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EC 871 • REVISED AUGUST 2005 $3.00 VEGETABLE GARDENING IN OREGON CONTENTS

CHOOSE A SITE ...... 1

PREPARE THE SOIL ...... 1

PLANT ON RECOMMENDED DATES ...... 3

MULCHES AND FLOATING ROW COVERS ...... 3

PLANTING DATES, QUANTITY TO , AND SPACING FOR GARDEN VEGETABLES ...... 4

GIVE YOUR GARDEN CONSISTENT CARE ...... 6

CONTROL INSECTS AND DISEASES ...... 6

DOUBLE AND ROTATION ...... 6

BUY SEEDS AND CAREFULLY ...... 7

PRODUCTION POINTERS ...... 8

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES ...... 10

FOR MORE INFORMATION Visit the Oregon State University Extension Service website (extension.oregonstate.edu) to obtain these and other gardening publications: Improving Garden Soils with Organic Matter, EC 1561 Fertilizing Your Garden: Vegetables, , and Ornamentals, EC 1503 A List of Analytical Laboratories Serving Oregon, EM 8677 Soil Sampling for Home Gardens and Small Acreages, EC 628

Prepared by J.R. Baggett, professor emeritus of horticulture; Deborah Kean, research associate in horticulture; Dan Sullivan, Extension soil scientist; Alex Stone, Extension vegetable crops specialist; and Jim Myers, professor of vegetable breeding. VEGETABLE GARDENING IN OREGON J.R. Baggett, A. Stone, J. Myers, D. Sullivan, and D. Kean

HOOSE A SITE C supplies about 3 lb of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 Adjust your garden plan to the amount of land square feet, is suffi cient for vegetable crops. available and the needs of your family. Choose a Fertilizer labels indicate the percentages of location that is level or only slightly sloped and nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potash (K) in that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun each the material. For example, a fertilizer labeled day. The site should be well drained. Avoid areas 20-20-10 contains 20 percent nitrogen, 20 percent close to large trees or shrubs that will compete phosphate, and 10 percent potash. Thus, every with your vegetables for water. For ease of main- 10 lb of this fertilizer contains approximately 2 lb tenance, there should be a water source nearby. of nitrogen, 2 lb of phosphate, and 1 lb of potash. Figure 1 (page 2) shows one possible layout for If you have applied a balanced fertilizer at rec- a vegetable garden. ommended rates for several years, enough P and K may already be present in the soil, because they are less mobile than N. Nitrogen can leach out of PREPARE THE SOIL the soil with excessive or rainfall. Con- Start by assessing soil tilth. Good tilth means sider soil testing every 3 to 5 years to see whether a soil is easy to dig in, accepts and stores water you really need to supply any nutrient other than readily, has good , and makes a good N. (See the publications listed under “For more seed bed. To maintain or improve soil tilth, add information” to learn more about soil testing.) fresh or composted organic matter each year. See Nitrogen is used by vegetables most effi ciently Improving Garden Soils with Organic Matter, when it is applied just prior to rapid vegetative EC 1561, to learn about choosing and using growth. For established vegetable gardens that composts, manures, and other organic materials to do not require annual P and K addition, consider improve your garden soil. Winter cover crops also applying some of the nitrogen 3 to 6 weeks after can improve soil tilth. seeding or transplanting, just prior to rapid veg- To maintain good soil tilth, consider growing etative growth. Vegetables most likely to benefi t vegetables in raised beds and keeping foot traffi c from a split application of N include peppers, out of the beds. Raised beds often improve drain- , and . Use a liquid or solid fertil- age, allow soil to warm rapidly in the spring, and izer with a high ratio of N (for example, 3-1-1, reduce problems with soil-borne diseases. 30-10-10, or 21-0-0). Apply at a rate of approxi- In most cases, an annual application of a bal- mately 2 lb N per 1,000 square feet. Place the anced fertilizer (such as 20-20-10), at a rate that fertilizer on the soil surface beside the row, just before watering. Avoid broadcasting fertilizer into

1 10' 10' 10' 4' ------ ------onions ------onions ------ ------carrots ------carrots ------5' ------beets ------* ------lettuce* ------N ------greens* ------greens* ------* ------

------ ------greens* ------beans* ------ ------* ------radishes* ------5' ------rutabaga ------ ------ ------

10' tomatoes pole beans

peppers slicing 10'

Figure 1. —This garden plan features 12- and 24-inch-wide 10' melons or squash walkways of scrap wood or sawdust, short rows for ease of hoeing from ends, peren- nial vegetables planted on the long sides for the least interference with garden soil preparation, and many short rows 20' potatoes corn corn to allow succes- sive plantings for season-long harvesting.

*These vegetables are particularly

rhubarb suitable for suc- cessive plantings. 2 the whorls of the corn leaves, as it may damage emerging leaves. MULCHES AND FLOATING ROW COVERS Repeated annual applications of manures Black, red, green, or silver plastic; various or composts can reduce or eliminate the need organic mulches; and row covers can improve for fertilizer. For more detailed information on , yield, and quality of heat-loving fertilizing, see Fertilizing Your Garden: - crops such as melons, cucumbers, peppers, toma- bles, Fruits, and Ornamentals, EC 1503. toes, sweet corn, and pole beans. Soil pH is a measure of acidity. The ideal soil Plastic mulches warm the soil, conserve mois- pH for most vegetable crops is 6.0 to 7.5. Most ture, eliminate , and keep fruits and vegeta- soils in western Oregon are naturally more acidic bles from rotting by keeping them clean and away than this, meaning the pH is lower. will from the soil. Punching small holes in the plastic raise soil pH and make it more suitable for veg- prevents water from accumulating on top of it. etable crops. Organic mulches are another option. You can Lime is slow-acting and doesnʼt move well in apply 1 to 2 inches of straw, hay, leaves, or mint the soil. Apply lime in fall or spring and till it into the soil. For new vegetable gardens in western Oregon, apply 10 lb of agricultural-grade lime per 100 square feet. East of the Cascades, many soils are naturally alkaline and do not benefi t from lime application. A soil test by an agricultural testing laboratory can help you determine whether lime, phosphorus, potassium, or other nutrients are needed. For more information, see A List of Analytical Laboratories Serving Oregon, EM 8677, and Soil Sampling for Home Gardens and Small Acreages, EC 628.

PLANT ON RECOMMENDED DATES GROWING REGIONS The map on this page shows the four Oregon growing regions. Table 1 (pages 4–5) shows Oregon is divided into four growing regions. approximate planting dates for each region. Identifying your region will help you choose veg- etable varieties and planting dates suitable to the Adjust planting dates based on your particular growing conditions in your area as shown in Table 1 locality and seasonal weather pattern. (pages 4–5). Follow planting recommendations on the seed packet. Water lightly and frequently (as often as Region 1, Oregon coast: Cool but long season of once or twice daily for small-seeded vegetables 190 to 250 days. such as onions, celery, carrots, spinach, , and Region 2, Western valleys: 150- to 250-day season; ) until seedlings are well established. warm days, cool nights; length of season may vary Many freshly tilled and planted soils in west- considerably from year to year. ern Oregon form a crust after overhead irrigation Region 3, High elevations: Short growing season of or rain. This crust can prevent small seeds from 90 to 120 days; frost can occur during any month. emerging. Covering seed furrows with a light Region 4, Columbia and Snake river valleys 120- to potting mix instead of soil can prevent crusting. 200-day season; hot days, warm nights; length of sea- Floating row covers (see column at right) placed son fairly well defi ned. over the seed row also help prevent crusting.

3 in the row c rows b . VEGETABLES

plateaus of Hermiston, Amount Distance a GARDEN

FOR

SPACING

AND , PLANT

TO

QUANTITY Region , DATES

PLANTING ower 6 weeks Jan. & June April–July 15 April–May April & July 10–15 plants 24" 24" 1.— fl ABLE For many of the crops, amount to plant should be divided into several plantings, 1 or 2 weeks apart. Medford-area planting dates may be 7–10 days earlier and extend later than indicated for western valleys. Use narrower spacings for small gardens. Vegetable region your for eastern Oregon Ontario central and family of 4 for Pendleton, to plant between Distance apart T Start plants indoors this l–Coast, long before Astoria to planting date Brookings 2–Western valleys, Portland to mountains, and 3–High elevations, valleys, 4–Columbia and Snake Roseburg a b c 20–30' long long Celery 20–30' Chard Chinese Chives 4 weeks Corn (sweet) 9 weeks not suitable Cucumbers (slicing) July–Aug. not suitable 4 weeks March–June Cucumbers (pickling) Feb.–May 4 weeks 6 weeks April–May Dill March–July April–June August April–July April–May April–June Endive May May–June May–June March–June April–June March–May May–June June–August May–June 9 weeks not suitable April–July May–June Feb.–May 20–30' of row April 15–June August 6 weeks April 15–June not suitable May–June Feb.–March 3–4 plants May 4 rows, 24" 10–15' of row March–July 6 plants April 15–June April–Aug. 15 1 clump May 24" 24" 25' of row April–July 36" 5" May 36" not suitable 12" 6–12" 36" 12" August 12" 6–12" May May 10–15' of row 12" 6–12" 12" 4–6 plants May 24" 12" 25' of row 24" 24" 6–9" 12–24" pole pole 12–24" 12–24" Artichokes (globe) Crown Asparagus Beans (lima) April–June May–June pieces Aug.–Oct. Beans (snap) not suitable Aug.–Nov. 1 year Beets not suitable not suitable not suitable Broccoli March–April Brussels sprouts May–June May–June Feb.–March Cabbage not suitable 6 weeks May–June May–July Feb.–March not suitable Cantaloupes 3–4 plants 6 weeks Carrots March–June May–June April 15–June Feb.–March April–June Cauli 15–25' of row 48–60" 6 weeks March–June May–June 30–40 plants 4 weeks May–July April 15–June July–Sept. 12–24" April–June 15–25' of row March–Aug. Jan.–April 48–60" not suitable not suitable 36" April–June 4–6" bush 12–24" April–June March–July April–June Jan.–June 10–15' of row 2–6" bush April–July May March–July 15 April–June April–July 12" 15–20' of row April–June 10–20' of row 12" not suitable April–July March–July 24" 24" 10–15 plants 20–30' of row 3" May 24" 24" 12–24" 12" 5–10 hills 24" 2" 48" 36"

4 in the row c rows b ). CONTINUED ( VEGETABLES

plateaus of Hermiston, Amount Distance a GARDEN

FOR

SPACING

AND , PLANT

TO

QUANTITY Region , DATES

PLANTING 1.— ABLE For many of the crops, amount to plant should be divided into several plantings, 1 or 2 weeks apart. Medford-area planting dates may be 7–10 days earlier and extend later than indicated for western valleys. Use narrower spacings for small gardens. Vegetable region your for eastern Oregon Ontario central and family of 4 for Pendleton, to plant between Distance apart T Start plants indoors this l–Coast, long before Astoria to planting date Brookings 2–Western valleys, Portland to mountains, and 3–High elevations, valleys, 4–Columbia and Snake Roseburg a b c vine Kohlrabi Lettuce, head not suitable Lettuce, leaf not suitable not suitable Sept.–Oct. 36" Onions 5 weeks July–Aug. May–July Parsley not suitable 5 weeks Sept.–Feb. April–Aug. 15 Feb.–July Feb.–April Peas May–July Aug.–Sept. Feb.–Aug. March–May April–July May 8 weeks 10 weeks Peppers supported April–Aug. May–July 10 weeks Nov.–Feb. Potatoes (sweet) not suitable April–June April–Aug. not suitable Jan.–May not suitable Potatoes (white, etc.) April–Aug. 10–20' of row Dec.–May May–June Aug. April to 6 weeks not suitable May–July not suitable Feb.–May Jan.–April Feb.–April Mar.–May 10 weeks Mar.–June April–May Jan.–Aug. Feb.–April 12" Rhubarb not suitable 20–30' of row 10–15' not suitable 10–15' of row April–June if 10' of row Rutabagas May–June 10–15' of row not suitable Spinach May–July Feb.–May 4 weeks May 24" May–June May 12" Squash (summer) not suitable not suitable 12" 3" 12" May Feb.–April Crown piece 12" Squash (winter) April–June not suitable 4 weeks Feb.–May Tomatoes May Dec.–Jan. All year 30–40' of row Mar.–June May–June 24" not suitable June–July 4 weeks 10–20' of row 12" Mar.–June Mar.–April 50–100' of row Turnips 1–2 plants May March–April 4–5" 5" 6" March–Sept. Aug.–Feb. 12" May May–June 10–15' of row June or July 30–40' of row 24" 24" 8 weeks April & Sept. May April–July May 50–100' of row 24" bush April April–May 12" 12" April & July May–June 4 weeks not suitable May–June May 3" 24" Mar.–Sept. 18" Aug. Jan. & 12" 2" Mar.–July Sept.–Jan. not suitable Feb.–March May–June May June 8" 4' of row 10–15' of row 3" Apr.–Sept. 5–10 plants May 10–20' of row 2–3 plants April 15–June 12" May April–May 12" April 15–June 2–4 plants 12" 24" 12" May 48" 1–3 plants Aug. Feb. & May not suitable 36" 10–15' of row 12–18" 3" 1 inch April 15–May 3" 72" 36" 12" 2–4 plants May May 24" 48" 60" 3" 6 plants 10–15 plants 36", closer 36" 60" 24" 48"

5 hay. These mulches conserve soil moisture and amount of water in them. Apply the water slowly control insects, and they will improve soil struc- so as not to cause surface runoff and soil erosion. ture and nutrient content over time. During dry weather, water about every 7 days. Organic mulches do not warm the soil. For An alternative to sprinklers is soaker hoses heat-loving plants such as peppers and eggplants, or drip systems. These systems let you water apply them only after soil temperatures have just your crops without promoting growth risen. Organic mulches can provide habitat for between the rows. They also help prevent leaf slugs, so monitor mulched areas during the rainy diseases. When used carefully, low-pressure season. systems use less water than sprinklers. Because Row covers speed early growth and protect the water is restricted to a narrow band beside plants from insects and spring frosts. Covers of the row, you might need to modify fertilization polyethylene, polyester, and polypropylene are practices and frequency of watering. available from seed companies and garden supply Finally, pay attention to the require- stores and catalogs. Usually, you can place these ments of your crops. See Table 1, or check the covers directly on the crop. Lay them loosely to backs of seed packets. Each plant needs enough allow for several weeks of plant growth. Hold space to develop suffi cient leaf area to support top them in place by putting weights, such as rocks or and root growth. Excessive crowding can lead to pieces of lumber, along the edges. For plants with poor-quality plants. In the case of corn, crowded growing points at the top of the plant, such as plants produce few ears. peppers, hoops or other supports may be neces- sary to prevent damage to the growing point. Keep row covers on the crop for 4 to 6 weeks, CONTROL INSECTS AND DISEASES or until bloom. Melons, squash, and cucumbers are pollinated by bees, so covers must be removed You must control insects, slugs, symphylans, from these plants during bloom. and diseases in order to obtain good plant growth. Consult appropriate Extension publications for recommendations on controlling these garden pests. GIVE YOUR GARDEN Always identify and monitor problems before CONSISTENT CARE acting, and consider the least toxic approach Cultivate the soil only enough to eliminate fi rst. When using chemicals for insect or disease weeds. In the fi rst 30 days after planting, weed control, follow recommendations on the labels. thoroughly. Most vegetable seedlings compete Store all chemicals safely, away from children. poorly against weeds. Transplanted Rinse empty containers and dispose of vegetables are more competi- them in the manner recommended. tive, but not all vegetables make good transplants. Incorrect watering DOUBLE CROPS AND CROP is the most frequent ROTATION cause of problems in the garden. Apply 1 to Early vegetables such as spin- 1.5 inches of water per ach, radishes, leaf lettuce, and irrigation. To check the peas can be followed by addi- amount of water applied, tional plantings of the same or place several cans in your other vegetables. If your space garden and check the is very limited, you might try

6 companion cropping of early and late varieties. Companion cropping means planting two BUY SEEDS AND vegetables (such as radishes and toma- PLANTS CAREFULLY toes) at the same time in the same Consult the list of space. Plan carefully so that recommended variet- the larger, more vigorous crop ies (pages 10–14) and does not inhibit growth of the buy accordingly. For smaller crop. Experiment with long-season crops such combinations and planting dates as tomatoes, peppers, to fi nd out what works in your and eggplants, or for early garden. crops of cabbage, broccoli, It is a good idea to rotate your caulifl ower, and lettuce, crops every year, as much as pos- buy plants or start your own sible given your space limitations. transplants. can be an effective way to control If recommended varieties are not available soil-borne plant diseases if the alternate crop is locally, you can purchase seed from a seed com- not susceptible to the disease. In general, avoid pany. Some seed companies are listed below.* planting crops from the same family (for example, Probably no single source can provide all of the tomatoes and peppers or broccoli and cabbage) in varieties listed. the same place 2 years in a row (see Table 2). • W. Atlee Burpee Co., 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974 • Harris Seeds, 355 Paul Road, Rochester, TABLE 2.—PLANT FAMILIES FOR CROP ROTATIONS. NY14624-0966 Family Vegetables • Johnnyʼs Selected Seeds, 955 Benton Avenue, Apiaceae , celery, fennel, Winslow, ME 04901-2601 • Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 Old Salem Brassicaceae Broccoli, , Road NE, Albany, OR 97321 cabbage, caulifl ower, kale, • Parkʼs Seed Co., 1 Parkton Avenue, Green- horseradish, kohlrabi, mus- wood, SC 29647 tard, radish, rutabaga, • Seeds of Change, PO Box 15700, Santa Fe, Chenopodiaceae Beet, spinach, Swiss chard NM 87592-1500 Cucurbitaceae , , melon, • Stokes Seeds, PO Box 548, Buffalo, NY 14240 , squash, water- • Territorial Seed Co., PO Box 158, Cottage melon, zucchini Grove, OR 97424-0061 Fabaceae Lima , , snap bean, Many other small seed companies exist. If you have trouble fi nding a variety, you might try Liliaceae Asparagus, garlic, leek, searching the Internet. Heirloom and hard-to-fi nd , nonhybrid varieties can be found in the Vegetable Solanaceae Eggplant, pepper, , Seed Inventory, available from Seed Savers Exchange (www.seedsavers.org).

*Mention of these companies does not mean that the Oregon State University Extension Service either endorses these companies or intends to discriminate against companies not mentioned.

7 PRODUCTION POINTERS

Many excellent books and periodicals on veg- ▼ CABBAGE etable gardening are available from public librar- ies and garden stores. Articles in newspapers and Does best in cool, uniformly moist conditions. magazines can help you throughout the growing Set out plants of early-maturing varieties as soon season. Many catalogs also contain as spring conditions permit. Plant later-maturing production information. Other publications on varieties in late May or June for heading in the gardening, pest control, vegetable storage, and fall. As with broccoli, you might need to control variety selection are available from your county fl ea beetles and cabbage maggots. offi ce of the OSU Extension Service or on the Extension website (extension.oregonstate.edu). ▼ CARROTS For early carrots, plant as soon as spring condi- ▼ ARTICHOKES (GLOBE) tions permit. Grow carrots in raised beds to get Need good drainage and smoother, longer roots. Use shorter varieties protection from extreme (Danvers, Nantes, Chantenay) if soils are heavy. winter temperatures. Harvest when the bud is ▼ CORN, SWEET still completely closed. Make successive plantings of one variety or plant Varieties grown from seed different varieties that vary in season of maturity. may give variable results, but Several short rows in a rectangle are better for theyʼre worth trying. pollination than a few long rows.

▼ ASPARAGUS ▼ CORN, SUPERSWEET Should have good drainage. Plant crowns 5 to These varieties need to be planted exclusively or 6 inches deep; cover with only 2 to 3 inches separated from normal sweet varieties by about of soil the fi rst year. This perennial will grow 2 weeks in planting date to minimize cross-pol- year after year, so plant in an area that does not lination, which can drastically reduce eating qual- get disturbed by tillage. Do not harvest the fi rst ity. Do not plant too early. Supersweet types will 2 -years to allow plants to become established. not germinate in cold, wet soils.

▼ BEANS ▼ CUCUMBERS Use bush varieties for quick production and Prefer warm, dry conditions; resist the temptation pole types for a longer season. With both types, to plant too early. Keep picked to prolong consistent harvest of mature pods will prolong the harvest. bearing season. Try the fl at-podded Italian types for a fl avor treat. ▼ EGGPLANTS Require heat and a long ▼ BROCCOLI growing season. Use Although broccoli generally does not do well in transplants and provide warm weather, careful selection of varieties may early-season warmth with permit season-long crops in most areas. Floating a fl oating row cover. Plas- row covers can protect plants from fl ea beetles tic mulches can help by and cabbage maggots. Wash off aphids with a raising soil temperature. forceful spray of water.

8 ▼ HERBS ▼ PEAS Tarragon, chives, and mint are propagated by Plant early and make successive seedings or use cuttings or crown divisions; most other common varieties with different seasons of maturity. In herbs can be grown from seed. Herbs do best in regions 1 and 2, use varieties resistant to enation a sunny location. They require little care, water, virus if planting in April or May. (See the recom- or fertilizer. Most commonly grown are sweet mended varieties, page 13.) Trellising makes it basil, borage, chives, caraway, dill, fennel, mint, easier to pick thoroughly, which prolongs the oregano, parsley, sage, rosemary, summer and bearing season. Chinese type or snow peas have winter savory, and thyme. Some herbs are peren- a fl at, edible pod. Snap peas have a fl eshy, round, nials and should be planted in an area that is not edible pod. disturbed by annual tillage. ▼ PEPPERS ▼ KOHLRABI Heat lovers, best A good substitute for turnip. Harvesting at grown from maturity is critical, because fi ber develops in transplants. older plants. Many types and colors are ▼ LETTUCE available. Sup- Mainly a cool-season crop. Choose heat-resistant ply plenty of varieties for later plantings. Plant short rows at nitrogen early to 14-day intervals to prevent waste and prolong the promote vigor- season. For earliest lettuce, set out plants at the ous growth before same time as early cabbage. Many beautiful and fruit set. Plastic mulch increases soil temperature. unusual types and varieties are available. ▼ POTATOES ▼ MELONS Cut pieces so there are at least three eyes per Many specialty melons are available. Use fl oating piece. Plant early potatoes from mid-April to row covers and plastic mulch to extend the season June. Plant 5 to 6 inches deep for level cultivation and increase success. Remove covers when plants and 4 inches deep if rows are to be hilled. Hill bloom so bees can pollinate fl owers. up soil, straw, or mulch around plants to prevent greening of shallow tubers. Water deeply. Soaker ▼ ONIONS hoses are not recommended for potatoes. Prefer light, fertile, well-drained soils. Can be ▼ RADISHES planted from seeds, sets, or transplants. Starting with seed allows for greater choice Make successive plantings of the quantity you of varieties. Plant as early as can use. Use fl oating row covers to protect plants possible in spring to from fl ea beetles and cabbage maggots. Radishes allow maximum have shallow roots and need plenty of water to top growth before keep roots from getting pithy. bulbing begins. Use long-day or day- ▼ SPINACH neutral varieties in A cool-season crop very prone to bolting as Oregon. days lengthen and temperatures rise. Plant spring spinach as early as possible for early summer

9 harvest. Plant again from late July through Sep- seed or transplants. Winter varieties can be stored tember for fall harvest. Beet greens, New Zealand for long periods. Squash is bee pollinated, so if spinach, and chard are substitutes for spinach you use row covers be sure to remove them when that are less heat sensitive and therefore easier to the fi rst blossoms appear. grow. ▼ TOMATOES ▼ SQUASH Early varieties with compact growth are best A warm-season suited to most Oregon areas. Set out well-grown crop. Very rewarding plants after the last frost. Watch for fl ea beetle and easy to grow with damage. Grow indeterminate varieties in cages or a wide range of colors, on a trellis; determinate varieties do not require types, and fl avors avail- support. Water regularly to help prevent blossom- able. Can be grown from end rot.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES

The following list includes some of the variet- Lima, bush, large-seeded: Fordhook 242 (or any ies that have shown promise in Oregon. These Fordhook) varieties are recommended for all areas of Oregon Lima, bush, small-seeded: Thorogreen, Baby except as noted. Fordhook, Jackson Wonder Many of these varieties are available on seed Dry: Pinto, Red Kidney, White Kidney (Cannel- racks in garden stores. You may have to order lini), Cranberry some of the newer ones from one of the seed Edible or edamame: Envy, Early companies listed on page 7. Hakucho, Butterbean, Sayamusume, Misono Green ■ ARTICHOKES (NOT REGIONS 3,4) Green Globe, Imperial Star ■ BEETS Red, globe shape: Ruby Queen, Red Ace, Warrior, ■ ASPARAGUS Kestrel, Early Wonder, Pacemaker III, Detroit Mary Washington, Jersey Knight, Jersey Giant, Dark Red UC 157, Purple Passion Cylindrical: Cylindra, Forono Golden: Golden ■ BEANS Novelty, white: Albina Verduna Greens: Early Wonder Tall Top, Bullʼs Blood, Green bush: Tendercrop, Venture, Slenderette, Big Top Oregon 91G, Oregon Trail, Provider, Jade, Oregon 54 ■ BROCCOLI Flat Italian: Roma II French fi let: Nickel, Grenoble Green, heading: Premium Crop, Packman, Green pole: Blue Lake, Kentucky Wonder, Arcadia, Early Dividend, Regal, Windsor, Romano, Cascade Giant, Kentucky Blue, Emerald Pride Oregon Giant Purple: Rosalind Wax bush: Goldenrod, Goldrush, Indy Gold, Romanesco: Romanesco, Minaret Slenderwax

10 ■ BRUSSELS SPROUTS ■ CELERY Jade Cross “E”, Oliver, Tasty Nuggets, Prince Utah 52-70R, Ventura Marvel, Trafalgar ■ COLLARDS ■ CABBAGE Vates, Champion, Flash Early: Dynamo, Parel, Primax, Arrowhead, Capricorn, Farao, Tendersweet ■ CORN Main season: Golden Acre, Bravo, Charmant Note: Quality of all varieties may be dramati- Late fall, winter: Danish Ballhead, Storage cally altered under certain pollination conditions. Hybrid #4, Blue Thunder Supersweets must be isolated from other types. Red: Ruby Perfection, Regal Red, Red Acre Savoy: Melissa, Savoy Express, Savoy Ace, ■ CORN, YELLOW KERNELS Kilosa Standard sweet, early: Sundance, Early Sunglow, ■ Seneca Horizon Standard sweet, main season: Jubilee (also called Michihili, Monument, China Express, China Golden Jubilee) Flash Supersweet, early: Butterfruit Pak choi: Mei Qing Choy, Joi Choi Supersweet, main season: Supersweet Jubilee, ACX 1021Y ■ CARROTS Sugary enhanced, very early: Buns Standard: Red Cored Chantenay, Royal Sugary enhanced, early: Precocious, Kandy Chantenay, Scarlet Nantes, Mokum, Bolero, Kwik, Mystique Apache, Danvers, Ithaca, Sugarsnax 54, Sugary enhanced, main season: Incredible, Kandy Nelson, Napa, Kuroda, Nantindo, Caropak, King, Kandy Korn, Legend, Bodacious Nevis, Sweetness II, Napoli Triple sweet types (sh2su hybrids): Sugar Ace Baby carrots: Minicore, Babette, Parmex, Thumbelina ■ CORN, WHITE KERNELS Note: Must be isolated from yellow or bicolor ■ types to get all white kernels. White: Snowball “Y” Improved, Snow Crown, Supersweet, early: White Satin Candid Charm, White Rock, Apex, Callisto, Supersweet, main season: How Sweet It Is, Silver Imperial 10-6, Amazing, White Magic, Concert Lining, Xtratender 378A Purple: Violet Queen, Graffi ti Sugary enhanced, main season: Silverado, Green: Alverda Argent, Frosty, Sugar Snow II, Whiteout

■ CHARD ■ CORN, BICOLOR KERNELS Fordhook Giant, Rhubarb, Bright Lights, Bright Supersweet, early: Xtratender Yellow, Silverado 272A Supersweet, main sea- ■ CHICORY son: Honey and Pearl, Green, tall, slender heads: Crystal Hat Phenomenal, Candy Red, also known as radicchio, tall, slender heads: Corner Chiogga Red Preco, Milan, Treviso Red Preco Sugary enhanced, Nonheading, asparagus type: Catalogna early: Trinity, Fleet, Native Gem

11 Sugary enhanced, main season: Temptation, Red leaf: Prizehead, Red Brocade, Fantasia, Delectable, Double Gem Sails, Redina, New Red

Triple sweet types (sh2su hybrids): Sweet Rhythm, Fire Serendipity, Sweet Chorus, Sweet Symphony Green leaf: Bowl, Grand CORN, ORNAMENTAL Rapids, Slobolt, Note: Must be isolated from other corn. Green Vision Wampum, Chinook Oak leaf: Oaky Red Splash ■ CUCUMBERS Romaine: Paris Island, Valmaine, Green Towers, Outred- Pickling: SMR 58, Pioneer, Bush Pickle, County geous, Devils Tongue, Little Gem, Freckles Fair Bibb: Summer Bibb, Ovation, Optima, Slicing: Burpee Hybrid, Marketmore 86 & 97, Buttercrunch Poinsett, Raider, Dasher II, Slicemaster, Tasty Butterhead: Esmeralda, Marvel of Four Seasons Green, Greensleeves, Orient Express, Suyo Batavian: Nevada, Sierra Cross, Amira, Genuine, Slicemore, Ultrapak Novelty: Armenian, ■ MELONS (NOT REGIONS 1,3) ■ EGGPLANTS (NOT REGIONS 1,3) Cantaloupe/muskmelon: Ambrosia, Harper Hybrid, Gold Star, Classic, Pulsar, Super- Purple, oval: Dusky, Epic, Black Bell, Calliope, star, Earlisweet, Eclipse, Primo, Earliqueen, Burpee Hybrid, Millionaire Saticoy, Fastbreak Purple, small, round: Bambino Honeydew: Earlidew, Honey , Morning White: Cloud Nine Ice, Honey I Dew Elongated: Megal, Bride, Orient Express Galia: Gallicum, Galia, Passport, Arava Crenshaw: Early Hybrid Crenshaw ■ ENDIVE Canary: Sugarnut Green Curled, Batavian, Salad King, Neos ■ MUSTARD GREENS ■ KALE Fordhook Fancy, Green Wave Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch, Improved Vates, Long-standing: Osaka Purple, Giant Red Siberian, Winterbor, Winter Red, Nero di Toscana, Blue Ridge ■ ONIONS Yellow: Copra, Prince, First Edition, Millennium, ■ KOHLRABI Frontier, New York Early, Candy Early White Vienna, Early Purple Vienna, Kongo, Red: Redwing, Mars Kolibri, Eder White: White Sweet Spanish, Blanco Duro, Superstar ■ LEEKS Overwintering: Buffalo, Walla Walla Sweet Green bunching: Ishikura, Tokyo Long White, American Flag, King Richard, Kilima, Rikor He-shi-ko ■ LETTUCE ■ PARSLEY Heading, main season: Summertime, Ithaca Triple Moss Curled, Banquet, Dark Green Italian Heading, fall crop: Salinas Plain

12 ■ PARSNIPS ■ POTATOES Harris Model, All America, Hollow Crown, Red: Red Pontiac, Norland, Red La Soda, Gladiator, Andover, Cobham Improved Cranberry Red White: Norgold Russet, Russet Burbank, Superior ■ PEAS Yellow: Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold, Bintje, Desiree Shelling: Novella II, Oregon Trail, Oregon Purple: All Blue Pioneer, Green Arrow, Maxigolt Oriental edible pod: Oregon Sugar Pod II, ■ PUMPKINS Oregon Giant Large: Jack OʼLantern, , bush: Sugar Daddy, Super Snappy, Howden, Autumn Gold, Cascadia, Sugar Sprint Lumina (white), Magic Snap pea, pole: Sugar Snap or Super Sugar Snap Lantern, Rouge Vif (virus-susceptible; plant early) dʼEtamps Cinderella: Rock Star, ■ PEPPERS Orange Smoothie Sweet bell, green to red: Parks Early Thickset, Small: Small Sugar Camelot, ʼN Sassy, Ace, Bellboy, Jupiter, (Small Sugar ) Yankee Bell, North Star, Parks Whopper Compact vines: Improved, Vidi, Elisa, Lady Bell, King Arthur, Spookie, Tom Fox, Oz Lantern, Conquest, Tequila, Blushing Beauty Sweet bell, green to yellow: Golden Bell, Golden Novelty and exhibition: , Dillʼs Summer, Labrador Atlantic Giant, Prizewinner Sweet bell, green to orange: Ariane, Corona Hulless seeded: Baby Bear, Jack, Trickster, Sweet bell, green to purple: Lilac Bell, Purple Kakai Beauty Mini ornamental: Jack Be Little, Wee-Be-Little, Sweet bell, green to lavender to red: Islander Lil Pump-ke-mon Sweet bell, ivory to red: Snow White Specialty sweet: Sweet , Banana Supreme, ■ RADISHES Bananarama, Gypsy, Biscayne, Flamingo, Red Red: Fuego, Comet, French Breakfast, Cherry Bullʼs Horn, Pizza, Lipstick, Apple, Paprika Belle, Champion Supreme, The Godfather, Giant Marconi White: Burpee White, White Icicle Ethnic: Sweet Round of Hungary, Euro Jumbo Large Japanese: Sakurajima Mammoth Sweet Cherry Cayenne: Super Cayenne II, Hero, Andy, Cayenne ■ RADICCHIO Long Slim See Chicory Jalapeño: Tam Jalapeño, Early Jalapeño, Conchos, Mitla ■ RHUBARB Specialty hot: Cherry Bomb, Serrano, Anaheim TMR 23, Boldog Hungarian Spice, Bell, Crimson Red, Cherry Red, Valentine, Victoria Caribbean Red Habanero, Hot Paper Lanten Novelty, ornamental: Marbles, Riot, Ivory, ■ RUTABAGAS Varengata, Pretty in Purple American Purple Top, Laurentian

13 ■ SPINACH ■ TOMATOES Spring-planted for early summer harvest, smooth Very early: Oregon Eleven leaf: Bloomsdale Long Standing, Melody, Early: Early Girl, Oregon Olympia, Skookum, Nordic IV, Springer Spring, Santiam, Oregon Spring-planted, savoy: Spinner, Correnta, Pride, Oregon Star, Siletz, Unipack 151 Legend Late-summer-planted for fall harvest, smooth Midseason: Willamette, leaf: Oriental Giant, Rushmore Pik Red, Celeb- Late-summer-planted, savoy: Jive rity, Sunleaper, Mountain Spring, ■ SQUASH, SUMMER Medford, First Yellow: Early Prolifi c Straightneck, Multi- Lady II, Big Beef pik, Supersett, Fancycrook, Sunray, Yellow Late: Big Boy, Better Boy, Fantastic, Crookneck, Goldbar Bush Big Boy, BHN 444 Green zucchini: Ambassador, Seneca, Elite, Cherry: Oregon Cherry, Gold Nugget, Sweet Tigress, Aristocrat, Raven Million, Cherry Grande, Sun Gold, Early Yellow zucchini: Gold Rush Cherry, Thai Pink, Juliet, Sunsugar, Large Scallop: Sunburst German Cherry, Sweet Baby Girl Other: Tromboncino (C. moschata) Yellow: Golden Boy, Jubilee Paste: Oroma, Saucy, Halley 3155, Viva Italia, ■ SQUASH, WINTER (NOT REGION I) Super Marzano, Macero II, Health Kick Heirloom: Brandywine (from Johnnyʼs) Miscellaneous: Golden Delicious, Banana, , Blue Hubbard, Sweet Meat ■ TURNIPS Buttercup/: Sweet Mama, Ambercup, Buttercup Burgess Strain, Gold Nugget, Black Root: Purple Top White Globe, Royal Crown, Forest, Delica Tokyo Cross Delicata: Sugar Loaf, Honey Boat Greens: Shogoin Acorn: Bush Table Queen, Mesa Queen, Table Ace, Taybelle, Table Gold (orange), Cream of ■ WATERMELONS (NOT REGIONS 1,3) the Crop (white) Red-fl eshed: Crimson Sweet, Charleston Gray, Butternut: Early Butternut, Nicklowʼs Delight, Garden Baby, Sweet Favorite, Carmen, Sweet Ultra Diane Yellow-fl eshed: Yellow Doll, Sunshine, Yellow ■ SWEET POTATOES (NOT REGIONS 1,2,3) Baby Jewell, Centennial Red seedless: Millennium, Summer Sweet 3521Y, Triple Star, Summer Sweet 5544 Yellow seedless: Buttercup Ice box: Sugar Baby, Tiger Baby

© 2005 Oregon State University

This publication was produced and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Extension work is a cooperative program of Oregon State University, the U.S. Department of , and Oregon counties. Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials—without regard to race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, national origin, age, marital status, disability, and disabled veteran or Vietnam-era veteran status—as required by Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973. Oregon State University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer. Revised December 1991. Revised August 2005.