BRILLIANT ARRAY OF TOILETS. HOW IT ..~ 'j '. APPEARED TO "CHOLLY." Tulle a Danseuse's Sleeves, Resembling First OPERA'S Fluffy Petticoats, a Striking Night of Cp:ra Offers an OPENING, ot with a Novelty. Study Society InterestingBig S, as Seen on Farade. Every other woman wore tulle at thi opera last night. Not tulle gowus, to bt ; 'I t ' > All society Is divided into three parts. SOCIETY'S PARADE. LS^ * sure, for these have long been relegateil tc i \ the centre, the circumference and the oblivion, but tulle sleeves, a sort of ballet fringe. At least it is so skirt arrangement 011 their shoulders | at the opera. There The was Metropolitan out like the a time when the exact position of th3 sticking fluffy petticoats of a premiere danseuse. centre was absolutely certain, and the the length of the radius was definitely Sitl, by "First-Crowded Mrs. Prescott Lawrence had very mucl j But that was when the fine world knelt at inflated ones on her maize satin gown the feet of Mrs. Astor and th* made with one accepted Nighters." of those new, stretched measurements of Ward McAllister. on which takes the bodices, drapery place Since then the times have and of of the fulness in changed darts, disposing witch we have changed with them. To-day the ing folds, caught up w 1th jewels. In hei Melba and the Two De centre has shifted and there is a case it was a large diamond brooch. A suspicion that it wobbles aboutwellgrounded lliirh Princess of Wales eollnr of nonria nmni in the to such a degree that nobody will dare to Reszkes, "Faust," around her throat, and a pair of tulle say just where it is. In this respect it Is Musical Attraction, Psyche wings were poised in her hair, like the North Pole; we can get In its fastened there by a diamond pin. neighborhood, but we can't touch it. The In Mrs. Levi P. Morton's box were two ol ^_ circumference, however, is just about as her with These Artists in Fine Voice, but daughters, provided these airy Inelastic as formerly, and the fringe is not - 4 arm clothes, and double mercury of silver a whit less abundant or tentative. the Audience, Just as Last gauze on top of their high coiffures. Miss In the hun£ for the centre in the Edith and Mis Lena Morton were dressed Opera House last night, someMetropolitan Year, Mild in Applause. in shell pink satin, with pink tulle sleeves, of the more old-fashioned swells still and had huge bunches of violets pinned on their lorgnettes on the Astor box,focussed Brillant of Costumes in the their bodices. Mrs. Morton was very where the beautiful young wife of John Array Boxes, gowned In cardinal satin, set offeffectivelyby a Jacob sat and smiled at the homage paid but Some Well-Known Faces point lace garniture on the waist, and her, while her mother-in-law and husband diamond ornaments. Instead ofnumerousa nodded approvingly. Others, with a thirst Missing. necklace, she wore a black velvet band for new sensations and a longing tor new around her throat. conditions, looked long and earnestly at NO VANDERBILT THERE, OF COURSE Mrs. Hermann Oelrichs, in pale blue eu~nrsiiu^ r* TS'V,K,-.*- satin, was one of the handsomest women were no signs of a coronation there. Mills in the Opera House. Her sleeves were of In the Ogden Box. But the Ogden MiUses, the Whitneys and tulle, of course, but made in round puffs And still others fixed their gaze upon the Numberless Other Candidates, for instead of standing out iike almost Ogden Mills box. and there they found at in the World else. Two bows stood guardeverybody's least one woman who has no doubt as to Supremacy where the throne of the social world is, or of Fashion. thorn, nnrl spompd to ho n onntlnno-befnro tion of the drapery which answered the who sits upon It and wields the sceptre of The Cr.stj double purpose of a bertha and a the queen. But around Marguerite Mme. Melba for jewels. A very wonderfulbackgroundblue the wabbling social centre Marthe Mile. Bauermeister feather arrangement loomed up on her there are many proud and rebellious spirits; SiebelMme. Mautelli and if one is she can be Mephistophele M. Ebass the matrons Opera House was occupied, and every all of her not taken with lace crowded. On the corsage up and the widows split their gloves. It's available vantage point and diamonds. I an run odd how maidens to tenors men and women stood ten SCENE IN A BOX AT THE IAETROPO L1TAN OPERA thing main floor deep, Miss Helen Brice sat In shadow of the MOUSE LAST EVENING. and women of matrimonial behind the last row of experience tightly jammed box most of the evening, looking like a prefer bassos. chairs. cameo cut all in white against its deep And when you had passed the Saered Gateman, you heaved a sigh of mellow Close by the Astor box sat Mr. and Mrs. The boxes were filled with the swell folks At the Alan Dale. red velvet hangings. Miss Kate Brice was Metropolitan..By relief, and turned just one contemptuous, pitying glance at the ones R. T. both with hair of snowy New the orchestra assembly was struggling Wilson, of York; in yellow satin, and had a bunch of scarlet outside. You drank in heavily perfumed air (which was very bad for whiteness and both attention made of the genteel element sesame!" crierl Maurice Grau at the your paying rapt up principally flowers on her left shoulder. "Open, Impresario Metropolitan Opera lungs), and as you snatched a pink pro gramme from the pink mound, you to the opera. In all the dazzling, and the balconies were thronged with as House last and behold it was even and so. The In the Frenchiest of gowns, usual, night, unequivocally lovely, began to feel that you were "in it" once again. People are not in a hurry to money-marked horseshoe of tradespeople and poor musicians. feathers lnrff« nnrt c/.arlot- mnmont li.il «.!ro^ of Inrf' TI,o T..l scintillating, clerks, combining lace, satin, jewels, and get zo meir seats at the Metropolitan, because anticipation is always boxes there were no truer devotees came to hear the some came ian be said to "touch the of this suave and parterre Borne opera, fur. Mrs. Whitney Warren sat in Mrs. opera may spot" sympathetic so much more titillant than realization. One of these days Mr. Grau to music than this handsome old couple. see the rich and some came had come. The alarum had been set for November and off it to people Goelet's box, No. 24, wearing whiteRobert 16, community will know this, and wisely decide that on the opening night of the The familiar face of their youngest It was the first night. These various' went, with a ting-a-ling-a-ling, followed by a pompous v'lan, and a becausesatin, with shoulder straps of sable. Below bang! Italian opera season there shall be no opera. It is quite superfluous, only however, was She is now made a audience, All Forty-second street because such an for missing. daughter, elements up responsive them some exquisite lace was tucked away pulsated, opportunity pulsation nobody dares to admit it. The ideal Italian opera "first would be an Mrs. Cornelius and is and occurs but once a year. You could sniff at the elevated railroad night" Vanderbilt, Jr., keenly appreciative thoroughly in the drapery on the waist, in which opera stations, upon which, when all were seated, Mr. Grau could come to the occasionabroad. The box didn't look where gamins roared In ears. You looked in quite right enthusiastic.glistened. A green Paradise aigrettediamonds unkempt "booksothopera" your and explain things to the plebs. footlightswithout her. were the De contempt at such unhallowed as the Upon the stage Reszkes, was arrayed in her hair. playhouses adjacent Empire,unmitigated "There," he could exclaim. "In box No. 7, Is Mrs. C. W. Astor. She will be So Vnnderbilts Tliere. and one or two other recipients of Mrs. Iteid's Casino and Broadway, where not a diamond would be displayed, or a bosom. Melba Wbitelaw gown was also of with us, wearing all her diamonds, on odd nights and even matinees. Mr. J. J. No Vanderbilt, nor any connection of tfcs salaries, who sang divinely, and the white and had a naked yet unashamed.glitter in the luminous electricity. In fact, you felt fabulous satin, garniture which, Astor.look at him, ladies and gentlemen.has chosen even nights and odd family, was there, of course. Cornelius bulk of the same minor singers who seen from across that nothing was worth while but the Metropolitan. And If you didn'tdistinctly the house, looked as if (Here Mr. Grau eauld crack a topical joke or two.) "In Box 20 youmatinees."may Vanderbilt's box was some in "Faust" on the same stage last think that, you didn't deserve to be alive in this glorious, free metropolis. Poor occupied by appearedit might be two sets of outstretched notice D. O. Mills, and in box 30, W. C. Whitney. Calvin S. Brice I have secured friends. done in old Mapleson, struggling with refractory artists down in that nasty, low year. wings, gray embroideryseagullor and bottled up in box 18, and in box 11 I am proud to say that I can show you A mrncf an^ Porrr Polmnnf nrhn rofncorl The stars were bombarded with known as Fourteenth street, where people actually sell neighborhood fairly passementerie spread across it. The cachet things during x-erry xiejmonr. rause tor a moment, I beseech you, and glance at Levi P. Morton flowers. ballet danced The the day, would have realized the utter futility of musical endeavor In New to attend the Horse Show for reasons of The badly. of the costume has a big row of black in box 1G, and then in box 23 feast yourself upon the vision of Elbridge T. wild with over the final York If he could have had a peep at the inspiringly animated scene enacted Gerry." their own, were both there in their boxes went delight audienceon her left shoulder. velvet This, it seems to me, would be scarcely less humiliating than the programme's mt-'ii m tuts orcucaua vvciil uui w and apparently without resentment to any iriu. xne Mrs. Henry Clews wore that low, diamond of the large dove-colored opera edifice. outside diagram, which was again in evidence last night.a stigma upon the the acts as of community. living being. Perry was on the south side drink between yore. coronet of hers, which goes so well with her Thousands of carriages were safely delivered of bevies of enormously Everybody was numbered and parcelled off, in silent obedience to And there a Idea how sycophantic ana nearly opposite. you have clear of style of halrdressing. Her gown was Indies, with solemn, impressive and dead-in-earnest faces. Coachmendecorated curiosity. This outrageous feature never excites any harsh comment. The August "Faust," that sublime soul's and footmen and menials salaamed, Wnsr- If Mr. 2nd Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont tragedy, of white satin, its only touch of colorsimple, parleyed, and horses neleheil bellowed, and parcelled ones don't object in the least. They wear their labels proudly,numbered wrought by the great Goethe and set to a nerlaniy. And in the outer looked for were at the coi;A? _?«« «ee being Jjurich nging fjojn lobby everybody aequati!ta!1068, !r ord:-r _ fdr do not tlie rickets Say: "You are rich and and do not to JSKWV.J weli-bfed, you belong have no box and were not am' tub jifcuTt-siirriag nfffnIony~t>y^TF)c"~"greaf" Gou-~ the left shoulder, which seems to be the .to he convivial and "in the swim." You were glad to recognize anybody.even the vulgar crowd." tb*They the with holders of orchestra chairs furnished by nod, was heard for the first time this favorite location for trimming this season. uncomfortable folks whom you "crossed" last year, and whom you The auditorium wfcs soon crowded and everybody looked clean and nice for New York's fashionable decided to cut dead when reached New York. The the management. Oliver is a subscriber to by opera seaBon Miss Elsie Clews was dressed in dark you Metropolitan Opera the occasion. There were a few dowdies in the orchestra seats, but the presence as I've often said, is but a and if the Club, but hfe was not in the public.green velvet, with white tulle frills on her House, nothing big club, you've one ounce of a score of dowdies is to be encouraged, rather than A Opera Versus of, you don't want to go it alone. If can't frou-frou in and discouraged. perpetual omnibus box, where some of the fringe are Anticipation Realization. arms and a set of glistening Mercury wings self-respect you out smile, you know, wearies. Mr. Grau, determined to be timely, had There Is attractive in the of the boxes, and peacock about among the temporarily elect, can at least publicly wont to i lost. something on her hair. you asked ladies to come uuhatted, which, at the gorgeous seemed of the first night of the opera pretend that you are dreadfully in request, that people wont let you alone, and Metropolitan, One of the handsomest women in the anticipationOne of the handsomest women was Mrs. rather a cheap thing to do. It was like "Babies in arms not season that is never realized when the that your circle of friends is really disgustingly swollen. When you are in saying admitted," opera house was Mrs. Willie Burden, and W. Bayard Cutting, who wore a custard or "Gentlemen are kindly not to eat the night finally arrives. It is this alluring Rome you must do as the Romans do, and when you are at the Metropolitan requested peanuts during performance." tlfbre was many a chappie that would have W colored satin, all fussed up with lace. At the aud if ladies wear Eiffel promise that attracts the people, who you might just as well be a' humbug with the rest of them. It Is very easy Metropolitan everything's right, Tower hats, it crowned her queen if he had had the pow- Shoulder knots to match had supports of when know how. is because Eiffel Tower hats are the thing. It is impossible to be kif-kif at the J would not attend. And it is onlyotherwisein tulle In the of you er. The Iselins were therey^of course, as shape wing-like frills, to hold Metropolitan. the the the presence of these people that the first them up. were the Roosevelts, Gerrys, night differs from other The opera was "Faust." Don't blame me fo"r saying it. I am paid to give Havens, the Bowdolns, the Stillmans, the any night. Benvenuto, the new shade of As a matter turquoise, you useful information, and I've got to do it. The opera, I was the the of fact the "first night" of was introduced on Mrs. Edmund L. repeat, "Faust," Hitchcocks, Pierpont Morgans, last was Baylies's a work by Gounod, founded upon th e Goethe and warranted not to Rhluelander the night extremely prosaic. This, white satin gown, its legend, Stewarts, Bayard Cuttings, mind you, does not refer to the making high, pleated distract anybody's attention. A new opera 011 an opening night would be the Brices, the Mortons, the Blisses, and girdle and bertha trimmings. She wore fatal. "Faust" itself. Alan Dale will tell performanceyou all white aigrettes in her hair. everybody knows by heart, and nobody feels compelledpositivelythe Juillards. In this list Is hidden the about that. But to any man who has ever n\ ^L^l* to listen to it. The fact that it has been done to death at the that centre of society. Let him And it who can. Mrs. William F. Burden's gown was of Metropolitan, witnessed a first in a it was the "great card" a few seasons with an "ideal means from the Centre. night European opera pinkish mauve satin, and had puffed ago cast" nothing at Away house, and who has become accustomed all. New operas would distract attention from new dresses, and that would not Very much further away and close to the sleeves to match. The bodice chiffonwas to New York's the be tolerated. Mr. Grau, who is a rim of the circumference, but on which opera audience, overlaid with white lace, on which knots Machiavelli, doesn't worry himself about new and the of operas. And very few new operas are produced nowadays. Only commoners side of It I shall not were the de spirit last night's audienceappearanceof absinthe green satin She also believe that tne say. would have been appeared. lige Mapleson, public clamors for operatic novelty. the C. Jefferson utterly uninteresting. had white aigrettes on her coiffure. "Faust" sung as it was sung last night is a sensual The moment Barrys, George Boldts, "Faust" is the musical of Mancinelli had delight. the story the sad- The Baroness de Sellliere was with Mrs. bignor settled down to business, that lovely, familiar overture Levy, the Westervelts, the Dltsons, uest aua most that ever set all hearts whom It tragic struggle Burden, wearing a most beautiful gown of music-loving throbbing. The occupants of the boxes had not Dicksons and lots of other people being passed in this world.human but the orchestra seats were well tilled, the blsfck rim of humanityarrived.is not worth while to mention when time through palest blue satin, the bodice of which was known as the room And be it ever so "standing only" patrons, clung tightly to the brazen railing, and Is restricted. badly produced upon veiled with a pearl beaded net, caught up and upstairs were hundreds of people who could have told you in a moment if Is precious space the stage its plot and its movement are In charming lines by blue knots. She Melba had sung falsely or Jean de Iieszke had left "the hey." This much, however, may be said without The house made a such as to absorb the attention of every wore a number of diamond ornaments charming appearance. It always does. There is no more fear of contradiction.there was never a Yet satisfactory spectacle on earth. As 1 sat and listened to that overture, I thinking spectator. had the De Reszkes on it. everything but the sensuous pleasure of the moment, the refreshing tingleforgot more brilliant audience in the Metropolitan and Melba responded to the applause that Mrs .Elbridge T. and her of luxurious surroundings. No human being can be indifferent to the Opera House. And this is equally true, eGrry two enervation that comes jubilant greeted the song et radieux" from the subtle delight of the senses. "Faust" sung in whether we look at it from the "Anges pures daughters were in their box, the mother a barn would afford but cold delectation. All the accesories of the Metronoiitnn standpoint by singing "Home, Sweet Home" or "The wearing white satin, rich with lace appeal to tlae Ilesh.the warm, amorous the of society, of wealth, of apparel, of point women, the atmosphere, lasciviously clad Last Rose of Summer" last night's audience and diamonds. Miss Mabel was sense-stirring lights, the vivacious hum of expectant beauty or of mere numbers. If Gerry everything is a conducement to satisfaction. humanity. physical would probably have gone crazy with joy. dressed In blue satin fleshly It is worth the price of another human had been sky and Miss admission several times over, but not as an intellectual joy, as the humbugs being squeezed A reflection that fi rather dampening: in rose pink, with the inevitableAngelicatulle , assert. No.a hundred times no. Into the auditorium of the Opera House It a The highest gallery was the most was not fervid audience. When the curtain rose and discovered Faust last night the regulations of the Fire sleeves. with his whiskers and not crowded. It was a curiously mixed Mrs. general antiquity a hand applauded M. Jean de would have been in all throng William Astor had her Reszke. Whether this was due to the dreadfully inconsequential appearance violated, Department and difficult to analyze. There were Mrs. John Jacob with of the famous star, or whether recent non-operatic In connection probability. Astor, daughterin-law,her, with this had to happenings people there who could have affordedwellto-donuu, us usuui, iit-i- uox gentleman anything do with the general apathy, I cannot tell. How about the fringe of did you was tne centre or There was very little enthusiasm when society, to pay $5 for orchestra chairs, but who attraction. Mrs. Mephistopheles burst upon the scene asK.' .now, ior goouness saae, don't get a "Jack" never looked with five cents' worth of gunpowder paper as a symbol of an advent. evidently did not think that than she did last jn a uncanny idea pleasure night gownlovelierof Possibly it was all due to the fact that the creme de la creme was coming to wrong about the fringe at the opera. worth the price. Then there were shell pink satin. over which white tnlle the surface of the boxes, and monopolizing all the attention. It is always well woven and eminently individuals who must shimmered on the sleeves, producing the The De Reszkes were in admirable condition. Jean's voice seemed surelyseedylookinghave effect of fleecy, clouds. A and fresher than when younger respectable. Some of it has better blood Stretched a to pink-flecked he was with us last season. Its rich, pure, convincing point pay a dollar for the of diamonds seemed to pierce the daggerlace notes were deliciously appealing, and when you of the dreadful and less money than some of the molecules on the on thought gratification of their musical tastes. draped waist, which a single gentlemen down at the Academy of Music you purred with tremolo-ruinedat near the centre. Some of it has more red rose was fastened. She wore a the of joy Arrived Late, of Course. superb proud possession the still peerless Jean de Reszke. Eduoard de and less of a than tiara of diamonds. Reszke was also on his mettle and at the close of the first money pedigree others of Half the box holders, stanch in their act the exquisite same central blending of the fraternal voices carried you away and made you forget the those molecules. You must to society's Inflexible rule, arrivedadherence cynicism of it all. and the appalling husk that encloses the toothsome kernel. have money, and you must have had it for nearly an hour after the The advent of Melba was as indifferently hailed as though she had never left some time and performance had us. Rut this cool given evidence of that fact begun. While the curtain lovely, nightingale was not in the least perturbed. She sang was up they as she always sings.with a limpidity so amazing that you could feel her calm, by spending it before you can hope 'o talked. Between the acts, when there was perfect notes trickling in a ceaseless stream into your very entity. Melba sings vault the circumference. But there is excellent opportunity to talk, with less effort than any other prima donna on the stage, and her limitations are in the fringe that is quite they never apparent. Her voice is a dulcet caress, and I thought last night that she withoutnobody silent, in graceful attitudes, andremained was more mechanically marvellous than ever. hope, or ought to be. allowed the $5 crowd in the orchestra to Melba is not cultivating a temperament. If an iceberg could sing, I should Old Fnmillea. gaze upon them. Three or imagine its warbling would be very much like the melody of the Australian four of the donna. It is better so. One have Of the old familiar fixtures Clarence boxes contained two prima perhaps can't everything In this world. only occupants. The The artist with temperament is led into a thousand pitfalls, and Melba, was just as pompous as ever. If CollinsMr. empty chairs in these boxes were the mistress of herself, knows the precise value of every note, and carefullyabsolutelyCollins keeps on swelling, Mr. Grau will it. She is not pretty-ing. Her is a cynosure of hundreds of weary, envious weighs Marguerite very mature and shapeless liave to enlarge the corridors of the in person, and if you could possibly disregard the flexible roulades of the jewel song, Opera eyes the "standing room" throng. All you would say to this lady, as you saw her her House. of frivolling with jewel case, "You which is as it was last year and as it are old enough to know better, my dear." Fortunately for Melba you cannot There was also General Sickles, who mada will be next disregard her voice. The icy perfection of "De roi de Thule".freezing and year. your admiration. flawless.rivetshis entree, as usual, in the middle of one .liicicsuug experiment or tne Lassnlle as Valentin was "received" more than the other of the most interesting solos and divided to he deserved his gracefully artists, improve the appearance ofmanagementthe and reception, for h e sang with vigor and warmth. Mnie. the attention of the audience with the house and increase the ll^ Mnntelli was Sealchl's substitute in the role of Siebel. which she sang neatly, comfort of the soloist. but not particularly Impressively. Little Rauermeister came on meekly in the And, of course, Dr. Holbrook audience by requesting the women in the third act, and was greeted for with the will vociferously, Rauermelstor's presence means that Curtis, old familiar odor of the orchestra to remove their hate was not a the opera stay Its allotted thirte en weeks at the Metropolitan. Nothing atomizer can possibly happen as long as Rauer melster is here. She about him, was there, and Tom complete success. Some women removed could sing in an emergency, Faust at a pinch, and Marguerite without Mephistophelesa Howard, best preserved of antique dudes, hr... r,Ir>«Ul. rli i . >-1... turning their hats and some »»Poland; been domiciled In Europe, and that cares and aches, and and Preble Tucker, originatorarchitect;and boldlj ladies might have been a human sorrows, joys, bitterness and pettiness had attacked them all. These promoter of the Opera Club: and Ed little more gracious." song birds are, after all, musical boxes, to be wound and who Well, the opera season has up turned on at a Lauterbach, was going to begun. Those notice. moment's if W. J. was rebe! who attended the first night enjoyed The "accessories" of the Bryan elected; Those who did not themselves. performances were equally stereotyped. There were and Bob Dunlap and Jim Breslin and John attend the first the ugly, old garlic-eating ladies in the chorus, the usual tra-la-la scnoeitie night, but who will attend the second, or tripping ballet aud Urau himself. all of whom the third, or the twentieth, dancers.perhaps a trifle c-omlier than of yore.and the same scenery. A few nre worthy of mention, because it Is to night, will "nosies" were thrown to .Tefin r\o RokvI-o nni-l UoiKo .- - enjoy themselves just, as well. And, as *77""V* tu WWL Ciirrj wni- liUl BUOW their enterprise in putting out their money for ered upon the stage like rain, as enthusiasts will we those who did not attend, and who will The to-day probably declare. that have opera at all; and Baron Le not attend, because they cannot afford to season, however, is now fairly started, and that Is the main point. The in- Ghait and Prince Louis Savoy, whose.but attend, no itial performance has been given. The social ice has been they, doubt, will be highly will smashed and the what's the use? If there was anybody in to learn that the opera season gratifiedwas nights probably be rosy ones for Maurice Grau. The big Metropolitancoming town that was not at the opera I didn't safely and successfully opened. Leaving the Metfopolita n Opefa Mouse Last After "Faust." has emerged from its long, inglorious lethargy, and the onlv opera companv that miss him. Night Seeing New York will patronize has stamped itself once more upon'the community," CHOLLY KNICKERBOCKER