Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 310 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Henrik Lorentsen, Gitte Kærsgaard, Henrik OUR READERS Sieverts Ørvad, Brian Jakobsen and René Many thanks to the travellers who used the Ørum for their insights and generosity. Last but last edition and wrote to us with helpful not least, a big thank you to my ever-diligent hints, useful advice and interesting anec- co-writer and friend, Carolyn Bain. dotes: Gillians Jeens, Henrik Hytteballe, Jackie Mc- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Cormack, Julie Woods, Krill Koroteev, Matthias Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Vogel, Rosette Claes Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System AUTHOR THANKS Sciences, 11, 163344 Carolyn Bain Cover photograph: Beach house in Ærø; An- At Lonely Planet, my thanks to DE Gemma drew Rich, Getty Images. Graham for encouraging and accommodating further Nordic wanderings. Big bouquets to my ‘The year has 16 months’ © Henrik Nordbrandt genius co-author, Cristian Bonetto, for being 1986. Used by permission of the publisher. equally passionate about Denmark and gener- ous with your knowledge. Heartfelt gratitude goes to my Danish family, the Østergaards – your warm welcome and generosity in Skagen, Sunds and Svendborg mean the world to me. To the good folks of Ærø, thanks for a most hyggelig island stay. To all the Danes who rent- ed me apartments, answered my questions, indulged my Eurovision fixation and generally made this trip such a joy: tusind tak. Cristian Bonetto Tusind tak to Martin Kalhoj, Christian Struck- mann Irgens, Mette Cecilie Perle Smedegaard, Grete Seidler, Mia Hjorth Lunde, Jens Lunde, BEHIND THE SCENES Destination Editor Assisting Editors THIS BOOK Gemma Graham Jodie Martire, Jenna Myers This 7th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editor Cartographer Planet’s Denmark was Samantha Forge James Leversha researched and written by Product Editor Cover Researcher Carolyn Bain and Cristian Stephanie Ong Naomi Parker Bonetto. The 6th edition Senior Cartographer Thanks to Claire Naylor, was researched and written Valentina Kremenchutskaya Samantha Tyson, Ryan by Carolyn Bain, Cristian Evans, Larissa Frost, Jouve Bonetto and Andrew Stone. Book Designer Wendy India, Martine Power, Wayne This guidebook was pro- Wright Murphy duced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 312 Index The Danish language akvavit 284 Esbjerg Kunstmuseum Marstal 183 places the letters æ, Allinge 153-4 189 northern Jutland 257 ø and å at the end of Als 204 Faaborg Museum 171 Tisvildeleje 107 the alphabet. Amalienborg Slot 56 Fuglsang Kunstmuseum Tornby Strand 256 amusement & theme 139 Ulvshale Strand 131 A parks 36 Glasmuseet Ebeltoft 221 beer 21, 280, 283-4, see Aalborg 241-8, 244 Bakken 92 HEART 228 also breweries accommodation 243, 245 Djurs Sommerland 224 Hirschsprung 60 bicycle travel, see cycling activities 241, 243 Fårup Sommerland 257-8 Johannes Larsen Museet Billund 231-4 168 drinking 246-7 Lalandia (Billund) 232 bird-watching KunstCentret Silkeborg festivals & events 243 Lalandia (Lolland) 140 Christiansø 155-6 Bad 225 food 245-6 Legoland 12, 18, 231-4, 12 Fanø 192 Kunsten 243 information 247 Middelaldercentret 136 Funen 179 Louisiana 91 sights 241, 243 Tivoli Friheden 213 Møn 131 Museum Jorn 224-5 travel to/from 247 Tivoli Gardens 24, 45, 66 Wadden Sea National Nikolaj Kunsthal 50 travel within 247-8 Andersen, Hans Christian Park 198 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek 59, 285 Black Diamond 54, 277, 20 Aalborg Karneval 21, 243, 22 48-9 festivals 24, 163 Blixen, Karen 96, 97, 287 Aarhus 15, 18, 208-21, Ordrupgaard 92 museums 159 blokarts 192, 199 210-11, 15 Ribe Kunstmuseum 195 sites 286 boat travel 299-301, accommodation 214-15 Skagens Museum 251 activities 213 aquariums see also kayaking & Statens Museum for canoeing, sailing children, travel with 213 Aqua 225 Kunst 58-9 boat trips drinking 217 Den Blå Planet 18, 63 Thorvaldsens Museum 50 Copenhagen 62, 63 entertainment 217-18 Fiskeri- og V1 Gallery 61 Søfartsmuseet 189 Esbjerg 189 festivals & events 214 Assistens Kirkegård 60 Fjord & Bælt 168 Maribo 139 food 216-17 ATMs 294 Odense 163 history 208 Kattegatcentret 223 Ry 228-9 information 219 Nordsøen Oceanarium 255 Silkeborg 225 itineraries 209 B architecture 20, 276-8, Bakken 92 Svendborg 173 shopping 218-19 see also individual Bangsbo 248 Viborg 237 sights 208-9, 212-13 architects beaches bog bodies tours 214 area codes 17, 296 Copenhagen 61 Grauballe Man 13, 209, travel to/from 219-20 Arken Museum of Modern Dueodde 146, 14 267 travel within 220-1 Art 92 Ebeltoft 221 Tollund Man 13,224, Aarhus Domkirke 209 ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum Fanø 191-2 267, 13 Aarhus Festival 23, 214 208 Funen 182 Bogø 135 accommodation 290-2, see art museums Gammel Skagen 14, 252 books 262, 272, 279, see also individual locations Arken Museum of Modern also literature Art 92 Gilleleje 106 activities 19-20, 21-4, 30-4, border crossings 297 see also individual ARoS Aarhus Grenaa 223 Bornholm 10, 39, 141-56, activities Kunstmuseum 208 Hornbæk 105 142, 10 air travel 297, 300 Bornholms Kunstmuseum Hvide Sande 14, 238 accommodation 141 152 Klintholm Havn 134 climate 141 Brandts 161 Klitmøller 14, 260 food 141 Map Pages 000 Carl-Henning Pedersen & Køge 115 Else Alfelt Museum 228 highlights 142 Photo Pages 000 Løkken 258 Davids Samling 59-60 travel seasons 141 313 travel to/from 142-3 Charlottenlund 92 highlights 44 Aalborg 246 travel within 143 children, travel with 19, history 43, 45 Aarhus 214 Bornholms Kunstmuseum 35-7, 67, 213, see also information 88-9 Copenhagen 89 152 amusement & theme itineraries 43 Djursland 221-4 Boxen 228 parks, aquariums, zoos & safari parks shopping 85-8 Dragsholm Slot 113 Brahe, Tycho 49, 61 Christiansø 155-6 sights 45, 48-51, 54-61 drinks 283-4, see also beer, Brandts 161 breweries INDEX churches & cathedrals, see tours 63, 65 Bregninge 177 also monasteries travel seasons 42 driving 298, 301-2 breweries 61, 183, 283-4 Aarhus Domkirke 209 travel to/from 89 Dueodde 146-7, 14 budgeting 17 Bregninge Kirke 177 travel within 89-91 Dybbøl Mølle 204 B-F burial mounds & passage Budolfi Domkirke 241 walking tour 64, 64 graves Elmelunde Kirke 132 Copenhagen Blues Festival Grønsalen 134 E Fanefjord Kirke 134 24, 65-6 Ebeltoft 221-3 Jelling Kirke 230 Holmens Kirke 55 Copenhagen Fashion economy 263 Klekkende Høj 134 Week 21 Jelling Kirke 230 Egeskov Slot 170 Kong Asgers Høj 134 Copenhagen Jazz Festival Keldby Kirke 131-2 electricity 292 Lindholm Høje 243 11, 23, 65, 84 Kristkirken 201 Elmelunde 132 Møn 134 Copenhagen Pride 23, 65 Maribo Domkirke 139 Elmelunde Kirke 132 bus travel 298, 301 costs 17, see also money Marmorkirken 56-7 Elmelundemesteren 132 bushwalking, see hiking CPH:PIX 21, 65 Møgeltønder Kirke 202 embassies 293 business hours 295 credit cards 294 Nylars Rundkirke 144-5 emergencies 17, 307 Bycyklen 90 culture 262, 273, 275 Ribe Domkirke 193 currency 16 environmental issues Roskilde Domkirke customs regulations 292 climate change 297 109-11 C cycling 10, 30-1 sustainability 263 camping 290-1 Rømø Kirke 199 Aarhus 214, 220 Thomas B Thriges canoeing, see Sankt Bendts Kirke 117 Gade 163 Bornholm 31 kayaking & canoeing Sankt Catharinæ Kirke Ertholmene Islands 155-6 car travel 298, 301-2 194-5 Copenhagen 57, 62-3, 65, 66, 90 Esbjerg 188-91, 190 Carlsberg Visitors Sankt Knuds Kirke 162 Esrum Kloster 102 Centre 61 Dyrehaven 92 Sankt Mariæ Kirke & Esrum Sø 104 castles & palaces, see also Karmeliterklostret 99 Funen 172 events 21-4, see also fortresses mountain biking 236 Sankt Nicolai Kirke festivals Amalienborg Slot 56 114-15 routes 31, 32 Art Copenhagen 24, 65 Dragsholm Slot 113 Sankt Olai Domkirke 99 rules 66 Christmas Fairs 24 Egeskov Slot 170 Sorø Kirke 120-1 Ry 229 Copenhagen Fashion Silkeborg 225-6 Fredensborg Slot 103 Stege Kirke 129 Week 21 travel to/from Denmark Frederiksborg Slot 101-2 Sæby Klosterkirke 249 Kulturhavn 65 298 Gråsten Palace 202 Viborg Domkirke 237 Kulturnatten 24, 66 Koldinghus 186-7 Vor Frelsers Kirke 58 travel within Denmark 300 Sculpture by the Sea Kronborg Slot 12, 97, 12 Vor Frue Kirke 49-50, 22, 214 Cykelslangen 57 Marselisborg Palace & 212 exchange rates 17 Park 213 Østerlars Rundkirke 152 Rosenborg Slot 59 climate 16, 21-4, 34, 42, D Schackenborg 202 see also individual Danmarks Borgcenter 18, F Faaborg 170-3, Søbygaard 184 regions 124-5 171 Falster 39, 126, 135-8, Sønderborg Slot 203 climate change 297 Davids Samling 59-60 127, 135 Tranekær Slot 178 consulates 293 De Kongelige accommodation 126 Valdemars Slot 176-7 Copenhagen 9, 38, 42-91, Repræsentationslokaler 44, 46-7,