Eat & Drink Like a Chef
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eat & Drink like a chef hefs work hard, play harder, and many eat and drink with as much gusto as, if C not more than, we “civilians” do. When they aren’t hitched to their own kitchens, chefs stray into the territory of their culinary peers during off-hours. It’s partly to take stock of the “competition,” at times to draw culinary inspiration, but more often than not, simply to enjoy being on the receiving end of the service side for a change and have some fun away from the ball and chain of their own restaurant. So when chefs dish on their favorite bars and restaurants, we listen. Here’s a list of the places that earn their hard-earned money after a shift or on that rare night off. We’d be wise eaters to follow in their clog steps. —BY PETER SZYMCZAK 2 2 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2011 | NORTHWEST PALATE | EST. 1987 WWW.NORTHWESTPALATE.COM Pacific Northwest right now?T he Pear produce from his own rooftop garden He also loves to travel the region in Tree. Chef Scott Jaeger never serves at the restaurant in the Fremont search of food and drink excellence. something until he has the execution neighborhood. He’s also a big completely nailed, and I’m always supporter of the Ballard Farmers Best place for a late-night bite? blown away by the amazing, modern Market, which takes place year round Frites and aioli at Waterfront Wines dishes. in front of the restaurant, and is an avid (Kelowna). surfer. Cocktails? L’Abattoir in Gastown Where is the best place to tank up (Vancouver). before hitting the waves? I drink tons of coffee on the drive to the coast Cheap and fast lunch? Noodle Box Chef Hamid Salimian, Diva because I’m trying to maintain my (Victoria). at the Met, Vancouver, BC, is one of buoyancy, but afterwards I enjoy lots the city’s foremost practitioners of of Dungeness crab and beer at Brady’s Romantic dinner? Also in Victoria, molecular gastronomy—think cotton Oysters in Aberdeen, Washington. Brasserie L’Ecole is awesome every candy pizza, foams, and plates with time. The romance is in the food— painted sauces. The Persian chef What is your “go to” comfort food? It there is love in that cooking! represented Canada at the World changes, pizza to izakaya—but lately Chef Justin Wills, Restaurant Culinary Olympics and Bocuse d’Or. it’s been udon at Showa in Fremont. What other restaurant offers a great Beck, Depoe Bay, OR, is upping view to pair with the food? As an avid the coastal cuisine ante, playing to What is your “go to” comfort food? Lunch? The tofu rice bowl at Revel is motorist, Chuckanut Drive through a crowd of in-the-know locals and Kabab kobideh. There’s a small place flavor country. Fairhaven (in Bellingham, WA) is guests staying at the Whale Cove on Denman Street, Mediterranean Grill, a must. A good bowl of soup at the Inn. When he’s not searching for where they cook to order and have a Romantic dinner? Boat Street Cafe Calaphon Café with the adjoining book sustainable seafood and locally great spice:fat:meat ratio. You see lots yields a home run every time. and cook shops make this a pretty foraged ingredients, he spends his free of Middle Eastern cabbies and limo regular destination. time with his wife and young son, and drivers lined up out front, so you know What restaurant do you think is doing enjoys making forays to Portland to it’s good. the most exciting food in Seattle sample the city’s fare. right now? La Bête maintains a great Best place for a late-night bite? balance of creativity without smoke Best place for a late-night bite? Tsui Hang Village at Davie and and mirrors. When we are in Portland, we like going Granville. It’s open until 4 a.m. and to Oba for their late-night happy hour. actually has decent Chinese food. I What other restaurant does a good tend to get the eggplant hotpot. job of using the bounty of local Cheap and fast lunch? Mio Sushi on produce? Emmer & Rye stays true to Hawthorne or Pho Van. Shot and a beer after work with the sourcing locally and produces tasty guys? For years and years, we’ve food. Best place to go with the whole gone to the Granville Room. I guess family? Biwa is awesome. We even Chef Spencer Santenello, I’m getting old, but I love the mix of took our three-year-old with us, Prospect Street Cafe, Bellingham, old school music and cold beer, and and he slept in the booth while we WA The Vermont-born chef landed in the service is great—they really do had omakase [chef’s choice]. Also, Bellingham via Hawaii, where he spent remember your name. Hopworks [brewpub in Portland]. It’s several years surfing and running very family friendly, and the beer and a catering company on Kauai. He’s Cocktails? Three-way tie: The Refinery food is great, too! adapted to his new surroundings— on Granville Street, L’Abattoir in these days he mountain bikes and Gastown, and West restaurant. In each Where’s next on your to-go list? snowboards—and has Bellingham’s place I just ask the bartender to make Canlis in Seattle. foodies buzzing. me whatever they feel like, and it’s always killer. Chef Matt Batey, Terrace, What is your “go to” comfort food? Kelowna, BC Overlooking Lake Eggs over-easy, rice, and ahi poke Cheap and fast lunch? Thai Basil off Okanagan, Mission Hill Family Estate (raw Hawaiian-style fish salad). Soy Davie Street is fresh, bright, and tasty. is the site of Terrace restaurant, sauce ketchup and sambal are the It’s also family-run and a terrific value. home of hands-down one of the most condiments. I eat it in the a.m. before beautiful, panoramic backdrops in the a day of shredding my downhill bike. Romantic dinner? La Belle Auberge Pacific Northwest. Chef Batey serves Fish Express in Lihue, Kauai, has great in Ladner. The food is classic French, immaculate dishes that showcase ahi poke. If you are ever in Lihue be and the setting is beautiful: a heritage local ingredients, seamlessly pairing sure to check out Hamura’s Saimin, house filled with antiques. with the winery’s all-encompassing an old-school Hawaiian-style budget philosophy of perfection—in its noodle restaurant. What restaurant do you think is Chef Jason Stoneburner, architecture, winemaking, and cuisine. doing the most exciting food in the Bastille, Seattle, WA, sources EST. 1987 | NORTHWEST PALATE | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2011 2 3 Best place for a late-night bite? The Shot and a beer after work with the Best Italian. La Boca for simple, Granville Island and cook them up at Prospect Street Cafe after hours when guys? The Keg on Thurlow and Alberni delicious Italian food. Clams and home with friends. all the civilians have left. Great creative at the moment. But, by the time this chorizo pasta with a glass of milk—me thrown-together meals! goes to print, my new place might be and my son Ayden always have milk Favorite winter cocktail? This is a open, so I might have a new favorite. with dinner. new one that is going to keep me warm Shot and a beer after work? The last through the winter. Jesse Walters, shot I had came out my nose. Instead, Cocktails? The Keefer Bar. I like it barman at Refuel, created it for me. I go for beer at the Grand, or wine at when guests ask for recommendations Stregga, St. Germain, gin, and egg Temple Bar. from servers/bartenders/chefs. I feel white. I think we are going to name that they get the best by doing that. it “Chefs Ride,” since Stregga means Lunch? Old World Deli, more than once So, when I go to the Keefer, I ask Dani “witch” and it is the big joke at work, a week. A Que Taco on Sammish Way. (Tatarin, bartender/co-owner) what that the broom is my ride. Grahm’s Store Bagels in Glacier when she thinks I’d like and go with that. So riding Mt. Baker or Glacier. far, no disappointments. What restaurant do you think is doing the most exciting food in Vancouver Romantic dinner? Cafe Juanita in Cheap and fast lunch? Always, always right now? I don’t know if I could pick Kirkland—romantic, refined, and the chicken wings and the calamari one restaurant that excites me the fabulous! at Phnom Penh Restaurant on East Chef Jane Cornborough, most. There are definitely chefs that Georgia Street. Refuel, Vancouver, BC, is diminutive I find exciting and love collaborating Big breakfast? The Fork at Agate of physique compared to her mentor with and are very inspirational to me. Bay—great food, service, atmosphere. A big ol’ breakfast? Deacon’s Corner. Robert Belcham, the chef/owner Chefs like Andrea Carlson (Bishops), In Seattle, Hi Spot Cafe. Again, always, always the biscuits and of Refuel and a growing number of Alvin Pillay (The Irish Heather), Ted gravy with sunnyside-up eggs. Vancouver restaurants, but don’t let Anderson (Campagnolo ROMA), and What restaurant do you think is doing that fool you: she’s a big talent in the Adam Vaughan (Campagnolo). the most exciting food in the Pacific Buying wine? Marquis Wine Cellars kitchen. Her culinary career began at Northwest right now? In Seattle I on Davie. I love the Pinot Gris, in Mission Hill Family Estate in Kelowna, usually eat at Joule or Revel—from food to concept, both are great.