The Sheep Creek Hikes

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500 792 Legend ! point of interest index contour (100 m) ! spot height intermediate contour (20 m) hiking route 600 Halfway to Heaven 678 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 800 Inspiration Point Halfway to Heaven 200 ! ! ! ! ! ! Food Cache ! ! ! ! ! ! Sheep Slot 600 700 700! ! ! ! ! ! Sheep Creek ! ! ! ! ! ! Wolf Tors

! ! ! ! ! ! 700 Ridge Walk *note: Pale route symbol indicates alternate route. 800 1.9

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500 900 800 Dragon’s Tor 700 0.4 800 0.9 Trapper's

LOVE AT 700 0.4 Campsite 0.6

2.2 600 Lunch Rock Café FIRST SIGHT! 2.3 600 598 Gordon’s 600 Sheep Creek 1.1 Food Cache

1 400 2.2 600 S heep 700 1.4

700 1.1 Sheep Creek Base Camp 636 Cre 0.3 0.1 4.6 ek 2.4 600 r Inspiration e v i Point R

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Sheep 700 800 Slot 800 700 Firth 300 Wolf Tors

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! ! ! ! ! ! 700 Ridge Walk *note: Pale route symbol indicates alternate route. 800 1.9

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500 900 800 Dragon’s Tor 700 0.4 800 0.9 Trapper's

700 0.4 Campsite 0.6

2.2 600 Lunch Rock Café

2.3 600 598 Gordon’s 600 Sheep Creek 1.1 Food Cache

1 400 2.2 600 S heep 700 1.4

700 1.1 Sheep Creek Base Camp 636 Cre 0.3 0.1 4.6 ek 2.4 600 r Inspiration e v i Point R

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Sheep 700 800 Slot 800 700 Firth 300 Wolf Tors

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500 1000 1As you read through the guide, if you come 1000 900 across any595 specialized or unfamiliar terms, check the Glossary provided at the back.

3 Sheep Creek Hikes Weather conditions can change quickly, with freezing temperatures Ivvavik National Park is a gift possible even in summer. Please from the Inuvialuit people to all remember that Ivvavik is as close to Canadians. The first national park pure wilderness as it gets. Beyond in Canada created through an Sheep Creek base camp and small aboriginal land claim agreement; pockets of taiga forest there is little Ivvavik is cooperatively managed protection from the elements offered by Parks Canada and the Inuvialuit. by the open tundra. Strong winds, Meaning ‘a place for giving birth’ precipitation or fog may impede or ‘a nursery’ in the Inuvialuktun travel in the park and may result in language, the park protects part flight delays. You should always pack of the calving grounds of the in extra food and fuel to Sheep Creek Porcupine caribou herd. With base camp in the event of a delayed open terrain and abundant pick-up due to weather. wildlife, Ivvavik has endless hiking opportunities in a unique arctic Bear Safety mountain environment. There are no marked trails, but this guide All three North American bear provides several recommended species are found in Ivvavik National routes that have been explored and Park: grizzly, black, and polar bear. enjoyed by visitors and staff. Grizzlies are common along the Firth River, especially during and Weather shortly after the Porcupine caribou migration in early June. Watch for The optimal hiking season is from bears and bear sign (tracks or scat) the floral bloom of mid-June into and be prepared to cut your hike the latter half of August when short if you encounter them. Most autumn colours are at their peak. visitors pack bear spray and bear Hikers in July should be prepared bangers, devices that can deter a for biting insects. Hikers planning bear at close range. Please refer to to travel later in the season should Safety in Grizzly and Black Bear be prepared for the possibility of Country, a brochure/video available cold snowy conditions and delays at Parks Canada offices in the in charter flights due to weather. Western Arctic. 4 Water Crossing Streams The Firth River and Sheep Creek Creek crossings occur on most have reliable flow, but other water trails and routes in the park. sources along these routes are highly Water levels will change variable. Carrying an appropriate throughout the summer and even supply of water is especially over the course of the day. If a important on higher elevation ridge stream crossing appears to be very hikes. While there haven’t been any difficult and risky, turn back. There reported cases of Giardiasis (also are many techniques for crossing called “beaver fever”) from drinking creeks in a group. You should ensure the water of the Firth Valley, you are well versed in creek-crossing Giardia is common in area wildlife, techniques before you leave. so boiling or filtering water before ∙∙ Try to cross streams early in drinking is strongly recommended. the day when water levels Hiking Gear are often lowest ∙∙ Always undo the waist In the remote arctic mountains strap of your pack for easy of Ivvavik, no hiker should travel removal in case you fall without insulating, wind and ∙∙ Cross at a wide, shallow waterproof layers to stay warm, point that is not above rapids dry and alive! Wearing terrain- ∙∙ Don’t cross barefoot; use appropriate, sturdy footwear is also boots or running shoes essential: hiking boots with good ∙∙ Face upstream while ankle support will reduce risk of crossing injury on the loose rock and scree, ∙∙ Use a sturdy stick or common on ridge hikes. Also keep trekking poles for support in mind that most of the hiking and for testing water depth: season is bug season. Always pack position the stick upstream as insect repellent and/or a bug net/ it will provide more support jacket. Hiking poles are appreciated ∙∙ Cross in a group for greater by many visitors, especially on steep stability by holding on to descents. Creek crossings are easier fellow hiker’s hands or and safer with sandals or light shoes. backpack straps

5 Halfway to Heaven Halfway Halfway to Heaven From here, make your way along the ridge. Along this section, you This is an alpine hike with no may notice dramatically coloured accessible water sources. Make sure rock including wildly folded purple you pack enough water and give shale. About 400 million years yourself enough time for this trip. It ago, most of this area was under is a nice option for a long day hike, a shallow coastal sea. As the tides so we recommend you pack a lunch. went in and out, shoreline mud was It’s unlikely you’ll be hiking fast on exposed to the air, and the iron in this one, since the views will stop it became oxidized. Over millions you in your tracks! of years, it was cemented into rock and folded into these spectacular Distance: 5.7 km one way purple shales, revealed after the top Elevation: 594 meters layers eroded away. Time: 3-6 hours each way (all day hike) About 1.2 km after Dragon’s Tor is Kisoun’s Rock – a shale formation The first leg of this hike (the steepest shaped like a preacher’s pulpit that ascent of all the hikes) is up to looks out onto three huge tors. Lookout Ridge, where you will enjoy Halfway to Heaven is the leftmost a great view, and can scout other tor. What do the middle and right- routes mentioned in this guide. hand tors look like to you? From Lookout Ridge, make your To Peregrine Falcons and Rough- way north towards Lunch Rock Café. legged Hawks they look like perfect A great spot to enjoy a lunch break nesting habitat! with a stunning view! Congratulations! You’ve made it Re-energized, continue on to Halfway to Heaven! Dragon’s Tor. As you make your way up the mountainside, admire For your hike back, consider taking the flowers, including the tiny Arctic the alternate route that bypasses Forget-Me-Not and the Arctic Lupin. Dragon’s Tor. This is a well-used Let your imagination run wild as Dall sheep trail that crosses steep you approach Dragon’s Tor, where shale and scree. Once you reach the the rocky formations do indeed ridge you can see Lunch Rock Café. resemble the frozen, spiky back of a From there, you’re on the home gigantic dragon. stretch back to base camp. 6 RIDG E WAL K

Ridge Walk tundra up here is important foraging habitat for Dall Sheep. This is a comfortable, middle length hike, with a moderate slope and Keep hiking north until you reach wonderful views. Watch for the a small creek and see a sharp bend many Dall sheep that forage on ahead in the Firth River. At this the short tundra grass up along point, you can hike down to the the ridge. Firth River to meet the Trapper’s Campsite trail. Or turn west and Distance: 2.6 km each way walk up the gentle slope, keeping Elevation: 555 meters to the south side of the valley. You Time: 3 hours each way will gradually make your way up to an open plateau surrounded by Start by hiking up the very steep dramatic peaks. Turn southeast slope behind Sheep Creek Station and clamber up the short, steep base camp. From Lookout Ridge, to rocks to reach Dragon’s Tor, or the west are dramatic tors that rise carry on to the northwest to get to above Sheep Creek. Golden Eagles Halfway to Heaven. Either way you often soar above the large nest built go, you’ll enjoy well-earned views in on one of these tors. all directions! Follow a short trail through the trees to come out onto the open ridge. Walk north along the ridge, keeping the steep slope that drops down to the airstrip on your right. Choosing your route along the ridge, you will occasionally drop down into small treed valleys, but soon come back up onto the ridge for good views of the Firth River. The open, grassy 7 I ON P O NT I N SPIR AT

Inspiration Point the early season! Once your feet are dry and boots are tied, go up This is a moderate hike up the ridge. through thick brush to reach the top Pack water, as there are no water of the first plateau. Tread carefully sources along the route. on the tussocks… not exactly ankle- friendly terrain! Distance: 2.4 km each way Elevation: 368 meters Above the first plateau, walk on Time: 2.5 hours each way gently sloping tundra where the saturated soil quivers like a sopping There are three routes that can take wet sponge. Water cannot penetrate you to Inspiration Point: the permafrost below. Plants here Route 1: Start behind the base are adapted to the harsh weather camp and head along the old and soil conditions –compact mining road. After 2 km the road form, fuzzy leaves and flowers, crosses Sheep Creek. Along this and fast growth during the short route there are several claim summer helps these tiny beauties stakes from the families who thrive. As you reach the ridges, sought gold here. Please respect you may notice orange dolostone all artefacts or cultural resources. rock. Millions of years ago this was After crossing Sheep Creek, hike a warm, arid seashore. Countless southwest through thick brush to layers of sediment were deposited the opening of the first plateau. here in the shallows. Over millions Watch for tundra nesting birds such of years the sediments were as Horned Lark, Smith’s Longspur, compressed into stone, the sea rose Upland Sandpiper and American and fell, the rocks were thrust up Golden Plover. and eroded down... shaping the land into what you see today. As Route 2: Crossing Sheep Creek in this dolostone is revealed on the front of base camp lets you gain surface, the iron in the rock rusts, elevation sooner than Route 1, but giving the stone its beautiful the creek can be deep and fast in orange colour. 8 WOLF TO RS

Route 3: Hike to Sheep Slot. From Wolf Tors there, climb northwest up a small bluff. Continue hiking northwest This ridge hike takes you from until you reach Inspiration Point. Inspiration Point to the dramatic (This is also a nice way to come Wolf Tors, visible in the distance. back from Inspiration Point. The Packing water is important as there terrain is less ‘tussocky’ and firmer, is no water source along the route. for easier hiking. It also offers a stunning view of the Firth River Distance: 7.2 km each way valley - often with a breeze that Elevation: 422 keeps the bugs away!) Time: 3-5 hours each way

All of these routes will take you to From Inspiration Point, follow the Inspiration Point, an aptly named ridge away from the Firth. You may ridge that provides shelter from the observe caribou grazing as they cross wind behind an angled outcrop of this windy ridge, always moving on shale. The Beringian landscape still their journey through the park. looks “prehistoric”. Imagine woolly Gradual slopes lead to a hummocky mammoths, sabre toothed tigers section and then a final uphill climb and caribou wandering these hills. to the majestic Wolf Tors. This (You may not have to imagine spectacular set of rocky pinnacles the caribou.) was named after Wolf Creek, to the north across the Firth River. You may notice scattered small bones, a result of raptors perching, feeding and nesting along the high rocky tors.

9 SH EE P S LOT

Sheep Slot syncline folds in the bedrock. It took many millions of years for This short hike takes you along the the rock to fold like this! It started Firth River plateau on wildlife trails. on an ancient sea floor, where these layers were formed from Distance: 1.5 km each way fine-grained silt deposited by sea Elevation: 16 meters currents. The sediment was buried Time: 45 minutes each way and compacted into rock that was From the confluence of Sheep Creek later folded, uplifted and ultimately and the Firth River, head south eroded to become exposed along through thick brush where signs the canyon today. of bear and moose are frequently Once you reach the clearing of seen. When hiking, hike in a group Sheep Slot, you can imagine this making loud noises and watch site as it was thousands of years for bear activity. Please refer to ago: a place where the ancestors of Staying Safe in Bear Country for the Inuvialuit, clothed in skins and additional information. With the armed with stone points, camped Firth River rumbling far below, and waited for the return of the make your way along the plateau to tuktut, or caribou, that migrate Sheep Slot. Watch for the remains past this site en route to the calving of gold miners’ camps. Prospectors grounds along the coast. began searching for gold in the area in 1898, and a minor gold rush As you observe the class IV rapids, occurred in 1947. About 200 claims please exercise caution. The water were staked along Aspen Creek is cold and the currents are very and the Firth River, mainly by local strong. Inuvialuit and Gwich’in people.

Along the Firth canyon you will see examples of anticline and

10 G O RD ON ’S FOO D C A CH E & SH EE P CR K

Gordon’s Food Cache Sheep Creek

This hike leaves the airstrip and This route leaves Sheep Creek follows the game trails along the Station and follows the “cat-road” up Firth River canyon. the valley.

Distance: 1.4 km each way Distance: 3.2 km each way Elevation: 126 meters Elevation: 16 meters Time: 30 minutes- 1 hour each way Time: 2-3 hours each way

This short hike takes you past the Stay on the north side of Sheep airstrip and heads north along the Creek and follow game trails past edge of the Firth River canyon. Make the first dry creek bed to the second your way along the ridge through creek. Here, cross Sheep Creek and thick brush, being “bear aware”. follow the road back to the furthest Hike in a group, make noise and crossing downstream. Look for watch for bear activity. Please refer mining claim stakes and mining to Staying Safe in Bear Country for equipment. Watch for a very large additional information. nest of sticks that has been used by Golden Eagles. There are signs of the Firth “gold rush” along the banks of the river, The steep bluffs are often used by including claim posts and campsites. Dall sheep, who depend on the many naturally occurring mineral-licks At Alex Gordon’s camp there are throughout the area as a source of the remains of a “stage”, where food essential minerals, not otherwise was cached to prevent animals from present in the local vegetation, to getting at it. Note the tin sleeves on promote the growth of their bones, the posts to prevent animals from hair and horns. climbing them. Below the camp is a scenic, rocky bend in the river.

11 Glossary which developed in Alaska over Anticline one thousand years ago and soon A ridge or fold of stratified rock in which after spread into what is now the the strata slope downwards from the Canadian Arctic. crest. Limestone Beringia A hard sedimentary rock, composed An area around the Bering Sea that mainly of calcium carbonate or dolomite, was not glaciated during the last glacial used as building material and in the period 30,000 to 14,000 years ago. It making of cement. formed a vast, ice-free land mass that became a refuge for plants, wildlife and Permafrost humans. A subsurface layer of soil or rock that remains below freezing point throughout Dolostone the year, occurring chiefly in polar A sedimentary rock formed chiefly of regions. dolomite. Similar to limestone, but with more magnesium and iron. Shale Soft, finely stratified sedimentary rock Giardiasis that has formed from consolidated mud Infection of the intestine with a flagellate or clay and can be split easily into fragile protozoan (Giardia) that causes diarrhea plates. and other symptoms. Commonly referred to as “beaver fever.” Scree An accumulation of loose stones or rocky Glacial ice debris lying on a slope or at the base of a During the last glacial period (110,000 hill or cliff. to 12,500 years ago), ice sheets up to 4 km thick covered much of Canada and Syncline Northern Europe. The amount of water A trough or fold of stratified rock in held in these ice sheets lowered global which the strata slope upwards from sea level about 120m, compared to the axis. present sea level. Tuktut Gwich’in Caribou in the Inuvialuktun language First Nations group living in the north- western part of North America mostly Tors above the Arctic Circle. The Gwich’in Outcrops of bedrock that form pinnacles are part of a larger family of Aboriginal on mountain tops and valley sides. people known as Athapaskans, which includes the Slavey, Dogrib, Han and Tussock Tutchone. Small grassy hillocks found in tundra and elsewhere. Small tundra lumps Inuvialuit without grass may be called hummocks. The Inuit people of the Western Both are common in permafrost Canadian Arctic. Inuvialuit trace environments, and can be challenging to their origins to the Thule culture, walk on.

12 1-867-777-8800 parkscanada.gc.ca/tuktutnogait