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Photos by SANDESH kadur Cloud pleasers Two orphaned clouded leopard cubs rescued in offer a unique insight into the lives of these elusive felines. STUART BLACKMAN finds out more.

he adoptive human parents of Runaa and Khota knew when it was time to release them back into the wild. The twins had just killed a stray unlucky enough to cross their path in the forest reserve that had been their home for 18 months. A dog might not be the cubs’ most natural prey, Tbut it was a far sterner test of their predatory skills than the chickens on which they had been trained. And what is a without predatory skills? Not that Runaa and Khota are particularly large – they’re midway in size between a tabby and a . Yet they are big cats, sharing an elite branch of the evolutionary tree with , lions, leopards, and snow leopards, with which they are placed in the subfamily . But while the closest relatives of clouded leopards are staples of wildlife TV documentaries and magazine covers – even the is now giving up its secrets – this species remains defiantly camera-shy.

Stealth cats “Clouded leopards are nocturnal, arboreal, secretive and solitary,” says Indian wildlife photographer Sandesh Kadur, who took the extraordinary images on these pages. “No film has ever been made about them in the wild.” Sandesh should know. He’s been scouring the remotest forests of north-east India for clouded leopards for the past three years. “I’m pretty sure that I’ve been spotted by them,” he says. “But I haven’t been fortunate enough to spot one back. I’ve found pug marks and scat – that’s all.” He’s in good company. Zoologists working on clouded leopards aren’t guaranteed a sighting either. “Even people Runaa and Khota explore working extensively in the field seldom glimpse their feline their forest surroundings. At first, Wildlife Trust for study subjects,” admits Andy Hearn, who runs Oxford India staff rehabilitating the University’s Bornean Clouded Leopard Programme. And cubs kept the inquisitive the veteran conservationist George Schaller hasn’t had orphans on long leads. like more conventional pet kittens. were affectionate, craving attention despite their wild origins, the cubs sandeshkadur.com find outmore atwww. wildlife photographers; one of India’s leading orphaned cubs. He is s photos by 66 andesh kadur wildlife rescue centre. arrived atthe WTI’s balls of fur when they weak, frightened little Runaa and Khota were BBC Wildlife about the he heard luck when believe his couldn’t

and dentition is not known, since their typical feeding big cat–100degrees,compared with65degreesinlions. as in tigers). Their gape is also wider than that of any other teeth in relation to skull size of all big cats (almost as large used for balance when climbing, and the longest canine They’re morelikecloudsthanspots,hence thename. giraffes, butwithapaleinteriordottedsmallerspots. Their spots are much larger, however – not unlike those of Superficially, clouded leopards look like small leopards. Br clouded leopardcubs,hesawanunmissableopportunity. (WTI) wasplanningtorehabilitateapairoforphaned sitting onatrailinforestLaos.” country,” he says, “I’ve come across just one in the wild, much more luck. “In all my wandering in clouded leopard Why clouded leopards have such an impressive gape Other tell-tale features include an unusually long tail, So when Sandesh heard that the Wildlife Trust of India o thers in arms climbing trees. S the cubs – by they practise andesh films andesh films off-lead –as now allowed was mostly trial and error. before, so theprocess leopard cubs to thewild return orphaned clouded No onehadattempted to

straight backto India todocumenttheprocess.” he heardaboutthe plan.“Idroppedeverything and rushed release into the wild. Sandesh was out of the country when send the feisty felines to a , they would train them for to risksomethingneverattempted before.Rather than food astheyexercisedtheirrapidly growingmuscles. mischievous, too,playingwithone anotherandwiththeir attention like more conventional pet kittens. They were wild origins, the cubs were affectionate, craving human survival becameweek-to-week,thenmonth-to-month. They were weak, but under the care of WTI vets, day-to-day leopards. Just a few days old, their eyes hadn’t yet opened. Rescue ontheoutskirtsofKokrajhar city. them andhandedtotheWTI’sCenter forWildlife to sell.But wordreachedforestofficials, whoconfiscated that theywereleopardsortigers,andtookthecubshome with mystified their finders. The workers thought of aholeintreefelledbywoodcuttersnearIndia’s border the throatandholdingittopointofsuffocation. other big cats. That is, prey is despatched by latching onto behaviour (observed in captivity) is much the same as in When the twins were five months old, the vets decided Staff christened the pair Runaa and Khota. Despite their Only then were the cubs identified as male clouded Nevertheless, the two little balls of fur that tumbled out August 2012

WWF-/PHKA August 2012 tawnier relative. overall thaninits D coa arker andgreyer t colo ur within the ‘clouds’. distinct spots Numerous small, markings

and bodylength. equal to thehead furred tail is roughly species, the thickly As in the mainland t ail

conservation clouded leopards by loss andfragmentation. species is vulnerable andthreatened Like its mainland counterpart, the seen to prey onproboscis monkeys. carnivore onBorneo, where ithasbeen to begreyer anddarker. Itisthelargest spots inside many of them, and tends smaller cloud markings with numerous S each otheraslionsandtigers. genetically they are asdifferent from Though thetwo forms may looksimilar, classification asaseparate species. elsewhere in to be sufficiently different from those on andSumatra were shown In 2006, thecloudedleopards found clouded leopard meet the sunda Two of a kind unda or The islandspecies, known asthe D iard’s clouded leopard, has S its fur. In1995, for example, outh-east Asia to merit researchers found 95pelts exquisite markings fuela lucrative blackmarket in Tachilek wildlife market. The cloudedleopard’s for sale atMyanmar’s BBC Wildlife

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conservation clouded leopards

It wasn’t long before Runaa and Khota were accommodated in tree-house the rehabilitated cages, from where their carers took them on walks to cubs began ‘hunting’ accustom them to the sights and sounds of the forest. golden langurs – or, at least, chasing the At first the cubs were kept on leashes to prevent them poor monkeys from disappearing. But the instant they were allowed ‘off-lead’, tree to tree. their tree-climbing instincts took over. “The cubs raced 30m straight up a tree trunk,” says Sandesh. “We were worried they couldn’t get down again.” But the local fire brigade wasn’t needed: unlike other cats, clouded leopards have hind feet that can swivel backwards, so they descend trees with squirrel-like ease. To begin with, the cubs were trained to hunt domestic fowl, but when they finished off the unfortunate dog it was clear that no more hunting lessons were needed. The Evergreen forests brothers dragged its carcass high into a tree to eat. Shortly in the Himalayan afterwards, in May 2010, they were fitted with white radio- foothills are a clouded leopard stronghold, collars and let off their leashes for the last time. The cats but even here the cats were tracked for several weeks, until floods and tree-falls are hard to find. caused by the monsoon forced their carers to give up. To a playful sealion, The pelt of an adult brown pelicans are clouded leopard Split decision comical creatures – hangs up to dry So little is known about clouded leopards that we didn’t that monstrous bill is in the kitchen of a asking to be tweaked. realise that there were two species until 2006 (see box, Naga tribesman, p67). Andrew Kitchener, Curator of at National near the Indo- Museums Scotland, whose research on the coat patterns border. of different populations was central to that discovery, says that there is an urgent need for more information about almost every aspect of these cats’ biology. “Southern Asia’s forests are disappearing rapidly, s0 basic data about habitat usage, prey, home-range size and population density is desperately needed for both species of clouded leopard,” Kitchener explains. Conservationists must tackle two key issues. “We need to identify dispersal corridors for clouded leopards in an increasingly fragmented landscape.” Hearn says. “And we need to protect and enhance these dispersal routes.” Rampant is not the only threat to clouded leopards: and the illegal sale of their skins and bones also take a heavy toll. Despite the fact that both species are listed on Appendix 1 of CITES, which bans all trade in wild-caught specimens, the cats’ skulls and jawbones are used to decorate tribal swords and trinkets offered to tourists. These macabre souvenirs are sold openly in Government-run handicraft shops.

big cat, small cat Which is which? There are several definitions Roaring some authorities to of ‘big’ and ‘small’ cats, based Only members of the group these species on different criteria. (the lion, tiger, leopard together as big cats. and ) can roar, due to the Size elongated, flexible structure of Genetics Nine species – the lion, tiger, their larynx, the walls of which Recent studies show leopard, jaguar, snow leopard, vibrate as air streams through it. that, genetically speaking, cheetah, mountain lion () the lion, tiger, leopard, and the two clouded leopards – jaguar, snow leopard and are often grouped together as Most felines have a bony, rigid the two clouded leopards big cats on the basis of relatively hyoid bone in the larynx. But in comprise a single group: the Clouded leopards large size. The qualifying size is the cheetah, snow leopard and subfamily Pantherinae. This cannot roar, but their arbitrary, however: a Eurasian Panthera cats, the hyoid is only split from the subfamily , size, genetic make-up can be much heavier than partially ossified (it is mostly which contains all other cats, and possession of a hyoid bone qualify a clouded leopard. flexible cartilage). This has led about 10 million years ago. them as big cats. Top: Tui De Roy/Minden/FLPA; right: Hiroya Minakuchi/Minden/FLPA right: Hiroya De Roy/Minden/FLPA; Tui Top:

68 BBC Wildlife Autumn 2011 August 2012 BBC Wildlife 69 conservation clouded leopards

fact file

Clouded leopards are CLOUDED the most arboreal of all big cats. They LEOPARD have broad, soft feet for leaping, very long nebulosa tails for balance and hind ankles that  weight roll outwards when Male: 16–18 kg; descending trees headfirst. female: 11.5–13.5kg. civets, squirrels and birds.  length  Life-cycle Head and body: 69–107cm; Female gives birth to 1–5 tail: 61–84cm. cubs (usually 2 or 3) after a  id tips gestation period of 88–95 Stocky, medium-sized cat, days. Young are sexually with short legs and a very mature at 20–30 months. long tail. Coat is patterned  Habitat with cloud-like splodges. Primary rainforest; found at  Diet up to 2,500m in . Takes both arboreal and  Status terrestrial prey, including Vulnerable; wild population small deer, bearded pigs, thought to be no more than monkeys, porcupines, palm 10,000 adults.

where in the world

CHINA h i m a l a y a n mountains

Kokrajhar

india

south-east asia

Clouded leopard range

Hunting ghosts hardly anything.) Moreover, safety precautions were still WTI researchers began tracking Runaa and Khota again necessary: “Wherever we went, we were surrounded by in October 2010, after the rains had subsided and the 25 guards armed with AK47s,” Sandesh reveals. roads in the forested Himalayan foothills were passable Happily, traditional ‘eyes-to-the-ground’ tracking once more. But it was dangerous work: political unrest techniques turned up fresh pug marks, scats and tell-tale in the region had brought with it the risk of ambush and scratches on trees. And then two local Bodo men reported kidnap by insurgents. Tracking efforts were erratic, and seeing a clouded leopard near their village. eventually had to be suspended altogether. The team set camera traps and tried baiting with a liberal spray of Calvin Klein aftershave, in case the perfume has the same effect on clouded leopards as it does on jaguars the camera traps snapped leopards, in South America. The traps snapped leopards, elephants elephants and poachers, but no clouded and, sadly, poachers, but no clouded leopards. Then, out of nowhere, came the first reliable sighting – a Bhutanese leopards. Then came a reliable sighting. forest official saw a cat wearing a white radio-collar on the Indo-Bhutan border. Runaa, at least, had made it. In June 2011, nearly 13 months after Runaa and Khota’s There was more good news to come. While the WTI release, WTI staff finally judged it safe enough to renew team was tracking Runaa and Khota, another pair of the search for evidence that the twins had survived their orphaned cubs – females this time – were seized by the first year in the wild. Sandesh joined the quest. forest department and delivered to Kokrajhar veterinary The odds were stacked against the team. “It was a bit centre. As you read this, Koina and Moyna are about to be like hunting ghosts,” says Sandesh. Khota’s radio-collar fitted with radio-collars ready for release into the forest. had failed already, and the battery in Runaa’s was by Meanwhile, the world still awaits the first photographs now very feeble. (Even when functioning properly, the of wild clouded leopards. “It’s my Holy Grail,” laughs devices’ signals were detectable only 450m away. In dense Sandesh. Though the enigmatic feline is a tricky subject, forest where travel is difficult and visibility poor, that’s one day, just maybe, he’ll pull the cat out of the bag.

70 BBC Wildlife August 2012