Spring 2020 in This Issue

SMOKIESThe official newspaper of Great Smoky GUIDE Mountains National Park • Spring 2020 In this issue

Smokies Trip Planner • 2 Return of Fireflies • 4 National Park News • 5 Safety in the Mountains • 6 Spring Driving Map • 8 Jr. Ranger Corner • 10 How to Help the Smokies • 11 Bears Emerge • 12 Park Etiquette • 14 Visitor Information • 16

The Blue Ridge two-lined salamander’s (Eurycea wilderae) larvae are aquatic, living in streams and under rocks. Image courtesy of John P. Clare Moving Rocks Harms Aquatic Wildlife! Biodiversity thrives beneath the surface of Smokies streams pring is finally here! And as tempera- or removal of these rocks disrupts breeding tures and humidity rise, visitors are behavior and can completely destroy the J S u r li e tempted to dip their toes—and more—in nest and eggs of both salamanders and fish.” a g n n n a the cool waters of the park’s 2,900 miles of People visit the Smokies to escape the e R G k el ar clear mountain streams. modern world—yet rock cairns, dams, and ey n P nse, Educatio The Smokies’ streams are fed by tens of channels are evidence of human distur- thousands of rain-fed springs, constantly bance, changing the park’s wilderness char- Words with a Ranger trickling water from crevices in the ancient acter that now draws 12.5 million visitors My childhood was spent playing and mountain range. Residing beneath the each year. HOW CAN YOU fishing in the lakes and rivers of the surface is everything from native brook “When rocks are moved, the water ENCOURAGE OTHERS Midwest. With more than 2,000 miles trout to 11 species of crayfish to 15 species temperature, flow, and dissolved oxygen TO PREVENT of streams flowing from the moun- of salamanders. These creatures currently are altered, completely changing the MOVING ROCKS? tains to the valleys of Great Smoky face a huge threat—from some of the visi- habitat and disrupting the aquatic life,” Share positive messaging Mountains National Park, it’s easy to tors who come to enjoy the park! Geleynse said. “Some species of aquatic on how to protect aquatic life feel at home here. “This time of year, people begin to stack insects are immobile and die once As an education park ranger, part of rocks and create ‘cairns,’ channels, and rock removed from the stream.” through your social media my job is to educate park visitors about dams in the park’s streams and creeks,” said Moving rocks poses a great threat in outlets. Parents and children the cultural and natural resources in the Park Ranger Julianne Geleynse. “Many particular to aquatic wildlife like eastern can encourage each other park and how to protect them. With salamander and fish species lay their eggs hellbenders, endangered Smoky Madtoms, to respect park streams and more than 12 million visitors annually, under rocks of various sizes. The movement and Citico Darters. leave no trace. the resources can sometimes be dam- OUR PARK GreatSmoky GreatSmokyNPS aged, often unintentionally. GreatSmokyNPS Words with a Ranger continued on page 5 ON SOCIAL MEDIA MountainsNPS and SmokiesRoadsNPS SMOKIES TRIP PLANNER Maps and guides: SmokiesInformation.org Additional information: nps.gov/grsm

Camping in the national park The list below shows number of sites, Bicycles are permitted on park roads For rent The National Park Service maintains elevations, opening dates, nightly fees, but prohibited on trails except Gatlin- The Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence developed campgrounds at nine loca- and maximum RV lengths. For more burg, Oconaluftee River, and lower Cabin at Elkmont can be rented for tions in the park. Only Cades Cove and information, visit nps.gov/grsm. Deep Creek/Indian Creek. daytime events starting April 1. Contact Smokemont are open in winter. There recreation.gov. are no showers or hookups other than • Abrams Creek 16 sites, elev. 1,125', Accommodations circuits for special medical uses at Cades opens April 24, $17.50, 12' trailers • LeConte Lodge (accessible by trail Visitor centers Cove, Elkmont, and Smokemont. • Balsam Mountain 42 sites, elev. 5,310', only) provides the only lodging in the Spring hours of operation are Campsite reservations are required at opens May 15, $17.50, 30' RVs park. 865.429.5704 or lecontelodge.com Oconaluftee and Sugarlands: 8-5 in Abrams Creek, Balsam Mountain, Big • Big Creek 12 sites, elev. 1,700', opens March; 8-6 in April and May. Cades Creek, and Cataloochee campgrounds. April 3, $17.50, tents only For information on lodging outside Cove: 9-6 in March; 9-6:30 in April; Reservations also may be made at Cades • Cades Cove 159 sites, elev. 1,807', the park: 9-7 in May. Clingmans Dome (opens Cove, Cosby, Elkmont, and Smokemont. opens March 6 after tunnel repairs this • Bryson City 800.867.9246 or March 30): 10-6. Sites may be reserved up to six months winter, $21-$25, 35'-40' RVs greatsmokies.com in advance. Make your reservation at • Cataloochee 27 sites, elev. 2,610', • Cherokee 828.788.0034 or Picnic areas recreation.gov or call 877.444.6777. opens June 11, $25, 31' RVs cherokeesmokies.com Picnic areas open year-round are: Site occupancy is limited to six • Cosby 157 sites, elev. 2,459', opens • Fontana 800.849.2258 or Cades Cove, Deep Creek, Greenbrier, people and two vehicles (a trailer = one April 3, $17.50, 25' RVs fontanavillage.com and Metcalf Bottoms. Chimneys Picnic vehicle). The maximum stay is 14 days. • Deep Creek 92 sites, elev. 1,800', • Gatlinburg 800.588.1817 or Area opens March 13. Picnic areas Special camping sites for large groups opens May 21, $21, 26' RVs gatlinburg.com opening April 3 include Big Creek, are available seasonally at Big Creek, • Elkmont 220 sites, elev. 2,150', open, • Maggie Valley 800.624.4431 or Collins Creek, and Cosby. Look Rock Cades Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, Deep $21-$27, 32'-35' RVs maggievalley.org Picnic Area opens May 1 and Heintooga Creek, Elkmont, and Smokemont. • Smokemont 142 sites, elev. 2,198', • Pigeon Forge 800.251.9100 or Picnic Area opens May 15. Please see Group sites must be reserved and may be open year-round, $21-$25, 35'-40' RVs. mypigeonforge.com the map on page 16 for locations. Picnic secured up to a year in advance. • Look Rock closed in 2020 • Sevierville 888.766.5948 or pavilions may be reserved for $12.50- visitsevierville.com $80 at recreation.gov. Firewood • Townsend 800.525.6834 or To prevent the spread of destructive smokymountains.org Other services insect pests, the NPS has banned outside There are no gas stations, showers, or firewood from entering the park unless it Pets in the park restaurants in the national park. is USDA- or state-certified heat-treated Pets are allowed in front-country camp- wood. Campers may gather dead and grounds and beside roads as long as they Park weather down wood for campfires. Certified are restrained at all times. Pets are not • Spring - March has the most wood may be purchased in and around allowed on park trails, except for the changeable weather; snow can fall the park. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee River Trails. on any day, especially at the higher Dogs on these trails must be leashed. elevations. Backpackers are often caught Bicycling off guard when a sunny day in the Most park roads are too narrow and Special events 70s°F is followed by a wet, bitterly cold MOVING ROCKS heavily traveled by automobiles for safe or April 22–25, 2020 Spring Wildflower one. By mid- to late April, the weather enjoyable bicycling. Pilgrimage: parkwide is milder. HARMS Helmets are required by law for May 5–9, 2020 Wilderness Wildlife persons age 16 and under. However, Week: parkwide • Summer - By mid-June, heat, haze and AQUATIC LIFE. helmets are strongly recommended for June 20, 2020 Women’s Work humidity are the norm. Most precipita- all bicyclists. Mountain Farm Museum tion occurs as afternoon thundershowers. SMOKIES GUIDE Smokies Guide is produced five times per year by Publication dates are Autumn: mid-Sept. Writers Design Assistants Planning Committee Stephanie Sutton Great Smoky Mountains Association and Great roughly as follows: Winter: mid-Dec. Valerie Polk Lisa Horstman PT Lathrop © 2020 Great E Printed on Smoky Mountains National Park. Spring: mid-March Aaron Searcy Emma DuFort Lisa Nagurny Editor Smoky Mountains recycled paper Summer: early June Becky Nichols Frances Figart Lead Designer NPS Coordinator Association nps.gov/grsm Late Summer: Bill Stiver Karen Key Susan Sachs P.O. Box 130 mid-August SmokiesInformation.org Paul Super Gatlinburg, TN 37738

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 2 • Autumn - In mid-September, a pattern snowy with highs in the 20s. At A free fishing map with a complete wet (not cotton). Be prepared for of warm, sunny days and crisp, clear the low elevations, snows of 1" or list of all park fishing regulations is avail- sudden weather changes, especially at nights often begins. However, cool, rainy more occur 3-5 times per year. At able at visitor centers. the higher elevations. Stay dry. days also occur. Snow may fall at the Newfound Gap, 69" fall on average. higher elevations in November. Lows of -20°F are possible at the Camping in the backcountry Road Closures higher elevations. Springtime camping can be an exciting Many secondary and higher elevation • Winter - Days during this fickle adventure for persons properly equipped roads are closed in winter and open season can be sunny and 65°F or and informed. To facilitate this activity, later into spring. Please refer to the map the National Park Service maintains on pages 8 and 9 for opening dates for Fishing more than 800 miles of trails and more Clingmans Dome and other seasonally Fishing is than 100 backcountry campsites and closed roads. permitted year- shelters throughout the park. One of Road access to the Cataloochee area round in the the greatest challenges for backcountry is closed through May 20 for NC Dept. park, and a campers is deciding where to go. Here of Transportation road repairs. Tennessee or are some tools to help. North Carolina 1. Get the map. Go online to view Driving distances and fishing license is the park’s official trail map (nps.gov/ estimated times required. Either grsm/planyourvisit/maps.htm), which state license is shows all park trails, campsites, and Cherokee, NC to: valid throughout shelters. Park rules and regulations are Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) the park, and no also listed here. If you wish, you can Cades Cove: 58 miles (2 hours) trout stamp is purchase the printed version of the trail Newfound Gap: 18 miles required. Fishing map for $1 by stopping at any park with bait is visitor center or calling 865.436.7318 (½ hour) prohibited in x226 or shopping online at Clingmans Dome: 25 miles the park. A SmokiesInformation.org. (¾ hour) special permit 2. Plan your trip. Call or stop by Cataloochee: 39 miles is required for the park’s backcountry office, which is (1½ hours) the Cherokee open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m, for Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) Reservation trip planning help. The office is located and Gatlin- in Sugarlands Visitor Center, two miles Gatlinburg, TN to: burg. Licenses south of Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) are available in 865.436.1297. Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) nearby towns. 3. Get a permit. Make your reserva- Newfound Gap: 16 miles tion and obtain your permit through (½ hour) the backcountry office at Sugarlands Clingmans Dome: 23 miles Visitor Center (by phone or in person) (¾ hour) or online at smokiespermits.nps.gov. Cataloochee: 65 miles These temperature Reservations and permits are (2½ hours) and precipitation required for all overnight stays in the Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles averages are backcountry. The cost is $4 per person (¼ hour) based on data for per night. Reservations may be made the last 20 years. Deep Creek: 48 miles Temperatures up to 30 days in advance. (1½ hours) are in degrees Spring hikers should be especially Fahrenheit. An aware of the danger of hypothermia— Townsend, TN to: average of over the lowering of body temperature. The Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) 84" (7 feet) of combination of rain, cold, and wind Newfound Gap: 34 miles precipitation falls is especially dangerous. At the park’s (1¼ hours) on the higher higher elevations, hypothermia can be a elevations of the Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) threat even during summer. Smokies. On Mt. Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) E Printed on To prevent hypothermia, carry recycled paper Le Conte, an Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) reliable rain gear at all times. Layer average of 82.8" of Cataloochee: 87 miles (3 hours) snow falls per year. clothing that provides warmth when

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 3 Smokies Glow with the Return of Fireflies Photinus carolinus lights up the Smokies’ night skies

THE FIREFLY LOTTERY

The Elkmont area is open only to campers and shuttle-bus riders during the he Smokies are world famous for their fireflies, and Firefly habitats include tall grasses and open-cove forests, peak of the synchronous Tone species in particular, Photinus carolinus, puts on both of which have been dramatically reduced by human firefly display. To enter the a particularly spectacular display. Of the 19 species of development. Fireflies also need darkness free of light pollu- lottery, visit recreation. fireflies known to light up the night in the Smokies,P. tion. Even flashlights and headlights can cause fireflies to gov and search “firefly carolinus is the only one with a synchronized light show. stop flashing completely for several minutes at a time. event lottery.” Winners will Fewer than 1 percent of some 2,000+ distinct firefly You can help protect fireflies and enjoy the show too with receive a firefly-safe light species are known to flash synchronously as part of their the viewing tips below: and a one-night park-and- mating display. The bioluminescence common to fireflies • Let fireflies shine as they are and do not catch or ride pass for a $25 fee. For helps males and females recognize each other at dusk. collect them. additional information, As word of the Smokies’ synchronous fireflies has spread, • Keep light to a minimum—use a red-tinted light and the Elkmont area has implemented a lottery and shuttle keep it pointed toward the ground to reduce light pollution. visit nps.gov/grsm. system to ensure resources are protected and viewers have a Firefly-safe lights are available at park visitor centers. safe and enjoyable experience. The timing of viewing events • Pack out all garbage and stay on trails at all times— Park partner Discover Life relies on a firefly prediction system carefully managed by firefly larvae and vegetation can be crushed by even the most in America is also offering park entomologist Becky Nichols. well-intentioned footsteps. exclusive guided viewing opportunities at a location outside of the park on May 29, 30, and 31. Tickets are $225 per person, and all proceeds support DLiA’s work to discover and con- serve Smokies biodiversity. For details, see dlia.org/ event/fireflies-2020.

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 4 Words with a Ranger PARK NEWS Great Smoky Mountains National Park news briefs continued from page 1 In recent years, visitors have moved rocks to create dams, channels, and cairns to such an extent that it has changed the aquatic habitat, leading to the death of thousands of aquatic animals. Salamanders, fish, and dragonfly larvae are just a few of the creatures that make their homes and nests under the rocks in the streams. Species like the eastern hellbender are so rare that the streams in the park are some of the last places they can be found. To an aquatic animal, moving rocks Cades Cove Access Update Two gravel roads, Sparks Lane and Hyatt Lane, connect the north is like cutting down a tree that The Cades Cove area is now open to all visitors via Laurel Creek and south sides of the 11-mile, one-way Cades Cove Loop Road. supports a bird’s nest. It harms Road from the Townsend Wye entrance to Great Smoky Moun- Allow at least two to four hours to tour Cades Cove, longer if you the adults, eggs, and young. tains National Park. walk some of the area’s trails. Image courtesy of Diego Ferron What can you do? Leave no Visitors to the popular Cades Cove Loop Road this spring trace, so future generations are can expect greening fields, emerging wildlife, blooming wild- updates to the 72-year-old Bote Mountain Tunnel include repaired able to enjoy the park and all flowers, and flowering trees. Camping and picnic areas are also cracks in the concrete liner and replaced drainage features. the species that call it home. available in the area known for its historic structures and hikes to Such repairs are a necessary part of maintaining aging facil- Share with others how they nearby destinations including Abrams Falls and Gregory Bald. ities in the Smokies and across the national park system, much can help to protect the park. Cades Cove was closed to visitor traffic over the winter due of which is currently impacted by the estimated $12 billion in Thank you for not moving to scheduled repairs to the Bote Mountain Tunnel in January deferred maintenance to national park infrastructure as a result of rocks and sharing this message and February 2020. The decision to close this area of the park increasing demand and limited resources. with your friends and family. completely to accommodate the repair was reached through NPS As visitation continues to break records in the Smokies, pro- assessment and with the input of community leaders in favor of jects like the Bote Mountain Tunnel repair will help make sure avoiding prolonged lane closures throughout 2020. The necessary the Smokies continue to be safe and accessible for years to come.

Cherokee Sochan Agreement Enters First Full Season This spring marks the first full harvesting season important for all of us, and this is certainly an since the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians (EBCI) opportunity to do just that.” and the National Park Service finalized a landmark Despite a delayed start last year, the first harvest agreement to allow a limited number of permitted “went very smoothly,” said Albritton. “All sochan EBCI members to harvest sochan for traditional harvesting and reporting by EBCI permittees went food purposes within Great Smoky Mountains according to the guidelines.” National Park (GSMNP). This year, park staff will continue to monitor Sochan, or green-headed coneflower (Rud- designated sochan populations and assess other beckia laciniata), is a culturally significant food plants EBCI members may wish to harvest. “I of the Cherokee, and going to the mountains to think everyone involved is looking forward to the gather its young leaves is a family tradition con- coming season,” said Albritton. sidered by some to be sacred. The tall, late-sum- With the exception of such permits, federal law mer-blooming wildflower is common along protects almost everything in national parks, includ- streams and wet areas throughout the park. ing wildlife, plants, historic objects, and even rocks. “It was a great opportunity to collaborate Exceptions include game fish (with catch limits) and Green-headed coneflower, or sochan, is known for its showy with the EBCI on this project,” said Josh Albrit- berries, nuts, and edible mushrooms (for personal late-summer blooms, but it is the young spring leaves, ton, a park bio-science technician. “Maintaining consumption only). emerging well before the flowers, which are sought by the Cherokee as a favorite spring green. Image courtesy of GSMA. long-standing cultural values and traditions is

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 5 pring is a great time to get out and explore Setting Out for the SGreat Smoky Mountains National Park. As you plan, it’s important to remember that BE MINDFUL OF: the season also brings with it some of the most Mountains...Safely unpredictable weather and rapidly changing • Lightning conditions of the year. Be sure to make responsible planning and safety • High winds It is your responsibility to be safe and a priority, whether you’re setting out on a day hike, • Rapid changes in weather to know and obey park rules. You can packing for an overnight camping trip or taking in the sights on a drive through the mountains. • Emerging wildlife and black bears find information and rules at visitor “You might start out your hike on a clear- • Poison ivy and brambles centers, trailhead bulletin boards, and blue-sky day and end up contending with cold wind, rain, sleet, or snow,” said Backcountry • Slippery logs, rocks, and leaves the park website at nps.gov/grsm. Management Specialist Christine Hoyer. “Even an experienced hiker, park employee, or iPhone can’t • Water-crossings (Water can rise quickly, predict what Mother Nature has in store.” and rocks and logs near water are often After years of experience working in the back- very slippery; closely supervise children BASIC PACK LIST country and with Appalachian Trail thru-hikers, around all water) Hoyer has arrived at a few basics for preventing • Drones are banned on all National Park • Water, a water filter, tablets, or the ability the worst. “What you carry and what kinds of conditions you prepare for has nothing to do with Service property, including the Smokies. to boil water how far you plan to walk. I pack the same essen- • Campfires are permitted only within fire • Food and plenty of snacks will sustain you tials in my backpack no matter what,” said Hoyer. “Quality rain gear and appropriate warm layers are rings. Use only firewood purchased from • Extra layers (base layer, jacket, socks) for a must—and not just wearing them but carrying campgrounds; imported wood contains changing conditions extras with you, too.” dangerous and invasive pests. Do not Beyond bringing layers, Hoyer urges visitors to • Sun protection with sunscreen, sunglasses, leave food or trash in fire rings. pack ample water and food, sources of light and and/or a hat fire, and a reliable means of navigation, since much • Pets are prohibited on all trails (except • Rain gear of the park is without cellular service. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee River trails) Hikers and motorists should factor wind to protect wildlife. Pets may be kept on a • Pack cover to keep what you are carrying dry advisories into their visits, too. As National leash at all times in campgrounds, picnic (ziplocs inside your pack can do this too) Weather Service reporting shows, extreme winds are becoming more frequent in the Smokies. This areas, and along roads. Service animals • Map and compass and the knowledge of means the risk of injury from motor vehicle acci- that have been individually trained to how to use them dents and downed trees is only growing—partic- perform specific tasks for the benefit of ularly in burn-affected areas and in both high and • Shelter in the form of a tent or tarp persons with disabilities are allowed in low elevations. all visitor use areas. • Flashlight or headlamp and batteries “During an extended wind event, mountain wave winds can have devastating impacts on • Metal detector use is prohibited. • Fire starter with a lighter, strike stick, and lower elevation areas as they make their way down something to light northern, leeward slopes,” said Jim Renfro, the • Take only pictures. It is illegal to take any park’s air resource specialist. “That’s where you see natural features including flowers, seeds, • Knife or multi-tool for a variety of uses more trees coming down in areas like Cades Cove, rocks, antlers, or historical artifacts or to Sugarland Valley, or Greenbrier Cove.” • First aid kit with all the essentials to care disturb soils, rocks, or vegetation. Limit- for common accidents From planning ahead to being mindful of emerging wildlife and seasonal hazards, the most ed collection of some fish, berries, nuts, • Permit for camping overnight (provide important part of any trip in the great outdoors is and mushrooms is permitted. coming back safely. itinerary so the NPS knows where to • Pack out all trash and Leave No Trace to begin looking for you in an emergency) “The best thing you can do is have a solid plan and the willingness to adjust your plan if help protect the Smokies. you need to,” said Hoyer. “Take it slow—think before you act.”

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 6 Things to Do There are so many ways to explore and learn about the Smokies

Historic Grist Mills Junior Rangers Quiet Walkways Passport Stamps Two water-powered grist mills operate in Kids 5-12—earn your Great Smoky These peaceful pathways are scattered Ready to have your official Passport to the park seven days per week from spring Mountains National Park Junior Ranger around the park offering visitors an Your National Parks® stamped? You’ll through fall, demonstrating the historic badge today! Just stop by any park opportunity to step outside their vehicles find free site-specific stampers at all park necessity of grinding corn into cornmeal. visitor center and purchase the Junior and soak in the Smokies’ lush and intri- visitor centers and some campgrounds. Cable Mill, located near Cades Cove Ranger booklet ($2.50) appropriate cate beauty. Parking is limited to three If you don’t have one, pick up this Visitor Center, halfway around the Cades for your age. Complete the activities or four vehicles to keep the walkways collector’s edition book in one of the Cove Loop Road, opens March 7. described in the booklet and you’re on quiet. A few of the trails are short loops, park’s visitor centers! Mingus Mill, located 2 miles north of your way to Junior Ranger glory. but most are linear trails inviting walkers Cherokee, NC, near the Mountain Farm to go as far as they wish and then return Museum, opens April 1. the way they came. Look for the Quiet Image of Mingus Mill by Jackie Novak Walkways signs along many park roads. Image by Bill Lea

Self-guiding Tours Want to know a little about the sights you are seeing? Nonprofit park partner Great Smoky Mountains Association has published a series of colorful, In addition, inexpensive booklets keyed to num- stop in at any bered posts along park roads. You’ll learn about park history as well as some visitor center and of the plants and wildlife you’ll encoun- ter along the route. Self-guiding tour get information booklets are available at park visitor centers as well as dispensers beside the about current ranger Field to Fork Audio Tour roads. Tours include: Cades Cove The National Park Service and Great Smoky Mountains Association driving and walking, Roaring Fork programs happening have partnered with Antenna Audio to create a compelling tour of the Motor Nature Trail, the Mountain Mountain Farm Museum at Oconaluftee (2 miles north of Cherokee, Farm Museum, Newfound Gap Road, in the park! NC). You’ll learn how hard-working farm families scratched a living Tremont Logging History, and from the steep, rocky soils of the Smoky Mountains and lived a rich and Mingus Mill. Image of Cades Cove (left) happy life while doing so. Image by GSMA by Bill Lea

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 7 To Knoxville To I-40 To Newport 321 SEVIERVILLE ay w Exit rk Pa 443 32 lls Hartford CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST hi ot In Spring, Cosby Fo Exit Park View 447 129 416 411 Timing is TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Mount Everything Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: Cammerer Center Cosby 321 Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Mount Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Cammerer Creek o ers old-growth forest, waterfalls Trail 40 National Park il 321 and historic buildings. No RVs allowed. ra T Information Center Ga n id you know that, in the past 50 years, spring in the Opens April 10. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

Smoky Mountains has become significantly earlier ig Lo B D w Ga Mouse Walland Tr and warmer? At Sugarlands Visitor Center, since 1970, 129 Foothills ai p arkway Greenbrier l Creek 411 ls P Parkway Falls Aprils have warmed by an average of 4.1°F, Mays by 5°F, hil GATLINBURG ot o Wears Valley es Trail F Red light cad and Junes by 4°F. msey Cas To Chattanooga N #8 Ra

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a Falls w Opens April 10. R Gap Trail Townsend V Fighting Creek k s Porters Most of the rise is reflected in the morning lows. “We’re r 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Cataloochee Valley a Visitors Center Flat P Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto School P (closed through May 20): not getting as cold at night,” said Jim Renfro, the park’s o s Falls Laurel Falls T Falls r R r t 8 miles from I-40 (including 3 miles ill Trail Road a illi e 73 in um r s Fern Branch on a narrow gravel road). The short air quality specialist and the person in charge of collecting th bo Tr Ga w ail p Townsend r T C Trail road through the valley o ers wildlife oo Rive Maloney ra Fa re Falls F il lls ek Heritage T n viewing (including elk) and access to and managing the park’s weather data. Meigs Point ra ia l Little Carlos i d Center Trai l h Rich Mountain Road: a t Top Falls Rainbow Mount c a historic church, school and homes. Cataloochee o nu Campbell a Opens April 10. R st l PISGAH he T Elkmont Le Conte a C Falls Valley r L Overlook p e itt Alum Cave in m le p Overlook NATIONAL a R Spring wildflowers have adapted over millions of years o i Trail Charlies A t v C e n n uc r o u t u T Alum Cave Bunion nd B tt FOREST Look Rock o GSM Institute mb r u o R er G a Ro m ap Tra i a/

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ra t h in . c T He i ek R e gauges for timing blooms. Since their sole objective in r Newfound Gap Road: This paved C Lynn Camp es Co k Chimney ve Ja road is the only route over the Great C Prong Cascades Ro re creating a beautiful flower is to attract pollinators and Tops Chimney Tops Smoky Mountains. It stretches ad ek Ab Trail ra Middle Prong for 31 miles between Gatlinburg m Trail Newfound make viable seeds, timing is everything. Blooms generally s Fa Oconaluftee and Cherokee and climbs from an Heintooga/Round Bottom Road: Abrams l Abrams ls Gap T Valley Overlook Kephart elevation of 1,300’ to 5,046’ Opens May 15. r only last a few days, so flowering before the pollinators— Falls a Exit 20 Creek i l Prong (at Newfound Gap). Trail butterflies, bumblebees, moths, ants, beetles, humming- GREAT SM INS OKY OUNTA Chasteen Cades Cove M r T

k Creek Falls birds—show up can be disastrous. Visitor Center r o Smokemont F H Clingmans e ti Loop i To a n 276 n Trail t Dome Ka o Asheville o Cades Cove Loop Road: 11-mile g Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile a

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mile walk takes you to Clingmans e a d v d oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R ) Dome tower and the highest point C Paul Super, the park’s research coordinator. Caterpillars, h cles Mingo nc hi N Andrews Bald in the Smokies (6,643’). g ra ve ATIO i Falls B r NAL PARK B o Opens March 30. which dine voraciously on tree leaves, appear to be like- n ot so m Parkw ar o Mingus e ay Maggie P t idg Dellwood

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a CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION Picnic Areas i

l Hazel Creek 441 Twentymile Restrooms are available March and April and have no idea how warm it is in Calderwood Loop Trail Trail Cherokee Museum Camping Wolf l at visitor centers, Cades Cove and CHEROKEE Lake i Loop the Southern Appalachian Mountains. “They rely on Ridge a Indian r CHEROKEE T Smokemont campgrounds, Cades Cove, Trail Trail e Creek Falls Deals il Deep Creek and Greenbrier picnic areas, Nature Trails WAYNESVILLE changing day length to trigger their migration,” Super tym Juney Whank Falls NATIONAL Gap Twen Newfound Gap and Great Smoky Mountains Tom Branch Falls 19 Fontana Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets are La Major Hwys said. Consequently, the synchronization of trees, bugs, Dam ke Falls Trail Deep Creek Lake Cascade F also available at Rainbow Falls, Alum Cave, vie Cheoah ontana w and birds is being disrupted. Lak Abrams Falls and Clingmans Dome trailheads. Dr Major Roads E e E SS A 441 E IN N L BRYSON Paved Roads N O E R Earlier springs also mean trees are flowering earlier, T A CITY C Gravel Roads A Swain County H FONTANA pp 28 making them vulnerable to ‘late’ frosts. Such miscues T al Visitor Center B R ac 74 l O VILLAGE h Trails u N ia e

n can greatly diminish the harvests of cherries, nuts, and

d Spring Auto Tours

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JOYCE T e r KILMER - SLICKROCK a P i 23 Great Mountain Views a WILDERNESS AREA l r 74 k 129 w Wildflowers ay Santeetlah Lake SYLVA

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JOYCE T e r KILMER - SLICKROCK a P i 23 Great Mountain Views a WILDERNESS AREA l r 74 k 129 w Wildflowers ay Santeetlah Lake SYLVA

These hefty salamanders grow up If you happen upon two small shiny to 16 inches long. Because they beetles rolling a ball of dung, be ame fr spend all of their time in Smokies assured it’s really nothing out c om streams, they have bushy external of the ordinary. Dung beetles it gills that allow them to breathe routinely gather dung from deer underwater. During the day they and other animals into a ball, roll hide in submerged burrows; at it around to get it nice and packed the night they come out to feed on fish, down, then bury it and lay eggs in crayfish, snails, frogs, and other it. This way the young have plenty salamanders. to eat when they hatch. smokies! They’re out there— Eastern Slugs Slender Glass slimy, wiggly, spooky Lizard creatures that seem like your worst nightmare. But these seemingly-unfriendly organisms all play a role in the great diversity of the Smokies. Learn about a few here…after you recover from the heebie-jeebies. These weird animals look like Slugs are simply snails without snakes but are actually lizards shells. They secrete a generous with no legs. They have extremely amount of slime, which helps them long tails that break off very ooze along the forest floor. Their Illustrations by Lisa Horstman easily (hence the name “glass favorite foods are leaves, roots, lizard”). It’s rare to see them flowers, fruits, and fungi. Look for because they spend most of their mushrooms with slime trails and time in rodent burrows. When they bites eaten from them. Some birds come out, they hunt spiders, snails, eat slugs, but most think they’re bird eggs, snakes, and more. just too slimy.

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 10 IF YOU LOVE THE SMOKIES Join the park’s partners in helping to protect this place for ourselves and future generations educational sessions led by experts tion includes support for restoring and DLiA celebrated the 20th year of the For eons, the Great Smoky Mountains invite you to immerse yourself in maintaining historic log homes, barns, ATBI in 2018 with the announcement have stood watch over the Southern the sights, sounds, and smells of outbuildings, churches, schools, and of a major milestone—the 1,000th new Appalachian region. The park depends the outdoors and learn more about gristmills. Become a Friend by visiting species to science! To date, DLiA has on the four primary nonprofit part- nature and history in Great Smoky FriendsOfTheSmokies.org or calling helped add more than 10,000 species ners described here, as well as on 2,800 Mountains National Park. Check 800.845.5665. to the inventory of life in the park. park volunteers who help its staff meet out GSMA’s Branch Out events at Learn more at DLiA.org or by calling the needs of 12.5 million visitors and SmokiesInformation.org/events. 865.430.4757. 522,000 acres of unexploited resources. Discover Life Join today by visiting SmokiesInformation. In addition to these partners, the park in America org, or call us at 888.898.9102, ext. 257. fosters collaborative relationships with The Smokies Tremont its gateway communities, universities, have long been Born out of a and other service and learning groups. Friends of the renowned for their rich variety of life. need for residen- Smokies Knowing what creatures reside here tial education Great Smoky Mountains Friends of the helps the National Park Service better programs in the me f Association Smokies assists protect the Smokies against threats park, Great Smoky Mountains Insti- ca ro Since 1953, the nonprofit Great Smoky the National Park like air pollution, wildfire, habitat tute at Tremont has offered student t m Mountains Association has supported Service in its fragmentation, invasive species, and and adult programs that promote a i the educational, scientific, and historical mission to preserve climate change. connection to nature for more than 50 preservation efforts of the NPS by oper- and protect Great Discover Life in America is the years. Up to 6,000 students and adults ating the park’s educational bookstores, Smoky Mountains National Park by nonprofit partner that was launched annually attend workshops, camps, and publishing books and other media about raising funds and public awareness and in 1998 to manage the All Taxa Biodi- school programs at the institute that the park’s natural and providing volunteers for needed projects. versity Inventory (ATBI), an effort to are designed to promote curiosity and cultural resources, and Since it was founded in 1993, sup- identify and learn about every variety of inspire learning. contributing cash porters of Friends have contributed more plant and animal in the park. The orga- Adult workshops include birding, donations to support than $68 million to meet park needs. nization works with leading biologists backpacking, community science, pro- park programs. Over Examples of programs and projects from around the globe to conduct this fessional and teacher development, pho- the years, GSMA has include: massive inventory. tography, and a naturalist certification contributed over $44 • Rehabilitation of the most impacted Volunteers and interns become program. Summer camps provide youth million to assist with living trails through Trails Forever ‘citizen scientists’ who help with and their families opportunities to spend history demonstrations, saving hemlock • Forest conservation and wildlife DLiA’s work. These participants get an six to 11 days exploring the national trees, wildlife and resource education management insider’s look at the park, as well park and all of its wonders. Fees include internships, construction of visitor • Air quality monitoring as firsthand knowledge of biology, meals, lodging, and most equipment. centers and the Collections Preservation • Facility improvements and visitor field science, and laboratory practices. Contact 865.448.6709 or visit Center, and much more. amenities Funding comes from donations by GSMIT.org to learn more! Association members receive a num- • Historic structures rehabilitation individuals and institutions. ber of benefits to keep them informed • Cultural experiences and special events about special events in the park and • Search and rescue program support issues affecting the Smokies: and equipment GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! • Subscription to the semi-annual • K-12 educational programs Get Rooted in the Smokies! Name(s) ______full-color magazine Smokies Life Programs like Parks as Classrooms, q ______• Digital access to the award-winning which serves approximately 20,000 Acorn (youth) Membership $15 quarterly park newspaper, Smokies students every year, provide educational q Buckeye Annual Membership $35 Address ______Guide, and the association’s Cub experiences that help foster a love for q Chestnut Annual Membership $100 ______Report e-newsletter nature and inform the next generation q Dogwood Membership $200 • A 15-20% discount on books, mu- of park supporters. Management and re- Email (for Cub Report) ______sic, gifts, and other products sold at search programs are critical in maintain- q Hemlock Lifetime Membership $1,000 ______payable in 5 installments park visitor centers and at GSMA’s ing a healthy environment for the park’s Phone # ______web store abundant wildlife—bears, elk, native q Lookout League Business Memberships Please include your check with this form. • Special GSMA group hikes, brook trout, and much more. $250-$10,000 Mail to: GSMA, P.O. Box 130, backpacking excursions, and Friends’ commitment to preserva- Gatlinburg, TN 37738

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 11 Black Bears Emerge at a Sensitive Time Bears struggle in the search for the first new foods of the season, despite the trend of warmer, earlier springs

pring is a time of awakening in the Smokies. The earliest Sephemeral wildflowers begin to break through a soggy carpet of leaf litter. Bright new blooms fill the branches of red maples, serviceberries, and redbuds. Insects, bats, and songbirds follow soon after, and with them emerges the black bear—hungry after weathering a long winter of dormancy. Photos by Bill Lea “The first weeks out of the den are the hardest,” said NPS Supervisory Wildlife Biologist Bill Stiver. “It’s too early in the year for most of the bears’ favorite foods like berries and acorns to be available, so the bears just eat whatever they can find. That might be grasses, seeds, tree buds, roots, or flowers.”

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 12 Ways you can help reduce the potential for human–bear conflict and make sure the park is a safe place for people and bears too:

• Maintain a minimum 50-yard distance from all black bears and elk in the park. • Do not feed a bear or any wild animal in the park. Doing so is a federal offense. • Practice Leave No Trace principles by packing out any food or waste brought into the park. • If a bear approaches you or your party, Cubs and mother bears need their space. When people try to do not run—back away slowly and make approach a bear family for a closer look or to take a picture, plenty of noise. it really stresses the bears. RULE OF THUMB FOR WILDLIFE VIEWING Although springs have been trending may be actively foraging along roads warmer and arriving significantly earlier and trails in the park. in recent years, the desperate need to “Cubs and mother bears need their find the first new foods of the season space,” said Stiver. “When people try remains a serious one for black bears. to approach a bear family for a closer “Female black bears give birth to look or to take a picture, it really stress- an average of one to four cubs every es the bears.” two years, and cubs generally emerge in In some instances, bear cubs may late March or early April,” said Stiver. appear to be abandoned, but visitors “Brand new cubs born in February can should still keep their distance—for be tiny, weighing just a few pounds the bears’ sake and their own. “Though when they leave the den.” some people may find it alarming, After burning their precious fat mother bears often leave their cubs to go reserves over the winter, along with the forage,” Stiver said. “Mom is eating for added energy expenses that come with herself and the cubs. Her offspring are When viewing wildlife, hold your arm out straight bearing young, female black bears have likely to continue nursing through their and, if you can’t cover the animal in your line of good reason to be hungry, and many first year.” sight with your thumb, you’re too close!

Graphic by Emma Dufort

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 13 In the Park? Pack it Out Littering puts strain on park services and wildlife

handout. It doesn’t take too many food items to get that process started.” When this pattern begins to emerge, Stiver and other park service employees are forced to intervene. “Depending on the severity of the incident, we might chase a bear away with small explo- sives, trap the bear and relocate it, or, in extreme cases, euthanize the animal,” said Stiver. “Whichever way it goes, rangers take no pleasure implementing these aggressive management measures.” upervisory Wildlife Biologist Bill Black bears have a remarkably keen SStiver has worked in Great Smoky sense of smell and the ability to topple Mountains National Park managing heavy receptacles for the promise of food. black bears, elk, hogs, river otters, and Since mother bears pass on knowledge of more for nearly 30 years. But over the reliable food sources to their cubs, a single Above: Volunteer Bill Gober can last decade of his tenure, Stiver has been source of unsecured food waste can create talk trash, and he has seen it all after forced to respond to one issue affecting a cascade of negative consequences for nine years of picking up trash along Smokies wildlife with alarming regu- generations of black bears and people, too. trails with the park’s Litter Patrol. larity: trash on trails. The park service has made a You can help protect wildlife by “Around Cades Cove, Alum Cave, concerted effort to reduce the potential packing out all trash and food waste and by using the park’s bear-proof Grotto Falls, Laurel Falls, Abrams Falls, for conflict by repairing existing food- dumpsters. Right: Signage at pop- Ramsey Cascades—on a lot of these storage cables, installing more secure ular trailheads educates visitors on shorter destination hikes, trash keeps dumpsters where appropriate, and the dangers of littering food waste, ending up on those trails,” said Stiver. regularly clearing picnic areas of litter but it doesn’t completely stem the “We’re not pointing the finger at anyone left behind at dusk. Still, with the park epidemic. Photos by Valerie Polk so much as asking people to help us with already generating nearly 600 tons of this. We need everybody.” waste per year, a sustainable solution will have to include greater public awareness crumbs may seem harmless, it is A bear of a problem of Leave No Trace ethics. often these very items that are the Litter along roads and trails disrupts most problematic when it comes the natural foraging behavior of a wide On litter patrol to attracting wildlife to dangerous variety of wildlife—including red squir- “At some point you just take ownership, roadways and trails. rels, raccoons, and coyotes. For black and it becomes personal,” said Bill Gober, After years of walking the trails, bears in particular, the consequences a weekly volunteer and ‘rover’ on Laurel Gober has become intimately can be dire. Food-conditioned behavior Falls Trail who picks up trash along with familiar with the problem. His effectively halves black bears’ average life a small army of Litter Patrol volunteers at regular beat at Laurel Falls is one expectancy. work across the park. “This is my ninth of the most popular trails in the “We’ve had issues particularly with year doing it, and I feel personally respon- park, and unfortunately this has also bears getting into people-food and sible for the condition of that trail when helped make the area a hotspot for becoming a danger to people and prop- I leave. When those bears roam, we want human–bear conflict. erty,” said Stiver. “The bear may begin them to find nothing. If they find food, “The litter is increasing with foraging in picnic areas or hanging out they’re coming back.” visitation—that’s to be expected— beside the road. In some cases, bears While biodegradable food waste and it tends to be within the first may even approach people hoping for a like apple cores, banana peels, or cookie mile of most trails,” said Gober. “It

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 14 Sources: “Hikers: Eat Bananas – but Take Your Skins Home.” theguardian.com “How Long Does Your Litter Live?” slocounty.ca.gov “‘Organic’ Litter is Not Copacetic.” hcn.org “Recycling Mysteries: Candy Wrappers.” earth911.com

Even a soft, mushy apple Citrus contains a natural Banana peels can take Cigarette filters contain Most candy wrappers (and core can linger on the insecticide, which means around 2 years to cellulose acetate, a granola bar wrappers) landscape for as long as 2 that ants won’t touch completely rot—the thick form of plastic. These are made of a plastic and months. That’s more than discarded orange peels. skin protects the inner fruit abundantly littered items aluminum combo that enough time to draw wildlife They can take 6 months from the cold and resists remain intact for 5 to 10 won’t break down for 10 to places they shouldn’t be. or longer to break down. decomposing quickly. years on average. to 20 years.

also tends to change with the season, but “Litter Patrol is a great volunteer cigarette butts, juice boxes, water bottles, program, whether you’re here for a week and candy wrappers are always there. I’ve or just for a day or two,” said Sher- actually seen one of our female bears eat idan Roberts, volunteer coordinator at While biodegradable food waste like apple an entire McDonald’s bag right in front of GSMNP. “Particularly if you have kids, me before I could get to it.” or if you’d just like to get out and do cores, banana peels or cookie crumbs may As disturbing as that experience was, something, it’s a good opportunity to seem harmless, it is often these very items Gober does see hope for a sea change in give back to the park, and it’s easy to attitudes through his contact with other jump in and do.” that are the most problematic when it comes visitors and volunteers on the trail. “I You can help protect wildlife by would just encourage others to bring a packing out all trash and food waste to attracting wildlife to dangerous roadways bag or two with them when they go,” while in the park. To lend a hand with and trails. said Gober. “It always helps if we can other volunteers or enroll in opportu- keep it minimal, and maybe more folks nities like the Litter Patrol program, see will think twice next time.” nps.gov/grsm/getinvolved for details.

Smokies Guide Spring 2020 • 15 VISITOR INFORMATION For more information, go to nps.gov/grsm

Primary Alt. Rt. Secondary Alt. Rt.

Heintooga/ Round Bottom Road

) vehicles

(closed to motor

SWAIN COUNTY VISITOR CENTER

Information Emergencies Hospitals Haywood County All-access Avoid the fine General park info: For emergencies after hours: Le Conte/Sevier County 828.456.7311 Restrooms at park visitor Picking or digging plants is prohibited in the park. 865.436.1200 • nps.gov/grsm Park Headquarters 865.446.7000 Waynesville, NC centers (Cades Cove, Backcountry information: Middle Creek Rd., Oconaluftee and Sugarlands) Persons feeding wildlife 865.436.9171 Swain County are subject to a $5,000 fine. 865.436.1297 Sevierville, TN are fully accessible. 828.488.2155 Pets are only permitted smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Sugarlands Valley all-access 828.497.4131 Blount Memorial Bryson City, NC on the Gatlinburg and To order maps and guides: 865.983.7211 nature trail is on Newfound Oconaluftee River trails, 865.436.7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police U.S. 321, Maryville, TN Gap Road just south of which allow dogs on SmokiesInformation.org 865.436.5181 Sugarlands Visitor Center. a leash.