travel The Southern to Sudan

The Red Sea

magnus lundgren

24 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 peter symes EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea Text by Peter Symes Photos by Peter Symes and Magnus Lundren There is something special about it, the Red Sea, that I have not found anywhere else on the planet. Granted every destination has its own, but here there is this special ambi- ence of timeless mystique, of remoteness and rugged adventure that just hangs thick in the atmosphere with a whiff of historical greatness and millenias past, topped up with a scent of spices and a distant smell of charcoal from a campfire, or perhaps a sisha—a waterpipe. Once you get past the sprawling resorts that now send their sprout- ing tubers and seeds out along the barren coastline—yes, they do market this place aggressively as the “Red Sea Riviera”—you suddenly find yourself in a land where time just seems to cease to exist. The sun wan- ders across the sky, so does the moon, but what day is it? Out in the desert, who cares? Who is there to care anyway, save for a few scattered Bedouins?

magnus lundgren

Despite its relative proximity to and the ever increasing convenience and affordability of cheap direct flights, once you head out of the resort areas, you can still wander off and turn around the next corner, or anchor behind the next reef and see no other people or boats in the horizon—nothing but dry and magnificient wilderness. This goes both for what is above and below the surface, but what a contrast. Above the surface, it is dry, reddish and scorched by the merciless sun under which only mad dogs and Englishmen stray during the height of the day; every other sensible creature is hid- ing. Below the surface, it is like a garden of Eden, rich in vibrant colour and teeming with energetic life.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Squat lobster; Egyptian sisha; Squid. PREVIOUS PAGE: Egyptian hieroglyphs. INSET: Diver explores Lahami cave. peter symes NEXT PAGE: Diver explores a wreck at Brothers Island magnus lundgren 25 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea

26 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 peter symes EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea

magnus lundgren

LEFT TO RIGHT: Dugong face with underwater photographer lurking in the background; Closeup of a goby on soft coral

Sitting on the deck of a Red Sea liveaboard after a good Ohoy! There’s a wreck down there... day’s diving, enjoying a pensive moment of après-diving One morning, as we were enjoying a lazy breakfast while and a cool drink as glowing red sun sets over the Egyptian anchored at a reef enroute on a live-aboard to Brothers’ desert, is the epitomy of escapism. Pondering who wan- Islands, we heard cries from the water. Startled, we got to dered those mountains in biblical times or during the reign our feet to see what all the commotion was all about fear- of the pharaohs blend in and out of reflections on the day’s ing that someone was in trouble, since an early bird buddy experiences down in the blue realm. What day it is soon team had gone out before breakfast (certainly not me, as I ceases to have any meaning. Email and SMS is far away, need my infusions of hot coffee first). and the daily cycles just break down into a rhythm of diving “There’s a wreck down there—come, come!” Within one and dining in no particular order. gulp of coffee everything else about breakfast was instantly forgotten, and we were in our dive gear quicker than Clark magnus lundgren 27 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea

peter symes

Kent could change into Superman. rounding landscape being a desert. there were only a couple of small fish- Getting into the water could only go Until quite recently, looking back ing villages here and a few ports. The too slow. Still covered in breadcrumbs past only a few decades during which place was empty, pretty much, until from brunch, I jumped in the clear resorts started to dot the coastline, divers started coming in the sixties and blue water and immediately caught a glimpse of a whitish wooden hull in the distance. It was another dive boat that sank recently—a fact that only very fleetingly managed to bother me before a primal urge to explore got the upper hand. This is the Red Sea in a nutshell. You never quite know what you might bump into, and there are still so many undiscovered nooks and crannies along the extended coastline that anyone can be some kind of explorer in these parts. The beauty and fairly good health of the Red Sea reefs stem from its vast expanse and relative absence of human infrastructure along its extended coastline, thanks to the sur-

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Divers explore the mast gun of the Thistlegorm wreck; Excursion on camel-back to a Beduin camp for music and feasting; Diver and Green sea turtle with remora attached

NEXT PAGE: Decorative interior of a mosque peter symes magnus lundgren 28 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea

The Red Sea

peter symes 29 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea

magnus lundgren magnus lundgren LEFT TO RIGHT: Portrait of a Hawkfish; Hunting Moray Eel; Diver explores internal caverns of the Aida wreck at Brothers Island

seventies. This particular ratio of wilderness to human mation from a sleepy village with a dirt road to a resort infrastructure is still quite favourable if we, for arguments dotted community that underwent 15 sake, ignore the immediate vicinity of the big resort years earlier. Down here, you still have shore diving in the towns of Sharm el Sheikh and , which have old style, which is one thing you can’t do up in Sharm now grown to a considerable size—each with a number anymore (and one reason that I won’t head for Sharm of hotel beds well into the six figures. But even here, el Sheikh again). In contrast, you can still dive your pre- considering the massive load of tourists and divers in the ferred time, have a breakfast in your own time before rig- area, the reefs even close to the towns appear to be in ging your gear and simply wade out to enjoy the nearby a decent condition. I was actually pretty impressed to house reef. I like this style of diving and holiday making see a healthy garden of fragile and sensitive gorgonians simply because it is so relaxing, and that is what I usually at Ras Umm Sidd, just outside Sharm el Sheikh. need. But who knows how long it will last. The develop- ments seem to happen fast and the frontier just gets “Deep South” pushed southwards by the day. It is in the south that the frontier of development lies But it is the live-aboards that are the crème de la today. In the past few years, places like crème down here. Ever more luxurious and spacious have apparently started undergoing the same transfor- yachts take discerning divers on one or two-week long

peter symes 30 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea symes peter

magnus lundgren

winding itineraries in and out of archi- pelagos and reef structures. In the deep south of the Red Sea, we find many of the great renowned reefs including St. John, Deadelus, Elphinstone and the Zabargad islands. You find some of the best diving in the word here. Surely, there are more small critters and biodiversity in the Far East; that is no secret. But the corals of the deep south—especially the gorgonians—are lush and colourful, and there is an amaz- ing amount of fish life. And if you are on good vessels with all the amenities you can ask for, lip service and great food, then life can hardly get any better.

Often you can get as many dives as you magnus lundgren like and your Nitrogen loading permitting but what’s the point of diving yourself to LEFT TO RIGHT: Profile of the Sphinx with one of the great pyramids behind it; exhaustion? You can work your self hag- White tipped shark diving; Feeding Squat lobster; Cloud of Anthias display the gard back in the office. ■ bounty of the coral reefs

magnus lundgren 31 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Placenames are Text by Arnold Weisz hyperlinked to Edited by Gunild Symes Google Maps for A ncient E gypt

Thistlegorm Ras Muhammad Hurghada — a R esource C enter Port m Salem Express The Red Sea Quesir Parted by Moses... Bridged by Islam K ing T ut O ne . co Erythra Thalassa—Red Sea, as history including the development of ships bearing clothing, copper and Marsa Shagra directly translated from the trade routes by the Phoenicians, as far cooking pots left the ports at el-Quseir Marsa Alam back as the 12th century B.C., when and Berenice and came back with ancient Greek name—is what extensive routes up and down the elephants, ebony, spices and gems. it was called by the ancient coasts were established as well as a In the Medieval Age frrom the 13th to Romans as well. Long has this base at what is now the port city of the 16th centuries, merchants great body of water been Jiddah, Saudi Arabia. Later, ancient brought Iranian and Chinese ceramics to el-Quseir via the Red Sea, which vir- a focal point of trade in the tually became an Ottoman lake after Middle East, which has stood the Turks took Cairo in 1517. as a crossroads between By the 15th century, Europe began Europe, Asia and Africa for to show interest in the region. The first European chart of the Red Sea was many thousands of years. drawn in 1760 by The Red Sea, today, is still an on a scientific expedition sent by important vehicle of global Frederick V of to explore Egypt and Arabia. Port Sudan trade as well as a major tourist During World War I and II, the Red destination for millions. Sea saw its fare share of the fighting. The Ottoman Empire controlled large The Red Sea has acquired world-wide parts of the Red Sea coast during the interest in more recent times from the first world war—from the Bay of Aqaba allure of its underwater wonders. Yet, if to Aden on the east side and on the we go back a long way to the time of west side, the Egyptian and northern The Exodus, we find the Sudanese coastlines. Arabs had breif Red Sea a birthplace control over the territories around of legends like that of the Red Sea during the Arab Revolt Moses, who is said of 1916, from which rose the fame of to have parted Moses Smashing the Tables of the Law a certain Captain T.E. Lawrence, or the Red Sea by Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn as Lawrence of Arabia as he is more to lead the commonly known, when he staged Israelites to Roman ships, laden with cargoes an attack against the port city of safety from of treasure such as gold bound, for Aqaba. By the end of World War I, the the pur- Indian cities, visited ancient Egyptian Red Sea was controlled in practice by suit of the Red Sea ports such as Berenice. Britain, France and Italy. Pharoah’s The Red Sea continued to be an In World War II, Italy entered the war army. important trade route from the 7th cen- against the Allies in 1940. Italian forces Along its tury AD when untold numbers of boats became a potential threat to British shores, the and dhows—traditional Arab sailing supply routes in the Red Sea and the Red Sea has vessels—carried merchants and mus- . Britain had troops in Egypt seen much lim pilgrims to Mecca. In those days, and Sudan. Italy had troups in Libya,

nasa KingTutOne.com —a Resource Center for Ancient Egypt 32 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel The Red Sea LEFT: Sea turtle and two remoras going for a ride. BELOW: Whitetip shark patrols the waters of the Red Sea

Eritrea and Somalia. The conflict in the Sudan in 1950 and made the motion the Red Sea. Recreational diving came Red Sea left some great wrecks for picture, Under the Red Sea. The film pre- to the area in the 1950’s when Greeks divers to explore later. Well-known ships sented the first images ever taken of a and Italians working for oil and mining such as the Thistlegorm and Umbria whale shark underwater. companies took to skindiving along the were sunk during World War II. In 1951, Jacques Cousteau arrived Hurghada coast. However, the wars One of the most important events to in the Red Sea on the Calypso. His first between Israel and the Arab nations in affect the Red Sea region was the crea- book, The Silent World, and a film by the the next two decades stopped large- tion of the Suez Canal. Even though a same name, was researched while div- scale tourism to the Red Sea region. canal had been envisaged since the ing near Port Sudan and on the shallow But, tourism to the area resumed in reign of the Pharaohs, the realization of reefs of the Saudi Arabian coast. 1982 when the last section of the Sinai a canal was not made until 1869 when Soon after Hass and Cousteau was returned to the . The late the Suez Canal was first opened. The revealed the fantastic underwater won- 80s saw a building-boom at the Red Suez Canal reinforced the role of the ders of the Red Sea with their books Sea, and resorts like Sharm el Sheik and Red Sea as a trade route and “Passage and films, the first leisure divers arrived at Hughada sprung up. ■ to ” for European travellers. In 1967, the canal was closed as a result of the Arab-Israeli conflict. The Six Day War culminated in the closure of the Suez Canal from 1967 to 1975. However, the canal was reopened in 1975 and enlarged. It was Austrian Hans Hass who, in the 1950s, discovered that the Red magnus lundgren Sea was an amazing div- ing destination. Within the The Red Sea – or the Sea of Reeds This mistranslation, or whatever you same decade, Jacques- Did Moses cross the Red Sea? like to call it, which was introduced in Yves Cousteau also tout- The biblical event where, in the Exodus, the King James’ version of the Bible, ed the underwater won- Moses crossed the Red Sea with the has led to much debate and confusion. ders of the Red Sea. Israelites has always been difficult to Although there are still many different In 1949, Hans Hass set explain without using the help of a hypotheses about the route actually off alone for Port Sudan. miracle. However, the designation ’Red taken, one thing is sure – due to this mis- Over a period of two Sea’ appears nowhere in the Hebrew translation most of the suggestions put months of solitary diving, text of the Bible. The Hebraic term yam forward have been nonsense. using underwater cam- suph is used which means sea of reeds. The actual location of this ‘Sea of era housings he designed The word yam means any large body Reeds’, plainly not the Red Sea, is the and built himself, Hass of water, be it fresh or salty, while sulph subject of much discussion even today. took over 1,500 photo- means reeds or rushes, as used, for For an interesting discussion of this topic graphs of the underwater example, in the account of Moses in the see www.crivoice.org/yamsuph.html. ■ realm of the Red Sea. He bullrushes. returned again to Port

magnus lundgren

33 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED MysteriesText by Barb Roy. Photos by Barbof Roy, Egypt Magnus Lundgren and Peter Symes all photos this page by barb roy LEFT TO RIGHT: A hot air balloon floats along the in the early morning; Merchant drives a donkey through the streats of Cairo; Khan El Khalili bazaar in Cairo; Nubian felucca guide in Aswan

The sun was just greeting the day as I I gazed upon the beauty of an early ates were afraid that I would become corner of Africa, between Libya and around the world, Egypt’s history is hurried to the top deck of our cruise boat morning colorful terrain. Was the Nile a Caucasian target and my dive and Saudi Arabia. The Sinai is to its north- slowly being uncovered. To date, used to trade with other communities? photography gear was sure to get east, Sudan is just below, with the over 62 tombs have been discovered with a steaming hot cup of coffee in one Did they travel with their gold and stolen! I am happy to say, their worries Mediterranean Sea along its northern and archeologists have compiled a hand and a camera in the other. I was jewels and attendants? Two hot-air did not detour me in the least. By in- shore and the Red sea bordering its treasure of over 120,000 objects for alone, enjoying the splender of another balloons in the distance broke my con- vesting some time on the Internet, my eastern shore. Egypt’s history was first the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities Egyptian morning. Wispy veils of fog centration as their pilots stoked their research proved Egypt to be a wealth recorded around 4000 BC when no- in Cairo (established in 1902). Among fires to gain altitude. Several local fish- of cultural and historic knowledge, well madic hunters settled in the Nile Val- the objects displayed in 107 halls are danced across the Nile’s glassy surface, ing boats pushed off from shore and worth a visit indeed. Actually there ley. In 3100 BC Egypt crowned its first actual mummies, statues of past roy- slowly dissipating as the sun’s rays envel- it seemed within minutes the morning was little to no risk involving security, Pharaoh – Menes, who unified Egypt’s alty and the most prized – a collection oped the distant mountains and country- had come to life once again on the because I would be traveling with a two regions. The development of soci- of King Tutankhamen’s burial items, side. As I sipped my cup of java, I won- Nile. group of other journalists, all desiring to ety, law and religion soon followed. including his golden sarcophagus. After hearing about the unrest and experience Egypt’s wonders as I did. Today, historians are still debat- Over the years Egypt has built mod- dered how many of Egypt’s nobility had turmoil in the Middle East I almost There was even another diver along, ing whether Egypt’s history doesn’t ern skyscrapers and leaped head once come this way. canceled my trip to Egypt, a place I who I later talked into joining me for date back even further, perhaps 8 or first into the computer age, but oc- have always wanted to visit and dive some Red Sea diving! 10 thousand years BC. With the help casionally one can still see small stone in the Red Sea. My friends and associ- Egypt is located in the northeastern of missions and archeologists from huts and women washing clothes in

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all photos this page by barb roy

Queen Hatshepsut Temple. INSET: Bust of King Akhenaten at the Cairo museum

the Nile. Donkey pulled carts sur- Khan El-Khalili Bazaar, boasted rounded by cars and trucks in the to be the largest bazaar in the cities, still hint of an old and new Middle East, where we found a era trying to coexist. The countries selection of fine fabrics, clothing, government is called the Arab Re- souvenirs, jewelry and excellent public of Egypt, with a democratic local cuisine. I was able to find a society and an elected president. reputable jeweler recommended by our guide, to custom make a The Journey cartouche (pendant) made of It was December when I visited, fine silver for each of my three during the mildest time of the daughters back home. I had their year (60-80 degrees Fahrenheit) name printed on one side and with little to no wind and not too the Egyptian hieroglyphic symbols many tourists. From New York I flew for their name on the other. It was to Amsterdam, then to Egypt’s very stylish and well received. capitol city of Cairo. During the The 4500 year-old Pyramids on day the city is packed with au- the Giza Plateau (9 miles West of tomobiles and constant honking Cairo) were next on our tour, built because there are very few traffic as burial chambers for the Phar- told each of the huge structural lights and only a few stop signs! aohs. I’ll have to admit I felt a bit blocks used to build the pyramids, Needless to say, we took a taxi or like Indiana Jones climbing up and weighed an impressive 2.5 tons hired a car and driver for transpor- down makeshift ladders, through each! tation while in Cairo. narrow passageways and crawl- To the east was the legendary After a visit to the Museum in ing at times to reach the various Sphinx, guardian to the Pharaohs, Cairo, we were able to tour the pyramid chambers. We were representing power and wisdom.

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I noticed at most of the Pyramids, with restaurants, novelty shops, fresh protected areas. There is an area of Nitrox were available for an additional temples and other antiquities, armed food stands and great coffee shops. the Elba Mountain and Abrak and the fee. A night dive tempted us, but we guards stood watch from camels and We were mainly surrounded by other coastal islands with mangroves. Shay- were expected back at the resort for a at all attraction entrances. tourists, mostly European, but friendly eb Al-Banat is another protected area Bedouin style dinner with the group. The sight of camels intrigued sev- nevertheless. If I didn’t know better, I southwest of Hurghada city. There are eral of us to opt for a camel trail ride. I would swear I was in Bonaire or anoth- many more too, where you can find guess this is one of those things we like er Caribbean dive hot spot! wildlife.” to do – just once in our lives. We soon Although all but two of us were to We thanked discovered these creatures had very spend the day touring temples and our knowl- individual personalities, and can be monuments, I was looking forward edgeable driv- extremely moody. Fortunately, I had to getting wet! We booked a day of er and bid him an apple to share with mine, which diving with one of the many day-boat farewell as we gained me the lead of the heard, at dive charter operators servicing the went to board least for a while! I found out quickly it’s Sharm area. On the way to the depar- the dive boat. no fun being behind other camels. ture dock our driver explained that the Most boats Red Sea runs from the Gulf of the Suez leave around Sharm El Sheikh down to the Gulf of Aden. He also said 8-8:30am, The day finally came when the group it was the mineral-rich red mountain and return at was flown to Sharm El Sheikh, locat- range that gave the ancient mariners 4-5pm, serv- ed at the southern tip of Sinai. I was the idea to call it Mare Rostrum or the ing lunch amazed to see very modern seaside commonly known today as - The Red and snacks luxury hotels and resorts, all with big Sea. between two swimming pools and beautiful land- “But our beaches are almost white,” dives. Tanks all photos this page by barb roy scaped decor. Even our hotel, the Four he explains. “At different times of the and weight Seasons Resort, came with a prop- year you can see migrating birds along belts are sup- CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Camel gurard; Egyptian temple; erty directional map for navigation. the shore; bird watchers really love plied, although Nile boats; Cairo mosque; Camels catch a ride in a chevy The town was equally as nice, filled it. We even have National Parks and rentals and HARVEY PAGE

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peter symes

The Red Sea is abundant with soft coral (left) and marine life such as the lionfish (right) peter symes Diving All of this info was wonderful and Our boat was wide and roomy, with helped prepare us for our first dive, over 20 divers and room for more. After only 45 minutes from where we depart- the briefing I grabbed the divemaster ed. Our divemaster also noted that to inquire about what the Red Sea has most of the day boats all find great to offer visiting divers. sites within an hour run from Sharm. He seemed pleased to elaborate, Water temperature was warm as “Most of the operators who take divers we entered off the back of the boat, out, don’t allow the taking of any ma- maybe 27 degrees Celsius (82 Fahren- rine life or shells, or touching or spear heit). All I wore was a shorty wetsuit. To fishing. In Ras Mohammed National keep things simple for my underwater Park you can not even wear gloves! photography, I used a wide angle lens There are over six good sites in the park so whole scenes could easily be cap- alone, but we must leave even earlier tured. The water was no deeper than than today to get there.” 18 meters (60 feet) and the visibility When asked what kind of marine life must have been over 30 meters (100 lives in the Red Sea, he replied; “Just feet)! I did notice the water was quite about everything you see in other parts a bit saltier and I needed more weight of the world lives here. We have giant on my belt, compared to a Caribbean mantas, whale sharks, dolphins, big destination. Perhaps with all of this sharks and other pelagics, turtles and heat, evaporation over the years has beautiful soft corals, the Dendronephy- caused the Red Sea to have a higher ta species. You can see lionfish, pol- saline content. yclad colorful flatworms, clownfish, With camera in hand I began to triggerfish, butterfly fish and the grace- photograph one tall coral head after ful blue-spotted stingray. And if you are another, each covered with a dress- lucky, maybe even a cuttlefish – of the ing of soft coral and tiny reef fish. With Sepia species.” over twenty divers in the water, I was peter symes

37 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Steep wall at Brothers Island Top view of coral garden travel BOTTOM: Crocodiilefish Egypt

Our diving time in tolerated! Sharm turned out to If you decide to do a little trek- be loads of fun. Most king on your own in the Sinai, it is of the reefs ranged advisable to stick to well-known from 10-800 meters, trails or tracks, and only explore with the latter being beaches recommended ‘safe’ by a drop-off wall full of the locals. Unfortunately Sinai may color and life fading still hide live land mines, left over into the abyss. When from previous wars, so caution venturing into deeper would be advised. water, there is always a possibility of strong Egyptians currents, also felt at During my journey through Egypt I some shallower sites. found the Egyptian people to be Quite a few critters extremely friendly and very help- choose mid August ful in every way. Most of the local to begin mating, so people active in tourism, speak care should be taken. English, Spanish, French, German I counted over 81 dive and Italian, besides their native peter symes sites in the Red Sea, so tongue. On many occasions, the exploration oppor- residents in Luxor, Cairo, Aswan a merchant vessel 126 “I can think of fourteen good tunities are endless. For and Sharm el-Sheikh (South Sinai) meters long (413 feet) dives between Ras Nasrani in the a wider range of diving and area would come up to me and just in 30 meters (98 feet) north, to Ras Katy in the south.” coverage, try a liveaboard dive start chatting. Our whole group of water near the Suez It wsn’t until the second dive boat. After talking with the local was invited to smoke a Sheesha Canal, sinking in 1941. that I noticed all of the lionfish divers, most believe fall through water pipe sweetened with apple You can see trucks, (also called turkeyfish) hiding un- spring is exceptional for diving in juice in Aswan during our Nile Rive motorbikes, parts of der the coral head ledges. Unlike the Red Sea, but a few prefer July cruise. We were also treated to a WWII plane parts and the brave frilly looking ones we and August, if the heat can be sailboat ride in a felucca (boat) more. The Dunraven are used to see- is a British steamer, 80 ing in aquariums, meters (252 feet) long, these were quite found on the Southern reserved and shy. side of Beacon Rock in The few morays 30 meters (98 feet) of of a formidable water. It went down in size, with cool gray peter symes 1876 and is now up- eyes, were also side down! There are spotted. I really four more wrecks at enjoyed just going surprised to rarely see anyone nasty disposition. The underwater Saab Abu Nuhas and more to the into deeper water except my buddy. A few snor- sounds were like any other tropi- south.” and looking back kelers glided overhead, often cal reef and the water a bit cool- Several other divers also on- on the beautiful following the divers. On a sandy er at depth. Life was everywhere board had joined us by now, reef, brightened patch between fingering small I looked including critters hiding in listening intently as he continued; by a ballet of rays reefs, I spotted a crocodile fish! the sand. “There are four nice dive sites in from the sun. It It looked prehistoric and oddly During lunch the divemaster the to the north and was like watching cute with its long snout and sharp continued with his talk to us about six popular sites within Ras Mo- a virtual underwa- little teeth. It was only about a the various places within the Red hammed, one of my favourites.” ter scene playing 30-5 cm (12 inches) long, but I Sea to dive; “We have many When asked about the dives on a computer kept my distance, in case it had a shipwrecks too. The Thistlegorm is accessible from shore, he replied; screen! peter symes 38 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Egypt

on our Nile journey. Egypt doesn’t toler- popular mosques. at home provides even more peace of gernail. Real marble won’t scratch! ate terrorism, which was very evident As with traveling to any international mind. Bring plenty of sunscreen, shades, a from the additional security measures country, a little knowledge will go a long valid passport, a windbreaker to wear at the airports, hotels and to protect the way in making any trip as smooth and in- Travel Hints after boat dives, your certification card, antiquities. cident-free as possible. The State Depart- The National currency is the Egyptian an electrical adapter or converter (220V For a city of over twelve million, Cai- ment’s Bureau of Consular Affairs has an Pound (LE), but US cash, Travelers Checks AC, 50 Hz) and plenty of film or memory ro’s crime rate was almost non-existent. excellent website for visitors from Ameri- and major credit cards are accepted. cards and batteries. By making a list of I did gather, with the conservative na- ca, accessible at; http://travel.state.gov/ Many businesses and banks are usually the serial numbers of the computers, dive ture of Middle Easterners, concerning to learn more about Egypt’s local health closed on Fridays. Gratuity or Bakshish and photography gear you are traveling women and sex, females can avoid conditions, entry requirements, politi- should be awarded based upon serv- with, you may avoid problems concern- verbal harassment by simply covering cal stability, as well as any current travel ice, but generally around ten percent ing ownership with Customs upon enter- more skin. I didn’t notice this attitude at warnings. If you are concerned with the will work. Be sure to get receipts for all ing and exiting the country. Drink only the resorts in Sharm, as most visitors are safety aspect of a country, travelers can purchases, and if the items are antiques, bottled water, and take along a supply photos this page by barb roy European. I would recommend women also register a detailed itinerary with the be sure to get an official museum export of Imodium in case the Pharaohs Curse INSET: Traditional musicians perfrom at Luxor LEFT to bring or buy a lightweight scarf to use U.S. Embassy or Consulate in that coun- tag. Hint: the marble statues make great catches up with you. Remember, a little TO RIGHT: Traveler enjoys a Sheesha pipe; Temple when needed. The scarf also will come try before you go. Leaving the same gifts—you can tell if they are authentic research goes along way… ■ of Horus; Women washing on the Nile; The great in handy when touring some of the more detailed itinerary with a friend or relative by scratching the bottom with your fin- pyramids dwarf visitors

39 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED West SYRIA Mediterranean Sea Bank Damietta Port Gaza Dead Alexandria Said Strip Sea Marsá Maţrūh Tanţa Suez IS. Shubrā Canal al Khayman JORDAN Cattara Suez Depression Al Jīzah CAIRO SINAI fact file Al Fayyūm Sīwah Egypt Mount SAUDI initiated economic reforms storm called khamsin Catherine Al Minyā ARABIA and massive investments in occurs in springtime; dust Al communications and physi- storms, sandstorms; fre- Ghardaquah Sharm ash cal infrastructure in an effort quent earthquakes, flash World map and map of Egypt Shaykh LIBYA Asyūţ to ready the economy for the floods, landslides Nile Būr source: www.cia.gov new millennium. Government: ter Ahmed Nazif. There was Safājah Red Republic. Legal system: Based Environmental issues a stock market boom, and Al Khārljah Sea History One of the world’s guage and religion through- on English common law, Desertification—agricultural GDP grew by about 5 per- Luxor great civilizations was born out the region over the next Islamic law and Napoleonic land is being lost to wind- cent for the next two years. on the banks of the Nile. Due six centuries. Around the year codes. Capital: Cairo blown sands and urbaniza- Unfortunately, living standards Aswān to the richness and regularity 1250, a local military caste, tion. Soil salination below the remain the same for the aver- of the annual flooding of the the , took control. Geography Egypt oc- Aswan High Dam is increasing. age Egyptian despite these Lake Nile River as well as the semi- They continued to govern the cupies the northeast corner Oil pollution is threatening achievements, compelling Nasser isolation of the valley created country after the Ottoman of the African continent. It coral reefs, beaches and ma- the government to continue Hafā’ib by the surrounding deserts, Turks conquered Egypt in borders the Mediterranean rine habitats. Additional water to provide subsidies for basic Triangle the rise of a unified kingdom 1517. In 1869, the Suez Canal Sea—between Libya and the pollution comes from agri- necessities. These subsidies around 3200 B.C. brought a was completed and Egypt Gaza Strip—and the Red Sea cultural pesticides, raw sew- have helped increase a grow- SUDAN series of into power became an important center north of Sudan, and includes age and industrial effluents. ing budget deficit continue in Egypt for the next three for world trade. However, the Asian . There are very limited natural to be a significant drain on Bedouin and Beja 1%, Greek; Dive Centers millennia. In 341 B.C., the last it also fell heavily into debt. Coastline: 2,450 km. Terrain: fresh water resources away the economy and foreign Armenian and other Euro- Wildcat Liveaboard Charters native fell to invad- In order to protect its invest- Vast desert plateau is inter- from the Nile River, which direct investment continue pean (primarily Italian and www.redseadiving.com ing Persians who in turn were ments, Great Britain seized rupted by the Nile River valley provides the only perennial to be low, however, export French) 1%. Religions: Muslim Camel Dive Club & Hotel replaced by the Greeks, control of Egyptian govern- and delta. Lowest point: Qat- water source. Rapid popula- sectors—especially natural (mostly Sunni) 90%, Coptic 9%, www.cameldive.com Romans, and Byzantines. It ment in 1882. However, some tara Depression,133 m. High- tion growth is overstraining the gas—show positive prospects. other Christian religions1%. Sinai Divers Diving Centers was the Arabs in the 7th cen- allegiance to the Ottoman est point: Mount Catherine, Nile River and other natural Agriculture: cotton, rice, corn, Internet users: 5 million (2005) www.sinaidivers.com tury who introduced Islam Empire maintained influence 2,629 m. Egypt controls the resources. Egypt is party to the wheat, beans, fruits, vegeta- Red Sea Rangers Diving and spread the in Egypt until 1914. Sinai Peninsula—the only land following international agree- bles, goats, sheep, cattle, Languages Arabic (of- www.redsea-rangers.com Arabic lan- Egypt gained bridge between Africa and ments: Biodiversity, Climate water buffalo. Industries: tex- ficial), English and French is partial inde- the remaining Eastern Hemi- Change, Climate Change- tiles, food processing, tourism, understood by educated Web sites pendence from sphere. Egypt also controls the Kyoto Protocol, Desertifica- chemicals, pharmaceuticals, classes Egyptian Tourist Authority the UK in 1922 Suez Canal—a sea link and tion, Endangered Species, hydrocarbons, construction, www.egypt.travel and acquired major trade route between Environmental Modification, cement, metals, light manu- Deco Chambers Egypt Tours & Travel full sovereignty the Indian Ocean and Medi- Hazardous Wastes, Law of the factures. Natural resources: Sharm El Sheikh interoz.com following World terranean Sea. Becuase of its Sea, Marine Dumping, Ozone petroleum, natural gas, iron Hyperbaric Medical Center Egyptian Museum War II. The time- size and juxtaposition to Israel, Layer Protection, Ship Pollu- ore, phosphates, manganese, (069) 6609223 EMERG Egyptianmuseum.gov.eg honored place of the Egypt plays a major role in tion, Tropical Timber 83, Tropi- limestone, gypsum, talc, as- (012) 2124292 Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Nile River in the agriculture Middle Eastern geopolitics. cal Timber 94, Wetlands. bestos, lead, zinc. www.fourseasons.com and ecology of Egypt was However, Egypt does con- Deco International Abercrombie & Kent Nile altered by the completion of tinue to depend on upstream Economic In the last three Currency Egyptian Emergency (012) 1653806 Cruises www.abercrom- the Aswan High Dam in 1971 neighbors and deal with the decades, the Egyptian gov- pound (EGP). Exchange rate: Hurghada biekent.com and the resultant Lake Nasser. dominance of Nile basin is- ernment has reformed the 1EUR=7.69EGP, 1USD=5.69EGP, El-Gouna Hospital Even so, dependence on the sues. The country is also prone highly centralized economy 1GBP=11.25EGP, (O65) 5800118 Books Nile continues, and with a to influxes of refugees. handed down from President 1AUD=4.69EGP, EMERGENCY (012) 2187550 Imaging Egypt by Mark rapidly growing population— Nasser. Energy subsidies, and 1SGD=3.73SGD Naval Hospital Hurghada Millmore www.eyelid.co.uk the Arab world’s largest—and Climate Desert—hot, dry personal and corporate tax (065) 3544195 Egypt and Diving and limited arable land, resources summers with moderate win- rates were reduced, and Population 80,335,036 Marsa Alam Snorkeling the Red Sea and society continue to be ters. Natural hazards: periodic several enterprises were priva- (July 2007 est.). Ethnic groups: Marsa Shagra (065) 443156 published by Lonely Planet stressed. The government has droughts; a hot, driving wind- tized in 2005 by Prime Minis- Egyptian 98%; Berber, Nubian, www.lonelyplanet.com ■ peter symes 40 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Kurt Amsler’s Photo-workshops Diving the Red Sea in France 2007 Text by Arnold Weisz Sustainable tourism or environmental disaster? In co-operation with AQUANAUT Dive Centre in Les Lecques on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, we have the There is no doubt that the Red from the tourism business. families in their home cities and towns. best prerequisites for learning all the Sea offers some of the best div- Hotel complexes are springing up From their point of view, dive tourism is different techniques quickly and suc- almost unchallanged all along the feeding their families. cessfully in a pleasant atmosphere. The ing on the planet. Additionally, Egyptian Red Sea coast. Along the workshops are open to analogue and the Red Sea is easily access- coastline of Egypt, from the Suez canal Increased awareness digital photographers! able for European divers, which to the Sudanese border, huge armadas The coral reefs of the the Red Sea are makes it one of the most popu- of dive vessels are bringing hordes of generally in good shape with rich, bio- For the theoretical lessons, we have a divers to the coral reefs. diverse reefs the rule. However, coastal classroom and a photolab at our hotel, lar dive travel destinations in development continues to destroy man- with light boxes, projector, beamer and the world. Diving has become a Tourism—highway to wealth groves, and damage from coral reef all the necessary hardware and soft- booming branch of the tourism It’s almost stunning to see the enormous tourism is on the rise, especially in the ware for digital photographers. business. armada of dive charter boats at the Red Sea’s northern . ports of Dahab, Sharm The picture is not as bleek as it may We undertake the photo dives with the el Sheikh, Hurghada, seem. Awareness about the environ- H2O—a fast comfortable dive boat. Safaga and Marsa mental damage has risen in the last few The dive spots in this area are outstand- Alam in the morning. years. The local government, dive and ing. The rumbling of marine tourism industries are seeing the effect of diesel engines laying a years of rapidly growing numbers of tour- We dive down the drop-offs of Ile Verte carpet of fumes over ists and have started to take measures to at the light tower; Balise, the cave of the crisp sea air. Loud protect their natural assets. La Vierge; and visit the wreck of the calls in Arabic whiz Several organizations have sprung famous P-38 Fighter, which was discov- through the place, up, and efforts to protect the marine ered by us in the spring of 1997. The sometimes Russian or environment are being put into effect. participants are accommodated at English pierce through Everything from reef rehabilitation, moor- the hotel, La Bastide, surrounded by the hustle and bustle, ing-buoys, waste control and non-con- beautiful countryside, the landscapes as the crews prepare to tact diving practices are reducing the provençal. Guests have the possibility of take out thousands of impact on the environment. booking only the hotel and/or diving. divers. Still, many of the reefs show clearly vis- Everywhere, there able signs of wear and tear. And it’s not My photo-courses are built upon a P eter S ymes are pyramids of airtanks uncommon to encounter plastic bottles learning pyramid, which has been and equipment bags. and other non-biodegradeable waste. approved for over 15 years: “Hear, see The Red Sea was “discovered” as a Convoys of trolleys shuttle between the Many of these problems can be elimi- and do!” diving destination by Hans Hass in the mini-buses and pickups at the parking lot nated by simply changing the indifferent 1950s. Tourism has grown steadily since and the dive boats. attitudes of locals and tourists. Nature Such efficient working conditions are the 1970s and has reached the point Can we really criticise the Egyptians for can recuperate, if you just give it time! ■ possible only here, because the sea lies of becoming an essential part of the taking advantage of dive hungry tour- right in front of our door; the classroom region’s economy. ists? The mighty Nile is the life line, which is just footsteps from your hotel room; However, looking beyond the fantastic feeds most of the country’s 73 million and the number of participants in each coral reefs, awesome wrecks, luxurious inhabitants. The coral reefs of the Red workshop is limited to ten. resorts and sandy beaches, there is a Sea gives thousands of Egyptians jobs downside to the paradise. The reef-lined and supplies the country’s economy with Please study the course programme coasts all along the Red Sea, but espe- much needed hard currency. at the link below. I can guarantee cially in Egypt, depend on high numbers Many of those who make a living in the you that this workshop in the south of of tourist divers, thus resulting in degra- tourist and dive industry come from Cairo France will bring you a giant step for- dation of reefs by mechanical damage, or other large cities along the Nile. They ward. waste and water pollution. Often, this work every day for three weeks, and Reef ball. Illustration —Kurt Amsler is accepted due to the short-term gain then spend a week together with their courtesy of www.reefball.org www.photosub.com

41 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Saudi Arabia Diving the Kingdom

Text and photos by Dan Beecham

In the heart of the Middle East, occupying 80 percent of the eastern shoreline of the Red Sea, sits the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. It covers an area of over 870, 000 square miles, almost all of which is desert, which holds more than a quar- ter of the world’s oil reserves. Despite its close proximity to Egypt and Sudan—places that are considered by many people to be some of the world’s greatest diving locations—the reefs around Saudi Arabia have barely been dived.

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Saudi Arabia is infamous for being dif- the Kingdom’s fiercely Muslim character, bounds, count themselves lucky that they ficult, and oftentimes impossible to get returning to 18th century ideals where can enter, explore and dive a part of the into. At the same time, it welcomes with Islam reigned supreme, and where for- world that is generally off limits to western- open arms thousands of expatriate work- eigners were not welcome. Others wish for ers; Saudi Arabia can be considered the ers every year, as well as over 3.5 million change; there is talk of democracy and final frontier of diving in the Middle-East. tourists annually, almost entirely comprised reforms on many issues including women’s of pilgrims performing the Haj or Umrah. If rights, a topic that is especially divisive. The Oil Giant you’re non-Muslim and are not sponsored The modern generation is demanding Sadly, Saudi is not known for it’s diving, by an employer in Saudi, attaining a visit change, and it is slowly happening; west- there’s only one thing its famous for; Oil. visa is nigh on impossible. ern commercialism is increasingly imping- work, go out in public unescorted and not The 8.5 million barrels of crude that It’s this strict level of control, as well as ing upon Islamic ideals. being allowed to drive are just a few of are pumped out of Saudi Arabia every the continued threat of terrorist activities Because of these reforms, there is ten- the issues that must be overcome. day ensure that the Kingdom remains that keeps the majority of westerners out sion in the Kingdom, so visiting or living in It is all of these strict rules as well as a driving force in the global economy. of the country. The problems do not stop Saudi presents new challenges everyday. the issues relating to visit visas that either Unfortunately, the oil industry and the there however. Clashes with the authorities including the stop or put people off diving in Saudi. The preservation of pristine marine environ- Saudi Arabia is a country that is strug- religious police, or Mutawwa, are not opportunity to dive untouched, pristine ments do not make good bedfellows. gling to strike a balance between its uncommon. The Mutawwa strictly enforce reefs or discover new wrecks is impossible There are large areas of reef that remain CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Mosque in roots, which are firmly planted in Islamist the many social rules of Islamic culture. in other parts of the Red Sea. Because of untouched, but in other places the envi- Jeddah; Mosque tower; Jeddah street scene; tradition, while its younger generation Women especially must be mindful of the- this, many people (this writer included) ronment is very much neglected; exten- Saudi souk, or traditional market. INSET: Door demands reform to a modern, more west- ses rules, covering themselves head to toe who are given the opportunity to visit a sive damage caused by oil extraction or to women’s prayer chamber in a mosque. ern society. Many Saudi’s want to defend in the traditional Abaya, not being able to country that normally sits so far out of the reclamation of land for refineries has PREVIOUS PAGE: Saudi desert mountains

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wiped out entire ecosystems. In Environmental issues 1991 during the Gulf War, eight bil- Some areas of the Red Sea that lion barrels of oil were released into lie within Saudi waters are thank- the Arabian Gulf on the Saudi’s fully now protected. This is largely Eastern coastline by retreating Iraqi thanks to the work of active marine forces. There are fears in many that conservation groups. National a similar event could one day hap- Parks and “no-go” zones where pen in the Red Sea; the damage fishing is completely prohibited this could cause is unimaginable. have been created. This is often The threat of terrorist attacks enforced, but unfortunately, not remains very real today. Post 9/11, always. In other areas, fishing goes many expatriate workers who completely unchecked, but mainly had called Saudi home for a long consists of local fishermen on small time moved away to neighbour- boats. There is little commercial ing countries in the Middle East, fishing in Saudi as there is simply in response to terror attacks on more money to be made in the oil housing compounds and foreign industry. embassies. Numbers of ex-pats in Shark meat is unfortunately very Saudi Arabia are steadily increas- popular, and small sharks often ing nowadays, and with it, the appear in abundance on the fish diving scene, but once in a while counters in large supermarkets. an event will occur to shake eve- Row upon row of juvenile reef shark rybody’s confidence over safety in and Hammerhead Shark adorn the Kingdom. In February this year, these counters. Even though I see four French tourists were killed near more sharks in Saudi waters than Jeddah, and in April, authorities I have in other parts of the Red arrested more than 150 terrorists, Sea, I regret to say that I see more seizing weapons and bomb-making sharks on the fish counter dur- equipment that was intended for ing my weekly shop than I would one of Saudi’s largest oil refineries. during a whole week of diving. LEFT TO RIGHT: Sunlight spills into the corridor of a mosque; Saudi oil refinery at dawn; Desert scene The shark meat generally sells for

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dreds of tonnes of land-fill, but it’s difficult to have on the local and surrounding ecosystems. comprehend how far-reaching the effects of Spear-fishing is very popular in Saudi, both this construction will be, and what effects the within the local communities and with the increased air and water pollution will have. population of Southeast Asian workers that are Projects such as the iconic Palm Jemeriah in present in Jeddah as well as the rest of the Dubai have disrupted the local ecosystems in country. Unfortunately, this has damaged popu- more ways than was originally predicted, but lations of many species of large reef fish. The thankfully now a lot off effort is being put into reefs further offshore have been less affected by undoing this damage. Only time will tell what this though and remain healthy. effect the King Abdullah Economic City will

around ten Saudi Riyals per kilo—less than three US dollars. Much of the coastline of Arabia is currently undergoing major changes. Reclamation of land for huge offshore projects is very common in the Middle East, and countries including Bahrain, the UAE and Qatar are creating huge offshore hous- ing developments to try and attract overseas investors and strengthen economies. Dredging recently began off the sleepy town of Rabigh, which sits north of Jeddah in preparation for an ambitious building project—the King Abdullah Economic City. This kind of construction will obvi- ously effect the local ecosystems. Infact, most CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT INSET: Hammerhead shark on the butch- of the local ecosystem will be covered in hun- er’s block; Juvenile shark on display in a fish market; Jeddah skyline; Jeddah airport; Store with the local fashion; Ancient Saudi fort 45 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED adventure Saudi Arabia

Jeddah Arabia continues to face a big problem projects. The city of Jeddah is where much of the with illegal immigration from poorer To get to the more impressive sites you diving in Saudi Arabia is focused. Jeddah neighbouring countries, and the coast- need to get offshore. Reefs such as Abu attracts large numbers of expatriate guard’s strict rules are an effort to reduce Faramish, Abu Madafi and Shi’b al Kebir workers attracted to the Kingdom by this problem, as well as curb smuggling provide truly world class diving. In these the big salaries that are often available of illegal contraband. Because of these areas, visibility is often excellent, 20-25m. when working for large Saudi companies. regulations, many Hotel chains have The quality and diversity of soft and hard Jeddah is seen to be more liberal than set-up small dive operations in private corals is very high, and you’ll spot all the cities such as Riyadh, the capital, and beaches. usual Red Sea reef fish alongside some as such, there has long been an expat Here, you pay a nominal entry fee larger specimens that are generally more community present. There are a number to get what can feel like a little piece difficult to see in more commonly dived of dive shops and boat operators that of paradise, away from the strict every areas. cater for this diving scene. day rules of Saudi. Men and women Jeddah port is the busiest port in Saudi, Shore diving is very popular in Saudi, can socialize together, which is normally and as one would expect, a few of the as you often face difficulties with the forbidden, and women can remove ships on their way to or from the port local authorities when planning boat their Abaya without fear of punishments have inevitably ended up on the bottom trips. Permission must be attained ahead from the authorities. Many people shore of the sea. Mismari, the Cable Wreck of time before any private vessel may dive from these private beaches, and and Chicken Wreck are just a few of the head out to sea, and failure to do so the reefs are very healthy, although wrecks that are easily accessible lying in can result in heavy penalties including sometimes the visibility can be poor just 20-30meters of water, so allowing for ABOVE: Descending with spearo; TOP RIGHT: Diver explores the wreck of the Mismarie confiscation of diving permits. Saudi due to sedimentation from construction long leisurely wreck dives.

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Away from the more frequented div- Arabia can enjoy an abundance ing areas, there exists miles of coastline of beautiful reefs, devoid of the that remains largely unexplored by crowds of divers found at many western divers. From personal experi- popular sites in other areas of ence, the diving in these areas can the Red Sea. Maybe one day, differ dramatically. Head south and vis- when things have changed and ibility generally deteriorates, and there relaxed in Saudi Arabia, people are some areas that are completely will be able to visit and appreciate devoid of life. Head north, near to what’s there, not only the diving, Wedjh, and you can drop in on spots but also the historical sites, beauti- where there are huge numbers of reef ful deserts and wildlife. fish and pelagic fish including Tuna, Let’s just hope that the authori- Spanish Mackrel and Barracuda as well ties realise what potential they as healthy numbers of sharks includ- have lying right beneath their ing Hammerheads, Silvertips and Silkys. noses, or beneath the waves, and When you look at the size of the coast- that they must implement meas- line and how little of it has been devel- ures to properly protect the reef diving that is on offer in Saudi Arabia, oped, it’s tantalising to think what wan- and regulate the numbers and move- but in ways it’s nice knowing that ders are waiting to be discovered. ments of divers. there are places out there that remain For now, divers who are lucky enough It’s sad that so few people have untouched, pristine and waiting to be LEFT TO RIGHT: Scene from the Cable wreck; Diver examines a propeller; Interior of the Mismarie to gain access to the Kingdom of Saudi been able to experience the amazing discovered. ■

47 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEBANON SYRIA LEFT: Map of Saudi Arabia and global map highlighting region

IRAQ BOTTOM LEFT: Whitetip shark IRAN IS. JORDAN

fact file Tabūk KUWAIT Saudi Arabia Languages Arabic Ra’s al Khafjī Dubā Hā’il Al Jubayl Deco Chambers Buraydah BAHRAIN Ad Dammām Persian Jeddah GNP Hospital Gulf Al Hufūf QATAR Decompression Chamber Medina EGYPT (966-2) 682-3200 Yanbu’al source: www.cia.gov RIYADH U.A.E. Riyadh King Faisal Specialist Bahr Hospital & Research Centre alignment History Islam was born in Saudi Arabia, ism. King Abdallah has Jiddah Mecca approximate placed on major economic activities. Hold- (966-1) 4647272 pager 8517 which is home to two of Islam’s holiest continued the cau- ing 25 percent of the world’s proven pe- Jubail Armed forces hospital KANB shrines in Mecca and Medina. In fact, the tious reform program, Aţ Ţā’if troleum reserves, the country ranks as the official title of the king is the Custodian of which was started largest exporter of petroleum and serves Warning to travelers Jabal the Two Holy Mosques. In 1932, the modern earlier when he was Red Sawdā’ OMAN as a leading power in OPEC. The petro- Check your travel advisory for updates Saudi state was founded by Abd al-Aziz crown prince. In 2005, SUDAN Sea leum sector makes up roughly 75 percent on travel to Saudi Arabia. Due to attacks bin Abd al-Rahman Al Saud (Ibn Saud) the government held Jīzān of budget revenues, 90 percent of export targeting foreigners in recent years, many after a three decade campaign to unify elections nationwide earnings and 45 percent of GDP. The travel advisories are recommending that most of the Arabian Peninsula. Today, his for half the members of ERITREA YEMEN private sector makes up about 40 percent foreigners avoid or leave Saudi Arabia son, Abdallah bin Abd al-Aziz, rules the 179 municipal councils Arabian of GDP. About 5.5 million foreign workers unless on essential business. According to Sea country according to the country’s Basic in order to promote ETHIOPIA contribute to the Saudi economy, particu- security departments, more attacks on for- Law of 1992. In 1990, Saudi Arabia accept- an increase in political larly in the service and oil sectors. After high eigners are being planned. If you must stay ed the Kuwaiti royal family and 400,000 participation. King Abdallah completed of Yemen. Coastline: 2,640 km. Terrain: oil revenues led to large budget surpluses, in the country, it is recommended that you refugees after Iraq’s invasion of Kuwait. The the process at the end of the year by Sandy desert—mostly uninhabited. Lowest Riyadh substantially boosted spending on avoid public places where foreigners are country also allowed Western and Arab appointing the remainder of the members point: Persian Gulf 0 m. Highest point: Jabal infrastructure development, job training known to congregate and to make sure troops to deploy on its soil for the liberation of the advisory municipal councils. Saudi Sawda’ 3,133 m. Saudi Arabia’s extensive and education and government salaries. your hotel has a good reputation for main- of Kuwait in 1991. After the liberation of Arabia remains a leading producer of oil coastlines along the Persian Gulf and the A plan to establish six “economic cities” in taining high security precautions. Kuwait, the continuing presence of foreign and natural gas. Located within its borders Red Sea give the country a lot of leverage different regions of the country to promote troops on Saudi soil was a source of tension is approximately 25 percent of the world’s in the shipping of crude oil and other cargo development and diversification has been Visa information & restrictions between the public and the royal family proven oil reserves. In 2005, Saudi Arabia through Persian Gulf and Suez Canal. announced by the government. Natural Sauid Arabia has proclaimed this year the until all operational US troops left the coun- joined the World Trade Organisation. Since resources: petroleum, natural gas, iron ore, Year of the Daiver. Dive tourism in Saudi try in 2003. In the same year, major ter- then, the Saudi government has promoted Climate Rugged, dry desert with wide gold, copper. Agriculture: wheat, barley, Arabia is still new and in development, but rorist attacks compelled the government foreign investment in the kingdom and extremes in temperature. Natural hazards: tomatoes, melons, dates, citrus, mutton, some operators have pre-approved tourist to initiate a strong continuous campaign continued to pursue economic reform and Frequent dust and sand storms. chickens, eggs, milk. Industries: crude oil visas for Europeans and Americans. These against domestic terrorism and extrem- diversification. On-going concerns include production, petroleum refining, basic pet- visas take 2-3 weeks for processing rather a growing population, Environmental issues Desertification; rochemicals, ammonia, industrial gases, than the usual two months. Please note depetion of aquifers underground water resources are being sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), cement, that destinations in Saudi Arabia report and an economy depleated; the lack of permanent bod- fertilizer, plastics, metals, commercial ship that they cannot accept visa applications primarily dependent ies of water bodies and perennial rivers repair, commercial aircraft repair, construc- from women travelling alone or with their on petroleum out- has led to the development of extensive tion boyfriends. Married women must be ac- put and prices. The seawater desalination facilities; coastal companied by their husbands, and single country is governed pollution from oil spills. Saudi Arabia is party Currency Saudi riyal (SAR). Ex- women must be accompanied by a father according to Islamic to several international agreements includ- change rate: 1EUR=5SAR, 1USD=3.75SAR, or brother. law. Government: ing Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate 1GBP=7.4SAR, 1AUD=3SAR, 1SGD=2.46 Monarchy. Capital: Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, Cultural issues & dress code Riyadh Endangered Species, Hazardous Wastes, Population 27,601,038 including Be aware that local custom and law in Geography Saudi Law of the Sea, Marine Dumping, Ozone 5,576,076 non-nationals (July 2007 est.). Saudi Arabia have specific requirements Arabia is located in Layer Protection, Ship Pollution. Ethnic groups: Arab 90%, Afro-Asian 10%. in public dress and behavior, especially for the Middle East. It bor- Religion: Muslim 100%. Internet users: 3.2 mil- women. Consult your local Saudi embassy ders the Persian Gulf Economic Saudi Arabia’s economy is oil- lion (2006) for more information. ■ and the Red Sea north based with strong governmental controls magnus lundgren 48 X-RAY MAG : 17 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED