Sabi Baekje (Buyeo)
1. Busosanseong Fortress
2. Jeongrimsaji Museum
3. Gungnam Pond
- 1 - Busosanseong 1. The Last Fortification of Baekje, Busosanseong Fortress Fortress
We have now arrived at Busosanseong Fortress , which was built to protect the last capital city of Baekje. Baekje was located in the southwestern part of the Korean Peninsula during the period between 18 B.C and 660 A.D. Baekje established a powerful kingdom around Han River region, and also succeeded to build the foundation for diplomacy and economic relations with Japan and China. However, in 475, Baekje was threatened by emerging power of Goguryeo in the north and the capital city of Baekje was relocated to the south, Gongju. The king of Baekje then resolved a tense political situation and successfully stabilized the kingdom. Although the new capital of Gongju had a natural defensive advantage in terms of preventing enemy attacks, its location limited the kingdom’s potential for expansion into new territory. So, in 538, the king relocated the capital to the south again, this time to Buyeo. It was an area selected for its wide plains and proximity to a deep river, to enable greater development of the kingdom. Although the kingdom continued to suffer from both natural disasters and invasions by its rapacious neighboring kingdoms, the king and his people finally succeeded in constructing the new capital due to their determination and steadfast desire for a new beginning. The new capital was protected by this Busosanseong Fortress . The river surrounding the fortress was advantageous as it both obstructed
- 2 - invaders and provided direct access to the main sea trade routes. The river also teamed with trading vessels from China, Japan and other Southeast Asian countries, transforming Buyeo into a city of active international exchange. Thirteen hundred years later, the palace of Baekje no longer exists, but some buildings have been restored to revive the flavor of the kingdom. The fortress also provides quiet and comfortable hiking routes for tourists. Along the network of enjoyable forest trails, you will see not only various species of trees including pine and white oak, but also squirrels and pheasants. It takes approximately two hours to look around the historic sites here. The walking route may be slightly strenuous but it is worth the effort. Let’s go to Samchung Shrine first and meet three loyalists from the Baekje kingdom.
- 3 - Busosanseong 2.Samchung Shrine-Baekje Loyalists Seongchung Fortress and Heungsu
[Narration] Approximately 1,700 years ago, there were three kingdoms on the Korean Peninsula. Each of these three kingdoms exerted influence on the others’ development through an ongoing series of conflicts and alliances. During the 7th century AD, Baekje attacked Silla, which was based in the southeast, in an attempt to dominate the Korean Peninsula. In desperation, Silla requested assistance from China, which was awaiting an opportunity to gain control of the peninsula. China promptly dispatched troops and the fortunes of war were reversed. Baekje was in disarray once again. However, there were three loyalists who fought for Baekje until the bitter end. This shrine was built to honor those three loyalists. If you look inside the shrine you will see their portraits. Shall we take a closer look at the portrait on the left first? This is Seongchung, a prime minister of Baekje, but he was imprisoned after getting caught up in a political struggle. He was near death due to his poor health, but he predicted that war would soon break out in Baekje. He wrote the following ardent letter to the king. [Seongchung] Your Majesty, please allow me one last chance to speak. During times of war, using geographic features to our advantage is crucial. If an enemy attacks Baekje in the near future, we should prevent them from entering the country by land at Chimhyeon and by sea at Gibeol Port. Please do not neglect to prepare for the possibility of war and please remember what I have said today. [Narration] Nevertheless, the king of Baekje did not listen to his faithful advice, and he soon passed away in prison. Four years later, Silla troops invaded Baekje and the king was so flustered and confused. He held a council to draw up countermeasures. However, his loyal subjects disagreed with each other and the state of confusion intensified. The
- 4 - king finally wrote a letter to Heungsu, a wise loyal subject who was living in exile. Heungsu replied as follows to the king. [Heungsu] Your Majesty, I’m sending you a letter of regards. Because the enemy has a large number of troops and we do not, Baekje should not engage in war on a plain. Please remember the advice you received from Seongchung four years ago. [Narration] Unfortunately, the king did not accept Heungsu’s faithful advice either. Other loyal subjects were opposed to his suggestion, and they asserted that his resentment at being exiled may have led him to be disloyal and untrustworthy. Meanwhile, Silla troops advanced on and captured the castle of Baekje. Only then did the king of Baekje lament his rejection of good advice. [King] I regret not listening to the advice of Seongchung and Heungsu. [Narration] Although Seongchung and Heungsu were abandoned by the king, they remained loyal and sincere toward Baekje until their deaths. Even today, they are praised as the last great loyalists of Baekje. Now let’s learn about the third loyalist, Gyebaek.
●Gyebaek, the Great General of Baekje
[Narration] Do you know the story about Sparta’s King Leonidas, who led 300 Spartans in a battle against a million Persian soldiers? The story was made into the movie titled 300. Then, do you know that Baekje also had a great general named Gyebaek? He is the only one shown in the portrait on the right. In 660, Gyebaek fought with just 5,000 soldiers against 50,000 invading troops from Silla. Standing before his soldiers, he delivered a rousing speech. [Gyebaek] Many years ago, 5,000 soldiers from the state of Yue in China defeated 700,000 troops from the state of Wu. If we are prepared to die for our kingdom, there is no reason why we cannot win this battle! My leadership, together with your desperate courage, will give us the strength to defeat the 50,000 Silla troops, and Baekje will emerge victorious! [Narration] It was actually a hopeless war. Before entering the battlefield, Gyebaek stopped by his house to kill his wife and children,
- 5 - choosing an honorable death over losing their kingdom and risking enslavement. Wearing his blood-stained armor, Gyebaek ran towards the battlefield, thus beginning one of the fiercest battles in the history of Korea. The desperate fighting by Baekje resulted in four consecutive victories, thereby raising the morale of Baekje’s soldiers. For its part, Silla dispatched a lone 16-year-old soldier to the enemy camp as part of the Silla general’s secret scheme to boost his troops’ morale. The young soldier was apprehended by Baekje soldiers, but when General Gyebaek saw the brave young soldier, he exclaimed: [Gyebaek] How could Silla send a soldier as young as you to this cruel battlefield? I do not want to spill your young blood on Baekje’s land. I will let you return alive. [Narration] However, following the young soldier’s return to the Silla camp, Silla troops, including the young soldier, again attacked Baekje. Gyebaek could not spare his life twice and so he cut off the boy soldier’s head and sent it to Silla. The death of the 16-year-old boy changed the atmosphere of battle completely. The grueling battle ended at last with the death of General Gyebaek and a victory for Silla. There’s a saying that a winner is remembered but a loyalist is permanently imprinted on the mind. Gyebaek, the last loyalist of Baekje and a great symbol of devotion and fidelity, is honored at this shrine.
- 6 - Busosanseong 3. Flowers Fall at Nakhwa Rock Fortress
The cliffs at the end of the northern side of Buso Mountain Fortress are known as the cliffs of ‘falling flowers’. Where did that name come from? There is a story that explains the origin of the name. In 660, Baekje’s Sabi Castle fell and the collapse of the kingdom was imminent. Sabi Castle was destroyed after the invasion, and acts of arson and plunder were commonplace. A group of Baekje women were being pursued by the enemy and finally reached these rocky cliffs. With the enemy close behind them and no way of escape, the women chose death over dishonor. One by one, they threw themselves from the top of the cliff into the river. Later, people described the sight of the Baekje women falling into the river as being akin to falling flower petals, and so these cliffs were called ‘Nakhwa Rock’, meaning ‘Falling Flowers Rock’. The immeasurable sorrow of the Baekje women who shared the grim fate of fallen Baekje has been made the subject of tragic literature throughout the years. The background to their story is right here at Falling Flowers Rock.
- 7 - Busosanseong 4. Goransa Temple Fortress
If such a thing as the elixir of life existed, would you refuse to drink it? In the film Pirates of the Caribbean, Captain Jack Sparrow found the spring of eternal youth, but he declined to drink it and instead gave it to his lover. Here in Goransa Temple, there’s a mystical spring just like in the film. We will tell you about it just once, so listen carefully. The mineral spring behind Goransa Temple is the secret source. Now let’s discover the legend of the spring. A long time ago, a harmonious, elderly, childless couple lived in a village nearby. One day, the old woman heard from an ascetic that the spring water from behind Goransa Temple rejuvenated the body. Because the woman was eager to have a child, she urged her husband to find the mystical spring and drink from it. Driven by her earnest demands, the husband climbed up the mountain to the back of the temple. There he found a clean, cool water springing out of a rock, and began to drink it. He instantly felt younger, so he drank more and more of the water. The woman, who had been waiting a long time for her husband to return, became curious and worried whether something had happened to him. So she climbed up the mountain to find her husband. When she arrived at the spring, she was astounded by what she saw. A beautiful, crying, newborn baby was lying on the ground wearing her husband’s clothes! She realized that the baby was her husband and regretted not telling him that just one cup of water made the body three years younger. The woman brought the baby home and raised him to become a prime minister of Baekje. King Uija, the last king of Baekje, once tasted this spring water and drank it every day thereafter. It was hard work carting the precious water from the temple to the palace all the time, and as there was a possibility that the servants would be tempted to substitute it with impure water from nearer sources. So, the king ordered that the water be delivered along with a plant that was unique to Goransa Temple as a proof. It is said that King Uija’s prodigious energy and lack of stomach complaints was due to the
- 8 - benefits of the spring water. In fact, this water is known to be effective in treating stomach disorders. Would you like to try it?
(spring water)
- 9 - Jeongrimsaji 1. Five-story Stone Pagoda of Jeongnimsa Temple Site Museum
Do you see the stone pagoda reaching high into the sky? The spectacle presented by the solid pagoda, standing in the middle of the open Jeongnimsa Temple Site, is overwhelming. Jeongnimsa Temple was located in the middle of the capital of Baekje. The Five-story Stone Pagoda represents the desire of Baekje to strengthen public solidarity and build a stronger kingdom by honoring Buddhist principles. There were many stone pagodas in the Buddhist kingdom of Baekje, and as such it was known as the ‘kingdom of the stone pagoda’. Unfortunately, only two of them have survived to the present day. This stone pagoda was constructed during a period of transition, when artisans switched the material used to construct pagodas from wood to stone. Wood was easier to work with, so why do you think they chose to begin making the pagodas out of stone? Although wood was traditionally a popular material, it was susceptible to fire and decay over time. To signify eternal desires, stone was a more suitable material. Another reason was that granite was readily available and abundant in Baekje. Please take the time to appreciate the beauty of the stone pagoda. Each story of the pagoda becomes progressively smaller and narrower as the tower ascends. The harmonious
- 10 - proportions of the structure give those who view it an impression of stability. Another feature worth noting is that this stone pagoda appears simultaneously weighty and delicate with its beautiful, soft curves, a balance that would have been almost impossible to achieve had the pagoda been constructed out of wood. If you look at the four pillars supporting the first story, you will see that each one has convex curves in the middle. This Korean traditional technique was applied to enhance the visual stability of the construction, and surprisingly, similar technique was also used for the pillars in the Temple of the Parthenon, ancient Greece's most legendary building. The thin, broad roofing stones are gently lifted at the four edges. This feature is influenced by the style of earlier wooden pagodas, and accentuates the elegance and delicacy of the pagoda. This pagoda is gently charismatic and dignified. It typifies Buddhist art in Baekje. However, the tragic sentiment of Baekje is also evident here. Upon the fall of Baekje, a Chinese commander defaced the pagoda by carving on it the phrase ‘Monument commemorating the suppression of Baekje’. The traces of the inscription can still be seen on the broad wall of the first story of the pagoda. The pagoda, which has been standing here for 1,400 years, is a symbol of Buddhism in Baekje and a sad reminder of the kingdom’s tragic history. There is an ancient Korean ritual for making a wish called tapdori. Why don’t you relax now, walk slowly around the pagoda, and make a wish?
- 11 - Jeongrimsaji 2. Baekje Buddhism Museum
Welcome to Jeongnimsaji Museum where you can learn all about Buddhism in the Kingdom of Baekje. From now on, we will learn about the introduction of Buddhism to Baekje and the splendid Buddhist culture that developed there. Buddhism was first introduced into Baekje during the late 4th century when the Indian monk named Marananta traveled to Baekje from China. At that time, indigenous Shamanist beliefs were predominant, but as the kingdom developed socially, there was a need for a strong, political ideal to unite the population and center power on the king. Eventually, the king of Baekje decided to adopt Buddhism as the national faith. During the corresponding period in the West, Christianity was adopted as a transnational religion. Buddhism in Baekje then developed further with the support of the government and many large temples were established. Buddhist statues with benevolent smiles were produced and huge budgets were reserved for Buddhist assemblies at which prayers would be offered for the peace and prosperity of the Baekje royal family. In Chinese historical records, Baekje was described as a kingdom with many temples and pagodas. During the early part of the 6th century, Baekje sent Buddhist monks to study abroad in India. Upon their return, the scholars drafted Buddhist scriptures. Traveling to India must have been an astonishing experience, especially considering the means of transportation available at the time. As Buddhism was gradually adopted as the national religion by the people, it came to exercise an ever greater influence on both the art and diplomatic relations of the kingdom. In the 6th century, Baekje dispatched many Buddhist monks armed with Buddhist scriptures to Japan to disperse the religion.
- 12 - Jeongrimsaji 3. Baekje Pagoda Museum
[Narration] Many centuries ago, Buddha Sakyamuni achieved nirvana and later, when his body was cremated, eight sariras were found among the remains. The eight sariras were distributed to various different regions of India, and in each region a tower was built to enshrine them. This is the origin of the Buddhist pagoda structure. In English, a Buddhist pagoda is often referred to as a stupa, but the word originates from the ancient Indian language known as Sanskrit. A stupa is defined as ‘a mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics, typically the sariras of Buddha’. Wooden pagodas were popular in Baekje, but were superseded by stone pagodas in the 7th century. Unlike wooden pagodas, stone pagodas were resistant to fire, and the stone used to construct them, granite, was abundant in Baekje. This exhibition reproduces a typical scene from the site where the Five-story Stone Pagoda of Jeongnim Temple was constructed. Let’s listen to an interview with an artisan from Baekje and hear what he has to say. Hello there! [Artisan] Hello! [Narration] We’d like to know how the stone pagoda was built. [Artisan] Sure, ask me as many questions as you like. [Narration] If you make pagodas out of stone, they will lack the gentle softness of those made out of wood, right? [Artisan] Not really. The building material is the only point of difference. The stone pagodas were made in such a way as to retain the grace of the original wooden pagodas. Can you see the convex curve in the middle of the pillar? It is an architectural technique known as entasis and it was used frequently in ancient Greece. The columns of the Parthenon utilize the entasis effect, slightly tapering from the middle upward. The curvature of the eaves resembles the nose of a beautiful woman, don’t you think? [Narration] It really does. It’s amazing that such delicate curves were crafted from hard stone.
- 13 - [Artisan] The architectural design was the most important aspect of constructing each stone pagoda. The hard granite slabs were designed to fit each part of the pagoda. Based on a solid foundation, the stone pieces were neatly stacked from the bottom up to assemble the structure. This complicated process was necessary to transform the raw blocks of granite into a delicate, beautiful stone pagoda such as this. [Narration] Wow! I am impressed by the progressive architectural technology used by the artisans of Baekje. Good luck with finishing the construction and thank you for kindly explaining how it was done.
( Baekje Pagoda)
- 14 - Jeongrimsaji 4. Buddha Statue in Baekje Museum
Here is a reproduction of a site where statues of Buddha were manufactured. Buddha statues made in Baekje are divided into four categories, depending on the type of material used, namely, stone, wood, gilt-bronze, and clay. Here we will learn about how gilt-bronze statues were made. Look at the three different stages of construction in front of you. The first figure is made of waxed clay. Following an architectural design, the first step was to make a frame using metal wire. The metal frame was then covered in clay and the rough shape of the statue molded. The statue was next covered with wax, and after that, the shape of the statue was refined. The figure was then covered with mud to form an outer frame and left to dry. The next figure is made of brass. To make this figure, a dried, waxed Buddha statue was fired in a kiln. This process involved melting the wax between the inner and outer frames, thus leaving a gap. It was important to remove every trace of wax as otherwise the casting process would be compromised. Molten brass was then poured into the gap and left to cool and harden, whereupon the inner and outer frames were removed. Finally, you can see that the statue has been covered with gold. This last step is the highlight in the sequence of processes. Powdered gold was melted in mercury and the liquid was evenly applied to the statue. When the statue was heated, the mercury evaporated, leaving behind only the gold residue. The elegant, graceful Buddha statues of Baekje were crafted in this complicated manner, attesting to the exceptional talent of the kingdom’s artisans. The round faces and tranquil smiles of the statues give people a feeling of comfort and put them at their ease.
- 15 - Jeongrimsaji 5. Jeongnimsa Temple, the Heart of Buyeo, Capital of Museum Baekje This is a 1:12 scale model of Jeongnimsa Temple, the ancient temple that was located at the center of Buyeo, the third capital of the Baekje kingdom. You might be surprised by the size of the temple. Why do you think such a large temple was situated in the center of the capital? And why did they build a temple? Let’s find out. In the middle of the 6th century, Baekje relocated its capital to Buyeo in order to enable further development of the kingdom. The transfer of the capital had been the long-cherished project of the kingdom and was meticulously planned over a long period of time. The capital Buyeo was a new city built based on exhaustive city planning and elaborate preparation for pre-development. The construction of a temple in the middle of the capital signified the wish for the unification of the society and the creation of a powerful kingdom based on the national principles of Buddhism. In addition, it was a place of assembly, and royal ceremonies and rituals were performed here to offer prayers for the continued prosperity of the royal family. As such, this temple reflected the spirit of Baekje. Jeongnimsa Temple fell along with the kingdom, and was burnt to the ground. However, many of the relics found on the site of the former temple are of inestimable value in terms of reviving awareness of the culture of Baekje. Symbolized by the original Five-story Stone Pagoda, Jeongnimsa Temple is a valuable cultural asset that reflects the essence of the flourishing Buddhist culture of Baekje.
- 16 - Jeongrimsaji 6. The Model of the Excavation Site Museum
This exhibit is a model of the excavation site of Jeongnim Temple. Have you ever wondered how archaeological remains are excavated? Let’s find out how the excavation project was managed. The work was conducted in four distinct stages. The first stage consisted of subsurface exploration based on the exposed remains of the temple site, while the second stage consisted of prospecting, which established the guidelines of the excavation project based on the relics found there. However, the real excavation work only began during the third stage, before moving on to a fourth and final stage involving analysis of the data derived from the excavated relics and remains, and the drawing of informed conclusions about the nature of the temple. The temple was first excavated by the Japanese during the Japanese Occupation of Korea, and a number of further excavations were conducted thereafter. The culmination of the combined research concluded that the temple was built during the Baekje era and that the temple was reconstructed during the Goryeo Dynasty in the early part of the 11th century. The excavation work conducted in Jeongnim Temple revealed the dignity of Baekje and its splendid Buddhist culture. It also offered a wealth of important materials which are crucial for the restoration of Baekje culture.
- 17 - Gungnam Pond 1. Royal Pond of Baekje, Gungnam Pond
Welcome to Gungnam Pond! Look around the large pond and imagine you are a Korean king from the distant past! The Pond was built in 634 A.D., and this was the first artificial pond to be created on the Korean Peninsula. The king of Baekje loved to visit the pond. It was surrounded by harmonious willow trees and evoked the gentle beauty of the Orient. According to historical records, the water for the pond was brought from a source five miles away, and a man-made island was constructed in its center. The original stonework foundations of the island were found at the bottom of the pond. It is remarkable that the people of Baekje possessed such progressive technology as was required to build the pond. The island in the middle and the arbor were restored during the 1960s according to information contained in historical records. Let’s cross the bridge to the island. If you were to visit Gungnam Pond during the summer, the air would be filled with the scent of lotus flowers. Lotuses in full bloom present a great spectacle, and a lotus festival is held here every summer. Fourteen hundred years ago the king of Baekje would also have enjoyed the sweet fragrance of the lotuses and the surrounding garden from the arbor on the island. Have you arrived at the arbor? Take a seat and, while you’re relaxing, why not listen to a love story associated with this
- 18 - pond. According to a legend about King Mu, who ordered the construction of Gungnam Pond, he was born and raised outside the palace without knowing his ancestry because of political reasons. He fell in love with the beautiful Princess Seonhwa of the Silla kingdom, at a time when Silla was an adversary of Baekje. He was unable to approach her because of his low social rank and, what’s more, because she was the princess of an enemy kingdom. He taught local children to sing a song with words suggesting that the princess was secretly courting a man from Baekje. Upon hearing news of the song, the king of Silla became enraged and threw the princess out of the palace. The would-be suitor was waiting for Princess Seonhwa outside the palace, and when she appeared, he took her to Baekje and married her. Later, King Mu was at last able to ascend the Baekje throne and, as a gift to his wife, he ordered the construction of this pond. This famous love story is the Baekje version of Romeo and Juliet. You will see statues of the couple everywhere in Buyeo, so be sure to look out for them! The Mystical Tale of Gungnam Pond There is a mystical tale surrounding the birth of King Mu, who ordered the construction of the artificial pond. During the Baekje period, a beautiful and gentle-hearted woman lived near the small, natural pond that originally existed here. One day, when strong winds blew through the willow forest, a young man came to visit her. This happened on numerous occasions until the woman finally fell in love with the young man, but she was unable to find out who he was. Suddenly, an idea came to her. The next time he visited her, she sewed a long thread into the man’s clothes and when he left her in the early morning, she followed the trail left by the thread. When she reached the end, she discovered that the thread was attached to the body of a dragon. The young man was actually a dragon who lived in the pond. Soon after that, the beautiful woman realized she was pregnant, and the son she gave birth to later became King Mu. Just like Greek mythology, most legends about the births of Korean kings and heroes refer to a marriage between a divine being and an earthly one. Especially in Eastern culture, a dragon symbolized a king, and so a king was often regarded as the son of a dragon in Eastern mythology. The story suggests that King Mu, conceived by the
- 19 - union of a dragon and a woman, was imbued with supernatural power, a reputation befitting the new King and Baekje’s fervent hopes for revival.
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