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Mindingthe Gapwithall Thingsbritish TheSundayTelegraph Sunday11April 2021 *** 7 The SundayCook Eatshoots andleaves... plus ‘italso Minding the definitely helpsifyoulikebrassicas’ To seeyou throughthe Hungry Gap,seek theseout in your local supermarket,greengrocersorfarmers’ market;oronline from Natoora,or from Riverfordand other veg-box schemes gapwith all Cauliflower Like kale and spring greens, this overwintering brassica can last throughuntil the end of April. things British GreenGarlic Alsoknown as “wet garlic”, theimmaturegarlic bulbs and edible greenstalks of garlic plants aremilder and Clare Hargreaves has pledged to eat only lighter than fullymatured garlic cloves, with a food from these shores in 2021. Four months Purple-and white-sprout- nutty-onionyflavour.Eat it ing broccoli freshorcooked, as you in, she faces her hardest challengeyet Natoora’s purple sprouting would spring onions, chives broccoli is grownbyMartin or leeks. Lovely roastedtoo and sonTed whoare the –bulb,leavesand all. thirdand fourth generation of theSanders familyin Rhubarb Worcestershiretogrowit. BuyforcedYorkshire pril is thecruellestmonth, said TS in lockdown. Eating just from Britain’s They alsogrowrare rhubarbuntil mid-April; A Eliot, and as a food lover follow- larder has forced me to seek and cele- white-sprouting broccoli, after that youcan find ing theseasons Ireckon he’s spot brate some great home-grown produce. which comesintoseason outdoor rhubarb. It’s easy on. The handsomeveined plumes of Ieat very little meat, mainlyasatreat, just as thepurple ends. to grow,too. cavoloneroare losing their verveas so Britishvegetableshave been the their plants begin to flower; spuds, car- backbone of my meals. But almost right Spring/salad onions rots andonions storedoverwinterare from thestart,Idiscoveredthat sourc- We maybeusedtobuying starting to sprout; leeks areontheir last ing these from supermarkets or corner these all year round but at legs. The keen wait for spring’s first shops was going to be tricky. Even Mora Farm, which supplies crops, from asparagus to radishesand thoughsome vegwas home-grown Natoora, organic growerOli newpotatoes,begins. Welcome to the much came from Spain or Netherlands Baker likestoproduce them HungryGap. –ifits origin was declared at all. in spring,true to their name. The hungrywhat? As most of us now My findingswereperhapsnot sur- He growsavariety called shop in supermarkets whereseasons prising when youlookatthe stats: we Troy,planting it in autumn scarcelyexist, thecomings and goings grow onlyaround half of our vegeta- to ensurehis soils aren’t left of individual vegetablesisn’t something bles.According to Defra, just 118,000 bareinthe winter months. that troublesmost Britstoday.WhenI hectares (out of atotal17.3million hec- mentionedthe HungryGap on Insta- tares of croppable land) were used to Hungrygap kale gram, manyweremystified. In earlier grow vegetablesin2020. It’s aminus- Rudelyknown as cowkale Spinach and Swiss Chard centuriesifyou gotyour husbandry cule area compared to thosedevotedto as it was often grownfor Both can be grownover wrong,orthe weather was unkind, the grains (manyfor animal feed), sugar ES winter cattle feed in the winter.For spinach, no-dig HungryGap could mean starvation. It’s beetand oilseeds, whoseproduction – AV past, this kale has tender and salad guru CharlesDowding no coincidence it overlapped with unlike horticulture–getssubstantial GRE lightly frilledleavesona swears by avariety called Lenten abstinence. government support. During apan- HAR robust rib withadeep Medania, while hisfavourite So whyamIsubjecting myself to the demic,when thenation’s dietary health ARE minerallytaste and aclassic overwintering Swiss chard ravenousrigours of theHungryGap? has never beensovital, this makes CL bitter edge. is BrightLights, withits I’veset myself thechallengeofeating uncomfortable reading. rainbow of coloured stems. onlyBritishfoodfor 2021. When it Thereare other arguments for grow- ALKER; Kale shoots comestoveg,that mainlymeans ing more veg, too. Being so heavily SW The tiny shoots of kalesjust Cardoon embracing theseasons. There’ll be no dependent on imports makes us sus- AME beforethey go to flowerare Arelative of globearti- cheerypeppers or tomatoes to brighten ceptible to disruptions of our fragile ;J utterly delicious. Chloe chokes, cardoon’s long leaf my plate;ifIwant thosethisyear,I’ll supply systems. Whenitcomes to fruit EY Blackmore, whoco-runs ribs taste like across WL have to wait until highsummer. andveg,the countries we importour RO Little Bishops Organics in betweenceleryand I’vewritten herebeforeabout the more“exotic”produce from tendtobe Devon, sells them as atreat artichoke hearts. Sublime WC reasons for my experiment.It’sspurred themost vulnerable to climate change from her stall at Cullompton bakedinacreamygratin or not by adislike of foreign foods. Iadore and to water scarcity. ANDRE Farmers’Market. friedasfritters. cinnamon and currants, as Easter’s Food policy expertssuch as Professor Clareharvestsbroccolifromthe greenhouse as part of herexperimenttoeat only Britishfood this year tantalising waftsofhot cross buns reminded me;we’ve importedspices Howwould Isurvive have expectedtoreceive just what the if youlove brassicas”. If Ifindleeks, I producedVenushempseed oil,drizzled on asparagus’heels will be Jersey Roy- and driedfruits for over500 years, after farmproduces that week, and many combine them with herbs like lovage or overSharpham’s spelt pasta or a jacket als, and radishes with playful names all. No,it’smorebecausethe first lock- withoutcoffee, tea Community Supported Agriculture tarragon, already blooming in the potato. I’malsowatching for thefirst like French Breakfast and Ping Pong. down introducedmetolocal food pro- schemesdojustthat–so boxesare greenhouse,tomake fritters or atasty shoots of sweetwoodruff, abrilliant Then Ican look forwardtothe sum- ducers, and as Igot to knowthem, I and avocados,people sparser, or even non-existent, in the topping for toast. But my Hungry Gap substitute for vanilla. Formycompan- mer gluts, which this year I’ll be sensi- relishedthe connections and knowing HungryGap.But as Riverfordgrew, it herohas to be Natoora’s purple-and ion, Itake Forage,aguide by Liz Knight. bleenoughtopreservefor nextwinter. wheremyfood came from. Ialsowon- have askedme? found some customerstired of eating white-sprouting broccoli, which Iserve Personally, Ienjoy anticipating crops; As Isalivate overthoughts of what’s deredifsourcing directly from regener- just roots and brassicas in thehungry (a tipfromDan Cox) withwild-garlic somehow, waitingmakes them more to come,Ithank my lucky stars (and ative Britishfarms Iknew,rather than monthssoitsupplemented itsboxes butter and Colston BassettStilton. special when they finally arrive.Tradi- Britain’s veggrowers)that this year’s buying anonymous produce from any- ErikMillstone believe this demands withafew importedvegetables. Hap- Outside in thewoods, there’salready tionallythe Britishasparagus season HungryGap is not as hungryasI’d where, could be better for climate urgent government intervention. pily, though,Riverfordstill providesa averitable glut of wild foodstherefor kicks off on St George’s day(April23), feared.Atleast not yet. changeand biodiversity.Maybefor “The Governmentboasts ‘public UK-onlybox for diehards like me. thepicking. Inever tire of wild garlic but this year therace betweensuper- flavour and nutrition, too. money for public goods’ in its Agricul- During thefirst lockdown Ialsodis- pesto made with Somerset-grown wal- marketstobefirst sawspears goingon Follow Clare’sjourney on Instagram It’s beenaninteresting journey so far. tural Bill, but extraordinarily, this is coveredNatoora, an online greengro- nuts from Sharpham Parkand Devon- sale in Waitroseasearly as Feb24. Hot @larderloutUK When Iannouncedit, thereactionwas interpreted so narrowly it failsto cers whichstartedsupplying domestic amix of enthusiasm, bemusement and include ensuring asafe, healthy and customers after its normal clientele, pity.How would Isurvive without affordable food supply,” he says. “We chefs, were forcedtoclosetheir restau- coffee, tea and avocados, peopleasked? need to invest in horticultural training rants. Youjust order theveg youwant Afriend offered to grow me ginger, so that growing vegetablescan be a via Natoora’s app.Anexciting develop- while aCotswoldfarmer postedme securejob withdecent careerpros- ment hasbeenthe launch last year of barleycup,made from hishome-grown pects, rather than something that’s left Natoora’s first regenerative farmin barley,asasubstitute for coffee. to casual, largelyimported, labour.” partnership withchef-growerDan Cox, Have therebeenfoodsI’vemissed? IrealisedI’d have to look hardifI whousedtoworkatSimon Rogan’s Hell, yes. Chocolate cake as apick-me- wantedinteresting,sustainably-grown L’EnclumeinCumbria. The company up,morning cuppas, breakfast toast Britishveg.Alongside my food writing hopesthe 120-acreCornish farm, called slathered withthick-cut marmalade, to I’mcurrently studying horticulture Melilot after asoil-nourishing sweet mention just three. When it comesto part-time, so I’vehad fun seeking vege- clover, will be thefirst of many. veg, it’s aubergines, meltingly soft in a tables and varieties yourarelyfindin Getting aweeklyveg deliveryhas comforting moussaka. theshops. Afavourite hasbeenRadic- forcedmetobeinventive.Inow cook The trick, Isoonlearned, was to chio ‘Variegata di Castelfranco’–anItal- around what’s in my boxratherthan to focus on thefoods Ihad,rather than ian cross betweenalettuce and
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