THIRD QUARTER 2016 FREE “Service to others is the rent you pay for your room here on earth.” Muhammad Ali The Last Prehistoric Buffalo Hunt • Big Bend Eats • Chandler Ranch • Folkways Voices of the Big Bend • Little Explorers in the Big Bend • Photo Essay • Poetry • Stylle Read Coming soon... A Flicker of the Soul LYRICS, STORIES AND WRITINGS

A new book by Ken Whitley Available at Front Street Books, Paisano Hotel and Amazon Books

Cenizo 2 Third Quarter 2016 DAVID LOREN BASS

El Polvo Adobe, 2016 Oil on Canvas 12 x 16 Inches Paintings of New Mexico and Greasewood Gallery V-6 Collection Hand Artes Gallery El Paisano Hotel Gage Hotel Truchas, NM Marfa, TX Marathon, TX davidlorenbass.com • [email protected]

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 3 STYLLE READ Story and photos by Rani Birchfield

exas native Stylle Read is known Murals are usually agreements between the throughout the state for his murals property owner and an artist. Payment is ren- Tdepicting local history and lore. His pic- dered to the artist, and the art itself is oftentimes torial histories grace the insides and outsides of licensed and owned. Street art is more demo- commercial buildings across the South and the cratic – art for the public not limited to galleries Southwest, but he’s most prolific in Texas. and unable to be “owned” by just one person, Read has become one of our documentarians, although murals have the same overall effect in illustrating our past and present on oversized terms of who can view them. Graffiti is typical- venues. ly spray art done without permission from the Painted walls go by many names, the most building owners. The basic difference is permis- common being murals, street art or graffiti. sion – with permission, it’s art; without, it’s van- What’s the difference? Perhaps it’s money and dalism. (There are, of course, gray areas – think intent, but Wikipedia (yes, Wikipedia because Banksy and Shepard Fairey.) it’s simple and clear) defines Street Art as: Humankind has been painting on walls for “visual art created in public locations, usually unsanctioned artwork executed outside of the context of continued on page 25 traditional art venues.”

Cenizo 4 Third Quarter 2016 Table of Contents

4 Rani Birchfield Stylle Read 15 Johanna Nelson Salsa Stories

6 Carolyn Brown Zniewski Cenizo Notes 16 Bill Smith Cyrus M. “Charlie” Wilson Danielle Gallo Carol Townsend Photo Essay 8 Howdy-Nocoma Fowler The Last Prehistoric Buffalo Hunt 20 Jim Glendinning Voices of the Big Bend 9 Maya Brown Zniewski Folkways 22 Danielle Gallo Little Explorers in the Big Bend Julia Kennedy Kirkland Poetry Larry D. Thomas 27 Carolyn Brown Zniewski Big Bend Eats Jim Wilson Danielle Gallo Trans-Pecos Trivia 12 Jeremy Gonzalez Rebirth of Chandler Ranch

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 5 HARPER’S Cenizo Journal Hardware Volume 8 Number 3 CONTRIBUTORS Presidio’s favorite hardware store for almost a century Rani Birchfield is a writer and traveler West Texas fiercely. She’s currently working tools • plumbing supplies • home & garden experiencing the small-town, big-sky life of the on a book of Salsa Stories. e-mail: salsastories@ Big Bend region. She’s a coffee addict and gmail.com beach lover who’s coming to face the reality Monday - Saturday 7:30 am to 6 pm Carol Townsend With 35 years of experi- that normal days don’t always consist of such 701 O’Reilly Street • Presidio • 432-229-3256 ence, Carol’s portfolio is filled with the flora things. Ok, maybe the coffee. free to email and fauna of Big Bend. She sells her work on- her and tell her a story. e-mail: rbirchfield44@ line or at the small photo and crafts shop she hotmail.com shares with her daughter, Bonnie: Cactus Julia Kennedy Kirkland is a writer, poet, Flower on Hwy 90, in Marathon. e-mail: and fifth generation Texan. She lives in Austin [email protected]. with her husband and four children, but much Larry D. Thomas is a member of the Texas of the dust of West Texas - where her folks live Institute of Letters and was privileged to serve - has found its way into her soul. e-mail: as the 2008 Texas Poet Laureate. His Larry D. [email protected] Thomas: New and Selected Poems (TCU Press, Howdy-Nocona Fowler was born and 2008) was a semi-finalist for the National Book raised on the Klamath Indian Reservation in Award. e-mail: [email protected] SE Oregon. He has contributed to The Rocky Jim Wilson is a 66-year-old retired Mountain News, Western Horseman, Mules and More Veterinarian living in the country between and Cowboy Magazine. e-mail: [email protected] Austin and Houston. He grew up in Lobo Danielle Gallo is a writer who is proud to be Valley south of Van Horn. He began writing WHITE CRANE the editor of the Cenizo Journal. She came to the poetry in 2000. He has published five books CUPUNCTURE area in 2002 and currently lives in Marathon of poetry. He loves the Big Bend country A with her family. e-mail: [email protected] more than any place on earth. e-mail: jwil- LINIC [email protected] C Jim Glendinning, an Oxford-educated Scot, lives in Alpine. The story of his travels, Footloose Carolyn Brown Zniewski started her Acupuncture Scot, has just been published, as has Legendary publishing career at age nine, publishing a • Locals of the Big Bend & Davis Mountains for one- page neighborhood newsletter called The Herbs Arcadia Press. e-mail: [email protected] Circle. From 1992 – 2006 she wrote a recipe • column for two neighborhood newspapers in Jeremy Gonzalez is a staff reporter for the Bodywork Minneapolis, MN. In 2013, she started Fort Stockton Pioneer. He always has a cup Eve’s Garden publishing the Cenizo. e-mail: publisher@cenizo- of coffee on his desk. His wife is his cure for Bed and journal.com Breakfast writer’s block, and if he were an animal, he Shanna Cowell, L.Ac. would be a chameleon: colorful, adaptive and Maya Brown Zniewski is an herbalist and NEW LOCATION: chill. e-mail: [email protected] soapmaker who enjoys frequent visits to the 432.386.4165 Big Bend area. Her handmade salves, soaps 303 E. Sul Ross • Alpine C. W. (Bill) Smith is a writer, historian, and and tinctures are available at her website, 432.837.3225 Ave C & N 3rd • Marathon, TX curator of the Terrell County Memorial mayamade.net. e-mail: mayamadeapothecary [email protected] Museum. e-mail: [email protected] Mon. - Fri. by appointment www.evesgarden.org @gmail.com Johanna Nelson was born in far East Texas Cover: Road Rules by Billy L. Keen at Brothers and moved to far West Texas when she was Fine Art in Marfa. Photograph by Rani 19. Currently she lives a bit north up the Rio Birchfield. AYN FOUNDATION Grande in Santa Fe, NM. She paints, works in (DAS MAXIMUM) economic development, cooks salsa and misses Copy editor: Rani Birchfield

ANDY WARHOL MARIA ZERRES SUBSCRIPTIONS “The Last Supper” “September Eleven” Cenizo Journal will be mailed direct for $25.00 annually. Make checks payable to: Cenizo Journal, P.O. Box 2025, Alpine, Texas 79831, or through Paypal at cenizojournal.com Brite Building 107-109 N Highland, Marfa SUBMISSION Open weekends noon to 5 pm Deadline for advertising and editorial for the Fourth Quarter 2016 issue: August 15, 2016. For hours, please call: 432.729.3315 Art, photographic and literary works may be e-mailed to the Editor. or visit www.aynfoundation.com For advertising rates or to place an ad, contact: [email protected]

Cenizo 6 Third Quarter 2016 Cenizo Notes Feel better when you by Carolyn Brown Zniewski, publisher and Danielle Gallo, editor learn to move better! Guild Certified Feldenkrais Practitioner t’s summer and love summer in the Certified Movement Intelligence Teacher/Trainer July 4th has always Big Bend, when you Certified Massage Therapist BCTMB, TX License # MT 121615 Ibeen the most sum- Istep outside and you Serving Brewster, Presidio and Jeff Davis Counties mer of holidays. It is can smell the caliche the day each year our baking. I love the blast [email protected] country has set aside to of radiation off the 107 N. 6th, Alpine • 832-314-8103 celebrate the scrappy white clay, how the heat beginnings of a democ- awakens every cell of racy. skin, the sunburns on My history profes- the underside of my sor, who taught nostrils, the shrunken American Colonial History, used to say old tiles of desert I can lift and crumble between Tom Jefferson, Ben Franklin and Jamie my fingers. Running a hand over the crackling Hamilton didn’t know what they were really bark of a juniper in July. Sipping water spiked getting us all into when they wrote and with pink salt from a plastic milk jug gone all signed that Declaration of Independence. pliable in the heat, the water sometimes too hot They just wanted to be in charge of their own against my lips. The way small creatures sound affairs. Rather like a teenager telling his mom like rampaging buffalo in the dry grasses. and dad, “I’m 18 now and you can’t tell me Now that I have little ones, I find myself what to do. I’ll make my own decisions.” insisting on all the things I used to scorn. Hats, Now we’ve traveled 240 years down the long sleeves, sunglasses, sunscreen. Siesta in road and it turns out there is a lot more to the shade until evening, morning expeditions running our country than Tom and Ben and cut short by ten-thirty, drinking from jelly jars Jamie could have ever imagined. This sum- (do you know what’s IN milk jug plastic?!), mer will likely be one that goes down in the checking their temperature, exhorting them to history books. Likely as not, everyone here in slow down, slow down, slow down. Watch for Big Bend has had a few thoughts about the wasps. Let me check for snakes. Don’t touch politics of it all. This little journal is a quiet that tree, there might be spiders or scorpions eddy that you can sit back and enjoy without or evil baby-kidnapping gnomes. I have the clamor of worldly politics. Hop into your become a crazy person. hammock, read the Cenizo and de-stress. This issue of Cenizo is all about getting out That’s what we are here for. and exploring. From the pioneering founder of Sanderson to the newly-revitalized Chandler Ranch, Big Bend history is all about getting dirty and preserving a sense of wonder. Visit your Come with us and meet Stylle Read, who cap- tures the sweeping landscapes and iconoclast local library residents of the Trans-Pecos in murals fit for for great Texas; plan a trip with your family that will challenge and inspire you and your little ones; summer reads! stop for the supreme cooling of a local can- taloupe and meet the stories behind the salsa. We’re pleased to have you along. Needleworks, Etc. Published by Cenizo Journal LLC P.O. Box 2025, Alpine, Texas 79831 www.cenizojournal.com Ladies Fine Clothing Peggy Walker, Owner CENIZO JOURNAL STAFF Flax Brighton Tribal Double D PUBLISHER EDITOR ADVERTISING ˜ And other s˜peciality brands˜ Carolyn Brown Zniewski Danielle Gallo Rani Birchfield [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 121 West Holland • Alpine • 432/837-3085 BUSINESS MANAGER WEB MANAGER DESIGN/PRODUCTION 120 South Cedar • Pecos • 432/445-9313 Lou Pauls Maya Brown Zniewski Wendy Lynn Wright M-F 10 am ‘til 6 pm • Sat. 10 am ‘til 4 pm [email protected] mayamadeapothecary @gmail.com [email protected]

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 7 The Last Prehistoric Buffalo Hunt by Howdy-Nocona Fowler

one at the and touch her with my walking stick, anteed kickers and they would attack if B o n f i r e kind of like counting coup. Herefords cornered. One day I spotted my great- S h e l t e r were a good breed to start with, since est challenge yet: a big massive Brangus l o c a t e d they ain’t much smarter than a sheep. bull. I did not hesitate to start stalking n e a r So I put the sneak on old bossy and him, and because he was in a wide- Langtry, was doing pretty well, until for some open flat with no cover, it made my T e x a s . reason she just walked away. I knew hunt even tougher, a real challenge. I By Ted Lee Eubanks, Jr./FERMATA Inc I’m talk- she hadn’t seen me, but being on foot crawled on my belly for about 75 yards, ing about there was no use trying to catch up to stopping each time that he lifted his d o w n - her again. My near success made me head to chew. It took forever to sneak ison antiquus, or ancient buffalo, and-dirty hunts: primitive men on foot even more determined, and soon I was up on that big son-of-a-gun. Then, were big, 25 percent bigger than with sticks and rocks trying to harvest searching for another unsuspecting after what seemed a lifetime, I was Ba modern American buffalo. the meat from an animal the size of a bovine. there: ready to ‘spear’ that massive The bulls weighed in excess of 3,500 modern three-quarter-ton pickup It didn’t take me long to get this ‘prehistoric buffalo.’ Grasping my pounds and were ill-tempered and truck. Just three or four men with sim- ‘buffalo hunting’ down. Soon I had spear (walking stick) I made my ‘kill.’ dangerous – you did not trifle with ple clubs, maybe an atlatl, and home- tagged eight or ten head of fake That’s when ALL HELL BROKE them. From 18,000 to 10,000 B.C. made spears not much longer than the buffalo with my walking stick over LOOSE! The split second I bumped these ancient buffalo roamed in abun- average hippie’s walking stick, hunting a week’s time. One day I snuck up him with that walking stick, he not dant large herds, throughout West and killing an Antiquus bison. Add to behind a big calf on the edge of an only jumped and kicked that walking Texas and Big Bend country before the mix a mammal that is not too keen arroyo, creeping up to him on my belly stick out of my hand and sent it flying, they became extinct, ca. 10,000. Back on ‘donating’ its hide and meat to the through the grass and weeds. I reached but he whirled around and attacked then you didn’t just drive to your local tribal cause and it was a very danger- out with my walking stick and pushed me. He had me pinned to the ground. store to get meat; you had to hunt it ous mixture. Men could be crippled on his hip. He slowly turned towards He blew snot all over the front of my down and get it yourself. for life or worse yet, end up dead with the pressure and as he did, he acci- shirt as I rolled to get away, bellowing As a kid growing up, I was fascinat- their families dying from starvation. It dently stepped off the edge of the loudly right in my face. The whole ed by the scientific art renderings done took tough men to step up to such a arroyo. In slow motion he fell into the time he had his front feet placed one by primitive man regarding hunting challenge – tough men driven by arroyo, slid down the wall and landed on each side of my head, throwing dust these huge beasts with just rocks, clubs hunger. in the soft sand below, unhurt. I was all over me as he raked his hornless and spears. Having worked with and Years ago I was getting ready for a not sure who was more surprised by head all over my upper body. As grown up around modern buffalo all of upcoming trip down into old Mexico, the outcome, the cow or myself, as he quickly as it began it was over. He spun my life, I thought I had a pretty good so I started walking in the Sacramento galloped off in surprise. The one thing away and took off across that flat in a understanding of what those early Mountains to get into shape. One day I had to be careful of when I touched dead run! hunters were up against. I’m not talk- while walking I was thinking about the most of those cattle was getting kicked. I lay there for what seemed like for- ing about the gallant Plains Indian gal- prehistoric buffalo hunters and I came Most cows would jump and kick at my ever, taking an extensive inventory of loping across the prairie on his favorite up with a great idea to have my own walking stick or me when I touched my body parts. It was then and there I buffalo horse in pursuit of modern buf- bison hunt. Although no buffalo were them and counted a coup. changed my vocation from ‘Prehistoric falo for his evening meal. Nor do I around, there were plenty of range cat- In a very short time I graduated Buffalo Hunter’ to Team Roper. I’m mean the highly-organized tribal hunts tle!! Soon I spied my first victim, a from slow dumb Herefords to the more headed to the store to BUY some surrounding and driving herds over Hereford cow munching on grass. My alert and dangerous breeds like Angus steaks; if ya’ll need me to pick some- the now-famous buffalo jumps, like the plan was simple: sneak up on that cow and Brangus cattle. These were guar- thing up for ya, let me know.

Cenizo 8 Third Quarter 2016 Folkways Story and photograph by Maya Brown Zniewski

GOLDENROD

lorious Goldenrod! You six weeks. Strain the tincture, reserv- know those beautiful golden ing the liquid and composting the Gflowers that grow by the side flower parts. A serving is a teaspoon of the road, in ditches and along the (30-40 drops) two or three times a fence line? You do! You’ve seen day. them! That is Goldenrod. If you’ve You can make a Goldenrod tea heard disparaging things about love- by harvesting the upper third of ly Goldenrod, that she’s a waste Goldenrod, stalks, leaves and flow- weed or she causes seasonal allergies, ers, chopping them up a little and you have heard lies. She is a beauti- pouring water, just off the boil, over ful and useful flower. I have never a small handful of the tops of met anyone who is allergic to Goldenrod. Wait a few minutes, Goldenrod. It is a member of the strain and enjoy! For a therapeutic aster family of plants, which includes effect drink three cups a day. For daisies. Goldenrod has very small, acute situations of ragweed or other very sticky pollen and as we all know pollen-induced respiratory reactions, it’s the pollen that generally causes drink five cups a day. allergies. Goldenrod pollen sticks You can make Goldenrod tea as a very, very well to bees and to itself sweet tea, hot or cold. Try making but does not float or fly in the air as Goldenrod tea popsicles: Add a little other kinds of pollen do, so you are orange or cherry juice or make fresh highly unlikely to be allergic to it. lemonade or limeade, for flavor, just There is another plant that grows as long as you are enjoying right next to her, without those Goldenrod. I make Goldenrod beautiful golden blooms, called honey by infusing the flowers in Ragweed. Many people are allergic honey and smearing on toast or on a to that. chicken to roast. Goldenrod’s Latin name is solida- Goldenrod is noted especially for go. There are hundreds of kinds of healing respiratory issues like infec- solidago, including common names tions, coughs and colds. (Have you like winter and Canadian. ever noticed how many plants are Goldenrod grows all over North noted for healing lung issues like America and in Europe. She is coughs and colds? I have a theory as grown in yards all over the world. As to why, but that is for another day, Goldenrod increases urinary flow, not use metal when infusing the if to counteract her reputation as a another discussion.) Goldenrod is helping your body rid itself of these vinegar; metal reacts with the acid seasonal allergen, Goldenrod is used good for healing skin issues like small issues. Goldenrod is also very helpful and makes vinegar go all wonky. to fight seasonal allergies: as a tea, a cuts, bug bites and rashes. So make with liver, vascular, and circulatory After a couple of weeks strain out the tincture, in a popsicle, as a salad that tea, let it cool, place a clean health. plant parts and use the vinegar in a green or as a vinegar. In earlier cloth in the tea, squeeze it out and In addition to Goldenrod as a tea salad dressing or as you would all columns I’ve talked about how to place on the bug bite or rashy area or tincture, she makes a wonderful your yummy vinegars. She makes a make tinctures. Here is a quick until the cloth becomes warm. Soak salad ingredient, too. Just pluck the great addition to your garden as well recap: cut the top third of the above- the cloth in the cooled tea again. fresh, young leaves and add to your and is a favorite of honeybees. The ground plant, stuff the chopped You do not need to make fresh tea favorite salad. next time you are headed out walk- Goldenrod in a glass jar with about every time. Have you considered herbal vine- ing and spy those happy bright flow- one ounce of the plant to five ounces Goldenrod in tea or tincture form gars lately? You can add clean, cut ers of Goldenrod, do not disparage of hard liquor (vodka or whiskey is also helps with intestinal problems up Goldenrod roots, flowers, leaves her, but love her instead. great), put a lid on the jar. Let set for like ulcers, or urinary tract problems. and stalks to apple cider vinegar. Do

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 9 poetry Julia Kennedy Kirkland, Larry D. Thomas and Jim Wilson

Landscape of My Father The Tinaja

He smiled then, knowing Nestled there were clouds snagged in his hair, in the ancient, slate mountain streams reflected in his eyes, shrine-like rock desert grit silted between his toes. of Hancock Hill, Rocky crags formed in the rifts of his knuckles, it sparkles the hoof beats of a stag echoed in his pulse, a blue-gold arid spread wide across his heart, in the primeval Javelinas and the harsh cry of all creation sounded darkness. a wild orchestra in his soul. Is it the lost Tusks This was his salvation. silver coin glint in starlight This, his benediction. of a god? like shards This, his home. of sun-bleached . Or the stars, Swollen banished by Julia Kennedy Kirkland from the cosmos, by the presence assembling of feral hogs, in their secret, the herd’s passage down the arroyo rock-solid will jar the darkness sanctuary and dropping with a distant rumble, to their knees, loudening for worship? as it descends the shuddering flanks of Hancock Hill, by Larry D. Thomas raging like a black flash flood to churn the stone- still pondering of the water.

by Larry D. Thomas

Cenizo 10 Third Quarter 2016 Crawling Out From Under Partly Cloudy

Outside the tempest storms—wild West Texas: Thunder and lightning, wind and rain, Pea size hail, ball size hail, size hail, And TV touted tornado.

After a forever feeling— Angry attack of the elements is repelled. Sprinkling straggler raindrops Pepper peeled, ragged roof remains. Final rolling thunder-guns Fire in the distance.

Is it over for the night? Annihilation Sam will tell you on KTAB 32 After a word from our sponsor, I smashed them flat. If you still have electricity Sixteen, single family homes If you still have a house Built and cared for by single moms. If you’re still alive. Bulldozed with the children in them Now truly! Our favoring God choice Off the face of the earth Again has regained control. No trace remains. Preserving our and His Little pseudo-religious community No strip retail plans Save a sacrificial bit of sinful materialism. No high rise condos coming, We indeed praise the grace of Jesus. They were just ugly.

Red earth, dirt dobber nests by Jim Wilson On white Austin limestone walls, They were just ugly.

They had to go. No real substantial reason Just a human being human.

by Jim Wilson

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 11 Rebirth of Chandler Ranch by Jeremy Gonzalez

spend most of my days sitting in a at the end of the 19th century. He the early ‘50s, and in 1954 a handful of Grandson and fourth-generation swivel chair, resting my elbows on married Minerva O’Bryant in 1903 guest ranch facilities faced destruction Chandler Joe A. didn’t want to see his Imy desk while I am typing up sto- and soon started ranching. In 1912 from a historic flood. With hard work family’s guest ranch disappear. He ries for the Fort Stockton Pioneer. When Charlie’s son Joe was born. Joe’s and extensive repairs, the ranch man- began the work of its restoration in the office phone rings I never know grandson, also named Joe, is the pres- aged to recover and flourish as a pop- 2014 and has reopened Chandler what great opportunities are awaiting ent owner. ular West Texas destination from the Ranch to guests. Joe says, “The new me on the other end of the line. In 1920 Charlie Chandler acquired ‘60s all the way to the ‘80s. It was well- wild is where people and nature thrive It was a typical Wednesday morn- a state permit to divert water from known for its nine-hole golf course, together.” By the end of our conversa- ing when I got a special phone call “public resources.” He became a and the ranch adopted a fun logo of a tion my coffee mug was empty, my from a nice guy named Joe A. farmer that raised grain, sugar cane, fish with sunglasses holding a golf club notes were gathered, and I took off on Chandler. The Pioneer was going to watermelons and the first and only cot- in its fin. my lunch break with a screwy “Ace press for its March 10th issue and he ton ever grown in the county. In the Unfortunately, the ranch gradually Ventura” type of smile on my face. I was telling me all about the “rebirth” ‘40s and ‘50s he divided his ranch fell off the radar as a popular destina- couldn’t contain my excitement. My of a place called Chandler Ranch. My among his children, leaving Joe and his tion. Age and health problems led Joe publisher was all for it. I immediately ears perked up when he mentioned wife Mildred with the guest ranch area and Mildred Chandler to close the called my wife and said, “Babe, start that the ranch has some of the purest that visitors can explore today. On that ranch to guests. The guest ranch packing a suitcase. We’re taking a trip water in Texas flowing through it. I land Joe built the swimming pool, remained closed to the public, and for to Chandler Ranch.” accumulated a good pile of pink post-it game room and cabin, and he cleared years it was only used for private hunt- Our journey was a scenic and easy notes as I jotted down the details he campgrounds along the creek and ing leases through permission of the two-hour drive from Fort Stockton to shared. river. Chandlers’ daughters, Charlena and the secluded guest ranch in Dryden, Charlie Chandler arrived in Texas The Chandler legacy began back in JoBeth. Texas. The approach to the guest

Cenizo 12 Third Quarter 2016 quarters is a rare desert scene of oaks glowing rectangles and just enjoy being not take this oasis for granted. Joe been sightings of mountain lions, foxes, and glistening ponds. As you take outside. There’s stunning natural Chandler often spotted me sitting in raccoons, rabbits, beavers, possums, Independence Creek Road, it leads beauty to behold.” the middle of Independence Creek, porcupines, bobcats, whitetail deer, you straight into the lodging area, We took a break to unpack our lug- filling up my outdoor flask. I probably occasional mule deer, javelina, turkey, revealing the creek for which the road gage and get settled into our luxurious looked like a , but Joe got me. The quail, ducks, river birds, armadillo, was named. The Chandler Ranch and more. There even was a rare sight- showcases the actual location where ing of a black bear that might have the Pecos River and Independence wandered up from Mexico. I’m think- Creek collide in beautiful harmony. ing it followed the aroma of Richard’s Rolling in from the flat landscape of biscuits, made from scratch and Fort Stockton, I really enjoyed the ele- smothered in country gravy. vation of the semi-arid Edwards “There is a lot to be observed and Plateau region. The ranch land is studied out here. Universities send stu- snuggled within a good scattering of dents and faculty to study the freshwa- mesas. I had three words to say when I ter springs, oak tree regeneration, first stepped out of my car: “Aahh, lizards, snakes, birds, mussels, turtles fresh air.” The atmosphere of their — everything under the sun seems to acreage is so different from any other be studied out here,” stated Joe. West Texas journey’s end. It’s The Chandlers, along with untouched by civilization. It has its Richard, gave us a special, extensive own vibe, its own feel; it is a purely pri- tour of their vast property on a vate location. Kawasaki “Mule” 4WD utility vehicle Upon arriving we were well- (comparable to a large golf cart). received and immediately greeted by Guests can roam the ranch with a everyone out on the ranch. We were Mule assigned for their stay. It was an taken to the Game Room where we all absolute honor for us to explore it with got acquainted. The Game Room is Jenny and Charlena Chandler posing with Charlie Chandler, great-grandfather to Joe A. Chandler, and a the actual Chandler siblings. “I love to the oldest structure on the property ranch employee in front of two bucks watch the large catfish swim out from and its makeover was exceptional. For underneath the big rocks. Sometimes entertainment it has pool, ping-pong, lodge, the Cafe Cabin. Honestly, it felt abounding waters were just so amaz- you can walk up to the edge and see a and foosball. There is also a telescope like we were house sitting a wealthy ing for viewing, cooling down, and big tail popping out from so many cat- available for stargazers to enjoy at home and we loved everything about even drinking. Yes, I was bold enough fish being gathered together. On still night, enhanced by near-zero light pol- it. It was fully modernized, decked out to sip on the same waters that I knew days with no wind, the water looks like lution. It has a contemporary kitchen glass, and you can see the fish perfect- equipped with brand-new appliances ly as they swim by. It’s fantastic,” Ann and excellent seating, so families can told us at a spot where she had her unwind and enjoy some home-cooked brother pull over. meals prepared by Ranch chef We visited a forested area of oaks Richard Jasso, Jr. where we found Jeff scaling up a cliff. We sat down at an outdoor table We loved Jeff; he was so unpredictable! with Joe, his sister Anne Vargas-Prada, We also visited a canopy of oak trees at and his brother-in-law, Jeff Rowes as a spot know as “Shady Oaks,” where Richard brought out a pot roast lunch, gangs of turkeys ran wild in the abun- rounds of sweet tea and rich coconut dant shade. My favorite stop was at the custard pie for dessert. Richard (who breathtaking bluffs that towered above doesn’t mind be addressed by his first the beach area at the convergence of name) is such a humble chef; he point- Independence Creek and the Pecos ed out that life slows down at Chandler River. The Chandler Ranch holds one Ranch. My wife and I quickly realized of the oldest Texas water rights and is that we were in the midst of some truly the only ranch allowed to pump water amazing people. Jeff is an intellectual out of the creek. The state monitors from Canada who is also a comedian their water and specialists have recog- by nature. Everything that came out of nized Independence Creek’s springs as his mouth was either extremely pro- producing some of the cleanest water found or extremely funny. One thing JoBeth, Charlena, Joe B. Chandler, grandfather of Joe A. Chandler, at the old wagon wheels near the in the Lone Star State. he said that really stuck with me was entrance of the ranch In the evening we all sat around the the most significant representation of dinner table to have a meal together. the ranch’s motive. with all the goods including coffee deer and other wildlife often drank. If Richard whipped up some country- “We’re not competing against other maker and mini fridge. My wife that’s not the best way to experience a style fried chicken and those scrump- regional attractions or destinations. Armanda genuinely adored this cabin. fresh water spring then I don’t know tious homemade biscuits. This is the Chandler Ranch is competing against She would often slip away to go relax what is. stuff of peace and smiles: sitting with modern technology, smart phones and there as I ran around barefoot in my The wildlife outnumbered the video games. We’re trying to get par- coonskin hat, a bit like Davy Crockett. human population on Chandler continued on page 14 ents and their kids to stop staring at I was drawn to the water and did Ranch by a long shot. There have

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 13 down. Then we sat under a spectacu- remarkable. ty of room for adventure. It is without continued from page 13 lar view of the starlit sky. Joe and I woke up just before the sun rose question the hidden treasure of all Richard lit a fire and turned up the and saw Joe and Richard up and at it. West Texas destinations. The ranch is people I just met in the morning and country tunes, and we stayed up talk- They were warming up by the fire. I hard to capture on camera. It is simply feeling like family by evening. Joe ing about everything from the history scurried over there like a fox chasing a something that you must experience Chandler rolled up his sleeves and of the ranch to the drinks that we mouse. Joe pointed to Independence hands-on. made some peach cobbler that would order from Starbucks. When my wife Creek, where dozens of deer could be We said our goodbyes and Anne have Paula Deen asking for the recipe. and I got back to the cabin, we were so seen standing in its flow. “I told you sent us off with a jug to fill with spring I have never before met a CEO that relaxed we sank into the soft sheets. deer drink out of there.” Richard was water. It was sad to pack up all my got in the kitchen and served instead of We couldn’t help but discuss the high- brewing a pot of coffee at sunrise, as he legal pads and coonskin hat and head being served. lights of our personal visit to Chandler usually does for guests who spend the for home. Whoops, I left behind my We all migrated outside, feeling as Ranch. The crystal clear water, the night. Mornings on the ranch are fresh binoculars. I guess we have to go back relaxed as vanilla ice cream melting on warm sun, the wilderness were all and peaceful. and pick them up. cobbler, and watched the sun go great, but it was the amazing hospital- After breakfast, I had the great priv- Chandler Ranch cabins and info at ity of the ilege of meeting Joe and Anne’s sweet chandlerranch.com. Updates and pic- Chandlers mother, Charlena Chandler, who gave tures of its construction can be seen at and ranch me an autographed copy of her book facebook.com/ChandlerRanchFans. staff that On Independence Creek: The Story of a Texas Their contact email is info@chandler- A magical made the Ranch. A stay at Chandler Ranch is an ranch.com. whole trip so authentic Texan experience with plen- oasis in the rustic lodging Chihuahuan camping Desert reservations of Texas required on-line at: cenizojournal.com Off the 432.229.4165 Pinto Canyon Rd chinatihotsprings.net near Ruidosa Dan and Dianna Burbach, Managers HAMMERFEST FORGE METALWORK STUDIO Hammerfest Forge is a source for finely crafted ironwork Fireplace equipment • Gates • Railings Door and cabinet hardware • Signage Furniture • Lighting (electric & candle) And much more Larry Crawford, Metalsmith 830.613.7404 2400 FM 1703 Alpine,Texas [email protected] hammerfestforge.com

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Cenizo 14 Third Quarter 2016 Salsa Stories: Documenting the stories behind salsa on the border as told to Johanna Nelson PABLO GARCIA • EL PASO, TEXAS

ood salsa is about more than mixing the mix. I’m not looking for a sweet ences around us. I ended up being together a few chiles and tomatoes taste when I make salsa, so that’s why I involved with gangs and drugs at a G because there’s a secret ingredient that don’t cook the onion; the longer you young age, but getting into food helped can’t be measured - the story. Every incredible cook onion, the sweeter it gets. Then, I me to turn my life around. I have been salsa has a story behind it. Ask anyone in West add a few cloves of raw garlic, salt and in the food industry for about 19 years Texas about what constitutes the best salsa and pepper, cumin and cilantro. People and currently I’m working on finishing you’ll discover deep-seated passions about tend to misuse cumin a lot because it up my Culinary Arts degree from El intense chiles, beautiful stories of family and takes a while for its flavor to release and Paso Community College. It’s interest- culture, or salsa philosophies that vary as wide- ing for to me to look back on my life ly as the salsa recipes. Crafting a delicious salsa and reflect on all the pieces that led up is an art form that requires precise tuning and to where I am today. a well-developed process that is sometimes car- My dad worked at ASARCO, the ried on for generations. smelter refinery here in El Paso, for 40 Salsa Stories is a project that seeks to cele- years. I would see my mom wake up at brate and explore the craft of making salsa in 4 a.m. to make his breakfast and lunch restaurants and food establishments, far West Texas and the wonderful stories every day. When I was younger, I woke like universities, hospitals, and hos- behind it. up early to be able to sit there and talk pices. As I was working in a children’s to my dad before he went to work, hospital, my perception of my job shift- When I was growing up, my parents especially during the weekends. I liked ed and I came to realize how important had this thing that when they were watching my mom as she got things food was. I recognized that the meal I invited to people’s homes and the salsa develop unless you heat it up. It can ready and would pay close attention to was making might be the last that was too hot, it was like disrespect to taste very different the next day, so the things she put into his lunch box. someone ever ate. I developed the them, and they thought it was almost that’s why you have to know what Sometimes, I would go through it just mentality that everything I made had offensive. So, that idea has stuck with you’re doing when you use it. It’s also to be nosy because I was such a curious to be perfect; it became a passion and a me throughout my life and when I’m important to pay attention to the con- kid. After he got home from work, I’d force and I tried to do the best I could making salsa, I’m always very con- sistency. I like my salsa to be chunky, watch her go through the process of with every dish. scious of the heat level; I never want to but not too thick. While you’re blend- cleaning it out. Every time, there was Eventually I improved and cooking make it too hot. For a basic table salsa, ing, you can always add a little of the always a small container of Tang and a became a part of me, and really the I prefer a traditional style and strive for water that the tomatoes were boiled in jar of salsa. I was fascinated by those lit- only thing I was good at. Cooking gave a medium heat level. It’s a lot easier to to help get it right. tle details and the images have stuck me the opportunity to put my personal- add to it if you decide you want it to be If I go to a house or to cookouts, with me during my life. ity and drive into it. It also gave me the hotter. Or, you can always just make especially when I was involved with the I started off in fast food when I was chance to honor my family’s heritage one that’s hot to have on the table church more, people usually ask me to basically a kid. That was the period by remembering old recipes or how my along with the milder version, too. make the salsa. Most people will when I was involved in gangs and deal- mom would cook certain foods. It’s I still use my Mom’s original salsa always remember a good salsa or ask ing with a lot of anger and issues. There important to me to remember my par- recipe from roasted Serrano chiles. My for the recipe. I think the secret is keep- was nothing positive around, and I got ents’ story, like how my mom was a salsa making process is pretty simple. ing it simple. When people get compet- in a lot of trouble with the law. migrant worker and immigrant and my I’ll roast around four chiles while I’m itive, they try to outdo themselves, but Eventually, I had to move to Denver, dad worked hard at ASARCO for all boiling the tomatoes. Once the chiles with salsa, I think the key is sticking to Colorado, to get away. I started work- those years. During all of that, my are blackened and soft, I put them in a the basics. I’ve carried my mom’s salsa ing at an Italian restaurant with Keith mom has always made the same salsa plastic bag for a couple of minutes, recipe with me my whole life; I’m glad Brunell who took me under his wing and used the same recipe. And now, I which is a trick of the trade that makes I can use it to create something that and taught me a lot. From that point, am continuing it on. it easier to peel off the skin. Some peo- people like and brings them together. my love and passion for culinary arts Salsa is a wonderful thing to create ple like to have black char in their salsa, Now she’s 67, she might have lost a lit- really began to develop. No one had strong memories. It gives me an over- but I don’t care for it. I use a concasse tle of her step with age, but I’m positive ever given me an opportunity before; I whelming joy that people like my salsa. process with the tomatoes and let them that she still makes the best salsa. was 19. The fact that I’m able to share some- boil just until their skins begin to peel. Our family has been in the same I met my wife during that time, and thing that has such an important back- Then, I put the peeled chiles and the neighborhood in East El Paso for 36 we started having children. I had to ground and tradition for my family is boiled tomatoes in a blender. years. Growing up with my brothers start working for a temp service, which something good that I can offer. Next, I’ll add a small, fresh onion to and sisters, there were a lot of bad influ- sent me out to all types of different

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 15 CYRUS M. “CHARLIE” WILSON Father of Sanderson and Terrell County by Bill Smith

he most colorful character to the proposed route, he decided that the walk the streets of Sanderson, natural bowl in the topography where TTexas, was Charlie Wilson. present-day Sanderson, Texas, sits was Civil War veteran, frontiersman, gam- a natural spot for a town. He filed bler and wheeler-dealer, he founded claim on all the available land in the the community to make his fortune. area. Had he hesitated, the railroad Stories of his exploits and antics rivaled would have gotten that land for free as even those of the legendary Judge Roy an inducement by the state for building Bean. in the area. Cyrus M. “Charlie” Wilson was The first thing Charlie built was a born in Fleming County, Kentucky, in tent saloon to serve the thirsty 3,000- June of 1847, but spent his childhood in man rail crews when they got to town. Paris, Edgar County, Illinois. Andrew This won him the enmity of the Wilson, his father and a blacksmith, Southern Pacific Railroad. For the was born in Fleming County, KY and next 30 years they waged an ongoing his mother, May, in Fauquier County, feud in which he usually gained the Virginia. He had a brother and three upper hand. Much to the chagrin of sisters, and a half-sister from his moth- the railroad hierarchy, he delighted in er’s first marriage. Paris was and is a finding ways to outsmart the corpora- sleepy farming community on the tion. Illinois-Indiana border, and his father Tales of his exploits with the railroad was a very busy man. Charlie learned were legendary in the small, growing skills in the blacksmith shop that stood community. When the railroad arrived him well in later life. they found that they had to purchase At the start of the Civil War Charlie property from him on which to build was far too young to enlist. As soon as the depot, crew bunkhouse and other he looked old enough, he enlisted as a company buildings. On top of that, he Private in Company H of the 64th (and the whole town) often swiped Illinois Volunteer Infantry, 1st wood, coal and water from the rail- Battalion, Yates’ Sharp Shooters, on road’s huge stockpile. To control theft, February 3, 1864. He was just 16. the railroad banned building on the He fought in Alabama and south side of the tracks and forced the Tennessee, and then joined with people to relocate to the north. Sherman’s army in its siege of Atlanta. Charlie Wilson and his pugs And then there were the property In Sherman’s drive to the sea, his com- line disputes. The railroad surveyed pany destroyed railroads and engaged After the war Charlie immigrated to He was a well-known character in West their property by the depot and found the Confederacy at every opportunity, West Texas to begin the life of a fron- Texas from the earliest post-war days. that Charlie’s Cottage Bar Saloon was participating in many famous battles. tiersman. It was a wild and forbidding In the early 1880s, the Southern sitting partially on railroad property. During the conflict he was wounded place. The Comanches and Apaches Pacific Railroad in the west and the Charlie didn’t dispute the fact, but twice, once in the left hand and once in were attacking the sparse settlements, Galveston, Harrisburg and San when they demanded he close his the throat, but the wounds were not stealing livestock and taking captives. Antonio Railroad in the east were saloon, he got his own surveyors and serious. His regiment marched across Outlaws and criminals used the Big building a new all-weather southern found that the last two stalls of the the south, finishing the fighting at Bend and West Texas as a place to transcontinental rail route, which was roundhouse sat on his property. He Bentonville, NC. escape the long arm of the law. It was scheduled to meet at some location in proceeded to close the Cottage Bar and The distinguished 64th suffered a into this dangerous environment that southern Pecos County. In that period move his operations to the roundhouse. casualty count of 242 men, over half of Charlie wholeheartedly cast his lot. Pecos County was huge, encompassing He stood his ground until top officials whom died of illness. At war’s end his The 1880 Census for Presidio present-day Reeves, Terrell, Val Verde with the railroad came to make a deal, regiment participated in the Grand County, Texas, shows that he was a and Pecos Counties. Through some allowing him to retain his Cottage Bar Review of the Armies in Washington, bartender in Fort Davis. This was dur- means Charlie saw the surveyors’ plans Saloon in exchange for their round- D.C., and then returned to Illinois. He ing the Buffalo Soldier years at the and was shrewd enough to figure out house stalls. mustered out on July 11, 1865. He had Fort, so it is unlikely that he was soldier that a division point would be located Then there was the time that Roy attained the rank of Corporal. Here his at that time, and he does not show up roughly half-way between San Antonio Bean moved to town to open a compet- military record ends. on the rosters of officers of the period. and El Paso. Studying the land along ing saloon. In the night Charlie sent

Cenizo 16 Third Quarter 2016 someone to spike Bean’s whiskey barrel mash the girls.” Obviously Charlie had eggs and meat at the restaurant, and Uncle Charlie, as the locals loved to with kerosene. The next day, one taste a great sense of humor. one day, Charlie acquired a pet coyote call him, was a shrewd businessman sent Bean’s customers away, and he About 1902, Charlie built the wood for his saloon, just across the street. He and an inveterate gambler. But the big relocated to Langtry. He and Charlie and adobe Terrell Hotel just north of set a trail of corn kernels from the free- Irishman, a confirmed lifelong bache- remained friends, but always at arm’s the depot. Another long adobe build- range chickens to his bar, and when the lor, had a heart of gold and a soft spot length. They continually bested each ing just north of that served as a hotel chickens followed the trail, it led to his in his heart for children. As his town other in a series of pranks and deals. It previously, but he tied the two together chained coyote, which promptly grew he built public buildings and also earned Sanderson the name, “The donated property for the new county town too mean for Bean.” courthouse and several churches. He In an early article entitled “A Very was also a breeder of pug dogs. When a Deer Experience” from the San Antonio child was born he sometimes gave the Daily Light, February 6, 1886, the writer newborn a town lot and a puppy for a reports on a visit Charlie made to the birth gift. Generous and outgoing, nev- city. He is characterized as “having ertheless he always had a deal going, lived on the edge, and sometimes a bit and not always scrupulously legal. over the edge of civilization for years,” In 1906 Charlie sold 90 percent of and that he had “met and vanquished his holdings in Sanderson and the area, the wild and wooly bear, the fierce and he moved to El Paso. He wanted catamount, voracious wolf, and times to move on to Cuba, but old age caught without end had settled scores with the up with him. While in El Paso in 1908, treacherous and murderous Comanche he became ill and was sent to the Home and Apache Indians.” He had come to for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers in town to “see the sights and get polished Santa Monica, California. As his up a little so as to cut out hated rivals in health problems grew worse, he lost a affairs of the heart.” He and a friend foot to gangrene. Three weeks later he went to see the newly improved San died, on August 25, 1912. Charlie was Pedro Park and chanced upon the deer laid to rest with honor at what became pen with the gate open. He went inside the Los Angeles National Cemetery. to “while away a few moments fondling And, for all the wheeling and dealing with those meek and timid creatures.” and profit-taking he had done in his Suddenly, a young buck took offense life, his final estate was valued at $2.30, and jumped him, knocking him to the little more than the change in his pock- ground and severely pummeling him et or perhaps the liquidation of his per- with his sharp hooves. Poor Charlie’s sonal items at the Home. brand new suit was reduced to rags and Charlie Wilson was a man who the buck “began operations as a exemplified the entrepreneurial spirit sausage factory.” Charlie’s friend man- of West Texas. Coming to the area aged to pull him to safety and they beat Cyrus “Charlie” M. Wilson, Alexander Watkins Terrell, Texas Legislator for whom the county was during an extremely dangerous period, a hasty retreat. The paper reported, named, Joe Kerr, Sr., and W.P. Watkins. 1905 he carved out a niche for himself and a “This morning he is about, smiling, but whole community. Considering the limping, and said that it was the ‘deer- into one big operation. For years snatched them up and had a feast. love and admiration which was univer- est’ experience he had ever had and Chinese gentlemen ran the hotel, and Charlie bragged about not having to sally bestowed upon him, it is no exag- that the San-tone ‘deers’ are altogether the building behind was used as their buy feed for his pet, but one day the geration to characterize him as the too belligerent for him, and that he will restaurant. Humorous stories from Chinese restaurant manager brought “Father of Sanderson and Terrell return to Sanderson, where there is not that period recount the Chinese and over a bill for the missing chickens. County, Texas.” And, here it is, a hun- a woman within a hundred miles. He their cooking and management abili- Charlie paid up, and the bar patrons dred years later, and he is still the topic has had enough coming to San-tone to ties. The Chinese kept chickens for the hooted that he had gotten caught. of conversation.

Christina’s World Folk Art • Jewelry from Around the World Local Artisans • Fossils Large Day of the Dead Collection “Beauty is Critical” The Boardwalk, Lajitas Open daily 9:30 am to 5:30 pm

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 17 Photo Essay Animalitos by Carol Townsend

concentrate my photographic work in and around my hometown of IMarathon, Texas. Often at sunrise and sunset I only have to step out my back door to find nature’s creatures waiting for me. Please enjoy this sam- ple from my backyard or from just down the road. My neighborhood is filled with wildlife already posing.

Black Tailed Jack Rabbit

Pronghorns Post Road

Great Horned Owl

Cenizo 18 Third Quarter 2016 Above: White tailed deer. Below left: Elk. Below right: Javalina

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 19 Voices of the BIG BEND Jim Glendinning: The Galloping Scot, Author, World Traveler and tour operator to Copper Canyon, Mexico. Story and photographs by Jim Glendinning

MIKE PALLANEZ Miguel Pallanez (Mike) was born in Alpine in 1943, the youngest of five children, to Antonio and Virginia Gallego Pallanez. He was preceded by three sisters and a brother, who died at age 18 from pneumonia. His father was a World War I veter- an who worked in a variety of jobs locally. He successfully raised goats for their angora wool and was a stock hauler. He opened a café, El Charo Café, on Harrison Street in Alpine, and also had a hog farm. Antonio Pallanez died in 1974 at age 80. He and Virginia were sticklers for education and would have been immensely proud of their son’s career in coaching as well as of their daugh- ters, who were all involved in educa- tion. Pallanez started at Centennial MIKE PALLANEZ BETH GARCIA CHARLIE ANGELL School, attending through eighth Alpine Alpine Presidio grade. He didn’t excel in any one sub- Photo by Tim McKenna ject but recalls “very good, dedicated teachers.” Pallanez’s first year at Centennial coaching from 2001-2008 at Sul Ross. 1967, Garcia attended community col- In 1957 he started at Alpine High School was a great success, going unde- Today he is a County Commissioner. lege in Marianna, FL. She didn’t com- School. “Everyone got along well,” he feated in football, and track As a man who loved teaching and plete the course; instead, she married recalls, “especially the athletes.” He in 1967/1968. In 1974 he moved to coaching, Pallanez’s message is: “If you Ernest Frey, who worked nearby in the played for four years and foot- Alpine High School and restarted base- love what you do, keep doing it.” US Air Force. The couple eloped to ball for three years. He loved competi- ball, followed by a brief stint coaching Alabama to marry since she was too tion and learned that you win as a team at Fabens High School. BETH GARCIA young to marry in Florida. and lose as a team. Here he enjoyed remarkable success The main characters in Beth Ernie quit the Air Force and took a In fall 1961, Pallanez enrolled at Sul during the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Garcia’s popular crime novels are job. Garcia gained experience in the Ross, but suffered a car accident. He Alpine were District Champions in 17 tough people living in a rugged terrain. insurance business, got a license, and re-enrolled in 1963, studying Physical out of 18 years in baseball and in 1994 Residents of Big Bend can easily recog- showed an entrepreneurial ability in Education with a Minor in Biology, qualified for the State final four. nize this landscape since they live there. sales that would help her later. and graduated in 1967. His first job Asked to explain the importance of They can empathize with the charac- However, their lives were moving was teaching Physical Education and sports competition at the high school ters due to Garcia’s skill at drawing the apart, and they divorced in 1979. In Science at Centennial School. level, he replies that putting on a uni- reader into the story. How Garcia 1980, Garcia took off for the west and Pallanez married Rosie Valenzuela form gives you the ability to reach fur- achieves this is bound up with her own never returned. in 1970, whom he met at Centennial ther. In a team, you learn to cope with life’s journey. In 1984 she fetched up at Lajitas School where she worked as a teacher’s adversity and how to come back. Elizabeth Anne Egger (Beth) was Resort, tending bar. She was hired by aide. They married at Our Lady of Competition is the key to improving born in Rochester, NY in 1949, the Big Bend River Tours at a period when Peace Catholic Church in Alpine and the man. Coaching is teaching in a dif- eldest of three daughters of the Rev. the river ran high and the rafting busi- subsequently had five children: Mary, ferent context. Henry T. and Anne Eggers, a teacher. ness boomed. She bought the company Julie, Michelle, Tony and Linda. Tony Pallanez’s awards include West Her father’s calling as an Episcopal in 1988. The business grew, and at one became head baseball coach at Texas Coach of the Year (1994) and priest meant the family moved fre- stage she had 43 employees. Riverside High School in El Paso. the Odessa American baseball Coach quently. Her childhood years were In 1983, she married Efrain Garcia, Three of his daughters became school of the Year (1998). In 2015 he was spent in Charleston, NC and later in by whom she had a daughter, teachers like their mother, who was an inducted into the Texas High School Gainesville, FL, where Garcia attended Margarita. Margarita would later play exceptional elementary school teacher. Baseball Coach Association Hall of PK Younge High School. a role in Garcia’s book-writing career, Linda works in the DA’s office. Fame. Pallanez retired in 2008 after After graduating from high school in as a part role model for Deputy Ricos,

Cenizo 20 Third Quarter 2016 the tough female protagonist. The prof- future. I ask if there will be more books. workers. Angell thrives on the solitude and its from the rafting company paid for “Oh Yes. Yes Sir!” she replies. Around 2001, he was contacted by a beauty of the desert. His nearest neigh- treatment for a lung disease which she lawyer in West Texas regarding a bor is one-and-a-half miles distant. He was told, when it was diagnosed in CHARLIE ANGELL house near Ruidosa, that had belonged vigorously promotes and tends Angell 1985, would end her life in 6 months. From a thriving roofing business in to his father, now deceased. He inherit- Expeditions, where he now has 40 Garcia sold Big Bend River Tours in Miami to an expanding tourism enter- ed the house, and started to make peri- boats. 2000, and started the Terlingua Youth prise in the quiet desert near Presidio, odic visits to fix up the house in the bor- Building a good relationship with Club dealing with the after-school Charlie Angell gets things done. He derland of desert and mountains, and Big Bend Ranch State Park, where he needs of local youngsters. This devel- was born in Hawaii in 1961. Family life few people. He felt super-connected to caters for events, he also looks to bene- oped in the Boys & Girls Club of was unsettled since his father was an the area. Running half-clothed through fit when the Chinati Mountains State Terlingua. The project, which she calls abusive man. However, after a divorce the desert as recreation was much more Natural Area opens, since this yet- “the most meaningful thing I ever did,” and a move to Fort Worth in 1964, satisfying than coping with the crime, undeveloped area is on his door step. was sabotaged by local interests and left matters improved for Angell, his sister noise and crowds of Miami. He deals increasingly with school her with a huge anger. Ruth and his mother Judy. In 2008 he moved permanently to groups and Boy Scouts troops. She turned to writing professionally. Angell’s schooling was in Dallas, his Ruidosa property. He threw himself Angell Expeditions’ headquarters in In 2013 she finally completed her first where the family moved when he was into developing a guiding and rafting Redford sits on a site of Tapacolme Deputy Ricos book (One Bloody Shirt at a in fourth grade. At Seagoville High company. A timely recommendation Indians. Angell hopes to get involved Time), and exorcised the anger. Front School he became captain of the swim from a happy client got his company, with an archeological dig, leading to a Street Books placed a big order. The team and showed promise in writing. Angell Expeditions, a top listing on book about the area. Already qualified book went on to win “Best Crime He enjoyed the outdoors and left the Trip Advisor. Passionate about wildlife, to operate in Novel of the Year” by the Texas city whenever he could for camping he worked on learning about the natu- and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Angell Association of Authors for 2013. and hiking. ral life of the area as well as the history. recently got qualified as a guide in the Her books all have catchy Graduating from high school in Angell Expeditions offers hiking trips, Devil’s River State Park. Meanwhile, titles (eg Darker than Black, Beautiful Bones) 1984, he spent a few semesters in com- jeep tours, rafting trips, and Angell later on any day, Angell is somewhere on the and strong covers. She has a dedicated munity college. Hearing of construc- got into the camp cooking business. move, promoting his Angell local fan club as well as faithful readers tion opportunities in Miami following Pilar Pedersen of Alpine, who ranches Expeditions or looking for a new inter- further afield. Carol Wallace of Alpine, Hurricane Andrew, he headed there in near Ruidosa, calls him “a world class est in the region to satisfy his curiosity one of these fans, says, “She takes us on 1992 and found work suited to his guide.” Meanwhile, he is always on the and drive. a ride. I eat up her books.” Beth Garcia high-charged energy. Later he formed lookout for properties to turn into is brimming with story plots for the a company that came to employ 60 rental houses.

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Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 21 Little Explorers in theBIG BEND by Danielle Gallo. IBIllustration Gby Gary Oliv er. BEND

Cenizo 22 Third Quarter 2016 he world is made of nooks and and geologic. Now that I have my own Big Bend National Park as it is a pleas- point to a stripe of rock, wiggling crazi- crannies. Traveling the broad children, I think a lot about the places ant scramble up the arroyo (check the ly, and explain that the space between Trivers of concrete, to and fro, I want to show them, the landscapes weather forecast first, lest a distant it and the one below it is a million day to day, it’s easy to forget that the that will shape and inform their con- storm place you in danger of a flash years or an ice age or the receding of a majority of real estate is still devoid of cepts of history and the earth. flood). The walls of the wide, shallow great inland sea. homes, offices, identical stores and I often tell visitors to go see Ernst canyon are strongly layered bands of Not very far to the west of Ernst manmade objects. We wear channels Tinaja. It’s a familiar conversation: I cherty limestone and sandstone, mark- Tinaja lies the Chisos Basin, and there through the world with our feet and say the name, and they struggle to ing the ebb and flow of ancient oceans. near the lodge is the Lost Mine Trail. wheels, but outside the familiar paths wrap the unfamiliar words into a pack- The crazed hump and tilt of these For older children, capable of a some- there are different patterns worn by age that will mean something to them. bands are a remembrance of tectonic times-challenging day hike, the Lost wind and water; there are living histo- I write it down, then explain that a plates beneath our feet, slow behe- Mine offers mystery, education and ries and vibrant traditions still being tinaja is a naturally-occurring hole moths floating like bumper boats on a sweeping vistas of the desert. The hike written. When your family is young, eroded into rock by the swirling eddies sea of magma. The power of the quiet takes its name from Lost Mine Peak, it’s all the more important to show of passing water. Ernst Tinaja is an earth is such that massive sheets of which in turn is so called because of the your children that the world is more arroyo, a watercourse that remains dry stone buck and ripple. Purple and red legend of a secret mine whose location than an endless repetition of macadam in the absence of rain. When it rains, sandstone swirls reveal fossils every- was lost when the workers were all and manicured parks. the local topography funnels the water where, to the most casual observer. killed by Comanche. Many have When I was young in New England, to create a temporary river (or, for Whole cliffs of swallows’ nests are rem- sought the treasure, but it has yet to be we used to explore the New those from less arid climates, a creek). iniscent of stone-age cities. It is surreal. found. The hike is about five miles Hampshire woods and streams. I loved Sometimes the water hits a bump. The Timeless. Forty minutes or so from long, and the way up to the top can be the old stone walls that crisscrossed the bump makes the water swirl. The Panther Junction. a challenge; but the walk back to the forests—reminders of the old farms swirl, over time, erodes the limestone, For me it’s a perfect place to bring car is delightfully downhill, and the now covered by young growth. It creating a bigger bump. Eventually, a children, because there are few places views of Juniper Canyon and the sur- made me think of the settlers who built hollow place is carved out of the bed of I’ve been where geologic time and the rounding peaks and forests of the them two and three centuries before, the arroyo, which holds water when it awesome forces of earth movement are Chisos are well worth the effort. clearing the old-growth trees by hand, rains, a precious rarity in the laid so plainly bare to the naked eye. There is a trail guide available at the ploughing rocky soil, piling the stones Chihuahuan desert, and an important It’s one thing to explain to a little one to mark their fields. I still love to find ecological boon for plants, animals and about eons and extinctions and the traces of long-vanished footprints, and humans. powers that make and destroy moun- continued on page 24 the Trans-Pecos is full of them, human Ernst Tinaja is not so much a trail in tains; it’s quite another to be able to

THE BEER FROM OUT HERE

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 23 tly at their toes as they lounge in the continued from page 23 pristine waters. The park is home to many species of birds, fish and other trailhead or the visitor’s center which wildlife, which find sanctuary in the corresponds to numbered posts along restored wetlands. The Comanche the way, offering snippets of informa- Springs Pupfish is only found in the tion about the ecosystems, wildlife and wetlands around the artesian springs of geology visible from the trail. There Balmorhea. Young visitors can borrow are also a number of comfortable way- a Junior Ranger Explorer Pack from points, designed to allow the casual the visitor’s center, which includes a hiker to stop and rest, drink water, pair of binoculars and a magnifying grab a snack, and regale the children glass, an animal tracking key, guides to with off-the-cuff ghost stories about the plants, animals and insects, and pencil, lost mine and its unfortunate crew, crayons and watercolors to use with a whom legend says were blindfolded on journal and sketchbook. A hike their way to work each day, so they through the restored cienegas, or wet- could never reveal the location. lands, exploring and documenting this Though children (and less athletic rare desert oasis, makes a long dip in adults) will want to take their time the springs even more rewarding for meeting the challenges of the trail, the the whole family. sense of accomplishment and the stun- Whether the Big Bend is your back- ning views they’ll earn upon complet- yard (and I like to think of it as being ing it will make for lasting memories. the backyard for all of Texas) or a This is a perfect “first real hike” for longer trek from home finding a few young people, and if time at the park is activities to explore in depth with the limited, the Lost Mine Trail should little ones will do more than make for a make the cut. nice vacation. The wheels of young Moving north, the San Solomon minds turn swiftly with a little grease, springs gush into the arid desert at and the Big Bend offers history, biolo- Balmorhea near Fort Davis, spilling 15 gy, geology, archaeology (all the Oh million gallons of crystal clear, ancient gee! stuff, actually), astronomy, peace water into the historic pool every day. and quiet, hard work and good exer- Built in the 1930s by the Civilian cise as mental lubrication. It’s the best Conservation Corps, Balmorhea is the kind of playground in the world, the largest spring-fed swimming pool in kind that teaches a lot of everything all the world. The CCC hewed local lime- at once, and some good old-fashioned stone and sun-baked adobe bricks, cre- common sense thrown in with a strong ating a park and a pool nearly two measure of fun. The backyards of the acres in size and 25 feet deep in places. Photo courtesy of Wendy Lynn Wright world have grown smaller through the Scuba and skin diving are popular years, but the Big Bend is still here to activities for visitors. The seven dollar under twelve enter for free), and camp- round. accommodate all the endless wonder park entrance fee covers the cost of ing is also available. The water stays First-time visitors are often a little contained in the minds of children. swimming there for adults (children around 70 degrees Fahrenheit year startled to feel local fishes nibbling gen-

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Cenizo 24 Third Quarter 2016 snap a picture of the firmament – students chipped in for a bottle of wine blossomed from there. He moved to continued from page 4 Mother Nature using hues of gray to to pay the model, and that day painted Cleburne, on the outskirts of Fort create rolling textures on her sky can- something fresh – a live, nude wino. Worth, and the rest, as they say, is his- tens of thousands of years. ‘Primitive’ vas – captured on a modern day tool of In the 70s Read was hired to paint tory. History done in acrylics on a large people used to record snippets of their the contemporary artist. custom vans, training for three weeks scale for whomever is willing to pay his lives on walls in caves using techniques Read grew up around art. His on the system and paint style. Read price. that experts think may have originated father, Sleepy Read, worked in a sheet said the vans were mostly generic, none Murals depicting the history of a in Africa before waves of migrations off metal shop full-time and a movie house of the doobie-smoking dragons or grim place or time period are Read’s thing the continent began. part-time, but in his free time painted reapers riding unicorns and sporting now, he said. “I’m a history buff and I Figurative art is generally believed to abstracts and modern art as well as machine guns that we fondly remem- like to spark the interest in others.” have started around 35,000 to 40,000 rural Texas landscapes. Read tagged ber of 70s Shaggin’ Wagons. He did, This makes it fun for him to do the years ago. Some say this marked a cog- along with his father when Sleepy ran however, paint a plaza scene of the research for the rendering of a mural. nitive turn for humankind: The ability the projector at the Pines Theater in Alamo as it looked in the 1880s on a “I study up on the history to represent to think symbolically allowed humans Lufkin, Texas. While Papa Read paint- couple of vans. Read said the impor- what needs to be done without getting to let one thing stand for another, i.e. ed between reel changes and projector tant stuff (like the Alamo) was usually too technical,” he said. visual representations in drawing and cock-ups, young Read sat outside the on the driver’s side, so he probably did Luckily for us masses, who depend sculpture. This connects the modern- door – “It was too hot to sit in the room a mission scene on the passenger side. upon others to document our place in day human – in the loosest of ways – to with dad” – and reveled in watching He may call his van-painting days the annals of the late modern period, our ancestors in that we still use sym- cartoons and movies. This instilled a generic, but they were unique enough Read is versatile enough to do more bolism to similarly interpret life today. love of picture and color early on. to recognize as his own: seven or eight than just longhorns and western scenes. The most famous ones are overseas in As Read matured, he did a stint as a years later, Read said he saw one of his He did a circa 1930s art deco movie places like Indonesia and France, but drawing and painting major at the painted vans over in Juarez. house theme at the Rangra Theatre in even West Texas has some primitive University of North Texas in Denton, Read moved up the paint ladder to Alpine. He’s gone blind doing hill art in the Lower Pecos Canyonlands, as just north of the Dallas/Fort Worth buses, namely Nashville tour buses, country bluebonnet scenes. In San well as other places. metroplex. Although he didn’t pursue eventually adding Hank Williams, Jr.’s Angelo, Read documented a song – a No matter the moniker, if they with- his degree to the finish, this introduced bus to his portfolio. one-hit wonder – in paint. The stand the climate and the onslaught of him to his lifetime love of the mural art As Read grew tired of canvases with Cavaliers were an Air Force “boy time, these paintings give us insight into form and his dislike of being too repeti- wheels, he also started becoming aller- group” out of San Angelo, and their the psyche of the times in which they tious. “I get bored to death, just paint- gic to the clear coat used for the finish. teen-tragedy song “Last Kiss” spent six were done. We ponder the mysteries of ing the same thing over and over,” He started coming out to Alpine in months at number one on the Hit handprints and especially animals – did Read said. Even then, he wanted to 1981 and liked it so much he kept Parade List in 1964. Read painted the they eat them, friend them, use them as keep things from getting stale. During returning, eventually living in band as they were at the height of their a connection to the spirit world? Have his time at UNT, the class had live Terlingua and Fort Davis for a while. fame on the building the song was we come such a small way in the evolu- models come and sit for the students. While in Terlingua, he worked at a recorded in. tionary process that we still want to “It was the same old hippie ballerina store for Bill Ivey and painted maps Five or six years ago, another paint on walls? for about two years, occasionally inter- and signs and pictures on the side, most painter referred Read to a “contest” in I met Read to talk about his painting spersed with a couple other girls,” notably a sign for the Gage Hotel in central Texas at an African trophy history on a smoky morning in May as Read said. The budding artists, weary Marathon. room. The expansive room contained he worked on the Rangra Theatre of the recurring model, one day ven- Read scored his first commercial mural in Alpine. As mammatus clouds tured outside the schoolbox and wall gig in the stockyards of Fort Worth continued on page 26 poured in, Read took his phone out to brought in someone off the street. The in the early 90s, and his mural career

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Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 25 continued from page 25

upwards of 100 animals, full mounts (which means the BIGGEST whole animal is stuffed and on display, including an elephant SELECTION and a giraffe), and the owner West of the Pecos wanted murals painted around the collection. A hand- Open 10am to 9pm ful of artists each painted a ten Mon - Sat Sunday Services at 11:00 a.m. foot section of wall. They got Children’s RE 1st & 3rd Sunday paid for a day’s work, and the Potluck every 1st Sunday “winner” finished out the rest We believe in the freedom of of the room. A woman from religious expression. Zimbabwe was chosen for the task. Later, however, the taxi- 605 E Holland Ave • Alpine dermist called and asked Read 1308 N. 5th Street • Alpine to come and add the uubb.org • 432-837-5486 432.837.7476 Cameroon Rainforest to the www.twinpeaksliquors.com Te UUBB is a lay-led fellowship. room as well as touch up what the woman had done. Now, years later, as the owners St. James’ Episcopal Church, Ave. A and N. 6th St., Alpine change up the room again, Holy Eucharist 1st, 2nd, 3rd Sundays 11 a.m. Read has been asked to come Morning Prayer 4th and 5th Sundays 11 a.m. and add more animals and a Godly Play for ages 3-9, every Sunday, Sept thru May, 11:00 am scene of a village with a plane landing, preparing for the never the same. In 2005, the do it – albeit with more techni- The Big Bend Episcopal hunt. “I’m just a hired scene was changed to the Big cal accuracy. Now we also Mission Welcomes You mechanic on that one,” Read Brewster that stands today. include music and film and Santa Inez Church, Terlingua Ghostown The Rev. Kay Jennings said. “Someone else is calling Last year, Read was induct- other staples of pop culture in Holy Eucharist first Saturday 5 p.m. Sept.~ May 432.386.7464 the shots, which is nice once in ed in to the Texas Trail of our visual history. The materi- [email protected] a while.” Fame for his part in preserving als Read uses today, a mixture The Chapel of St. Mary & St. Joseph, Lajitas Read said he’s painted western heritage through his of acrylic house paint overlaid Holy Eucharist on 3rd Sunday, 4 pm bigbendepiscopalmission.org eight murals in Alpine, nine if paintings. Getting a plaque in with a UV protective coat that you include the Milton Faver the sidewalk at the Fort Worth NASA developed, will last mural that eventually became Stockyards National Historic decades, maybe longer. Will the Big Brewster when it had site was quite an honor, Read future inhabitants of the Earth to be redone. The Faver said. gaze at street art and ponder mural was done in dark colors “The years have paid off, the lives of 21st centurians? over a lime plaster. After an sticking with it, doing jobs you Stylle Read’s murals on atypical desert day, when five don’t want to do,” Read said. west Texas buildings may inches of rain fell in two hours “I feel blessed. The fun part is someday speak to our ances- followed by a drastic warm-up when you finish and sign your tors just as the Pecos Rock Art by the western sun, the mural name.” whispers to us today. began peeling and cracking, Just like the cave dwellers of degrading before its time. long ago, we’re still painting Read touched it up, but it was animals – or paying people to

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Cenizo 26 Third Quarter 2016 Big Bend Eats by Carolyn Brown Zniewski

THE PERSIAN MELON AKA MUSKMELON OR CANTALOUPE

hen I was a child, we ate Use a melon baller to ball the flesh Cantaloupe salsa Sweet and Sour Pickled Persian melons that came up of the melon or cut it into small 2 large cucumbers, finely diced Cantaloupe Wto Minnesota all the way pieces. Divide into 4 dessert dishes. 3 cups finely diced fresh cantaloupe ½ cup kosher salt from some exotic location West of the Mix coconut cream, cardamom, rose 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 small cantaloupe Pecos River. They were so delicious, water and agave nectar. Pour over ½ jalapeno pepper, seeded 2 cups honey especially when filled with a scoop of melon balls. Garnish with pistachios and minced 1 ½ cups cider vinegar lime sherbet. A colleague of my and fresh mint. I imagine this was 1 lime, juice and zest ¼ cup minced fresh ginger father’s was from West Texas, and served to Scheherazade. It is so very 1 small red onion, finely diced 1 stick cinnamon when his parents drove up to visit him exotic and special. 1 tomato, diced they would fill their station wagon with Cut the flesh of the cantaloupe into crates of melons raised by his uncle. 2” pieces and spread in a non-reactive They came much earlier in the sum- dish. Cover with ice. Sprinkle the ice mer than the locally-grown melons, with salt. Set aside for an hour while but more than that, they were so much the ice melts. Rinse cantaloupe pieces. more luscious and sweeter than the Using a non-reactive pan, mix the Minnesota melons we had in late sum- honey and vinegar until honey dis- mer. There was no doubt that the mel- solves, add cantaloupe, ginger and cin- ons raised in West Texas were the very namon. Bring to a simmer and simmer best Persian Melons in the world, bar for 45 minutes. Bottle pickles while none! hot. This should make about 2 pints That was in the 1950s. Nowadays and will store in the refrigerator for Persian melons are called cantaloupe, several months. This is an old-fash- but the ones grown in West Texas are ioned treat. Makes a great treat for the still the best. Cantaloupe or Persian kids. melons originated in Persia – present day Iraq and Iran – and spread Pecos Cocktail throughout the Mediterranean. When 2 oz tequila or rum Columbus arrived he passed out ½ cup cantaloupe melon seeds to the native people. ½ oz lime juice Growing them fit right into the gar- 1 oz orange juice dening practices of the time. 1 tsp honey This time of year Persian melons are on every fruit counter, and Combine ingredients in blender although they are delicious just as they with 1/3 cup crushed ice. Blend until come from Mother Nature, here are a smooth. Pour into an old-fashioned few recipes to gussy them up. All these glass. Garnish with fresh mint. are quick and easy, and only one Cantaloupe Salad 1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped requires you to turn on the stove. All 1 cantaloupe 1 pinch salt Pecos Bobby Jane are so good for enjoying on hot sum- 2 cups red grapes 1 pinch ground black pepper ½ cup cantaloupe mer days. 2 oz blue cheese 1 Tbls lime juice ¼ cup honey Mix together and serve with chips. ½ cup orange juice Persian Rose Cream ¼ cup chopped pecans It is a most refreshing salsa on a hot 1 tsp honey 1 small Persian melon (cantaloupe) afternoon and goes well with a dark 1 cup coconut cream Cut cantaloupe flesh into 1-inch beer or a glass of white wine. Serve it Combine ingredients in blender ½ tsp ground cardamom pieces, halve grapes, crumble blue for brunch over scrambled eggs with a with 1/3 cup crushed ice. Blend until 2 tsp rose water cheese and gently mix together with mimosa. It is especially good with fish smooth. Pour into an old-fashioned 2 Tbls agave nectar (or honey) honey and pecans. Let sit for ½ an tacos. glass. Garnish with fresh mint. Pistachios hour so juices gather. Serve over bib Fresh mint lettuce, garnish with fresh anise, hys- sop or fresh mint.

Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 27 !"#$% &'()% !"*+*# by Danielle Gallo

SCHOOLS OF THE BIG BEND

1) In 1930 the Chisos Mining Company erected a school to replace the one built in 1907 by Brewster County. It was called the: a) Quicksilver School c) Mariposa School Mexican b) Perry School d) Abajo School and 2) The Big Bend is famous for its charmingly small towns. How many children were enrolled in Marathon ISD in the 2015-2016 school year, American pre-k through grade 12? Food a) 72 c) 58 b) 104 d) 37 Open 6 am to 9 pm Everyday Famous Beef & Chicken Fajitas • Ice Cream Free Wi Fi • Clean, Fast Service 3) Which local Independent School District will begin teaching Culinary Rene & Maria Franco, Owners Arts to students in the fall of 2016, in conjunction with Odessa College? 513 O’Reilly Street • Downtown Presidio a) Sanderson c) Terlingua 432.229.4409 b) Marfa d) Marathon

4) The Fightin’ Bucks are Alpine ISD’s intrepid sports teams. How many sports, including football, baseball, basketball and , are played high quality garden under the Bucks’ purple and gold colors? pottery a) 7 c) 9 plants and gardening b) 19 d) 12 supplies 5) Marathon’s first school, taught by Miss Paxton, convened in a one-room gift shop with unique schoolhouse that still stands in the community square, next to the items from around library. What year was it built? the world a) 1888 c) 1907 brown dog b) 1918 d) 1880 gardens mon, thurs - sat 9 - 6

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Cenizo 28 Third Quarter 2016 Iris V. Korus, D.D.S. 432-837-5860 2007 W. Hamlin Ave. • Alpine GENERAL DENTISTRY By appointment

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The Heart of the Big Bend Country

THE HEART The Terlingua and Study Butte area is located just outside of the Big Bend National Park boundary. The area offers lodging, RV parks, restaurants, banks, OF THE a post office, auto repair, gift shops, grocery stores, and fueling stations, everything you need for your West BIG BEND Texas adventure! Home to outfitters who provide exciting and scenic river COUNTRY trips, off-road tours, bike tours and horseback rides. Golf Study Butte/Terlingua is located three miles from the park entrance. one of the most beautiful golf courses in Texas. We offer five motels, several restaurants, medics, post office, bank, gas station, Accessible by private airport, that can accommodate small a great quilt shop, art galleries, assorted gift shops, and wonderful night life. jets. You can also reserve a tour of the area by plane. To plan your Big Bend adventure contact: Big Bend Chamber of Commerce and Visit Big Bend. 432-371-2320 BigBendChamber.Homestead.com 432-371-2320

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Cenizo Third Quarter 2016 31 RANDALL CUSTOM HOMES The Art and Craft of Custom Homebuilding 30 years of professional experience

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