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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 310

Behind the Scenes

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Henrik Lorentsen, Gitte Kærsgaard, Henrik OUR READERS Sieverts Ørvad, Brian Jakobsen and René Many thanks to the travellers who used the Ørum for their insights and generosity. Last but last edition and wrote to us with helpful not least, a big thank you to my ever-diligent hints, useful advice and interesting anec- co-writer and friend, Carolyn Bain. dotes: Gillians Jeens, Henrik Hytteballe, Jackie Mc- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Cormack, Julie Woods, Krill Koroteev, Matthias Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Vogel, Rosette Claes Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System AUTHOR THANKS Sciences, 11, 163344

Carolyn Bain Cover photograph: Beach house in Ærø; An- At Lonely Planet, my thanks to DE Gemma drew Rich, Getty Images. Graham for encouraging and accommodating further Nordic wanderings. Big bouquets to my ‘The year has 16 months’ © Henrik Nordbrandt genius co-author, Cristian Bonetto, for being 1986. Used by permission of the publisher. equally passionate about and gener- ous with your knowledge. Heartfelt gratitude goes to my Danish family, the Østergaards – your warm welcome and generosity in , Sunds and mean the world to me. To the good folks of Ærø, thanks for a most hyggelig island stay. To all the Danes who rent- ed me apartments, answered my questions, indulged my Eurovision fixation and generally made this trip such a joy: tusind tak. Cristian Bonetto Tusind tak to Martin Kalhoj, Christian Struck- mann Irgens, Mette Cecilie Perle Smedegaard, Grete Seidler, Mia Hjorth Lunde, Jens Lunde, BEHIND THE SCENES

Claire Naylor, Claire Naylor, Naomi Parker Naomi Thanks to Ryan Samantha Tyson, Jouve Larissa Frost, Evans, Wayne India, Martine Power, Murphy Assisting Editors Jenna Jodie Myers Martire, Cartographer James Leversha Researcher Cover

Wendy Wendy Stephanie Ong Stephanie CartographerSenior Kremenchutskaya Valentina Designer Book Wright Destination Editor Graham Gemma Coordinating Editor Forge Samantha Editor Product - was Denmark by by Carolyn Bain, Cristian Stone. Andrew and Bonetto pro was guidebook This following: the by duced Planet’s Planet’s by written and researched Cristian and Bain Carolyn The 6th Bonetto. edition written and researched was THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 312

Index

The akvavit 284 Esbjerg Kunstmuseum Marstal 183 places the letters æ, Allinge 153-4 189 northern 257 ø and å at the end of 204 Museum 171 Tisvildeleje 107 the alphabet. Slot 56 Fuglsang Kunstmuseum Tornby Strand 256 amusement & theme 139 Strand 131 A parks 36 Glasmuseet Ebeltoft 221 beer 21, 280, 283-4, see Aalborg 241-8, 244 Bakken 92 HEART 228 also breweries accommodation 243, 245 Djurs Sommerland 224 Hirschsprung 60 bicycle travel, see cycling activities 241, 243 Fårup Sommerland 257-8 Johannes Larsen Museet Billund 231-4 168 drinking 246-7 Lalandia (Billund) 232 bird-watching KunstCentret Silkeborg festivals & events 243 Lalandia () 140 Christiansø 155-6 Bad 225 food 245-6 Legoland 12, 18, 231-4, 12 Fanø 192 Kunsten 243 information 247 136 179 Louisiana 91 sights 241, 243 Friheden 213 Møn 131 Museum Jorn 224-5 travel to/from 247 Tivoli Gardens 24, 45, 66 National Nikolaj Kunsthal 50 travel within 247-8 Andersen, Hans Christian Park 198 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek 59, 285 Black Diamond 54, 277, 20 Aalborg Karneval 21, 243, 22 48-9 festivals 24, 163 Blixen, Karen 96, 97, 287 15, 18, 208-21, Ordrupgaard 92 museums 159 blokarts 192, 199 210-11, 15 Ribe Kunstmuseum 195 sites 286 boat travel 299-301, accommodation 214-15 Museum 251 activities 213 aquariums see also kayaking & Statens Museum for canoeing, sailing children, travel with 213 Aqua 225 Kunst 58-9 boat trips drinking 217 Den Blå Planet 18, 63 Thorvaldsens Museum 50 62, 63 entertainment 217-18 Fiskeri- og V1 Gallery 61 Søfartsmuseet 189 Esbjerg 189 festivals & events 214 Assistens Kirkegård 60 Fjord & Bælt 168 139 food 216-17 ATMs 294 Odense 163 history 208 Kattegatcentret 223 Ry 228-9 information 219 Nordsøen Oceanarium 255 Silkeborg 225 itineraries 209 B architecture 20, 276-8, Bakken 92 Svendborg 173 shopping 218-19 see also individual Bangsbo 248 Viborg 237 sights 208-9, 212-13 architects beaches bodies tours 214 area codes 17, 296 Copenhagen 61 Grauballe Man 13, 209, travel to/from 219-20 Arken Museum of Modern 146, 14 267 travel within 220-1 Art 92 Ebeltoft 221 Tollund Man 13,224, Aarhus Domkirke 209 ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum Fanø 191-2 267, 13 Aarhus Festival 23, 214 208 Funen 182 Bogø 135 accommodation 290-2, see art museums Gammel Skagen 14, 252 books 262, 272, 279, see also individual locations Arken Museum of Modern also literature Art 92 Gilleleje 106 activities 19-20, 21-4, 30-4, border crossings 297 see also individual ARoS Aarhus Grenaa 223 10, 39, 141-56, activities Kunstmuseum 208 Hornbæk 105 142, 10 air travel 297, 300 Kunstmuseum Hvide Sande 14, 238 accommodation 141 152 134 climate 141 Brandts 161 Klitmøller 14, 260 food 141 Map Pages 000 Carl-Henning Pedersen & Køge 115 Else Alfelt Museum 228 highlights 142 Photo Pages 000 Løkken 258 Davids Samling 59-60 travel seasons 141 313 travel to/from 142-3 Charlottenlund 92 highlights 44 Aalborg 246 travel within 143 children, travel with 19, history 43, 45 Aarhus 214 Bornholms Kunstmuseum 35-7, 67, 213, see also information 88-9 Copenhagen 89 152 amusement & theme itineraries 43 Djursland 221-4 Boxen 228 parks, aquariums, zoos & safari parks shopping 85-8 Dragsholm Slot 113 Brahe, Tycho 49, 61 Christiansø 155-6 sights 45, 48-51, 54-61 drinks 283-4, see also beer, Brandts 161 breweries INDEX churches & cathedrals, see tours 63, 65 Bregninge 177 also monasteries travel seasons 42 driving 298, 301-2 breweries 61, 183, 283-4 Aarhus Domkirke 209 travel to/from 89 Dueodde 146-7, 14 budgeting 17 Bregninge Kirke 177 travel within 89-91 Dybbøl Mølle 204  B-F burial mounds & passage  Budolfi Domkirke 241 walking tour 64, 64 graves Elmelunde Kirke 132 Copenhagen Festival Grønsalen 134 E Fanefjord Kirke 134 24, 65-6 Ebeltoft 221-3 Jelling Kirke 230 Holmens Kirke 55 Copenhagen Fashion economy 263 Klekkende Høj 134 Week 21 Jelling Kirke 230 Egeskov Slot 170 Kong Asgers Høj 134 Copenhagen Festival Keldby Kirke 131-2 electricity 292 Høje 243 11, 23, 65, 84 Kristkirken 201 Elmelunde 132 Møn 134 Copenhagen Pride 23, 65 Maribo Domkirke 139 Elmelunde Kirke 132 bus travel 298, 301 costs 17, see also money Marmorkirken 56-7 Elmelundemesteren 132 bushwalking, see hiking CPH:PIX 21, 65 Møgeltønder Kirke 202 embassies 293 business hours 295 credit cards 294 Rundkirke 144-5 emergencies 17, 307 Bycyklen 90 culture 262, 273, 275 Ribe Domkirke 193 currency 16 environmental issues Roskilde Domkirke customs regulations 292 climate change 297 109-11 C cycling 10, 30-1 sustainability 263 camping 290-1 Rømø Kirke 199 Aarhus 214, 220 Thomas B Thriges canoeing, see Sankt Bendts Kirke 117 Gade 163 Bornholm 31 kayaking & canoeing Sankt Catharinæ Kirke Islands 155-6 car travel 298, 301-2 194-5 Copenhagen 57, 62-3, 65, 66, 90 Esbjerg 188-91, 190 Carlsberg Visitors Sankt Knuds Kirke 162 Esrum Kloster 102 Centre 61 Dyrehaven 92 Sankt Mariæ Kirke & Esrum Sø 104 castles & palaces, see also Karmeliterklostret 99 Funen 172 events 21-4, see also fortresses mountain biking 236 Sankt Nicolai Kirke festivals Amalienborg Slot 56 114-15 routes 31, 32 Art Copenhagen 24, 65 Dragsholm Slot 113 Sankt Olai Domkirke 99 rules 66 Christmas Fairs 24 Egeskov Slot 170 Sorø Kirke 120-1 Ry 229 Copenhagen Fashion Silkeborg 225-6 Fredensborg Slot 103 Stege Kirke 129 Week 21 travel to/from Denmark Frederiksborg Slot 101-2 Sæby Klosterkirke 249 Kulturhavn 65 298 Gråsten Palace 202 Viborg Domkirke 237 Kulturnatten 24, 66 186-7 Vor Frelsers Kirke 58 travel within Denmark 300 Sculpture by the Sea Slot 12, 97, 12 Vor Frue Kirke 49-50, 22, 214 Cykelslangen 57 Palace & 212 exchange rates 17 Park 213 Østerlars Rundkirke 152 Rosenborg Slot 59 climate 16, 21-4, 34, 42, D Schackenborg 202 see also individual Danmarks Borgcenter 18, F Faaborg 170-3, Søbygaard 184 regions 124-5 171 39, 126, 135-8, Sønderborg Slot 203 climate change 297 Davids Samling 59-60 127, 135 Tranekær Slot 178 consulates 293 De Kongelige accommodation 126 Valdemars Slot 176-7 Copenhagen 9, 38, 42-91, Repræsentationslokaler 44, 46-7, 52-3, 8 50-1 climate 126 Vallø Slot 119 accommodation 42, Den Blå Planet 18, 63 food 126 cathedrals, see churches & 66-70 cathedrals 208 highlights 127 activities 61-3 cell phones 16, 295 Den Gamle Rådhus 195 travel seasons 126 children, travel with 67 central Jutland 40, 205-39, design 14, 20, 276-8 travel to/from 135 Christiania 57-8 206-7 Designmuseum Danmark travel within 135 56 accommodation 205 drinking 42, 78, 80-2 Fanø 191-2 Det Kongelige Bibliotek 54 climate 205 entertainment 82-5 farmstays 291 disabilities, travellers food 205 festivals & events 65-6 ferries 299-301 with 296 highlights 206 food 42, 70-8, 79 festivals 21-4, see also discount cards 294 events travel seasons 205 free activities 56 314 festivals continued Kastellet 57 Rømo 199 jazz music Aalborg Karneval 21, Trelleborg 122-3 105, 106, 107, 214 243, 22 Fredensborg 103-4 118, 125 Copenhagen Jazz Aarhus Festival 23, 214 Frederiksborg Slot 101-2 Øhavssti 34, 176 Festival 11, 23, 65, 84 Aarhus Jazz Festival 214 Frederikshavn 248-9 Hillerød 101-3 Maribo Jazz Festival 139 beer 21 Frøslevlejren 203 Himmelbjerget 229-30 Riverboat Jazz Festival

INDEX INDEX Copenhagen Blues Frøslevlejrens Museum 203 Hirtshals 255-7 22, 227 Festival 24, 65-6 Fuglsang Kunstmuseum history 264-72 Sorø Jazz 121 Copenhagen Jazz 139 20th century 271-2 Vinterjazz 21

F-L Festival 11, 23, 65, 84  Funen 39, 157-84, 158 21st century 272 Ærø Jazz Festival 180 Copenhagen Pride 23, 65 Jelling 230-1 accommodation 157 books 272  CPH:PIX 21, 65 climate 157 Bronze Age 264 Jelling Kirke 230 film 21, 65, 66, 163 food 157 civil war 268 230, 271 food 23, 24, 283 highlights 158 conflict with Britain Jutland, see central Hamlet Summer Plays travel seasons 157 269-70 Jutland, 12, 23, 99 democracy 270-1 northern Jutland, HC Andersen 24, 163 Iron Age 264 southern Jutland Maribo Jazz Festival 139 G Lutheran Reformation Midsummer Eve 22, 65 galleries, see art museums 268 K NorthSide Festival Gammel Estrup 224 Middle Ages 266-8 Kadeau (Copenhagen) 23, 214 gardens, see parks & monarchy 267, 268-9 18, 75 Rebild Festival 23, 236 gardens Stone Age 264 Karen Blixen Museet gay travellers 23, 65, 293 Riverboat Jazz Festival Thirty Years’ War 268 96-7 22, 227 Geocenter Møns Klint 133 Treaty of Roskilde 269 Kattegatcentret 223 rock & pop music 11, 23, Gilleleje 106-7 Vikings 193, 265 kayaking & canoeing 33-4 112, 201, 214, 253 Givskud 231 war with 268-9 central Jutland 225, 229 23, golf 191 WWII 270, 271-2 Copenhagen 63 112, 11 Gorm the Old 230, 268 Hjørring 257 Funen 183 23, 253 Graceland Randers 234 Hobro 236 Keldby 131-2 Skt Hans Aften 22, 65 Grauballe Man 13, 209, 267 holidays 295 Keldby Kirke 131-2 23 Grenaa 223 Holmens Kirke 55 Kerteminde 168-9 Sol over 251-2, 13 23, 152 Hornbæk 104-6 Kierkegaard, Søren 60, 106, Gråbrødrekloster Museet horse riding 199, 239 270, 285 Sort Sol 21, 198 241 Humlebæk 91 kitesurfing Sorø Jazz 121 Gråsten 202 Hvide Sande 14, 238-9 central Jutland 239 Strøm 24, 65 Gråsten Palace 202 Tønder Festival 23, 201 hygge 274 northern Jutland 260 Gudhjem 150-1, 151 Viking Moot 23, 214 Høeg, Peter 262, 286, southern Jutland 192, 199 Vinter Jazz 21, 65 288 Klampenborg 92 Ærø Jazz Festival 180 H Klintholm Havn 134 Ølfestival 21 Hallegård 147 I Klitmøller 14, 260 films 262, 286-8 Hamlet 12, 23, 99 Imax Tycho Brahe Safari Park 155 Planetarium 61 festivals 21, 65, 66, 163 140 food 19, 279-83, 293, Slot 154-5 immigration 296, 297 Kolding 186-8, 188 see also individual 259 insurance 293-4 Koldinghus 186-7 locations HC Andersens Hus 159 internet access 294 Kommandørgården 199 festivals 23, 24, 283 health 293 internet resources 17 Kongernes Jelling 230 highlights 19, 282 HEART 228 cycling 31 Korsør 124 language 305-7 Helsingør 97-101, 98 transport 300 Kronborg Slot 12, 97, New Nordic cuisine 9, Henne Kirkeby 238 Ishøj 92 12 Krølle Bølle 155 18, 279, 9 Herning 228 islands 19, 176, see also Noma 9, 75, 279 hiking 30, 34 individual islands Kulturnatten 24, 66 Kunsten 243 fortresses, see also castles Aarhus 213 itineraries 25-9, 25, 26, & palaces Archipelago Trail 34, 176 28, 29 Kvindemuseet 212 Fyrkat 236 Bornholm 146, 150, 155 Køge 114-19, 115 Hammershus Slot 154-5 central Jutland 229, 235-6 J Jacobsen, Arne 213, 276, L Copenhagen 92 277 Ladby 169-70 Map Pages 000 Funen 172 Jacobsen, Carl 59 Ladbyskibet 14, 169-70 Photo Pages 000 Silkeborg 225-6 Lake District 224-30 315 177-80, 177 museums, see also Skovsgaard 179 highlights 242 language 16 art museums, open-air Sorø Kunstmuseum 121 travel seasons 240 accommodation 304-5 museums, war Stevns Museum 118 travel within 256 museums emergencies 307 Sæby Museum 249 Nykøbing F 136-7 Aalborg Historiske food 305-7 Museum 241 Teatermuseet 51 Nylars Rundkirke 144-5 transport 308 Bangsbo Museum 248 Thorsvang 129 131 INDEX INDEX Larsen, Henning 277 Bornholms Museum 143 Trapholt 187 Nørre Vorupør 18, 259 legal matters 294 Danmarks Borgcenter Tønder Museum 201 Legoland 12, 18, 231-4, 12 18, 124-5 Utzon Center 241

-O  L Lejre 113-14 Danmarks Rockmuseum Viking Ship Museum Odense 18, 159-68, 160-1  P 109, 15 lesbian travellers 23, 18, 111 accommodation 163-4 65, 293 Vikingemuseet (Aarhus) Den Gamle By 208 drinking 166 literature 97, 285-6, see 213 Designmuseum entertainment 166-7 also books Danmark 56 Vikingemuseet Ladby festivals & events 163 Little Mermaid 59 Elvis Presley Museum 234 169-70 food 164, 166 Lolland 39, 138-40, 127, Empiregården 129-30 music, see also jazz music, rock & pop music history 159 138 Forsorgsmuseet 173 Copenhagen Blues information 167 accommodation 126 Fregatten Jylland 221 Festival 24, 65-6 sights 159, 161-3 climate 126 Frilandsmuseet Maribo Sorø International Music 139 travel to/from 167 food 126 Festival 121 Gammel Estrup 224 travel within 167-8 highlights 127 Strøm 24, 65 Geocenter Møns Klint walking tour 165, 165 travel seasons 126 Tønder Festival 23, 201 133 Oluf Høst Museet 150 travel to/from 138-9 Musikhuset Esbjerg 189 Gråbrødrekloster Museet open-air museums travel within 138-9 Musikkens Hus 241 Louisiana 91 241 Bornholms Møgeltønder 202-3 Middelaldercenter Lyngby 92 Hammerichs Hus 181 Møgeltønder Kirke 202 Open-Air Museum 152 Læsø 250 HC Andersens Barndomshjem 159 Møn 39, 128-35, 127, 128 Den Fynske Landsby Løkken 257-9 HC Andersens Hus 159 accommodation 126 162-3 Helsingør Bymuseum climate 126 Frilandsmuseet 92 M 99-100 highlights 127 Ribe VikingeCenter 195 magazines 294 Karen Blixen Museet travel seasons 126 Sagnlandet Lejre 113-14 Marchal 18, 68 96-7 travel to/from 128 Skagen By- og Maribo 139-40 Koldinghus 186-7 Møns Klint 132-3 Egnsmuseum 252 Marielyst 137-8 Kongernes Jelling 230 Vikingecenter Fyrkat 236 Marstal 183-4 Kongernes Lapidarium opening hours 295 measures 294 51, 54 N opera 83 national parks medical services 293 Kvindemuseet 212 Operaen 83 Køge Museum 114 Mols Bjerge National Ordrupgaard 92 Melsted 150-1, 151 Park 222 Maritimt Center Dan- Mennesket ved Havet Oreby Kro 136 mark 173 Rebild Bakker 235-7 189 Marstal Søfartsmuseum National Park 259 Midsummer Eve 22, 65 183 Wadden Sea National P mobile phones 16, 295 Moesgård Museum Park 18, 198, 222 Padborg 203 Moesgård 209 209, 267 Nationalmuseet 45, 267 palaces, see castles & Moesgård Museum 209, M/S Museet for Søfart Naturama 173 palaces 267 18, 99 NaturBornholm 146 parks & gardens Mols Bjerge National Museet Ribes Vikinger 195 New Nordic cuisine 9, 18, Bangsbo Botaniske Park 222 Museum Silkeborg 279, 9 Have 248 monarchy 267, 268-9 224, 267 newspapers 294 Botanisk Have (Aarhus) monasteries, see also 209 Møntergården 161-2 Nexø 147-8 churches & cathedrals Botanisk Have Nationalmuseet 45, 267 Nielsen, Carl 162 Esrum Kloster 102 (Copenhagen) 60 NaturBornholm 146 Nordby 191 Helligåndsklostret 241 Fredensborg Slotshave Oluf Høst Museet 150 Nordkraft 241 money 16, 17, 294-5 103-4 Rock & Roll Museum Nordsøen Oceanarium 255 Indelukket 225 motorcycle travel 298, 18, 111 301-2 northern Jutland 40, Kongens Have 59 Ribe VikingeCenter 195 240-60, 242 mountain biking 236, see 133 Rudolph Tegners accommodation 240 also cycling & Museum & Statuepark climate 240 M/S Museet for Søfart 106 Park 213 18, 99 food 240 Skovgaard Museet 237 Tickon 178-9 316 passage graves, see burial Roskilde Domkirke 109-11 Stege 129-31, 130 Tønder Festival 23, 201 mounds & passage Roskilde Festival 23, 112, 11 Stenbjerg Landingsplads Tåsinge 175-7 graves round churches 153 259 passports 296, 297 Rubjerg Knude 258 Stevns Klint 118 planning, see also U Rudkøbing 178 Storebælts-forbindelsen individual regions 124 Ulvshale 131 Ruinerne under Utzon Center 241

INDEX INDEX budgeting 17 Christiansborg 51 Strøm 24, 65 calender of events 21-4 Utzon, Jørn 149, 189, 228, Rundetårn 49 surfing 260 children, travel with 19, 241, 276, 277 rundkirker 153 sustainability 263 35-7, 67, 213 P-W Rungsted 96 148-9  Denmark basics 16-17 Ry 228-9 Svendborg 173-5, 174 V Denmark’s regions  swimming 31-2, see vacations 295 38-40 Rømø 198-200 also beaches Valdemars Slot 176-7 internet resources 17 Rønne 143-5, 144 central Jutland 226-7 Vallø 119 Råbjerg Mile 255 itineraries 25-9, 25, 26, Copenhagen 61-2 vegetarian & vegan , Rådhus 49 28 29 northern Jutland 241 travellers 283 outdoor activities 30 Sæby 249-51 Viborg 237-8 repeat visitors 18 S Søby 184 Viborg Domkirke 237 travel seasons 16, 21-4, safari parks, see zoos & Søllerød Kro 71 Viking Ship Museum 34, 42 safari parks Sønderho 191 109, 15 politics 263 sailing 33 Vikingecenter Fyrkat 236 pop music, see rock & pop Sandvig 153-4 Vikings 266 music Sankt Bendts Kirke 117 T Fyrkat 236 population 263 Sankt Catharinæ Kirke telephone services 16, highlights 19 Presley, Elvis 234 295-6 194-5 history 193, 265 public holidays 295 Sankt Knuds Kirke 162 theme parks, see amusement & theme Jelling burial mounds Sankt Nicolai Kirke 114-15 parks 230 Sankt Olai Domkirke 99 R Thomas B Thriges Gade Jelling rune stones Randers 234-5 Schønnemann 74 163 230, 271 Rebild Bakker 235-7 Sculpture by the Sea Thorvaldsens Museum 50 Ladbyskibet 14, 169-70 22, 214 Rebild Festival 23, 236 Thy National Park 259 Lindholm Høje 243 Sejlskibsbroen 173 religion 263 time 296 Museet Ribes Vikinger shopping, see individual 195 Ribe 13, 193-8, 194, 13 tipping 295 locations Ribe VikingeCenter 195 Ribe Domkirke 193 Tisvildeleje 107-8 Silkeborg 224-8, 226 Trelleborg 122-4 Ribe Kunstmuseum 195 Tivoli Friheden 213 Skagen 13, 251-5, 252 Viking Moot 23, 214 Ribe VikingeCenter 195 Tivoli Gardens 24, 45, 66 Skagen Festival 23, 253 Viking Ship Museum Ringkøbing 238 Tollund Man 13, 224, 251 109, 15 Riverboat Jazz Festival 267, 13 Skjoldnæs Fyr 184 Vikingecenter Fyrkat 236 22, 227 Torvehallerne KBH 79 Skovsgaard 179 Vikingemuseet 213 rock & pop music 11 tourist information 296 Vikingemuseet Ladby Danmarks Rockmuseum Skt Hans Aften 22, 65 tours, see also individual 169-70 18, 111 smoking 294 locations visas 16, 296 NorthSide Festival Smukfest 23 southern Jutland 196 von Trier, Lars 288 23, 214 smørrebrod 74, 281 Wadden Sea National Rock & Roll Museum Snogebæk 147 Park 198 Vordingborg 124-5 18, 111 social system 273-5 train travel 298-9, 303 Roskilde Festival 23, Sol over Gudhjem 23, 152 Trapholt 187 W 112, 11 Sorø 119-22, 120 travel seasons 16, 21-4, Wadden Sea National Park Skagen Festival 23, 253 Sorø Kirke 120-1 34, 42 18, 198, 222 Tønder Festival 23, 201 South Funen Archipelago travel to/from Denmark walking, see hiking Rock & Roll Museum 18 176 297-300 war museums Rold Skov 235-7 southern Jutland 40, travel within Denmark Besættelsesmuseet Romsø 168-9 185-204, 186 300-3 212-13 Rosenborg Slot 59 accommodation 185 trekking, see hiking Bornholms Roskilde 108-13, 110 climate 185 Trelleborg 122-4 Forsvarsmuseum 145 food 185 Trier, Lars von 288 Frøslevlejrens Museum highlights 186 Troense 176 203 travel seasons 185 trolls 155 Historiecenter Dybbøl Map Pages 000 Banke 203 Statens Museum for Kunst TV 294 Photo Pages 000 58-9 Tønder 200-2 Langelandsfort 179 317 MuseumsCenter WWII 270, 271-2, see travel to/from 96 Æ Hanstholm 259 also war museums travel within 96 Ærø 10, 180-4, 180, 11 watersports 30, 239 zoos & safari parks 36-7 Ærøskøbing 181-3 weather 16, 21-4, 34, 42, Y Aalborg Zoo 243 see also individual Copenhagen Zoo 18, 61 regions Your Rainbow Panorama 15, 208 Givskud Zoo 231 Ø

websites, see internet Ølfestival 21 INDEX resources Knuthenborg Safari Park 140 Øresundsbron 270 Wegner, Hans 201 Z Odense Zoo 159, 161 Østerlars Rundkirke 152 weights 294 Zealand 38, 93-125, 94 -Randers Regnskov 234  W windsurfing accommodation 93

Ree Park Safari 221 Å  central Jutland 239 climate 93 Å Skandinavisk Dyrepark Åkirkeby 145-6 northern Jutland 260 food 93 224 Århus, see Aarhus southern Jutland 192, 199 highlights 94 wine 284 travel seasons 93 318 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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