NSA Special Qualities

Extract from: Scottish Natural Heritage (2010). The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas . SNH Commissioned Report No.374. The Special Qualities of the North Arran National Scenic Area • A mountain presence that dominates the Firth of Clyde • The contrast between the wild highland interior and the populated coastal strip • The historical landscape in miniature • A dramatic, compact mountain area • A distinctive coastline with a rich variety of forms • One of the most important geological areas in Britain • An exceptional area for outdoor recreation • The experience of highland and island wildlife at close hand Special Quality Further information • A mountain presence that dominates the Firth of Clyde Soaring above the sea, the Arran Arran has been described as ‘the sleeping giant’, its head mountains with their distinctive profile and body comprising the mountains and moors of the island. hold the eye and dominate the Firth of Clyde and its surrounds. Sometimes they The peaks of the NSA can be seen from along the North are clear and distinct, reflected in a Ayrshire coast and from many places inland. It likewise mirror-calm sea, at other times they are dominates the views from the east coast of the Kintyre capped in cloud or wreathed in mist. peninsula, and there are further imposing views from Bute. Gemmell (1998) states that, because the presence of the island is so dominating, the Firth of Clyde cannot be imagined without the presence of Arran and its mountains. • The contrast between the wild highland interior and the populated coastal strip The contrast between the upland and The highland interior of North Arran is comparable with lowland landscapes is striking. The many mountainous areas to the north, showing a landscape shaped by glaciation. It consists mainly of open heather interior is rocky, wild, unpopulated and moorland and peat bog, with bare rock a dominant feature mountainous, with a surrounding foil of of the higher ground. It is an SNH Wild Land Search Area. moorland and coniferous forestry. The coastal strip is a narrow ribbon of fields, A very different, lowland landscape is found on the coast, scrub, hedgerows, dykes and settlement, with its pastoral fields, enclosed by hedgerows and drystone dykes, and small areas of woodland and scrub. an intimate, human landscape, with well- Many of the fields occur on the flat tops of raised beaches. kept, whitewashed cottages and gardens looking out over the sea. The interior appears harsh and barren whilst the inhabited coastal strip comes across as lush and welcoming. • A historical landscape in miniature It is the ‘Scottish historical landscape in The Arran historical landscape is best described by miniature.’ Different periods of historic McLellan (1995): land use appear as different layers in the landscape (a palimpsest) and can often ‘Everywhere in the upper glens are the ruins of old black- be seen in one view. houses and turf dykes. In the straths or on the shores are the little oblong sites of ancient chapels. On the hilltops are Features range from evocative stone faint traces of fortifications and on the moors standing circles and chambered cairns, through stones, stone circles and chambered cairns. All this on the same island as stone built Victorian hotels and villas, brick ruined houses and field systems as in and roughcast boarding houses built in the 1930s, and Glen Sannox, to the designed landscape more recent bungalows of precast concrete and coloured of Brodick Castle. tiles, all of which dominate the main villages.’ Added to this are the gardens and designed landscapes of Brodick Castle, with smaller designed landscapes at Dougarie and Mid Sannox. Many of the field dykes show considerable variation depending on the rock type and the stone available. Boguillie, where the coast roads goes inland, presents a good example of this palimpsest: an ancient hill fort on the skyline, above a parallel series of head dykes; the cleared village on terraces below the fort in ruins beside its runrig; the improvement farmstead and field pattern further down the glen above the Mid Sannox designed landscape; modern, commercial forestry on the high ground. • A dramatic, compact mountain area Pointed peaks, sharp ridges, high Goatfell (874m) - 'Mountain of Wind' (from the Gaelic gaoth ) corries, boulder fields and grey granitic or 'Goat Mountain' (from the Norse geita ). slabs comprise the high mountains which Glaciation has been responsible for shaping this granitic rise from sea level to the heights of landscape. The original large igneous intrusion has been Goatfell. Contained within a small, denuded to form the distinctive conical and pyramidal compact island, these mountains are peaks, joined by narrow ridges and saddles between steep- dramatic and spectacular, bringing a sided corries. The peaks on the east side of North Arran tend to be more pointed and angular while those on the Highland feel deep into southern west side more rounded. Erratics are common and include Scotland. the Cat Stone and the Rocking Stone. The steep glens, with their roaring burns, Most visitors to Arran take the ferry to Brodick, and Goatfell penetrate into the heart of the mountains rising above Brodick Bay provides a key first experience of and are classic, glacially-carved U- the island. shaped valleys. • A distinctive coastline with a rich variety of forms Geology, glacial and coastal processes Coastal schists and sandstones create blue/grey and have created a coastline of constant burgundy colouration respectively; further colouration is added with the lichens and seaweeds growing on the rocks. change in terms of shape, form, texture and colour – cliffs, rocky shores, shingle Postglacial, isostatic uplift has led to the distinctive raised and sandy beaches. beaches, best seen on the west coast. Ancient beaches raised above the surrounding sea abound, with relic cliffs, stacks and caves on their inland edge. In many places, the old cliffs have become colonised by scrub of ivy and birch. 2 Roads often follow the raised beach above the modern shore, enabling both the detail of the coastline and distant views over the sea to be enjoyed. • One of the most important geological areas in Britain North Arran exhibits an impressive Geological rocks and features include Precambrian schists; variety of rocks from different geological sedimentary rocks including limestones, Old and New Red Sandstones; the Highland Boundary Fault running through periods, and the area has long been the middle of the island; a tertiary igneous granite intrusion studied by geologists; from Hutton’s making up the bulk of the mountains; dolerite dykes; and discovery of the geological more recent Cretaceous chalk deposits. ‘unconformity’, to the groups of students ever-present on the island today. Its importance is further seen in the past economic geology of the area: barytes mining in Glen Sannox, lime kilns on the Northeast coast, red sandstone quarried near Corrie, and coal mining near the Cock of Arran. • An exceptional area for outdoor recreation Reflecting its accessibility and its The dramatic North Arran mountains, in particular Goatfell, dramatic scenery, the island has long are a magnet for walkers. The National Trust for Scotland (2000) states with respect to the Goatfell area, ‘the been popular with visitors. Over the landform with its jagged, granitic summits and ridges years it has attracted painters, poets and provides a dramatic and awe inspiring setting for the writers as well as the day-tripper and walking experience. ’ walker. Recreation also includes golf and cricket; visits to The ascent of Goatfell from Brodick is a Lochranza Castle or to the National Trust for Scotland’s designed landscape and gardens of Brodick Castle; boating classic hill walk, providing spectacular or playing on the sandy beach of Brodick Bay; or just panoramic views of the Firth of Clyde, enjoying views from many viewpoints. while a visit to Brodick Castle and its beautiful gardens provides a less The landscape is an accessible holiday or daytrip strenuous alternative. destination for large centres of population – particularly Glasgow and southwestern Scotland. North Arran provides an ‘island adventure’ for people throughout southern Scotland. • The experience of highland and island wildlife at close hand The presence of wildlife normally Most of the interior of the NSA is designated SSSI for its associated with the Highlands or distant birds, plants and geology, and the eastern part is also designated as a Special Protection Area for its hen harriers. coasts adds greatly to the enjoyment of this landscape. Arran whitebeams are tree species unique to Arran: Sorbus pseudofennica and Sorbus arranensis , and the discovery in Eagles can be seen soaring over the July 2007 of Sorbus pseudomeinichii another new species mountains, and hen harriers and herds of (Catacol whitebeam). 3 red deer on the moors. On the coast, the sound of gulls contrasts with the evocative call of the curlew, and seals can be seen basking on the rocks. Out at sea gannets can be seen plunging into the water and basking sharks can sometimes be glimpsed. Unique species of whitebeam can be found on certain crags in the upland glens. Selected Bibliography Gemmell, A. M. D. 1998. Discovering Arran . John Donald. Land Use Consultants 1998. Ayrshire Landscape Character Assessment. Scottish Natural Heritage Review, No.111 . McLellan, R. 1976. The Isle of Arran . Revised by Norman Newton, Pevensey Press (1995). National Trust for Scotland 2000. Goatfell Management Plan . 4 .

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