Snowdonia Scrambles Tryfan and Crib Goch
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THE OGWEN VALLEY MOUNTAIN RESCUE ORGANISATION 37Th
THE OGWEN VALLEY MOUNTAIN RESCUE ORGANISATION 37th ANNUAL REPORT FOR THE YEAR 2001 Published by the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation Bryn Poeth, Capel Curig, Betws-y-Coed, Conwy LL24 0EU Edited by Dave and Jo Worrall © OVMRO 2002 Please note that the articles contained in the Annual Report express the views of the individuals and are not necessarily the views of the Team. Argraffwyd gan / Printed by: Gwasg Ffrancon Dol Dafydd, Bethesda, Gwynedd LL57 3LY 1?? 2?? Contents Chairman’s Foreword 5 The History 7 The Operational Area of OVMRO 11 Mountain Weather 13 Incident Report 2001 17 Incident Narrative 19 Equipment Officer’s Report 25 Treasurer’s Report 27 Casualty Care Report 29 Transport Officer’s Report 35 Training Officer’s Report 39 The Call Out 41 Newsletter 42 Mobile Phones and Mountain Rescue 43 Why Produce the ‘Dealing With Traumatic Incidents’ 45 Leaflet Coping with Trauma 49 Just a Team Member! 51 Rope Rescue Training 53 333 The Support Group of the OVMRO 55 Collection Boxes 57 333 Standing Order Authority 58 Web Site Reports 59 Location of Collection Boxes 60 The Best of the Newsletters The Ballad of Idwal Slabs 61 The Local Bus to Sybaru 64 A Nightmare of White Horses 68 In Search of the Parallel Roads in the Company of a 70 Ferrous Stag Cover photograph: Maggie Adam Other photographs by Clive Hughes and Dave Worrall 3?? Chairman’s Foreword Welcome to the Annual report of the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation. This report has been produced to tell you about the team, who we are, what we do and where we do it. -
North Wales Climbs Introduction
1 North Wales Climbs Slate Mark Reeves Jack Geldard Mark Glaister A climbing guidebook to selected routes on the crags of North Wales Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Edited by Stephen Horne and Alan James All uncredited photography by Rockfax Other photography as credited Printed in Europe on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. Betws and Moelwyns Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) All maps by ROCKFAX Gogarth Published by ROCKFAX in November 2013 © ROCKFAX 2013, 2010 rockfax.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, N.C. Limestone stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any Cover photo: Alexandra Schweikart, belayed by Christopher Igel, means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without on Left Wall (E2) - page 111 - on Dinas Cromlech. Photo: Jack prior written permission of the copyright owner. Geldard A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. This page: Simon Lake on Bochlwyd Eliminate (HVS) - page Mid Wales 177 - on Bochlwyd Buttress in Ogwen. Photo: Mark Glaister ISBN 978 1 873341 82 7 North Wales Climbs 3 Ian Wilson and Jack Geldard on the last pitch of Hardd (E2) - page 257 - on Carreg Hyll Drem. Photo: Mark Glaister The Crags Slate................................ 42 Slate Bus Stop Quarry ..................... 44 Dali's Hole.......................... 50 California........................... 52 Australia ........................... 54 Serengeti Area ...................... 60 Vivian Quarry ....................... 68 Rainbow Slab Area ................... 76 Llanberis Pass ....................... 86 Llanberis Pass Craig Ddu .......................... 88 Clogwyn y Grochan .................. 92 Carreg Wastad ..................... 100 Dinas Cromlech .................... 106 Scimitar Ridge.......................114 Dinas Mot ..........................116 Clogwyn y Ddysgl .................. -
Bte Intro to Scrambling Cse Info
Course Information Introduction to Scrambling Meeting Point The course will meet in N Wales on Day 1 at Moel Siabod Café, Capel Curig LL24 0EL. This is on the A5 about 600m SE of the A4086 / A5 junction in Capel Curig. Grid Ref SH 727 578. Course Format The exact course itinerary will be flexible to cope with weather conditions. During the course, you will cover the whole breadth of skills that are required for you to move safely on Grade 1 scrambles including: • How to choose a route appropriate to your skill level and the weather conditions; • How to navigate to, along / up and away from your chosen route; • Safe and efficient movement on the route; • Safety considerations. Possible scrambles include: Crib Coch (Snowdon) Probably the best known scrambling route in Wales – its popularity is justifiable with exciting locations steeped in high mountain atmosphere. Crib Lem (Lech Du Spur) A hidden gem of a route in an unfrequented part of the Carneddau, giving some delightful scrambling with stunning views finishing close to the top of Carnedd Dafydd. Tryfan N Ridge & Bristly ridge (Glyder Fach) The jagged skyline ridge prominent as you drive along the Ogwen valley gives a great mountaineering day out. Classic Grade 1 scrambling with lots of variations if you want to make it harder lead via Cannon rock to the summit. Where with a jump between Adam and Eve (two stone pillars) you can claim the freedom of the mountain. A short descent to Bwlch Tryfan and the option of continuing the classic scramble to the summit of Glyder Fach via Bristly ridge. -
The Welsh 3000S Trip Code: WTT
The Welsh 3000s Trip code: WTT Overview Total 1 day n/a Difficulty: Hiking 1 day Wales, UK All year round “More Adventure were amazing. The hike was very well organised and our guides made the challenge fun. I will definitely be doing more challenges with these guys!” Paul, 2018 Tackle all fifteen peaks in Wales above 3000 feet in under 24 hours - this is the Welsh 3000s, one of the most iconic challenges in the UK. This incredible 42km adventure is an unforgettable journey on two feet through the wild landscape of Snowdonia National Park. The official challenge is completed in under 24 hours, but we think completing it in any time should be on everyone’s bucket list! It is a fully guided and supported event, allowing you to focus on the epic scenery of this unique region of the UK. Highlights ● The breathtaking mountain scenery of Snowdonia National Park ● Embracing the physical challenge of tackling fifteen mountains ● Experiencing the awe-inspiring wilderness and beauty of North Wales ● Sharing the adventure of a lifetime with your other team members ● Completing a unique iconic mountain challenge ● Encountering the wild ponies of the Carneddau, our favourite mountain residents Itinerary Our route begins from the popular Pen y Pas car park at the top of the Llanberis Pass. Here you’ll meet the rest of the group and your leaders. There are toilets available and you’ll also be able to place a bag with extra snacks, clothing and drinks in our support vehicle for our planned refreshment stop. After a safety brief, overview of the day and kit check, we’ll begin by following the Pyg track then embark upon arguably the most technically demanding section of the challenge, the narrow edge of Crib Goch. -
New Entry in Super Mountains
NEWS New Entry in Super Mountains Resurvey of the Welsh mountain Glyder Fawr confirmed its height of 1,000.8m, slightly higher than the 999m on the Ordnance Survey maps. This also is good enough to enter the mountain in the Super Mountains. How the resurvey did take place is unveiled by G. and J. Surveys. There is no dictionary definition of 'a Super Mountain'. Until the publication of Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 (Landranger) maps in the early 1970s we predominantly used imperial measurements for both distance and height; this despite the kilometre-based National Grid. British hills and mountains were measured against key benchmark heights, notably 1000, 2000 and 3000feet. Once the metric system was introduced on Ordnance Survey maps, these benchmark heights became 304.8, 609.6 and 914.4metres, so using metric to "define" mountains, the obvious benchmark height is 1000 metres. There are only four mountains over this height and Wales has them all, calling them Super Mountain. The Welsh Super Mountains are Snowdon (1,085m) followed by the adjacent Crib y Ddysgl (1,065m). Following closely behind and in the north of the Snowdonia National Park are Carnedd Llewelyn (1,064m) and finally Carnedd Dafydd (1,044m). Wales plays host to mountain events, one familiar to tourists on the Snowdon Mountain railway being the Snowdon Race. Another equally famous is the Welsh 1,000m Peaks Race, where competitors visit all the Welsh 1,000m summits within a given time limit. These international events draw competitors from far and wide. Glyder Fawr could exceed 1,000m and being the fifth Super Mountain. -
Yr Wyddfa I Foel Fras Mewn Diwrnod
Yr Wyddfa i Foel Fras mewn diwrnod Challenges can be considered a bit naff, and I’d agree being in the hills isn’t just about proving or conquering. But sometimes the thought of doing something just gets in your head and gnaws away. Shane and I had our first go at the Welsh 3000s last year and after all it is a magnificent line. You simply start at one end and string together all the 3000ft tops until you’ve got to the top of all 14 (or is it 15), following a meandering but satisfying succession of ridges and whaleback plateaus. Everyone knows the Snowdon horseshoe, the round of the Glyders and the Carneddau, each a straight forward day walk so linking them appeals just as a logical thing to do. Our first attempt got us to Ogwyn. That was the point when we both realised that perhaps it wasn’t that easy. Forty kilometers is fair enough, but actually you need to go up and down 4000m and then also add on a couple of 6k walks at the start and end. What Finlay Wild does in 4 hours translates into considerably more of a challenge for most middle aged punters. The frustrating thing was that after the first go at we both knew we had got pretty close. Although in terms of distance Ogwyn is only half way, you realise that once at the top of Pen Y Ole Wen the major difficulties are over. And that’s why it was gnawing away, we were keen to try again. -
Paul Gannon 2Nd Edition
2nd Edition In the first half of the book Paul discusses the mountain formation Paul Gannon is a science and of central Snowdonia. The second half of the book details technology writer. He is author Snowdonia seventeen walks, some easy, some more challenging, which bear Snowdonia of the Rock Trails series and other books including the widely evidence of the story told so far. A HILLWalker’s guide TO THE GEOLOGY & SCENERY praised account of the birth of the Walk #1 Snowdon The origins of the magnificent scenery of Snowdonia explained, and a guide to some electronic computer during the Walk #2 Glyder Fawr & Twll Du great walks which reveal the grand story of the creation of such a landscape. Second World War, Colossus: Bletchley Park’s Greatest Secret. Walk #3 Glyder Fach Continental plates collide; volcanoes burst through the earth’s crust; great flows of ash He also organises walks for hillwalkers interested in finding out Walk #4 Tryfan and molten rock pour into the sea; rock is strained to the point of catastrophic collapse; 2nd Edition more about the geology and scenery of upland areas. Walk #5 Y Carneddau and ancient glaciers scour the land. Left behind are clues to these awesome events, the (www.landscape-walks.co.uk) Walk #6 Elidir Fawr small details will not escape you, all around are signs, underfoot and up close. Press comments about this series: Rock Trails Snowdonia Walk #7 Carnedd y Cribau 1 Paul leads you on a series of seventeen walks on and around Snowdon, including the Snowdon LLYN CWMFFYNNON “… you’ll be surprised at how much you’ve missed over the years.” Start / Finish Walk #8 Northern Glyderau Cwms A FON NANT PERIS A4086 Carneddau, the Glyders and Tryfan, Nant Gwynant, Llanberis Pass and Cadair Idris. -
THE FORTNIGHTLY FAFF the Periodical Journal of the Mercian Mountaineering Club
THE FORTNIGHTLY FAFF The Periodical Journal of the Mercian Mountaineering Club Sept 2014 VIA FERRATA Riding Italy’s ‘Iron Road’ with Harriet Stewart WELSH 3000s The Mercian elite bag every one of Snowdonia’s major peaks TRADFEST Who needs Glasto when Llanberis offers up it’s very own climbing festival MULLARDOCH Matt Kettle completes one of Scotland’s longest day hikes CENTURION 100 Shots of Beer in 100 minutes www.mercianmc.org.uk Words from the chairman A word from the editor Greengs good people! I hope this latest issue of The Faff finds you in fine fePle. You’ll find a good variety of arGcles in this issue ranging from Italian via ferrata to some prePy epic mountain slogs. The past few months saw several members complete the Welsh 3000s; I hope you enjoy Tom’s report on that. Not to be sasfied with a mere “Welsh Walk”, Ma KePle then went one further and completed the Mullardoch Round in Scotland. You can read his story and marvel at the sheer scale of the accomplishment. Well done Ma, I may have taken the mickey a liPle with your arGcle but I take my hat off to you. Moving on, I’m parGcularly pleased that in this issue we have our first report and photos from a social meet. These are a cornerstone of the club and one of things that bonds us all together so nicely is that we all go out and have fun together indoors as well as outdoors. Well done to Tom Morris for being the driving force behind our social meets calendar. -
Wirral Ramblers
WIRRAL RAMBLERS SUNDAY 16th APRIL 2006 TRYFAN (OGWEN) A WALK We start on the A5 near Gwern Gof Isaf and climb the ridge of Braich y Ddeugwm to Llyn Caseg- Fraith. Joining the Miners Track we cross to Bwlch Tryfan and climb to the summit of Tryfan. After a descent to Llyn Bochlwyd we climb the Y Gribin ridge (the final section may require some easy scrambling) and cross to the summit of Glyder Fawr. After descending to Llyn y Cŵn, we climb to the summit of Y Garn and continue to Foel Goch. The route to Llyn Ogwen descends Y Llymllwyd and continues via Cwm Idwal. DISTANCE: 17km (10½ miles) 19½ POINTS ASCENT 1370m (4500ft) B PLUS WALK Starting from Idwal Cottage a short road walk takes us to Gwern Gof Uchaf. We then ascend to reach the Heather Terrace path. Continuing on this rocky path we reach the south col and then climb north to reach the summit of Tryfan (3010’). We retrace our path back to the south col and continue descending to Bwlch Tryfan, then on to Llyn Bochlwyd, (Australia Lake). We descend to Llyd Idwal and then walk around the lake back to Idwal Cottage. (Scrambling is involved so 2 points added). DISTANCE: 11.3km (7 miles) 14 POINTS ASCENT 760m (2500ft) B MINUS WALK Starting at Ogwen Cottage we take the higher path around Llyn Idwal and then head in a northerly direction until we meet the Llyn Bochlwyd path. We ascend this path to Bwlch Tryfan where we turn north again to descend Cwm Tryfan to the A5 at Glan Dena. -
Capel Curig Club
CAPEL CURIG CLUB The Club's first meet was on March 12th, 1967, a day-trip to Moel Siabod, passing very near to the derelict chapel which was to play such an important role in the Club's future. The proximity of North Wales to Merseyside in general and the Wirral in particular made it the obvious home base. The nearest similar area, the Lakes, is just that bit further away. So Wales it was, very much in the spirit of the name Gwydyr. Although Llanrwst was an excellent base for the Club for three and a half years, the move to Capel Curig had an inevitable logic about it. The previous chapter dealt with the acquisition and development of Tan-y-Garth but this chapter is devoted to events both on and off the hill. Prior to the acquisition of Tan-y-Garth there had been heated arguments about whether we were a mountaineering club or a "chapel renovation society". The argument in favour was won and, as time passed, it became clear that it was possible to be both. In spite of the requirements of Chapel renovation the new hut's prime position meant that a large amount of climbing and walking took place. One of the early climbs, 1973 I think, took place at the dead of night when a gang of drunks including, I fear, your humble author, drove down to Nant Gwynant with an ample supply of bottled beer and ascended Lockwood's Chimney. Perilous though the ascent was, it was nothing compared to the descent, or even the drive to the foot of the cliff. -
Snowdonia 10 Peak Challenge Trip C Ode: SPC
Snowdonia 10 Peak Challenge Trip code: SPC Overview Total 1 day n/a Difficulty: Hiking 1 day Wales, UK All year round “More Adventure were amazing. The hike was very well organised and our guides made the challenge fun. I will definitely be doing more challenges with these guys!” Paul, 2018 This magnificent mountain challenge tackles ten iconic peaks of Snowdonia Naonal Park - all in one day! This is an incredible journey through the jaw-dropping landscape of North Wales, passing through two main ranges - the Glyders and the Carneddau. It is a fully guided and supported event allowing you to savour the stupendous views, fresh air, and the physical challenge this fantasc adventure delivers. Highlights ● The breathtaking mountain scenery of Snowdonia Naonal Park ● Embracing the physical challenge of climbing not one, but ten mountains in one day ● Experiencing the awe-inspiring wilderness and beauty of North Wales ● Sharing the adventure of a lifeme with your other team members ● Reaching the support vehicle having completed the Snowdonia 10 Peak Challenge ● Encountering the wild ponies of the Carneddau, our favourite mountain residents Itinerary We meet at Ogwen Coage in the beauful Ogwen Valley. Here you’ll meet the rest of the group and your leaders. There is parking and toilets available at Ogwen Coage, you’ll also be able to place a bag with extra snacks, clothing and drinks in our support vehicle for our planned refreshment stop. Aer a safety brief, overview of the day and kit check, you’ll embark upon your first peak, Y Garn (The Horn, 947m) in the Glyders range of Snowdonia. -
North Wales Classics
North Wales Classics Tremadog Jack Geldard A climbing guidebook to selected routes on the mountain crags of North Wales Silyn Cwm Additional text by Alan James, Chris Craggs and Stephen Horne Cloggy Printed by John Browns, Nottingham Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) All maps by ROCKFAX. Published by ROCKFAX April 2010 Llanberis © UKClimbing Limited 2010 www.rockfax.com www.ukclimbing.com Lliwedd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright Ogwen owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library All Rockfax books are printed in the UK. We only use paper made from wood fibre from sustainable forests and produced according to ISO 14001 environmental management standard. Carneddau ISBN 978-1-873341-17-9 Cover: Sarah Burmester on One Step in the Clouds (VS) - page 37 - at Tremadog. Betws y Coed Photo: Jack Geldard This Page: Martin Chester on Cemetery Gates (E1) - page 93 - on Dinas Cromlech. Photo: Mark Reeves Winter Welsh 1 North Wales Classics Tremadog North Wales has one of the most concentrated selections of adven- turous climbing in the whole of Europe. Almost every valley is flanked by walls of superb quality and well-featured rock giving a lifetime's worth of routes at all grades and all within an hour radius. Cwm Silyn Cwm From the mountain-magnificence of Cloggy, to the sun-kissed single pitch routes on the Upper Tier of Tremadog, North Wales can cater for almost every climber's need.