eat & Drink

like a chef hefs work hard, play harder, and many eat and drink with as much gusto as, if C not more than, we “civilians” do. When they aren’t hitched to their own kitchens, chefs stray into the territory of their culinary peers during off-hours. It’s partly to take stock of the “competition,” at times to draw culinary inspiration, but more often than not, simply to enjoy being on the receiving end of the service side for a change and have some fun away from the ball and chain of their own restaurant. So when chefs dish on their favorite bars and restaurants, we listen. Here’s a list of the places that earn their hard-earned money after a shift or on that rare night off. We’d be wise eaters to follow in their clog steps. —By peter szymczak

2 2 november/december 2011 | Northwest Palate | est. 1987 www.northwestpalate.com Pacific Northwest right now?T he Pear produce from his own rooftop garden He also loves to travel the region in Tree. Chef Scott Jaeger never serves at the restaurant in the Fremont search of food and drink excellence. something until he has the execution neighborhood. He’s also a big completely nailed, and I’m always supporter of the Ballard Farmers Best place for a late-night bite? blown away by the amazing, modern Market, which takes place year round Frites and aioli at Waterfront Wines dishes. in front of the restaurant, and is an avid (Kelowna). surfer. Cocktails? L’Abattoir in Gastown Where is the best place to tank up (). before hitting the waves? I drink tons of coffee on the drive to the coast Cheap and fast lunch? Noodle Box Chef Hamid Salimian, Diva because I’m trying to maintain my (Victoria). at the Met, Vancouver, BC, is one of buoyancy, but afterwards I enjoy lots the city’s foremost practitioners of of Dungeness crab and beer at Brady’s Romantic dinner? Also in Victoria, molecular gastronomy—think cotton Oysters in Aberdeen, Washington. Brasserie L’Ecole is awesome every candy pizza, foams, and plates with time. The romance is in the food— painted sauces. The Persian chef What is your “go to” comfort food? It there is love in that cooking! represented Canada at the World changes, pizza to izakaya—but lately Chef Justin Wills, Restaurant Culinary Olympics and Bocuse d’Or. it’s been udon at Showa in Fremont. What other restaurant offers a great Beck, Depoe Bay, OR, is upping view to pair with the food? As an avid the coastal cuisine ante, playing to What is your “go to” comfort food? Lunch? The tofu rice bowl at Revel is motorist, Chuckanut Drive through a crowd of in-the-know locals and Kabab kobideh. There’s a small place flavor country. Fairhaven (in Bellingham, WA) is guests staying at the Whale Cove on Denman Street, Mediterranean Grill, a must. A good bowl of soup at the Inn. When he’s not searching for where they cook to order and have a Romantic dinner? Boat Street Cafe Calaphon Café with the adjoining book sustainable seafood and locally great spice:fat:meat ratio. You see lots yields a home run every time. and cook shops make this a pretty foraged ingredients, he spends his free of Middle Eastern cabbies and limo regular destination. time with his wife and young son, and drivers lined up out front, so you know What restaurant do you think is doing enjoys making forays to Portland to it’s good. the most exciting food in Seattle sample the city’s fare. right now? La Bête maintains a great Best place for a late-night bite? balance of creativity without smoke Best place for a late-night bite? Tsui Hang Village at Davie and and mirrors. When we are in Portland, we like going Granville. It’s open until 4 a.m. and to Oba for their late-night happy hour. actually has decent Chinese food. I What other restaurant does a good tend to get the eggplant hotpot. job of using the bounty of local Cheap and fast lunch? Mio Sushi on produce? Emmer & Rye stays true to Hawthorne or Pho Van. Shot and a beer after work with the sourcing locally and produces tasty guys? For years and years, we’ve food. Best place to go with the whole gone to the Granville Room. I guess family? is awesome. We even Chef Spencer Santenello, I’m getting old, but I love the mix of took our three-year-old with us, Prospect Street Cafe, Bellingham, old school music and cold beer, and and he slept in the booth while we WA The Vermont-born chef landed in the service is great—they really do had omakase [chef’s choice]. Also, Bellingham via Hawaii, where he spent remember your name. Hopworks [brewpub in Portland]. It’s several years surfing and running very family friendly, and the beer and a catering company on Kauai. He’s Cocktails? Three-way tie: The Refinery food is great, too! adapted to his new surroundings— on Granville Street, L’Abattoir in these days he mountain bikes and Gastown, and West restaurant. In each Where’s next on your to-go list? snowboards—and has Bellingham’s place I just ask the bartender to make Canlis in Seattle. foodies buzzing. me whatever they feel like, and it’s always killer. Chef Matt Batey, Terrace, What is your “go to” comfort food? Kelowna, BC Overlooking Lake Eggs over-easy, rice, and ahi poke Cheap and fast lunch? Thai Basil off Okanagan, Mission Hill Family Estate (raw Hawaiian-style fish salad). Soy Davie Street is fresh, bright, and tasty. is the site of Terrace restaurant, sauce ketchup and sambal are the It’s also family-run and a terrific value. home of hands-down one of the most condiments. I eat it in the a.m. before beautiful, panoramic backdrops in the a day of shredding my downhill bike. Romantic dinner? La Belle Auberge Pacific Northwest. Chef Batey serves Fish Express in Lihue, Kauai, has great in Ladner. The food is classic French, immaculate dishes that showcase ahi poke. If you are ever in Lihue be and the setting is beautiful: a heritage local ingredients, seamlessly pairing sure to check out Hamura’s Saimin, house filled with antiques. with the winery’s all-encompassing an old-school Hawaiian-style budget philosophy of perfection—in its noodle restaurant. What restaurant do you think is Chef Jason Stoneburner, architecture, winemaking, and cuisine. doing the most exciting food in the Bastille, Seattle, WA, sources

est. 1987 | Northwest Palate | november/december 2011 2 3 Best place for a late-night bite? The Shot and a beer after work with the Best Italian. La Boca for simple, Granville Island and cook them up at Prospect Street Cafe after hours when guys? The Keg on Thurlow and Alberni delicious Italian food. Clams and home with friends. all the civilians have left. Great creative at the moment. But, by the time this chorizo pasta with a glass of milk—me thrown-together meals! goes to print, my new place might be and my son Ayden always have milk Favorite winter cocktail? This is a open, so I might have a new favorite. with dinner. new one that is going to keep me warm Shot and a beer after work? The last through the winter. Jesse Walters, shot I had came out my nose. Instead, Cocktails? The Keefer Bar. I like it barman at Refuel, created it for me. I go for beer at the Grand, or wine at when guests ask for recommendations Stregga, St. Germain, gin, and egg Temple Bar. from servers/bartenders/chefs. I feel white. I think we are going to name that they get the best by doing that. it “Chefs Ride,” since Stregga means Lunch? Old World Deli, more than once So, when I go to the Keefer, I ask Dani “witch” and it is the big joke at work, a week. A Que Taco on Sammish Way. (Tatarin, bartender/co-owner) what that the broom is my ride. Grahm’s Store Bagels in Glacier when she thinks I’d like and go with that. So riding Mt. Baker or Glacier. far, no disappointments. What restaurant do you think is doing the most exciting food in Vancouver Romantic dinner? Cafe Juanita in Cheap and fast lunch? Always, always right now? I don’t know if I could pick Kirkland—romantic, refined, and the chicken wings and the calamari one restaurant that excites me the fabulous! at Phnom Penh Restaurant on East Chef Jane Cornborough, most. There are definitely chefs that Georgia Street. Refuel, Vancouver, BC, is diminutive I find exciting and love collaborating Big breakfast? The Fork at Agate of physique compared to her mentor with and are very inspirational to me. Bay—great food, service, atmosphere. A big ol’ breakfast? Deacon’s Corner. Robert Belcham, the chef/owner Chefs like Andrea Carlson (Bishops), In Seattle, Hi Spot Cafe. Again, always, always the biscuits and of Refuel and a growing number of Alvin Pillay (The Irish Heather), Ted gravy with sunnyside-up eggs. Vancouver restaurants, but don’t let Anderson (Campagnolo ROMA), and What restaurant do you think is doing that fool you: she’s a big talent in the Adam Vaughan (Campagnolo). the most exciting food in the Pacific Buying wine? Marquis Wine Cellars kitchen. Her culinary career began at Northwest right now? In Seattle I on Davie. I love the Pinot Gris, in Mission Hill Family Estate in Kelowna, usually eat at Joule or Revel—from food to concept, both are great.

Where’s next on your to-go list? I like it when guests ask I need to try the Willows Inn (on for recommendations from Lummi Island) and Josh Silverman’s servers/bartenders/chefs. newly opened noodle bar, Dashi (in Bellingham). I feel that they get the best by doing that. —chef dale MacKay Chef David Anderson, , Portland, OR Over the past 30-plus years Genoa, the landmark Italian particular, from Laughing Stock then saw her take on New York City, restaurant in southeast Portland, has Vineyards in Naramata. where she spent time in the kitchens launched the careers of local star at Le Bernardin, Daniel, and Aquavit. chefs like former co-owner Cathy Favorite winter cocktail? Bar Manager Whims (), John Taboada Cho’s new fall drink called simply “Hot What is your “go to” comfort food? (Navarre/Luce), Tommy Habetz Tea.” It’s got Bailey’s, St. Remy Brandy, Fermented sausages and curry at (Bunk), and Kevin Gibson (Evoe). Cointreau, honey, and a pot of Earl Maenam. Today, chef David Anderson has taken Chef Dale MacKay, Ensemble, Grey tea served tableside in a mug up the torch, crafting five-course Vancouver, BC Still fresh from his win with a cinnamon stick swizzle. Yum! Best place for a late-night bite? menus that change with the seasons. on season one of , Suika for Japanese and Campagnolo chef Dale MacKay stays busy as a What restaurant do you think is doing for pizza. Best place for comfort food? Grain single father and the opening of his the most exciting food in Vancouver and Gristle or Hopworks for a burger— second restaurant, an upscale pub, in right now? Hawksworth. Chef David Romantic dinner? Le Quercia. always with blue cheese and of downtown Vancouver this fall. Hawksworth does a really good job of course, good beer. showcasing BC products in a clean, Gorging on spot prawns? I would Best place for a late-night bite? GUU simple way that really brings out the attend Refuel’s annual BC Spot Prawn Wintertime beverage? Beer, always Japanese is right next door, which is best in the ingredients. Simple isn’t Boil, where there is no shortage of seasonal, lots of hoppy styles and pretty handy. I almost always have the simple, it’s super hard. David is an prawns dumped onto the table, or bocks right now. kimchi fried rice. It is a favorite of many excellent example of a great chef I would buy directly from Organic Ensemble cooks. making simple look easy. Oceans at Fisherman’s Wharf, near Most exciting restaurant in Portland?

2 4 november/december 2011 | Northwest Palate | est. 1987 www.northwestpalate.com is still doing the most exciting Where would you earn frequent food and maybe more so now. I’m diner miles? One place we always DELICIOUS FOOD excited to see the Woodsman. I also love going back to is Tabla Restaurant think is really underrated. [in Portland]. And, when we’re in the FRIENDLY PEOPLE mood for sushi, Murata is one of our favorites. They always have very interesting daily specials and we love the omakase menu.

Chef Allen Routt, The Painted Lady Restaurant, Newberg, OR His colorful career includes cheffing gigs in Napa Valley, New York, San Francisco, Miami, Las Vegas, and Washington, DC. Chef Chris DiMinno, Clyde But after a trip to Oregon’s Willamette Common, Portland, OR Before moving Valley, he decided to settle down in west to become the executive chef Newberg, Oregon. Since 2005, he and at , DiMinno worked his wife Jessica (who oversees the alongside renowned chef/farmer Dan front of the house and also makes Barber at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in pastries) have earned raves at their New York. restaurant, housed in a beautifully renovated Victorian painted aqua, Best place for a beer after work with mustard, eggplant, and oyster white. the guys? APEX, which has 50 rotating beers on tap. What is your “go to” comfort food? Steak and potatoes at Ringside in Cocktails? Other than Clyde, I love Portland. .

st H Shot and a beer after work with the Romantic dinner? Bar Avignon at 21 guys? Voodoo Martini Bar [Newberg]. and SE Division. H Lunch in wine country? I like Red A big ol’ breakfast? hands Hills Market. It’s a great neighborhood down. It’s worth the wait.     market serving up local products and   delicious house-crafted sandwiches. Gorging on Northwest shellfish?I love ’s version of Favorite winter cocktail? During mussels frites. the wintertime, my go-to cocktail concoction is Ransom Old Tom Gin with Favorite place to buy wine? bitters, ginger, and lime. Pastaworks. They have a tailored selection of interesting wines. What restaurant do you think is doing the most exciting food in the What restaurant do you think is doing Pacific Northwest right now?I have the most exciting food in Portland heard a lot of positive feedback about right now? Greg Denton at MetroVino. Restaurant Beck on the Oregon Coast. I am really looking forward to trying it. Clyde Common is known for its communal table? What other Where do you go to be pampered? restaurants do a good job of making The Herbfarm in Woodinville, WA diners feel comfortably social? offers quite an intimate, fine dining Olympic Provisions, Olympic Meats, experience. are a few.

www.northwestpalate.com est. 1987 | Northwest Palate | november/december 2011 2 5