Forest) da Tijuca, which has many lovely natural and human-made features. Among the high- lights of this beautiful park are several waterfalls (Cascatinha de Taunay, Cascata Gabriela and Cascata Diamantina), a 19th-century chapel (Capela Mayrink) and numerous caves (Gruta Luís Fernandes, Gruta Belmiro and Gruta Paulo e Virgínia). Also in the park is a lovely picnic spot (Bom Retiro) and two restaurants – the ele- gant Restaurante Os Esquilos and Restaurante a Floresta near the ruins of Ruínas do Archer (Major Archer’s House). The park is home to many different bird and animal species, including iguanas and monkeys, which you might encounter on one of the excellent day hikes you can make here; the trails are well signed. Good, free trail maps are given out at the park entrance.

Barra da Tijuca & Wes da Tijuca Barra The entire park closes at sunset. It’s best to go by car, and hiring a driver with an accessible car (or a special taxi) is recommended. The best route by car is to take Rua Jardim Botânico two blocks past the Jardim Botânico (heading east from Gávea). Turn left on Rua Lopes Quintas and then follow the Tijuca or Corcovado signs for two quick left turns until you reach the back of the Jardim Botânico, where you turn right. Then follow the signs for a quick ascent into the forest, past the picturesque lookout points of Vista Chinesa and Mesa do Impera- dor. As soon as you seem to come out of the forest, turn right onto the main road and you’ll see the stone columns to the entrance of Alto da Boa Vista on your left after a couple of kilometers. You can also drive up to Alto da Boa Vista by heading out to São Conrado and turning right up the hill at the Parque Nacional da Tijuca signs. Coming

t from Barra da Tijuca, take Estrada da Barra da Tijuca north, which eventually turns ern R ern into Rua da Boa Vista, from which there are entrances into the park. The forest is far from perfectly accessible, although some parts of it can be ac-

io cessed. There are reserved parking spaces for those with disabilities, and ramps

from them that lead to the entrance. Although not all pathways are smooth (as would Si ghts be expected in a rainforest), access ramps are available in places. Much of the park is lacking in aids and equipment for those who are visually impaired: there are very few directional signposts, and not much in the way of visually contrasting areas or tactile flooring. Bathrooms are on the narrow side and may prove tough for those with reduced mobility. The bathrooms in the restaurants may be your best bet. In short, a manual-wheelchair user might need a strong companion to enjoy this place to the full.

and studio, where you can see displays of terrain may prove tricky in places as not paintings, furniture and sculptures by the all paths are as smooth as wheelchair us- talented designer. Tours are by advance ers would like. An electric cart is available appointment only. On the downside, it’s a for guided tours (book in advance; English- very long drive to get out here (either take a speaking guides available) for those who costly taxi or go by private vehicle, making wish to use it and are able to self-transfer. sure you have a good map or GPS). You’re Not all areas are fully accessible, and bath- not allowed to wander on your own and rooms may not be suitable for those who there’s no food at the museum. are unable to transfer unaided: the space is The entrance to Sitio Burle Marx is acces- small and there are no grab-rails. sible, as are various buildings inside. The 109 PARQUE ECOLÓGICO 5 EATING CHICO MENDES PARK Map p158 (%021-2437-6400; Km 17, Av Jarbas de Far from the bustling streets of central Carvalho 679, Recreio dos Bandeirantes; h8am- Rio, one can find some of the city’s 5pm Tue-Sun) This 40-hectare park was cre- more rustic dining experiences, such ated in 1989 and named after the Brazilian as open-air spots with beautiful views ecological activist who was murdered for complemented by fresh seafood. Places his work. The park protects the remaining in Barra and western Rio are best sand-spit vegetation from real-estate specu- reached by private transport. For totally lators. The facilities include a visitor center accessible options, one of Barra’s lavish and ecological trails that lead to a small shopping centers is probably your best lake. There is also an observatory in the bet; you’ll save money on a long drive, park. Call ahead to schedule a tour. too. Careful thought has gone into providing Unless otherwise noted, the following accessibility for visitors at Chico Mendes. do not have accessibility features Adapted park wheelchairs are available for for those with hearing or visual hire from reception, and there are trail cir- impairments. cuits with a guide cable so that visually im- CONTEMPORARY paired visitors can walk through the park DON PASCUAL $$$ % without the assistance of a companion. ( 021-2428-6237; www.donpascual.com.br; Several of the trails are also wheelchair- Estrada do Sacarrão 867, Vargem Grande; mains h accessible. Bilingual signs are present R$62-92; noon-1am) Don Pascual has un- throughout (helpful for those who are hard deniable charm. Amid lush scenery you’ll & Wes da Tijuca Barra of hearing). The bathrooms have level en- dine on open-sided wooden decks, listening try, but are rather small, especially for those to the sounds of birdsong and perhaps spy- who require assistance with transferring. ing a toucan flitting past. Not surprisingly, by night it’s all couples at the candlelit ta- CASA DO PONTAL MUSEUM bles. The food is good – juicy picanha (beef Map p158 (%021-2490-4013; www.museucasado rump), moquequinha de frutas do mar pontal.com.br; Estrada do Pontal 3295, Recreio dos (seafood and coconut stew) and ravioli de Bandeirantes; admission permanent collection/ cordeiro (lamb ravioli) – but not quite as temporary exhibits R$10/4; h9:30am-5pm Tue- dazzling as the ambience. The only problem Fri, 10:30am-6pm Sat & Sun) Owned by French is it’s hard to get to; call ahead for specific designer Jacques Van de Beuque, this im- directions. You can also spend the night, or t pressive set of more than 5000 pieces is one simply arrive early and go for a dip in the R ern of the best folk-art collections in Brazil. The pool. A taxi from the center of Barra costs around R$60. assorted artifacts are grouped according to io theme, such as music, Carnaval, religion and Accessibility is not the best, but the trip E folklore. The grounds of the museum are is worth it if you are able to manage. The at surrounded by lush vegetation. restaurant is up a rainforest-like track, al- i ng With its lovely atmosphere, Casa do Pon- though a taxi can drive most of the way, tal is an accessible haven in Barra. It has a leaving a medium-gradient pathway and gravel parking lot, a step-free entrance and two steps to navigate in order to reach the free entry for personal assistants. There is front door. Inside, it’s step-free and surpris- good natural light and some visual contrast ingly spacious, with a choice of indoor and strips around certain artwork collection outdoor seating. English menus are avail- columns. This deceptively large space is lev- able, and the lovely staff will do all they can el throughout and has a modern platform to make your night enjoyable. Note that the lift leading to the 2nd floor. An accessible restaurant is rather dark, as it’s lit mostly bathroom is available across the parking by candles. lot, up a steep ramp, with a wide doorway, a Accommodations here are good only if grab-rail and room for side transfers. Casa you are able to negotiate a few steps and do Pontal is working on providing audio narrow doorways. The bathroom in ‘Galle- tours for different exhibitions, especially for ria 1’ has a wider doorway and would be the English speakers. It’s worth calling to check best choice for those with reduced mobility. on their progress. 110 BIRA SEAFOOD $$$ music hall, a cinema and a restaurant. It’s (%021-2410-8304; Estrada da Vendinha 68A, home to the Brazilian Symphony Orches- Barra de Guaratiba; mains for 3 people R$190- tra, and features a wide-ranging repertoire, 300; hnoon-5pm Thu-Sun) Splendid views including contemporary dance, puppet await diners who make the trek to Bira. On shows, jazz, musicals, choral recitals and a breezy wooden deck, diners can partake experimental ensembles. in the flavorful, rich seafood served in huge The complex is totally wheelchair- portions – big enough for three. It’s located accessible, with an elevator leading to the about 35km west of Rio in the marvelous 2nd floor and panoramic views. There seaside setting of Barra da Guaratiba, 45 are specifically allocated wheelchair to 80 minutes from the city, depending on spaces within the theaters and both the traffic. bathrooms and restaurant are spacious, Situated on one floor, this restaurant has although there are no English menus. a fixed ramp at its entrance. English menus There are no resources for those with sen- are available. There are two steps leading to sory impairments. the spacious bathroom. CITIBANK HALL CONCERT VENUE Map p158 (%021-4003-5588; Av Ayrton Senna 3000, Barra da Tijuca) Rio’s largest (6000- 6 DRINKING & seat) concert house tends to change names NIGHTLIFE every few years, but continues to host top international and Brazilian bands, as well

Barra da Tijuca & Wes da Tijuca Barra In terms of its drinking and nightlife, as ballet, opera and Broadway shows. The Barra still has a way to go in terms hall is in the Via Parque Shopping Center. of accessibility (although this may Purchase tickets through Tickets for Fun change come Games time). For the (p23). most accessible experience, although With an accessible entrance, two floors not particularly authentic, hotel bars connected by a spacious elevator, and and cocktail menus in shopping mall fully accessible and adapted bathrooms, restaurants are a good choice. Don Citibank Hall is a welcome change for Pascual (p109) does a mean Brandy anyone with a mobility impairment. The Alexander. automated voice message to the box office even states that those with disabilities are BALADA MIX BAR t welcomed and fully catered for. As for most ern R ern % Map p158 ( 021-2491-6222; Av Érico Verís- venues, those with visual and hearing im- aW simo, 843, Loja B, C, Barra da Tijuca; ) This pairments should call to discuss suitable restaurant-cum-bar has a gorgeous outside io seating arrangements and the possibility of seating area, a welcoming vibe and a small audio description or interpretation. D r ramp inside. Minimalist and funky decor i

nk i really sets the place off at night, and ‘atten- UCI – NEW YORK CITY CENTER CINEMA tion buzzers’ at each table mean you can Map p158 (%021-2461-1818; Av das Américas ng grab a waiter’s attention without leaving 5000, New York City Center, Barra da Tijuca) &Ni ghtl your seat. A fantastic accessible toilet sits in UCI – New York City Center is Brazil’s larg- the corner of the outside area and staff are est megaplex, featuring 18 screening rooms more than willing to help when required. complete with large, comfortable chairs Delirium cafe next door has one of the and stadium seating. Films are screened finest selection of beers in Rio, although the i constantly (every 10 minutes on weekends). fe bathroom is not accessible. The elevator up to the complex has Braille buttons but is quite small – those with larger power chairs may struggle. All screens are accessible, with two wheelchair 3 ENTERTAINMENT spaces per screen. Tickets are half-price for CIDADE DAS ARTES PERFORMING ARTS those with disabilities and are sold from Map p158 (%021-3325-0102; www.cidadedas lowered, preferential ticketing desks. Staff artes.org; Av das Americas 5300, Barra da Tijuca) are extremely accommodating and happy Rio’s grandest new arts complex is a R$500 to carry food and drinks – also able to be million venture that houses an 1800-seat ordered at a lowered food counter – to the concert hall, as well as theaters, a chamber screen. The accessible toilets (situated with- 111 in the gendered bathrooms) are spacious, FASHION MALL MALL with grab-rails and room for side transfer. (%021-2111-4427; www.fashionmall.com.br; Es- Subtitles and audio description programs, trada da Gávea 899, São Conrado; h10am-10pm when available, are in Portuguese only. Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun) Rio’s most beautiful mall features luxe retailers – Fred Perry, Rolex and others – plus all of Brazil’s most recognizable brands. It’s in the upper-class 7 SHOPPING neighborhood of São Conrado. Barra da Tijuca is a kingdom of shopping BARRA SHOPPING MALL malls; each offers something slightly Map p158 (%021-4003-4131; Av das Américas different from the one next door. All 4666, Barra da Tijuca; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, of them provide great accessibility for 1-9pm Sun) Rio’s largest mall (and one of the those with restricted mobility, with biggest on the continent) is an easy place to elevators, accessible bathrooms and shop away a few hours – or days – as do 30 easy-access restaurants and shops in million shoppers each year. More than 500 abundance – great for a rainy day or a stores clutter this 4km-long stretch, which break from Olympic and Paralympic also includes five movie screens, a kids’ madness. Barra Shopping is arguably parkland and a wealth of dining options. the most consistent in terms of access and inclusion, with the option to go to RIO DESIGN CENTER SHOPPING CENTER the UCI megaplex next door without Map p158 (%021-2430-3024; www.riodesign having to leave the building. Those

barra.com.br; Av das Américas 7777, Barra da Ti- & Wes da Tijuca Barra with sensory impairments may still juca; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun) This struggle to find hearing loops, tactile architecturally rich center features a num- flooring or visual aids, although further ber of excellent home-furnishing stores sell- accommodations are planned in the run- ing designer lamps, vases, decorative pieces up to the 2016 Games. and furniture. It also has some very good restaurants and a few art galleries. VILLAGE MALL Map p158 (%021-3003-4177; www.shopping VIA PARQUE SHOPPING SHOPPING CENTER villagemall.com.br; Av das Américas 3900, Barra Map p158 (%021-2430-5100; www.shoppingvia da Tijuca; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) parque.com.br; Av Ayrton Senna 3000, Barra da This shopping behemoth is Rio’s most ex- h

Tijuca; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) With t travagant mall, with high-end retailers 200 stores, six movie theaters and an abun- R ern such as Prada, Cartier, Tiffany, Miu Miu, dance of restaurants, this shopping center Michael Kors and Burberry, as well as an is the heart of Rio’s thriving consumer io Apple store. culture. The center also houses one of the

city’s big, busy and diverse concert arenas, S hopp Citibank Hall (p110). i ng ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 112

Sleeping

Rio has a wide range of lodging options, including boutique B&Bs, trendy hostels and bohemian guesthouses; there are scores of luxury hotels, particularly in Copacabana, and these are likely to be the most accessible of the bunch. Prices are expected to rise during major events such as Carnaval and the 2016 Games.

Hotels Apartment Rentals Despite Rio’s growing popularity, the city’s The best way to save money in Rio is to rent hotel scene is lackluster. The majority of an apartment. There are numerous rental hotels are in glass and steel high-rises, with outfits in Ipanema and Copacabana, though marble- and chrome-filled lobbies, and com- you can also go through Airbnb (www.airbnb. fortable but uninspiring rooms. The best com). This site allows you to rent a whole feature will be the view (if there is one) and apartment or simply a room in a shared the door by which to exit the room and ex- flat, making it a good way to meet cariocas plore this fascinating city. Amenities to look (residents of Rio). With a good, personal ser- for include pools, wi-fi (usually free except in vice, it’s also a great way to ask for specific some luxury hotels, which charge exorbitant needs to be met. For example, the owner of rates) and beach service (towels, chairs and the apartment may be able to hire a hoist for attendants). the duration of your stay and add this into the cost. Beware though: it is rare for rental Hostels agency websites to have an accessibility fil- ter, so have an email template outlining your With more than 200 hostels scattered around needs and prepare to send it far and wide. the city, Rio does not lack for budget lodging. If you book an apartment through an Hostels are great settings for meeting other agency, nightly high-season rates start travelers. With more and more Brazilians around R$200 for a small studio apartment traveling, your dorm mate is just as likely to in Copacabana and R$350 in Ipanema. Typi- be from Porto Alegre as they are from Perth. cally, you’ll need to pay 30% to 50% up front; Rio’s hostels range in price and style, and some agencies accept credit cards, others use subcultures dominate. For a bohemian vibe, Paypal. Make sure you ask whether utilities try Santa Teresa; for the nightlife scene, look and cleaning fees are included in the price. around Lapa, Copacabana and Ipanema. And Reputable outfits include: for something totally different, stay in a hos- tel located in a favela. For those requiring Rio Spot Homes (riospothomes.com) step-free access and close proximity to the Ipanema for Rent (%021-2267-5264) Games, the Barra region will be your best bet. Blame It on Rio 4 Travel (www.blameiton Failing this, anywhere in Zona Sul should be rio4travel.com) able to cater for your needs, but expect to pay (www.rioapartments.com) the price. Rio Apartments 113 Prices & Reservations Rooms with an ocean view cost about 30% NEED TO KNOW to 50% more than rooms without. During the summer (December through March), Price Ranges hotel rates typically rise by about 30%, and Prices are for double many places book up well in advance, so it’s rooms, except for hostels wise to reserve ahead. There’s no getting with only dorm beds, in Sleeping around it: prices double or triple for New which case the price is Year’s Eve, Carnaval and major events, such for one person in a dorm as the Olympics. Most accommodations, in- bed (as is often the case

cluding hostels, will only book in four- or

 with accessible rooms in seven-day blocks around these times. It’s less-accessible cities, the never too early to book for Carnaval; better accommodations listed places fill up to a year in advance. Don’t for- in this chapter are rather get that each hotel is likely to have three to pricey). four accessible rooms at best, so get book- ing! $ less than R$200 $$ R$200 to R$500 Breakfast $$$ more than R$500 Nearly every guesthouse, hostel and hotel Room Tax serves some form of café da manha (break- Keep in mind that many fast). At cheaper places, this may only be hotels add between 5% a roll, some bread and instant coffee; bet- and 15% in taxes and ter places serve fresh fruit, juices, strong service charges. Cheaper coffee, yogurt, cheese, cured meats, fresh places don’t generally bread and perhaps cooked eggs. Oddly, bother with this. Be sure Rio’s most expensive lodgings often charge to read the fine print for breakfast. In terms of access, staff in ho- when booking. tels are willing to provide help and support with breakfast orders. Websites ¨¨Airbnb (www.airbnb. com) Thousands of apartment listings across Rio. ¨¨Couchsurfing (www. couchsurfing.com) More than 10,000 hosts in Rio, and an active meet-up community. ¨¨Booking (www.book ing.com) Generally the best deals for hotels and guesthouses, and equipped with a useful accessibility filter. ¨¨Lonely Planet (lonely planet.com/brazil/ rio-de-janeiro/hotels) Extensive hotel reviews and online booking. 114 Where to Stay

Neighborhood For Against Ipanema & Leblon Great location near the beach Pricier than other locations. and the lake, with Rio’s best Fewer options than Copacabana.

Sleeping restaurants and bars in the vicin- ity. Great views possible: ocean, lake or possibly Corcovado. Most high-end options (and some hostels) offer accessible rooms

.and assistance  Copacabana & Leme Wealth of lodging possibilities Nightlife more limited than packed into a long, narrow high- Ipanema or Botafogo. Very tour- rise-lined neighborhood. Proxim- isty; some cariocas (residents ity to the beach. Good transport of Rio) avoid it. Sex tourism in connections to other parts of the some parts; tourist-trap restau- city. Good restaurants and bars. rants along Av Atlântica. Although touristy, it is one of the best areas to ensure accessibil- ity at a good price. Botofogo & Urca Good neighborhood with res- Not within walking distance of taurants, bars and nightclubs the beach. Noisy, traffic-clogged that attract a local crowd. Some avenues. Few attractions. accessible Airbnb apartments exist in this area. Flamengo & Around Better prices than the beachside Few options, mostly budget. Very districts. few restaurants and bars, and very little nightlife. Limited op- tions in terms of accessibility Santa Teresa & Lapa Santa Teresa is a charming Santa Teresa is far from the bohemian district with great beaches, and has poor transport architecture and alternative, art- links. Lapa is unappealing and minded residents. Has a handful gritty by day. Exceedingly diffi- of good restaurants and drinking cult to find accessible accommo- spots. Lapa is the epicenter of dations or attractions here. Rio’s samba-fueled nightlife. Barra da Tijuca & Great beaches with a laid-back Long commutes into town. No Western Rio vibe. Due to vast improvements neighborhood vibe; most locals and extensions for the 2016 use cars to get places. Games, Barra’s new hotels and hostels offer great accessibility, with transport to the nearby Games venues being cheap and effective. 115 ACCESSIBLE for the style set and celebrity crowd: Lady Gaga, Kate Moss, Will Smith and Madonna ACCOMMODATIONS have all been guests. Here are 10 of Rio’s most accessible hotels. If you’re looking for a truly accessible It is worth mentioning that, by law in Bra- and inclusive hotel experience in Rio, this is zil, assistance dogs are allowed in any of the place to be. Very few hotels in Rio have

these establishments. made adjustments for people with hearing Sleeping and visual impairments, but the Fasano is a notable exception. Although it is a rela- 4 Ipanema & Leblon tively dark hotel – with curtains splitting up areas and dark wooden surfaces com-

HOTEL $$$ pleting most of the design – cleaning staff  IPANEMA &LEBLON SHERATON (%021-2529-1122; www.sheraton-rio.com; Av are trained in disability awareness, so they Niemeyer 121, Vidigal; d from R$820; aiWs) blink the lights instead of knocking for a The Sheraton is a resort hotel, with large, guest who is hard of hearing, and are care- peaceful grounds. Every room has a bal- ful not to move possessions around too cony, facing either Leblon and Ipanema or much for those with visual impairments. verdant greenery. The rooms are nicely fur- There are no hearing loops and objects nished in a cozy, contemporary style. You’ll don’t particularly contrast, but vibrating enjoy a nearly private beach in front, plus alarm clocks and blinking phones are avail- tennis courts, swimming pools and a good able. For those with mobility impairments, health club. The main drawback is that it’s there are two flat entrances and two spe- far from the action. cifically accessible rooms, but all suites also For those with mobility impairments, have accessibility features. All bathrooms this huge hotel has a medium-gradient are large, as is the restaurant, which is also ramped entrance, a lowered reception desk, equipped with a lowered bar. And there are six large elevators and flat access into all bar chairs rather than stools, so everyone is of the lounges, treatment rooms and res- at the same height. The elevators are rather taurants. Both the gym and beauty salon small, as is the turning circle once up the are accessible. The rooms are spacious with ramp at the rooftop pool. But wow – the great desks and wet rooms. However, the view is worth it! changing rooms in the spa area are neither large nor discreet and, although the outside pool is ramped, visitors who are unable to 4 Copacabana & Leme manage steps won’t be able to access the beach from the hotel until alternative ac- WINDSOR ATLANTICA HOTEL $$$ cess is built later this year (hopefully in Map p145 (%021-2195-7800; www.windsor time for the Games). No equipment is avail- hotels.com; Av Atlântica, 1020, Copacabana; d able for those who are hard of hearing and, from R$680; aWs) A favorite among ath- aside from Braille buttons and bilingual letes and those on business, the Windsor floor-indicator audio in elevators, the same Atlantica provides an upmarket stay in a can be said for visually impaired people. location that simply could not be better – or nearer to the beaches and restaurants of HOTEL FASANO HOTEL $$$ Copacabana. Map p142 (%021-3202-4000; www.fasano.com. This is arguably one of the best hotels br; Av Vieira Souto 80, Ipanema; d from R$1660; in Rio for wheelchair users or anyone with aiWs) Designed by Philippe Starck, reduced mobility, but there are no facilities the Fasano has 91 sleek rooms set with readily available to aid guests with visual Egyptian-cotton sheets, goose-down pil- or hearing impairments. Two flat entrances lows and high-tech fittings. The best rooms lead guests into the hotel lobby, with plenty have balconies overlooking the crashing of staff on hand to help with bags and res- waves of Ipanema Beach, which lies just ervations. The marble flooring is great to across the road. Rooms without a view maneuver on, and the spacious lobby has simply don’t justify the price. The lovely plenty of room for business meetings or rooftop pool (open to guests only) is truly family downtime. The elevators are sizable breathtaking. With stylish rooms, a great and have Braille buttons. The accessible location and a much-touted seafood res- rooms are light and airy, with wet rooms taurant and bar, this is the top destination 116 furnished with grab-rails and plenty of Breakfast staff are extremely attentive and space for side transfers. The pool and bar will happily assist you with collecting your area is gorgeous and flat. order. Hearing loops are not available and no visual contrast is evident. JW MARRIOTT HOTEL HOTEL $$$ Map p146 (%021-2545-6500; www.marriott. com; Av Atlântica 2600; d from R$1025; aWs) Sleeping 4 Botafogo & Urca Providing luxury and one of the best views of Copacabana from the rooftop pool, the HOSTEL CONTEMPOREANEO HOSTEL $$ Marriott is the place to stay if you enjoy Map p150 (%021-3495-1014; http://contempo plush glamour, sushi restaurants and live raneohostel.com.br; Rua Bambina 158; dm from

(BOTAFOGO &URCA jazz on weekends. R$375, wheelchair suite from R$1050; aW  The fact that vehicles can pull in right A five-minute walk from Botafogo Praia to the valet drop-off point immediately Shopping Center, this modern, funky hostel sets this hotel apart in terms of access. provides both single-sex and mixed dorms Two dropped and visually contrasting curb as well as private rooms with facilities. cuts also help guests into the accessible There is free wi-fi, lockers and TVs in some side entrance of the hotel. Bilingual signs rooms. Look forward to a free breakfast, a guide guests throughout and the staff are cool bar out front and a small but accessible very helpful and speak English. The Marri- communal kitchen. ott has two accessible rooms, and the large This hostel would be great for those with elevators leading to them are equipped reduced mobility who require slightly more with Braille buttons but no audible floor space, or for wheelchair users with a com- indicator. Although gorgeous and with panion. There are two moderate steps in- well-equipped wet rooms, these rooms are side and an adapted double room for those relatively dark and have plush carpets that with reduced mobility on the ground floor. will prove difficult for those using mobility Although accessible, it is a small room with aids. The restaurants and bars are spacious. little space to transfer. The adjoining wet There are visual alarm strips throughout room, however, is large and equipped with the hotel, but there are no facilities avail- grab-rails. Signs are bilingual and the staff able for those with hearing impairments. speak English, but there are no facilities for Two medium-gradient ramps lead to the the visually or hearing impaired. rooftop pool area, but you will need to ne- gotiate a step ladder to actually get into it. 4 GOLDEN TULIP CONTINENTAL HOTEL $$ Santa Teresa & Lapa % Map p145 ( 021-3545-5300; www.golden VILA GALÉ BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ tulipcontinental.com; R Gustavo Sampaio 320; Map p154 (%021-2460-4500; www.vilagale. d from R$370; aWs) Set a little back from com; Riachuelo 124, Lapa; r R$360-800; aWs) the beach and therefore slightly lower in Breathing new life into ragged Lapa, Vila price, the Golden Tulip offers a comfortable Galé – a high-end luxury chain from Por- stay in one of Leme’s loveliest streets. With tugal – invested some €35 million in this a pool, gym and fantastic breakfast each beautiful property. The spacious, well- morning, alongside friendly staff, this ho- appointed rooms are good value, and the tel is a great choice for families who aren’t best of them are set in a 19th-century build- looking for the luxury that bigger hotel ing overlooking a lovely pool. The rooms names bring. are quiet despite having the best of Rio’s With medium-gradient ramps leading to nightlife right outside the door. the hotel entrance, friendly door attendants With a convenient drop-off point, level on hand to assist, elevators with Braille entrance, trained staff, a stair lift (albeit buttons and audio floor indicators, and slow) and several modern elevators to help light and airy communal areas, this hotel navigate the property, this hotel is a dream will suit many. As well as ample circulation for those with mobility impairments. The space, the accessible bedrooms have desks 13 accessible rooms are huge, with fully at a perfect height for wheelchair users, equipped wet rooms. The pool outside has while wet rooms are equipped with grab- shallow steps with handy grab-rails. All rails and mirrors at an appropriate height. walls in the communal areas are contrasted 117 in white and brown paints. Braille buttons ing distance, food and shopping tempta- and audio floor indicators are available in tions are not far away either. A rooftop pool all elevators (although you might need to and gym are complemented by a business know your Portuguese numbers) and tac- center and large parking lot. tile flooring is installed by the elevators on A real winner in terms of accessibility, each floor. There are no large-print items, this hotel pretty much has it all, including

and no facilities available for those who are a hearing loop at the help desk. There are Sleeping hard of hearing. In the authentic but some- wide doors, lowered desks and level en- what run-down center of Rio, though, this trances, while the main reception area is place is a true gem. particularly spacious with a good amount of light. There are 16 accessible rooms, all

HOTEL $$ with lowered desks, added vanity desks and RIO & WESTERN TIJUCA DA  BARRA DA LAPA DESIGN HOTEL Map p154 (%021-2252-4237; http://www.dalapa an assistance button which prevents those hotel.com; Rua do Lavradio 200; d from R$250; who are hard of hearing from needing to W) Set in lively Lapa, this kooky and color- use the phone. The wet rooms are large ful little hostel will wow with its arty vibe enough for side transfer and have shower and communal atrium, where guests hang seats, grab-rails and large mirrors. There out drinking coffee or checking their email. are also double shower heads. Breakfast is complimentary, and there’s a The elevators are large, with Braille seating area in the atrium for all to enjoy. buttons and bilingual floor indicators. All And, of course, party central is right on the signs are bilingual and the staff are help- doorstep. ful and speak English. The pool outside One of the only accessible accommoda- has low-gradient steps and double railings, tions in Lapa, Da Lapa Design has a level as well as low sides for good out-of-chair entrance and a small accessible bathroom transfers. on the ground floor (with grab-rails, an angled mirror and room for side transfer BRISA BARRA HOTEL HOTEL $$ onto the toilet). An elevator with Braille Map p158 (%021-3433-6600; www.brisabarra buttons takes guests up to the 1st floor, hotel.com.br; Av Lúcio Costa 5700, Barra da Ti- leading to three accessible rooms, all with juca; d from R$340; aWs) This simple but well-equipped wet rooms. The bathroom extremely well-run hotel, with lovely, clean door may prove an obstacle for those in rooms and staff who cannot do enough to larger chairs, but can easily be taken off or help, features adults’ and children’s pools swapped for a sliding door. Staff are incred- out the front of the hotel with a lovely view ibly friendly and attentive. There’s no hear- of Barra beach. ing loop installed at reception. Although this hotel has no specific equipment for visually or hearing-impaired guests, it is extremely accessible for wheel- 4 Barra da Tijuca & chair users and those with mobility impair- ments. There are six accessible rooms, each Western Rio with plenty of space, a desk and a wet room HILTON BARRA HOTEL $$$ with grab-rails, a fixed shower head and an Map p158 (%021-3348-1000; www3.hilton.com; assistance telephone installed. Side transfer Av Embaixador Abelardo Bueno 1430, Jacarep- onto the toilet is possible if the door is shut. aguá; d from R$515; aWs) Located in the There are also three spacious elevators, two corporate heart of Barra and very close to medium-gradient ramps to the pool area the Olympic Park, the Hilton Barra pro- outside and bilingual signs and menus. The vides luxury and comfort in equal measure. staff are some of the most helpful in Rio. With huge shopping centers within walk- 118   YADID LEVY / ROBERT HARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©

Carnaval parade, Sambadrome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 119

Survival Guide

TRANSPORTATION �����120 DIRECTORY A–Z ��������125 GETTING TO Courses ������������������������������� 125 RIO DE JANEIRO �������������� 120 Electricity ��������������������������� 125 Air �����������������������������������������120 Embassies Land ��������������������������������������121 & Consulates �����������������������126 GETTING AROUND Emergency �������������������������126 RIO DE JANEIRO ���������������121 Gay & Lesbian Bicycle ����������������������������������121 Travelers �����������������������������126 Bus ����������������������������������������121 Internet Access �������������������126 Car ��������������������������������������� 122 Legal Matters ����������������������127 Metro ����������������������������������� 122 Medical Services ����������������127 Taxi ��������������������������������������� 123 Money ������������������������������������127 Train ������������������������������������� 123 Opening Hours �������������������128 Tram ������������������������������������� 123 Post ���������������������������������������128 TOURS ������������������������������123 Safe Travel ���������������������������128 City Tours ���������������������������� 123 Telephone ���������������������������128 Favela Tours ������������������������� 124 Time �������������������������������������129 Helicopter Tours ��������������� 124 Tourist ­Information �����������129 4WD Tours ��������������������������� 124 Travelers with Disabilities �����������������129 Visas �������������������������������������129 Volunteering �����������������������130 Women Travelers ���������������130

LANGUAGE ���������������� 131 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 120

Transportation

GETTING TO Getting To & From A charge of R$2 per piece of the Airport luggage also applies. More RIO DE JANEIRO expensive, slightly fancier Flying is the easiest way radio taxis charge a set fare to get to Rio, with some BUS of about RS$130 to Co- flights stopping first in São Premium Auto Ônibus (www.premiumautoonibus.com. pacabana or Ipanema. Taxis Paulo (one hour away). High- br; one way R$15) operates come in varying sizes and season prices for a return safe air-con buses from the all have sizable boot space ticket from gateways in international airport along for manual wheelchairs, but North America and Europe several different routes. For watch for the gas canisters typically run from US$900 the Zona Sul, take No 2018, in some that take up all the to US$1400. Long-distance which heads southward room. buses arrive in Rio from Chile through the bairros of Glória, If transferring into a vehi- and Argentina. Flamengo and Botafogo, and cle is difficult or not possible, Flights, cars and tours can along the beaches of Copac- 50 accessible taxis with elec- be booked online at www. abana, Ipanema and Leblon tronic ramps are available lonelyplanet.com. to Barra da Tijuca (and vice to enable wheelchair users versa) every 30 minutes to ride without transferring from 5:30am to 11pm and out of their chairs. Early Air will stop wherever you ask. booking is advised, although It takes 75 minutes to two assistance may be available Galeão (GIG) hours depending on traffic. at late notice at the airport Rio’s Galeão international Heading to the airports, you help desk. airport (Aeroporto Internac- can catch this bus from in Keep in mind that traffic ional Antônio Carlos Jobim; front of the major hotels can lead to long delays on www.riogaleao.com) is 15km along the main beaches, but the return journey to the air- north of the city center you have to look alive and port. Allow up to two hours on Ilha do Governador. It flag them down. during peak times (4pm to has left-luggage facilities, If you’re going straight to 7pm). an internet cafe, ATMs, Barra, it’s faster to take bus currency-exchange desks, No 2918 instead. There’s Santos Dumont and pharmacies as well as a also a bus that links to (SDU) few shops and restaurants. Santos Dumont Airport (No Aeroporto Santos Dumont, Members of staff are on 2101) and a line to the bus used by some domestic hand to help those with re- station (No 2145). flights, is by the bay in the duced mobility. Air bridges, For anyone who struggles city center, 1km east of aisle chairs, accessible with steps or uses a wheel- Cinelândia metro station. bathrooms and hire wheel- chair, Rio’s bus system is not It has ATMs, a few shops chairs are all available, but recommended. and an internet cafe. Having assistance should be booked recently won an accessibility in advance. TAXI From Galeão, yellow-and- award, Santos Dumont has blue comum (common) taxis all the access equipment and cost around R$65 to R$90 assistance that GIG has. to Copacabana or Ipanema, BUS depending on traffic (more Premium Auto Ônibus No on Sunday and late at night). 2018, which departs from 121 Galeão, stops at Santos A handful of travel agents hour and at various bike Dumont before continuing also sell bus tickets. Guana- shops along the bike path south to Copacabana and tur (%021-2548-3275; www. between Copacabana and Ipanema. Not recommended guanaturismo.com.br; Rua Dias Ipanema. for those who struggle to da Rocha 16A, Copacabana; For an excellent guided walk and transfer. h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon bike tour, contact Rio by Sat) and Dantur (%021- Bike (%021-96871-8933; Transpor TAXI 2557-7144; www.dantur.com.br; www.riobybike.com; tours From the domestic airport, Largo do Machado 29, loja 47, R$100-125). comun taxis cost about Flamengo; h9am-6:30pm Mon- % R$32 to Copacabana and Bike Rio ( 4021-003-6054; Fri, to 1pm Sat) sell tickets for www.mobilicidade.com.br/bike R$38 to Ipanema. A radio many lines. The commission taxi runs R$59 to Copaca- rio.asp) Pedal yourself around t

charge is R$6 per ticket. a bana and R$74 to Ipanema. Again, these buses may the city on bright orange bikes t prove tricky for wheelchair located at over 250 stations ion users, or those who find throughout Rio. After register- steps and standing tough, G

ing on the website, you can buy etti Land as they are usually cramped a monthly pass (R$10) or a day Long-Distance Bus and accessibility is not

pass (R$5). Instructions are in n

Buses leave from the sleek reliable. English at the stations and the g A Rodoviária Novo Rio bikes are released via mobile (%021-3213-1800; Av Francis- ro phone or app. The downside: co Bicalho 1), 2km northwest GETTING un of Centro. There’s a Riotur you can only register and use

AROUND d R desk here for city info. RIO DE JANEIRO the service if you have a Brazil-

ian mobile number. J de io A small booth near the Rio is a fairly easy city to exit at Novo Rio bus station navigate, with an efficient Velô Bike Store (Map p146; organizes the yellow taxis metro system, a public bike- %021-3442-4315; Francisco out the front. Sample fares

sharing system and hurtling Otaviano 20, Copacabana; a

(with one bag) are about n buses. The neighborhoods per hr/day R$15/70, electric R$50 to the international eiro themselves are perfect for h airport, R$40 to Copacabana bike per hr R$30; 9am- getting around on foot. For 7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, and Ipanema, and R$35 to those who require added Santa Teresa. mobility assistance, the 10am-4pm Sun) One of several You can buy bus tickets metro system and taxis are shops located on the cycle online at www.clickbus.com the best bet. path between Ipanema and or www.brasilbybus.com Copacabana. with a PayPal account. After purchasing, you’ll receive the booking reference and ticket Bicycle number. At the bus station, Rio has many kilometers of Bus you’ll enter these numbers at bike paths along the beach, Buses can be a great way to the self-service kiosks. Type around Lagoa and along see Rio and get around. in the booking number first, Parque do Flamengo. In addi- However, they are not press ‘avançar’, enter your tion to a public bike-sharing recommended if you are a ticket number, then press scheme, you can rent bikes wheelchair user or traveling ‘imprimir’ (print), and your from stands along the east alone, as they are not tickets will be printed. side of Lagoa Rodrigo de accessible. Freitas for around R$15 per

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometer per person than most cars but travel much

greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and par- ticles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. 122 City Bus Rental Rio’s new BRS (Bus Rapid Hiring a car is fairly simple as Metro System) features dedicated long as you have a driver’s Rio’s metro system (www. public transportation cor- license, a credit card and metrorio.com.br; h5am- ridors in Copacabana, a passport. Most agencies midnight Mon-Sat, 7am-11pm Ipanema, Leblon and Barra. require renters to be at least Sun) is an excellent way to Transpor Fares on most buses are 25 years old, though some get around. Both lines are around R$3.40. will rent (with an added fee) air-conditioned, clean, fast Every bus has its key des- to younger drivers. and safe. The main line goes tination displayed on the il- Prices start around R$120 from Ipanema-General Os- luminated signboard in front. per day for a car without ório to Saens Peña, connect- If you see the bus for you, air-conditioning, but they go t ing with the secondary line a hail it by sticking your arm down a bit in the low season. to Estácio (which provides t

ion straight out (drivers won’t If you are quoted prices on service to São Cristóvão, stop unless flagged down). the phone, make sure they Maracanã and beyond). The

G etti include insurance, which is main stops in Centro are compulsory. Cinelândia and Carioca. Car-rental agencies can An ambitious R$2.5 bil-

n Car be found at both airports or lion expansion should be g scattered along Av Princesa complete by June 2016. A A Driving & Parking Isabel in Copacabana. new line (linha 4) connects ro In the city itself driving can At the international be a frustrating experi- Ipanema to Barra daTijuca. It un airport, Hertz (%021-0800- ence even if you know your runs from General Osório to 701-7300; www.hertz.com), d R way around. Traffic snarls Jardim Oceânico with stops Localiza (%021-0800-979- in Ipanema, Leblon and São io and parking problems do 2000; www.localiza.com) and Conrado. A spur to Gávea

de not make for an enjoyable Unidas (%021-2295-3628; holiday. Be aware that Rio will eventually link it to the

J www.unidas.com.br) provide has extremely strict drink- rest of the line. a rentals. In Copacabana, You can purchase a

n driving laws, with a fine of among the many are Hertz eiro around R$2000 for those cartão pré-pago (prepaid (%021-2275-7440; Av Princesa with a blood-alcohol content card) from a kiosk in any Isabel 500) and Localiza metro station using cash (no

of over 0.06. Changing po- (%021-2275-3340; Av Princesa lice checkpoints are set up change given) with a mini- Isabel 150). nightly around the city. mum of R$5 or more. You can then recharge it at any kiosk. Free subway maps are available from most ticket booths. One of the best ways to METRO-BUS TICKETS travel for those with mobility needs, the metro system is The (www.metrorio.com.br) Metrô Na Superfície fully accessible, safe and ef- subway bus consists of modern, silver buses that ficient, with trained staff on make limited stops as they shuttle passengers to and hand to help at all times. For from metro stations. For most destinations, a one-way anyone who doesn’t speak metrô na superficie (surface metro) ticket costs the Portuguese, the signs in the same as a single metro ride (R$3.70) but includes both metro stations are also in the bus and the metro ride. English and the dual-line sys- The most useful one for travelers is the line to Jar- tem (for most of the city) is easy to navigate. Watch out: dim Botânico, which departs from Botafogo station. some elevators are locked It stops at Cobal do Humaitá, Rua Maria Angélica, the due to concerns about van- Hospital da Lagoa, the edge of Jardim Botânico, Praça dalism. SOS totems to alert Santos Dumont, Gávea Trade Center and PUC. guards are available, but You can also go to Barra by metro bus (the No 525 don’t always work. Ideally, Expresso Barra). This operates much like the metro na travel with a companion, but superficie, with limited stops, but covers a much larger if you’re on your own make distance. The integrated metro-bus ticket costs around friends with someone get- ting off at the same stop so R$5 and departs from Praça General Osório station, they can ensure you get up with stops at Posto 9 (Ipanema beach), Posto 12 (Leb- to ground level safely. lon beach), São Conrado Fashion Mall, Praia do Pepino Stations to love: General (São Conrado), Shopping Downtown, Barra Shopping Osorio (Ipanema), Siqueira and Casa Shopping, among others. Campos (Copacabana). 123 Stations to avoid: Cardeal Ar- 021-2585-5577; http://www. along a northwestern route, coverde (Copacabana), Saens especialcoop.com.br/) terminating at Largo das Neves. The longer route Pena (Centro). Coopertramo (%021-2209- (Dois Irmãos) continues 9292) from Largo do Guimarães Cootramo (%021-3976- uphill and southwest before 9944) terminating near the water Taxi Transpor Rio’s yellow taxis are preva- Transcoopass (%021-2209- reservoir at Dois Irmãos. lent throughout the city. 1555) They are generally a speedy Transcootour (%021-2590- way to zip around and are TOURS 2220) There are many ways to usually safe. The flat rate is experience Rio, whether by t around R$5.20, plus around a

helicopter, 4WD or good old- t R$2.05 per kilometer (and fashioned walking. ion R$2.50 per kilometer at Train

night and on Sunday). Radio T o taxis are 30% more expen- The suburban train station, Estação Dom Pedro II u

sive than regular taxis. No rs % City Tours one tips taxi drivers, but it’s (Central do Brasil; 021-2111- A number of private guides common to round up the 9494; Av Presidente Vargas, lead customized tours fare. If you have a smart- Praça Cristiano Ottoni, Centro), around the city, taking in phone, you can use a free is one of Brazil’s busiest the major sights, leading app like 99Taxis or Easy Taxi commuter stations, but it’s nightlife and organizing to hail a cab. Uber may also not the safest area to walk just about anything Rio has survive in Rio. around. To get there, take to offer. Depending on the In Rocinha and some the metro to Central station tour length, area covered other favelas, moto-taxis and head upstairs. This is and type of transport to get (basically a lift on the back the train station that was there, many city tours may of a motorcycle) are a handy featured in the Academy not be accessible to those way to get around, with short Award–nominated film with reduced mobility. As rides (usually from the bot- Central do Brasil (Central with all tours and guides, call tom of the favela to the top Station). Accessibility of or email beforehand to check or vice versa) costing R$2 the train network is being routes, transport and level (though they may ask R$5 improved for all passengers of access. It may be possible of foreigners!). These are no ahead of the 2016 Olympic to book smaller and more use for wheelchair users, but and Paralympic Games. private tours that are tailored may be a great way to get to your needs. around if you have reduced mobility but good balance. Brazil Expedition (%021- For a truly accessible taxi Tram 99998-2907; www.brazil experience, Especial Coop Rio was once serviced by a expedition.com; city tour multitude of bondes (trams), Taxis has a fleet of 50 taxis R$120) The friendly English- with electronic ramps to with routes throughout the city. The only remaining line speaking guides run a variety enable wheelchair users to of traditional tours around ride without transferring out is the bonde to Santa Teresa, of their chairs. As these ve- which partially reopened Rio, including trips to Cristo hicles are limited and in high (1.7km of its 10km of tracks) Redentor, nightlife outings to demand, it is advisable to in 2015. Currently, it begins samba schools, game-day trips book early. Regular taxis are at the bonde station (Lélio to Maracanã Football Stadium, great if you are able to trans- Gama 65) in Centro and trav- street-art tours and favela els over the scenic Arcos da fer and have a wheelchair tours. or other equipment that fits Lapa and along Rua Joaquim (%021- into a car boot. However, gas Murtinho only as far as Cur- Marcelo Esteves canisters are often found in velo before turning around. 99984-7654; marcelo.esteves@ taxi boots, which is a pain if This line is not wheelchair- hotmail.com; 5hr/8hr tour you are a wheelchair user as accessible. US$200/300) A highly expe- they take up a lot of valuable Work on the line contin- rienced multilingual Rio expert space! Many drivers speak ues, and it will eventually offering private tours around reach Largo do Guimarães little English, so know where the city. you want to go beforehand on Rua Almirante Alexan- (%021- and write it down. drino, in the heart of boho Madson Araújo Santa Teresa. From there, 99395-3537; www.tourguiderio. (%021- Especial Coop the tracks split with one line com; 5hr tour from US$350) 9809-1192, 021-9786-5591, (Paula Matos) continuing Professional English- and 124 French-speaking guide offer- association. He seems to know facing Corcovado; on Morro ing custom-made day or night everyone in the favela, and da Urca, the first cable-car tours around Rio. leads a warm and personalized stop up Pão de Açúcar; and tour that helps visitors see on the edge of Lagoa. If you are able to transfer into the beyond the stereotypes. helicopter, you will be able Be A Local (%021-9643- to take full advantage of Transpor Favela Tours Depending on the favela 0366; www.bealocal.com; tours this incredible (if expensive) and type of transport to get per person R$80) Offers daily adventure. The cable-car there, many favela tours may trips into Rocinha (you’ll ride stop at Pão de Açúcar is the not be accessible to those up by moto-taxi, and walk back easiest to access. with reduced mobility. Your

t down), with stops along the a best bet is to contact tour way. It also organizes a night t

ion groups via phone or email to out at a baile (dance) funk discuss your needs. A tour 4WD Tours party in Castelo das Pedras on Jeep Tour (%021-2108-

T o that is tailored to your needs might be possible. Sundays. 5800; www.jeeptour.com.br; u 4hr tour R$142) Tours go to

rs % Favela Tour ( 3322-2727; the Floresta da Tijuca in a www.favelatour.com.br; tour large, open-topped 4WD. It R$90) Marcelo Armstrong’s Helicopter Tours includes a stop at the Vista insightful tour pioneered favela Helisight (%021-2511-2141; Chinesa, then on to the for- tourism. His three-hour excur- www.helisight.com.br; per est for an easy hike and a sion takes in Rocinha and Vila person 6/15/30min flight stop for a swim beneath a Canoas. R$260/650/900) Offering waterfall, before making the helicopter tours since 1991, return journey. For those Paulo Amendoim Helisight has seven differ- able to transfer in and out of (%99747-6860; http:// ent itineraries, all giving a vehicle numerous times in favelatourrio.com; tour R$75) gorgeous views over the one day, this tour is a great Recommended guide Paulo city. There’s a three-person way to see a vast area. Con- Amendoim is the former presi- minimum. Helipad locations tact the company with fur- dent of Rocinha’s residents are in Floresta da Tijuca ther accessibility queries. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 125

Directory A–Z

casadocaminhobrasil.org) Copacabana, with a wide range Courses orphanages in Brazil. of courses as well as private instruction. Cooking Instituto Brasil-Estados Unidos (Map p146; IBEU; Cook in Rio (Map p146; % %021-8761-3653; www. 021-2548-8430; http:// Music cookinrio.com; 2nd fl, Belfort portuguese.ibeu.org.br; 5th Maracatu Brasil (Map p152; % Roxo 161; per person US$75) fl, NS de Copacabana 690, 021-2557-4754; www. There aren’t many cooking Copacabana; intensive 36hr maracatubrasil.com.br; 2nd classes available in English fl, Ipiranga 49, Laranjeiras; course R$1900) One of the old- h in Rio, other than this nota- 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) is the est, more-respected language- best place in Rio to study ble exception, which offers institutions in the city. one-day courses where percussion, and students you’ll learn how to make a Carioca Languages (Map have the opportunity to rich moqueca (seafood stew p146; %021-2146-8414; www. perform in music events cooked in coconut milk) or carioca-languages.com; room throughout the city. Instruc- a decadent pot of feijoada 201, NS de Copacabana 807, tors here offer courses in a number of different drum- (black beans and pork stew). Copacabana; 4-week, 60hr ming styles: Amazonian course R$1500) Located in rhythms, samba, conga Language Most language institutes charge high prices for group Portuguese courses. You Electricity can often find a private tutor for less. Hostels are a good place to troll for instructors, with ads on bulletin boards posted by native-speaking language teachers available for hire. Casa do Caminho Lan- guage Centre (Map p142; %021-2267-6552; www. casadocaminho-language centre.org; Farme de Amoedo 135, Ipanema; private class per hr R$70, 4-week, 80hr course R$1400; W) Offers com- petitively priced classes, with intensive group classes – four hours a day for five days for R$450. Profits go toward the Casa do Caminho (www. 110V/220Hz/60Hz 110V/220Hz/60Hz 126 drums, candomblé (Afro- brasil.gc.ca; 13th fl, Av Atlân- Brazilian music inspired by tica 1130, Copacabana) the Candomblé religion) and Gay & Lesbian French Consulate (%021- much more, plus private Travelers lessons in guitar and other 3974-6699; http://riode Rio is the gay capital of instruments. janeiro.ambafrance-br.org; Av Latin America. There’s no If you plan to stick around Presidente Antônio Carlos 58, law against homosexuality Directory A–Z Directory a while, you can sign up for Centro) in Brazil. During Carnaval, thousands of gay expatriate group classes (from R$165 a UK Consulate (%021-2555- Brazilians and foreign tour- month) or hire an instructor 9600; www.reinounido.org.br; for private classes. On the ists fly in for the festivities. 2nd fl, Praia do Flamengo 284, 1st floor of the building, Ma- Outside Carnaval, the gay racatu sells instruments. Flamengo) scene is fairly subdued. The US Consulate (%021-3823- most gay-friendly street in 2000; brazil.usembassy.gov; town is Farme de Amoedo in EMBASSIES &CONSULATES  Av Presidente Wilson 147, Ipanema, with cafes, restau- rants and drinking spots. Embassies & Centro) Consulates You may hear or read the abbreviation GLS, particu- Many foreign countries have larly in the entertainment consulates or embassies in section of newspapers and Rio. You’ll find consulates Emergency magazines. It stands for listed in the back of Riotur’s To call emergency telephone Gays, Lesbians and Sympa- monthly Guia do Rio. numbers in Rio you don’t thizers, and when used in need a phone card. Argentinian Consulate connection with venues or (%021-2553-1646; http://crioj. Ambulance (%192) events basically indicates cancilleria.gov.ar; 1st fl, Praia Fire Department (%193) that anyone with an open mind is welcome. In general, de Botafogo 228, Sobreloja, Police (%190) Botafogo) the scene is much more Tourist Police (%021- integrated than elsewhere; Australian Consulate 2332-2924; cnr Afrânio de and the majority of parties (%021-3824-4624; http:// Melo Franco & Humberto de involve a pretty mixed crowd. brazil.embassy.gov.au; 23rd Campos, Leblon; h24hr) The Rio Gay Guide (www. fl, Av Presidente Wilson 231, Report robberies to the tourist riogayguide.com) is an Centro) police; no major investigation is excellent website full of infor- mation for gay and lesbian Canadian Consulate going to occur, but you will get tourists in Rio, including (%021-2543-3004; www. a police form to give to your sections on Carnaval, night- insurance company. life and bathhouses.

PRACTICALITIES Internet Access Currency Most accommodations – including hostels and The monetary unit of Brazil is the real (R$; pronounced midrange hotels – provide hay-ow); the plural is reais (pronounced hay-ice). wi-fi access. It’s usually free, though some luxury hotels Newspapers & Magazines still charge exorbitant rates Rio Times (www.riotimesonline.com) is an English- for it. You’ll also find free language newspaper that publishes a monthly free wi-fi in most cafes and in print version, and maintains a website that’s updated many restaurants, as well as weekly. Veja is the country’s best-selling weekly maga- in some shopping malls. zine. In Rio, it comes with the Veja Rio insert, which Given the widespread availability of wi-fi and the details the weekly entertainment options; available on popularity of smartphones, Sunday. Jornal do Brasil and O Globo are Brazil’s lead- internet cafes are a vanish- ing dailies. ing breed, though there are still a few scattered around Smoking Copacabana and other Banned in restaurants and bars; some hotels have areas of the Zona Sul. Most rooms for smokers. places charge between R$6 and R$12 an hour. Weights & Measures Brazil uses the metric system. 127 @Onze (Marquês de Abrantes Copacabana 492, Copacabana; authorized withdrawals on 11, Flamengo; h9am-11:30pm) h24hr) The best hospital for their cards. When possible There’s no Skype, but this foreigners, with high-quality use high-traffic ATMs inside peaceful spot serves up tasty care and multilingual doctors bank buildings during bank- (who even make outpatient ing hours. Always cover your sandwiches, salads, desserts calls). The clinic works with hands when inputting your and microbrews you can enjoy most international health PIN, and check your account Directory A–Z Directory while browsing the web. plans and travel insurance frequently to make sure you Blame It on Rio 4 Travel policies. haven’t been hacked. (Map p146; %021-3813-5510; ATMs for most card net- www.blameitonrio4travel.com; Pharmacies works are widely available. Citibank, Bradesco, Banco Xavier da Silveira 15B, Copaca- Pharmacies stock all kinds do Brasil and the Banco- of drugs and sell them much bana) Excellent travel agency 24Horas all accept foreign more cheaply than in the run by a friendly and knowl- cards (Itaú does not). West. However, when buy-  LEGAL MATTERS edgeable US expat. Internet You can find ATMs in the ing drugs anywhere in South access available. following locations: America, be sure to check the expiration dates and Banco do Brasil With branches specific storage conditions. in Centro (Senador Dantas 105, Legal Matters Some drugs that are availa- Centro), Copacabana (Av NS ble in Brazil may no longer be You are required by law to de Copacabana 1292, Copaca- recommended, or may even carry some form of identi- bana) and Galeão international be banned, in other coun- fication. For travelers, this airport (1st fl, Terminal 1, tries. Common names of pre- generally means a passport, Galeão international airport). scription medicines in South but a certified copy of the America are likely to be dif- Citibank Branches in Centro relevant ID page will usually ferent from the ones you’re (Rua da Assembléia 100, be acceptable. used to; ask a pharmacist In the past few years, Rio Centro), Ipanema (Visconde before taking anything you’re has gotten serious about de Pirajá 260, Ipanema) and not sure about. drunk driving, and the Leblon (Visconde de Pirajá There are scores of phar- penalties for driving under 1260A, Leblon). macies in town, a number of the influence are severe. which stay open 24 hours. Marijuana and cocaine are Changing Money Drogaria Pacheco (Av NS plentiful in Rio, and both are For exchanging cash, casas de Copacabana 115, Copaca- very illegal. An allegation of de cambio (exchange of- h drug trafficking or posses- bana; 7am-11pm) fices) cluster behind the sion provides the police with Drogaria Pacheco (%021- Copacabana Palace Hotel in the perfect excuse to extract 2511-7871; Av Visconde de Copacabana and along Vis- a not-insignificant amount Pirajá 455, Ipanema; h7am- conde de Pirajá near Praça of money from you – and General Osório in Ipanema. Brazilian prisons are brutal 11pm) places. If you are arrested, know that you have the right Credit Cards to remain silent, and that Visa is the most widely ac- you are innocent until proven Money cepted credit card in Rio; guilty. You also have a right The monetary unit of Brazil MasterCard, American to visitation by your lawyer is the real (R$, pronounced Express and Diners Club are or a family member. hay-ow); the plural is reais also accepted by many ho- (pronounced hay-ice). tels, restaurants and shops. The real is made up of 100 Credit-card fraud is rife in centavos. Most prices are Rio so be very careful. When Medical Services quoted in reais, though some making purchases keep your Some private medical facili- tour operators and hoteliers credit card in sight at all ties in Rio de Janeiro are on prefer to list their rates in US times. Have staff bring the a par with US hospitals. The dollars or euros. machine to your table or fol- UK and US consulates have low them up to the cashier – lists of English-speaking ATMs don’t give them your card. physicians. ATMs are the handiest way to access money in Rio. Tipping Hospitals Unfortunately, there has In restaurants the serviço Clinica Galdino Campos been an alarming rise in (service charge) is usually (%021-2548-9966; www.gal card cloning, with travelers included in the bill and is dinocampos.com.br; Av NS de returning home to find un- mandatory; when it is not 128 included in the bill, it is which are available from customary to leave a 10% newsstands and street ven- tip. If a waiter is friendly and Safe Travel dors in denominations of helpful, you can give more. Rio gets a lot of bad interna- R$5 to R$20. There are many other tional press about violence, To phone Rio from outside places where tipping is not though security has gener- Brazil, dial your international customary but is a welcome ally improved in the last few access code, then %55 Directory A–Z Directory gesture. The workers at years. Regardless, to mini- (Brazil’s country code), %21 local juice stands, bars and mize your risk of becoming a (Rio’s area code) and the coffee corners, and street- victim, you should take some number. and beach-vendors, are all basic precautions. First off: To make a local collect tipped on occasion. Parking dress down and leave ex- call, dial %9090, then the assistants receive no wages pensive (or even expensive- number. For calls to other and are dependent on tips, looking) jewelry, watches cities, dial %0, then the code usually about R$4. Taxi driv- and sunglasses at home. of your selected long- OPENING HOURS ers are not usually tipped, Copacabana and Ipanema distance carrier, then the  but it is common to round up beaches have a police pres- two-digit area code, fol- the fare. ence, but robberies still lowed by the local number. occur on the sands, even in You need to choose a long- broad daylight. Don’t take distance carrier that covers anything of value with you both the place you are calling Opening Hours to the beach. Late at night, from and the place you’re don’t walk on any of the Standard opening hours in calling to. Carriers advertise beaches. Rio: their codes in areas where Buses are sometimes tar- Restaurants noon–3pm and they’re prominent, but you gets for thieves. Avoid taking can usually use Embratel 7–11pm them after dark, and keep an (code %21) or Telemar Bars noon–2am Monday to eye out while you’re on them. (code %31) nationwide. Saturday; some open Sunday Take taxis at night to avoid To make an intercity col- walking along empty streets as well lect call, dial %9 before the and beaches. Don’t walk Nightclubs 11pm–5am Thurs- 0xx (the ‘xx’ representing the around deserted areas – two-digit carrier as explained day to Saturday Centro is barren and can be above, ie ‘21’, ‘31’ or a host Shops 9am–6pm Monday to unsafe on Sunday. of other Brazilian carriers). Friday, 9am–1pm Saturday Get in the habit of carrying A recorded message in Por- only the money you’ll need tuguese will ask you to say Malls 10am–10pm Monday to for the day, so you don’t Saturday, 3–10pm Sunday your name and where you’re have to flash a wad of reais calling from, after the tone. Banks 9am–3pm Monday to when you pay for things. Friday Cameras and backpacks attract a lot of attention. Cell Phones Plastic shopping bags nicely The celular (cell phone) disguise whatever you’re is ubiquitous in Rio. Cell Post carrying. If headed to Marac- phones have nine-digit num- Postal services are decent anã stadium, take only your bers beginning with 9. in Brazil, and most mail gets spending money for the day Brazil uses the GSM through. Airmail letters to and avoid the crowded sec- 850/900/1800/1900 net- the US and Europe usually tions. Safety in the favelas work, which is compatible arrive in a week or two. For has improved, but it’s still with North America, Europe Australia and Asia, allow best to go with someone who and Australia, but the coun- three weeks. knows the area. try’s 4G LTE network runs on There are yellow mail- If you have the misfortune 2500/2690 (for now), which boxes on the street, but it’s of being robbed, slowly hand is not compatible with many safer to go to a post office over the goods. Thieves in North American and Euro- (correios). Most post offices the city are only too willing pean smartphones. are open 8am to 6pm Mon- to use their weapons if given Good news for some day to Friday, and until noon provocation. Americans: if you have an on Saturday. LTE/GSM-capable device Branches include Bota- (like certain models of the fogo (Praia do Botafogo 324, iPhone6) on Sprint or Botafogo), Copacabana and Telephone T-Mobile, you can get unlim- Ipanema (Prudente de Morais Public phones are nick- ited texting and data in Brazil 147, Ipanema). named orelhôes (floppy on certain plans – though ears). They take a cartão on the 2G network (meaning telefônico (phone card), data is quite slow/nonexist- 129 ent). You can, however, and major seasonal events. one person the expense is purchase additional data for As well as branches at quite high compared to the better use. Check to see if Galeão international airport’s cost of the average bus tour. your iPhone is compatible Terminal 1 (%021-3398- If there are several people on www.apple.com/iphone/ 4077; Terminal 1, Domestic to share the cost, it’s defi- LTE. Arrival Hall, Galeão International nitely worth it. For transport Calls to cell phones are Airport; h6am-11pm) and around the city, contact Directory A–Z Directory more expensive than calls to Terminal 2 (%021-3367- Especial Coop Taxis. landlines. Cell phones have 6213; Terminal 2, International (%021-3295-9606) city codes like landlines, and Arrival Hall, Galeão International All metro stations are if you’re calling from another Airport; h6am-11pm), you’ll technically fully accessible, city, you have to use them. find information kiosks at the but certain elevators may TIM (www.tim.com.br), following locations: be broken or locked due to Claro (www.claro.com.br), Riotur Ipanema (Visconde misuse and the need for Oi (www.oi.com.br) and Vivo modernization. Traveling on de Pirajá & Joana Angélica;  TIME (www.vivo.com.br) are the h buses is not recommended major operators. 8am-9pm) Useful info kiosk for wheelchair-users. Major Foreigners can purchase in the heart of Ipanema. sites are only partially ac- a local SIM with a passport Riotur Leblon (Ataulfo cessible – although there is instead of needing a Brazilian de de Paiva & Dias Ferreira; access to the base of Cristo CPF (tax ID number), though h8am-6pm) Tourist info at Redentor, staff will need to this ability is often ignored by the entrance to Leblon’s best help anyone in a wheelchair cellular providers – prepare onto an escalator to reach eat street. for a battle. the statue itself. Pão de If you have an unlocked Riotur Kiosk Copacabana Açúcar is arguably the most GSM phone, you can simply Beach (%021-2547-4421; accessible tourist spot, and buy a SIM card (called a Av Atlântica, near Hilário de Jeep Tour (%021-2108-5800; chip) for around R$10 to Gouveia; h8am-9pm) Tourist www.jeeptour.com.br; 4hr tour R$20. Among the major info at a kiosk overlooking the R$142) offers excursions to carriers, TIM generally has beach. mobility-impaired travelers. the most hassle-free service. The streets and sidewalks You can then add minutes by Riotur Copacabana along the main beaches purchasing additional airtime (%021-2541-7522; Av Princ- have curb cuts and are from any newspaper stand. esa Isabel 183; h9am-6pm wheelchair-accessible, but Incoming calls are free. Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Good for most other areas do not information on events during have cuts. Most of the newer Carnaval. hotels have wheelchair- accessible rooms, but many Time Riotur Centro (Candelária restaurants have entrance h Brazil has four official time 6; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm steps. Equipment for those zones. Rio, in the southeast- Sat) Handy tourist info kiosk on with sensory impairments is ern region, is three hours a pedestrian lane in a historic few and far between. behind Greenwich Mean part of Centro. Time (GMT) and four hours Riotur Lapa (Mém de Sá behind during the northern- btwn Arcos da Lapa & Lavradio; hemisphere summer. Rio Visas h also observes daylight- 9am-6pm) Tourist info in Brazil has a reciprocal visa saving time, pushing the Lapa. system, so if your home clocks one hour forward For more information about country requires Brazilian from late November to late Rio de Janeiro, visit https:// nationals to secure a visa, February. www.lonelyplanet.com/ then you’ll need one to enter brazil/rio-de-janeiro Brazil. US, Canadian and Australian citizens need visas, but UK, New Zealand, Tourist French and German citizens Information Travelers with do not. You can check your Riotur’s multilingual website Disabilities status with the Brazilian em- (www.rioguiaoficial.com.br) bassy or consulate in your Rio is probably the most home country. is a good source of tourist accessible city in Brazil for information. If you do need a visa, ar- travelers with disabilities to range it beforehand. Visas All of the Riotur offices get around, but that doesn’t distribute maps and the are not issued on arrival, mean it’s always easy. It’s and you won’t be permitted bimonthly Rio Guide, which convenient to hire cars with is packed with information into the country without one. driver-guides, but for only Tourist visas are issued by 130 excellent resource for finding ZIKA VIRUS: volunteer work. WARNING FOR PREGNANT TRAVELERS Iko Poran (%021-3217-1475; Brazil has experienced an outbreak of Zika virus www.ikoporan.org; Rua do ­infections since 2015. Transmitted by mosquitoes, Zika Oriente 280, Santa Teresa) rarely causes illness (only one in five infected ­people Links the diverse talents of Directory A–Z Directory will experience the flu-like symptoms). The virus, volunteers with those required however, has been linked to microcephaly (abnormally by needy organizations from its small head size with possible brain damage) in babies base in Rio. Previous volun- born to women who were infected while pregnant. The teers have worked as dance, CDC (Centers for Disease Control & Prevention) has music, art and language in- recommended pregnant women to consider post­ structors, among other things. poning travel to Brazil (and other countries where virus Iko Poran also provides housing .VOLUNTEERING transmission is ongoing). options for volunteers  Task Brasil (www.taskbrasil. Brazilian diplomatic offices. Entry/Exit Card org.uk) UK-based Task Brasil They are valid upon arrival in On entering Brazil, all tour- is a laudable organization that Brazil for a 90-day stay and ists must fill out an entry/ places volunteers in Rio. Here, are renewable in Brazil for an exit card (cartão de entrada/ you’ll have to make arrange- additional 90 days. In most saida); immigration officials ments in advance and pay a fee Brazilian embassies and con- will keep half, you keep the that will go toward Task Brasil sulates, visas are processed other. Don’t lose this card. in five to 10 days. You will projects and your expenses as When you leave Brazil, the a volunteer. need to present one passport second half of the entry/exit photograph, a round-trip or card will be taken by im- onward ticket (or a photo- migration officials. They will copy of it) and a valid pass- also stamp your passport, Women Travelers port. If you decide to return and if for some reason they In Rio, foreign women trave- to Brazil, your visa is valid for are not granting you the ling alone will scarcely be anywhere from one year (for usual 90-day stay in Brazil, given a sideways glance. Australians) to 10 years (for the number of days will be Although machismo is an Americans). Each visit, how- written beneath the word undeniable element in the ever, you are allowed only Prazo (Period) on the stamp Brazilian social structure, a 90-day stay (or 180 days in your passport. max if you renew it). Multiple it is less overt here than in visits are allowed, but you many other parts of Latin may only stay a total of 180 America. Flirtation (often days each year. Volunteering exaggerated) is a prominent element in Brazilian male– The fee for visas is also % reciprocal. It’s usually be- Río Voluntário ( 021-2262- female relations. It goes both tween US$35 and US$65, 1110; www.riovoluntario.org.br; ways and is nearly always though for US citizens visas room 508, Av Marecal Floriano regarded as amusingly in- cost US$160. 38, Centro) The Rio-based nocent banter. You should Applicants under 18 years organization supports several be able to stop unwelcome of age wanting to travel to hundred local volunteer organi- attention by merely express- Brazil must also submit a zations, from those involved ing displeasure. notarized letter of authoriza- in social work and the environ- tion from a parent or legal guardian. ment to health care. It’s an ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 131

Language

Portuguese is spoken by around 190 million Yes./No. Sim./Não. seeng/nowng people worldwide, 90% of whom live in Brazil. Please. Por favor. por faa·vorr Brazilian Portuguese today differs from Euro- pean Portuguese in approximately the same Thank you. Obrigado. o·bree·gaa·do (m) way that British English differs from American Obrigada. o·bree·gaa·daa (f) English. European and Brazilian Portuguese You’re De nada. de naa·daa have different spelling, pronunciation and, welcome. to some extent, vocabulary. For example, in Portugal, the word for ‘train’ is comboio and in Brazil you’d say trem. What’s your name? Most sounds in Portuguese are also found Qual é o seu nome? kwow e o se·oo no·me in English. The exceptions are the nasal vowels My name is … (represented in our colored pronunciation guides Meu nome é … me·oo no·me e … by ng after the vowel), which are pronounced as if you’re trying to make the sound through your Do you speak English? Você fala inglês? vo·se faa·laa eeng·gles nose, and the strongly rolled r (represented by rr in our pronunciation guides). Also note that the I don’t understand. zh sounds like the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stressed Não entendo. nowng eng·teng·do syllables (generally the second-last syllable of a word) are indicated with italics. If you keep these few points in mind and read our pronunciation ACCOMMODATIONS guides as if they were English, you’ll have no Do you have a single/double room? problems being understood. The abbreviations Tem um quarto de teng oom kwaarr·to de (m) and (f) indicate masculine and feminine solteiro/casal? sol·tay·ro/kaa·zow gender, whereas (sg) and (pl) stand for ‘singular’ How much is it per night/person? and ‘plural’ respectively. Quanto custa kwang·to koos·taa por noite/pessoa? porr noy·te/pe·so·aa BASICS Can I see it? Hello. Olá. o·laa Posso ver? po·so verr Goodbye. Tchau. tee·show ar aarr kong·dee· Como vai? ko·mo vai air-con How are you? condicionado syo·naa·do Fine, and you? Bem, e você? beng e vo·se bathroom banheiro ba·nyay·ro Excuse me. Com licença. kong lee·seng·saa bed cama ka·maa Sorry. Desculpa. des·kool·paa window janela zhaa·ne·laa

WANT MORE? DIRECTIONS Where is …? For in-depth language information and Onde fica …? ong·de fee·kaa … handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Brazilian Portuguese Phrasebook. You’ll find it What’s the address? Qual é o endereço? kwow e o eng·de·re·so at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks Could you please write it down? Você poderia escrever vo·se po·de·ree·aa es·kre·verr at the Apple App Store. num papel, por favor? noom paa·pel porr faa·vorr 132 What’s in that dish? KEY PATTERNS O que tem neste prato? o ke teng nes·te praa·to I don’t eat … To get by in Portuguese, mix and match Eu não como … e·oo nowng ko·mo … these simple patterns with words of Cheers! your choice. Saúde! sa·oo·de Language That was delicious. When’s (the next flight)? Estava delicioso. es·taa·vaa de·lee·see·o·zo Quando é kwaang·do e (o próximo vôo)? (o pro·see·mo vo·o) Bring the bill/check, please. Por favor traga porr faa·vorr traa·gaa Where’s the (tourist office)? a conta. aa kong·taa

EATING &DRINKING Onde fica ong·de fee·kaa (a secretaria (aa se·kre·taa·ree·aa de turismo)? de too·rees·mo) I’m looking for (a hotel). Key Words Estou procurando es·to pro·koorr·ang·do breakfast café da ka·fe daa (um hotel). (oom o·tel) manha ma·nyang Do you have (a map)? cold frio free·o Você tem vo·se teng (um mapa)? (oom maa·paa) cup xícara shee·kaa·raa sobremesa so·bre·me·zaa Is there (a bathroom)? dessert Tem (banheiro)? teng (ba·nyay·ro) dinner jantar zhang·taarr I’d like (a coffee). drink bebida be·bee·daa Eu gostaria de e·oo gos·taa·ree·aa de entree entrada eng·traa·daa (um café). (oom kaa·fe) fork garfo gaarr·fo I’d like to (hire a car). copo ko·po Eu gostaria de e·oo gos·taa·ree·aa de glass (alugar um carro). (aa·loo·gaarr oom kaa·ho) hot (warm) quente keng·te Can I (enter)? knife faca faa·kaa Posso (entrar)? po·so (eng·traarr) lunch almoço ow·mo·so Could you please (help me)? market mercado merr·kaa·do Você poderia vo·se po·de·ree·aa menu cardápio kaar·da·pyo me (ajudar), me (aa·zhoo·daarr) por favor? por faa·vorr plate prato praa·to restaurant restaurante hes·tow·rang·te Can you show me (on the map)? spicy apimentado aa·pee·meng·taa·do Você poderia me vo·se po·de·ree·aa me colher ko·lyerr mostrar (no mapa)? mos·traarr (no maa·paa) spoon vegetarian comida ko·mee·daa food vegetariana ve·zhe·taa·ree·a·naa at the corner na esquina na es·kee·naa with/without com/sem kong/seng at the traffic no sinal de no see·now de lights trânsito trang·zee·to behind … atrás … aa·traaz … in front of … na frente de … naa freng·te de … Drinks left esquerda es·kerr·daa beer cerveja serr·ve·zhaa near … perto … perr·to … coffee café kaa·fe next to … ao lado de … ow laa·do de … fruit juice suco de soo·ko de frutas froo·taas opposite … do lado do laa·do oposto … o·pos·to … milk leite lay·te right direita dee·ray·taa red wine vinho tinto vee·nyo teeng·to straight ahead em frente eng freng·te soft drink refrigerante he·free·zhe·rang·te tea chá shaa EATING & DRINKING (mineral) água aa·gwaa What would you recommend? water (mineral) (mee·ne·row) O que você oo ke vo·se white wine vinho branco vee·nyo brang·ko recomenda? he·ko·meng·daa 133

Food NUMBERS beef carne de vaca kaar·ne de vaa·kaa 1 um oom bread pão powng 2 dois doys chicken frango frang·go 3 três tres Language chilli pimenta pee·meng·taa 4 quatro kwaa·tro fruit frutas froo·tas 5 cinco seeng·ko seafood frutos do mar froo·tos do maarr 6 seis says sugar açúcar aa·soo·kaarr 7 sete se·te vegetables legumes le·goo·mes 8 oito oy·to EMERGENCIES 9 nove naw·ve EMERGENCIES 10 dez dez Help! Socorro! so·ko·ho 20 vinte veeng·te Leave me Me deixe me day·she 30 trinta treeng·taa alone! em paz! eng paas 40 quarenta kwaa·reng·taa Call …! Chame …! sha·me … 50 cinquenta seen·kweng·taa a doctor um médico oom me·dee·ko 60 sessenta se·seng·taa the police a polícia aa po·lee·syaa 70 setenta se·teng·taa 80 oitenta oy·teng·taa It’s an emergency. É uma e oo·maa 90 noventa no·veng·taa emergência. e·merr·zheng·see·aa 100 cem seng I’m lost. 1000 mil mee·oo Estou perdido. es·to perr·dee·do (m) Estou perdida. es·to perr·dee·daa (f) How much is it? I’m ill. Quanto custa? kwang·to koos·taa Estou doente. es·to do·eng·te Can you lower the price? It hurts here. Pode baixar o preço? po·de bai·shaarr o pre·so Aqui dói. a·kee doy

I’m allergic to (antibiotics). ATM caixa kai·shaa ow·too· Tenho alergia te·nyo aa·lerr·zhee·aa automático maa·tee·ko à (antibióticos). aa (ang·tee·bee·o·tee·kos) credit card cartão de kaarr·towng de Where are the bathrooms? crédito kre·dee·to Onde tem um banheiro? on·de teng oom ba·nyay·ro tourist office escritório es·kree·to·ryo de turismo de too·rees·mo SHOPPING & SERVICES I’d like to buy … Gostaria de gos·taa·ree·aa de TRANSPORTATION comprar … kong·praarr … boat barco baarr·ko I’m just looking. bus ônibus o·nee·boos Estou só olhando. es·to so o·lyang·do plane avião aa·vee·owng Can I look at it? Posso ver? po·so verr train trem treng

SIGNS What time does it leave/arrive? A que horas sai/chega? aa ke aw·raas sai/she·gaa Banheiro Bathroom Does it stop at …? Entrada Entrance Ele para em …? e·le paa·raa eng … Não Tem Vaga No Vacancy Please stop here. Por favor pare aqui. poor faa·vorr paa·re aa·kee Pronto Socorro Emergency Department Saída Exit Tem Vaga Vacancy ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 134

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

WRITER THANKS Regis St Louis Emily Rose Yates Many thanks to new and old friends who helped with tips and advice. In particular I’d like to Thanks to all those who helped make Rio my thank Cristiano Nogueira, Jakki Saysell, Alberto home, knew all the best parties and weren’t afraid Armendáriz, Marcelo Esteves, Marcio Zaidan, to haul me up numerous steps: Amy and Andy Vitor Souza, Philip de Wit, Bindu Mathur, Thiago Casterton and their lovely boys; Barbara, Donna, Mourão, Ian Papareskos, Eduardo Cruxen, and Matt, Chris, Henry and Amanda; all those at the Kevin Raub. Beijos to Cassandra, Magdalena and British Consulate; Bernard and his crazy tours; Genevieve for joining me on the road. Sophie and Maxine with their brilliant Portuguese skills; and many, many more. Thanks to Martin Heng for doing an amazing job of encouraging ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS inclusion on a global scale. A special mention Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, must go to the late Scott Rains for being the ­Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated accessibility king, always willingly sharing hints, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate tips and advice. Finally, huge love to Vivaldo ­Classifcation’, Hydrology and Earth System Rangel. Without your belief in me and accessibility, ­Sciences, 11, 163–344. I wouldn’t have written this guide. Cover photograph: Copacabana Beach, Stuart Dee/Getty Images© Paralympic logo used with permission. 135 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Assisting Editors ­MaSovaida Morgan Melanie Dankel, Ross Taylor This 1st edition of Lonely Associate Product Director Cover Researcher Planet’s Accessible Rio Liz Heynes Naomi Parker de Janeiro guidebook was Accessible Travel Manager Thanks to David Carroll, researched and written by Martin Heng Daniel Corbett, Brendan Emily Rose Yates and Regis Product Editor ­Dempsey-Spencer, James St Louis. It is based on the Luna Soo Hardy, Elizabeth Jones, ninth edition of Rio de Senior Cartographers Craig Kilburn, Jaci Langford, Janeiro, which was written Mark Griffiths, Valentina Wayne Murphy, Catherine and researched by Regis. Kremenchutskaya Naghten, Joe Revill, Diana This guidebook was pro- Book Designers Saengkham, Craig Spence, duced by the following: Michael Buick, Wibowo Rusli Lyahna Spencer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 136

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P138 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P138 3 ENTERTAINMENT P138 7 SHOPPING P138 Index 4 SLEEPING P138

4WD tours 124 shopping 76 cooking courses 125 sights 72 Copacabana 37, 58-67, 58, F favelas 43, 63, 124 A sports & activities 76 146-7 feijoada 18 accommodations 13, transport 69 accommodations 115-16 112-17, see also Sleeping botecos 20 drinking & nightlife 66 Flamengo 37, 77-85, 77, 152-3 subindex Brazilian Portuguese 131-3 entertainment 66-7 drinking & nightlife 84 language 131 courses 125 food 62-4 food 83 activities 27-29, see also budgeting 12, see also costs highlights 7, 58, 60 highlights 77 individual activities, bus travel 121-2 shopping 67 sights 81 Sports & Activities transport 78 subindex business hours 17, 20, 26, 128 sights 60-1 sports & activities 67 Floresta da Tijuca 10, adapted surfing 28 108, transport 59 10 air travel 120 C food 16-18, see also Copacabana Beach 7, 31, airports 120-1 cable cars 70-71, 8 individual neighborhoods, 60, , ambulance 126 cabs 123 7 60 Eating subindex Cosme Velho 78, 79-81, 83, AquaRio 94 car hire 122 costs 17 152-3 Arcos da Lapa 100 car travel 122 language 132 costs 12 area codes 128 Carnaval 28, 22, 118 football 28 accommodations 113 ATMs 127 Casa de Benjamin Constant Forte de Copacabana 61 drinks 20 100 Forte Duque de Caxias 61 food 17 Casa do Pontal 109 Fundição Progresso 101 B courses 125-6 Babilônia 63 Catedral Metropolitana 100-1 credit cards 127 Bairro Peixoto 61 Catete 81-2, 83-4, 85 Cristo Redentor 9, 79-80, G Barra da Tijuca 37, cathedrals, see individual Gamboa 95 cathedrals 5, 9 105-11, 105, 158 Gávea 37, 50-7, 50, 148-9 cell phones 12, 128-9 currency 126 accommodations 117 drinking & nightlife 56 Centro 37, 86-96, 86, 156-7 drinking & nightlife 110 food 54 entertainment 110-11 drinking & nightlife 95 D dance 23 highlights 50 food 109-10 entertainment 95-6 dangers 12, 128 shopping 56-7 highlights 10, 105 highlights 86, 88-9 drinking & nightlife 19-21, sights 53 shopping 111 shopping 96 see also individual sports & activities 57 sights 88-9 sights 107-9 neighborhoods, Drinking transport 51 transport 87 transport 106 & Nightlife subindex gay travelers 21, 126 walking tours 93 beaches 7, 28, 6-7, see also language 132-3 Glória 82-3, 84, 85 individual beaches Centro Cultural Banco do disabilities, travelers with 129 Biblioteca Nacional 90-1 Brasil 88, 88 driving 122 H bicycling 121 Centro Cultural Justiça Federal 91 H Stern 41 Botafogo 37, 68-76, 68, 150-1 Centro Cultural Oi Futuro 81 E hang gliding 28 accommodations 116 electricity 125 Chapéu Mangueira 63 health 130 drinking & nightlife 74-5 Elevador do Morro do chemists 127 helicopter tours 124 food 73-4 Cantagalo 41-2 Christ the Redeemer, see hospitals 127 embassies 126 highlights 68 Cristo Redentor Humaitá 37, 68-76, 68, 150-1 emergencies 126 churches, see individual drinking & nightlife 74-5 churches entertainment 22-4, see highlights 68 Sights 000 also individual Cinelândia 90-1, 95 sights 72, 73-4 Map Pages 000 neighborhoods, climate 13 transport 69 Photo Pages 000 Entertainment subindex consulates 126 Escadaria Selarón 99, 99 137 sights 99-101 music courses 125-6 Praia da Barra da Tijuca 107 I sports & activities 104 Praia da Urca 72-3 Igreja de Nossa Senhora da transport 98 Praia de Botafogo 72 Glória do Outeiro 82-3 N Laranjeiras 78, 83, 84, newspapers 126 Praia de Leblon 42 Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Candelária 92 152-3 Praia Vermelha 73 Largo do Boticário 81 Ilha de Paquetá 91 O public transport 121-3 INDEX INDEX internet access 126-7 Leblon 37, 38-49, 38, 144 Olympic Games venues accommodations 115 30-3, 107, 30, 107 Ipanema 37, 38-49, 38, S opening hours 17, 20, 142-3 drinking & nightlife 46 safety 12, 128

26, 128 I entertainment 46-7 samba 24 -

accommodations 115 U drinking & nightlife 45-6 food 44-5 Santa Teresa 37, 97-104, entertainment 46-7 highlights 38 P 97, 154-5 Pão de Açúcar 9, 70-1, food 42-4 shopping 48-9 accommodations 116-17 8, 70-1 highlights 7, 38, 40 sports & activities 49 drinking & nightlife 103 transport 39 Paralympic Games venues food 101-2 shopping 47-8 30-3, 107, , legal matters 127 30 107 highlights 97, 99 sights 40-2 parks & gardens, see Leme 37, 58-67, , shopping 104 sports & activities 49 58 145 individual parks & transport 39 accommodations 115-16 gardens sights 99-100 transport 98 Ipanema Beach 7, 40, 6-7 drinking & nightlife 66 Parque da Catacumba 54 shopping 17, 25-6, see itineraries 14-15 entertainment 66-7 Parque da Cidade 53 food 65-6 also individual Parque das Ruínas 100 neighborhoods, highlights 58 J Parque do Catete 82 Shopping subindex shopping 67 Jardim Botânico 52, 52 Parque do Flamengo 81 language 133 sights 61 Jardim Botânico area 37, Parque Ecológico Chico Sítio Burle Marx 107-8 sports & activities 67 50-7, 50, 148-9 Mendes 109 smoking 126 transport 59 drinking & nightlife 56 Parque Garota de sports & activities 27-9, food 54-5 lesbian travelers 21, 126 Ipanema 41 see also individual highlights 50, 52 Parque Guinle 82 neighborhoods, Sports shopping 56-7 M Parque Nacional da Tijuca & Activities subindex 108 sights 51, 52-3 magazines 126 Sugarloaf Mountain, see Parque Olímpico 31-32, Pão de Açúcar sports & activities 57 Maracanã Stadium 31, 30 107, 107 surfing 28, transport 51 markets 17, 26, see also 29 Shopping subindex pharmacies 127 measures 126 Pista Cláudio Coutinho 72 T K Planetário 53 taxis 123 kiosks 65 medical services 127 metro travel 122-3 planning telephone services 12, 128-9 Mirante do Leblon 42 budgeting 12, 17 Theatro Municipal 90 L Mirante do Pasmado 72 itineraries 14-15 theft 12, 128 Lagoa 37, 50-7, 50, 148-9 mobile phones 12, 128-9 Rio de Janeiro basics time 12, 129 drinking & nightlife 56 12-13 money 12, 17, 126, 127-8 tipping 127-8 food 55 Rio de Janeiro’s Morro da Babilônia 63 tourist information 12, 129 highlights 11, 50 neighborhoods 36-7 Mural de Babilônia 63 tours 123-4 shopping 56-7 travel seasons 13 Museu Casa de Rui train travel 90, 123 sights 53-4 websites 12 Barbosa 72 tram travel 123 sports & activities 57 police 126 Museu Chácara do Céu 100 transportation 120-4 transport 51 Ponta do Arpoado 41 Museu da República 81-2 language 133 Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas Porto Maravilha 94 Museu de Arte do Rio 92 travel to Rio de Janeiro 11, 32-3, 53, 11 Portugese language 131-3 Museu de Folclore Edison 13, 120-1 language 131-3 Carneiro 82 postal services 128 travel within Rio de Janeiro courses 125 Museu do Amanhã 89, 89 Praça Floriano 90 13, 121-3 Lapa 37, 97-104, 97, Museu do Imagem e Som 61 Praça Mauá 37, 86-96, 86, 154-5, 11 Museu do Índio 72 156-7 U accommodations 116-17 Praça Tiradentes 92, 94 Museu do Meio Urca 37, 68-76, 68, 150-1 drinking & nightlife Ambiente 53 Praça XV accommodations 116 10, 103 Museu Histórico Nacional food 94-5 drinking & nightlife 75-6 entertainment 103-4 91-2 shopping 96 food 74 food 102 Museu Nacional de Belas sights 89, 91-2 highlights 9, 68, 70-1 highlights 10, 97, 99 Artes 90 Praça XV (Quinze) de sights 70-1, 72-3 shopping 104 music 22, 23, 24 Novembro 92 transport 69 138 El Born 62 Bar Urca 75 Esch Café 48 V Emporium Pax 73-4 Bar Veloso 46 Espaço Fashion 49 vehicle hire 122 Ernesto 102 Baretto-Londra 46 Fashion Mall 111 visas 12, 129-30 Espaço Lapa Cafe 102 Barthodomeu 45 Garota de Ipanema 47 VLT (Light Rail Vehicle) 90 Espetto Carioca 65 Belmonte 84 Gilson Martins 47 volunteering 130 Espírito Santa 101 Cabaret Lounge 75 Granado 96

INDEX INDEX Estrelas da Babilônia 63 Calavera 75 H Stern 48 W Galeria 1618 65 Caverna 74-5 Hippie Fair 47, 15 walking tours 93 Galeto Sat’s 62 Cobal do Humaitá 75 Isabela Capeto 57

v walking trails 27-8 Galitos Grill 42-4 Cobal do Leblon 46 La Vereda Handicrafts 104 -

W weather 13 Garota da Urca 74 Devassa (Flamengo) 84 Livraria da Travessa 49 websites 12, 112 Garota de Ipanema 44 Devassa (Ipanema) 45 Maria Oiticica 48 weights 126 Globo 65 Estação Net Ipanema 47 Mundo Verde 67 western Rio 37, 105-11, Guimas 54 Garota da Urca 76 O Sol 56 105, 158 Joaquina 65 Garota de Ipanema 45 Rio Design Center 111 accommodations 117 Jojö 54-5 Herr Brauer 84 Rio Sul Shopping 76 food 109-10 Julius Brasserie 74 Hipódromo 56 Shopping da Gávea 56-7 highlights 105 Koni Store 44 Jobi 46 Shopping Leblon 48 shopping 111 La Bicyclette 54 Le Boy 66 Shopping Siqueira Campos sights 107-9 La Carioca Cevicheria 55 Leviano Bar 103 67 transport 106 La Fiorentina 65-6 Lord Jim 45-6 Via Parque Shopping 111 wi-fi 126-7 La Veronese 44 Mud Bug 66 Village 111 women travelers 130 Lagoon 55 opening hours 20 Wöllner Outdoor 48 Lasai 74 O Plebeu 75 Z Le Blé Noir 62-3 Palaphita Kitch 56 Zika virus 130 Livraria Prefácio 73 Polis Sucos 46 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Luigi’s 83 Ponto da Bossa Nova 66 AdaptSurf 28 Mangue Seco Cachaçaria Sarau 103 5 EATING Bernard Moraes 28 102 Week 95 Aprazível 101-2 Casa de Dança Carlinhos Meza Bar 73 Arab da Lagoa 55 de Jesus 76 Miam Miam 73 Arataca 64 Dive Point 49 Mônaco 64 3 ENTERTAINMENT Armazém do Café 44 Embaixadores da Alegria Oui Oui 73 Bip Bip 66-7 Bar do Alto 63 28 Santa Satisfação 62 Centro Cultural Fundição Progresso 104 Bar do David 63 Oi Futuro 85 Simon Boccanegra 64-5 Joquei Clube 57 Bar do Mineiro 101 Cidade das Artes 110 Sírio Libaneza 83 Jungle Me 63 Bar Urca 74 Circo Voador 103-4 Sushi Leblon 44-5 Lagoa Aventuras 57 Bibi Sucos 62 Citibank Hall 110 Taberna da Glória 84 Mar do Rio 85 Bira 110 Espaço Museu Da Térèze 102 Praia Para Todos 28 Braseiro da Gávea 54 República 85 Uruguai 42 Rio by Bike 63 Brasserie Rosário 94 Estação Net Ipanema 46 Vegetariano Social Club 44 Rio Samba Dancer 67 Café Arlequim 94 Lapa 40 Graus 104 Vero 42 Sail in Rio 85 Cafe Colombo 63-4 Pedra do Sal 95 Zona Sul Spa Maria Bonita 49 Cais do Oriente 94-5 Supermarket 44 Rio Scenarium 103 Cantinho Cearense 65 Teatro do Leblon 46-7 Capricciosa 64 Theatro Municipal 95-6 6 DRINKING & 4 SLEEPING Cariocando 83 UCI – New York NIGHTLIFE Brisa Barra Hotel 117 Catete Grill 84 City Center 110-11 Academia Da Da Lapa Design Hotel 117 Cervantes 62 Cachaça 46 Golden Tulip Churrascaria Palace 64 Amarelinho 95 Continental 116 Confeitaria Colombo 92, 94 6 SHOPPING Balada Mix 110 Hilton Barra 117 Don Camillo 64 Amsterdam Sauer 47-8 Bar Astor 45 Hostel Contemporeano 116 Don Pascual 109 Antonio Bernardo 49 Bar Bukowski 75 Hotel Fasano 115 Argumento 48 Bar do Alto 63 JW Marriott Hotel 116 Arlequim 96 Bar do Gomes 103 Sheraton 115 Barra Shopping 111 Sights 000 Bar do Horto 56 Villa Galé 116-17 Berinjela 96 Map Pages 000 Bar do Serafim 84 Windsor Atlantica 115-6 Botafogo Praia Photo Pages 000 Bar Lagoa 56 Shopping 76 139 ANNA HARRIS ANNA

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week! ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 140 Rio de Janeiro Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway/Subte station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 141 1 1 0 2 km 1 1 1 e#0 1 mile

Estádio Olímpico SÃO GAMBOA Ð"9 Ilha das

João Havelange CRISTÓVÃO Cabras D Baía de Jardim CENTRO Guanabara Zoológico Campo de Quinta da Santana CASTELO Boa Vista Sambódromo Ð"8 LAPA Maracanã ESTÁCIO Football 1 1 1 GLÓRIA Stadium Ð"7 SANTA Parque do TERESA Flamengo

CATETE FLAMENGO LARANJEIRAS TIJUCA Ð"6 COSME VELHO Cristo URCA Redentor BOTAFOGO

1 1 1 Parque LAGOA 1 1 Nacional Ð"5 JARDIM 1 1 1 da Tijuca 0000000000LE0M0E BOTÂNICO 10010000000000 3 1 01001000000000 Ð" Jardim 000000000000 Botânico Lagoa 000000000000 o 000000000000 i 000000000000 Ilha da

R Rodrigo 0CO0P0AC0A0B0AN0A00000 Cotunduba n de Freitas 000000000000 r 000000000000

e GÁVEA LAGOA 000000000000 t 000000000000 s 000000000000 e Parque 00000000000Ð"40 W 000000000000 000000000000

& da Cidade

000000000000

a 000000000000

c 000000000000

u 000000000000 j IPANEMA i LEBLON 000000000000

T 000000000000

a Ð"2 0A0R0PO0A0D0OR000000 d A T L A N T I C a Ð"1 r

r O C E A N a B

–

0 1

0 5 km Parque 0 2.5 miles Nacional ANIL da Tijuca GARDÊNIA CAMORIM AZUL FURNAS VARGEM Lagoa de GRANDE VARGEM PEQUENA Jacarepaguá Lagoa da ITANHANGÁ Tijuca Ilha das Lagoa de BARRA DA 44Palm4asMarape4ndi 4TIJUCA444 A T L A N T I C O C E A N 44444444Ð"10

MAP INDEX 1 Ipanema (p142) 5 Gávea, Jardim Botânico 7 Flamengo, Laranjeiras & 9 Centro & Praça Mauá 2 Leblon (p144) & Lagoa (p148) Cosme Velho (p152) (p156) 3 Leme (p145) 6 Botafogo, Humaitá & 8 Santa Teresa & Lapa 10 Barra da Tijuca & Urca (p150) (p154) Western Rio (p158) 4 Copacabana (p146) 4 4 4 142 4 4 4 IPANEMA 4 2 3 5 1 ú æ æ A 4 E S T 6 3 2 5 v 7 1 Bor S

4 4 4 a o i d ge

g e Ga C P P H E I e s

t M p p p A e e h i R d l P v

o a a 1 ul a R û # edfe e

e r n n E a i St

4 r m p S P os d t r n p l it J v n g 4 i á qu s a e ç c t a i 2 t r

a i

e o e g

o r

a p i P Ip 0 A E do c d

r e m A A s

h s

e s s n hg do l i c oa

a a m

t p Gr a B Ga i I r . h 4 4 4 s o nem a . l

Av H e .

n h ea r do B i qu A s e

n D

. u

2 m ý # R i ont . a l r a e h .

2 r l

R o . B c po

d a . . . a

Mo

. a . .

t

h

a

o

. R . . c R

a r . . .

s

R . ã . .

h

a

e

.

. . Ù

#

P de o . . . C

r d d

. . .

.

V

r

. r . . . d

a e o . . . . 4 4 4

o

u

1 i a

.

. . .

i

n s I r . . . .

ç

d

pa

. . . . T

d t c a

. . . . .

o

. o . . e . . o r o

. . . . .

r

r a . . . . .

n

n n

. r . . . . s C

. . . .

.

e t e

. . . . . d

e . . . . . a m . . . . .

û #

1 e . . . . .

n d 8 . . . . . R An . . . . . íb a a

d l de

t M

. 4 4 4 . . . .

e endonç . . . . . a

a e ......

...... M g

...... P

...... R a

......

r o S

. .

. . . . i l

. . r . . . . 2 N e B B o

. .

. . . .

R A

p a

.

. . .

. .

a e A 6

.

.

. . . . . 1

a

v

j

.

......

i

B 4

2 á m

þ # v

.

...... s s þ #

. .

. . . . .

E 8

8

a

. c

...... V a

.

. 4 4 4 . . . . .

p

i r

. . . p . . . .

m i

...... ã

1

i e

.

...... 3 t

. . . .

. . . o 0 j i

i e

þ # .

. . . . . á . r â #

.

...... þ #

p

p

n

. d . . . c . a . . ú # p ......

4

H t

H i 4 e D 2 A B

E F

4

R o

S Ga o

rcia 2 d'Á 3 0 v

2 il 4

4 a J 3

3 3 3 5

1

o 4

P d a

u

þ #

a

I e g 4 4 4

P

t

û s u

S o A

P s

2

a i 1 1 1 1 1

1

a

o 1 l

N

5 r 0 v 4 D 9 6 8 3 2 5 r

1 i a

J a p q E

r

o e u B B Z V U L L K Ga B M i b n e a a o e o a a a i r

A 9 m k u

T n r r r r n r V C 4 4 4 o e i o g ú # o a L A i n e a t m t u . St

a s . g t r Su r a C C . a o o g

i R t . M

a d

ri o a Q û # . o u

i i o de t û #

& ér

- i n o a . a #¡ l c . . N L r r

. . e a

Su P e . a . o S N

1 2 . . . s I a . . . . .

7 n p . . . . C . 1 e i z . . . . . p g dr . . . . a 4 4 4 . e ...... d e P h ...... n v ...... a a ç r ...... t e i ......

m

c l ...... P N m ...... i h a ...... f a . . S . . . . . z e . . . . . e a . . . . r . . . . . #ï

...... r k ...... i ...... e a ...... R I 4 4 4 ...... p t ...... i . a o ...... n tu ...... A ...... R e Jo ...... ana Ang 3 ......

. é . . . l r ica

Ø # m ...... T ...... 0 O ú # ...... a . . .

...... L

...... C ...... 1

4 4 4 ...... A

2 ...... D D ...... E ......

...... N û # ...... 1 A ...... 8 9 ......

......

( T ...... 1 ú # N û # s ...... 6

...... e ...... I ......

...... e 1 C ...... p 6 4 4 4 ...... 3

. . 3 D D C 4 D B F F F D ú # 1 ú # R V

5 i 4 4 4 n 2 3 3 3 3 ícius 1 d ) eMoraes

þ ý 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 1 0 4 S E 9 8 3 2 7 1

n h A A E P L Ga D B t o o s e o n m a e p t

r r l r t v r

i a p d s o t t o s

a

h ç

a t

i n

t

s

J

n

Su

e

ã

o

a

i

i

s

i

E

E

n

o r

g

o m

d a da de m

c

o B N . o . . m e . . e m

e . . I s . . p n r t e . . n . . .

a Sa t . . . u I . a . . pa

n ...... r e . . . . u do . . . . n m . . . . e . . . . e . . . . r . . . . a m ...... a ...... F F ...... p p ...... 4 D C C B B B A A 4 6 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 7

Ø

ÿ

3 2 2 2 2 2 3

0 9 6 S 8 S 5 7 1

p l e H Sp C W H H Gi Ga o e a o i r ö St l p p s a s r t t l e o o s l i a

e n Ma n i l

t n

e

r & d e a g F

n

G G Ma o r F

a

de r

A .

O a s i . C a . c i a . u r r

.

a I t B n . t t p . . m i i . . do o n o v a . . . . i i s n . . . n n t . . . o . . . . i e i h t . . . . e r . . . . a m . . . . o s ......

a ...... L ...... a ...... n ...... g ...... u ...... a ...... g ...... e ......

...... C ...... e ...... n . . H H ...... t ...... r ...... e ...... ( ...... s ...... e ...... e ...... p p ......

1 1 4 D C B B E F F 1 9 9 4 2 5 3 3 3 3 3 )

4 3 5 2 1 143

0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles A B C D E F G H R Migu el Lem

Parque Tom w os 00000 Jobim 00000

R T 00000

ú 00000 n 00000 1 Morro do e 000001 oa Cantagalo l 00000 ess P 00000 P r 00000 o (202m) e áci 00000 IPANEMA Epit f 00000 Av S See0 m0ap000 á 00000 F p01406 000 Ù# r 00000 e 00000 i r hg00000 e 00000 A 00000 l v 00000 i 00000 m 00000

29 n 00000 a w 00000 # t Rom 4004000 R Alb R Sain 00000 erto de Ca 00000 mpos ira 00000 o erre 00000 2 d Sá F 000002 e R 00000 o ¡# 00000 m 44 R 00000 A a 00000 Ipanema/General Lim A 00000 e a Morro do uz v 00000 d o Osório S 00000 Pavão R N e 00000 o 00000

m 00000 s r Ipanema/General 00000 s a R 4004000 ö# 2 a F 00000 #ú Osório á o S R d 00000 R R Barã ¡# c 00000 o d s is a e a Torre ra anc 00000 R Antô ei Fr u nio Parr R C 00000 l 00000 #ú P o 00000 R Jangadeiros p R om 00000 4a 004000 R Visc Ipanema/General o 3 onde de Piraj r B c 000003 á Osório ei u p a 00000 o n 00000 b l r l éi #ú a h 00000 e 27 ¡# õe a00000 #þ #ú 11 CR a 0n 0000 M C 7 es a s 0a 0000 e Pç General n d 00000 om n d 4004000 e R Prudente Osório G in 00000 de Morais a R g C 00000 r i beth a 00000 e r 00000 ò# liza v x ú# E 00000 i 14 inha a 00000 e v Ra lh T A o o R abuc m N #û 31 aqui A 15 R Jo o v Vi ÿ# vian eira Ota So cisco 4 444444uto 444Fran 4 4 R

Ù# 4 Av Praia do Fra #÷ 444444A4rpoador 44ncis 444 co Bh er in 4444444444g 44

5 5 44444444444ö# 5

A B C D E F G H æ Top Sights p40 8 Garota de Ipanema ...... D3 17 Barthodomeu ...... C3 Garota de Ipanema...... (see 19) 1 Ipanema Beach ...... A4 9 Koni Store...... C3 18 Devassa...... B3 25 Gilson Martins...... C3 10 La Carioca Cevicheria...... B2 19 Garota de Ipanema...... D3 26 H Stern...... B3 æ Sights p41 11 La Veronese ...... F3 20 Lord Jim ...... A3 27 Hippie Fair ...... F3 2 Elevador do Morro do Cantagalo...... F3 12 Uruguai ...... D4 21 Polis Sucos ...... C3 28 Wöllner Outdoor ...... B3 3 H Stern ...... B3 13 Vero...... D3 4 Parque Garota de Ipanema ...... H4 14 Zona Sul Supermarket ...... F4 ý Entertainment p46 Ø Sports & Activities p49 5 Ponta do Arpoador ...... H5 22 Estação Net Ipanema...... A3 29 Casa do Caminho Language Centre...... E2 û Drinking & Nightlife p45 30 Spa Maria Bonita ...... D3 ú Eating p42 15 Bar Astor ...... F4 þ Shopping p47 6 Capricciosa...... D3 16 Bar Lagoa ...... D1 23 Amsterdam Sauer ...... B3 ÿ Sleeping p115 7 Galitos Grill ...... E3 Baretto-Londra...... (see 31) 24 Antonio Bernardo ...... B3 31 Hotel Fasano ...... F4

144

leblon

0 400 m e# 0 0.2 miles i A j B C D E æ Sights p42 to A Largo da Gilber d v R o e Bo 1 Praia de Leblon ...... C4 See map Memórial Cardos M rg û# 9 ed es p148 R ei R ro Ad s e d F ú dra al Pç Mílton Eating p44 An 6 b a de e A 1 R sar r d Campos 1 Cap Ce 4 û# t v o e 2 Armazém do Café...... A3 e Fe e l A ú# t F u t r o r fr e a 3 Sushi Leblon...... A3 q 11 d i d â r r na a e ý# er e n 4 Vegetariano Social Club...... C1 u l i B o q de 5 Zona Sul Supermarket...... A2 u n d o e s b l C já A ra R pos M a ei de Cam d e R rr berto el û Drinking & Nightlife p46 o d Fe Hum G R o C e as d e i #þ 6 Academia Da Cachaça...... C1 R n D F n A o R r e a 14 c R v

s r R n Bar Veloso...... A3 i 7 B a G V c J l a 2 v e o 2 V o LEBLON 8 Bibi Sucos...... C3 A n r ã t e e #þ o o 12 n r Jardim

a l 9 Cobal do Leblon ...... C1 â om L

l i n de Alah ¡# ú# r U Jobi ...... A3 c a 10 r eu i Av Ataúlfo de Paiva o q 5 u s F i M l z o o a R r ý Entertainment p46 i i ú# t r e r û# A e R R ò# e d s l m 3 11 Teatro do Leblon...... C1 a Pç Alm C e r #þ 8 R C i i u a e r r va J Belfort M i a a p r r 13 P o

l e n e e e Antero de o þ o d s Vieira

F Pç Antero t Shopping p48 10 d f ¡# r l é s ú e s 16 a t

t Quental i s a û# A de Quental L G n

i v tin G p# A r e 12 Argumento...... A2 a i M n o ó

D R n u a g 3 S i 3

l h a s r R r D i R R ne l a

Esch Café...... A3 Riotur e h 13 o G u a G v r A e r

i e e B #ï r Leblon n ã s

Espaço Fashion...... (see 14) n m h v R o a e

A A r Maria Oiticica...... (see 14) G a r ú# R û# l 2 i 7 u s A i R t l Shopping Leblon...... E2 h r 14 i i t d t 444e 44444444444 a i e r g

L s m a

u E s ra i rei Ø Sports & Activities p49 n Mo Leblon Beach d s elfim o p a Av D (Praia de Leblon) l í 15 AdaptSurf ...... D4 f n ç# 15 o 1 Ù# 444l 44444444444 16 Dive Point...... A3 a 4 4 See map

ATLANTIC p142 44D Mira4nte do Leblo4n (150m); 44444OCEAN4444hg4 Sheraton (900m) 44A 44B444C 444D 444E 4 p a 145 m 0 leblon e 0 e 0 1 2 3 4

S p # ¤ m 3 2 5 3 2 6 o 1 i s 0 A B B 6 B 1 hge . . o . . 0 a l . p . . . i r 5 p ud . . h . . e . . . . a á . . . . n m R l d . . . . i b

. . . . 5 . . . C . a a . . .

. ut 2 . . . . í . n . a . . . o . . . . t a 0 a . . . . C s # ¤ . . . . B a i . . . u . D D . . . . h P . . . . G l ...... o e ...... d a u . . . .

m i . . . . b . . . . r o a . . . . e r u . . . . r R . . . . r r l 4 l . . . V P . . . o a a . U . . o . . . r t i

. . . M

# Ù e

.

. . c n

. .

o r

n c .

. n

a e a 4 r .

. e F i ú .

.

n n . .

b i n e . . G e

o i .

t

f o .

ô m a ç 4 i

T . m l r n a l

. i c

P e 4 r . i R t

o . R

b o t L . R . h C a . n

o M . g 4 . B a i d p

. l # ¤ i t l a o r N

t a u A d o

u l 1

o 0 r 0 e e h T & i r i t 4

A

s l

d n s e C C o # V n ú a a 0 g a o g l o n

0 s

P J

0 e

d n n

0 e a d

i 0

v d 0 i i 0 # d r A 0 J

A s 0 l 3

e 0 r n

0 t p k

0 Nor r 0

0 i o ç 0 0 e o

0 a 0 s e e 0 0 n e d

0 P

d 0 e # ú

0 i v 0 B E G W 0 0 e i

0 d

0 r l a

0

o 0 0 0 m n t i 0 0 0 0 7 e S 8 9 D 0 0 0

n

U R 0 0 4 1 0 0 L 00 0 0 o a 0 a 0

0 0 P û ÿ i 0 0 0 d 00 0 0 0

0 n 0 0 0 0

0

0 0 0 o ô 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 l 0 0 1 E

r 0

0 3 3 2 5 3 2 0 0 3

R 0 i 0 0 0 0 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 b 0 0 6 A A B B 0 C M 0 0 o 0 0 0 . . . . . 0 0 0 0 .C a 0 0 0 0 p . .

0 . . . . 4 0 0 0 0 p E 0 0 0

0 .

. . . .

0 0 0 .

M 0 0 B 0 0 . . . . . 0 . 0 0 0 0 0 4 L 0 0

0 . . . . . 0 0 0 .

6 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 . # ú . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ...... 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 . i j 0 i j 0 . . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 . 0 0 C

0 .

0 . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 . . I 4 . . . . . ú # 0 0 0 0 # ÿ 0 0 0

p 0 .

0 . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 . 0 0 N . 0 . . . . . 4 0 0 0 0 T a 0 0 0 7

0 . . . . . 0 0 0 .

0 9 0 0 0 0 0 . . 0 A . . . 0 . û # 0 0 0 0 0 0 N .

0 . . . . 0 0 . m 0 0 p 5 0 0 0 0 4 . . . .

. 0 . E B B 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 . . 0 . . A

0 . 0 0 . a o0 0 0 e 0 0 . . . . .

0 4 0 . i 0 0 0 C p 0 0 0 . . .

0 . . . 0 0 0 L m e 0 0 0 0 . . .

0 .

0 . 4 0a 0 0 0 0 0 . 0 O a . . .

0 . .

0 . a 0 0 T 0 S 0 0 e i 0 0

0 . . . .

0 . 0 p 0 0 0 . a0 0 0 . . . 0 . .

0 .

d 0

8 0 e 0 0 0 0 A

n 0 4 . . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 . 0 0 c 0 . . . .

0 . S p 0 0 0 . m 0 0 0i ô 0 0 . 4 . . . . . o 0 0 0 0 0 0 l 0 0 .

t . . .

0 . 0 0 . r 0 a 0 i 0 û # 0 0 . . . 0 . . 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 ...... 0 . 0 0 n 0 0

b 0 S 0 0 4 . . . . . 0 0 0 0 . 0 0 or 0 0 . . . . 0 . 0 . 0 â 0 0

a 0 0 0 ) 0 4 . . . . 0 . 0 l 0 0 0 o 0 0 .

0 . . . 0 . 0 0 s

0 e 0t 0

M 0

0 4 . . . . B 0 0 0 . 0 v 0 0 0 0

0 . . . . 0 . 0 0 0 a 0 0 0 h A . . . .

0 . 0 0 0 i 0 a 0 0 0 0 m . . . . 0 0 . 0 0 0c 0 t 0 0 4 . . . 0 . .

0 x 0 0 0 0 0e v 0 a . . . 0 . 0 0 0 . 0 s 0 0

0 0 4 . . . . 0 0 . a

0 L R 0 0 0 0 0 e . . . . 0 . 0 0 A

0 0 u 0 0 0 . . . . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

0 B C

0 . . . 0 0 . 0 0 0 o

0 4

0 0 . . . 0 0 0 G 0 0 0 0 . 0 a . . . 0 0 . # d 0 Ù 0

0 0 0 e 0 4 e . . . 0 0 . 0 0 0 0 0 0 c

0 . . . 0 .

0 R

s 0 0 0 0

0 4

# 0 ÿ a . .

. . o 0 0 0 0 0 d

0 0 m

0 i . 0 .

0 t 0 o

o 0 0 0 0 0

0 .

0 a i l 0

0 0 0 e w 0

0 a d

0 0

o 0 0 .

0 0 e

r 0 r 0 04 w 0 i

0 . 0 8

0 r n 1 0 L

x 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

0 0 i

i 0 u a 0 4 1

0 v 0 0 a

0 0 .

0 0 0 P

0 0 0 t .

e 0 0 0

0 0 0 (

q

0 0 a

C 0

0 0 0 p 6

0 0 C

s 0

e 0

p 0 n o

P a L 0

0

s 0 a 0 i a 4 D 0

0 1 o 0 t r u 0 e 0 b v 0 o 0 R 0 R 0 0 0 0 0 D 0 0 e

0 n 0 0 o

0 0 4 0 0 hg m 0 A 0 0 0 i

0 r a 0 D A A 0 0 0 0 0 0 t

0 4 0 i

0 0 0 0 e 0 o ú 0 # 0 0 t 0 u

0 p

0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 e 0 r i

0 0 e 0 0 0 0 d

0 a 0 0 e q

0 s

0 4 ú 0# 0 0 t S p e

0 g 6 0 4 0 w 0 0

0 0 F

0 l

0 0 r

0 t

0 r

0

p

0 0 a

0 0 m

0 4

0 0 4

n

0 5

0 0 0

0 a o

l 0

0 a

e 0 1 s b

v o N 0 i a o a 0

h w l s

e

I o 0 n 0

a 0 ú s

T 0 e e 0 0 c n i 0 r 0 0 P 0 p t v 0 0 A hg 0 0 G J L B E 0 F e

0 4

0 0 00 0 00 g i

0 0 a

0 0 0 S 0 0 0 0 0 4

0 0 0 1

0 5 2 3 6 E S 0 4

0 4

00 0 00 0

0 00 0 0

00 0 0 4 0 0

ú

00 0 0 æ 1 3

2 4 0 00 4

00 0

0 4 #

0 Ù

0 4

4

4

4

4

4

4 4

p a m 0 e 0 e 0 S hgp

S e w e m p0 ap hg00 Tunnel

Se

e m

p0 ap hg00 w j i i j 146

See map copacabanaSee map Parque da p243 R p252 00 e# 0 Morro de 500 m Catacumba 0000

000000 0 São João 0.25 miles A B C 00000D0 E F G

00000000

00000R 000L 0 00 w 0 00000S 0 a i j i 00 0d 0 j 00 000i 00 0 00000q 0 e00 S 0000 u 0i 00 e 0000 0000r 00 e 000 000e00 a 0 m 000 i 000 p a 00 00r 0 0 0 p Pç Edm0u0nd0o 0 0d 000 00000 00a 0000 0 00 000 0000 o 000 0Bittenc0ou0rt 00 C 00000 00000 0000s 00 00 Cardo 1 00000 000a00 0000 en sode 1 00 0000 T 00000 R G 0000R 0m 00 00 uia a g r 000000 00000000000000 Travessa Guimarães e A 0 00 0 BAI0RR0O0 000p b 000 0 F 0 000 00000 o 000000 00 m 000 00a 0 000 e 0 0i 0 0 000 R 0000 s 000 Natal 12 0 g 0 00 P0E0IX0OT0O 000000 0r 00000 000 L 0 00 00a 0 00 0 u0 o 400 A 00 00 000 000 000 0000

000 000205 #þ j 000 000 d a 0 00 ei 0 0 0

000#æ020 0n 0000000000000 0000000 a 00 00s 00 r

0 i 0 0 0 00 00 00 00 Cardeal i w 0 r 0 0

000 00t 0000 00000 000000 00 e a 0 0

00 ed 00 0 0

00w 000 0000000 000000 0000000 00 d 4 0 00 000 000 000 000Arcoverde a 00000000G 00000000¡#00000000000000000 L z 000 o 0000 0000 0000 0 0a 0 0 R 0Tonelero g V0a 0000000000000000000000000000000000¡# S h 0 r 0 0 0 0 4r 0 d 0 00 0 00 0 0Siqueira 0 0 e o 0 R 000 00 00 000 j 0000 i 000 0000 0000 000 e 0 b 00 00 0 0 a 0 4e 0 0 00 00 00 000 00 m 0 0Pç Cardeal 0 r 000 00 000 000 00 xo M S 0 00 00 0 0 p a l 0000 0a00 Camp0os00 000 0000 0 0 0 0 o 0 p 0 00 0 0 0 o e 0 0 M 0 0 0 00 0 00 00 00 00 i 0 n 0000a l 0000 0000 0000 00Ar0co0verde 0 00 00 d 00 0 00 00 #ú 0 n ú 00 000 000 00 000 R #ú 0 n 0 0 0 0 40 0 0 00 0 T 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 a 0 0 00 0 i 0 0 0 0lh0o00 0000 0000 0000iro 0000 ú 0 u t 0 00 0 e 0 0 0 0 4 0 ib 0 d 0 0 0 0 R 0 0 J 0 J 00 00g 000 ra0ta0 00 0 0 a a 0 0 e 0 00 00R B R 0 00 9 w 00d 00 0000 0000 000 #0000 0000 r 13 0 0 0 0 l 0 R 5 0 a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0R 0 0 R 0 0 0 0 0 0 M o 0 C 0 4R 0 0 0 00R 0 0i 0 0 0 0 0 ni 0 0 0 0 0 0 s e 0 0 0 l 0 t d 00 000 000 00 000 00 ro f R 0 0 0 H 0 0 0 V 0 0 i l 0 0h 0 0 0 0 v 0 0 4 00 0 0e 0 00 ei 0 r 0 l 0 0 0 0 0 o a 0 0 P 0 00 00 000 00 30 00 00 s b 0 00 a 00 0 00 0 00 0 r 0 0i e o 0 0 0 p 00 0 d0 2 D 00 000 ã 00 4 00 00 00 e C 2 0 0 00 l 0 0 00 a r R 0 00 00 00 a 00 0 0 st a 0r 0 0 r i 0 0 0 á 0 00 0 0 o 0 ú 0 0 00 000 ò# 000 00 00 P 0 e i 0 0 0 0 B

0 0 0 0 0 0 r e 0 a 0 0 0 0 0 s 0a 0 0 0 u 0 0 0 00 00 0 r 0 00 0 00 r 0 0 00 00 b 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 I C 0 0 0 v 0 0 0 0 0 0 e 0 40 s 0 i 0 0 0s 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 l 0 0 i 0 0 0 o 0 A 0 0 0 l 0 00 00 0 00 00 v 0 0 R 0 0 a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A ou on 0 0 00 00 00 i 00N 0 00 4 v 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d 0 0 o 0 a 0 c 0 0 0 00 0 00 00 L 0 00 00 0 00 s 00 0i S 0 0 0d 0 s 0 000 000 000 000 00 a 000 000 a 0 0 a 0 d 0 0 F 0 0 4 s e A 0 0 0 0 0 0 # u 0 00 000 Pç Serze0de0lo 0 00 0e00 0v 00 e 0000 00# 0 000 e 000 000 Cop0a00 0027 #ï v e 40 0 00 0 0 0 cab 0 00 s 0 0 0 a 0 0 0 r 0 0 e m R 0 0 0 n 0u 0 0 0 0 d 0 00 a 0 p 0000 00280 0000 0000 000 000 000 0 0 0 Go 0 0 p a H t 00 004 0na0 Corr0eia0 e 00 00 000 0 0 0 0 0 c o 0o 0 0 o 0 0 0 p r 000 000ba 000 000 000 000 4D 000 Riotur 0 0 e a 0 00 a 00 0 00 00 00 00 0 i 00c 00 c 00 00 i 00 00 00 0Guanatur 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0a 0 0 n hg0 n om e 0 0 0 00 t 0 0 0 0 0 0 n 00 00 00 00 0 P 00 ú# 00 00 0 p 0 0 R 0 0 0 0 i 0h 0 0 0u 0 00 0 10 0 r P b 0 000 o 00 000 00a 40 00 000 000 i 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0 i 0 e 0 t 00 00 0 00 0 00 00 Copacab0ana r q a 00 C 00 00 v 00 000 00 00 R R 00 400 00 00 s 00 00 00 00 00 Turismo 0 0 00 0 330ÿ# 0 0 e 0 0e0 00 0 r 00 0 00 00 u 0 00 0 0 e 00 0 00 00 a 0 00 107 00 00 00 000 #û 00 Pç do 00 P e 00 00d 0 00 0u0 0 20 00 00 t 0 4 0 0 0 0 00 00 0 0 0 00 0 00 R 000 #ú00 00 i 000 0000 000 4000 0 0 S 0 0 0 0 D aR 000 000 000 00a 0 0000 000 00 00

r 0 ›#0 00 00 40 0 00 00v

o 00 000N 00 00 000 000 000 Lido 000 d a B 400 a00000 v 00000 000ú#000 00000 00000 00000 00000 00000 0 00 6 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 A s 00 00 00 00 000 00 00 000 w Cantagalo B a 0000m 00004A00 0ú#0000 000000 00000 00000 000000 000000 0000 o R 0 0000 0000 0000 0000 00tic0a 00 000040000 000 rth r 00000 0000r0a 000400 00000 0v 0At0lân00 00000 00000 00000 00

¡# ã0000 os 00000 ei 00000 0000 000A 00 0000 0000 000040 000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R R 0o 0 00#00 r 0000 000 00400 0000R0 Fernand0o 000 0000 0000 000 000r 00 000 000 00 000 00 X 00 d 0 400000 0000n0a 000Rio0tu0r Kiosk 00000 00000 00000ú# 00000 00000 00 0F0e 0 00 0 40 00 0 00 00 a 000 00 000 00 00 000 M a 00e0000 260000s 0040a0b 000 00000#ï 0#0000 00M0en0de0s 000000 00000 00 v R 0 00 o 0 c 00 00 00 00 0 00 g h S 00 00g 0a 0 00 00 000 00 400A0rena de 00 i ie 00 I 000000 n0000p0 00000C0op4aca0ba0na000 00˜#000 0000 700000 00000 i lv r B 0p000 0i 000 o 0000 0000 00000 0000 00000 # 00000 40 g ol 4000 0000m 0C 00 0000 0000 000 Ø#29 0000 000 000 e 0a 0 e 0 0 Posto 30 4 0 0 00 d 00 o 00 00 00 00 00 0Po0sto 2 00 u ir a z í 0000n0 0004D000 a d00000 00000B0each000000 00000 000000 0000V0ôl0ei de000 v 0 0i 00 00 0 00 4 0 0 a e 00 000 a 000 000 00 000 0400 000 000 e u 0a 000e 00 R 000r 00 004000 00000 00000 00000 00000 00000 3 r 0000m 000800P 0ÿ#0000 0000 0000 00000 0000 00400Praia 00 3 See map l ig 000 00000ú# 00000 00000 0Ù#041000 00000 0000 00000 0000 L 0 000a00 00000 0000 0000 0000 0000 00000 0000 4

M 0004 000 000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 00 Ù#

00 00 0 0 00 40 0 00 e 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 000 p142 w o 000 0000434 000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 m d B0AI0XO00 0000 0000 0000Copacab0a0na00 0000 0000 40000 00 l 000 000000 00000 000004000000 00000 00000 00000 00000 im o o 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 00000 4 p 40000 0000 0#000 0000 0000 000 0000 000 00 0 0 0 0 04 00 0 00 v COPA 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 l s o 0000000 0040000 0000000 000000B0ea0ch00000 0000000 000000 0000000 000 e 0 101 0 0 00 0 04 00 0 A 000 ú#00 000 000 00 000 4000 00 00 L 00 00000 00000 040000 00000 00000 00000 00000 000000 e 0000 0000 Pos0to0 4000 0000 0000 00000 0000 04000 ú#0 0 0 0 0 r io 105ú#000012 0000 0000 00000 40000 0000 00000 0000 000 i 00 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 4 e R 00400 000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 0 0 00 00 0 00 400 0 00 000ÿ# 00 00 00 00 00 0 00 0 r 0 00000 0000400 000000 00000 000000 000000 000000 000000 0 F 0320000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 40000 0 0000 00000 00000 000040 000000 000000 00000 00000 0000 0 0 0 á 00 0000 0000 000 000 0000 000 0000 00004 4000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0 ú# 00 0 0 00 40 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 00 0 S Tv Cristiano R 0106 000000 0400000 000000 00000000000000 0000000 000000 000000 00 f 00 0 00 0 0 00 40 00 00 D 000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 00000 0000 R e j 0000 0000 0000 4000 0000 0000 000 000 000See map a 0 00 00 000 00 00 000 00 r U 108 00 00 00 0 00 00 0 400 Sa Lacorte l lm 00000 00000 00000 00000 4000000 00000 00000 00000 00 i 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 n P r 0004 000 000 000 000 0000 000 000 00 4 t R i 0a ú# 04000 000 0000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 p145 l c 0 0 00 00 00 0 4 00 0 0 S om h 00000 00000 00000 0000 0000 00000 00000 00000 0 e e a 000â# 00 4000 000 0000 000 000 000 000 e an n 00 00014000 000000 00000 00000 00000 00000 00000 00000 m n 000 000 0000 00400 0000 0000 0000 0000 0 a 0 000 00 00 000 00 00 00 00 hg 00 0 00 0 0 00 0 00 040 0 0 0 p a R ú 40000 000 0000 000 0000 0000 0000 0000 p S b 0 0 00 0 00 400 0 0 0 0 á 00 #ú 00 00 00 00 0 00 00 00 0 Fe T 000 00 00 000 000 000 000 000 rr w a 00 00040000 000 000 000 000 000 00 hg0 e ý# 00 0 0 00 0 0 400 0 0 i 21 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 ra c 00000 0000000 000000400000000000000 0000000 0000000 000000 00000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ¡# 4 a 00000#þ0000000000000000000000000000400000000000000000000000000000000000 4 p 0000R Aires de000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 00 4 o 00 40000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 0 0 0 00 00 04 00 00 0 000 000 000 000 00 000 000 00 C 0000 00000 40000 00000 00000 00000 00000 00000 0000 0 0 0 0 0 l a 22 0Saldanha 00 0 0 0 0 0 00 o R 00 000 00 000 000 000 000 00 00 So i 0000 000 0000 0000 000 0000 0000 0000 0 u e 0 0 0 40 0 0 0 0 0 h uza 0000 000 0000 0000 000 0000 000 000 00 l L é Almirante 000 000 000 000 000 000 0000 000 im a d 40 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 0 00 00 0 400 00 0 a #þ 00 000 00 00 00 00 00 000 0 a 0 0 0 p 0000 00040 00000 00000 00000 00000 000000 00000 0000 R S 0 00 0 0 00 0 0 0 v 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ¡# 0G0on0çalves 000 000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 0000 r 000 0000 00400 000 0000 000 000 000 N 00 00 00 0 00 0 00 00 000 R 0 00 00 000 00 000 000 00 0 a 24 00 00 0 0 00 0 0 00 om 00 0000 0000 0000 0040 000 0000 000 000 v 000#0 0000 0000 0000 00000 0000 0000 00000 0 C 0 0 0 0 0 0 P 000 4Post0o 05 0 000 000 00 00 000 00 000 00 0 0 0 00 400 0 00 A 00 0000 00000 0000 00000 0000 0000 00000 0000 e 0000 000 4000 000 000 0000 000 000 0 0000 0000 00000 00000 00000 00000 0000 00000 0000 d 0 0000 00000 0000 40000 0000 0000 00000 00000 000000 000000 00000 00000 00000 000000 000000 00000 0

s 40 00 00 00 000 00 00 00 000 00 0 0 00 0 400 00 00 R 0000 0000 0000 000 0000 000 000 000 e F 000 0400 0000 0000 0000 0000 00000 00000 00 r 0 00 00 0 00 00 4 0 0 a 000 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 õ ncis 0000 00000 0004000 00000 000000 000000 00000 000000 0 c 000 00 00 00 00 00 000 00 h o 000 000 0000 000 0000 0000 000 000 l Sá 000 0000 000 04000 000 000 0000 000 000 0000 0000 00000 0000 00000 0000 0000 u 4 000 0000 000 000 000 000 0000 00 0 0 0 0 400 0 0 R 0000 00000 00000 00000 00000 0000 00000 0000 B Jú 000 4000 00 000 000 000 000 0 0 00 0 0 0 0

liode 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 R 0 4 0 0 0 00 0 00 00 0 00 00 Cast 0000000000000000000000000004000000000000000000000000000 ilho 400000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 s 0 00 00 0 004 0 0 #û 00000000400000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 0 000000000000000000040000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 5 000000000000000000000000000004000000A 0T 0L A0 N0 0T I00 C0000000000000 5 4000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 0 00000000004000000000000000000000000O 0C0 0E0 A0 N00000000000000 0 0 0 0000000000000000000040000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 0 000000000000000000000000000000400000000000000000000 40000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 0000000004000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 000000000000000000400000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 400000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 000000000400000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 0 0000000000000000000400000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000 400000000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 00000000040000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000000 400000000000000000000000000000000 0 0 000000000400000000000000000000 0 0 0 00000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000 6 4000000000000000000000 6 0 00000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000 4000000000000000000 00 00000 000 0000000000000000 000000000000000 0000000000000 00000000000 A B C D 000E000000 F G 000000000 0000000 000000 00000 000

147 copacabana

7 4 3

3 F ...... e s n e r a e C o h n i t n a C 3 D ...... l e t o H t t o i r r a M W J

3 3 5 2

) 3 e e s ( ...... o b m o l o C e f a C 2 F ...... e c a l a P a n a b a c a p o C 1 D ...... s o p m a C a r i e u q i S g n i p p o h S

6 2 3 4 2 8 1 3 D ...... s o c u S i b i B 3 B ...... l e v a r T 4 o i R n o t I e m a l B 4 B ...... e d r e V o d n u M 4 B ...... a r g e n a c c o B n o m i S

5 1 1 p g n i p e e l S 5 3 2 7 1 3 D ...... a c a t a r A 6 A ...... r e v i R a i r e l a G 3 D ...... o ã ç a f s i t a S a t n a S ÿ

2 6 p g n i t a E

2 2 6 1

4 B ...... r i a F a c i t n â l t A v A 4 B ...... o c a n ô M ú

7 6 p g n i p p o h S 1 3 5 1

6 A ...... e r o t S e k i B ô l e V 3 B ...... r i o N é l B e L þ

4 4 1

4 B ...... m o S e m e g a m I o d u e s u M 4 B ...... o b o l G ) 3 2 e e s ( ...... s d r a o b f r u S t i r i p S

3 3 1 1 2 0 3 6 B ...... a n a b a c a p o C e d e t r o F 2 G ...... s ' t a S o t e l a G 4 B ...... p i B p i B 2 E ...... r e c n a D a b m a S o i R

6 6 p t n e m n i a t r e t n E 2 2 1 9 2 1 D ...... o t o x i e P o r r i a B 3 C ...... n r o B l E

3 F ...... s o d o T a r a P a i a r P ý

s t h g i S 1 6 p 1 1 8 2

3 C ...... o l l i m a C n o D 2 D . . . . s o d i n U s o d a t s E - l i s a r B o t u t i t s n I æ

0 1 0 2 7 2

2 F ...... e c a l a P a i r a c s a r r u h C 2 F ...... g u B d u M 2 G ...... o i R n i k o o C

1 9 9 1 6 2 3 E ...... h c a e B a n a b a c a p o C 2 G ...... s e t n a v r e C 5 A ...... y o B e L 3 C ...... s e g a u g n a L a c o i r a C

4

4

0 6 p s t h g i S p o T 6 6 p e f i l t h g i N & g n i k n i r D 7 6 p s e i t i v i t c A & s t r o p S 8

3 C ...... a s o i c c i r p a C

æ û Ø

4

4 A 4 C G E D B F

4 4

4 4

a n a b a c a p o C

4

e d a t n o P

4 4 4

4

o c n a r F o i n ê g u E a m e n a p I

6 6 4 4

l e n o r o C ç P e d a t o r a G

e u q r a P

R O D A O P R A

3 4

# V

4

3 2

4

o

0 # þ

n

Ø

#

a

i

v 0

0

a

t

o

0 O 0

c

0

4 1 3 s

i

0 c

0

0

n

0

a

4 0 0

0

r F

0

0

R 0 0

0

0 0

0

0

6 o t s o P

0

0

0

#

o 0

0

c 0

0 0

u

4 b 0

0

a 0

0

0

N

0

0

m 0

i 0

0 u

0 q

0

0

a

0

0

o

J # Ù 0

0

0

0 R

0 4

0 0

0

0

0

h 0

4 0

t

0

0

e

0

b

0 0 a

N A E C O 0

0 z

0 i

l

0

E

0

0

0

a

0

h

0

0

n 0

i

0

0

a

4

0 R

0

0

0

v C I T N A L T A

0

A

5 5 0

0 0

0

0

0

0 0 9 1

0

0 # û

0

0

0

0

0

s 4

0

o

0 0

0 h

l 0

i

t 0

0

4 s 0

0

a

0

0 C

0

0 R

e 0

0

d

0

0 o 0

i

0

l

0

ú

0 0 J B

0 0

0

R

0

4

0 0

0 u 0

0

0

á 0

0

S

0 l

0

o

0 h

0 c 0

0 s

i

0

c

0

0

n õ 0

0

a

r

0

0 F

0

0 e 0

R

0

0

0 4 0

0 s

0

0 0

0 d 0

0

0 e 0

0

A

5 o t s o P P

0 C

v #

m o

4 2 a

R

N

r

s e v l a ç n o G

v

S

R

p

a

# þ

a

a

m d i

e t n a r i m l A

L

l

é

a

z

h

u u e

o

S

i R

o

a 2 2

a h n a d l a S l C

o

e d s e r i A R

p

# þ

4 4

a

c

a

r

i

1 2

e

# ý

w r

a r

e F T

á # ú

b S

R

ú

a

n

n

n

1 4

a

e

# â

a

m h

o

l

c

a # ú R

i

t

P

r

n 4

i

l

m

a

l

e t r o c a L S

r

U 8 1

a

j R e

D f

o n a i t s i r C v T

R

6 1 S # ú

á

F

2 3

r

# ÿ

e

R

i

5 1 # ú

i r

2 1 o

# ú

e

4 o t s o P

L

A # ú

e

1 1

o

l

h c a e B

s A P O C v

p

#

i o

o m

l

a n a b a c a p o C

d m

O X I A B

o

4 3 w

e

M

a L

1

i # # Ù Ù

# ú

l

g

8

# ÿ m

r 3 3

P

u

e r a

e R

a

a e

i v

r

a h c a e B a D

í n

z

u i

d

o

d

e

e

a

3 o t s o P

l o m

g

C

r v

i

p l o i

B

n i e

a n a b a c a p o C

I p

i

g

a

S

c

v R

o

M a

# ï e

6 2

#

s

a

b

a

e F d

n k s o i K r u t o i R

X

a

r

#

R

R o r

e

¡ # s o

ã

i

r

a

r

R

a

m

# ú B A

o l a g a t n a C

5

6 B v

# ú

a

a

N

r # ›

R a

S R # ú

t

d

7 1

a

e

e

o m s i r u T

R

R

C

a t

i

o

b P

h

p n

e

m o a

r u t a n a u G

c c

i

a

a

r

b

a

o

o n t

a

p

8 2

R

s e

#

u

a

L

d n o

u o

s

C

r

a a e

i

r i

R

r

D 2 2 o

a

l R

C R

5

d

w

a e

J

t u

l h

o

T

n

ú

n a

e

l

S M

a

j

o R

r V a

wz

1 1

A C B E D G F w 148

GÁVEA, JARDIM BOTÂNICO & LAGOA 4 2 3 5 1 æ æ N 4 S T 6 3 2 5 1 a

o i P g c T P P P Mu L J p ( a i R a i h a o o l a a i r j a n r u S n p g q t r r M G

di n s c qu qu e s 2 u a o i e á a e n g 0 l 6

e m a

a v G u i t d 1 A A h e e n

e #æ r á 7 R

a

R Á g

do a t q B ) r L da o s i V #¡ u P o a o

dr

ê a E g t

. Me L

C s . R c â A .

e e i d h

. A g

a n

o 2 . e d e . .

o v i t i 0

. c . n o o c . a . S

o

. P . e s de #þ 9 o

. . c ã A l L .

. a

O . . .

u o # Fr ú e

. R . . dr m

. . . i

m ã F A V R . . . t

. . . a

e r i o b

r i . . .

t c s M b u

. n . .

e R . i . .

r e 8

e . . . c

a A a i

1 . .

. n

t F

r # a ú . n .

. j 5 a a . . .

. t o i e . . . .

t p # e û

s r .

. . .

e r . e . . . #þ 1

. R . . n ...... Av V 9 . . .

. u . . isconde a ......

P b ......

d n D . . . . .

. e A A lbu v Ro 1 ç # d e û . . .

. . . q ri

uer go OtáA q d u #þ ...... e v 4 v i

o u

n ......

S

. B .

. o . . .

m s

. a . . . .

. a # ú B B ji

. r . .

. . .

1 t

o M

S . .

. V .

. . n l

o o 7

......

e m e a ......

t

u n p

1 a . M B . . . . . R o e i t z R . . . r . . . 1 e 0 t g ......

s o 4 m

. I . . . . . V # ú a

J n ...... 1 B 4 . t . . . . . l g i a J R 1 a ...... h s o â ...... a p l c ...... r ê t e â # ni r ...... M â 3 d p p s ...... I d s

. . . . . t A n R

G4

i . C

B á d 5 5 A

c a E i

E R m A 1 i R m

u R e d r P ú

o c 3 2 3 3 3 8

5 a

R

1 i J x P l n o

b o a Z e S

#æ

e i

# þ

ç r r a

r l di C a o t i R i

o r ú N u a

m M o a

i 1 F

d a z R b

r S r

1 e B t

1 1 c

i a 1

o u

0 r ei

E 9 o 8 3 2 R s o

7 r G 1

r

e J t

Ø v # C

â o

a

i a r a oq n v r i n d

a l

L L L J Gu B A o o 2 l J t b i R (

u c o os a a a i E 1 L

r o r e

u

B b n a L E a P j g G s

E r

i e ö C B e o O g m é

t J s b t s a o

B á i o p á .

i A a tá

d e

T

B o . c v L e da a d .

r C i i R

e C C . y  n a d s H l r i O i s . h o o a a

. o c s D d

i N . Q . .

i a o N r ) L c . . . tos

l p a

d

I . . . e d u da I

. . a .

a M ó

a C

. i . . G

t o . n . . d

g t

. . C

. s F O R C

á

. t

. e . r o R Gá

. a . . o

v

l

o

e e l

. . .

a

s e

u G a R

e

. . . .

m

g

v

. M . . . m

e

l

o a b . F . . .

. r

v a

n a

F i c

n

. o . . . .

o

c

e

. . . . .

e R a

e

t d

. A a . G

. .

.

v

A

f

a h r

. â . . . .

r n n e

i

a o d

S

. d . . . e .

s o

. . e . . .

go r e B

. a . . . .

. # ú

1 z

...... r t

o

. r . . . . .

3

i u . i . n . . . . A

a t

K ......

L r . o . . . . v . Av n

...... B

i o

a rg . .

. e . . . .

os s i B P B F de

L M ed n ......

. eiros

goa

......

. a a r o

o A . R ......

P #ú

k . . . . . r . . r i P

P r

. J ...... # ú g

G q i a

s . g . J . .

. . . a 7 d

i a

a ......

r I u

r S e t ...... O o

q d

l a . .

. . . . . i L e

e s h

...... n s u a

e q A ...... i

a b

...... s

d i m e

u . . . . r . . .

r

a

. R .

. . . . .

e ê o . R ......

D D

a

. o ......

......

c O

M M P A ......

. h ...... l

a i . . . a . .

. . v

v e a ......

e u ......

L c ...... d i

l r ...... i a h a

...... e n ...... a

...... i e

...... r d ...... p

u o ...... o . D D B

5

B A B

s E d 4 4 4 4 4 3 2 e 1

#÷ þ û 1 1 1 1 1 4 S D 6 8 5 7

h r O I P H B i o s n a a i a p So p k l

r b

a p

ó

i

do

n e

p i

dr

l

n

l

g

h

. a E

E .

g o

i . H

t & . C

. m a . o

a .

N . K r o p . t . i i . . o e t g . . . . c t . . . h o . . . h . . . t ...... l . . . . . i . . . . . f ...... e ......

...... F F ...... p p ...... G5 B C 5 B B 5 6 5 4 2 2 2

Ø

2 2 1 2

0 9 S 2 1

p L J Sh P o o a r F r a qu g o t a ç o s p i a r e a

& .

i

. Sa G G i A

. n C

. A . v g . l n . e u c

. da . t n b t . o . i t e . v s . u

. . Gá i

. . r D t . . a . . i . . u e . s . v . . m s . . e . . . .

. . . a . . o ...... n ...... t ......

. A ...... n ...... t ...... i . . . . qu ...... e ......

. . . .

...... H H ...... p . . . . G4 C A B 5 4 4 4 7

4 3 5 2 1

w w

149 GÁVEA, JARDIM BOTÂNICO & LAGOA w

1 5 2 3

4

o r i

e w 7 4 4 4 r

u

e 5 u o L A B

C G4 m p

. . . .

s p

. . m o . .

e 0

P . . . . p l . . . . R #¡ a 0 i . . . . 6 . . . h . o 5 . . . . l m m 4 . . .

c . i . a . . . 1 r e . . . .

5 l

g

p . . . . e h

. 2 . .

U . . t . . . . S

ta . . . .

r a hg 0 . . . . H H o n

. . . . o o l . . . .

)

a

i m j . . . d .

l a w . . . .

e

C

. . . .

a m g

s o p j . . . .

a . . 2 . .

r d a D R . . . . t r 0

qu

. . 0 . .

o i

. . . . n m o 5 R 2 . . . .

t s D 1 . . . . a ( e . . . . s n o p M . . . . ) C e e . . . . o d . . . . A S t

u

. . . . m i . . . . a t

o q e . r . . .

) i R . r . . . d n d r 85 b . . . .

r . . . m a a 3 n o o . . . o a ( . . . 5

r d e C R . . . r e . . . 4 s m M u . H . o v s 2 . . a e u . . ( v i . . a S M . . t A D r . .

i Gá . .

u . s v . e t i . o . t b n t . da 0 0

. p c 6 u e . n l a . 1 g A v 2 . A #û .

C n m 4 . # O

A

i G G Sa 1

. i e

e . & 2 p G

a e e r a a i 2 pp s o A

o S ç ji a

s t o L g qu

s a r s e # F

e Ø

r l # Ø a t a P o o

d o o P Sh J L

# ÷ i p a s d oa #ú

a c

1 b s a 2 S 9 4 B 0

d á s

e 2

1

t P 2 2

i k m

oa

e P p Ø u g

e u E os o

d o da c o

u i q Sa l i

e

d a

e v d r

t La a n c K R Fo t 2 2 2 4

5 6 a

g A e a á

P a t 5 B 5 B C B G5 u C

. . t

. . . . .

q

p

p i p w . . . . . n

r

. . . . .

a E . .

. . . a . . . . .

. . . . . C P

o v . . . . .

i a

. . . . .

o

o A . . . . . d

s . . . . . ã

. . . . . ó r s

. . . . .

t r e . . . . .

s . . . . . e P

F F . . . . .

u . . . . . S o

i . . . . .

C . . . . .

c . . . . .

á . . . . .

t m

. . . . .

i i

. . . . .

o

r e

p . . . . .

d b

n . . . . .

E u

a . . . . .

e o

v L . . . . . R i F q r e A J . . . . .

r . . . . .

. . . . .

a

. .

. . .

m . .

. . .

R P

M

a r . . . . i . a

A n g é l i o c a ...... T ......

. . . . . a s . . . . . e

.

. . . . #ú r . . . . o .

f i . . . . . r i 2

.

. . . . e i l . . . . .

1 o . . . r . e t . . . m

r h c . . . o i

h i d . . . e t

e c . .

e b . . n g t u e F o . . i i o A

. â t q J .

M p

o t r

e K r . N O

.

a

r o a

e o . a m m . G

d P C

. B d & t

o H . i

n o g A

e . E E s a T 2 . h

e a g l L u n

m e l dr i g x p q e n do g

a

i

r e ó

i d

p

#æ a l r b

r

l a r L k p So

s p o

a A s

i

a P a a

a n

s

o o

v B J

i

r

O H P I B

A d r v h a

R

ç A 7 a 5 8 6 S D 4 i 5 1 1 1 1 h 1 a l C I

þ û #÷

1

2 3 4 4 4 4 4

E B A B 5 B D D

......

p ......

......

.

. .

. . .

.

.

. .

. . .

.

.

. .

. . .

.

.

. .

. . . .

.

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

.

.

. .

. .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

. .

. . .

. . .

D D .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

...... a ...... i ...... r ...... e ...... a . . . . . h . . . . . e . . . . . c . . . . . i v ...... v . . . . a . . . e . . . Gá o . e . .

. C . . t g

. . . t . . . a . a . . da e . . .

l . . . c L

. . . c o . o . s i r n y . C C i r . a da c . o

e

a i . o s b m g B C ö i g j a a n r r a a a i o t L L L A B Gu J a

1 7 2 3 8 9 E 0 1 1 1 1

ú

1 5 3 3 3 2 3 E E A 5 5 B C . G4 ...... p p ...... B B ...... e . . . . s t ...... a . . n . t . . . i a . . . e . . i . e . . . b . . . r b ...... F m . . .

m . . . u . . . . . A c . .

o de . .

a . . c o . . i t i o . . . n a g . i e . â . C Me .

t g

dr

o a o i s o da L r B t do

R á

e e h A A t u a m

g e e i o s qu qu s n di r r t g S r a

a a l a h a p J L Mu P P P g i o

1 5 2 3 6 T S 4 æ æ 1 5 2 3 4

w w 150

BOTAFOGO, HUMAITÁ & URCA 4 3 2 1 æ æ H N 4 S T 6 8 U 3 2 5 7 1 R

a o i H M ji P g Mu Mi P P P P P Mu c u T S p a i £ m # A h i ã r r r i e o

r p j s a w a a a e r S D u I t n o i q

1 t t s s T a á i i i F E E s c 4 m u a a o

i a a a M e e de e n a s s g ( Á

8 l e n 1

3 2 a

tr t 2 r u u C V de da t A A 9 d h i a a r p 6 0 e r 2 1

R

a

o a l e

ç C do

û # t 3 A a

ú # 0

á

M

û #

d

û # ã

R s

do

r R n

m C

B U M

a u ç

a a

S o

m

r q

a a t

l

u o

o

e s R ú m di s )

o

r e Í

ã d r

C

P o d r

n o

c a e n

c R t P

c t

e d

C a

o e

a a

ú

# p di

a a

i d

o l i

a

R t

e a ã

de n h o ú #

I r v f a C r . ú # j s á o h o a

. V a 1 . . m o

i d . . . . e R g 5 d 1

R s . . . . 1 7 e o

u . . . . o i c V a . . . . P r 3

u . . . . o C

t o i

. . . . .

d s a

i

i C

n R . . . . . a n co

. . . . . R l

o B G d r

. a . e . . . á i

h a

. . . . . d e l

n a ......

u v G c o . r . . . . .

a

e d a i ......

r d

i n

o . d . . . . .

e d m l b

. e . . . . .

. e a

. z ......

a e

s d o

......

S R ...... a

d a

......

s R

i a

......

. r

l M

...... d

a v

a

e H R

. t ...... B

r

a

e d . i .

. . . . . z

s e a

......

s O . . P . . . . . N

. R

1 1 1 1 1 n . a ......

. R l

. m ......

. o r

T

. e ......

. i V 4

R

B i B

1 1 1 1 v

q r

. â # . .

. . . . . a S

A

S S

. s ......

w a

o

R u R o

. r . . .

. . . . e

S

e o

p . 1 1 1 1 1 ã . . . . F . . . c

e ã l a o e

......

. s b

G u J 1 P

. o ...... a O

o S

. ã ......

5 m

1 1 1

1 n

o ç ......

e

ã B C 2

. G ......

a t

t

M a ...... n

i R

1 1 1 1 1

s S o

R

á a .

......

t l

r p a O

. i ...... C S e a e

u

r n a

. o

...... J a

1 r 1 1 1 . R . . . . m . . .

r o i e l d

j

i p

D . c ......

p o oã

a a

. o ......

n m b i G3 G2 a C D D B 1 1 1 1 1 s 7 a e F 7 F

l a o 0 P n R l 2 i

4 d 3 3 2 3 2 1 1 1 1 t

B o a t é

B

M

a e r 1 1 1 1 l 1

a i r e P i

ú

d R

o r n t

P á

1 1 1 1 e a

i o

a o

1

1 1 s 1 1 1

l t 1

t o 1

r 0 B 4

E 9 6 o r 3 2 5 t 1 1 1 1 1

7

1 a

R o

r i a B r

e a

a t u o 1 1 1 1 A 2 O Mi Me L L J Ga C B E R A t â # ss e 3 u s n u 6 çã i a i m

a o o 1 1 1 1 1 u 2 n s

v R n l a s R i o r r b 1 ÿ # i r i R s z P g p

u 1 1 1 1 a m o a

O R U a a

û # A r M

s o R i

r t o B am l

P . u b

r r i a

i n

f

B a a r C C . Mi B a d

c n r

. Á i i G r

o .

u

a da q B o a a l r . . v P ¡ # o

f

. . a u m r a a l o

. . . m A

H

r d . . . ê . r m s ta

. . .

. R o R

e M l u 2 n s U i

z . . .

. o e B f ji s

u a P 4 4 4 4 . . .

. r

1 r r S f

s 3

Á f e

R O . . . .

. t

r o R e

e

8 á

m Q o

. P . . . . a

ú # e û # ò i l #

c n

. . . . . p l

d h

v o #þ

r e g c i . . . . . e i

x u r

a n o

1 o . . . a . .

i a d M

o R

. . . i . .

1

e r

4 m i d

o a ...... o

n c

i r

4

...... h 6 a

t

i a

. . .

. . . . .

a R t g d

á ......

. . R P

e r o

p a ......

a d u ia ......

a d

m l A ......

a P e e

. a ......

v B

. s ......

. o

o s s v d

4 4 4 4

. A ...... a R os t G

2 N

. g . . . . a . s . . .

. a e . e ...... # ç f

5 m

oé o o

......

Ù # p e ......

R g F 7 . . . .

. s . .

. R . .

2 o . .

. o ...... Se U

l s

...... G

A n a ......

ö r G # M w

......

i m

e v t d ...... v en ......

n a

on e e ...... er P ...... s e 1 n ú # ...... a r ...... r 6 er

g t i N 4 4 4 4 ......

a a s e ......

o . A ......

l t

v n a e i ......

. w

D D R

r L e ¡ # ......

P T

a l s

o o

......

u u A

. r . . . . .

. . . .

a ú t

o P M

......

. v S o o r . d ......

s r n

é a ......

( r o

m O ...... s e

...... s M w A r m ...... v l s . . . .

. . . . .

r a

e V d ...... v .

o o 2

e a ...... #þ . d

e n a

. r . . . o . . . . .

d 4 . . .

. c . . . . .

o l d e p

e d ......

2 s o

. i o G2 o D G2 C

A A A A l r 7

F a 3 u a C 3 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 B ) r ru

w ás z û 2 2 1 1 2 0 D 9 8 2 1

r O C C C B Ga C B i n a a a a a o

P k r r v l ba r b a

l

i

o

e e B U a n

v

t r

b

r

l

u

g

e

r

a

n

e

E

E

d

c e r

k

a t da & o a a u o

L .

. . . . w H N . . . . o

. . . . U s . . . . u u i . . . . r k g . . . . m n . . . . c i . . . . h g . . . . . a a . . . . . t e . . . . . i ...... l t ...... i ...... á f ...... e ......

...... F F ...... ( ...... ( . . . . . s ( s . . . . . s . . . . . e e . . . . . e . . . . . e . . . . . e p . . . . . e

. . . 1

C C A A A 1 7

0 9 1 4 4 4 4 4 4 ) ) )

þ

Ø

ÿ 2 2 2 2

4 S 6 3 5 S S

h p l e H C R B o o e i o a o J p r o p s t e s t p

a Su i s a t s n i e f

u n o d & g l s l G G

g g e

C

Sh A .

o

. D o .

c . n P a . o t . t r n . p i . e a v . ç . m i i . a a t i . n .

i p . C Sh e . g o . s a . . . r

. . r o e . . l . . p i an . . n . . . . h . . . i . e n . o . . . o . . g s . . . . .

. . . . de ......

. . . .

...... H H ...... p ...... p p . . . . 1 D D C C 7 7 1 6 6 6 4 4 2 2

4 3 2 1 151 BOTAFOGO, HUMAITÁ & URCA 1 2 3 4

2 2 4 4 m 6 6 6 k 1 7 7 C C D D 1 . . a . . 1 p p . . . . r s . . . . p e . . . . e a . . . . l d . . . . i b

...... a a m a . . . . í . . . . r n . . . . 5 a . . . . a . o ) ...... B . . C 0 ã ua . . . H H .

m . . . . r C . . . . o G e

R 2 . . . . r a . . . . e 7 d . . r . .

(

c . . . . d

o . . . . a . . . . ú a i . . . . r . . . . M a ç de . . . . o r

. . . A . . F P s g . . o . . . o . e n e . i . ) . . # Ù h d . .

. . m n . . an 4 4 4 i pp o 5 . . l . . e 9 o r . ã .

r . . 3 . a s P ( . o o g .

n e Sh C .

a p

i

i 1 . n

r R . ##ææ i o t a a

l . i i m

F . ç a . v a # ¤ e d . i pp . n r

e t . t 4 4 4 4 4 o m . a P n A

a .

l c

A . o D . C

o

.

A

Sh

s C

R e g g

o G G l s

ã l e i

g

t & d o

U n

u s

v f e i 9 a

l n

b t s

e a

s Su i

a é

e p

r t A s

t e

s

f

S p f

o o

#ú

r p

a J

o o

a 4 4 a o i i

r e

s G i

ã o

í

o o e

o

r

S B R C H

e h

r d

u i d

u p l o h

v

0 d

o 0 n

C

L

A n

á

1 i

o 5 3 S S 6 â S

l d 4

i u

o 1

v

C 5

á 2 C 2

ã 2

2 #æ

t u b t o R

o

O

a o

#

r

J u þ Ø ÿ

a R

e R

#ú c v t r r C

A r

s o

i U

4 4

) ) ) U P 4 4 4 4 4 4

M 1 9 6 0 # a Ù

7 1 A A A C C

1 . . . 2

d e . . . . . p

e . . . . . ) 1 #ú l e . . . . . e o a

8

. . . . . e

a # ¤ a i e r . . . . . r s m o

r

. . . . . s e r r i ( s 5 . . . a . . a e

e ( á c ...... d o t r t 1 ( # Ù

b ......

i u r n

...... n 2

t p e a ...... a .

e 4 4 4 4 M ( ú R or a n

...... r í a

n r ......

a b 5 e i G p . .

......

a i i

C F F

...... m

4 l P l ......

# ¤ B ç

m T 1 # ua a ......

e e

s ...... d h P

p

...... e G c

e

H ...... A

e ...... S

r ...... m ji R a ......

...... o n M # . ¤ ...... o .

...... m . G a r R ...... 4 R 4 ...... R . # › ...... nco ...... a eu ......

Fr t ...... o

l ...... e

s r ......

a i ...... d g a

......

e

......

a

u . . . . .

P . . .

n t e ...... d

r ...... i a f a a

v á ...... i

o i

)

s ...... t J d

l e . . . .

A . . i

r

P n

u . . . . . o e

t

m e . . . . . e q o a ô

v a i g

. . . . . g

l 5 r a r h v

d . . . . i A i

o R c i

n . . . . r 3 n

d f

m . . . . g k r b

e n o

a o . . . . i 2

a a i u u s . . . . a s

H ( t U . . . . e U

o

R o . . . . N M B

s o

H

w . . . .

b m

. L

n r B

o o u

a a

o

& da t a

a E

e k r o

D e c d i E E

e n

e B d a

r e g u

l e r b r

R i t

d t v

n a U e B

u e o

n i

a

l e a o

b r ba l v R a r r

r

d k d f P

i

i

o a a a v a a

l

n s e n I A i

a r C Ga B O C C C B

n r v r e

a e A 1 v 2 8 9 D J 0 i

d 2 1 1 2 n 2

e e

û U F d

s w

á

r )

B

3 3 3 3 4 4 4 3

u 3

a F 7

l A A A A C G2 D G2

.

s 2

......

e p

...... c . .

......

n e

. .

. . .

. .

. . e

.

.

. . .

. .

. .

V

e

. .

. . .

. .

. .

v

. .

. . .

. .

. .

A w s

.

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

. .

.

(

. .

. .

. .

. .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

. .

. . .

. . .

. . .

D D .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

. . .

...... á ...... t ...... i ...... o e . . i . . . a i . . a . . . x . . . . . c r . . . . . c a . . . . . m á e r . . . . . f . . . . P u s . . . .

U e . . . .

s m . . . . r H . . .

a r m a . . P . . r a o

da a u .

i i . c d a B Mi . C C r B

i a

r u .

l t r i o s

a a U O a m o a

u p g z i i r r b r s a l n v u o a m i a i u t E Ga J L L Me Mi O B C a

1 7 5 2 3 9 6 E 4 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

ú

2 3 2 3 3 4 2 0 F 7 F 7 B D D C G2 G3 ...... p ...... p ...... B B ...... a ...... s ...... o ...... b ...... r ...... o ...... a . . . . . h . . . . . B o . . . . .

n . . . . . i i d . . . . . t . . . . u . . . . a o . . . . u . . . . R g . . . .

o m . . . a o o s . r C f

h de a a l

a a di o t P c e a c n

Í r o di ú s

m ç u a U B r do s

á A t C do e l

e h A A t da de V C u u

g n de e e a a a i

a s i i i a s s t o t S r a a a s

ã i r r r h p P Mi Mu Mu P P P P g i o

1 7 5 2 3 8 6 T S 4

æ æ 1 2 3 4

152

flamengo, LARANJEIRAS & COSME VELHO

0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles i A 1 1 B Cj D E F G R 1 1 1 s T ende r o M a See map i did gr u Cân A Marina da A w n R Glória¡# v # r p154 f 22 D o in B Glória R njam ú# 14 e Be t ir R stan a 1 on e M 1 Morro de ¤# C a Santos R et r t Largo do Á o a Ü# 4444

Rodriguez mar 2 R u R Guimarães to A C

u r an A e S r R o Ladeira de i a l

d r p Nossa e ã s a R It o Senhora s R 4u 444 R R e ico is ér o m d A

o R dr Pe R R o rtins4g 444 F R eira Ma o a Catete R Silv n l e g 2 e t T e 2 t an o ú Morro da ¡#â# #þ#÷ n r n 10ú# 4 7 e i ri n m d e Nova Cintra a m R m 19 l l n l â# a F A a S (267m) 5 F l a R F a x Co l R e n rr e R o e l êa 44o 44

Fe

t D d R u r t A a tr et re d

a t ir

a a E B a V e

a ia i

l n

a o a u i a

r C b s r q b r s

a i e o P a

r L a d R P u 11 B V o ú# u t R d 4444 a i e r n q s ar M u M ia e a e c n nt ce o e B d n e R o Praia do t R D i G ois de Ù#

Deze e Flamengo R mb

#æ ro u w Parque 3 q 3 Largo do 4i 444 lva a da Si Guinle 1 r eir o is n Per R inh Machado do Ass R 9 #÷ ut Macha e o R o e E C V# go ¡# H p 6 #ú g li R r Ga as 13 f R ir e je n F u an Largo do m Morro So 20 r e o r La o ã t # as 4444 d D Jo Judas Tadeu R Machado m f a e e (246m) l r LARANJEIRAS endi FLAMENGO t Baep F P e de n d a Con #û o R s R #û 18 f

a Pç São d ir # #ú n w je 21 12 I Salvador a

n 17 i

a v 4#÷ 444 r

a o R Barão do a A T ã r r C Julio Ot L R S o R Esteves 8

ú Dr o s R d P o a l R a Flamengo n n p m d v Júnior i i l 4 e R ra Sa 4 p l n #û r R R R Parque do g u V i 15 A d I d i a L n o R

li e a F4lamengo 444 16

o M c s o w e #û i s á t i l rio e a P u Por L R tela a lice e A a P R l

R

r o 4444 o ni r Jú i

o e

s u w o g

d r

r e a V C r R o 5 d 5 a n e S R

6 6

A B C D E F G

153 flamengo, LARANJEIRAS & COSME VELHO

7

2 F ...... e t e t a C o d e u q r a P ) 4 e e s ( ...... a c i l b ú p e R

6 4 1

3 D ...... s a r i e j n a r a L s a d o i c á l a P a D u e s u M o ç a p s E 1 F ...... a i r ó l G a d a n r e b a T

2 2 3 1 2 F ...... o r i e n r a C 1 G ...... o i R n i l i a S ) 1 e e s ( ...... o r u t u F i O l a r u t l u C o r t n e C 3 E ...... a z e n a b i L o i r í S

5 8 p t n e m n i a t r e t n E 5 1 2 2 1 n o s i d E e r o l c l o F e d u e s u M 4 E ...... l i s a r B u t a c a r a M 4 E ...... s ' i g i u L ý

4 1 1

2 F ...... a c i l b ú p e R a d u e s u M ) 2 2 e e s ( ...... o i R o d r a M 3 F ...... l l i r G e t e t a C

3 0 1 8 1 0 2 5 A ...... o i r á c i t o B o d o g r a L 2 E ...... o d n a c o i r a C 4 F ...... r e u a r B r r e H 3 D ...... s e a r o M d r a n r e B

g n i t a E 3 8 p 5 8 p s e i t i v i t c A & s t r o p S 7 1 1 F ...... o r i e t u O o d a i r ó l G

4 F ...... a s s a v e D

ú Ø

2 6 1 a d a r o h n e S a s s o N e d a j e r g I 4 F ...... e t n o m l e B

4 4 4 4

1 9 5 1 9 1 3 F ...... o r u t u F i O l a r u t l u C o r t n e C 3 D ...... e l n i u G e u q r a P 4 C ...... m i f a r e S o d r a B 2 F ...... r i a F e g a m I d n a y h p a r g o t o h P

s t h g i S 1 8 p 4 8 p e f i l t h g i N & g n i k n i r D 5 8 p g n i p p o h S 8

4 F ...... o g n e m a l F o d e u q r a P

æ û þ

A C G E D B F j i

4 4 4

A 4

o g o f a t o B

) m k 3 ( r o t n e d e R r o t s i r C

B P

Ù # v

R

e d a i a r P o g o f a t o B 0 5 1 p

r a

d

a M

r

e d a d a e s n E o

p a m e e S

i

r D T

a

s

u F e

) m 3 6 3

( ú e

r

n N d t

n n

a

o

a t r a M a n o D

R n i e

4 4 4

a 4 e d

z

6 6

C

e

ç

o

s l

B

e t n a r i M

u a

o

d

n

# ÷ t

i A l

a

O o

s

e o ê

u

r

q r A

a n s

M R

t

R v b

a c u j i T a d

a d U

I

a

n

f

n r a r a b a n a u G

f e

o l a n o i c a N

a

i é

d

g

n S

a

e d a í a B

t

a r i e u g i F o e u q r a R P R s

e

A

o

e

D P

v

s e d n a n r e F o d

o b

l v

R r

o

m o N

u o

o t u t i t s n

I a i

o f u H

B R d

o d a v o c r o C o r r e

v F

A

n

a ç

e

u L

R r s

v G M b

n a

e d a d a r t s u E

O o

á O

r

u s

g e

R i s

a i s

R J s

a v ú i V

q

R a v

£ n # a d o ã ç a t s E

B R

R a

a o

M e u

O H L E V

l a d o r r o M

r C d

o

d

ç a a n r S

e u

a

o J

R a

d a

a

R r e

E M S O C R

C

o

n l w

q

h o

h

n

r

l

t

I G

e

u u t

) m 8 2 1 ( a

c

V

a

a

z

e n ê

m

s l R

o

a C

m i d

o v o N o d n u M h 5 5 s c

e

R

o

i

M é

d

b

a

o r r o M

d # æ

r

r r a

e

i

C

a o

c i I

o

V o

r

A

ã e 3

i r

d a

e a

b

e

B r

r

r d

r a R n j e

a

i

r a s L

n o i r u G n e B

h s a g o g n e m a l F ¡ #

o a

d w

n n R

s

u

i

o d i v a D ç P t

e

J e

P

ú

i

n s r i

o

r R o

w

4 4

3 3

2 2

1 1

A C B E D G F 154

santa teresa & LAPA

4 6 3 2 5 7 1

T

R ú ¤ # M n

e

l

R

i

A R

S

g

w

a S

R N L

n u l P

G

m t e

a

P e a

e p

a

e

r

B

r o

l v

i d 1

i

o

a g

r n

r e 5 m

r n

a g

b o

o

e

a s 2 n r

ç r R

a e

t a d A a s p

e T R

a F

R s

l A A

( A

rão v e o Re v

A i d N

s r

s hg

1

r e e

l k o e M

e e i m s

x g s

O C

a e a a

)

n r m D R i a

d R 1 e

M n

5 n W

r o

t e

i n d

n t #û e

e a c

e L

r e

leg P

o A a s

a ç u

r

h S d

i

n

a

a

C

r i d

á

d n R a

R

e

S

g e

a

p a

n t

ú

t

l o

o b

s

S

n l i

L

c

o

R

b a

e o

L Á

u b u V r

e P a a i

s e

C

s ç

r

R C S a o

i r a l o p s

m m S

a a t

R C C

a i

m a

d R ã r

e

Fe n

o r

u 8 o l

l P p

s t o

A l

h

l i m R

a z

ci a

#ú S

s B B o

#ú

i a s â #

r L

a n

o a

M

h c

n n R

t

e d

A e l e

e a

t r

x 1

a

o g

e m l e a

o

3 A d 4 e g s t n

o

n

M

R a

n

d o

l

r e o i n

o

S

R R

U

d

e e a

9 i

#ú r L a

b

d a R o

d l n C

d

a

i

n

s

o R

t o a F

r

A

o

m

T

r d

a

r R

a

r

a i

u o

l

R

n

L e

n T A

n

f S

a c d z o

E r

é d

i e A

C F s e

R a

v n i

a

r N Á l

c a

G c d

E â

d

a n L t T ¤ i # T e u o S

a

A

i I

d C m A r

M

g a R

e s t a r o o

A A r

R

d ã n 2

e o i

a 2

d s

R

d C

C c

#þ o s

r h I n

a v R á

u l i

d d R o e s

e R J d oa l 1 T a #ú q o

2 e u

i 2 R ÿ m # r 2

e 4 e 0

â

s # M l

6 a

ó A #ý

v

u ç p G

o

r m ã

o e

R t B s o

#þ 2

A i

e F #ý

l #ú n

r

i e

r #ú

1

s i

v

n r

R 7 h ö # e

a o

1 1 M

S r 1 9

3 R

a 1

e

n d M

t i n m

a o o

do ant u

s S R C

R r

d

d r t o

i i L

s D

n a

e

t v

r

i i a

n a h

R d

a i S s o o D

D R

S R Francisco Muratori Pe

á dr d N o I

a e o

ji n R

S B b

S t d

e a r

p o e e o p e ÿ r R Silvio Rome # ro e

1

A r s 1 5 L m

o 5 m 2 m A A

s 2 6 a

a

3 r p

a P c p r o A

o j i s #û #û Ü #

ira d #ï

e e #æ

Lad Santa Te

res a E

E F F 4 6 5 3 2 7 1 155 santa teresa & LAPA

) 1 1 1 1 7 5 5 2 2 3 2 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 4 6 4 4 2 6 6 3 6 6 4 4 9 0 5 1 D D C 0

E E E E E E E E B B C A D D D B C B C C D 0 0 9 0 0 . 0 . . 1 1 ...... e 1 1 1 1 1 ...... p ...... p p e . . . . p . p ...... p p p ...... s ...... ( ...... t ...... n ...... a ...... a ...... i t ...... r ...... s ...... a u a ...... n s ...... l n é ç t ...... o ...... f e a ...... a C

t t o o . .

...... a C i ......

h

e l r o s s . . o ...... s o ...... f n c s e n s s c ...... o a g i i d H f i . . . i ......

l a ó e e e ...... p n t i a ...... t r d í r r a n m ...... C t o n . . .

r . . . . s a o n h i u

C g g s a ...... r g a l a

m i r . . . j . . . a t o A u r t a v t g i o o . . . . . e .

R e p a i i s . . . . u .

c n c r r a n e r o i . . . . n . e H a t o S p . . . . . r e s

i á r e e m

a e N d P P . . . . . a n c L

. .

. . M a a i a

a l h D a G o

S . . . R a B B s S

i l

. . .

o o L

A m

d d a n e & é . .

t r o C

G M

a l

a e . . e o 0 ã ã

g

o o o v e n d e . o a r e h í

V g a t i p t u e ç r ç & d g d u 4

o o n n c i

i i

ç

d z d u s u s

i

g z a a n g e r e n G a o d d i a a s S d d i a í a

a a t i e i

a s a q e o è

p g L s n r V c t r

s t r r r r r t a r n n c v i S p p p p c k n r o l r p n a u

m i a i a a a i a i r p a a e s s é s r i u e a e a u h e t n o o h p t t i

a F D V E E M T B L S C L R F L E A C C F M P A B E e g

d r p l h i o n a

h

n r 1 1 1

7 a 7 a

5 5

2 2 3 2 3 3 8 S S 8

6 9 6 9 D E S T S E 4 4 4 0 M 0

a a 1 r

1 i 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 e

1 1 2 B 2 2 2 M v G A

Ø ÿ û ý þ æ æ ú ç P 1 7 2 5 3 6 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

m

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

o s

i

0

# ¡

o ç

r

a e r

o n v 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 e

A S

c a t

o P

a

n t a s i i I

ç

a u 4

r i g s

u P B A

d o o e v 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o A e i P D i

l R c r n a

v or i

i o i A e l

i l â N 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 F

r s

l F e

m

#¡

b

s ó e s

 e

o l

0 e 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 i 0

s a

ú

t 2 e n t

a L a

. d C i a G

P

o F F P d

M P E

0 R

e C a e

o atet r

d N C

d i do

3 I ia R R da Glór

1 e R

v C x

A a i

s g

a e i

nt e o V

a T pa

c D a a

r L es i

d a ag

o R d e L r

d d t

o

R e é

a t

#¡ nd

n a o

n

s C e i R

o m

r p

S a

#

a ú 0

a t A g s

R a m v

1 a

a r

a s

a G E e L

o o

d

i s

l a

e c r n

d é R

l L

l

a e

L i

o R d

o o to n

r

i a

d e r

g h

a

r e e

e C

e o

l

r P

r

a a

C T

# y ¤ d

i d

a a M n a

n T

r R C i r

n a R

L

o a v ó ta l o

m i o

a s

i m

d a S r o

0 0 0 C 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 n â n d

u

B i

d i

g m t d a a a i a l ##ææ j

a r C i

ç u r a d a

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

P 0 q g E E S a n

c 1 P

o 2 a e n

i el

d c s

e

l a o M n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 â 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o

c J s e i S o r

b bl t r B # æ

ú R E n m a C ú 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

ep 0 i r

R e B R 8

a P

R

Av s e # ý

1 H

0 e 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 R p e

r d

0 0 e R

T R

6 a

t

4 n

L a

1 a S d v e #æ e d i r #ï a #

e A 7 5 # Ü 1 # û #û s o c r A s o d

R

D D C C B B A A 1 7 5 2 3 6 4 156

centro & PRAÇA MAUÁ

4 6 3 2 5 7 1

P

ç #¡ A (

d R

a 4

R q

e # û 2 5 R

p R

R R d u

S

ú 0

0 R F

b P V

a a

C

l

e

i S R

d c D m

R d a p R Á

r

a

R T

e a

o A C

o m e e r

e 1 é i

m )

T d S

o

e g l 5 s

m

n A o

d S f

R o u B a i z 4 e r I â e

a h v e

o d a

M

e u n s

o n l

e R p

M i z h

S e d n A A r

n

A

e P

o n o S e hg

e d a d te

# n ý o

R n o g r

o A

d o

e

d o

a e m

s a s s

I A

n Ú

e c J

v C

2

á d A S

l p

o

i P v d h

D w R

o 1

a

o

R s i

A

e g

a a e

g r

e P

n s

t E

e e s u

l o

F A e i r t j

ó s s F e r

R o l d

o o

s s

a

A A i r v

de

G 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 i 0

R

B

G

o

o a n

a ç

l v m

R

A e

s

L e

d o

e n d

s R

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0

n a

o

v

F o

C

r

e

t o

i

r R S n

M l e 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 e 0 0 0

c a

e a

i T

d V ç

e 0 ã 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o P c

i a a

r

m

A a

ç

a v r

0 0 0 0 0 0 R 0

0 0 0 0 0

C P V

d

g a

d d

P M s o

s

D a d

L a o u

0 o e 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0

a

ç s

v

A a l

e s a

r n r ô n a

R L R

e

d a a

v j

i 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d s 0 d

o m te

or S

a

M

t e R R C 1 â

#

o C

i o á a i 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0

R 0 s

B

B P r e t 3 n R e d

ro n

j

I L c a

u a o

p e

i

u R ã 0 ç 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r b

d

i d d

ú R

ço o

í o

s o r

o s U

b

A a

r n

s

u

l d d J l r

i g

c R a d o

u

A e

P 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

a P

a

a s

U S R i

r

d C a

ç ã

S c C Ç d n

0 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o a

a L a a T o u M o a a H â

#

n L d

m e a s o M g n 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 C 0 s

a C #¡ m r on e ó

Fr u

õ t

t R g e

A a r

A h f 7 v

a m

e A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 a

P e

R g i

o c

e r

i a l te

p r

l i

l s o e U a

ú R

i o #ï o

e a R

b o n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d

l i u M c O

n

Á i

a c

d a t c e

A

d l

a i

o r v

a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 t 0 0

i a

i e R

a R

P V n

s

S o L

i

a k

e o

r

J a i B

i c

d g

I g l n

0 r 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

o a v a u R

E

A n o o a

a a M i c i

o S

q d A r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0

La u R

c S A

o u

i m 2

R

m os

0 0 0 0 0 0 a 0 0 0 0 0

0 Ü # s S

G R D B R M p

n o â #

a ã

eu

n o R

o M

a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

ta ç o L

o

o

a nhã

C s 6

n i

¤ l # V g

a v m

P r

C C

e á

L R u d G a B

s i

T r r

C a R s R r e d

ç

m

a D r

e

o g e

e i l i a c

L

i a o E C G

o I

r R

s T o

n

P o

r

o

to

v 1

a L N d go o # ú

a e é

C n

l e t 8 c u e i i R

p o d e

r C o o s

E t

i a ó d r s o E a a a

t a d

d e a X f

L o

N

r i ¡ #

A a

a l r  v I

d i o

R

R n

d o

d T

a i A C

o

R

S R

N h R B e c

V e O

r o

R

Ü e #

a l

n a

a

R T

n d f

e d

i a

F D

c o t ú â n

d o

i e o

d O

e g

o o r

n m tu

o a M t

I r O e 5 i

R

D n

r P

x A A r i

P d m a

i e

a u a

o i

r

v C

e o

t i r i a n d

o v e e

t

a

M s 1

i a

i a

r 3 #ï r s g ent ç s d

s e o

a o a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

io 0

r B

A 2 A l # ý 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 v a P P r i B

m R

1 2

o ú R v n a

A 1 Á 2 S

1 þ # 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 P

# û

s l

v b

c

a A

9 A

R e a N # #æ æ

r # æ 3 r C s ç o

l d t

1 o v n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 e

l

s

i a e

G i m P M u

c

i Q

¡ # a

A l

d i

o o u

o a o d l 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

l i e l â #

P l n i a

C

d 9 t n m t r n

# ú D D

o

a S R P

h or R a u i n o 0 0 0 0 0 0 d 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

t 1 d e n f i # â # a

a n # ú e A r d e D 4 r # æ h R t 1

t 1 e

a Lu t a e 0 0 0 0 a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o t

r ç 5

7 #þ i R

m e

l m # P n æ

e

a A R â

3 l

A a o

4 e t P A

ú A S s b d z n

v a e

d n o

d l s

R j v ç r

2 e ã

d

i

o e M

o r o o

B h

E o

B g

4 m e

i o

A

r B

v

r r a a

r 1

R a

r G a

r c

n J

a b 1

o c M L

a r

e 6 a a ç

o r

é a

s o d

l 2

x e

A r é i o

r

c g m

a s o os

s n # i ú # æ h a a s a o e a o â # E

E F F 4 6 5 3 2 7 1 157 centro & PRAÇA MAUÁ

) ) ) 1 1 5 5 5 5 3 3 3 3 3 2 3 5 5 2 4 4 6 4 6 4 4 6 4 6 8 2 6 0 2 8 0 B C F E 8 A 9 9 9 A D C D D C D B D D D D 9 D D D C D D D 9 . . 1 1 2 . .

......

p . . p p p ...... p p ...... e e e ...... e e e ...... a ...... s s i s . . . .

......

( . ( ...... r ( ...... á & ...... l

a ...... r ...... e a ...... i ...... u d ...... c t o ...... l i n . . . . . l...... i . . . . . r n ...... s e ...... a s . . . . a b ê ...... e r ...... L ...... t a o C t

...... i

i r e ...... m r ...... e ...... n e n ...... d e B A ......

d e l

...... d . . . . . ô

e v

...... t o s a ...... P . . . . s F o

...... a . . . .

d n a ...... n ê r

l ...... a . N a ......

o A u o o o . e ...... i

d ç i ......

e i o g . c ...... h c i o B c o t ......

o d u t . l ...... r n n a

s . b ...... R t c e e . l

...... l a ) ã n é a e r ...... f u N s d . o ...... a

a i e o a n i h m

S i ...... B J o l m l

...... z p o r c p d o n o S l l ...... t i i

i P l

a a . o e ......

c n á n a . . . a a . . . . c c t i i h c e l o e o s ...... n i i r r s e C a r . . . . . t . t m

l u a n g a t s . . . . . n . d r o m i r n n C u u o i i .

. . . . ó i

n o e a . . . . . e t t o a r F Q N t u i u u o A . . . . . l l A i o c R

a

e N

. . . . . ( d r

S n e s i r

q .

. . . N h

i u u i a a o

. r o e M M o e s p o nt .

a O e i n V o m c b a l ã &

. C C o e l t a i d d H N ã l m r

e . s

o o l g r i t a e d n X F . o m d d S v i

h e r r

e v . i s o t o

I g u u u u e j u n A

t t G a d r r ó e a s

i

a r a

g n e a k a a

o e e e e n n f t t q t i l r j j i a a o n i i s t s é ç ç a v l p g s e o s s s s s n e f i n n r a e e e e d ç r t S a i a l k a a a e b p n u u u u r r

C r a a o e e r e e r i r m r e a r e h h r i h n g g o p t t i A T C T B G P R T B C C C A W P C M B C I I M M M P P g r h i o a n

1 1 1 7 7 5 5 2 2 3 2 3 3 8 8 6 9 6 9 S E D E T S 4 4 4 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 þ ú û ý æ æ 1 7 2 5 3 6 4

m

á

s o o

e t

t or

0 n

d h

i a

e a l

d 0 d i

a s

r ó

l u

usto u a

e l J 4

e a

r F i r e

n g

v Ge t

a A

l l q r s n d 2 i

b

a a

e t

b e 2

a E m

a

P S

A S í 0 0 0 0 0 0 ç

n o i N

8 2

e a

. P e

ç d

o 0 0 0 0 0 d 0

B

0 d

ua t P F F

#

â

o a

G 0 0 0 0 0 0

y v

h

r

l

e

r I

0 0 0 0 0 0

t r

l e

o

l

T

e

l F

t

i w

v

a

i h y

e

z

r

l c

s

u r l r

a L

o

a e u

h a

o

c t F

a h s

c

s n

a r

a i R

e a i

a C o o

o r

l

i ç

F S

r s

F

o

g

d i c v

d á b d P a e l l

a a r t

v n a

d n A

o

e

o I

h h ó

e

M n l l A

i  R C

c u c

l

I i

u r

o

ç r e q m

s a

g r

e e a P u d a

d l

s l

a J

i A

a q d a

o l o i F

o P

i c p r

d l M e d r i c n

s

a R a d

e c o

a l e a

c i

r a r l 0 n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

O i

c a

r

M H

n o

M C a o

a z

e s

o o i l E E L r

r

n i 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 u 0

0 0 0

0 0 0

0 l P J

ô u

R m t

ç e

n a

b D E 0 0 W L

o M u e A o

P

M

t R

0 e 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0

t 0 n n T D M t

a e a

m id

) t

s n

a

y M re e S

e e

0 n 0 0 r 0 0 0 0 0 t 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 P

e

#

r v i

A d n a

e r m i

z

A e

o s

a

0 S 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 e 0

V f B

n D e

C i r

F n

v

X R e Nov I

0 P

0 0 0 0 0 0 u 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A

d

v

1 v

ç t e

e A Q r A b R 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 e P ( d R D # â ha #æ #ú ran aça A Av Gr

D D C C B B A A 1 7 5 2 3 6 4 158 BARRA DA TIJUCA & western RIO

0 5 km e# 0 2.5 miles A B CAMOCRIM D E F FURNAS G J E Av Em a s VARGEM baixador a Riocentro s ÿ# c t e 13 n a r t Abelardo Bueno a Parque GRANDE Convention n n r

e ep d ITANHANGÁ

a e #æ Pedra Nacional da Center ir 3 S a a VARGEM e d c Bonita w a d a d Tijuca B n n s n n u o d a e þ# g e j (690m) e PEQUENA o 10 d i B ll u Estrada do i Fashion 1 da ra s Lagoa de t R 1 o r tra nte a d A á T Es s d r Jacarepaguá y Itanhangá Mall stra o da E A ad io (3km) s v e lv Lagoa da R Gávea Golf & a a A v S Bosque Tijuca Itanhangá Estrada Country Club Dw o v da Barra 6 7 8 N A Campo #ýþ# þ# Golf Club da Barra

e A #ý 11 d v das Américas Av da Tijuca w o Olímpico þ# 9 das A Ù# o d BARRA DA mé rtad n r 444 Co i de Golfe ic

Sítio do v TIJUCA as Praia do

nal n w Ca Ca w Pepino Burle Marx e Lagoa apendi nal de Ma i

B s Parque do de Mar ÿ# rapend ¡# #û

(9km) Av Gilka érica Marapendi Ù# D Am Jardim 5 w Machado das Costa 12 4 Av 444v Lúcio 4444444Oceân4ico Prai4a de 444 A 2 RECREIO DOS Joatinga 2 BANDEIRANTES Ponta do s Marisco Canal da #÷ 2 Ù#Praia do Recreio A T L A N T I C T4axas 41 44d4os Bandeir4antes 444444O C E A N4444 â# Pontal A B C D E F G æ Sig4hts 444p107 4û Drink4ing & Nightlife p110 7 UCI – New York City Center ...... E1 11 Village ...... E1 1 Casa do Pontal ...... A2 5 Balada Mix...... F2 2 Parque Ecológico Chico þ Shopping p111 ÿ Sleeping p117 Mendes...... B2 ý Entertainment p110 8 Barra Shopping ...... E1 12 Brisa Barra Hotel...... E2 3 Parque Olímpico ...... D1 6 Cidade das Artes ...... D1 9 Rio Design Center ...... D1 13 Hilton Barra...... D1 4 Praia da Barra da Tijuca...... E2 Citibank Hall...... (see 10) 10 Via Parque Shopping...... E1

159 N O TES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Emily Rose Yates Emily first visited Rio de Janeiro in 2013, and instantly fell in love with its vibrancy, stunning views and the love of life that the cariocas show so well. She then went to work for MetroRio, and advised on accessibility for one of Rio’s main transport systems until 2015 (while spending most weekends haggling at the Hippie Fair or adapted surfing in Leblon). Emily delivers access consultancy all over the United Kingdom and abroad, works for the user-led disability aware- ness charity Enhance the UK, and is also a television presenter. She currently lives in Glasgow.

Regis St Louis Regis first visited Rio back in 2003, and he fell hard for the stunning landscapes, the dynamic music scene, and the open and celebratory spirit of the cariocas. Since then he’s been a frequent visitor, celebrating Carnaval (sometimes parad- ing with a samba school), experiencing the great outdoors (climbing Pão de Açúcar, hiking remote western beaches), and charting the city’s ever-changing dining scene and nightlife. Regis’ articles on Rio and South America have ap- peared in the Chicago Tribune, the Telegraph, on BBC.com and elsewhere. He is also the coordi- nating author of Lonely Planet’s Brazil and South America on a Shoestring guides. He splits his time between New Orleans and the tropics.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 1st edition – August 2016 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 763 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’