An Archaeological Survey for the Ghuilbinn Hydro Scheme, Corrour Estate, , ,

For Hydroplan UK

April 2014

Jennifer G. Robertson MA PhD FSA Scot. MIFA

Garden Cottage, Ardtornish Estate, , By Oban, Argyll, PA34 5UZ. Tel. 01967 421234. E-Mail [email protected]

Ghuilbinn Hydro Scheme

1. Summary Three archaeological sites were recorded in an archaeological survey of part of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn, on Corrour Estate, near Spean Bridge, Lochaber, Highland. Two sites, an iron post and wire fence, Site 1 , and the site of a foot bridge, Site 2 , are associated with late 19 th and 20 th century land management. Interpretation of Site 3 is hampered by the forestry ploughing over and around the monument. It seems to be a platform and may even have originated as a prehistoric roundhouse. However, it might simply be a natural feature or the result of the ploughing.

No scheduled ancient monuments, listed buildings or designed landscapes are situated within, or in the vicinity of, the survey area. Impact assessments and mitigations are summarised in the table in Appendix A.

2. Introduction. An archaeological survey was undertaken, on behalf of Hydroplan UK, along part of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn on Corrour Estate, near Spean Bridge, Lochaber, Highland. (OS 1:10,000 Sheets NN47NW and NN48SW) prior to the proposed construction of a hydro scheme. (See Fig. 1: Location Map)

Fig. 1: Location Map of Area Extract from OS Landranger 42 (©Crown copyright 2008. All rights reserved .Licence Number 10044103)

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The survey area is situated on the West bank of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn with a projecting spur on the North side of a tributary, the Allt Cam.

The hydro scheme consists of (See Fig. 5): a) an intake on the Abhainn Ghuilbinn at NN 42485 79179 b) a subsidiary intake on the Allt Cam at NN 43138 79750 c) an underground pipeline from the intakes along the West bank of Abhainn Ghuilbinn and the North bank of Allt Cam to: d) a power house to be situated between NN 43128 80318, NN 43105 80325 and NN 43124 80329. e) a new access track from the Abhainn Ghuilbinn at approximately NN 42720 79355 to the existing estate track at NN 42405 79390. Further access will be by existing estate tracks.

The survey area consists of 50m either side of the pipeline routes and 100m radius around the site of the power house.

The survey area to the West of Abhainn Ghuilbinn lies within Corrour forestry plantation, which was the subject of a desk-based assessment undertaken by the writer in 2010 and reported in “An Archaeological Survey of Inverlair and Corrour Forestry Plantations, Corrour Estate, Spean Bridge, Lochaber, Highland” by Jennifer G. Robertson, July 2010. No archaeological features were recorded at that time within the present survey area, though the latter was not included in the targeted walkover survey which was carried out.

3. Working Methods. The survey consisted of a combination of a desk-based assessment and a rapid walkover survey.

3.1. Desk-based Assessment. Desk-based research assessed the potential for archaeology in the area. The following sources were consulted:

3.1.1 Sites and Monuments Registers a) The National Monuments Record of (NMRS), held by RCAHMS, John Sinclair House, 16 Bernard Terrace, EH8 9NX, available on www.rcahms.gov.uk b) The Historic Environment Record, (HER) held by the Highland Council Archaeology Unit, Planning and Development Service, Highland Council, Glenurquhart Road, , IV3 5NX, available on www.am.baile.org.uk

No sites have been recorded on the above databases within, or in the vicinity of, the survey area.

3.1.2 Maps. Roy’s Military Survey of Scotland, 1747-55. James Dorret: A general map of Scotland and islands thereto belonging, 1750. John Thomson: Atlas of Scotland: Northern Part of Argyllshire, Southern Part, 1832. OS 1 st Ed. 6” Map Sheets Inverness-shire cxlii & cxliii, surveyed 1870, publ. 1872-3 OS 2 nd Ed. 6” Map Sheets Inverness-shire cxlii & cxliii, surveyed 1899, publ. 1902-04 OS 1:10,000 Sheets NN47NW and NN48SW, 1991-2. OS 1:25,000 Explorer 393 Ben Alder, Loch Ericht & , 2007.

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3.1.3 Archives. a) National Archives of Scotland (NAS), West Register House, Charlotte Square, Edinburgh: RHP 861 Plan of the Lordship of Lochaber from Mr Roy’s Survey in 1812-13, 1831. RHP 2493 Plan of the Lordship of Lochaber, 1812-13. RHP 2494 Volume containing 42 plans of the Lordship of Lochaber exhibiting the different farms and tacks of the Duke of Gordon, 1767. RHP 12650 Plan of the lands in and to the west of “Carour” (Corrour).

b) RCAHMS: Ordnance Survey Name Books, c. 1870, available on www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk c) Lochaber Archives, Lochaber College, Fort William: Census 1841, 1851, 1861 d) Robertson, Jennifer G.: “An Archaeological Survey of Inverlair and Corrour Forestry Plantations, Corrour Estate, Spean Bridge, Lochaber, Highland”, an unpublished report prepared for Corrour Estate, July 2010.

3.1.4 Aerial Photographs. Aerial photographs, held by the Air Photo Unit, RCAHMS, Edinburgh, were consulted. a) 106G/Scot/UK 61: Date 8.3.45; Scale: 1:10,200; Frames 3306-3320, 3375-3385, 4135-4145, 4302-4304.

3.1.5 Published Sources. The following contained information relevant to the survey area:

Crone, Anne: “Late beginnings; an early modern crannog at Eaderloch, , Lochaber” in History Scotland, Vol. 11 No 1, Jan/Feb 2011, 33-37. Koerner, Lisbet and Dick, David: Corrour: A History of a Sporting Estate , 1998, Hoddesdon. McIntyre, The Rev. John: “Parish of ” in The New Statistical Account of Scotland , 1842. MacMillan, Somerled: Bygone Lochaber , 1971, . Peacock, D., Gordon, J. and May, F.: : A Landscape Fashioned by Geology , 2004, SNH. Ross, Thomas: “Parish of Kilmanivaig” in The (Old) Statistical Account of Scotland , 1791-99.

3.2 Fieldwork. A walkover survey was undertaken by the writer on 12 th April 2014 in dry weather, though after a prolonged period of rainfall. The entire survey area was walked and investigated. All the archaeological sites were recorded, measured and photographed. Their locations were established with a GPS receiver and marked on a map.

The area to the West of Abhainn Ghuilbinn is situated within Corrour Plantation. Much of the route of the pipeline runs along the forestry fence so that the western part of the survey area and, towards the North end, the whole of the survey area, is affected by forestry. The plantation is relatively open and accessible so that visibility is relatively good. However, forestry ploughing has disturbed the surface so that the potential for identifying any small or residual archaeological remains is limited. Some windblow in the North of the survey area and around Site 3 , also hampered investigations.

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4. Historical Background.

“Its appearance is very much diversified by ranges of lofty mountains towards the extremities, intersected by extensive glens in different directions ... and rapid rivers”. (Ross, 1791-99, 543)

Thus the minster of Kilmonivaig described his parish at the end of the eighteenth century. The survey area, on the NE boundary of this parish, fits into this pattern, consisting of the fast-flowing Abhainn Ghuilbinn and Allt Cam, overlooked by the steep-sided Beinn a’ Chlachair.

It is a landscape carved out by glaciation. The Abhainn Ghuilbinn lies immediately to the East of the area of the renowned Glen Roy parallel roads, caused by the weathering and wave action along the shorelines of ice-dammed lakes. (Peacock, Gordon and May, 2004, 11) The end moraines of the glacier lie just to the west of the survey area, running SSW-NNE across Corrour Forest. Nevertheless, glaciation still had a considerable effect on the area, carving out the U-shaped valley, containing Loch Ghuilbinn and Strath Ossian. Such landscape drama is reflected in the place-name association with the heroic tales of Ossian, or Oisin, son of Fionn mac Cumhaill and, in the mid-18 th century, the whole glen from Loch Ossian via Loch Ghuilbinn to the was known as Glen Oyshen . (Roy’s Map)

At the end of the Ice Age, woodland encroached northwards and much of the survey area was probably once covered in trees, the remains of which are still visible. (Smout, 1993, 40 in Koerner and Dick, 1998, 3) However, many of these trees seem to have been engulfed in the peat, which formed in the climatic deterioration towards the end of the prehistoric period. ( ibid ) Certainly, in the 18 th century, the survey area was depicted as a treeless landscape and, in 1767, Torgulbin was said to have “no wood”. (Roy’s Map; NAS RHP 2494/41) Some remains of the ancient trees within the peat have been revealed by forestry ploughing within the plantation.

There is little evidence of prehistoric activity in the vicinity of Abhainn Ghuilbinn. The nearest site of possible prehistoric origin is the crannog on Loch Treig, once thought to have been constructed in the Romano-British period, though recent research has cast doubt on this interpretation. (NMRS Ref. NN37NW.1; Crone, 2011, 33-37) There is a possibility that the platform, Site 3 , has prehistoric origins, though interpretation is hampered by the forestry ploughing and this may alternatively be a natural feature.

In the Medieval period, Corrour lay within the barony of Lochaber, ultimately under the control of the Lords of the Isles. (Koerner and Dick, 1998, 6) From the end of the 14 th century, these lands were occupied by the MacDonalds (or MacDonells) of Keppoch and, over the next few centuries, they were involved in skirmishes with their Mackintosh neighbours, including the last clan battle fought in Scotland in 1688, as well as cattle raiding further from home. (op.cit. 8 - 11; Macmillan, 1971, 144 - 152)

The earliest detailed record of the survey area dates to the mid-18 th century; the map made by General Roy in the aftermath of the Jacobite Rising of 1745 shows a mountainous and barren landscape along Glen Oyshen . (Roy’s map, 1747-55) The nearest settlement is downstream at Torgoulben near the confluence with the River Spean. This settlement consisted of a cluster of houses on the West bank of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn near the site of the 19 th century Torgulbin farmhouse, with another cluster further west, focussed on approximately NN 42560 82270. (Robertson, 2010, Sites 36 and 34 respectively)

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The volume of 42 plans of “the Lordship of Lochaber exhibiting the different farms and tacks of the Duke of Gordon”, dating to 1767, provides greater detail. (NAS RHP 2494) Turgulabin farm consists of five buildings and an enclosure on the West bank of Gulbon (Abhainn Ghuilbinn) in the same location as on Roy’s map. The use of these place-names in the 18 th century suggest that while the whole glen may have been called Glen Oyshen, the north-flowing river and adjacent hill were named Abhainn Ghuilbinn and Torr Ghuilbinn, meaning the River and Hill of the Curlews, respectively. (OS Name Book)

Torgulbin Farm is described in 1767 as “the Easternmost farm belonging to the Duke of Gordon in Lochaber. It lyes on West side of Gulabin Water and March[es] with Badenoch and South side of Spean River and is bounded by them on East & North, on the South by Fersit & pastures of Inverlair”. (NAS RHP 2494/41) It consisted of only 18 acres of arable land but 2040 acres of “hills & pastures adjacent”. The farm is shown on a later map to extend from the Abhainn Ghuilbinn westwards to Allt Creagan na Seabhaig and from the River Spean southwards to Allt na Feithe Buidhe, so that the survey area was presumably part of the extensive pasture land of Torgulbin Farm. (See Fig. 2) (NAS RHP 861) The farm also included “Sheildings at a distance”, though these were not named and no place-names, which may have been derived from use as summer shielings, can be identified within the boundaries of the farm on any maps.

Fig. 2: Copy of the Plan of the Lordship of Lochaber, 1812-14 (NAS RHP 861, 2493)

Thus, in the 18 th century, the survey area seems to have been part of the black cattle economy, providing pasture for the cattle, which were then taken, via the drove roads, to market in Crieff or Falkirk. This trade, which peaked in the 17 th and 18 th centuries, may have been carried out since Medieval times. However, by the end of

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the century the agricultural economy of the Highlands was changing dramatically with the arrival of sheep farming. Thus in the 1790’s, in the parish of Kilmonivaig, “agriculture has made little progress .. as the whole parish is more suited to grazing, particularly sheep farming.” (Ross, 1791-9, 544) There were then 60,000 sheep in the parish, rising to 100,000 by 1842. (ibid., McIntyre, 1842, 504) Sheep had clearly arrived at Torgulbin by 1814; a Plan of the Lordship of Lochaber, dated 1812-14, depicted a sheepfank (recorded by the writer in 2010) on the West bank of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn, downstream from the survey area while an area on the South bank of the River Spean had been enclosed as a Tup Park. (See Fig. 2) (Robertson, 2010, Site 33)

The name Esscham is also recorded on this 1812-14 map, written across the survey area. (See Fig. 2) This is repeated on Thomson’s map of 1832, written across the Abhainn Ghuilbinn. It is tempting to interpret this as a corruption of Eas , meaning waterfall, and possibly Cam , as in Allt Cam. The waterfall marked on contemporary maps is Eas Ban, to the South of the Allt Cam confluence. However, another waterfall to the North of Allt Cam at NN 43222 80062, may have been once known as Eas Cam. Both these waterfalls will be affected by the proposed scheme and are illustrated here as a record of the landscape. (See Figs. 3 and 4)

Fig. 3: Eas Ban, S of Allt Cam Fig. 4: ?Eas Cam, N of Allt Cam

In 1834, the Duke of Gordon’s Loch Treig Estates were bought as an investment by John Walker of Dumfriesshire. (Koerner and Dick, 1998, 23) Areas of the estate were let for grazing to shepherds and, in 1851, shepherds occupied houses at Torgulbin and Strath Ossian. (ibid ., 1851 Census) The survey area, once used as pasture for cattle, was now presumably a sheep walk. However, sheep farming, itself, was soon under threat; the collapse in wool prices in the 1880’s led to the expansion of the deer forest at the expense of the sheep walks. (Koerner and Dick, 1998, 27-8) The decline in sheep farming at Torgulbin is graphically illustrated in the series of Ordnance Survey 6” maps. The sheepfank on the Abhainn Ghuilbinn was probably still in use in 1870 when it was depicted and labelled “Sheepfold” on the First Edition of the 6” map but had presumably been abandoned by 1899 when only the small eastern compartment was recorded (unlabelled) on the Second Edition.

In 1891, the Estate of Corrour and Fersit was bought by Sir John Stirling Maxwell. (Koerner and Dick, 1998, 39) A large area was sold at some stage to the Forestry Commission and planted with trees as Corrour Forest. It was, in recent years, re- acquired by Corrour Estate.

The small part of the survey area along the North bank of Allt Cam is situated on the East side of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn and therefore outwith the historic boundary of the Corrour lands and also of the parish of Kilmonivaig. The area to the East of this river,

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was part of Badenoch parish and of the lands of Cluny MacPherson. Allt Cam, meaning the Crooked Stream, certainly follows a crooked path from its origin in the steep-sided valley between two Munros, Beinn a’ Chlachair and Geal-Charn, to its confluence with the Abhainn Ghuilbinn. The more gently sloping ground along the lower reaches of this stream was probably used for pasture, similarly to the Abhainn Ghuilbinn; the hill to the North is called Meall Ardruighe, meaning the Hill of High Pasture. A farmstead called Lubvan was built upstream at some stage during the 19 th century. It was depicted on the OS 1 st Ed. 6” map of 1872 and described by the surveyors as “thatched and in good repair”. (OS Name Book) However, by 1899 it had been abandoned and was depicted as roofless on the OS 2 nd Ed. map.

5. Results. A total of three archaeological sites has been recorded in the present survey. Two sites, an iron post and wire fence, Site 1 , and the site of a foot bridge, Site 2 , are associated with late 19 th and 20 th century land management. Interpretation of Site 3 is hampered by the forestry ploughing over and around the monument. It seems to be a platform and may even have originated as a prehistoric roundhouse. However, it might simply be a natural feature or the result of the ploughing.

6. Gazetteer of Sites.

Site 1. Old Fence. NGR (NE end) NN 42453 79130 (gate) NN 42448 79130 (NE end of subsidiary fence) NN 42495 79165 The remains of an iron post and wire fence is situated on the West bank of the Abhainn Ghuilbinn, running southwestwards from the site of the intake. The NE end is marked by an iron post embedded in a rock on the edge of the river. A short distance to the SW is a gate in situ . From the gate, the fence runs southwestwards along a forestry ride to the estate track. It is interrupted by the track but then continues to the SW along the NW side of the track. A subsidiary fence originally ran from the gate to the NNE, culminating in a three- pronged iron post also embedded in rocks on the edge of the river. Groups of holes in other rocks reveal the former route of the fence posts and stays at NN 42489 79170, NN 42491 79167 and NN 42493 79167. This fence was presumably constructed in the early 20 th century: it is not marked on either the 1 st or 2 nd editions of the OS 6” map, surveyed in 1870 and 1899.

Site 1 Fence - Gate from SW Site 1, subsidiary fence, postholes in foreground, NNE end post background Impact Assessment : The NE end of this fence will be demolished in the construction of the intake on Abhainn Ghuilbinn. Mitigation : This site is not of any antiquity and the present description is sufficient record. No further action is required.

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Site 2. Site of Foot Bridge. NGR NN 42789 79449

A foot bridge is marked on the OS 2 nd Ed. 6” map at the waterfall to the South of Allt Cam, Eas Ban. There are no obvious abutments along the riverbank to indicate the location of this bridge but the collection of loose stones atop the rock outcrop on either bank at NN 42789 79449 may have been the supports for a bridge at this point, the narrowest part of the river Photo of stone atop outcrop on East bank of river, from W Impact Assessment: This site is not at risk. Mitigation : No action is required.

Site 3. Possible Platform / ?Roundhouse. NGR (midpoint) NN 43146 80255

A circular or, more accurately, elliptical platform, c. 10m NNE-SSW by c. 12m, is situated within the plantation near the North end of the survey area. The most distinguishing feature is the level interior defined by a steep escarpment, 1.30m in height along the NNE (front) sector. Some large blocks of stone are situated along this slope. Unfortunately, the whole of the platform has been ploughed and planted with lodgepole pine. The furrows are oriented SSW-NNE in the SSW half and WNW-ESE in the NNE sector. Interpretation of the site is hampered by the ploughing and it is difficult to establish its original extent. It is unlikely to be a charcoal burners’ platform: most of those in the West Highlands are associated with the Bonawe Iron Furnace and date to the late 18 th century, at which time Torgulbin farm was said to be treeless. The stone content might be consistent with a prehistoric roundhouse, though it is also noticeable that a considerable amount of stone has been revealed by forestry ploughing elsewhere in the vicinity. The site may simply be a natural feature or a natural terrace, exaggerated by the effects of ploughing. Photo from N (photo scale at rear of “platform”) Impact Assessment: This site is situated about 5m from the route of the pipeline. Mitigation : This site may be natural or a result of ploughing but, in case of earlier origin, it must be avoided. It should be possible to route the pipeline round it and it is to be marked out on the ground to avoid any accidental damage.

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Appendix A: List of Archaeological Sites

Site No. Grid Reference Impact Assessment Mitigation

Site 1 NN 42453 79130 (NE end) The NE end of this fence will This site is not of any antiquity and the present Old Fence NN 42448 79130 (gate) be demolished in the description is sufficient record. No further NN 42495 79165 (NE end of construction of the intake on action is required. subsidiary fence) Abhainn Ghuilbinn.

Site 2 NN 42789 79449 This site is not at risk No action is required. Site of Foot Bridge

Site 3 NN 43146 80255 (midpoint) This site is situated about This site may be natural or of recent origin but, Possible Platform / 5m from the route of the in case of earlier origin, must be avoided. It ?Roundhouse pipeline. should be possible to route the pipeline round it and it is to be marked out on the ground to avoid any accidental damage.

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Fig. 5: Plan of the Proposed Ghuilbinn Hydro Scheme.

(Map from Hydroplan)

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Fig. 6: Plan of Archaeological Sites 1 -3.

Extract from OS Explorer 393 (©Crown copyright 2007. All rights reserved .Licence Number 10044103)

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