Investigation of Grey Fabric Mechanical Property Changes Due to Desizing and Scouring Process Rajeshkumar

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Research Article Volume 10 Issue No.5 Investigation of Grey Fabric Mechanical Property Changes Due to Desizing and Scouring Process Rajeshkumar. S1, Ashok Kumar. A2, Chandru. S3, Kavyashree. A. V4, Kowshika. C5 Department of Textile Technology Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, India

Abstract: This research paper made for the analysis of grey fabric mechanical property changes in desized and scoured woven fabric by varying the threads per inch of fabric using same yarn count. The samples are desized and scoured for testing and they were used for further analysis. The different test are conducted to analysis the impacts on fabric geometrical construction and their physical properties. The fabric properties depends on the constructional parameters, methodology and machine conditions. Various parameters such as tensile strength and elongation has been discussed. These results are made to predict the values. The size paste in warp yarns are removed in desizing and unsized weft yarns are also has an impact during desizing. It was found that the tensile strength of the samples is higher in grey stage than in desizing and scouring and the elongation of the fabric is increased in further processing stages.

Key words: Cotton fabric, Construction, Desizing, Scouring, Tensile Strength & Elongation.

I. INTRODUCTION throughout the study. The samples of two plain weave having different threads per inch with same yarn count of 40s ring spun This study shows the investigation of grey fabric mechanical yarn is taken in both weft and warp directions. The different property changes due to desizing and scouring process. This temperature of 60ºc is maintained for desizing and 90ºc for attempt has been made to study the effect of warp and weft scouring process.. direction of yarn, ends per inch and picks per inch on weaving performance and fabric properties and this will be helpful 2.1 MATERIALS forcontrolling the effect of fabric before processing by the count, The sample which is available at grey stage of 40s ring spun EPI and PPI, Better understand of weaving process, yarn count is used for this experiment. The fabric construction at manufacturing fabric more efficiently and to predict the grey stage is determined and further test were conducted. variation in technical properties in the fabric from technical and Hydrochloric acid (Hcl) and TRO( wetting agent) is used for technology point of view. [4] Fabric is made up of textile desizing process to remove the sizing material present in grey material by fibers and yarns to form a thin or thick sheet. The fabric. NaOH, Na2Co3 is used for scouring process which fabric or cloth is like a sheet material made up of interlacement removes all natural impurities. Thus the fabric is prepared at or interlocking or nonwovens. The woven fabric is produced by these stages by using these materials. the interlacement of two set of yarns called warp yarn from longitudinal way and weft yarn from transverse way. By varying 2.2 GREY PROCESS the interlacements it is possible to produce different designs like The fabric is unprocessed or unfinished which is not dyed, plain, twill, satin etc... Threads per inch and yarn count are some bleached or processed is called grey fabric. Samples made in this of the most important parameters that affect both weaving study are woven as per the required threads per inch having 170 performance and fabric property.[11] Experimental studies were and 182of using same ring spun yarn count 40s. The fabric is conducted by weaving fabrics with three different picks per inch woven in plain weave structure. As per requirement, Sample 1 (PPI) and weft counts. The study shows that weaving having EPI of 85, PPI of 85 and the total threads per inch of 170 performance is affected by the too high cover factor. Cover is designed weaved. Sample 2 having EPI of 90, PPI of 92 and factor was calculated by dividing the threads/inch by the square total a thread per inch of 182 is made and tests are made to root of the English cotton count and end breakage was taken as analyze geometrical construction and effect on physical an indication of weaving performance. It was observed that properties. when the count as well as threads/inch of one series of yarn changes the crimp% i.e. the consumption of both series of yarns 2.3 DESIZING are affected. It was also observed that, as expected, when the The desizing process is carried on grey fabric, to removal the threads/inch increases the fabric strength also increases but at size material in the fabric. Here two different samples are taken higher threads/inch the gain in strength is relatively more.[5] to process the fabric in the bath. As per standard recipe the

II. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY desized process is carried out respectively. First, the two different samples at grey stage are taken and it is weighed. The In this study, cotton fabric is taken at grey stage and it is desized hydrochloric acid (HCL) is used to hydrolyzethe starch present and scoured. The samples are tested to analyze the effect of in fabric. TRO (Wetting agent) is used to wet the material inside tensile properties in desized and scoured woven fabrics the bath. The amount of HCL and TRO is taken as per the

IJESC, May 2020 25592 http:// ijesc.org/ weight of the fabric which is calculated. The bath is prepared containing 1% of HCl and 0.5% of TRO with liquor ratio 1:20 in Weft Tensile Strength (in kgf) which 1g of fabric 20 ml of water to be taken. The temperature 40 of 60ºC is maintained and the process is continued for 1hr in the 28,7 30 30 24,3 24,4 bath. Now the sample 1 and 2 can be proceed for further testing 23 23,7 and reading are noted. The weight loss percentage of sample 1 20 Sample 1 and sample 2 in desizing is 11.01% and 9.27%. 10 Sample 2 2.3 SCOURING 0 The scouring process is carried out for the removal of natural Grey Desized Scoured impurities present in the fabric such as waxes, fat, oil, gum and Sample Sample Sample other substances. As per standard method, the scouring process Figure.3.2. Weft tensile strength is made. The sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is used to clean theloosening fragments in fabric. The Sodium carbonate The graph shows that the sample 2 has higher strength than (Na2CO3) and TRO (Wetting agent) is used inside the bath. The sample 1 in grey stage at weft direction due to higher threads per amount of NaOH, Na2CO3and TRO is taken as per the weight of inch. In sample 1, 27.71% and 19.86% of warp and weft tensile the fabric which is calculated. The bath is prepared containing strength is decreased from grey to scouring process and in 4% of NaOH,2% Na2CO3 and 0.5% of TRO with liquor ratio sample 2, 28.05 % and 21% of warp and weft tensile strength is 1:20 in which 1g of fabric 20 ml of water to be taken. The decreased from grey to scouring process. The graph that the temperature of 90ºC is maintained and the process is continued sample 2 has higher strength than sample 1 in weft direction due for 2hr in the bath.The weight loss percentage of sample 1 and to higher thread per inches. sample 2 during scouring is 0.8% and 1.2%. 3.2 Effect of Elongation III. RESULT AND DISCUSSION The elongation of fabric is taken in each stage and the fabric elongation is noted, In warp direction the sample 1 has less in 3.1 Effect on tensile strength grey stage and the elongation increases by 46.85% after scouring The tensile strength is the measure of maximum force the fabric process and in weft direction, the elongation increased by can bear or elongates before it breaks.It has been seen that the 27.43% and the performance of sample 2 has higher elongation strength of two different samples in grey stage is higher than 50% in warp and 85.19% in weft direction after scouring desizing and scouring. This may be due to the size paste and process. This graph shows sample 1 has higher elongation in other substance present in the fabric before processing. The test both warp and weft direction. is conducted on both warp and weft direction of the sample in each stage of process. Table.2. Elongation values of different samples. Sample 1 Sample 2 Table.1. Tensile Strength values of different samples. Warp Weft Warp Weft \ Parameter Elongati Elongati Elongati Elongati Sample 1 Sample 2 on (%) on (%) on (%) on (%) Warp Weft Warp Weft Parameter Tensile Tensile Tensile Tensile Grey 14.3 17.5 13.8 10.8 strength strength strength strength Sample (Kgf) (Kgf) (Kgf) (Kgf) Grey Sample 33.2 28.4 35.3 30 Desized 19.2 21 19.4 14 sample Desized sample 25.6 24.5 26.8 24.4 Scoured 21 22.3 20.7 20 Scoured 24.1 23 25.4 23.7 sample sample

Warp Elongation ( % ) Warp Tensile Strength ( in kgf) 25 21 20,7 40 33,2 35,3 19,2 19,4 20 25,8 26,8 24 25,4 14,3 13,8 30 15 20 Sample 1 10 Sample 1 10 5 Sample 2 Sample 2 0 0 Grey Desized Scoured Grey Desized Scoured Sample Sample Sample Sample Sample Sample

Figure.3.1. Warp tensile strength Figure.3.3. Warp Elongation

IJESC, May 2020 25593 http:// ijesc.org/ IV. CONCLUSION Weft Elongation ( % ) 22,3 In this research we have analyzed the tensile strength and 25 21 20 20 17,5 elongation of two woven fabric. The two samples are taken in 14 grey stage of same weave structure (plain) and same warp and 15 10,8 weft yarn counts by varying the fabric construction such as EPI, 10 Sample 1 PPI & TC. They are used for further processed such as desizing 5 Sample 2 and scouring. The Tensile strength and Elongation has been 0 tested on each stage. The samples in grey stage which we have Grey Desized Scoured taken for this analysis has higher tensile strength while Sample Sample Sample comparing to desizing and scouring. At the mean time tensile

Figure.3.4. Weft Elongation strength of the fabric is decreased and elongation of the fabric is increased from grey stage to desizing and scouring. After 3.3 Effect of crimp processing it is observed that the percentage difference of tensile The warp and weft yarns are interlaced in fabric they follow a strength decreases in sample 1, warp way is22.29%and weft way wavy path. This waviness of yarn is called as crimp. The fibers is 15.33% and in sample 2, warp way is 24.08 and weft way take from the fabric of good quality have high crimp level and 28.05 and elongation increases in sample 1 and 2in warp way is the fiber crimp plays an important role in yarn compressibility, 34.27% and 40.58%, in weft way is 20% and 29.63% from grey extensibility and improves fabric quality.[22 to desizing process. Since the size paste is applied in warp yarns, the unsized weft yarn has an impact while desizing. At the stage Table.3. Crimp values of different samples of desizing it is noted that huge difference in strength in both Sample 1 Sample 2 warp and weft way respectively. The crimp value is also analyzed for both the samples. The crimp value for sample 1 in Warp Weft Warp Weft warp and weft way is 0.95% and 1.8%. For sample 2, 0.95% and Parameter Crimp Crimp Crimp Crimp 1.77%.increases in both warp and weft way are observed after (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) processing.The crimp % is higher in weft direction than in warp Grey 10.5 11 10.5 11.3 direction, higher the crimp results in higher elongation. The Sample effect of geometrical construction of the fabric may occur while

processing and it can be balanced through finishing process. Desized Finally,it was found that the tensile strength of the samples is sample 10.3 11.2 10.4 11.1 higher in grey stage than in desizing and scouring and the Scoured elongation of the fabric is increased in further processing stages. sample 10.4 11 10.4 10.8 V. REFERENCE

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