CONTENTS

List of Maps vii

1 THE BEST OF ECUADOR 1 The Best Purely Ecuadorean Travel The Best Moderately Priced & Experiences 1 Budget Hotels 10 The Best of Natural Ecuador 4 The Best Ecolodges & Haciendas 11 The Best Historical Sites & The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Museums 5 Small Inns 12 The Best Outdoor Adventures 7 The Best Restaurants 14 The Best Bird-Watching 8 The Best Shopping & Markets 15 The Best Destinations for The Best After-Dark Fun 16 Families 8 The Best Websites About The Best Luxury Hotels 9 Ecuador 16

2 ECUADOR IN DEPTH 18 Ecuador Today 18 ECUADOR CALENDAR OF EVENTS 33 Looking Back: Ecuador History 20 The Lay of the Land 34 Art & Architecture 25 Sustainable Tourism 35 Ecuador in Popular Culture: Books, GENERAL RESOURCES FOR RESPONSIBLE Music & Films 27 TRAVEL 35 Llapingachos, Cuy & Pilsener: SUSTAINABLE PROPERTIES IN ECUADOR 36 Ecuadorean Food & Drink 29 Spanish-Language Programs 37 When to Go 32

3 SUGGESTED ECUADOR ITINERARIES 40 The Regions in Brief 40 ECUADOR FOR FAMILIES 48 ECUADOR INCOPYRIGHTED 1 WEEK 43 ECUADOR MATERIAL FOR ADVENTURE TRAVELERS 50 ECUADOR IN 2 WEEKS 46 QUITO IN 3 DAYS 52

4 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER 55 Organized Adventure Trips 55 THE BIG PEAKS 68 Activities A to Z 58 Ecuador’s Top National Parks & HUMMINGBIRD HEAVEN 61 Bioreserves 72 SEARCHING FOR WILDLIFE 76

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5 QUITO 80 Orientation 81 THE QUITO SCHOOL OF ART 105 THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 82 GETTING HIGH IN QUITO 106 BREAKING THE CODE 83 Outdoor Activities & Spectator Getting Around 83 Sports 113 FAST FACTS: QUITO 87 Shopping 114 Where to Stay 89 Quito After Dark 116 Where to Dine 98 PLAZA FOCH: GROUND ZERO IN MARISCAL 119 What to See & Do 104 Side Trips from Quito 121

6 THE NORTHERN SIERRA 128 Otavalo 128 Ibarra 145 OTAVALO GLOBALIZED 136 THE MINGA 147 TREE TOMATO 143 Tulcan 151

7 THE CENTRAL SIERRA 155 Cotopaxi National Park 155 IT’S CHICHA TIME 174 ANDEAN CONDOR 160 Baños 176 Latacunga 163 TUNGURAHUA: BACK WITH A BANG 182 Ambato 170 Riobamba 186

8 CUENCA & THE SOUTHERN SIERRA 196 Cuenca 196 THE VIRGIN OF EL CISNE 219 THE PANAMA HAT 205 Vilcabamba 222 Loja 215

9 GUAYAQUIL & THE SOUTHERN COAST 227 Guayaquil 227 Puerto Lopez & Machalilla National LA RIVALIDAD: QUITO & GUAYAQUIL 228 Park 253 A MEETING OF GIANTS 233 HAVING A WHALE OF A TIME 255 IF YOU’RE SHORT ON TIME 235 Machala & South to the Peruvian 258 Salinas & the Santa Elena Border Peninsula 245 GOING BANANAS 261 Montañita 250

002_9780470949511-ftoc.indd2_9780470949511-ftoc.indd iviv 55/18/11/18/11 1:271:27 PMPM 10 THE NORTHERN PACIFIC COAST & LOWLANDS 264 Manta 264 Atacames & the Beaches West of THE MANTA AIRBASE 268 Esmeraldas 287 Bahia de Caraquez 273 Santo Domingo de los Colorados 291 Canoa 278 RED-HAIRED BOYS 293 Esmeraldas 282 ESMERALDAS: ECUADOR’S AFRICAN COAST? 283

11 EL ORIENTE 295 Lago Agrio & Cuyabeno Wildlife ORELLANA’S JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY 305 Reserve 296 Tena & the Upper Río Napo 309 DOWN & DIRTY IN THE JUNGLE 298 Puyo & the Southern Amazon COFÁN CHIEF RANDY BORMAN 302 Basin 316 El Coca & the Lower Río Napo 302 FARTHER DOWN THE ROAD: MACAS 319

12 THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS 321 Essentials 322 Puerto Ayora & Santa Cruz THE ISLANDS IN BRIEF 325 Island 335 Cruises 328 UNWANTED GUESTS 339 NOT YOUR TYPICAL PASSENGER: CHARLES Puerto Baquerizo Moreno & San DARWIN & THE GALÁPAGOS Cristobal Island 347 ISLANDS 330 Staying on Other Islands 353 ORGANIZING A LAST-MINUTE TRIP TO THE AN ISLAND WHODUNIT? 354 GALÁPAGOS 334 THE GALÁPAGOS TORTOISE 356

13 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ECUADOR 357 Getting There 357 Tips on Dining 362 Getting Around 358 FAST FACTS: ECUADOR 363 CAR-RENTAL TIPS 359 Airline Websites 373 Tips on Accommodations 361

14 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 375 Basic Words & Phrases 375 Travel Terms 380 Menu Terms 378 Typical Ecuadorean Words & Hotel Terms 380 Phrases 381

002_9780470949511-ftoc.indd2_9780470949511-ftoc.indd v 55/18/11/18/11 1:271:27 PMPM 15 ECUADOREAN WILDLIFE 382 Mammals 382 Reptiles 390 Birds 387 Invertebrates 392 Amphibians 389 Sea Life 393

Index 396 General Index 396 Accommodations Index 403

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The Best of Ecuador2 Baños177 The Regions in Brief41 Riobamba187 Ecuador in 1 Week45 The Southern Sierra197 Ecuador in 2 Weeks47 Cuenca199 Ecuador for Families49 Vilcabamba223 Ecuador for Adventure Travelers51 The Southern Coast229 Quito in 3 Days53 Guayaquil230 Ecuador’s National Parks & Protected Machalilla National Park257 Areas57 Northern Pacific Coast & Lowlands265 Quito84 Manta267 Old Town91 Bahía de Caráquez275 New Town93 El Oriente297 Side Trips from Quito123 Río Napo303 The Northern Sierra129 Tena311 Otavalo131 Puyo317 Around Otavalo135 The Galápagos Islands323 The Central Sierra157 Puerto Ayora337 Cotopaxi National Park159 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno349 Quilotoa Loop169

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