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Sacred Island.Book SACRED ISLAND Sacred Island A B UDDHIST P ILGRIM’S G UIDE TO S RI L ANKA Bhante S. Dhammika BUDDHIST P UBLICATION S OCIETY KANDY • S RI L ANKA Buddhist Publication Society P.O. Box 61 54 Sangharaja Mawatha Kandy Sri Lanka http://www.bps.lk First edition: 2008 Reprinted: 2018 Copyright © 2008 by S. Dhammika All rights reserved. Permission to reprint from this publication in whole or in part should be obtained from the publisher. Pictures by Bh. Nyanatusita, Bh. Dhammajoti, Bh. Dhammika. National Library of Sri Lanka Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Dhammika Himi, S. Sacred Island / S. Dhammika Himi, Edited by Bhikkhu Nyanatusita.-Kandy: Buddhist Publication Society, 2007— 224.p.; 21.5 cm ISBN 955–24–0271–9 Price: i. 294. 3435 DDC 21 ii. Title : iii. Bhikkhu Nyanatusita ed. 1. Buddhism—Sacred Places ISBN: 978-955-24-0271-5 Typeset at the BPS in Fontin_BPS. Printed by Champika Printers, 343, Colombo Rd, Kurunegala. CONTENTS PREFACE VII INTRODUCTION 1 Pilgrimage in Buddhism ..................................................................4 Sources of History ..........................................................................12 Hints for Pilgrims ...........................................................................20 Itineraries ........................................................................................22 Wayfaring in Sri Lanka ..................................................................24 Meditation Centers .........................................................................27 Libraries ..........................................................................................29 Museums ..........................................................................................30 Festivals and Holidays ...................................................................32 Guides ...............................................................................................35 Food .................................................................................................36 Etiquette ..........................................................................................37 SACRED C ITIES 39 Anuradhapura .................................................................................39 Polonnaruwa ..................................................................................68 HOLY M OUNTAINS 86 Mihintale ..........................................................................................86 Sìgiriya ..............................................................................................99 Sri Páda .........................................................................................109 Tiriyáya .........................................................................................120 GREAT I MAGES 125 Budurewagala ...............................................................................129 Maligawila ....................................................................................131 Tantrimale ......................................................................................134 Weligama .......................................................................................136 TEMPLES 138 Kelaniya ........................................................................................139 Magul Mahávihára .......................................................................145 Medirigiriya ...................................................................................147 Nálanda ..........................................................................................150 The Temple of the Tooth .............................................................153 CAVE M ONASTERIES AND H ERMITAGES 164 Aluvihára .......................................................................................168 SACRED ISLAND Arankele ........................................................................................ 170 Dambulla ....................................................................................... 172 Dimbulágala .................................................................................. 178 Hatthikucchi ................................................................................. 182 Rájagala .......................................................................................... 186 Ritigala ........................................................................................... 188 Sìtulpahuwa ................................................................................. 193 MISCELLANEOUS P LACES 197 Dìghavápi ...................................................................................... 197 Kantarodai ..................................................................................... 198 Kirivehera ...................................................................................... 199 Kudumbigala ................................................................................ 200 Mahiyangana ................................................................................ 201 Nágadìpa ....................................................................................... 203 Sasseruwa ...................................................................................... 204 Tissamaháráma ............................................................................. 205 DATES OF M ONARCHS M ENTIONED IN THE T EXT 209 BIBLIOGRAPHY 211 INDEX 213 ˜ vi ˜ PREFACE This book is meant primarily for Buddhists, or those interested in Buddhism, who are visiting Sri Lanka, and thus differs somewhat from conventional guidebooks. It covers only places of religious importance; it covers them in more detail and from a very different perspective. The aim is to highlight not just the historical and artistic interest of each place, but also its spiritual significance and associations. The golden age of Theravádin spirituality in Sri Lanka ended around the 13th century and only places dating from before that time are highlighted here because they often feature in the sacred literature and legends of Theravada. Of the many temples and monasteries in Sri Lanka dating from after this time the only one mentioned here is the Temple of the Tooth, because of its precious relic that goes back to at least to the 4th century CE. This book owes much to people whose names I have forgotten or never even knew—hermits who welcomed me into their caves, abbots who let me rest for a few days in their monasteries and simple peasants who gave me food when I walked for alms in their villages. I would have never seen the Sacred Island so widely or so thoroughly if it had not been for the kindness and hospitality of these people and I take this opportunity to thank them. I would like to thank Tissa Devendra whose knowledge of Sri Lankan history and archaeology has often inspired me to set out on yet another journey to explore something I missed last time or had not heard about before. I must also thank Raja De Silva, former Director General of the Archaeological Survey, for sharing with me some of his thoughts about the true significance of Sìgiriya. Mr. B. E. Wijesuriya, the general secretary of the Royal Asiatic Society and Miss S. Wijenayaka, the Society’s librarian, uncomplainingly helped me find material when I needed it. Finally, I must express my gratitude to Sunil, who accompanied me on many of my earlier journeys, and particularly Viraj, whose patience, practicality and companionship have made many of my travels so much more enjoyable. S. Dhammika ˜ vii ˜ j INTRODUCTION Think of yourself as a pilgrim And your teachers as guides. Think of their instructions as the road And the practice as the land of your destination. Gandavyúha Sútra Sri Lanka is a small pear-shaped island situated just off the southeastern tip of the Indian sub-continent. It is not a big island being only 436 kilometers from north to south and 225 kilometers from east to west at its widest point. Talaimannar, the western most extent of the Island, is a finger of land that juts out into the Gulf of Mannar and is a mere 32 kilometers from India. The western and southern coastal plains of Sri Lanka are lush and tropical and this is where the country’s fabled spices come from. Regular rains mean that crops, fruits and flowers grow in abundance. The north and east are hot and dry and cultivation is only possible with the help of an extensive system of irrigation. The south-central region is made up of high jungle-covered mountains often shrouded in mist. It is from here that the Island’s many crystal-clear rivers begin their journey to the sea. Sri Lanka has been known by a bewildering variety of names throughout its history. Its earliest name, Tambapanni, first appears in one of King Asoka’s inscriptions and is the origin of the name the Greeks knew the Island by Taprobane. The name means “Copper- colored Hands.” According to ancient legend, when the first immigrants arrived in the Island, they threw themselves on the shore and the rust-colored earth stained their hands. The Sinhalese have long called their home “Lanka Island” (Lankádìpa) or just “Lanka.” In the Sanskrit literature of India, it was usually known as the “Island of Gems” (Ratnadìpa), “Island of Lions” (Sinhaladìpa), or simply as “Sinhala,” from which the English name Ceylon is derived. In 1973, the country changed its name from Ceylon to Sri Lanka, meaning “Lustrous Lanka.” The Sinhalese people trace their origins back to the semi- historical Prince Vijaya and his followers, who migrated to the Island from northern
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